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            <!-- AN April 3: So far I have tagged latitude coordinates up to around line 1600. I also tagged any longitude coordinates I noticed while doing so. I skipped a few latitudes because I was unsure f I should tag them if they were written as, for example, '21st' instead of '21'. I also left out the direction for coordinates that were written like "21 deg. of south" because I was unsure if the word 'of' would mess with the coordinates. I have left comment tags at the end of each one I found so they should be easier to find later to correct. -->
            <!--AN April 13: Finsihed tagging & replacing the characters.-->
            <title>A Voyage Round the World in His Majesty's Sloop, Resolution, commanded by Capt.
               James Cook, during the Years 1772, 3, 4, 5.</title>
            <author role="primary">Forster, George, FRS</author>

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               <persName>Elisa Beshero-Bondar</persName>
               <persName>Gregory Bondar</persName>
               <persName>Scott Morgan</persName>
               <persName>Megan Hughes</persName>
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               <resp>with assistance in tagging persons, places, and geographic coordinates
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               <persName>Ashley Necciai</persName>
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               <resp>and with assistance in the Computational Methods in Humanities course at the
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               <persName>Mary Zuzack</persName>
               <persName>Eric Gratta</persName>
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         <publicationStmt>
            <p>London: printed for B. White, Fleet-Street; J. Robson, Bond-Street; P. Elmsly,
               Strand; and G. Robinson, Pater-noster-Row. 1777</p>
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            <p>Electronic transcription originally by Ria van de Zandt, provided courtesy of
               Nicholas Thomas. <bibl default="false">
                  <title>A voyage the world</title>
                  <author>George Forster</author>
                  <editor>Nicholas Thomas</editor>
                  <editor> Oliver Berghof</editor>
                  <editor role="assistant">Jennifer Newell</editor>
                  <publisher>University of Hawai'i Press</publisher>
                  <date>2000</date>
               </bibl>
            </p>

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         <div type="preface">
            <head>PREFACE.</head>
            <p n="3">HISTORY does not offer an example of such disinterested efforts, towards the
               enlargement of human knowledge, as have been made by the British nation, since the
               accession of his present Majesty to the Throne. <placeName>America</placeName>, with
               all its riches, might long have remained undiscovered, if the unequelled
               perserverance and the glorious enthusiasm of <persName>Columbus</persName> had not
               providentially surmounted every difficulty, and, in spite of ignorance and envy,
               forced their way to <persName>Ferdinand</persName> and <persName>Isabella</persName>.
               That immortal navigator was protected at last, only because he opened a new and
               evident source of gain. But friendship between <persName>Plutus</persName> and the
               Muses was too singular to be sincere; it only lasted whilst they, with no better
               success than the Danaids, poured heaps of gold into his treasury.</p>

            <p n="4">The triumph of science was reserved to later periods of time. Three voyages of
               discovery, from the most liberal motives, had already been performed, when a fourth
               was undertaken by order of an enlightened monarch, upon a more enlarged and majestic
               plan than ever was put in execution before. The greatest navigator of his time, two
               able astronomers, a man of science to study nature in all her recesses, and a painter
               to copy some of her most curious productions, were selected at the expence of the
               nation. After completing their voyage, they have prepared to give an account of their
               respective discoveries, which cannot fail of crowning, their employers at least, with
               immortal honour.</p>

            <p n="5">The British legislature did not send out and liberally support my father as a
               naturalist, who was merely to bring home a collection of butterflies and dried
               plants. That superior wisdom which guides the counsels of this nation, induced many
               persons of considerable distinction to act on this occasion with unexampled
               greatness. So far from prescribing rules for his conduct, they conceived that the man
               whom they had chosen, prompted by his natural love of science, would endeavour to
               derive the greatest possible advantages to learning from his voyage. He was only
               therefore directed to exercise all his talents, and to extend his observations to
               every remarkable object. From him they expected a philosophical history of the
               voyage, free from prejudice and vulgar error, where human nature should be
               represented without any adherence to fallacious systems, and upon the principles of
               general philanthropy; in short, an account written upon a plan which the learned
               world had not hitherto seen executed.</p>

            <p n="6">My father performed the voyage, and collected his observations agreeably to the
               ideas which had thus been entertained of him. Fully resolved to complete the purpose
               of his mission, and to communicate his discoveries to the public, and not allowing
               himself any time to rest from the fatigues which he had undergone, he inscribed and
               presented the first specimen of his labours to his majesty within four months after
               his return<ref target="#edn1">
                  <note xml:id="edn1" anchored="true">
                     <hi rend="italics">Characteres Generum Plantarum quas in Insulis maris
                        australis colleg. &amp;c</hi>. <persName>Joannes Reinoldus
                        Forster</persName>, LL. D. &amp; <persName>Georgius Forster</persName>. 4to.
                     Lond. 1776. </note>
               </ref>. The history of the voyage, the principal performance which was demanded at
               his hands, next engrossed his attention. It was at first proposed, that from his own
               and <persName>captain Cook's</persName> journals a single narrative should be
               composed, in which the important observations of each should be inserted, and
               referred to their proper authors by different marks. My father received a part of
                  <persName>captain Cook's</persName> journal, and drew up several sheets as a
               specimen; however, as it was soon after thought more expedient to separate the two
               journals, this plan was not prosecuted. The Right Hon. the Lords Commissioners of the
               Admiralty, being desirous of ornamenting the account of the late discoveries with a
               number of plates, engraved after the drawing of the artist who went on the voyage,
               generously granted the whole expence of the engraving<ref target="#edn2">
                  <note xml:id="edn2" anchored="true"> This expence amounts to upwards of 2000<hi rend="italics"> l</hi>. all the plates being executed by the ablest
                     artists. </note>
               </ref> in equal shares to <persName>captain Cook</persName> and my father. An
               agreement was drawn up on the 13th of April, 1776, between <persName>captain
                  Cook</persName> and my father, in the presence, and with the signature of the earl
               of Sandwich, specifying the particular parts of the account which were to be prepared
               for the press by each of the parties separately, and confirming to them both jointly
               the generous gift of the plates from the Board of Admiralty. In consequence of this,
               my father presented a second specimen of his narrative for the perusal of the earl of
               Sandwich, and was much surprised at first that this second essay was entirely
               disapproved; but after some time he was convinced, that as the word " narrative" was
               omitted in the agreement, he had no right to compose a connected account of the
               voyage. He was told that if he meant to preserve his claim to half the profit arising
               from the plates which the Board of Admiralty provided, he must conform to the letter
               of the agreement; and though he had always considered himself as sent out chiefly
               with a view to write the history of the voyage, he acquiesced for the benefit of his
               family, and strictly confined himself to the publication of his unconnected
               philosophical observations made in the course of the voyage.</p>

            <p n="7">I must confess, it hurt me much, to see the chief intent of my father's mission
               defeated, and the public disappointed in their expectations of a philosophical
               recital of facts. However, as I had been appointed his assistant in the course of
               this expedition, I thought it incumbent upon me, at least to attempt to write such a
               narrative. Every consideration prompted me to undertake the task, which it was no
               longer in his power to perform. It was a duty we owed to the public; I had collected
               sufficient materials during the voyage, and I had as much good will to begin with, as
               any traveller that ever wrote, or any compiler that was ever bribed to mutilate a
               narrative. I was bound by no agreement whatsoever, and that to which my father had
               signed, did not make him answerable for my actions, nor in the most distant manner
               preclude his giving me assistance. Therefore in every important circumstance, I had
               leave to consult his journals, and have been enabled to draw up my narrative with the
               most scrupulous attention to historical truth.</p>

            <p n="8">Two anonymous publications on the subject of our voyage have already appeared;
               but the present age is too enlightened to credit marvellous histories, which would
               have disgusted even the romantic disposition of our ancestors. The incidents of our
               voyage are various, and deeply interesting, without the assistance of fiction. Our
               course has been by turns fertile, and barren of events; but as the industry of the
               labourer reaps some advantage from the most ungrateful soil, so the most dreary
               solitudes have yielded instruction to the inquisitive mind.</p>

            <p n="9">Another narrative of this circumnavigation, is said to have been written by
               captain <persName>James Cook</persName> of His Majesty's Royal Navy, under whose
               command it was performed. That account will be ornamented with a great variety of
               plates, representing views of the countries which we visited, portraits of the
               natives, figures of their boats, arms, and utensils, together with a number of
               particular charts of the new discoveries; and all these plates, engraved at the
               expence of the Board of Admiralty, are the joint property of <persName>captain
                  Cook</persName> and my father.</p>

            <p n="10">At first sight it may seem superfluous to offer two relations of this voyage
               to the world; but when we consider them as narratives of interesting facts, it must
               be allowed that the latter will be placed in a stronger light, by being related by
               different persons. Our occupations when in harbour were widely different; whilst
                  <persName>captain Cook</persName> was employed in victualling or refitting the
               ship, I went in quest of the manifold objects which Nature had scattered throughout
               the land. Nothing is therefore more obvious, than that each of us may have caught
               many distinct incidents, and that our observations will frequently be foreign to each
               other. But above all, it is to be observed, that the same objects may have been seen
               in different points of view, and that the same fact may often have given rise to
               different ideas. Many circumstances familiar to the navigator, who has been bred on
               the rough element, strike the landman with novelty, and furnish entertainment to his
               readers. The seaman views many objects on shore with retrospect to maritime affairs,
               whilst the other attends to their œconomical uses. In short, the different branches
               of science which we have studied, our turns of mind, our heads and hearts have made a
               difference in our sensations, reflections, and expressions. This disparity may have
               been rendered still more evident, as I have slightly passed over all regulations
               relative to the interior œconomy of the ship and the crew: I have studiously avoided
               nautical details both at sea and in harbour, nor ventured to determine, how often we
               reefed, or split a sail in a storm, how many times we tacked to weather a point, and
               how often our refractory bark disobeyed her Palinurus, and missed stays. The bearings
               and distances of projecting capes, of peaks, hills, and hummocks, of bays, harbours,
               ports, and coves, at different hours of the day, have likewise been in general
               omitted. These instructive particulars thrive in the proper field of the navigator.
               The history of <persName>captain Cook's</persName> first Voyage Round the World<ref target="#edn3">
                  <note xml:id="edn3" anchored="true"> In the Endeavour, from 1768, to 1771, drawn
                     up by <persName>Dr. John Hawkesworth</persName>. </note>
               </ref>, was eagerly read by all European nations, but incurred universal censure, I
               had almost said contempt. It was the fate of the History, to be compiled by a person
               who had not been on the voyage; and to the frivolous observations, the uninteresting
               digressions, and sophistical principle of this writer, the ill-success of the work
               has been attributed; though few are able to determine, with what degree of justice
               the blame is thrown upon the compiler. The active life of <persName>captain
                  Cook</persName>, and his indefatigable pursuits after discoveries, have made it
               impossible for him to superintend the printing of his own Journals; and the public, I
               am much afraid, must again converse with him by means of an interpreter. His present
               performance will, in all probability, have another circumstance in common with the
               former, where many important observations, thought obnoxious, have been suppressed,
               as is customary in France. The same authority which blew off <persName>M. de
                  Bougainville</persName> from the <placeName>island of Juan Fernandez</placeName>,
               could hush to silence the British guns, whilst the Endeavour cannonaded the
               Portuguese fort at Madeira<ref target="#edn4">
                  <note xml:id="edn4" anchored="true"> The two circumstances here alluded to, are
                     well known facts, though suppressed in the published narratives. <persName>M.
                        de Bougainville</persName> spent some time at <persName>Juan
                        Fernandez</persName>, and completely refreshed his crew there, though he
                     wishes to have it understood, that contrary winds prevented his touching at
                     that island. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> in the Endeavour, battered the
                        <placeName>Loo-fort</placeName> at <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, in
                     conjunction with an English frigate, thus resenting an affront which had been
                     offered to the British flag. </note>
               </ref>. Without entering farther into this subject, I shall only observe, that the
               above remark will give an adequate idea of the authenticity of a performance, which
               is submitted to censure and mutilation, before it is offered to the public.</p>

            <p n="11">The philosophers of the present age, to obviate the seeming contradictions in
               the accounts of different travellers, have been at the trouble to select certain
               authors in whom they have placed confidence, and rejected as fabulous the assertions
               of all the rest. Without being competent judges of the subject, they have assumed a
               few circumstances as facts; and wresting even those to suit their own systems, have
               built a superstructure which pleases at a distance, but upon nearer examination
               partakes of the illusive nature of a dream. The learned, at last grown tired of being
               deceived by the powers of rhetoric, and by sophistical arguments, raised a general
               cry after a simple collections of facts. They had their wish; facts were collected in
               all parts of the world, and yet knowledge was not increased. They received a confused
               heap of disjointed limbs, which no art could reunite into a whole; and the rage of
               hunting after facts soon rendered them incapable of forming and resolving a single
               proposition; like those minute enquirers, whose life is wholly spent in the
               anatomical dissection of flies, from whence they never draw a single conclusion for
               the use of mankind, or even of brutes. Besides this, two travellers seldom saw the
               same object in the same manner, and each reported the fact differently, according to
               his sensations, and his peculiar mode of thinking. It was therefore necessary to be
               acquainted with the observer, before any use could be made of his observations. The
               traveller was no longer to trust to chance for a variety of occurrences, but to make
               use of his first discovery, as the thread of Ariadne, by the help of which he might
               guide his steps through the labyrinth of human knowledge. It was therefore requisite
               that he should have penetration sufficient to combine different facts, and to form
               general views from thence, which might in some measure guide him to new discoveries,
               and point out the proper objects of farther investigation. This was the idea with
               which I embarked on the late voyage round the world, and agreeable to which I have
               collected materials for the present publication, as far as the time, my situation and
               abilities, would permit. I have always endeavoured in this narrative to connect the
               ideas arising from different occurrences, in order, if possible, to throw more light
               upon the nature of the human mind, and to lift the soul into that exalted station,
               from whence the extensive view must " justify the ways of God to man." Whether I have
               succeeded or failed in the attempt, remains to be decided; but the rectitude of the
               intention cannot, I trust, be misconstrued. I have sometimes obeyed the powerful
               dictates of my heart, and given voice to my feeling; for, as I do not pretend to be
               free from the weaknesses common to my fellow creatures, it was necessary for every
               reader to know the colour of the glass through which I looked. Of this at least I am
               certain, that a gloomy livid tinge hath never clouded my sight. Accustomed to look on
               all the various tribes of men, as entitled to an equal share of my good will, and
               conscious, at the same time, of the rights which I possess in common with every
               individual among them, I have endeavoured to make my remarks with a retrospect to our
               general improvement and welfare; and neither attachment nor aversion to particular
               nations have influence my praise or censure.</p>

            <p n="12">The degree of pleasure which may result from the perusal of a work, depends
               not only upon the variety of the subject, but likewise upon the purity and graces of
               style. We must resign all pretensions to taste and sentiment, if we did not prefer a
               well-told tale to a lame and tedious narration. Of late, however, the just esteem in
               which an elegant diction is held, has been so far abused, that authors, relying on
               the fluency of their language, have paid no attention to the matter which they
               proposed, but deceived the public with a dry and uninstructive performance. Such
               writers may possibly acquire the approbation of some individuals,</p>

            <p n="13">
               <q>" Who haunt Parnassus but to please their ears;" </q>
            </p>

            <p n="14">But I am convinced the generality of readers are always just enough to
               overlook, in some measure, the defects of style in favour of the novelty or
               usefulness of the subject. Without attempting to be curiously elegant, I have aimed
               at perspicuity; and having paid the strictest attention to this particular, I hope to
               meet with indulgence, if some errors of less moment have escaped my notice. It was
               owing to the repeated corrections of some valuable friends, to which I submitted my
               manuscript, that I sent it late to the press; but from the unexampled activity of the
               printer, I am enabled to lay my work before the public even sooner than I expected.
               The Chart, on which our line of circumnavigation is delineated, has been engraved by
               the ablest artist in that branch<ref target="#edn5">
                  <note xml:id="edn5" anchored="true">
                     <persName>Mr. W. Whitchurch</persName>, Pleasant-row, Islington. </note>
               </ref>, and I constructed it with the most minute attention from the best
               authorities, which are mentioned in its margin. After specifying the above
               particulars, of which I thought it my duty to apprize the reader, it only remains to
               discharge a promise made in the course of the work, respecting an account of the
               education and equipment of <persName>O-Maï</persName> in this country<ref target="#edn6">
                  <note xml:id="edn6" anchored="true"> The native of the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName> brought over by <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> in
                     the Adventure, and vulgarly called <persName>Omiah</persName>. </note>
               </ref>. (See vol. I. p. 389.) In the narrow limits of a Peface I can only comprehend
               in a few lines the substance of what might furnish an entertaining volume.
                  <persName>O-Maï</persName> has been considered either as remarkably stupid, or
               very intelligent, according to the different allowances which were made by those who
               judged of his abilities. His language, which is destitute of every harsh consonant,
               and where every word ends in a vowel, had so little exercised his organs of speech,
               that they were wholly unfit to pronounce the more complicated English sounds; and
               this physical, or rather habitual defect, has too often been misconstrued. Upon his
               arrival in <placeName>England</placeName>, he was immediately introduced into genteel
               company, led to the most splendid entertainments of this great and luxurious
               metropolis, and presented at court amidst a brilliant circle of the first nobility.
               He naturally imitated that easy and elegant politeness which is so prevalent in all
               those places, and which is one of the ornaments of civilized society; he adopted the
               manners, the occupations, and amusements of his companions, and gave many proofs of a
               quick perception and lively fancy. Among the instances of his intelligence, I need
               only mention his knowledge of the game of chess, in which he had made an amazing
               proficiency. The multiplicity of objects which crouded upon him, prevented his paying
               due attention to those particulars which would have been beneficial to himself and to
               his countrymen at his return. He was not able to form a general comprehensive view of
               our whole civilized system, and to abstract from thence what appeared most strikingly
               useful and applicable to the improvement of his country. His senses were charmed by
               beauty, symmetry, harmony, and magnificence; they called aloud for gratification, and
               he was accustomed to obey their voice. The continued round of enjoyments left him no
               time to think of his future life; and being destitute of the genius of
                  <persName>Tupaïa</persName>, whose superior abilities would have enabled him to
               form a plan for his own conduct, his understanding remained unimproved. It can hardly
               be supposed that he never formed a wish to obtain some knowledge of our agriculture,
               arts, and manufactures; but no friendly Mentor ever attempted to cherish and to
               gratify this wish, much less to improve his moral character, to teach him our exalted
               ideas of virtue, and the sublime principles of revealed religion. After having spent
               near two years in <placeName>England</placeName>, and happily undergone inocculation
               for the small pox<ref target="#edn7">
                  <note xml:id="edn7" anchored="true"> This disease proved fatal to
                        <persName>Aotourou</persName>, the native of
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, whom <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> brought to <placeName>France</placeName>, and who
                     received nearly the same education as <persName>O-Maï</persName>. </note>
               </ref>, he embarked with <persName>captain Cook</persName> in the Resolution, which
               sailed from <placeName>Plymouth</placeName> in July 1776. The various scenes of
               debauchery, which are almost unavoidable in the civilized world, had not corrupted
               the natural good qualities of his heart. At parting from his friends his tears flowed
               plentifully, and his silence and outward behaviour proved him deeply affected. He
               carried with him an infinite variety of dresses, ornaments, and other trifles, which
               are daily invented in order to supply our artificial wants. His judgement was in its
               infant state, and therefore, like a child, he coveted almost every thing he saw, and
               particularly that which had amused him by some unexpected effect. To gratify his
               childish inclinations, as it should seem, rather than from any other motive, he was
               indulged with a portable organ, an electrical machine, a coat of mail, and suit of
               armour. Perhaps my readers expect to be told of his taking on board some articles of
               real use to his country; I expected it likewise, but was disappointed. However,
               though his country will not receive a citizen from us much improved, or fraught with
               valuable acquisitions, which might have made him the benefactor, and perhaps the
               lawgiver of his people, still I am happy to reflect, that the ships which are once
               more sent out upon discovery, are destined to carry the harmless natives of
                  <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> a present of new domestic animals. The
               introduction of black cattle and sheep on that fertile island, will doubtless
               increase the happiness of its inhabitants; and this gift may hereafter be conducive,
               by many intermediate causes, to the improvement of their intellectual faculties. And
               here I cannot but observe, that considering the small expence at which voyages of
               discovery are carried on<ref target="#edn8">
                  <note xml:id="edn8" anchored="true"> The whole expence of the voyage in which I
                     embarked did not exceed the sum of 25000 <hi rend="italics">l</hi>.
                     including all extraordinary disbursements. </note>
               </ref>, the nation which favours these enterprizes is amply repaid by the benefit
               derived to our fellow-creatures. I cannot help thinking that our late voyage would
               reflect immortal honour on our employers, if it had no other merit than stocking
                  <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> with goats, the <placeName>Friendly
                  Isles</placeName> and <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName> with dogs, and
                  <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> and <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> with
               hogs. It is therefore sincerely to be wished, that voyages of discovery, upon a
               disinterested plan, may still be prosecuted with vigour, as much remains to be done,
               even in the South Sea; unless it should be in the power of illiberal men to defeat
               the great and generous views of a monarch, who is justly called the patron of
               science. A single remark, which may be of extensive use to posterity; a single
               circumstance, which may make happy our fellow-creatures in those remote parts of the
               world, repays the toils of the navigation, and bestows that great reward, the
               consciousness of good and noble actions.</p>

            <p n="15">London,</p>
            <p n="16">
               <date>March 1, 1777</date>.</p>
            <p n="17">G. FORSTER.</p>
         </div>
         <div type="work">
            <head>A VOYAGE round the WORLD.</head>
            <div n="1" type="book">
               <head>BOOK I.</head>
               <div n="1" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. I.<lb/>
                     Departure - Passage from <placeName>Plymouth</placeName> to
                           <placeName>Madeira</placeName> - Description of that Island.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="18">
                     <q>Ubi animus ex multis miseriis atque perioulis requievit, - statui res gestas
                        - perscribere; tamen (<hi rend="italics">hoc</hi>) imprimis arduum
                        videtur, - quia plerique, quæ delicta reprehenderis, malivolentia et invidia
                        putant; ubi de magna virtute et gloria bonorum memores, quæ sibi quisque
                        facilia factu putat, aequo animo accipit; supra ea, veluti ficta, pro falsis
                        ducit.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="19">
                     <q>Sallust.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="20">
                     <date>[1772. June.][Thursday 11.]</date>A VOYAGE to explore the high southern
                     latitudes of our globe was resolved upon, soon after the return of the
                     Endeavour in 1771. Two stout vessels, the <hi rend="italics">Resolution</hi>
                     and the <hi rend="italics">Adventure</hi>, were fitted as King's sloops for
                     that purpose, and the command of them given to <persName>Capt. James
                        Cook</persName> and <persName>Capt. Tobias Furneaux</persName>. On the 11th
                     of June, 1772, my father and myself were appointed to embark in this
                     expedition, in order to collect, describe, and draw the objects of natural
                     history which we might expect to meet with during our course. We prepared with
                     the utmost alacrity for this arduous undertaking, and in the <date>[Saturday
                        20.]</date>space of nine days sent all our baggage on board the Resolution,
                     then at Sheerness, but which failed from thence <date>[Monday 22.]</date>for
                        <persName>Plymouth</persName> on the 22d of June.</p>

                  <p n="21">We left <placeName>London</placeName> on the 26th, and in two Days
                     reached <placeName>Plymouth</placeName>, where the Resolution was not yet
                     arrived. The 1st of July, we went on board the <hi rend="italics">Augusta
                        Yacht</hi>, and waited on the Earl of Sandwich, then First Lord
                     Commissioner for executing the office of High Admiral. His Lordship expecting
                     the Resolution to come into <placeName>Plymouth Sound</placeName> that day,
                     desired us to be on board of her, between the hours of five and six in the
                     evening. However, to our great disappointment, she did not appear, and his
                     Lordship left <placeName>Plymouth</placeName> the next morning.</p>

                  <p n="22">
                     <date>[1772. July.][Friday 3.]</date>The 3d of July early, we saw the
                     Resolution lying in the Sound, where she had arrived the night before.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> purposed to stay here eight or ten days,
                     and gave orders, that some necessary shelves should be fixed up in our cabins
                     previous to our reception on board. The desire of letting pass no opportunity
                     for the improvement of science, and for our own instruction, prompted us to
                     pass these leisure hours in visiting the tin mines in
                        <placeName>Cornwall</placeName>. Having satisfied our curiosity, and being
                     both highly <date>[Wednesday 8.]</date>entertained and much instructed by the
                     sight of the rich extensive works at <placeName>Poldyce</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Kenwyn</placeName>, we returned to
                        <placeName>Plymouth</placeName> on the 8th of July.</p>

                  <p n="23">
                     <date>[Saturday 11.]</date>On Saturday the 11th, we went on board the
                     Resolution sloop, which was now to sail with the first fair wind. <date>[Sunday
                        12.]</date>The next day it blew a fresh gale; and my father, walking on the
                     quarter-deck, observed our vessel to alter her position considerably in regard
                     to the Adventure (which was to accompany us on our voyage) and to a mast-ship,
                     both at anchor in the Sound; at the same time taking notice that she approached
                     the rocks under the castle. He immediately communicated his apprehensions to
                        <persName>Mr. Gilbert</persName>, the master, who happened to be upon deck
                     with him. The master found, that the vessel having been moored to one of the
                     transport buoys in the Sound, the buoy, not intended to support such a violent
                     strain, had broke from its ground tackle, and was adrift together with the
                     sloop. In an instant all hands were on deck, the sails spread, and the cables
                     cleared. We shot past the Adventure and mast-ship, and came to an anchor, after
                     escaping the most imminent danger of being dashed against the rocks under the
                     fort. Our seamen looked upon this fortunate event, as an omen favourable to the
                     success of the voyage, while we could not avoid reflecting on the tutelar
                     guidance of divine Providence, which had thus manifested itself in a critical
                     moment, that might easily have put an effectual stop to our projects<ref target="#edn9">
                        <note xml:id="edn9" anchored="true"> That it is not uncommon for ships,
                           under the same circumstance as the Resolution sloop, to take considerable
                           damage, appears from what happened to the Aldborough, May 19, 1776, which
                           broke from the buoys in the same manner, but drove ashore on
                              <placeName>Drake's island</placeName>, and was bulged to pieces.
                        </note>
                     </ref>. We shall, in the course of this history, find frequent instances of
                     impending destruction, where all human help would have been ineffectual, if our
                     better fortune had not prevailed under the superior direction of him, without
                     whose knowledge not a single hair falls from our heads. We are ever ready to
                     give due applause and do full justice to the great skill and good conduct of
                     our able circumnavigators, but we cannot avoid attributing every thing to its
                     proper source, and that especially to a higher power, which human art, though
                     aided by effrontery and irreligion, dares not vindicate to itself.</p>

                  <p n="24">
                     <date>[Monday 13.]</date>Early on Monday the 13th, we set sail from
                        <placeName>Plymouth Sound</placeName>, in company with the Adventure. I
                     turned a parting look on the fertile hills of <placeName>England</placeName>,
                     and gave way to the natural emotions of affection which that prospect awakened;
                     till the beauty of the morning, and the novelty of gliding through the smooth
                     water attracted my attention, and dispersed the gloominess of former ideas. We
                     soon passed by <hi rend="italics">Eddistone</hi> lighthouse, a lofty and
                     well-contrived tower, which is of the greatest advantage to navigation and
                     commerce. It was impossible to look at it, without shuddering with
                     apprehensions for the lonely keepers, who are often obliged to pass three
                     months there, deprived of all communication with the main-land. The fate of
                        <hi rend="italics">Winstanley</hi>, who was really crushed by the
                     downfall of a former structure, which he himself had built on this rock, and
                     the vibrations of the present tower, when winds and waves assail it, must give
                     them strong fears of a dreadful and sudden end.</p>

                  <p n="25">In proportion as we stood off shore, the wind encreased, the billows
                     rose higher, and the vessel rolled violently from side to side. Those who were
                     not used to the sea, nay some of the oldest mariners, were affected by the
                     sea-sickness, in various degrees of violence. It was of different duration with
                     different persons, and after it had continued three days amongst us, we found
                     the greatest relief from red port wine mulled, with spices and sugar.</p>

                  <p n="26">
                     <date>[Monday 20.]</date>On the 20th, we fell in with <placeName>Cape <hi rend="italics">Ortegal</hi>
                     </placeName>, on the coast of <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Gallicia</hi>
                     </placeName> in <placeName>Spain</placeName>; the natives call it <hi rend="italics">Ortiguera</hi>, and it was probably the <hi rend="italics">Promontorium Trileucum</hi> of the ancients. The country hereabouts is
                     hilly; where the naked rock appears it is white, and the tops of the mountains
                     are covered with wood. I also observed some corn-fields almost ripe, and some
                     spots which seemed to be covered with heath. The eagerness with which every
                     body gazed at this land, powerfully persuaded me, that mankind were not meant
                     to be amphibious animals, and that of course our present situation was an
                     unnatural one; an idea that seems to have occurred to Horace, when he says,</p>

                  <p n="27">
                     <q>Necquicquam Deus abscidit</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="28">
                     <q>Prudens oceano dissociabili</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="29">
                     <q>Terras; si tamen impiæ</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="30">
                     <q>Non tangenda rates transiliunt vada. Hor.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="31">
                     <q> ;</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="32">
                     <q>In vain did Nature's wise command</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="33">
                     <q>Divide the waters from the land,</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="34">
                     <q>If daring ships and men profane,</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="35">
                     <q>Invade th' inviolable main. <persName>Dryden</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="36">
                     <date>[Wednesday 22.]</date>On the 22d, we saw the lighthouse near <hi rend="italics">
                        <placeName>Corunna</placeName>
                     </hi>, or, as our sailors absurdly call it, the <hi rend="italics">Groyn</hi>. It was perfectly calm, the water smooth as a mirror, and the
                     hilly prospect very agreeably varied by corn-fields, inclosures, small hamlets,
                     and gentlemen's seats, every thing conspiring to banish the remains of the
                     sea-sickness entirely from amongst us, and to bring back that chearfulness
                     which could not well keep company with empty stomachs and a tempestuous sea. In
                     the evening we were near a small tartan, which we took to be a fishing vessel
                     from the Spanish coast; and in that persuasion, a boat was hoisted out and sent
                     towards her, in order, if possible, to purchase some fresh fish. In going
                     thither we observed the whole surface of the sea every where covered with
                     myriads of little crabs, not above an inch in diameter, which we found were of
                     the species called <hi rend="italics">cancer depurator</hi> by
                        <persName>Linæus</persName>. The little vessel proved to be a French tartan
                     from <placeName>Marseilles</placeName>, of about 100 tons burden, freighted
                     with flour for <hi rend="italics">Ferrol </hi>and <hi rend="italics">Corunna</hi>. The people in her begged for a small supply of fresh water,
                     having been driven far from their course by contrary winds during two months,
                     by which means this necessary article had been exhausted above a fortnight ago,
                     and they were reduced to live upon bread and a little wine. Whilst they
                     continued in this distressful situation, they had met with several ships at
                     sea, and especially with several Spanish men of war, though none had been
                     humane enough to alleviate their sufferings. When the officer who commanded our
                     boat heard this account, he sent their empty barrels on board our vessel to be
                     filled with fresh water, and their eyes sparkled with the liveliest expression
                     of joy when they received it. They thanked Heaven and us, and rejoiced that
                     they should now be able to light their fire again, and be comforted with some
                     boiled provisions, after their long abstinence. So true is it, that a man with
                     a feeling humane heart, may often, at a very cheap rate, indulge the
                     inclination to assist his fellow-creatures.</p>

                  <p n="37">
                     <date>[Thursday 23.]</date>The next afternoon, three Spanish men of war passed
                     us standing in for <hi rend="italics">Ferrol</hi>. One of them seemed to be
                     a 74 gun ship, and the two others carried about 60 guns each. The sternmost
                     first hoisted English colours, but when we shewed ours, she hauled them down,
                     fired a gun to leeward, and hoisted the Spanish ensign. Soon after she fired a
                     shot at the Adventure; but as we kept standing on, the Spaniard put about, and
                     fired another shot just a-head of her. In consequence of this, our vessel
                     brought to, and the Adventure now <hi rend="italics">seemed only to follow our
                        example</hi>. The Spaniard then hailed the Adventure in English, and asked
                     " what <hi rend="italics">frigate</hi> that was a-head," (meaning our
                     sloop); and having been satisfied in that particular, he would not answer a
                     question of the same nature, which was put to him, but always replied, " <hi rend="italics">I wish you a good voyage</hi>." We continued our course,
                     after a scene so humiliating to the masters of the sea, and passed
                        <placeName>Cape <hi rend="italics">Finisterre</hi>
                     </placeName> during night.</p>

                  <p n="38">Several porpesses passed us on the 25th, all swimming against the wind,
                     which had been north-easterly ever since we had left <placeName>Cape
                        Finisterre</placeName>. At night the sea appeared luminous, particularly the
                     tops of the waves and part of the ship's wake, which were illuminated by a mass
                     of pure light: but, independent of that, there appeared numerous little sparks
                     infinitely brighter than any other part of this phӕnomenon.</p>

                  <p n="39">
                     <date>[Tuesday 28.]</date>On the 28th, at six of the clock in the morning, we
                     discovered <placeName>Porto-Santo</placeName>, which is about five or six
                     leagues long, barren and thinly inhabited. It has only one <hi rend="italics">Villa </hi>or town, of the same name, situated on the eastern side, in a
                     valley which is entirely cultivated, and appeared to have a fine verdure from
                     the numerous vineyards it contains. This little island is under the orders of
                     the governor of <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, and the number of its
                     inhabitants amounts to about seven hundred.</p>

                  <p n="40">Soon after we made <placeName>Madeira</placeName> and the
                        <placeName>Ilhas Desertas</placeName>, corruptly called the <hi rend="italics">Deserters</hi> by our seamen. The town of <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Santa Cruz</hi>
                     </placeName> in <placeName>Madeira</placeName> was abreast of us at six in the
                     afternoon. The mountains are here intersected by numerous deep glens and
                     vallies. On the sloping ground we observed several country-houses pleasantly
                     situated amidst surrounding vineyards and lofty cypresses, which give the
                     country altogether a romantic appearance. We were towed to the road of <hi rend="italics">Funchal</hi> in a perfect calm, and came to an anchor in the
                     dark.</p>

                  <p n="41">
                     <date>[Wednesday 29.]</date>Early on the 29th, we were agreeably surprised with
                     the picturesque appearance of the city of <placeName>Funchal</placeName>, which
                     is built round the bay, on the gentle ascent of the first hills, in form of an
                     amphitheatre. All its public and private buildings are by this means set off to
                     advantage. They are in general entirely white, many of them two stories high,
                     and covered with low roofs, from whence they derive that elegant eastern stile,
                     and that simplicity, of which our narrow buildings with steep roofs, and
                     numerous stacks of chimnies are utterly destitute. On the sea side are several
                     batteries and platforms with cannon. An old castle, which commands the road, is
                     situated on the top of a steep black rock, surrounded by the sea at high-water,
                     and called by the English <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Loo-rock</hi>
                     </placeName>. On a neighbouring eminence above the town there is another,
                     called <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">San Joao do Pico</hi>
                     </placeName>, or <placeName>St. John's castle</placeName>. The hills beyond the
                     town serve to complete the beauty of the landscape, being covered with
                     vineyards, inclosures, plantations, and groves, interspersed with
                     country-houses and several churches. The whole seemed to raise the idea of a
                     fairy-garden, and enabled us to form some conception of the hanging gardens of
                        <persName>queen <hi rend="italics">Semiramis</hi>
                     </persName>.</p>

                  <p n="42">About <time>seven o'clock</time> a boat came off to us called the <hi rend="italics">Pratique-boat</hi>, having on board a <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Capitan do Sal</hi>
                     </persName>, who is once of the two <hi rend="italics">Guarda-Mores</hi> of
                     the board of health, appointed to regulate the quarantine of such ships as come
                     from the coast of <placeName>Barbary</placeName>, the
                        <placeName>Arches</placeName>, and other parts suspected of infectious
                     distempers. This gentleman enquired into the state of health of our ship's
                     company, and the place we came from, and returned on shore with satisfactory
                     information on this subject.</p>

                  <p n="43">After breakfast we landed, and went with the captains to the house of
                        <persName>Mr. Loughnan</persName>, a British merchant, who supplied the
                     king's ships, as contractor, with all the necessaries. The consul,
                        <persName>Mr. Murray</persName>, lately appointed, was not yet arrived, but
                        <persName>Mr. Loughnan</persName> received us with such hospitality and
                     elegance, as do honour to himself and to the nation in general.</p>

                  <p n="44">The city is far from answering the expectations which may be formed from
                     its appearance towards the road. Its streets are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty;
                     the houses are built of freestone, or of brick, but they are dark, and only a
                     few of the best, belonging to English merchants or principal inhabitants, are
                     provided with glass-windows; all the others have a kind of lattice work in
                     their stead, which hangs on hinges and may be lifted up occasionally. The
                     ground floors are mostly appropriated for the use of servants, for shops, and
                     store-houses.</p>

                  <p n="45">The churches and monasteries are very plain buildings, without any
                     display of the architectonic art: their inside exhibits a striking want of
                     taste; the little light which is admitted into them, serving only to display
                     heaps of tinsel ornaments, arranged in a manner which is truely Gothic. The
                     convent of Franciscan friars is clean and spacious, but their gardens seemed
                     not to be kept in the best order. The nuns of <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Santa Clara</hi>
                     </placeName> politely received us at their grate, but afterwards deputed some
                     old women, to offer the artificial flowers of their manufacture for sale.</p>

                  <p n="46">We walked with <persName>Mr. Loughnan</persName> to his country-seat,
                     which is situated on the hills, about a mile from the city. We there met an
                     agreeable company of the principal British merchants established at
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName>. The captains returned on board in the
                     evening, but we accepted of <persName>Mr. Loughnan's</persName> obliging offer
                     of his house during our short stay.</p>

                  <p n="47">Our excursions began the next morning, and were continued on the
                     following day. <date>[Friday 31.]</date>At <time>five o'clock</time> in the
                     morning we went upwards along the course of a stream, to the interior hilly
                     part of the country. About <time>one o'clock</time> in the afternoon we came to
                     a chesnut grove, somewhat below the highest summit of the island, having walked
                     about six miles from <persName>Mr. Loughnan's</persName> house. The air was
                     here remarkably cooler than below, and a fine breeze contributed to its
                     temperature. We now engaged a negro to become our conductor, and after a walk
                     of at least an hour and a half, we returned to our hospitable mansion.</p>

                  <p n="48">
                     <date>[1772. August.][Saturday 1.]</date>The next day we prepared for our
                     departure. It was with regret that I left this delightful spot, and such
                     generous friends, who know how to enjoy the unspeakable pleasure of
                     communicating happiness to their fellow-citizens of the world. My heart still
                     preserves those sentiments of gratitude and esteem, which made me loth to part
                     from hence, and to resign myself to the common fate of travellers. I was
                     however, pleased to find British hospitality existing <hi rend="italics">abroad</hi>, which Smollet could no longer trace in
                        <placeName>England</placeName>
                     <ref target="#edn10">
                        <note xml:id="edn10" anchored="true"> Vide <persName>
                              <hi rend="italics">Humphry Clinker</hi>
                           </persName>, vol. I. page 102. </note>
                     </ref>. </p>

                  <p n="49">Before I leave this island, I shall offer such remarks, as I had an
                     opportunity of collecting during my stay; and I am induced to believe they will
                     prove acceptable, as they were communicated by sensible Englishmen, who had
                     been inhabitants of <placeName>Madeira</placeName> for many years, and are
                     therefore of the best authority. I am aware indeed, that an account of
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName> may by some be looked upon as a superfluous
                     work; but if, upon a candid perusal, it is found to contain such observations
                     as have not yet appeared in the numerous journals of navigators, I hope I shall
                     not need a farther apology. It is very natural to overlook that which is near
                     home, and as it were within our reach, especially when the mind looks forward,
                     on discoveries which it reckons more important, in proportion as they are more
                     remote.</p>

                  <p n="50">The island of <placeName>Madeira</placeName> is about 55 English miles
                     long, and ten miles broad, and was first discovered on the 2d of July, in the
                     year 1419, by <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Joao Gonzales Zarco</hi>
                     </persName>, there being no historical foundation for the fabulous report of
                     its discovery by one <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Machin</hi>
                     </persName> an Englishman. It is divided into two <hi rend="italics">capitanias</hi>, named <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Funchal</hi>
                     </placeName> and <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Maxico</hi>
                     </placeName>, from the towns of those names. The former contains two
                     judicatures, viz. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Funchal</hi>
                     </placeName> and <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Calhetta</hi>
                     </placeName>, the latter being a town with the title of a county, belonging to
                     the family of <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Castello</hi>
                        <hi rend="italics">Melhor</hi>
                     </persName>. The second <hi rend="italics">capitania</hi> likewise
                     comprehends two judicatures, viz. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Maxico</hi>
                     </placeName> (read Mashico) and <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">San Vicente</hi>
                     </placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="51">
                     <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Funchal </hi>
                     </placeName>is the only <hi rend="italics">cidade</hi> or city in this
                     island, which has also seven <hi rend="italics">villas</hi> or towns; of
                     which there are four, <hi rend="italics">
                        <placeName>Calhetta</placeName>, <placeName>Camara de Lobos</placeName>,
                           <placeName>Ribiera braba</placeName>
                     </hi>, and <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Ponta de Sol</hi>
                     </placeName> in the capitania of <placeName>Funchal</placeName>, which is
                     divided into twenty-six parishes. The other three are in the capitania of
                        <placeName>Maxico</placeName>, which consist of seventeen parishes; these
                     towns are called <hi rend="italics">
                        <placeName>Maxico</placeName>, <placeName>San Vicente</placeName>
                     </hi>, and <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Santa Cruz</hi>
                     </placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="52">The governor is at the head of all the civil and military departments of
                     this island, of <placeName>Porto-Santo</placeName>, the <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Salvages</hi>
                     </placeName>, and the <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Ilhas Desertas</hi>
                     </placeName>, which last only contain the temporary huts of some fishermen, who
                     resort thither in pursuit of their business. At the time when I was at
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, the governor was <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Don Joao Antonio de Saa Pereira</hi>
                     </persName>. He was esteemed a man of good sense and temper, but rather
                     reserved and cautious.</p>

                  <p n="53">The law department is under the corregidor, who is appointed by the king
                     of <placeName>Portugal</placeName>, commonly sent from
                        <placeName>Lisbon</placeName>, and holds his place during the king's
                     pleasure. All causes come to him from inferior courts by appeal. Each
                     judicature has a senate, and a <hi rend="italics">Juiz</hi> or judge, whom
                     they choose, presides over them. At <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Funchal</hi>
                     </placeName> he is called, <hi rend="italics">Juiz da Fora</hi>, and in the
                     absence, or after the death of the corregidor, acts as his deputy. The foreign
                     merchants elect their own judge, called the <hi rend="italics">Providor</hi>, who is at the same time, collector of the king's customs and
                     revenues, which amount in all to about one hundred and twenty thousand pounds
                     sterling. Far the greatest part of this sum is applied towards the salaries of
                     civil and military officers, the pay of troops, and the maintenance of public
                     buildings. This revenue arises, first from the tenth of all the produce of this
                     island belonging to the king, by virtue of his office as grand master of the
                     order of Christ; secondly, from ten per cent. duties laid on all imports,
                     provisions excepted; and lastly, from the eleven per cent. charged on all
                     exports.</p>

                  <p n="54">The island has but one company of regular soldiers of a hundred men: the
                     rest of the military force is a militia consisting of three thousand men,
                     divided into companies, each commanded by a captain, who has one lieutenant
                     under him, and one ensign. There is no pay given to either the private men, or
                     the officers of this militia, and yet their places are much sought after, on
                     account of the rank which they communicate. These troops are embodied once a
                     year, and exercised during one month. All the military are commanded by the <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Serjeante Môr</hi>
                     </persName>. The governor has two <hi rend="italics">Capitanos de Sal</hi>
                     about him, who do duty as aides-de-camp.</p>

                  <p n="55">The secular priests on the island are about twelve hundred, many of whom
                     are employed as private tutors. Since the expulsion of the Jesuits, no regular
                     public school is to be found here, unless we except a seminary where a priest,
                     appointed for that purpose, instructs and educates ten students at the king's
                     expence. These wear a red cloak over the usual black gown, worn by ordinary
                     students. All those who intend to go into orders, are obliged to qualify
                     themselves by studying in the university of <hi rend="italics">Coimbra</hi>,
                     lately re-established in <placeName>Portugal</placeName>. There is also a dean
                     and chapter at <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, with a bishop at their head,
                     whose income is considerably greater than the governor's; it consists of one
                     hundred and ten pipes of wine, and of forty <hi rend="italics">muys</hi> of
                     wheat, each containing twenty-four bushels; which amounts in common years to
                     three thousand pounds sterling. Here are likewise sixty or seventy Franciscan
                     friars, in four monasteries, one of which is at <placeName>Funchal</placeName>.
                     About three hundred nuns live on the island, in four convents, of the orders of
                        <hi rend="italics">Merci, Sta. Clara, Incarnaçao</hi>, and <hi rend="italics">Bom Jesus</hi>. Those of the last-mentioned institution may
                     marry whenever they choose, and leave their monastery.</p>

                  <p n="56">In the year 1768, the inhabitants living in the forty-three parishes of
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, amounted to 63,913, of whom there were
                     31,341 males, and 32,572 females. But in that year 5243 persons died, and no
                     more than 2198 children were born; so that the number of the dead exceeded that
                     of the born by 3045. It is highly probable that some epidemical distemper
                     carried off so disproportionate a number in that year, as the island would
                     shortly be entirely depopulated, if the mortality were always equal to this.
                     Another circumstance concurs to strengthen this supposition, namely, the
                     excellence of the climate. The weather is in general mild and temperate: In
                     summer the heat is very moderate on the higher parts of the island, whither the
                     better sort of people retire for that season; and in winter the snow remains
                     there for several days, whilst it is never known to continue above a day or two
                     in the lower parts. The accuracy of the numbers of dead and born, may however
                     be entirely depended upon, as a complete list extracted from the parish books
                     was procured for us, from the governor's secretary.</p>

                  <p n="57">The common people of this island are of a tawny colour, and well shaped,
                     though they have large feet, owing perhaps to the efforts they are obliged to
                     make in climbing the craggy paths of this mountainous country. Their faces are
                     oblong, their eyes dark; their black hair naturally falls in ringlets, and
                     begins to crisp in some individuals, which may perhaps be owing to
                     intermarriages with negroes; in general they are hard featured, but not
                     disagreeable. Their women are too frequently ill-favoured, and want the florid
                     complexion, which, when united to a pleasing assemblage of regular features,
                     gives our Northern fair ones the superiority over all their sex. They are
                     small, have prominent cheek-bones, large feet, and ungraceful gait, and the
                     colour of the darkest <hi rend="italics">brunette</hi>. The just proportions
                     of their body, the fine form of their hands, and their large, lively eyes, seem
                     in some measure to compensate for those defects. The labouring men in summer,
                     wear linen trowsers, a coarse shirt, a large hat, and boots; some had a short
                     jacket made of cloth, and a long cloak, which they sometimes carried over their
                     arm. The women wear a petticoat, and a short corselet or jacket, closely
                     fitting their shape, which is a simple, and often not inelegant dress. They
                     have also a short, but wide cloak, and those that are unmarried, tie their hair
                     on the crown of their head, on which they wear no covering.</p>

                  <p n="58">The country people are exceeding sober and frugal; their diet in general
                     consisting of bread and onions, or other roots, and little animal food.
                     However, they avoid eating tripe, or any offals, because it is proverbially
                     said of a very poor man, " <hi rend="italics">he is reduced to eat
                        tripe</hi>." Their common drink is water, or an infusion on the remaining
                     rind or skin of the grape (after it has passed through the winepress) which
                     when fermented, acquires some tartness and acidity, but cannot be kept very
                     long. The wine for which the island is so famous, and which their own hands
                     prepare, seldom if ever regales them.</p>

                  <p n="59">Their principal occupation is the planting and raising of vines, but as
                     that branch of agriculture requires little attendance during the greatest part
                     of the year, they naturally incline to idleness. The warmth of the climate,
                     which renders great provision against the inclemencies of weather unnecessary,
                     and the ease with which the cravings of appetite are satisfied, must tend to
                     indolence, wherever the regulations of the legislature do not counteract it, by
                     endeavouring with the prospect of encreasing happiness, to infuse the spirit of
                     industry. It seems the Portuguese government does not pursue the proper methods
                     against this dangerous lethargy of the state. They have lately ordered the
                     plantation of olive-trees here, on such spots as are too dry and barren to bear
                     vines; but they have not thought of giving temporary assistance to the
                     labourers, and have offered no premium by which these might be induced to
                     conquer their reluctance to innovations, and aversion to labour.</p>

                  <p n="60">The vineyards are held only on an annual tenure, and the farmer reaps
                     but four tenths of the produce, since four other tenths are paid in kind to the
                     owner of the land, one tenth to the king, and one to the clergy. Such small
                     profits, joined to the thought of toiling merely for the advantage of others,
                     if improvements were attempted, entirely preclude the hopes of a future
                     increase. Oppressed as they are, they have however preserved a high degree of
                     chearfulness, and contentment; their labours are commonly alleviated with
                     songs, and in the evening they assemble from different cottages, to dance to
                     the drowsy music of a guittar.</p>

                  <p n="61">The inhabitants of the towns are more ill-favoured than the country
                     people, and often pale and lean. The men wear French cloaths, commonly black,
                     which do not seem to fit them, and have been in fashion in the polite world
                     about half a century ago. Their ladies are delicate, and have agreeable
                     features; but the characteristic jealousy of the men still locks them up, and
                     deprives them of a happiness which the country women, amidst all their
                     distresses, enjoy. Many of the better people, are a sort of <hi rend="italics">petite noblesse</hi>, which we would call <hi rend="italics">gentry</hi>, whose genealogical pride makes them unsociable and ignorant,
                     and causes a ridiculous affectation of gravity. The landed property is in the
                     hands of a few ancient families, who live at Funchal, and in the various towns
                     on the island.</p>

                  <p n="62">
                     <placeName>Madeira</placeName> consists of one large mountain, whose branches
                     rise every where from the sea towards the centre of the isle, converging to the
                     summit, in the midst of which, I was told, is a depression or excavation,
                     called the Val by the inhabitants, always covered with a fresh and delicate
                     herbage. The stones on the isle, which we examined, seemed to have been in the
                     fire, were full of holes, and of a blackish colour; in short, the greater part
                     of them were lava. A few of them were of the kind which the Derby-shire miners
                     call dunstone. The soil of the whole island is a tarras mixed with some
                     particles of clay, lime, and sand, and has much the same appearance as some
                     earths we since found on the <placeName>isle of Ascension</placeName> From this
                     circumstance, and from the excavation of the summit of the mountain, I am
                     induced to suppose, that in some remote period, a volcano has produced the
                     lava, and the ochreous particles, and that the Val was formerly its crater. At
                     first sight of <placeName>Madeira</placeName> I was of a different opinion; but
                     the black Loo-rock, the cliff on which St. John's castle stands, the nature of
                     the soil and stones, and the situation of the Val, convinced me, that the whole
                     had formerly undergone a violent change by fire.</p>

                  <p n="63">Many brooks and small rivulets descend from the summits in deep chasms
                     or glens, which separate the various parts of the isle. We could not however
                     perceive any <hi rend="italics">plains</hi> mentioned by others<ref target="#edn11">
                        <note xml:id="edn11" anchored="true"> See an <hi rend="italics">Account of
                              the Voyages undertaken by the order of his present Majesty, and
                              successively performed by the <persName>Captains Byron</persName>,
                                 <persName>Wallis</persName>, <persName>Carteret</persName>, and
                                 <persName>Cook</persName>
                           </hi>. - Compiled by <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth</persName>. Vol. II. p.
                           7. </note>
                     </ref>, through which the waters would probably have taken their course, if any
                     such had existed. The beds of the brooks are in some places covered with stones
                     of all sizes, carried down from the higher parts by the violence of winter
                     rains or floods of melted snow. The water is conducted by wears and channels
                     into the vineyards, where each proprietor has the use of it for a certain time;
                     some being allowed to keep a constant supply of it, some to use it thrice,
                     others twice, and others only once a week. As the heat of the climate renders
                     this supply of water to the vineyards absolutely necessary, it is not without
                     great expence that a new vineyard can be planted; for the maintenance of which,
                     the owners must purchase water at a high price, from those who are constantly
                     supplied, and are thus enabled to spare some of it.</p>

                  <p n="64">Wherever a level piece of ground can be contrived in the higher hills,
                     the natives make plantations of eddoes (<hi rend="italics">arum
                        esculentum</hi>, Linn.) enclosed by a kind of dyke to cause a stagnation,
                     as that plant succeeds best in swampy ground. Its leaves serve as food for
                     hogs, and the country people use the roots for their own nourishment.</p>

                  <p n="65">The sweet potatoe (<hi rend="italics">convolvulus batatas</hi>) is
                     planted for the same purpose, and makes a principal article of diet; together
                     with chesnuts, which grow in extensive woods, on the higher parts of the
                     island, where the vine will not thrive. Wheat and barley are likewise sown,
                     especially in spots where the vines are decaying through age, or where they are
                     newly planted. But the crops do not produce above three months provisions, and
                     the inhabitants are therefore obliged to have recourse to other food, besides
                     importing considerable quantities of corn from
                        <placeName>North-America</placeName> in exchange for wine. The want of
                     manure, and the inactivity of the people, are in some measure the causes of
                     this disadvantage; but supposing husbandry to be carried to its perfection
                     here, I believe they could not raise corn sufficient for their consumption.
                     They make their threshing-floors of a circular form, in a corner of the field,
                     which is cleared and beaten solid for the purpose. The sheaves are laid round
                     about it, and a square board stuck full of sharp flints below, is dragged over
                     them by a pair of oxen, the driver getting on it to encrease its weight. This
                     machine cuts the straw as if it had been chopped, and frees the grain from the
                     husk, from which it is afterwards separated.</p>

                  <p n="66">The great produce of <placeName>Madeira</placeName> is the wine, from
                     which it has acquired fame and support. Where the soil, exposure, and supply of
                     water will admit of it, the vine is cultivated. One or more walks, about a yard
                     or two wide, intersect each vineyard, and are included by stone-walls two feet
                     high. Along these walks, which are arched over with laths about seven feet
                     high, they erect wooden pillars at regular distances, to support a lattice-work
                     of bamboos, which slopes down from both sides of the walk, till it is only a
                     foot and a half or two feet high, in which elevation it extends over the whole
                     vineyard. The vines are in this manner supported from the ground, and the
                     people have room to root out the weeds which spring up between them. In the
                     season of the vintage they creep under this lattice-work, cut off the grapes,
                     and lay them into baskets: some bunches of these grapes I saw, which weighed
                     six pounds and upwards. This method of keeping the ground clean and moist, and
                     ripening the grapes in the shade, contributes to give the Madeira wines that
                     excellent flavour and body for which they are remarkable. The owners of
                     vineyards are however obliged to allot a certain spot of ground for the growth
                     of bamboos; for the lattice-work cannot be made without them; and I was told
                     some vineyards lay quite neglected for want of this useful reed.</p>

                  <p n="67">The wines are not all of equal goodness, and consequently of different
                     prices. The best, made of a vine imported from <placeName>Candia</placeName>,
                     by order of the Infante of Portugal, <persName>Don Henry</persName>, is called
                        <hi rend="italics">Madeira Malmsey</hi>, a pipe of which cannot be bought
                     on the spot for less than 40 or 42 <hi rend="italics">l</hi>. sterling. It
                     is an exceeding rich sweet wine, and is only made in a small quantity. The next
                     sort is a dry wine, such as is exported for the <placeName>London</placeName>
                     market, at 30 or 31 <hi rend="italics">l</hi>. sterling the pipe. Inferior
                     sorts for the <placeName>East India</placeName>, <placeName>West
                        India</placeName>, and North-American markets, fell at 28, 25, and 20 <hi rend="italics">l</hi>. sterling. About thirty thousand pipes, upon a mean,
                     are made every year, each containing one hundred and ten gallons. About
                     thirteen thousand pipes of the better sorts are exported, and all the rest is
                     made into brandy for the Brazils, converted into vinegar, or consumed at
                     home.</p>

                  <p n="68">The enclosures of the vineyards consist of walls, and hedges of prickly
                     pear, pomegranates, myrtles, brambles, and wild roses. The gardens produce
                     peaches, apricots, quinces, apples, pears, walnuts, chesnuts, and many other
                     European fruits; together with now and then some tropical plants, such as
                     bananas, goavas, and pine-apples. </p>

                  <p n="69">All the common domestic animals of <placeName>Europe</placeName> are
                     like wise found at <placeName>Madeira</placeName>; and their mutton and beef,
                     though small, is very well tasted. Their horses are small, but sure-footed; and
                     with great agility climb the difficult paths, which are the only means of
                     communication in the country. They have no wheel-carriages of any kind; but in
                     the town they use a sort of drays or sledges, formed of two pieces of plank
                     joined by cross pieces, which make an acute angle before; these are drawn by
                     oxen, and are used to transport casks of wine, and other heavy goods, to and
                     from the warehouses.</p>

                  <p n="70">The animals of the feathered tribe, which live wild here, are more
                     numerous than the wild quadrupeds; there being only the common grey rabbet
                     here, as a representative of the last-mentioned class. We observed the
                     sparrow-hawk, (<hi rend="italics">falco nisus</hi>); several crows, (<hi rend="italics">corvus corone</hi>); magpies, (<hi rend="italics">corvus
                        pica</hi>); sky and wood-larks, (<hi rend="italics">alauda
                        arvensis</hi>, &amp; <hi rend="italics">arborea</hi>); starlings,
                        (<hi rend="italics">sturnus vulgaris</hi>); yellow hammers, (<hi rend="italics">emberiza citrinella</hi>); common and mountain sparrows,
                        (<hi rend="italics">fringilla domestica</hi> &amp; <hi rend="italics">montana</hi>); yellow wagtails and robin redbreasts, (<hi rend="italics">motacilla flava</hi> &amp; <hi rend="italics">rubecula</hi>); and wild
                     pigeons, of which we could not determine the species. We likewise saw the
                     house-swallow and swift, (<hi rend="italics">hirundo rustica</hi> &amp;
                        <hi rend="italics">apus</hi>); and some gentlemen of the British factory
                     assured us they had also seen the martin, (<hi rend="italics">h.
                     urbica</hi>). This last genus of birds lives here all the winter, and only
                     disappears for a few days in very cold weather, retiring to clifts and crevices
                     of the rocks, and returning on the first fair sunny day. The red-legged
                     partridge, (<hi rend="italics">tetrao</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">rufus</hi>), is likewise common in the interior parts of
                     the isle, where it is not much disturbed. In <persName>Mr.
                        Loughnan's</persName> aviary I saw waxbills, (<hi rend="italics">loxia
                        astrild</hi>), chaffinches, goldfinches, yellowfinches, and canary-birds,
                        (<hi rend="italics">fringilla coelebs</hi>, <hi rend="italics">carduelis</hi>, <hi rend="italics">butyracea</hi>, &amp; <hi rend="italics">canaria</hi>); all of which had been caught upon this
                     island. Tame birds, such as turkies, geese, ducks, and hens, are very rare,
                     which is perhaps owing to the scarcity of corn.</p>

                  <p n="71">There are no snakes whatsoever in <placeName>Madeira</placeName>; but
                     all the houses, vineyards, and gardens swarm with lizards. The friars of one of
                     the convents complained, that these vermin destroyed the fruit in their garden;
                     they had therefore placed a brass kettle in the ground to catch them, as they
                     are constantly running about in quest of food. In this manner they daily caught
                     hundreds, which could not get out on account of the smooth sides of the kettle,
                     but were forced to perish.</p>

                  <p n="72">The shores of <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, and of the neighbouring
                        <placeName>Salvages</placeName> and <placeName>Desertas</placeName>, are not
                     without fish; but as they are not in plenty enough for the rigid observance of
                     Lent, pickled herrings are brought from <placeName>Gothenburg</placeName> in
                     English bottoms, and salted cod from <placeName>New-York</placeName> and other
                     American ports, to supply the deficiency.</p>

                  <p n="73">We found a few insects here, and might perhaps have collected more, if
                     our stay had been of longer duration; those we met with were of known sorts,
                     and in no great variety. On this occasion I shall mention a general remark,
                     which ought to be applied to all the <hi rend="italics">islands</hi> we have
                     touched at during the course of our voyage. Quadrupeds, amphibious reptiles,
                     and insects, are not numerous in <hi rend="italics">islands</hi>, at some
                     distance from a continent, and the first are not to be met with at all, unless
                     they were formerly transported thither by men. Fishes and birds, which are able
                     to pass through water or air, are more frequent, and in greater variety. <hi rend="italics">Continents</hi>, on the other hand, are rich in the
                     above-mentioned classes of animals, as well as in those of birds and fishes,
                     which are more universal. <placeName>Africa</placeName>, which we visited
                     during this voyage, in a few weeks supplied us with a great variety of
                     quadrupeds, reptiles, and insects, whilst all the other lands where we touched,
                     afforded no new discoveries in those classes.</p>
               </div>
               <div n="2" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. II.<lb/>
                     The Passage from <placeName>Madeira</placeName> to the <placeName>Cape Verd
                           Islands</placeName>, and from thence to the <placeName>Cape of Good
                           Hope.</placeName>
                     <lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="74">
                     <date>[1772. August.]</date>LATE in the evening on the first of August, we got
                     under sail, in company with the Adventure. A North-east wind forwarded our
                     course so well, that we got sight <date>[Tuesday 4.]</date>of Palma on the
                     fourth, early in the morning. This island is one of the group now called the
                     Canaries, known to the ancients by the name of <hi rend="italics">Insulӕ </hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">Fortunatœ</hi>, one of them being already at that time
                     distinguished by the name of <hi rend="italics">Canaria</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn12">
                        <note xml:id="edn12" anchored="true"> It is probable that not only the
                              <placeName>Canaries</placeName>, but likewise
                              <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, and <placeName>Porto-Santo</placeName>
                           were known to the ancients; a circumstance from which it is possible to
                           reconcile their various accounts of the number of these islands. See
                              <hi rend="italics">Plin. Hist. Nat.</hi> lib. vi. cap. 37. The
                           description given of them by ancient writers, agree with the modern
                           accounts. See <hi rend="italics">Vossius in Pompon, Melam</hi>. ad
                           cap. x. v. 20. <hi rend="italics">Ex iisdem quoque insulis cinnabaris
                              Romam advehebatur. Sane hodie etiamnum frequens est in insulis
                              fortunatis arbor illa quӕ cinnabarin gignit. Vulgo</hi> Sanguinem
                           Draconis appellant. - We have Pliny's testimony, lib. vi. cap. 36. that
                           Juba, the Mauritanian king, dyed purple in some of these isles, opposite
                           to the Autololes in <placeName>Africa</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>. They were entirely forgotten in <placeName>Europe</placeName>, till
                     towards the end of the fourteenth century, when the spirit of navigation and
                     discovery was revived. Some adventurers then found them again, and the
                     Biscayans landed on <placeName>Lanzarota</placeName>, and carried off one
                     hundred and seventy of the natives. <persName>Luis de la Cerda</persName>, a
                     Spanish nobleman of the royal family of Castile, in consequence of a bull from
                     the Pope, in the year 1344, assumed the title of Prince of the Fortunate
                     Islands, but never went to take possession of his estates. Lastly,
                        <persName>John, Baron de Bethencourt</persName> of
                        <placeName>Normandy</placeName>, visited these islands again in the year
                     1402, took possession of several, and called himself King of the Canaries. His
                     nephew ceded his claims upon them to <persName>Don Henry</persName>, Infante of
                        <placeName>Portugal</placeName>; but they were afterwards left to the
                     Spaniards, who now possess them.</p>

                  <p n="75">
                     <date>[Wednesday 5.]</date>The next day at <time>five o'clock in the
                        morning</time>, we passed the <placeName>isle of Ferro</placeName>,
                     remarkable only from this circumstance, that several geographers have reckoned
                     their first meridian from its westermost extremity. The same day, being in
                     about <geo select="lat">27 deg. N.</geo> latitude, we observed several flying
                     fishes, pursued by bonitos and dolphins, rising out of the water in order to
                     escape from them. They were flying in all directions, and not against the wind
                     only, as <persName>Mr. Kalm</persName> seems to think. Neither did they confine
                     themselves to a strait-lined course, but frequently were seen to describe a
                     curve. When they met the top of a wave as they skimmed along the surface of the
                     ocean, they passed through, and continued their flight beyond it. From this
                     time, till we left the torrid zone, we were almost daily amused with the view
                     of immense shoals of these fishes, and now and then caught one upon our decks
                     when it had unfortunately taken its flight too far, and was spent by its too
                     great elevation above the surface of the sea. In the uniform life which we led
                     between the tropics, where we found weather, wind, and sea, almost constantly
                     favourable and agreeable, the mind catched at every little circumstance that
                     could give the hint to a reflection. When we saw the most beautiful fishes of
                     the sea, the dolphin and bonito, in pursuit of the flying fish, and when these
                     forsook their native element to seek for shelter in air, the application to
                     human nature was obvious. What empire is not like a tumultuous ocean, where the
                     great in all the magnificence and pomp of power, continually persecute and
                     contrive the destruction of the defenceless? - Sometimes we saw this picture
                     continued still farther, when the poor fugitives met with another set of
                     enemies in the air, and became the prey of birds<ref target="#edn13">
                        <note xml:id="edn13" anchored="true"> Boobies (<hi rend="italics">pelecanus
                              piscator</hi>); men of war birds (<hi rend="italics">p.
                              aquilus</hi>); and, tropic birds (<hi rend="italics">phaethon
                              ӕthereus</hi>). </note>
                     </ref>, by endeavouring to escape the jaws of fishes.</p>

                  <p n="76">
                     <date>[Saturday 8.]</date>On the 8th we observed the sea to be of a whitish
                     colour, and tried for soundings, but found none with fifty fathoms of line. In
                     the evening we crossed the tropic of cancer. About this time, the captain
                     ordered the ship to be fumigated with gunpowder and vinegar, having taken
                     notice that all our books, and utensils became covered with mould, and all our
                     iron and steel though ever so little exposed, began to rust. Nothing is more
                     probable than that the vapours, which now filled the air, contained some saline
                     particles, since moisture alone does not appear to produce such an effect<ref target="#edn14">
                        <note xml:id="edn14" anchored="true"> This opinion is very judiciously
                           discussed by <persName>Ellis</persName>, in his voyage to
                              <placeName>Hudson's Bay</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>. If it be asked how any saline particles, generally so much heavier than
                     the aqueous, can be raised in vapours, I leave it to the philosophers to
                     determine, whether the numerous animal parts which daily putrefy in the ocean,
                     do not supply enough of the volatile alkali, by the assistance of which the
                     above phӕnomenon might be explained. The great heat between the tropics seems
                     to volatilise the marine acid contained in the brine and common salt: for it
                     has been observed, that on rags dipped in a solution of any one of the
                     alkalies, and suspended over one of the pans where brine is evaporated and salt
                     is prepared, crystals are soon formed of a neutral salt, compounded of the
                     marine acid and the alkali in which the rags had been immersed; hence perhaps
                     we may be allowed to infer, that the marine acid is by the heat of the tropical
                     sun volatilised, and in that aërial or vaporous form attacks the surface of
                     iron and steel; nay, this little quantity of acid may perhaps, imbibed by the
                     lungs, and pores of the skin, become salutary; in the first case to people
                     under pulmonary diseases; and in the second by gently bracing the habit of
                     bodies relaxed by a tropical heat, and moderating the too violent
                     perspiration.</p>

                  <p n="77">The inspissated essence of beer, of which we had several casks on board,
                     was observed to be in motion before we left <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, and
                     now began to burst the casks and run out. The captain ordering it to be brought
                     on deck, its fermentation was encreased by the addition of fresh air, and
                     several of the casks had their heads forced out by the fermenting liquor, with
                     an explosion like that of a fowling-piece. A kind of vapour, like smoke, always
                     preceded the eruption. A vessel, strongly fumigated with sulphur, was, by my
                     father's advice, filled with this essence, by which means the fermentation was
                     stopped for a few days, but returned afterwards, especially in casks exposed to
                     the free access of air. Some casks, which had been buried in the
                     ballast-shingle, were preserved and prevented from bursting. Perhaps the
                     admixture of double-distilled spirit, might have hindered the progress of
                     fermentation in this essence. The beer made of it, by the simple addition of
                     warm water, was very good and palatable, though it had a little empyreumatic
                     taste, caused by the inspissation.</p>

                  <p n="78">
                     <date>[Tuesday 11.]</date>August the 11th we discovered
                        <placeName>Bonavista</placeName>, one of the <placeName>Cape-Verd
                        islands</placeName>. The next morning, the weather cleared up, after a
                     shower of rain, and presented to our sight the <placeName>isle of
                        Mayo</placeName>. About noon we approached the <placeName>isle of San
                        Jago</placeName>, and anchored at <time>three o'clock</time> in the
                     afternoon in <placeName>Porto-Praya</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="79">
                     <date>[Thursday 13.]</date>Early the next morning, we went on shore, and
                     visited the commandant of the fort, <persName>Don Joseph de Sylva</persName>, a
                     good-natured man, who spoke the French imperfectly, and introduced us to the
                     governor-general of the <placeName>Cape-Verd islands</placeName>. This
                     gentleman, whose name was <persName>Don Joachim Salama Saldanha de
                        Lobos</persName>, commonly resides at <placeName>St. Jago</placeName>, the
                     capital of the island; but as he was very sickly, which his complexion
                     witnessed for him, he had retired hither about two months ago, where the air is
                     reckoned more salubrious. He occupied the apartments of the commandant, who was
                     now obliged to dwell in a wretched cottage, and who gave us some information
                     relative to these islands.</p>

                  <p n="80">In 1449, <persName>Antonio Nolli</persName>, probably by others named
                        <persName>Antoniotto</persName>, a Genoese in the service of <persName>Don
                        Henry</persName>, Infante of <placeName>Portugal</placeName>, discovered
                     some of the <placeName>Cape-Verd islands</placeName>, and on the first of May
                     landed on one of them, which had its name from thence. <placeName>St.
                        Jago</placeName> was seen at the same time. In 1460, another voyage was
                     undertaken in order to settle them; and on this occasion the remaining islands
                     were likewise discovered. <placeName>San Jago</placeName> is the greatest of
                     them, and about seventeen leagues in length. The capital, of the same name,
                     lies in the interior parts of the country, and is the see of the bishop of all
                     the <placeName>Cape-Verd islands</placeName>. This isle is divided into eleven
                     parishes, and the most populous of these contains about four thousand houses,
                     so that it is but very thinly inhabited.</p>

                  <p n="81">
                     <placeName>Porto-Praya</placeName> stands on a steep rock, to which we climbed
                     by a serpentine path. Its fortifications are old decayed walls on the sea side,
                     and fences, scarce breast-high, made of loose stones, towards the land. A small
                     church is inclosed within these walls, towards the sea; but, besides it, there
                     are only a few cottages. A tolerable building, at a little distance from the
                     fort, belongs to a company of merchants at <placeName>Lisbon</placeName> who
                     have the exclusive right to trade to all the <placeName>Cape-Verd
                        islands</placeName>, and keep an agent here for that purpose. When we made
                     application to this indolent Don, by the Governor's direction, to be supplied
                     with live cattle, he indeed promised to furnish as many as we wanted, but we
                     never got more than a single lean bullock. The company perfectly tyrannizes
                     over the inhabitants, and sells them wretched merchandize at exorbitant
                     prices.</p>

                  <p n="82">The natives of <placeName>St. Jago</placeName> are few in number, of a
                     middle stature, ugly, and almost perfectly black, with frizzled woolly hair,
                     and thick lips, like the most ill-looking kind of negroes. The ingenious and
                     very learned Canon Pauw, at Xanten, in his Recherches Philosophiques fur les
                     Americains, vol. I. p. 186. seems to take it for granted, that they are the
                     descendants of the first Portuguese settlers, gradually degenerated through
                     nine generations (three hundred years) to their present hue, which we found
                     darker than he describes it. But whether, according to his and the Abbé de
                        Manet's<ref target="#edn15">
                        <note xml:id="edn15" anchored="true"> See his <hi rend="italics">Nouvelle
                              Histoire de l'Afrique Françoise, enrichie de Cartes</hi>, <hi rend="italics">&amp;c</hi>. a Paris, 1767, 12mo. vol. II, p. 224.
                        </note>
                     </ref> opinion, this change of complexion was effected merely by the heat of
                     the torrid zone, or whether they have acquired their sable colour by
                     intermarriages with negroes from the adjacent coast of
                        <placeName>Africa</placeName>, is a question which I do not venture to
                     decide, though so able and judicious an investigator of nature as Count Buffon,
                     asserts, that " the colours of the human species depend principally on the
                     climate." See Histoire Naturelle, in 12mo, vol. VI. p. 260. At present there
                     are very few white people among them, and I believe we did not see above five
                     or six, including the governor, commandant, and company's agent. In some of the
                     islands, even the governors and priests are taken from among the blacks. The
                     better sort of them wear ragged European cloaths, which they have obtained by
                     barter from ships that touched here, previous to the establishment of the
                     monopolizing company. The rest content themselves with a few separate articles
                     of dress, either a shirt, or a waistcoat, or a pair of breeches, or a hat; and
                     seem to be well pleased with their own appearance. The women are ugly, and wear
                     a long strip of striped cotton over the shoulders, hanging down to the knees
                     before and behind; but children are perfectly naked till the age of puberty.
                     Despotic governors, bigotted priests, and indolence on the part of the court of
                     Lisbon, will always keep these people in a wretched situation, beneath that of
                     any community of negroes in <placeName>Africa</placeName>, and prevent them
                     from increasing their numbers, which are the real wealth of a nation. It is
                     natural for people whose solids are relaxed in a fervid climate, to incline to
                     sloth and laziness; but they are confirmed in these vices, and must become
                     indifferent to improvement, when they know the attempt would only make their
                     situation more irksome. With a kind of gloomy insensibility they give
                     themselves up to beggary, the only state which can protect them from the greedy
                     clutches of tyrannical masters; and they shun every labour, which must encrease
                     the treasures of others without benefit to themselves; and which only breaks in
                     upon those hours of rest, that are now the solace of their precarious
                     condition. Such clouded prospects, that never admit a gleam of happiness,
                     cannot be incitements to marriage, and the difficulty of supporting a wretched
                     existence, is a sufficient reason to decline the cares annexed to the relation
                     of parents. Let us add to this, that the dry soil, whose fertility depends on
                     the stated return of annual rains, is parched up whenever a drought takes
                     place; all vegetation is then destroyed, and an inevitable famine succeeds. It
                     may be reasonably supposed, that the experience of such fatal periods, deters
                     the inhabitants from indulging in the sweets of conjugal connections, when they
                     must apprehend that misery, and perhaps the horrors of slavery, await their
                     unhappy offspring<ref target="#edn16">
                        <note xml:id="edn16" anchored="true"> On our return to the <placeName>Cape
                              of Good Hope</placeName>, in 1775, we were told of a general famine
                           which had happened in the <placeName>Cape-Verd islands</placeName> in
                           1773 and 1774, and which had risen to such a height that hundreds of
                           people had perished for want. The commander of a Dutch ship, which
                           touched at <placeName>St. Jago</placeName> during this distressful
                           season, received several of the natives, with their wives and children,
                           who sold themselves to him, in order to escape the dreadful consequences
                           of want. He carried them to the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>,
                           and sold them; but when the Government there was informed of it, he was
                           ordered to redeem them at his own expence, to carry them back to their
                           native country, and to bring a certificate from the Portuguese governor,
                           importing the execution of these orders. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="83">The <placeName>Cape-Verd islands</placeName> in general are mountainous,
                     but their lower hills which are covered with a fine verdure, have a very gentle
                     declivity, and extensive vallies run between them. They are ill supplied with
                     water, which in many of them is only found in pits or wells. <placeName>St.
                        Jago</placeName> has, however, a tolerable river running into the sea at
                        <placeName>Ribiera Grande</placeName>, a town which takes its name from
                     thence. At <placeName>Porto-Praya</placeName> there was only a single well set
                     round with loose stones, and containing muddy brackish water, in such small
                     quantities, that we drew it quite dry twice a day. The valley by the side of
                     the fort seems to have some moisture, and is planted here and there with
                     cocoa-nut-palms, sugar-canes, bananas, cotton, goava, and papaw-trees; but the
                     greatest part of it is over-run with various sorts of brushwood, and another is
                     left for pastures.</p>

                  <p n="84">We may perhaps conclude from hence, that the <placeName>Cape-Verd
                        islands</placeName> in the hands of an active, enterprising, or commercial
                     nation, would become interesting and useful, and might be cultivated to the
                     greatest advantage. The cochineal-plant, indigo, some spices, and perhaps
                     coffee, would thrive particularly well in this hot and parched climate; and
                     these productions would be sufficient to supply the natives not only with the
                     necessaries, but likewise with the conveniences and luxuries of life, under the
                     benign influence of a free and equal government, like that under which we have
                     the happiness to live in this country. Instead of feeding on a scanty allowance
                     of roots, we should see their board heaped with plenty, and convenient houses
                     would then supply the place of wretched hovels.</p>

                  <p n="85">Some of the lower hills were dry and barren, scarce any plants growing
                     upon them; but others had still some verdure on them, though we were now at the
                     end of the dry season. They are all covered with abundance of stones, which
                     appear to have been burnt, and are a species of lava. The foil, which is
                     fertile enough in the vallies, is a kind of rubbish of cinders, and ochreous
                     ashes; and the rocks on the sea-shore are likewise black and burnt. It is
                     therefore probably, that this island has undergone a change from volcanic
                     eruptions; and it will not be deemed unreasonable to form the same opinion of
                     all the <placeName>Cape-Verd islands</placeName>, when we consider that one of
                     them, the island of Fuogo, still consists of a burning mountain. The interior
                     mountains of the country are lofty, and some of them appear steep and craggy,
                     being perhaps of a more ancient date than the volcanic parts which we could
                     examine.</p>

                  <p n="86">In the evening we returned on board; but as the surf ran considerably
                     higher than at our landing, we were obliged to strip in order to wade to our
                     boats, which our best swimmers had loaded with water-casks, and such
                     refreshments as could be purchased on shore; not without some danger of being
                     hurt by sharks, which are numerous in the harbour. The captains, astronomers,
                     and masters, had spent this day in making astronomical observations upon the
                     little islet in the harbour, named <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Ilha dos</hi>
                        <hi rend="italics">Codornizes</hi>
                     </placeName> or <placeName>Quail island</placeName>, from the birds which are
                     in great plenty upon it. The commandant of the fort informed us, that the
                     officers of a French frigate had likewise made astronomical observations on
                     this identical spot some time ago, having several watches of a new construction
                     on board<ref target="#edn17">
                        <note xml:id="edn17" anchored="true"> This was the Isis frigate, commanded
                           by <persName>M. de Fleurieu</persName>, on board of which was
                              <persName>M. Pingrè</persName>, with several time-keepers. A journal
                           of the voyage and observations made in that ship, has since been
                           published in 2 vols. quarto. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="87">
                     <date>[Friday 14.]</date>The next day <persName>captain Cook</persName> invited
                     the governor-general, and the commandant to dinner, and we staid on board, in
                     order to act as interpreters on this occasion. The captain sent them his own
                     boat; but when it came on shore, the governor begged to be excused, because he
                     was always affected with sickness on board any vessel, whether at sea or in
                     harbour. The commandant promised to come, but having at first neglected to ask
                     the governor's leave, the latter retired to take his <hi rend="italics">siesta</hi> (or afternoon's repose) and no one ventured to disturb
                     him.</p>

                  <p n="88">The extreme scarcity of refreshments made our stay at
                        <placeName>Porto-Praya</placeName> very short. We were therefore obliged to
                     content ourselves with a few casks of brackish water, a single bullock, a few
                     long-legged goats, with strait horns and pendulous ears, some lean hogs,
                     turkies, and fowls, and a few hundreds of unripe oranges, and indifferent
                     bananas. The researches we had made the preceding day, furnished us with a few
                     tropical plants, mostly of known species, with some new kinds of insects and of
                     fish. We also observed several sorts of birds, and among them guinea-hens,
                     which seldom fly, but run very swiftly, and which, when old, are very tough and
                     dry eating. Quails and red-legged partridges are likewise common, according to
                     the report of the natives, though we did not see any; but the most remarkable
                     bird we found is a species of Kingfisher<ref target="#edn18">
                        <note xml:id="edn18" anchored="true"> The same species is found in Arabia
                           Felix; vide Forskal <hi rend="italics">Fauna Arabica</hi>; as also in
                           Abyssinia, as appears from the elegant and valuble drawings of
                              <persName>James Bruce</persName>, Esq. </note>
                     </ref>, because it feeds on large land-crabs of a blue and red colour, whose
                     numerous habitations are round and deep holes in the dry and parched soil. Our
                     sailors, who catch at every thing that may afford them diversion, purchased
                     about fifteen or twenty monkies, known by the name of St. Jago, or green
                     monkies (<hi rend="italics">simia sabœa</hi>); which were a little bigger
                     than cats, and of a greenish-brown colour, with black faces and paws. On each
                     side of their mouth, they had a kind of pouch (like many others of the monkey
                     tribe) which the English in the West-Indian colonies, call by their Spanish
                     name <hi rend="italics">alforjes</hi>. The antic tricks of these little
                     monkies were amusing for some days, while their novelty lasted; but they soon
                     became insipid companions, were neglected, sometimes cruelly bandied about the
                     vessel, and starved to death for want of fresh food, so that only three of them
                     reached the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>. A harmless race of
                     animals, dragged from the happy recess of native shades, to wear out the rest
                     of their lives in continual anguish and torment, deserve a pitying remembrance,
                     though humanity would fain have drawn the veil of all acts of iron-hearted
                     insensibility, and wanton barbarism.</p>

                  <p n="89">We got under sail in the evening and steered to the southward, having
                     mild weather with frequent showers of rain on the following days, and the wind
                     blowing from N.E. by N. to N.N.E. <date>[Sunday 16.]</date>On the 16th, at
                        <time>eight o'clock in the evening</time>, we saw a luminous fiery meteor,
                     of an oblong shape and blueish colour, and having a very quick descending
                     motion: its course was N.W. and it disappeared in the horizon after a momentary
                     duration. Our distance from <placeName>St. Jago</placeName> was fifty-five
                     leagues at noon, notwithstanding which, we saw a swallow following our vessel,
                     and making numberless circles round it. The necessary manoeuvres of trimming
                     the sails, in the evening disturbed it from its roost on one of the gun-ports,
                     upon which it took shelter in the carved work of the stern. <date>[Tuesday
                        18.]</date>The two following days it continued to attend the ship on her
                     course. During this time we observed many bonitos in the sea around us, which
                     frequently shot past us with great velocity; but notwithstanding our endeavours
                     to catch them with hooks, and strike them with harpoons, we could not take a
                     single one. The crew were more successful in hooking a shark of about five feet
                     in length. Its common attendants, the pilot-fish (<hi rend="italics">gasterosteus ductor</hi>) and sucking-fish (<hi rend="italics">echeneis
                        remora</hi>), likewise appeared with it; but with this difference, that
                     the former carefully avoided being caught; and swam about very nimbly; but the
                     latter stuck so fast to the shark's body, that four of them were hauled on deck
                     with it. We dined on part of the shark the next day, and found it a tolerable
                     food when fried, but rather of difficult digestion on account of its fat.</p>

                  <p n="90">
                     <date>[Thursday 20.]</date>Two days after, <persName>Henry Smock</persName>,
                     one of the carpenter's crew, being employed on the sides of the ship, was
                     suddenly missed, and probably had fallen over-board and was drowned. His
                     good-natured character, and a kind of serious turn of mind caused him to be
                     regretted <hi rend="italics">even</hi> among his shipmates, and must
                     embitter his loss to those, whom the tender ties of parental or conjugal
                     affection had united to him. Humanity stole a tear from each feeling traveller,
                     the tribute due to a rational fellow creature of a gentle and amiable
                     disposition.</p>

                  <p n="91">
                     <date>[Friday 21.]</date>We had frequent showers after leaving <placeName>St.
                        Jago</placeName>, and experienced a remarkable heavy fall of rain on the
                        <date>21st</date>, during which we caught up seven puncheons of fresh water
                     in our spread awnings. This supply, though we were not distressed for want of
                     it, was however very seasonable, inasmuch as we were now enabled to give large
                     allowance of this necessary element to the crew. <persName>Captain
                        Cook's</persName> remark deduced from long experience, that abundance of
                     fresh water contributes to the preservation of health in long voyages, is
                     extremely judicious, and seems to be founded on the known principles of
                     physiology. If seamen have plenty of water to drink, and some to wash
                     themselves and their linen, this essential precaution will in a great measure
                     prevent the sea-scurvy from gaining ground among them. Their blood is diluted,
                     and the waste of fluids caused by profuse perspiration in hot climates, is
                     restored by plentiful drinking, and the insensible perspiration likewise goes
                     on without a check, when the people frequently shift their linen, and wash off
                     any uncleanliness that may obstruct the pores. It is evident that the greatest
                     danger of putrid distempers is thus precluded; since the reimbibing of
                     perspired matter, and the violence of perspiration without a fresh supply to
                     temper and dilute the saline and caustic quality of the remaining fluids,
                     (which are often supposed to be the causes of inflammatory fevers) are both in
                     a great measure prevented.</p>

                  <p n="92">The heavy rains of this morning, entirely soaked the plumage of the poor
                     swallow, which had accompanied us for several days past; it was obliged
                     therefore to settle on the railing of the quarter-deck, and suffered itself to
                     be caught. I dried it, and when it was recovered, let it fly about in the
                     steerage, where, far from repining at its confinement, it immediately began to
                     feed upon the flies, which were numerous there. At dinner we opened the
                     windows, and the swallow retook its liberty; but about six in the evening, it
                     returned into the steerage and cabin, being sensible that we intended it no
                     harm. Having taken another repast of flies, it went out again, and roosted that
                     night somewhere on the outside of the vessel. Early the next morning our
                     swallow returned into the cabin once more, and took its breakfast of flies.
                     Emboldened by the shelter which we afforded it, and the little disturbance it
                     suffered from us, the poor little bird now ventured to enter the ship at every
                     port and scuttle which was open; some parts of the morning it passed very
                     happily in <persName>Mr. Wales's</persName> cabin; but after having left that
                     it entirely disappeared. It is more than probable that it came into the birth
                     of some unfeeling person, who caught it in order to provide a meal for a
                     favourite cat.</p>

                  <p n="93">From the history of this bird, which was of the common species, or a
                     house-swallow (<hi rend="italics">hirundo rustica</hi> Lin.) we may deduce
                     the circumstances that bring solitary land-birds a great way out to sea. It
                     seems to be probable, that they begin with following a ship, from the time she
                     leaves the land; that they are soon lost in the great ocean, and are thus
                     obliged to continue close to the ship, as the only solid mass in this immense
                     fluid expanse. If two or more ships are in company, it is also easy to account
                     for the expression of <hi rend="italics">meeting with</hi> land-birds at a
                     great distance from land; because they may happen to follow some other ship
                     from the shore, than that which carries the observer; thus they may escape
                     observation for a day or two, or perhaps longer, and when noticed, are supposed
                     to be <hi rend="italics">met with</hi> at sea. However, great storms are
                     sometimes known to have driven single birds, nay vast flocks out to sea, which
                     are obliged to seek for rest on board of ships, at considerable distances from
                     any land<ref target="#edn19">
                        <note xml:id="edn19" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Captain Cook</persName> very obligingly communicated to me a
                           fact which confirms the above assertion. Being on board of a ship between
                              <persName>Norway</persName> and <persName>England</persName>, he met
                           with a violent storm, during which a flight of several hundred birds
                           covered the whole rigging of the ship. Among numbers of small birds, he
                           observed several hawks, which lived very luxuriously by preying on those
                           poor defenceless creatures. </note>
                     </ref>. I shall venture another reflection on this incident. In the long
                     solitary hours of an uniform navigation, every little circumstance becomes
                     interesting to the passenger; it is therefore not to be wondered at, if a
                     subject so trifling in itself as putting to death a harmless bird, should
                     affect a heart not yet buffeted into insensibility.</p>

                  <p n="94">
                     <date>[Sunday 23.]</date>On the 23d, several ceraceous fish, from fifteen to
                     twenty feet long passed the ship, directing their course to the N. and N.W.
                     They were supposed to be grampusses, (<hi rend="italics">delphinus
                     orca</hi>). <date>[Tuesday 25.]</date>Two days after the same kind of fish,
                     and a number of lesser ones of a brownish colour, called <hi rend="italics">skip-jacks</hi>, from leaping frequently out of the water, were observed.
                     The wind for several days past had blown from the N.W. and obliged us to take a
                     S.E. course, so that we were now got to the southward of the coast of
                        <placeName>Guinea</placeName>. Several of our navigators, who had frequently
                     crossed the Atlantic, looked upon this as a singular circumstance; and indeed
                     it fairly proves, that though nature in the torrid zone commonly produces
                     regular and constant winds, nevertheless it sometimes deviates even there from
                     general rules, and admits of several exceptions. In this situation we also
                     observed several man-of-war birds, (<hi rend="italics">pelecanus
                        aquilus</hi>). It is a common belief among sailors that their appearance
                     denotes a vicinity of land; but we were at present above a hundred leagues from
                     any shore, so that this opinion seems to have no better support than many old
                     prejudices. Each eradication of one of these is a gain to science; and each
                     vulgar opinion, proved to be erroneous, is an approximation to truth, which
                        <hi rend="italics">alone</hi> is worthy of being recorded for the use of
                     mankind.</p>

                  <p n="95">
                     <date>[1772. September.][Tuesday 1.]</date>On the first of September, several
                     dolphins, (<hi rend="italics">coryphœna hippurus</hi>), were seen; and we
                     likewise took notice of a large fish close to us, perfectly resembling the
                     figure of a fish given in <persName>Willoughby's</persName> Histor. Piscium,
                     appendix pag. 5. tab. 9. f. 3. which is taken from <persName>John
                        Nieuhoff's</persName> account, and which the Dutch call <hi rend="italics">zee-duyvel</hi>, or sea-devil. In its external shape it was similar to
                     the genus of rays, but seems to be a new species; from whence it is evident,
                     that even in the most frequented seas, such as the
                        <placeName>Atlantic</placeName>, many new discoveries in natural history
                     might be made, if those who can distinguish unknown from known objects, had
                     always opportunities of enquiring into them.</p>

                  <p n="96">
                     <date>[Thursday 3.]</date>On the third of September great numbers of
                     flying-fishes were observed, and a bonito (<hi rend="italics">scomber
                        pelamys</hi>) was caught, whose meat we found to be dry and less palatable
                     than it is generally represented. <date>[Saturday 5.]</date>We were lucky
                     enough two days after to take a dolphin (<hi rend="italics">coryphœna
                        hippurus</hi>), which is likewise dry meat; but the inimitable brightness
                     of its colours, which continually change from one rich hue to another whilst it
                     is drying, is, in my opinion, one of the most admirable appearances which can
                     occur to the voyager's view during a tropical navigation.</p>

                  <p n="97">
                     <q>But here description clouds each shining ray;</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="98">
                     <q>What terms of art can Nature's pow'rs display?
                        <persName>Falconer</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="99">A boat was this day hoisted out in order to find the direction of the
                     current, and to determine the temperature of the sea-water at a great depth. We
                     sounded with 250 fathoms without finding any bottom. The thermometer in the air
                     stood at 75 1/2 deg. dipped under the surface of the sea it shewed 74 deg. and
                     after being let down to the depth of 85 fathoms and hauled up again, it was
                     fallen to 66 deg. It staid 30' under water, and was 27 1/2° in hawling up. Our
                     latitude at noon was <geo select="lat">0° 52' n</geo>orth. The boat being out,
                     we had an opportunity of examining that kind of blubber, or sea-nettle, which
                        <persName>Linnӕus</persName> has named <hi rend="italics">medusa
                        pelagica</hi>; together with another submarine animal called <hi rend="italics">doris lœvis</hi>, and employed ourselves in making drawings
                     of them, and more minute descriptions than have hitherto been published.</p>

                  <p n="100">
                     <date>[Wednesday 9.]</date>On the 9th, having passed the line with a light air,
                     our crew ducked such of their shipmates as had never crossed it before, and did
                     not care to redeem themselves by paying a certain forfeit of brandy. Those who
                     had been obliged to undergo the briny submersion, changed their linen and
                     clothes; and as this can never be done too often, especially in warm weather,
                     the ducking proved a salutary operation to them. The quantity of strong
                     liquors, arising from the forfeits of the rest, served to heighten the jovial
                     humour, which is the predominant characteristic of sailors. This day we
                     likewise obtained a southerly wind, which gradually came round to S. by E. and
                     S.S.E. and settled into the usual trade-wind.</p>

                  <p n="101">
                     <date>[Monday 14.]</date>This day we caught several dolphins, and a flying-fish
                     one foot long fell on the quarter-deck. Ever since the 8th we had daily
                     observed several aquatic birds, such as man of war birds, boobies (<hi rend="italics">pelecanus aquilus</hi> &amp; <hi rend="italics">sula</hi>) petrels, gulls, and tropic-birds (<hi rend="italics">phaëton
                        œthereus</hi>). We had also at various intervals, found the sea covered
                     with animal belonging to the class of <hi rend="italics">mollusca</hi>, one
                     of which, of a blue colour, in shape like a snail, with four arms, divided into
                     many branches, was named <hi rend="italics">glaucus atlanticus</hi>;
                     another, transparent like a crystal, and often connected in a long string with
                     individuals of the same species, was referred to the genus named <hi rend="italics">dagysa</hi>, mentioned in <persName>Lieut. Cook's</persName>
                     voyage in the Endeavour<ref target="#edn20">
                        <note xml:id="edn20" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           compilation, vol. II. p. 2. </note>
                     </ref>. Two other species of mollusca, which seamen call <hi rend="italics">sallee</hi>, and <hi rend="italics">Portuguese</hi> men of war, (<hi rend="italics">medusa velella</hi> &amp; <hi rend="italics">holothuria
                        physalis</hi>) likewise appeared about our vessel in great abundance.</p>

                  <p n="102">
                     <date>[Sunday 27.]</date>On the 27th we tried the direction of the currents,
                     and the temperature of the sea again, with nearly the same result as before.
                     The thermometer, which in open air flood at 72 1/2 deg. and under the surface
                     of the sea at 70 deg. after being let down 80 fathom, sunk to 68 deg. It
                     continued 15 min. under water, and was hauled up in 7 min. We likewise took up
                     a new species of the blubber (<hi rend="italics">medusa</hi>). For two days
                     past, we had observed a bird, which we were this day enabled to examine, when
                     we knew it to be the common shear-water (<hi rend="italics">procellaria
                        puffinus</hi>). Having now reached the latitude of twenty-five degrees
                     south, we found the wind gradually coming round from E. by S. to E. by N. and
                     to N.E. which enabled us to steer to the south-eastward. Our bodies, which the
                     heat of the torrid zone had in a great degree relaxed, now began to feel a
                     considerable alteration in the climate, and though the thermometer was not
                     above ten degrees different from what it used to be near the line, yet I
                     contracted a violent cold, attended with the tooth-ach, swelled gums, and
                     cheeks.</p>

                  <p n="103">
                     <date>[1772. October.][Sunday 4.]</date>On the fourth of October, we observed
                     great numbers of the common little petrel, of a sooty brown, with white rumps
                        (<hi rend="italics">procellaria</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">pelagica</hi>), and found the air cold and sharp. The
                     next day the albatross, (<hi rend="italics">diomedea</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">exulans</hi>) and the pintadas (<hi rend="italics">procellaria capensis</hi>), made their first appearance.</p>

                  <p n="104">
                     <date>[Sunday 11.]</date>On the 11th it was mild and almost calm, after several
                     days of hazy and squally weather, which had probably sharpened the appetite of
                     the sea birds, and especially the pintadas; for these last eagerly swallowed
                     hooks baited with pieces of pork or mutton, and no less than eight of them were
                     caught in a short time. In the evening we observed an eclipse of the moon, of
                     which the end at a medium happened at <time>6h. 58' 45'' p. m.</time> our
                     latitude at noon being <geo select="lat">34° 45' s</geo>outh.</p>

                  <p n="105">The next day we tried the current and the temperature of the sea a
                     third time. We let down the thermometer 100 fathoms, where it continued 20 min.
                     was hauled up in 7 min. more, and then shewed 58 deg. At the surface it stood
                     at 59 deg. and in the air at 60 deg. It being calm, we employed ourselves in
                     the boat with shooting sea-fowl; among which were a small tern, a shear-water,
                     a new species of albatross, and a new petrel: Several animals of the
                     mullusca-tribe likewise came within our reach, together with the <hi rend="italics">helix janthina</hi>, a violet-coloured shell, remarkable for
                     the extreme thinness of its texture, which breaks with the least pressure, and
                     seems therefore entirely calculated to keep the open sea, or at least to shun
                     rocky shores<ref target="#edn21">
                        <note xml:id="edn21" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           Compilation, vol. II. p. 14. We find another remark at the end of that
                           above quoted, which is of very different value, and seems to indicate
                           that the ancient authors were not consulted. Whoever has looked into
                           Pliny, can never have the least idea that the thin shell afore-mentioned
                           could be " <hi rend="italics">the purpura</hi> of the ancients." They
                           had several kinds of shells, which yielded the purple dye, but these were
                           all rock-shells. <hi rend="italics">Earum genera plura, pabulo et</hi>
                           solo <hi rend="italics">disoreta</hi>, lib. ix. cap. 61. <hi rend="italics">Exquiruntur omnes</hi> scopuli <hi rend="italics">gœtuli muricibus ac purpuris</hi>, lib. v. cap. I. It is equally
                           clear and uncontrovertible that the figure and hardness of their purple
                           shells were very different from those of the little<hi rend="italics">
                              helix janthina</hi>. Purpura <hi rend="italics">vocatur,
                              cuniculatim procurrente rostro et cuniculi latere introrsus tubulato
                              qua proferatur lingua</hi>, lib. ix. cap. 61 - <hi rend="italics">Lingua purpurœ longitudine digitalis quӕ pascitur, perforando reliqua
                              conchylia, tanta</hi> duritia <hi rend="italics">aculeo est</hi>,
                           lib. ix. cap. 60 - <hi rend="italics">Prœterea clavatum est ad turbinem
                              usque aculeis in orbem septenis sere</hi>, lib. ix. cap. 61. Don
                           Antonio Ulloa, in his voyage to <placeName>South-America</placeName>,
                           book IV. chap. 8. may be consulted on the subject. </note>
                     </ref>, agreeably to the observation in <persName>Lieutenant Cook's</persName>
                     voyage in the Endeavour. Albatrosses, pintadas, and petrels of all kinds,
                     amongst which was also the fulmar, (<hi rend="italics">procellaria
                        glacialis</hi>), were now daily observed.</p>

                  <p n="106">On the <date>17th</date>, we had an alarm that one of our crew was
                     overboard, upon which we immediately put about, but seeing nothing, the names
                     of all persons on board the vessel were called over, and none found missing, to
                     our great satisfaction. Our friends on board the Adventure, whom we visited a
                     few days after, told us they had indeed suspected by our manoeuvre, the
                     accident which we had apprehended, but that looking out on the sea,
                        <persName>Capt. Furneaux</persName> had plainly observed a sea-lion, that
                     had been the cause of this false alarm.</p>

                  <p n="107">
                     <date>[Monday 19.]</date>On the <date>19th</date> we had a great southern
                     swell, and saw a large whale, and likewise a fish of the shark genus, of a
                     whitish colour, with two dorsal-fins, and its length about eighteen or twenty
                     feet. As we had been a considerable time at sea, the Captain had for some weeks
                     past ordered sour-krout (or cabbage sliced and fermented) to be regularly
                     served to the crew, at a pint per man on meat-days, which was four times a
                     week. The Lords of the Admiralty, attentive to every circumstance which bids
                     fair to preserve the health of seafaring men, had ordered a very considerable
                     quantity of this salutary and palatable food to be put on board both of the
                     ships, and the event has proved that it is one of the best prophylactics
                     against the sea-scurvy.</p>

                  <p n="108">
                     <date>[Saturday 24.]</date>On the 24th, the Adventure being a great way astern,
                     the captain ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and several officers and other
                     gentlemen went a shooting, which gave us a fresh opportunity of examining the
                     two sorts of albatrosses, and a large black species of shear-water, (<hi rend="italics">procellaria œquinoctialis</hi>). Our navigation, which for
                     nine weeks past had been out of sight of any land, began to appear dull and
                     tedious, and seemed to be distressing to many who were not used to an uniform
                     recluse life on board a ship, without any refreshments or variety of scenes. We
                     should have found this long passage equally disagreeable, if it had not
                     supplied us with employment from time to time, and nursed the hope of making
                     many interesting discoveries relative to the science of nature.</p>

                  <p n="109">
                     <date>[Thursday 29.]</date>On the 29th, early in the morning, we discovered the
                     land of the extremity of <placeName>Africa</placeName>, covered with clouds and
                     fog; and several gannets and small diving-petrels, together with some wild
                     ducks, came out to sea from thence. Soon after the land disappeared entirely,
                     and we could not see it again till <time>three o'clock in the afternoon</time>,
                     when its parts were much plainer, though the clouds still involved them. The
                     wind blowing fresh, and the Adventure being a great way a-stern, we could not
                     venture to get into the Table bay during night, but stood off and on till the
                     next morning, having thick squally weather, and heavy showers of rain.</p>

                  <p n="110">The night was scarcely begun, when the water all round us afforded the
                     most grand and astonishing sight than can be imagined. As far as we could see
                     the whole ocean seemed to be in a blaze. Every breaking wave had its summit
                     illuminated by a light similar to that of phosphorus, and the sides of the
                     vessel, coming in contact with the sea, were strongly marked by a luminous
                     line. Great bodies of light moved in the water along our side, sometimes
                     slower, sometimes quicker; now in the same direction with our course, now
                     flying off from it; sometimes we could clearly distinguish their shape to be
                     that of fishes, which when they approached any smaller ones, forced these to
                     hasten away from them. Desirous of enquiring into the cause of this astonishing
                     phӕnomenon, we procured a bucket full of the illumined sea-water. The most
                     accurate attention to it proved, that innumerable minute sparks, of a round
                     shape, communicated this luminous appearance to the water, and moved about in
                     it with great briskness and velocity. After the water had been standing for a
                     little while, the number of sparks seemed to decrease; but on being stirred
                     again, the whole became as luminous as before. Again, as the water gradually
                     subsided the sparks were observed to move in directions contrary to the
                     undulations of the water, which they did not before, whilst the agitation was
                     more violent, and seemed to carry them along with its own motions. We suspended
                     the bucket, to prevent its being too much affected by the motion of the ship;
                     the bright objects by this means betrayed more and more a voluntary motion,
                     independent of the agitation of the water caused by our hands, or by the
                     rolling of the vessel. The luminous appearance always gradually subsided, but
                     on the least agitation of the water, the sparkling was renewed, in proportion
                     as the motion was encreased. As I stirred the water with my hand, one of the
                     luminous sparks adhered to my finger. We examined it by the common magnifier of
                        <persName>Mr. Ramsden's</persName> improved microscope, and found it to be
                     globular, transparent like a gelatinous substance, and somewhat brownish: by
                     the greatest magnifier we discovered the orifice of a little tube, which
                     entered the body of this little atom, within which were four or five intestine
                     bags connected with the tube. Having examined several of them, which had much
                     the same appearance, I endeavoured to catch some in water, and bring them under
                     the microscope in a concave glass, where its nature and organs might be better
                     examined: but these minute objects were always hurt with our touch before we
                     could place them in the concave g lass, and when dead only appeared as an
                     indistinct mass of floating filaments. In about two hours time the water had
                     lost its luminous appearance. We had another bucket full of it drawn before
                     that time, but all our attempts to catch one of the little atoms in the glass
                     proved ineffectual. Accordingly we hastened to draw the appearance of the first
                     globule, and to write down our observations. The most probable conjecture which
                     we could form concerning these little atomical animalcules was, that they might
                     be the young fry of some species of medusa or blubber, though it may likewise
                     be possible, that they are beings of a distinct genus.</p>

                  <p n="111">There was a singularity, and a grandeur in the display of this
                     phӕnomenon, which could not fail of giving occupation to the mind, and striking
                     it with a reverential awe, due to Omnipotence. The ocean covered to a great
                     extent, with myriads of animalcules; these little being, organized alive,
                     endowed with locomotive power, a quality of shining whenever they please, of
                     illiminating every body with which they come in contact, and of laying aside
                     their luminous appearance at pleasure: all these ideas crouded upon us, and
                     bade us admire the Creator, even in his minutest works. It is the natural fault
                     of young people to think too well of mankind; but I hope I shall not have
                     formed too favourable an opinion of my readers, if I expect that the generality
                     will sympathize with me in these feelings, and that none will be found ignorant
                     or depraved enough to despise them.</p>

                  <p n="112">
                     <q>Turrigeros elephantorum miramur humeros, taurorumque colla et truces in
                        sublimejactus, tigrium rapinas, leonum jubas; quum rerum natura nusquam
                        magis, quam in minimis tota sit. Quapropter quӕso, ne nostra legentes,
                        quoniam ex his spernent multa, etiam relata fastidio damnent, quum in
                        contemplatione Naturӕ nihil possit videri vacaneum. Plin. Hist. Nat. lib.
                        xi. cap. 2.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="113">The next morning, after a very rainy night, we sailed into Table bay.
                     The mountains at the bottom of it, now appeared clear of clouds, and surprised
                     us with their prodigious craggy, steep, and barren appearance. As we advanced
                     farther into the bay, we discovered the town at the foot of the black Table
                     mountain, and soon came to an anchor. After saluting the fort, and receiving
                     the visit of several officers in the service of the Dutch East-India company,
                     we went on shore with captains <persName>Cook</persName> and
                        <persName>Furneaux</persName>, being prepared to meet with many new
                     acquisitions to science, on a continent so distant from our own, and situated
                     in an opposite hemisphere.</p>

               </div>
               <div n="3" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. III.<lb/>
                     Stay at the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>. - Account of that
                        Settlement.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="114">
                     <date>[1772. October.]</date>We were no sooner landed than we all went to wait
                     upon the governor, baron <persName>Joachim van Plettenberg</persName>, a man of
                     a very liberal education, and extensive knowledge, whose politeness and
                     affability immediately gave us a good opinion of him. From him we proceeded to
                     the other members of the council, and at last retired to take up our lodgings
                     at <persName>Mr. Brand's</persName> now commander at <placeName>False
                        bay</placeName>, whose house at the <placeName>Cape town</placeName> is
                     commonly frequented by the English captains who happen to touch there. Almost
                     every inferior officer of the Dutch Company's government, the members of the
                     council excepted, let their supernumerary apartments to the officers and
                     passengers in the various English, French, Danish, and Swedish ships, which
                     annually put in here, either on their voyage from or back to
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="115">We were not a little pleased with the contrast between this colony, and
                     the Portuguese island of <placeName>St. Jago</placeName>. There we had taken
                     notice of a tropical country, with a tolerable appearance, and capable of
                     improvement, but utterly neglected by its lazy and oppressed inhabitants; here,
                     on the contrary, we saw a neat well-built town, all white, rising in the midst
                     of a desart, surrounded by broken masses of black and dreary mountains; or in
                     other words, the picture of successful industry. Its appearance towards the
                     sea-side, is not quite so picturesque as that of
                     <placeName>Funchal</placeName>. The store-houses of the Dutch East-India
                     company, are all situated nearest the water, and the private buildings lie
                     beyond them on a gentle ascent. The fort which commands the road, is on the
                     east side of the town, but seems not to be of great strength; besides which,
                     there are several batteries on both sides. The streets in the town are broad,
                     and regular; all the principal ones are planted with oaks, and some have in
                     their middle a canal of running water, which on account of its small quantity,
                     they are obliged to husband by sluices, so that parts of it are sometimes
                     entirely drained, and occasion no very pleasant smell. The national character
                     of the Dutch strongly manifests itself in this particular; their settlements
                     being always supplied with canals, though reason and common sense evidently
                     prove their noxious influence on the health of the inhabitants, especially at
                        <placeName>Batavia</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="116">
                     <q>
                        <l>Quanto prӕstantius esset</l>
                        <l> -viridi si margine clauderet undas</l>
                        <l> Herba, nec ingenuum violarent marmora tophum!</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="117">
                     <q>
                        <persName>Juvenal</persName>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="118">The houses are built of brick, and many of them are white washed on the
                     outside. The rooms are in general lofty and spacious, and very airy, which the
                     hot climate requires. There is but one church in the whole town, and that is
                     extremely plain, and seems to be rather too small for the congregation. That
                     spirit of toleration, which has been so beneficial to the Dutch government at
                     home, is not to be met with in their colonies. It is but very lately that they
                     have suffered even the Lutherans, to build churches at
                        <placeName>Batavia</placeName>, and at this place; and at the present time,
                     a clergyman of that persuasion is not tolerated at the Cape, but the
                     inhabitants are obliged to content themselves with the chaplains of Danish and
                     Swedish East-India-men, who give them a sermon, and administer the sacrament
                     once or twice a year, and are very handsomely rewarded. The government, and the
                     inhabitants do not give themselves the trouble to attend to a circumstance of
                     so little consequence in their eyes, as the religion of their slaves, who in
                     general seem to have none at all. A few of them follow the Mahommedan rite, and
                     weekly meet in a private house belonging to a free Mahomedan, in order to read,
                     or rather chaunt several prayers, and chapters of the Koran. As they have no
                     priest among them, they cannot partake of any other acts of worship<ref target="#edn22">
                        <note xml:id="edn22" anchored="true"> We would not be understood to throw an
                           odium on the Dutch in particular, when it is well known that the negroes,
                           who wear the chains of the English and French, are equally neglected: it
                           was only intended to awaken a fellow-feeling towards an unhappy race of
                           men, among the colonists of all nations; and to remind them whilst they
                           enjoy, or <hi rend="italics">strive</hi> to enjoy the inestimable
                           blessing of liberty, to exert themselves in acts of humanity and
                           kindness, towards those from whom they with-hold it, perhaps, without
                           remorse. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="119">The slaves belonging to the company, who amount to several hundreds,
                     are lodged and boarded in a spacious house erected for that purpose, where they
                     are likewise kept at work. Another great building serves as an hospital for the
                     sailors belonging to the Dutch East-India ships, which touch here, and commonly
                     have prodigious numbers of sick on board, on their voyage from
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName> towards <placeName>India</placeName>. The vast
                     number of men, sometimes six, seven, or eight hundred, which these ships carry
                     out to supply the military in <placeName>India</placeName>, the small room to
                     which they are confined, and the short allowance of water and salt provision,
                     they receive on a long voyage through the torrid zone, generally make
                     considerable havock among them: it is therefore no uncommon circumstance at the
                     Cape, that a ship on her passage thither from <placeName>Europe</placeName>,
                     loses eighty or a hundred men, and sends between two and three hundred others
                     dangerously ill to the hospital. A fact no less deplorable than certain, is,
                     that the small expence and facility with which the <hi rend="italics">ziel-verkoopers</hi> actually carry on their infamous trade of supplying
                     the India company with recruits, makes them less attentive to the preservation
                     of health among these poor people. Nothing is more common, in this and other
                     Dutch colonies, than to meet with soldiers in the company's service who, upon
                     enquiry, acknowledge they have been kidnapped in
                     <placeName>Holland</placeName>. There is an apothecary's shop belonging to the
                     hospital, where the most necessary remedies are prepared, but no expensive drug
                     is to be found in it, and the method of administering to all the patients
                     indiscriminately out of two or three huge bottles, full of different
                     preparations, suffice to convince us, that the fresh air of the land, and fresh
                     provisions here, contribute much more to the recovery of the sick, than the
                     skill of their physicians. Patients who are able to walk, are ordered to go up
                     and down the streets every fair morning; and all kinds of greens, pot-herbs,
                     sallads, and antiscorbutics are raised for their use in an adjacent garden
                     belonging to the company. Travellers have sometimes praised and sometimes
                     depreciated this garden, according to the different points of view in which it
                     has been considered. It is true, a few regular walks of indifferent oaks,
                     encompassed with elm and myrtle hedges, are not objects engaging enough to
                     those who are used to admire the perfection of gardening in
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, or who contemplate in
                        <placeName>Holland</placeName> and <placeName>France</placeName> cypress,
                     box, and yew trees cut out into vases, statues, and pyramids, or <hi rend="italics">charmilles</hi> turned into pieces of architecture!
                        <date>[1772. November.]</date>But considering that the trees were planted in
                     the beginning of this century, more for use than ornament; that they shelter
                     the kitchen-herbs for the hospital, against the destructive violence of storms;
                     and that they form the only shady and airy walks, comfortable to voyagers and
                     sick persons in this hot climate, I cannot wonder that some should extoll as "
                     a delightful spot<ref target="#edn23">
                        <note xml:id="edn23" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Commodore (now admiral) Byron</persName>. See
                              <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> compilation, vol. I. </note>
                     </ref>," what others contemptuously call " a friar's garden<ref target="#edn24">
                        <note xml:id="edn24" anchored="true">
                           <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>. See his <hi rend="italics">Voyage round the World</hi>. </note>
                     </ref>." </p>

                  <p n="120">
                     <date>[Saturday l.]</date>The day after our arrival, the astronomers of both
                     ships, <persName>Mr. Wales</persName> and <persName>Mr. Baily</persName>, fixed
                     their instruments ashore, within a few yards of the identical spot where
                     Messrs. <persName>Mason</persName> and <persName>Dixon</persName> had formerly
                     made their astronomical observations. The same day we began our botanical
                     excursions in the country about the town. The ground gradually rises on all
                     sides towards the three mountains which lie round the bottom of the bay,
                     keeping low and level only near the sea-side, and growing somewhat marshy in
                     the isthmus between the <placeName>False and Table bays</placeName>, where a
                     salt rivulet falls into the latter. The marshy part has some verdure, but is
                     intermixed with a great deal of sand. The higher grounds, which from the sea
                     side have a parched and dreary appearance, are however covered with an immense
                     variety of plants, amongst which are a prodigious number of shrubs, but scarce
                     one or two species that deserve the name of trees. There are also a few small
                     plantations wherever a little run of water moistens the ground. Abundance of
                     insects of every sort, several species of lizards, land-tortoises, and serpents
                     frequent the dry shrubbery, together with a great variety of small birds. We
                     daily brought home ample collections of vegetables and animals, and were much
                     surprised to find a great number, especially among the latter, entirely unknown
                     to natural historians, though gathered in fields adjacent to a town, from
                     whence the cabinets and repositories of all Europe have been repeatedly
                     supplied with numerous and valuable acquisitions to the science.</p>

                  <p n="121">One of our excursions was directed to the Table mountain. The ascent
                     was very steep, fatiguing, and difficult, on account of the number of loose
                     stones which rolled away under our feet. About the middle of the mountain we
                     entered a bold grand chasm, whose walls are perpendicular and often impending
                     rocks, piled up in strata. Small rills of water oozed out of crevices, or fell
                     from precipices in drops, given life to hundreds of plants and low shrubs in
                     the chasm. Another kind of vegetables, growing on a drier soil, that seemed to
                     concentrate their juices, spread a fine aromatic scent, which a gentle breeze
                     wafted towards us from the chasm. At last, after three hours walk, we reached
                     the summit of the mountain. It was nearly level, very barren, and bare of soil;
                     several cavities were however replete with rain-water, or contained a little
                     vegetable earth, from whence a few odoriferous plants drew their nourishment.
                     Some antelopes, howling baboons, solitary vultures, and toads are sometimes to
                     be met with on the mountain. The view from thence is very extensive and
                     picturesque. The bay seemed a small pond or bason, and the ships in it dwindled
                     to little boats: the town under our feet, and the regular compartments of its
                     gardens, looked like the work of children. <placeName>The Lion's
                        Rump</placeName> now seemed an inconsiderable ridge; we looked down on the
                     spiry <placeName>Lion's Head</placeName>, and only <placeName>Charles'
                        Mount</placeName> rose as it were in competition with the Table. To the
                     northward, <placeName>Robben island</placeName>, <placeName>the Blue
                        hills</placeName>, <placeName>the Tyger hills</placeName>, and beyond them a
                     noble chain of mountains, loftier than that on which we stood, bounded our
                     view. A group of broken rocky masses inclosed <placeName>Hout baay (Wood
                        bay)</placeName> to the west, and continuing to the southward formed one
                     side of the <placeName>Table bay</placeName>, and terminated in the famous
                        <hi rend="italics">stormy</hi> cape which <persName>king
                        Manoel</persName> of <placeName>Portugal</placeName> named the
                        <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>. To the south-east our view
                     extended across the low isthmus between the two bays; beyond it we discerned
                     the colony of <placeName>Hottentot Holland</placeName>, and the mountains about
                        <placeName>Stellenbosch</placeName>; and on this side we were delighted with
                     a number of plantations insulated by the vast heath, and finely contrasting
                     their verdure with the rest of the country: Among them we distinguished
                     Constantia, famous in the annals of modern epicures. After a stay of two hours,
                     finding the air very cold and sharp on the mountain, we descended, very well
                     pleased with our excursion, and amply rewarded for the toilsome part of it, by
                     the beauty and extent of the prospect.</p>

                  <p n="122">The country on the S.E. side of the <placeName>Table
                        mountain</placeName> attracted our particular attention, on account of the
                     number of plantations on the sloping grounds, and the variety of plants which
                     that part produced. Its appearance, especially near the hills, is the
                     pleasantest on this side of the isthmus. By the side of every little rivulet a
                     plantation is situated, consisting of vineyards, corn-fields, and gardens, and
                     commonly surrounded with oaks from ten to twenty feet high, which enlived the
                     country, and afford shelter against storms. The late governor
                        <persName>Tulbagh</persName>, who is looked upon as a father to this colony,
                     rebuilt several houses and gardens here, for the use of the governors, at
                        <placeName>Rondebosch</placeName> and <placeName>Nieuw-land</placeName>.
                     They are plain, and have nothing particular to recommend them, but that they
                     are kept in the best order, consist of shady walks, and are well supplied with
                     water. The company's granges or sheds are also erected hereabouts; and a little
                     farther on there is a brewery, belonging to a private man, who has the
                     exclusive privilege of brewing beer for the Cape. In a fine valley, on the side
                     of the mountain, lies the plantation called <placeName>Paradise</placeName>,
                     remarkable for its delightful grove, and for producing several fruits,
                     especially such as belong to tropical climates, which come to great perfection
                     there. <placeName>Alphen</placeName>, the seat of <persName>Mr.
                        Kerste</persName>, (at that time commander in <placeName>False
                        bay</placeName>) was the boundary of our excursions on this side. We were
                     here received with real hospitality, which our worthy host had brought from
                        <placeName>Germany</placeName>, his native country. During a few days it was
                     the centre of our botanical rambles, which always furnished us with an abundant
                     harvest, and gave us the greatest apprehensions that with all our efforts, we
                     alone would be unequal to the task of collecting, describing, drawing, and
                     preserving (all at the same time) such multitudes of species, in countries
                     where every one we gathered would in all probability be a non-descript. It was
                     therefore of the utmost importance, if we meant not to neglect any branch of
                     natural knowledge, to endeavour to find an assistant well qualified to go hand
                     and hand with us in our undertakings. We were fortunate enough to meet with a
                     man of science, <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, at this place, who after
                     studying under the father of botany, the great <persName>Sir Charles
                        Linné</persName>, had made a voyage to <placeName>China</placeName>, and
                     another to the Cape in pursuit of knowledge. The idea of gathering the
                     treasures of nature in countries hitherto unknown to
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, filled his mind so entirely, that he
                     immediately engaged to accompany us on our circumnavigation; in the course of
                     which, I am proud to say, we have found him an enthusiast in his science, well
                     versed in medical knowledge, and endowed with a heart capable of the warmest
                     feelings, and worthy of a philosopher. But far from meeting with such great
                     discoveries in natural history, as had been made in <persName>Lieut.
                        Cook's</persName> first voyage on a new continent<ref target="#edn25">
                        <note xml:id="edn25" anchored="true">
                           <placeName>New Holland</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>, we were obliged to content ourselves with the produce of a few small
                     islands, which we could imperfectly investigate in the short spaces of
                     sometimes a few hours, or a few days, or to the utmost of a few weeks, in
                     unfavourable seasons.</p>

                  <p n="123">During our stay at the Cape, the people on board our ship set up the
                     rigging, scrubbed and payed the sides, and took in store some brandy and other
                     necessary articles of provision for the crew, together with several sheep for
                     the captains and officers. Several rams and ewes were likewise brought aboard,
                     intended as presents to the natives of the South-Sea; but the length of the
                     voyage, and our run to the frozen zone, reduced them so much, that this useful
                     purpose was entirely defeated. In order to pursue our researches after natural
                     knowledge, with greater certainty of success, we likewise bought a
                     water-spaniel here, in hopes that this animal would prove useful in fetching
                     any game which fell out of our reach. It was with great difficulty we could
                     meet with one, and we were obliged to pay an exhorbitant price for it; though
                     it afterwards proved of little service. It may seem superfluous to mention so
                     trifling an occurrence as this, but I believe it is hardly imagined, how great
                     a number of little objects are to be attended to among many weightier concerns,
                     by a traveller who means to improve his time to the utmost advantage.</p>

                  <p n="124">On the <date>22d</date> we brought all our baggage on board, and the
                     same day we sailed from <placeName>Table bay</placeName>. Previous to the
                     mention of farther occurrences, I shall here endeavour to give a succinct
                     account of the state of this Dutch colony, which it is hoped will afford
                     satisfactory instruction to my readers.</p>

                  <p n="125">The southermost extremity of <placeName>Africa</placeName>
                     circumnavigated so early as the times of the Egyptian <persName>king
                        Necho</persName>, and again in the reign of <persName>Ptolemӕus Lathyrus<ref target="#edn26">
                           <note xml:id="edn26" anchored="true"> The proofs of this assertion are
                              enumerated in Schmidt <hi rend="italics">Opusc. diff</hi>. iv.
                                 <hi rend="italics">de commerc. &amp; navigation</hi>. <hi rend="italics">Aegyptior</hi>. p.160. and more fully in Schlözer
                                 <hi rend="italics">Handlungs Geschichte</hi> (or <hi rend="italics">History of Commerce</hi>) p.300. Herodotus
                              expressly says, that <placeName>Africa</placeName> is surrounded by
                              the sea, and that this was found out by some Phœnician mariners sent
                              out for that purpose by <persName>Pharaoh Necho</persName> from the
                                 <placeName>Red Sea</placeName>, who returned by the
                                 <placeName>Mediterranean</placeName>. lib. iv. cap. 42. Strabo,
                              lib. ii. also mentions the expedition of one Eudoxus round
                                 <placeName>Africa</placeName>, in the reign of <persName>Ptolemy
                                 Lathyrus</persName>; and according to <persName>Pliny</persName>,
                              the Carthaginians likewise have explored the coast of that continent.
                              Hist. Nat. lib. ii. cap. 67. <hi rend="italics">Et Hanno, Carthaginis
                                 potentia florente, circumvectus a Gadibus ad sinem Arabiœ,
                                 navigationem eam prodidit scripto</hi>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, was once more discovered in later times, by <persName>Bartolemeo
                        Diaz</persName>, a Portuguese navigator, in the year 1487. <persName>Vasco
                        de Gama</persName> was the first who made a voyage to
                        <placeName>India</placeName> round it in 1497, which was looked upon as a
                     kind of prodigy. It remained however useless to Europeans till the year 1650,
                     when <persName>Van-Riebeck</persName>, a Dutch surgeon, first saw the advantage
                     that would accrue to the East-India Company in <placeName>Holland</placeName>,
                     from a settlement at so convenient a distance both from home and from
                        <placeName>India</placeName>. The colony which he founded, has ever since
                     continued in the hands of the Dutch, and increased in value for a considerable
                     time after his decease.</p>

                  <p n="126">The governor depends immediately upon the East-India Company, and has
                     the rank of an <hi rend="italics">Edele Heer</hi>, the title given to the
                     members of the supreme council of <placeName>Batavia</placeName>. He presides
                     here over a council consisting of the second, or deputy governor, the fiscal,
                     the major (who commands the fort), the secretary, the treasurer, the
                     comptroller of provisions, the comptroller of liquors, and the book-keeper;
                     each of which has a branch of the Company's commerce assigned to his care. This
                     council has the whole management of the civil and military departments, but the
                     deputy-governor presides over another, named the court of justice, which tries
                     all offences and crimes, and consists of some of the members of the former; but
                     no two relations can fit and have vote in the same council, to prevent the
                     influence of parties.</p>

                  <p n="127">The income of the governor is very considerable, for besides a fixed
                     appointment, and the use of houses, gardens, proper furniture, and every thing
                     that belongs to his table, he receives about ten dollars for every leagre of
                     wine which the Company buy of the farmer, in order to be exported to
                        <placeName>Batavia</placeName>. The company allows the sum of forty dollars
                     for each leagre, of which the farmer receives but twenty-four; what remains is
                     shared between the governor, and second or deputy, the former taking two
                     thirds, which sometimes are said to amount to 4000 dollars per annum. The
                     second governor has the direction of the company's whole commerce here, and
                     signs all orders to the different departments under him, as well as the
                     governor to others. He and the fiscal have the rank of <hi rend="italics">upper koopman</hi>. The fiscal is at the head of the police, and sees the
                     penal laws put in execution; his income consists of fines, and of the duties
                     laid on certain articles of commerce, but if he be strict in exacting them, he
                     is universally detested. The found policy of the Dutch have likewise found it
                     necessary to place the fiscal as a check, to over-awe the other officers of the
                     company, that they may not counteract the interests of their masters, or
                     infringe the laws of the mother country. He is to that end, commonly well
                     versed in juridical affairs, and depends solely upon the mother country. The
                     major (at present <persName>Mr. Von Prehn</persName>, who received us with
                     great politeness) has the rank of <hi rend="italics">koopman</hi> or
                     merchant: this circumstance surprises a stranger, who in all other European
                     states, is used to see military honours confer distinction and precedence, and
                     appears still more singular to one who knows the contrast in this particular
                     between <placeName>Holland</placeName> and <placeName>Russia</placeName>, where
                     the idea of military rank is annexed to every place, even that of a professor
                     at the university. The number of regular soldiers at this colony amounts to
                     about 700, of which 400 form the garrison of the fort, near the <placeName>Cape
                        town</placeName>. The inhabitants capable of bearing arms form a militia of
                     4000 men, of whom a considerable part may be assembled in a few hours, by means
                     of signals made from alarm places in different parts of the country. We may
                     from hence make some estimate of the number of white people in this colony,
                     which is at present so extensive, that the distant settlements are above a
                     month's journey from the Cape; but these remote parts lie sometimes more than a
                     day's journey from each other, are surrounded by various nations of Hottentots,
                     and too frequently feel the want of protection from their own government at
                     that distance. The slaves in the colony are at least in the proportion of five
                     or more, to one white person. The principal inhabitants at the Cape have
                     sometimes from 20 to 30 slaves, which are in general treated with great lenity,
                     and sometimes become favourites with their masters, who give them very good
                     cloathing, but oblige them to wear neither shoes nor stockings, reserving these
                     articles to themselves. The slaves are chiefly brought from Madagascar, and a
                     little vessel annually goes from the Cape thither on that trade; there are
                     however, besides them, a number of Malays and Bengalese, and some negroes. The
                     colonists themselves are for the greatest part Germans, with some families of
                     Dutch, and some of French protestants. The character of the inhabitants of the
                     town is mixed. They are industrious, but fond of good living, hospitable, and
                     sociable; though accustomed to hire their apartments to strangers<ref target="#edn27">
                        <note xml:id="edn27" anchored="true"> The terms are mentioned in
                              <persName>Lieut. Cook's Voyage</persName>. See
                              <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> compilation, vol. III. p. 788. The
                           members of the council are an exception in this respect. </note>
                     </ref>, for the time they touch at this settlement, and used to be complimented
                     with rich presents of stuffs, &amp;c. by the officers of merchant ships. They
                     have no great opportunities of acquiring knowledge, there being no public
                     schools of note at the Cape; their young men are therefore commonly sent to
                        <placeName>Holland</placeName> for improvement, and their female education
                     is too much neglected. A kind of dislike to reading, and the want of public
                     amusements, make their conversation uninteresting and too frequently turn it
                     upon scandal, which is commonly carried to a degree of inveteracy peculiar to
                     little towns. The French, English, Portuguese, and Malay languages are very
                     commonly spoken, and many of the ladies have acquired them. This circumstance,
                     together with the accomplishments of singing, dancing, and playing a tune on
                     the lute, frequently united in an agreeable person, make amends for the want of
                     refined manners and delicacy of sentiment. There are however among the
                     principal inhabitants, persons of both sexes, whose whole deportment, extensive
                     reading, and well-cultivated understanding would be admired and distinguished
                     even in Europe<ref target="#edn28">
                        <note xml:id="edn28" anchored="true"> Among them we cannot in justice avoid
                           mentioning the governor, <persName>Baron Joachim von
                              Plettenberg</persName>, a gentleman whose hospitality and affability
                           do great honour to him and his nation; <persName>Mr. Hemmy</persName>,
                           second governor, and his family; <persName>Mr. Von Prehn</persName>, the
                           major; <persName>Mr. Bergh</persName> the secretary, a man of science, of
                           a noble, philosophic turn of mind, with a family who distinguish
                           themselves in every mental and bodily accomplishment, above the whole
                           rising generation of the Cape; <persName>Mr. Kerste</persName>,
                              <persName>Mr de Wit</persName>, and our worthy host <persName>Mr.
                              Christophel Brand</persName>, commander of the Post at
                              <placeName>False Bay</placeName>, with all their families. It is a
                           real satisfaction to perpetuate the memory of valuable members of
                           society, and friends to mankind. </note>
                     </ref>. Their circumstances are in general easy, and often very affluent, on
                     account of the cheap rate at which the necessaries of life are to be procured;
                     but they seldom amass such prodigious riches here as at
                        <placeName>Batavia</placeName>, and I was told the greatest private fortune
                     at the Cape did not exceed one hundred thousand dollars, or about twenty-two
                     thousand five hundred pounds sterling.</p>

                  <p n="128">The farmers in the country are very plain hospitable people; but those
                     who dwell in the remotest settlements seldom come to town, and are said to be
                     very ignorant; this may easily be conceived, because they have no better
                     company than Hottentots, their dwellings being often several days journey
                     asunder, which must in a great measure preclude all intercourse. The vine is
                     cultivated in plantations within the compass of a few days journey from the
                     town; which were established by the first colonists, and of which the ground
                     was given in perpetual property to them and their heirs. The company at present
                     never part with the property of the ground, but let the surface to the farmer
                     for an annual rent, which, though extremely moderate, being only twenty-five
                     dollars for sixty acres<ref target="#edn29">
                        <note xml:id="edn29" anchored="true"> Each acre of six hundred and sixty-six
                           square Rhynland roods, the rood of twelve feet. The proportion of the
                           Rhynland foot to the English is about one hundred and sixteen to one
                           hundred and twenty. </note>
                     </ref>, yet does not give sufficient encouragement to plant vineyards. The
                     distant settlements therefore chiefly raise corn and rear cattle; nay many of
                     the settlers entirely follow the latter branch of rustick employment, and some
                     have very numerous flocks. We were told there were two farmers who had each
                     fifteen thousand sheep, and oxen in proportion; and several who possessed six
                     or eight thousand sheep, of which they drive great droves to town every year;
                     but lions and buffaloes, and the fatigue of the journey, destroy numbers of
                     their cattle before they can bring them so far. They commonly take their
                     families with them in large waggons covered with linen or leather, spread over
                     hoops, and drawn by eight, ten, and sometimes twelve pair of oxen. They bring
                     butter, mutton-tallow, the flesh and skins of sea-cows (hippopotamus), together
                     with lion and rhinoceros' skins, to fell. They have several slaves, and
                     commonly engage in their service several Hottentots of the poorer sort, and (as
                     we were told) of the tribe called Boschemans or Bushmen, who have no cattle of
                     their own, but commonly subsist by hunting or by committing depredations on
                     their neighbours. The opulent farmers set up a young beginner by intrusting to
                     his care a flock of four or five hundred sheep, which he leads to a distant
                     spot, where he finds plenty of good grass and water; the one half of all the
                     lambs which are yeaned fall to his share, by which means he soon becomes as
                     rich as his benefactor.</p>

                  <p n="129">Though the Dutch company seem evidently to discourage all new settlers,
                     by granting no lands in private property, yet the products of the country have
                     of late years sufficed not only to supply the <placeName>Isles of France and
                        Bourbon</placeName> with corn, but likewise to furnish the mother country
                     with several ship loads. These exports would certainly be made at an easier
                     rate than at present, if the settlements did not extend so far into the
                     country, from whence the products must be brought to the <placeName>Table
                        bay</placeName> by land carriage, on roads which are almost impassable. The
                     intermediate spaces of uncultivated land between the different settlements are
                     very extensive, and contain many spots fit for agriculture; but one of the
                     chief reasons why the colonists are so much divided and scattered throughout
                     the country, is to be met with in another regulation of the company, which
                     forbids every new settler to establish himself within a mile of another. It is
                     evident that if this settlement were in the hands of the commonwealth, it would
                     have attained to a great population, and a degree of opulence and splendor, of
                     which it has not the least hopes at present: But a private company of
                     East-India merchants find their account much better in keeping all the landed
                     property to themselves, and tying down the colonist, left he should become too
                     great and powerful.</p>

                  <p n="130">The wines made at the Cape are of the greatest variety possible. The
                     best, which is made at <persName>M. Vander Spy's</persName> plantation of
                        <placeName>Constantia</placeName>, is spoken of in
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, more by report than from real knowledge;
                     thirty leagres<ref target="#edn30">
                        <note xml:id="edn30" anchored="true"> A leagre contains about one hundred
                           and eight gallons, or a pipe. </note>
                     </ref> at the utmost are annually raised of this kind, and each leagre sells
                     for about fifty pounds on the spot. The vines from which it is made were
                     originally brought from <placeName>Shiraz</placeName> in
                        <placeName>Persia</placeName>. Several other sorts grow in the neighbourhood
                     of that plantation, which produce a sweet rich wine, that generally passes for
                     genuine Constantia in <placeName>Europe</placeName>. French plants of burgundy,
                     muscade, and frontignan have likewise been tried, and have succeeded extremely
                     well, sometimes producing wines superior to those of the original soil. An
                     excellent dry wine, which has a slight agreeable tartness, is commonly drank in
                     the principal families, and is made of Madeira vines transplanted to the Cape.
                     Several low sorts, not entirely disagreeable, are raised in great plenty, and
                     sold at a very cheap rate, so that the sailors of the East-India ships commonly
                     indulge themselves very plentifully in them whenever they come ashore.</p>

                  <p n="131">The products of the country supply with provisions the ships of all
                     nations which touch at the Cape. Corn, flour, biscuit, salted beef, brandy, and
                     wine are to be had in abundance, and at moderate prices; and their fresh
                     greens, fine fruits<ref target="#edn31">
                        <note xml:id="edn31" anchored="true"> Their grapes and oranges are some of
                           the best in the world. </note>
                     </ref>, good mutton and beef, are excellent restoratives to seamen who have
                     made a long voyage. The climate is likewise so healthy, that the inhabitants
                     are rarely troubled with complaints, and strangers soon recover of the scurvy
                     and other distempers. The winters at the Cape are so mild that they hardly ever
                     have ice about the town: but on the mountains, and especially those far in the
                     country, they have hard frosts with snow and hail storms; nay a strong
                     south-easterly storm sometimes brings on a frost during night even in the month
                     of November, which is their spring. The only inconvenience which they
                     frequently suffer are colds, brought on by the frequent change of air from
                     strong winds, to which the Cape is subject at all seasons. But notwithstanding
                     the heat, which is sometimes excessive, the inhabitants of Dutch origin seem to
                     have preserved their native habit of body, and both sexes are remarkably
                     corpulent, to which their good living may greatly contribute.</p>

                  <p n="132">The Hottentots or aboriginal inhabitants of this country, have retired
                     into the interior parts, and their nearest <hi rend="italics">kraal</hi> or
                     village, is about a hundred miles from the <placeName>Cape town</placeName>
                     From thence they sometimes come down with their own cattle, or attend the Dutch
                     farmers who conduct their flocks to town for sale. We had no opportunity to
                     make new observations upon them, as we only saw a few individuals, in whom we
                     could not discern any pecularities but such as have already been described by
                        <persName>Peter Kolben</persName>, in his Present State of the
                        <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, &amp;c. The circumstantial
                     accounts given by this intelligent man, have been confirmed to us by the
                     principal inhabitants of the <placeName>Cape town</placeName>. It is true, that
                     he has been misinformed in regard to some circumstances; and that others,
                     chiefly relative to the colony, have at present another appearance than in his
                     time: but he still remains the best author that can be consulted on the
                     subject, and as such we will venture to refer our readers to him.</p>

                  <p n="133">We have had an occasion to observe several facts alledged in Kolben,
                     and we likewise find them mentioned in <persName>Lieutenant Cook's</persName>
                     voyage. See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> compilation Vol. III. p. 789,
                     &amp;c. The Abbé de la Caille, an astronomer, in the account of his voyage,
                     which was published soon after his death, has endeavoured to ruin the credit of
                        <persName>Kolben's</persName> book, without giving us any thing better in
                     its stead. We should not have ventured to mention so superficial a performance,
                     as that of the Abbé, were it not necessary to vindicate from his aspersions,
                     the character of <persName>Kolben</persName>, as a faithful and accurate
                     observer. The Abbé lived with a family at the Cape, who were of a party
                     directly opposite to that which had supported <persName>Kolben</persName>. He
                     daily heard invectives against him, and never failed to write them down, in
                     order to give himself importance at the expence of the other.</p>

                  <p n="134">
                     <q>Nul n'aura d'esprit</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="135">
                     <q>Hors nous et nos amis. <persName>Boileau</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="136">The extremity of <placeName>Africa</placeName> towards the south is a
                     mass of high mountains, of which the outermost are black, craggy, and barren,
                     consisting of a coarse granite, which contains no heterogeneous parts, such as
                     petrified shells, &amp;c. nor any volcanic productions. The cultivated spots
                     which we saw had a stiff clay mixed with a little sand and small pieces of
                     stone; but the plantations towards False bay are almost entirely on a sandy
                     soil. The colony of <placeName>Stellenbosch</placeName> is said to have the
                     most fertile soil of all at the Cape, and the different plantations thrive
                     there incomparably better than any where else, particularly the European oaks,
                     which are said to have attained a considerable height and flourishing
                     appearance, whilst they do not seem to succeed near the town, where the tallest
                     we saw was not above thirty feet high. The interior mountains are certainly
                     metallic, and contain iron and copper; specimens of ores of both kinds were
                     shewn to us by <persName>Mr. Hemmy</persName>, and some tribes of Hottentots
                     melt both these metals; from whence we may conclude, that the ores they employ
                     must be rich and easy of fusion. Hot springs are likewise found at several
                     places in the interior country; and the inhabitants of the <placeName>Cape
                        Town</placeName> resort to one of them at the distance of about three days
                     journey, which is famous for curing cutaneous and other distempers, and is
                     probably of a sulphureous nature.</p>

                  <p n="137">The variety of plants in this country is surprising. In the little time
                     we staid there, we observed several new species growing in the environs of the
                     town, where we should least have expected them. And though the collections of
                     former botanists from hence are very ample, yet <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName> and the learned <persName>Dr. Thunberg<ref target="#edn32">
                           <note xml:id="edn32" anchored="true"> An eminent disciple of
                                 <persName>Linné</persName>, who after arranging and classing
                                 <persName>Dr. Burmann's</persName> herbals at
                                 <placeName>Leyden</placeName>, studied botany during three years at
                              the Cape, and having made immense acquisitions to science, was sent to
                                 <placeName>Batavia</placeName>, at the expence of the Dutch
                              East-India company, in order to proceed to
                                 <placeName>Japan</placeName> in 1775. The same gentleman was so
                              obliging, at <persName>Dr. Sparrman's</persName> request, to take with
                              him, on one of his excursions, <persName>Francis Masson</persName>,
                              employed in the Royal garden at Kew, who had been sent to the Cape on
                              board the Resolution, in order to collect live plants and seeds for
                              the botanical garden. Under <persName>Dr. Thunberg's</persName> kind
                              guidance, who pointed out to him what was worthy of notice, he has
                              made and brought home an ample collection. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName> have gathered above a thousand species entirely unknown before. The
                     animal kingdom is proportionably rich in the variety of its productions. The
                     greatest quadrupeds, the elephant, the rhinoceros, and the giraffe or
                     camelopard, inhabit this extremity of <placeName>Africa</placeName>; the two
                     first were formerly found within fifty miles of the Cape, but have been so much
                     pursued and hunted, that they are rarely seen at present within many days
                     journey. The rhinoceros particularly is so scarce, that the government have
                     issued an order to prevent its being entirely extirpated. The hippopotamus,
                     there called a sea-cow, which formerly used to come as far as
                        <placeName>Saldanha bay</placeName>, is likewise so seldom seen at present,
                     that none must be killed within a considerable distance of the Cape. Its meat
                     is eaten here, and reckoned a great dainty: the taste in my opinion is that of
                     coarse beef, but the fat rather resembles marrow. This animal feeds entirely on
                     vegetables, and we were told can only dive a short space, not exceeding thirty
                     yards. The wild buffalo is another huge quadruped, which now inhabits the more
                     remote settlements of the Cape, and is said to have prodigious strength and
                     ferocity. Its horns resembles those of the American wild ox (<hi rend="italics">bison</hi>), and are represented in the ixth vol. of
                        <persName>M. de Buffon's</persName> Natural History. They often attack the
                     farmers travelling in the country, and kill many of their cattle, which they
                     trample upon with their feet. <persName>Dr. Thunberg</persName> lost his horses
                     in one of these rencounters, and his fellow-traveller, the Dutch company's
                     gardener, narrowly escaped between two trees. A young one, about three years
                     old, belonging to the second governor, was put before a waggon, with six tame
                     oxen, but his strength was such that they could not move him out of his
                        place<ref target="#edn33">
                        <note xml:id="edn33" anchored="true"> We should have gone into the country
                           to see this animal, but we only heard of it the day before our departure.
                           this seems to be the animal mentioned by the Manet, <hi rend="italics">Nouvelle Histoire de l'Afrique</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">Françoise</hi>, tome ii. p. 129. </note>
                     </ref>. Besides this there is another species of wild ox, called by the natives
                        <hi rend="italics">gnoo</hi>, which has slender horns, a mane, and
                     brushes of hair on the nose and wattles, and in the slender make of its limbs
                     seems to resemble an horse or an antelope, more than its cogeneric animals.
                     This species we have drawn and described, and it has been brought over to the
                     menagerie of the Prince of Orange. <placeName>Africa</placeName> has always
                     been known as the country of the beautiful genus of gazelles or antelopes<ref target="#edn34">
                        <note xml:id="edn34" anchored="true"> We can only except a few species found
                           in <placeName>India</placeName>, and other parts of
                              <placeName>Asia</placeName>, and one in <placeName>Europe</placeName>.
                           The different species at the Cape are remarkable, some for the elegance
                           of their shape, some for their colours, their horns, or their size. The
                           Coodoo, or Kolben's <hi rend="italics">bock ohne namen</hi> (goat
                           without a name), from whence the name of <persName>M. de
                              Buffon's</persName> Condoma is probably derived, is the strepsiceros
                           of <persName>Linné</persName> and <persName>Pallas</persName>, and its
                           height is that of a horse. Its leaps are said to be of an astonishing
                           height. The Cape elk of <persName>Kolben</persName>,
                              <persName>Pallas's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">antelope oryx</hi>, is about the size of a stag.
                           The <hi rend="italics">bonte bock</hi> is the A. scripta of
                              <persName>Dr. Pallas</persName>. The antelope which they improperly
                           call a hart of stag at the Cape, is the A. bubalis of
                              <persName>Pallas</persName>. The Egyptian antelope,
                              <persName>Linné's</persName> and <persName>Pallas's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">gazella</hi>, and <persName>M. de
                              Buffon's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">pasan</hi>, is here called gems-bock or chamois,
                           which it does not in the least resemble. The blue antelope, (<hi rend="italics">blauwe bock</hi>) is really of a blueish colour, but
                           when killed soon loses the velvet-like appearance of its fur. The <hi rend="italics">spring-bock</hi>, a beautiful species, named A.
                           pygargus by <persName>Pallas</persName>, live in vast herds in the
                           interior parts of <persName>Africa</persName>, and travel to the
                           southward in the summer season, in search of food, attended by many
                           lions, panthers, hyӕnas, and jackals, which prey upon them. Of this
                           species we had the honour to present one to Her Majesty alive. Two small
                           species, with several varieties not hitherto noticed, supply the
                           principal inhabitants with venison of a fine flavour. Their size is that
                           of a fawn of the fallow deer. The <hi rend="italics">duyker</hi>, or
                           diving antelope, so called from hiding itself among the bushes when
                           pursued, and only emerging from time to time, is not yet sufficiently
                           known, and the animal named a roebuck here, likewise deserves the farther
                           attention of travellers. </note>
                     </ref>, and the different names which have been improperly given to its
                     species, have hitherto not a little contribute to obscure our knowledge of
                     them. A number of the fiercest beasts of prey likewise infest the Cape, and the
                     colonists can never be at sufficient pains to extirpate them. Lions, leopards,
                     tyger-cats, striped and spotted hyӕnas, (Pennant's Syn. of Quadr.) jackals, and
                     several others, live on the numerous species of antelopes, on hares, jerbuas,
                     caviӕ, and many lesser quadrupeds with which the country abounds. The number of
                     birds is likewise very great, and among them many are arrayed in the brightest
                     colours. I cannot help mentioning, in confirmation of
                        <persName>Kolben's</persName> accounts, that we have seen two species of
                     swallows at the Cape, though the Abbé de la Caille censures him for speaking of
                     them, because they did not occur to himself. The Abbé also commits a mistake
                     with regard to the knorhan, which is not a gelinote or grous, as he calls it,
                     but the African bustard. Upon the whole, it would be easy to refute almost
                     every criticism which the Abbé has passed on <persName>Kolben</persName>, if a
                     work of so little merit deserved so much attention. Reptiles of all kinds,
                     serpents, (among which are many whose bite is mortal), and a variety of insects
                     swarm about the Cape; and its shores likewise abound in well-tasted fishes, nay
                     of which are not yet known to the naturalist. In short, notwithstanding the
                     many spoils of the vegetable and animal kingdom, which have been brought from
                        <placeName>Africa</placeName>, its immense interior countries remain almost
                     entirely unknown to the present time, and still contain great treasures of
                     natural knowledge, which wait the future investigation of another Thunberg or
                     another Bruce.</p>
               </div>
               <div n="4" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. IV.<lb/>
                     Run from the Cape to the <placeName>Antarctic Circle</placeName>; first
                        season spent in high Southern Latitudes. - Arrival on the Coast of
                           <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="138">
                     <date>[1772. November.][Sunday 22.]</date>We sailed from <placeName>Table
                        bay</placeName>, about four in the afternoon, on the 22d of November, after
                     having saluted the fort. The wind blew in hard squalls, which continued all
                     night, and gave us once more a rough reception on the boisterous element; while
                     the same luminous appearance, which we had observed before our coming into this
                     bay, was perceived again, though in a much slighter degree. <date>[Monday
                        23.]</date> The next day towards eight in the morning, we lost sight of the
                     Cape, and directed our course to the southward. As we were now entering on an
                     unexampled navigation, not knowing when we might meet with a new place of
                     refreshment, the captain gave the strictest orders to prevent the waste of
                     fresh water; to this end a centry was placed at the scuttled-cask<ref target="#edn35">
                        <note xml:id="edn35" anchored="true"> An open butt placed on the
                           quarter-deck, and daily filled with fresh water out of the hold, for the
                           use of the ship's company. </note>
                     </ref>, and a regular allowance of water was daily served out to the crew,
                     besides which they were permitted to drink at the cask, but not to carry any
                     water away. The captain himself washed with salt-water, and all our company
                     were obliged to conform to this necessary restriction. The distilling machine
                     improved by <persName>Mr. Irving</persName>, was likewise constantly employed,
                     to supply at least <hi rend="italics">some</hi> part of the quantity daily
                     consumed.</p>

                  <p n="139">
                     <date>[Tuesday 24.]</date>On the 24th in the afternoon, the weather being fair
                     and moderate, after a hard gale we caught nine albatrosses with a line and
                     hook, baited with a bit of sheep's skin. Several of them measured above ten
                     feet from tip to tip, between the expanded wings. The younger ones seemed to
                     have a great mixture of brownish feathers, whereas the full-grown were almost
                     entirely white except their wings, which were blackish, and their scapulars
                     which were barred and sprinkled with dotted lines of black.</p>

                  <p n="140">A large brown fish resembling the sun fish (<hi rend="italics">tetrodon mola</hi>), was likewise seen close to the ship for a short
                     space of time.</p>

                  <p n="141">
                     <date>[Sunday 29.]</date>On the 29th the wind, which had for three or four days
                     past blown a very strong gale, now encreased so much, that we ran during the
                     last twenty-four hours, almost under the bare fore-sail. The sea at the same
                     time ran very high, and frequently broke over the sloop, in which none of the
                     cabins were prepared for such bad weather, our course from
                        <placeName>England</placeName> to the Cape having been remarkably free of
                     storms. The people, and especially persons not brought up to sea-affairs, were
                     ignorant how to behave in this new situation; the prodigious rolling of the
                     vessel therefore daily made great havock among cups, saucers, glasses, bottles,
                     dishes, plates, and every thing that was moveable; whilst the humorous
                     circumstances sometimes attending the general confusion, made us bear these
                     irreparable losses with greater composure than might have been expected. The
                     decks, and the floors of every cabin were however continually wet; and the howl
                     of the storm in the rigging, the roar of the waves, added to the violent
                     agitation of the vessel, which precluded almost every occupation, were new and
                     awful scenes, but at the same severely felt, and highly disagreeable. The air
                     was likewise unpleasantly sharp and cold about this time, our latitude being
                     now about <geo select="lat">42° s</geo>outh; and frequent rains contributed to
                     make the service of the seamen hard and comfortless. To secure them in some
                     measure against the inclemencies of the weather, the captain ordered a general
                     distribution of clothes to be made, which had been expressly provided at the
                     expence of the Admiralty to serve this purpose. Every person whose duty exposed
                     him to the severity of southern climates, from the lieutenant to the sailor,
                     was provided with a jacket and a pair of trowsers of the thickest woolen stuff
                     called <hi rend="italics">fearnought</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn36">
                        <note xml:id="edn36" anchored="true"> A distribution of the same nature was
                           made to <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> crew in his first voyage
                           round the world. See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> Compilation, vol.
                           II. p. 40. </note>
                     </ref>, or strong flannel, which kept out the wet for a long time, and had this
                     only fault, in common with every thing the navy provides, viz. that they were
                     supplied by contract, and therefore generally too short for our people. If we
                     consider the distresses to which <persName>M. de Bougainville's</persName> crew
                     were reduced for want of cloathing, we cannot help reflecting on the better
                     fortune of English seamen, who, under an equitable government, may expect to be
                     treated with peculiar care; and who, on perilous expeditions, are humanely and
                     attentively supplied with necessaries to face the dangers of the sea, and
                     support their spirits in adversity. A trying moment frequently occurs, where
                     the despondence caused by ill-treatment and heavy sufferings, must have the
                     most fatal consequences, since its direct opposite, an undaunted resolution is
                     then most necessary; such a moment we experience in this night. A petty officer
                     in the forepart of the vessel, awaking suddenly, heard a noise of water
                     streaming through his birth, and breaking itself against his own and his
                     mess-mates chests; he leaped out of his bed, and found himself to the middle of
                     the leg in water. He instantly acquainted the officer of the quarter-deck with
                     this dreadful circumstance, and in a few moments almost every person in the
                     ship was in motion; the pumps were employed, and the officers encouraged the
                     seamen with an alarming gentleness, to persevere in their work; notwithstanding
                     which the water seemed to gain upon us; every soul was filled with terror,
                     encreased by the darkness of the night.</p>

                  <p n="142">
                     <q>Ponto nox incubat atra,</q>
                  </p>
                  <p n="143">
                     <q>Prӕsentemque viris intentant omnia mortem. <persName>Virgil</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="144">
                     <q>
                        <l>For what obscured light the heav'ns did grant</l>
                        <l>Did but convey unto their fearful minds</l>
                        <l>A doubtful warrant of immediate death.</l>
                        <persName>Shakespeare</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="145">The chain-pumps were now cleared, and our sailors laboured at them with
                     great alacrity; at last one of them luckily discovered that the water came in
                     through a scuttle (or window) in the boatswain's store-room, which not having
                     been secured against the tempestuous southern ocean, had been staved in by the
                     force of the waves. It was immediately repaired, and closely shut up, and we
                     escaped for this time with the greatest part of the clothes and effects of the
                     sailors and officers thoroughly soaked in salt water. We should have found it
                     difficult, if not utterly impossible, to clear the ship of the water, if the
                     midshipman had not providentially awaked before it had gained too much upon us:
                     the presence of mind of our officers, and the spirit of our seamen would have
                     been exerted in vain, and we must perhaps have gone down to the bottom, in the
                     midst of a very dark night and turbulent ocean, which would have effectually
                     prevented our consort from giving us assistance. A distribution of
                     fishing-hooks and lines was made about this time to every person on board, as
                     was uncertain how soon we might meet with land, and consequently with an
                     opportunity of making use of them. </p>

                  <p n="146">
                     <date>[1772. December.][Saturday 5.]</date>The stormy weather continued,
                     intermixed with frequent rains and fogs, till the fifth of December<ref target="#edn37">
                        <note xml:id="edn37" anchored="true"> We had lost six large hogs of our live
                           stock, and some sheep, during this uncomfortable weather. </note>
                     </ref>, when we set the top-gallant sails for the first time, after leaving the
                        <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, and observed the latitude at noon,
                     in <geo select="lat">47° 10' s</geo>outh. In the afternoon, however, the
                     showers returned, and a western swell announced a wind from that quarter, which
                     actually came on during night, blowing at about S. W. and chilled the air so
                     considerably, that the thermometer sunk from 44° to 38° during the night, and
                     some snow began to fall the next morning. <date>[Monday 7.]</date>The wind soon
                     encreased to a storm again; so that on the 7th in the afternoon, we had only a
                     single sail set. A variety of birds of the petrel and tern genus, had attended
                     us in greater or lesser numbers ever since we had left the Cape, and the high
                     sea and winds seemed to have no other influence on them, than that of bringing
                     more of them about us. The principal sorts were the Cape-petrel, or pintada
                        (<hi rend="italics">procellaria</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">capensis</hi>), and the blue petrel, so called from its
                     having a blueish-grey colour, and a band of blackish feathers across the whole
                     wing. We likewise saw the two before mentioned species of albatrosses<ref target="#edn38">
                        <note xml:id="edn38" anchored="true"> See p. 51. </note>
                     </ref> from time to time, together with a third, less than the others, which we
                     named the <hi rend="italics">sooty</hi>, and our sailors called the quaker
                     bird, from its having a greyish-brown colour. <date>[Tuesday 8.]</date>Many
                     birds of all these different species surrounded us on the 8th of December, the
                     wind still continuing very high, and the sea very turbulent. We now likewise
                     saw pinguins<ref target="#edn39">
                        <note xml:id="edn39" anchored="true"> These birds, which since the time of
                              <persName>Sir John Narborough</persName>, have been repeatedly
                           mentioned by almost every navigator that has visited the Southern
                           extremities of <placeName>America</placeName>, are so well known to the
                           English reader, from the accounts of <persName>Anson</persName>,
                              <persName>Byron</persName>, <persName>Bougainville</persName>,
                              <persName>Pernetty</persName>, &amp;c. that it is scarce necessary to
                           describe them. They are in a manner amphibious creatures, and their wings
                           are unfit for flying, but shaped like strong fleshy membranes, which
                           perform all the functions of fins. There are upwards of ten different
                           species known to the naturalists at present. </note>
                     </ref> for the first time, and some bunches of sea-weed, of the species called
                     the sea-bamboo (<hi rend="italics">sucus buccinalis</hi> Lin.). These
                     appearances greatly favoured the hope of meeting with land, as it had hitherto
                     been held uncontroverted that weeds, especially rockweeds, (such as these were)
                     and pinguins were never to be met with at a great distance from shores; but
                     experience has shewn that these prognostics are not to be relied upon, and
                     probably derive all their credit from single accidental proofs in their favour,
                     supported by the name of some celebrated mariner. Future observations on the
                     nature of floating rock-weeds, and drift-wood, might perhaps lead to some more
                     determinate conclusions; for as these weeds must have been at first detached
                     from the rocks on which they grew, it is probable that from the degree of
                     freshness or of putridity which they have when found, the time they have been
                     adrift, and in some rare instances, the distances from land, may be
                     conjectured; but the direction and force of the winds and waves, and other
                     accidental circumstances, must in that case be carefully taken into
                     consideration.</p>

                  <p n="147">
                     <date>[Wednesday 9.]</date>The wind abated during night, so that we set out
                     courses on the 9th in the morning. The thermometer at <time>eight
                        o'clock</time> was however fallen to 35°, and only rose one degree at noon,
                     being then in <geo select="lat">49° 45' of s</geo>outh latitude. Towards night
                     it grew colder again, and at half an hour past ten, we found the thermometer on
                     deck very near 32°, and the edges of the scuttled-cask, filled with fresh
                     water, were freezing. This great cold preceded the sight of ice floating in the
                     sea, which we fell in with on the next morning. <date>[Thursday 10.]</date>The
                     first we saw, was a lump of considerable size, so close to us, that we were
                     obliged to bear away from it; another of the same magnitude a little more
                     a-head, and a large mass about two leagues on the weather-bow, which had the
                     appearance of a white head-land, or a chalk-cliff.</p>

                  <!-- AN April 7: This is one of the coordinates where Forster puts 'of' between coordinate & direction. -->

                  <p n="148">In the afternoon we passed another large cubical mass about 2000 feet
                     long, 400 feet broad, and at least as high again as our main-top-gallant-mast
                     head, or 200 feet high. According to the experiments of
                        <persName>Boyle</persName> and <persName>Mairan<ref target="#edn40">
                           <note xml:id="edn40" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mairan's</persName>
                              <hi rend="italics">Dissertation sur la Glace</hi>.
                                 <placeName>Paris</placeName>, 1749, p. 261. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, the volume of ice is to that of sea-water, nearly as ten to nine:
                     consequently, by the known rules of hydrostatics, the volume of ice which rises
                     above the surface of the water, is to that which sinks below it, as one to
                     nine. Supposing the piece which we now saw to be entirely of a regular figure,
                     its depth under water must have been one thousand eight hundred feet, and its
                     whole height two thousand feet, allowing its length as abovementioned two
                     thousand feet, and its breadth four hundred feet, the whole mass must have
                     contained one thousand six hundred millions cubic feet of ice.</p>

                  <p n="149">These prodigious pieces of ice, in all probability, drift but very
                     slowly and imperceptibly, since the greatest part of them being under water,
                     the power of winds and waves can have but little effect; currents perhaps are
                     the principal agents which give them motion, though I much question, whether
                     their velocity is ever considerable enough to carry them two miles in
                     four-and-twenty hours. At the time we met with this first ice, all our
                     conjectures about its formation could not amount to more than bare
                     probabilities, and had not sufficient experience to support them: but after we
                     have made the tour of the globe, without finding the Southern Continent, the
                     existence of which has been so universally believed in
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>; it seems in the highest degree reasonable to
                     suppose this floating ice to have been formed in the sea<ref target="#edn41">
                        <note xml:id="edn41" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Mr. Adanson</persName>, on returning from Senegal, brought
                           several bottles filled with sea-water with him, taken up in different
                           latitudes, which being brought to <placeName>Paris</placeName> from Brest
                           in the midst of winter, the water in them froze so as to break them; the
                           ice was perfectly fresh, and the residuum of brine was run out. See his
                              <hi rend="italics">Voyage au Senegal</hi>, p. 190. <persName>Mr.
                              Edward Nairne</persName>, F. R. S. has made experiments on sea-water
                           during the hard frost in 1776, inserted in the LXVI. volume of the
                           Philosophical Transactions, which put it beyond a doubt, that solid and
                           fresh ice may be formed from sea-water. </note>
                     </ref>; an idea the more probable, as repeated and decisive experiments have
                     evinced, that salt-water may be frozen.</p>

                  <p n="150">This ice likewise served to shew us the great difference between the
                     temperature of the northern and southern hemisphere. We were now in the midst
                     of December, which answers to our June, and the latitude observed at noon gave
                     only <geo select="lat">51° 5' s</geo>outh, notwithstanding which we had already
                     passed several pieces of ice, and the thermometer stood at 36°. The want of
                     land in the southern hemisphere seems to account for this circumstance, since
                     the sea, as a transparent fluid, absorbs the beams of the sun, instead of
                     reflecting them.</p>

                  <p n="151">
                     <date>[Friday 11.]</date>On the 11th of December, about <time>three o'clock in
                        the afternoon</time>, we passed to leeward of a large piece, or island of
                     ice, at least half a mile in length. The thermometer on deck, which had been at
                     36° about <time>two o'clock</time>, was risen to 41°, on account of the fair
                     sunshine, which continued all the afternoon: when we came abreast of the ice,
                     the wind directly blowing from thence, it gradually sunk to 37 1/3; however we
                     had no sooner passed it, than the mercury regained its former station of 41°.
                     We also found that this difference of four degrees, very perceptibly affected
                     our bodies, and concluded that the large masses of ice greatly contributed to
                     refrigerate the general temperature of the air in these inhospitable seas. The
                     waves dashed with great violence against the island of ice, as against a fixed
                     body; sometimes they broke entirely over it, notwithstanding its height, which
                     was not much inferior to that of the beforementioned piece, and we frequently
                     saw the spray rise very high above it, a phӕnomenon, which, on account of the
                     fair weather, had a remarkable fine effect. The sea-water by this means washed
                     upon the ice, is probably congealed there, and serves to encrease the mass; a
                     circumstance very materially conducive to ascertain the history of its
                     formation.</p>

                  <p n="152">Notwithstanding the coldness of this climate, our sloops were still
                     surrounded by birds of the petrel genus, albatrosses and pinguins. We
                     particularly observed a petrel, about the size of a pigeon, entirely white,
                     with a black bill and blueish feet; it constantly appeared about the icy
                     masses, and may be looked upon as a sure fore-runner of ice. Its colour induced
                     us to call it the snowy-petrel. A grampus and several whales likewise made
                     their appearance among the ice, and in these chilling regions served to vary
                     the dismal scene, and gave us some idea of a southern Greenland.</p>

                  <p n="153">
                     <date>[Sunday 13.]</date>The number of icy masses encreased around us every
                     day, so that we numbered upwards of twenty of a vast size on the 13th in the
                     afternoon. One of them was full of black spots, which were taken for seals by
                     some, and for aquatic birds by others, though we could not find that they even
                     shifted their places. However seals being hitherto looked upon as certain signs
                     of land, we sounded in the evening with a line of one hundred and fifty
                     fathoms, but found no bottom. The latitude we were now in, was that in which
                        <persName>Captain Lozier Bouvet</persName> had placed his pretended
                     discovery of <placeName>Cape Circumcision</placeName>, and our longitude was
                     only a few degrees to the eastward of it: the general expectation of seeing
                     land, was therefore very great, and every little circumstance like the
                     preceding roused all our attention; the clouds a-head were curiously examined
                     at every moment, since every one was eager to be the first to announce the
                     land. We had already had several false alarms from the fallacious conformation
                     of fog-banks, or that of islands of ice half hid in snow storms, and our
                     consort the Adventure had repeatedly made the signals for seeing land, deceived
                     by such appearances: but now, the imagination warmed with the idea of
                        <persName>M. Bouvet's</persName> discovery, one of our lieutenants, after
                     having repeatedly been up to the mast-head, (about <time>six o'clock in the
                        morning</time> on the 14th) <date>[Monday 14.]</date>acquainted the captain
                     that he plainly saw the land. This news soon brought up all upon deck: We saw
                     an immense field of flat ice before us, broken into many small pieces on the
                     edges, a vast number of islands of ice of all shapes and sizes rose beyond it
                     as far as the eye could reach, and some of the most distant considerably raised
                     by the hazy vapours which lay on the horizon, had indeed some appearance of
                     mountains. Several of our officers persisted in the opinion that they had seen
                     land here, till <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, about two years and two
                     months afterwards (in February 1775 on his course from <placeName>Cape
                        Horn</placeName> towards the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName> sailed
                     over the same spot, where they had supposed it to lie, and found neither land
                     nor even ice there at that time. Numbers of pinguins, pintadas, fulmars, snowy
                     and blue petrels<ref target="#edn42">
                        <note xml:id="edn42" anchored="true"> Aptenodytes antarctica; Procellaria
                           capensis, glacialis, nivea, &amp; vittata. </note>
                     </ref> attended this vast extent of ice, and different species of cetaceous
                     animals spouted up the water around us: two of them, shorter than other whales,
                     were particularly noticed, in respect of their bulk and of a white or rather
                     fleshy colour. A great degree of cold in these icy regions entirely precluded
                     the idea of a summer, which we had expected at this time of the year; our
                     thermometer stood at 31° in the morning, and did not rise beyond 33° at noon,
                     though the latitude we observed this day was only <geo select="lat">54° 55'
                        s</geo>outh. We passed through quantities of broken ice in the afternoon,
                     and saw another extensive ice-field, beyond which several of our people still
                     persisted in, taking fog-banks for land. It snowed a good deal during night,
                     and in the morning it was almost calm, but very foggy. A boat was hoisted out
                     to try the direction of the current. <persName>Mr. Wales</persName> the
                     astronomer, and my father, took this opportunity to repeat the experiments on
                     the temperature of the sea at a certain depth. The fog encreased so much while
                     they were thus engaged, that they entirely lost sight of both the ships. Their
                     situation in a small four-oared boat, on an immense ocean, far from any
                     inhabitable shore, surrounded with ice, and utterly destitute of provisions,
                     was truly terrifying and horrible in its consequences. They rowed about for
                     some time, making vain efforts to be heard, but all was silent about them, and
                     they could not see the length of their boat. They were the more unfortunate, as
                     they had neither mast nor sail, and only two oars. In this dreadful suspence
                     they determined to lie still, hoping that, provided they preserved their place,
                     the sloops would not drive out of sight, as it was calm. At last they heard the
                     jingling of a bell at a distance; this sound was heavenly music to their ears;
                     they immediately rowed towards it, and by continual hailing, were at last
                     answered from the Adventure, and hurried on board, overjoyed to have escaped
                     the danger of perishing by slow degrees, through the inclemencies of weather
                     and through famine. Having been on board some time, they fired a gun, and being
                     within hail of the Resolution, returned on board of that sloop, to their own
                     damp beds and mouldering cabins, upon which they now set a double value, after
                     so perilous an expedition. The risks to which the voyager is exposed at sea are
                     very numerous, and danger often arises where it is least expected. Neither can
                     we trace the care of Providence more evidently in storms among hidden rocks and
                     shoals, and where water or fire threaten destruction, than in these little
                     circumstances, which the traveller and the reader are both too apt to forget or
                     pass lightly over, if they come to a favourable issue.</p>

                  <p n="154">
                     <date>[Friday 18.]</date>The quantity of impenetrable ice to the south did not
                     permit us to advance towards that quarter; therefore, after several fruitless
                     attempts, we stood on to the eastward, along it, frequently making way through
                     great spots covered with broken ice, which answered the description of what the
                     northern navigators call packed ice. Heavy hail showers and frequent falls of
                     snow continually obscured the air, and only gave us the reviving sight of the
                     sun during short intervals. Large islands of ice were hourly seen in all
                     directions around the sloops, so that they were now become as familiar to us as
                     the clouds and the sea; their frequency however still led to new observations,
                     which our long acquaintance with them served to confirm. We were certain of
                     meeting with ice in any quarter where we perceived a strong reflexion of white
                     on the shirts of the sky near the horizon. However the ice is not always
                     entirely white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the sea, with
                     a most beautiful sapphirine or rather berylline blue, evidently reflected from
                     the water; this blue colour sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the
                     surface, and was there probably owing to some particles of sea-water which had
                     been dashed against the mass in tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into
                     its interstices. We could likewise frequently observe in great islands of ice,
                     different shades or casts of white, lying above each other in strata of six
                     inches or one foot high. This appearance seems to confirm the opinion
                     concerning the farther encrease and accumulation of such huge masses by heavy
                     falls of snow at different intervals. For snow being of various kinds, small
                     grained, large grained, in light feathery locks, &amp;c. the various degrees of
                     its compactness account for the different colours of the strata.</p>

                  <p n="155">
                     <date>[Tuesday 22.]</date>We did not lose sight of our destination to explore
                     the southern frigid zone, and no sooner perceived the sea more open than
                     before, than we stood once more to the south-ward. We made but small advances
                     at first, the wind being very faint, and almost falling calm in the morning on
                     the 23d. <date>[Wednesd. 23.]</date>We seized this opportunity to hoist out a
                     boat, and continue the experiments on the current, and on the temperature of
                     the sea. The species of petrels which were numerous about us, were likewise
                     examined, described, and drawn this day, having been shot as they hovered with
                     seeming curiosity over our little boat.</p>

                  <p n="156">
                     <date>[Thursday 24.]</date>We continued standing southerly, and even made a
                     good deal of westing, the wind being S. S. E. <date>[Friday 25.]</date>The next
                     morning the wind blew pretty fresh, and carried us past several islands of ice;
                     some whales, and a number of birds appearing about us. Our first Christmas day
                     during this voyage, was spent with the usual chearfulness among officers and
                     passengers; but among the sailors, notwithstanding the surrounding rocks of
                     ice, with savage noise and drunkenness, to which they seem to have particularly
                     devoted the day. <date>[Saturday 26.]</date>The next morning we sailed through
                     a great quantity of packed or broken ice, some of which looked dirty or
                     decaying. Islands of ice still surrounded us, and in the evening, the sun
                     setting just behind one of them, tinged its edges with gold, and brought upon
                     the whole mass a beautiful suffusion of purple. A dead calm which succeeded on
                     the 27th, gave us an opportunity of hoisting the boat out, and going to shoot
                     pinguins and petrels. The chace of pinguins proved very unsuccessful, though it
                     afforded great sport; the birds dived so frequently, continued so long under
                     water, and at times skipped continually into and out of the water, making way
                     with such amazing velocity in a strait line, that we were obliged to give over
                     the pursuit. At last we came near enough to one, to wound it; but though we
                     followed it closely, and fired above ten times with small shot, which we could
                     observe to hit, yet we were at last obliged to kill it with ball. When we took
                     it up, we perceived that its hard, glossy plumage, had continually turned the
                     shot aside. This plumage is extremely thick, and consists of long narrow
                     feathers, which lie above each other as closely as scales, and secure these
                     amphibious birds against the wet, in which they almost constantly live. Their
                     very thick skin and their fat seem wisely appropriated to them by nature, to
                     resist the perpetual winter of these unhospitable climates; their broad belly,
                     the situation of their feet far behind, and their fins, which supply the place
                     of wings, are constructed with equal wisdom to facilitate the progress of their
                     otherwise lumpish bodies through the water. The one that we had now shot
                     weighed eleven pounds and a half. The blue petrels which are seen throughout
                     this immense ocean, and which now settled in flocks of several hundreds on the
                     smooth surface of the water, were not worse fitted out against the cold than
                     the pinguins. Their plumage was amazingly abundant, and increased their bulk in
                     a great proportion; and two feathers instead of one, proceeded out of every
                     root, lying within each other, and formed a very warm covering. As they are
                     almost continually in the air, their wings are very strong, and of a great
                     length to support them. On the ocean, between <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> and <placeName>America</placeName>, we have found them
                     above seven hundred leagues from any land; a distance which it would have been
                     impossible for them to have passed, without an amazing strength in their bones
                     and muscles, and the assistance of long wings. Possibly these birds spreading
                     over the whole ocean far from any land, may live a considerable time without
                     fresh supplies of food; that being the case with many animals of prey, both in
                     the class of quadrupeds and that of birds. Our experience should seem in some
                     measure to contradict, and in some degree to confirm, this supposition. For
                     whenever we lamed any of them, they disgorged a quantity of viscid food, to all
                     appearance recently digested, which the rest immediately swallowed up with such
                     avidity as seemed to indicate a long fast. Therefore it may be probably, that
                     several sorts of blubbers (<hi rend="italics">mollusca</hi>) inhabit these
                     icy seas, which may come to the surface in fair weather, and supply the weary
                     birds with food. We were glad to meet with subjects from whence these little
                     reflections could be drawn. They afforded us a momentary relief from that
                     gloomy uniformity with which we slowly passed dull hours, days, and months in
                     this desolate part of the world. We were almost perpetually wrapt in thick
                     fogs, beaten with showers of rain, sleet, hail, and snow, the temperature of
                     the air being constantly about the point of congelation in the height of
                     summer; surrounded by innumerable islands of ice against which we daily ran the
                     risk of being shipwrecked, and forced to live upon salt provisions, which
                     concurred with the cold and wet to infect the mass of our blood. These
                     severities naturally inspired a general wish for a happier change of situation
                     and climate, though our seamen coming fresh and strong from
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, were not yet dispirited amidst the
                     numberless fatigues and inclemencies to which they were exposed. The
                     prophylactics, with which we had been supplied, and which were regularly served
                     to the crew, namely portable broth, and sour krout, had a wonderful effect in
                     keeping them free from the sea-scurvy. Two or three men however, of a bad habit
                     of body, could not resist this dreadful disease; one of them in particular,
                        <persName>George Jackson</persName>, a carpenter, fell ill ten days after
                     leaving the Cape; his gums were ulcerous, and his teeth so loose, as to lie
                     sideways. A marmalade of carrots, which had been much recommended was tried,
                     but without success, it having no other effect than that of keeping him open.
                     Our surgeon, <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, then began the cure with fresh
                     wort, i.e. the infusion of malt, by which he gradually recovered, and in the
                     space of a few weeks, was perfectly cured, his teeth fast, and his gums
                     entirely renewed. As the efficient cause of his complaint still existed, he was
                     obliged to continue the use of wort even after his cure, and by that means was
                     kept free from all scorbutic symptoms. The encomiums on the efficacy of malt
                     cannot be exaggerated, and this useful remedy ought never to be forgotten on
                     board of ships bound on long voyages; nor can we bestow too much care to
                     prevent its becoming damp and mouldy, by which means its salutary qualities are
                     impaired, as we experienced during the latter part of our voyage.</p>

                  <p n="157">
                     <date>[1773. January.][Friday 1.]</date>The new year began with snow-showers
                     and fresh cold gales, which carried us to the westward, under the meridian,
                     where <persName>M. Bouvet</persName> placed the discovery, which he called
                        <placeName>Cape Circumcision</placeName>. The sight of seals and pinguins
                     once more revived the hopes of some of our fellow-voyagers, who bid us look out
                     for land, which by their account could not be far off. Our course however soon
                     disappointed their expectations, and only served to invalidate their
                     testimonies of the proximity of land.</p>

                  <p n="158">
                     <date>[Sunday 3.]</date>The wind shifted to the north-westward in the night,
                     and we stood back again to the east, having first proceeded beyond the meridian
                     of <persName>M. Bouvet's</persName> discovery. We passed the spot where we had
                     met with much ice on the 31st of December, and found it drifted away from
                     thence; after which we continued our course to the S. E. </p>

                  <p n="159">
                     <date>[Saturday 9.]</date>On the 9th, in the morning, we saw a large island of
                     ice, surrounded with many small broken pieces, and the weather being moderate
                     we brought to, hoisted out the boats, and sent them to take up as much of the
                     small ice as they could. We piled up the lumps on the quarter-deck, packed them
                     into casks, and after dinner melted them in the coppers, and obtained about
                     thirty days water, in the course of this day, and in the latitude of <geo select="lat">61° 36' s</geo>outh. Two days afterwards we had another
                     opportunity of supplying our sloops with ice, which our people performed with
                     great alacrity, notwithstanding the excoriation of their hands, which the cold
                     and the sharpness of the sea produced. A picturesque view of some large masses
                     of ice, and of our ships and boats employed in watering from small ice, is
                     inserted in <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> account of this voyage. Some
                     white whales of a huge size, seemingly sixty feet long, were observed here, and
                     many pinguins floated past us, standing upright on small bits of ice. The water
                     we melted out of this ice was perfectly fresh, and had a purer taste than any
                     which we have on board. If any fault could be found with it, it was that the
                     fixed air was expelled from it, by which means almost every one who used it was
                     affected with swellings in the glands of the throat. Water melted from snow or
                     ice is known always to have this effect, and the constant use of it in
                     mountainous countries produces those enormous wens (<hi rend="italics">goîtres</hi>) which are common among Alpine nations, and are become so
                     habitual that they are looked upon as ornamental. Several persons on board,
                     unacquainted with natural philosophy, were very seriously afraid that the ice,
                     when it began to melt, would burst the casks in which it was paced, not
                     considering that its volume must be greater in its frozen than in its melted
                     state, since it floated on the surface. The Captain, to undeceive them, placed
                     a little pot filled with stamped ice in a temperate cabin, where it gradually
                     dissolved, and in that state took up considerably less space than before.
                     Ocular demonstration always goes farther than the clearest arguments; but
                     reasoning never has less weight than with sailors.</p>

                  <p n="160">
                     <date>[Sunday 17.]</date>On the 17th, in the forenoon, we crossed the antarctic
                     circle, and advanced into the southern frigid zone, which had hitherto remained
                     impenetrable to all navigators. Some days before this period we had seen a new
                     species of petrel, of a brown colour, with a white belly and rump, and a large
                     white spot on the wings, which we now named the antarctic petrel, as we saw
                     great flights of twenty or thirty of them hereabouts, of which we shot many
                     that unfortunately never fell into the ship. About <time>five o'clock in the
                        afternoon</time>, we had sight of more than thirty large islands of ice
                     a-head; and perceived a strong white reflexion from the sky over the horizon.
                     Soon after we passed through vast quantities of broken ice, which looked
                     honey-combed and spungy, and of a dirty colour. This continually thickened
                     about us, so that the sea became very smooth, though the wind was fresh as
                     before. An immense field of solid ice extended beyond it to the south, as far
                     as the eye could reach from the mast-head. Seeing it was impossible to advance
                     farther that way, <persName>Captain Cook</persName> ordered the ships to put
                     about, and stood north-east by north, after having reached <geo select="lat">67° 15' s</geo>outh latitude, where many whales, snowy, grey, and antarctic
                     petrels, appeared in every quarter.</p>

                  <p n="161">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 20.]</date>On the 19th and 20th we saw a bird, which a
                     gentleman, who had been at <placeName>Falkland's islands</placeName>, called a
                     Port-Egmont hen<ref target="#edn43">
                        <note xml:id="edn43" anchored="true"> This bird is mentioned in
                              <persName>Lieutenant Cook's</persName> voyage in the Endeavour. See
                              <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 283. </note>
                     </ref>, and which proved to be the skua or great northern gull (<hi rend="italics">larus catarractes</hi>), common in the high latitudes of
                     both hemispheres. The appearance of this bird, was likewise construed into a
                     prognostick of land; but our disappointments had already been so frequent in
                     this respect, that we were not easily led to give credit to bare assertions. We
                     saw a bird of this species again on the 27th, when we had a great variety of
                     all kinds of petrels and albatrosses around us. It always soared up to a great
                     height, perpendicularly over our heads, and looked down upon us, as it should
                     seem with great attention, turning its head now on one side, and now on the
                     other. This was a novelty to us, who were used to see all the other aquatic
                     birds of this climate keep near the surface of the sea. The next evening, and
                     on the 29th, we had several porpesses passing by us with amazing swiftness in
                     all directions. They were pied, and had a large blotch of white on the sides,
                     which came almost up to the back behind the dorsal fin. Their velocity was at
                     least triple that of our vessels, though we now went at the rate of seven knots
                     and a half. In the afternoon we saw a small black and white bird, which some
                     called an ice-bird, and others a murr, and which seldom or never go out of
                     sight of land; but as we could not come near enough to examine it more
                     accurately, we rather believed that it might be a species of petrel. We stood
                     however off and on this night and the next, finding the sea very moderate,
                     though the wind blew very fresh. We were the more induced to take this
                     precaution as we had received intelligence at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName> of a discovery of land hereabouts, by the French captains
                        <persName>M. de Kerguelen</persName> and <persName>M. de St.
                        Allouarn</persName> in January 1772.</p>

                  <p n="162">As the journal of that voyage has been suppressed in
                        <placeName>France</placeName>, I shall here insert such particulars as were
                     communicated to us by several French officers at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>. <persName>M. de Kerguelen</persName>, a lieutenant in the
                     French navy, commanding the vessel (<hi rend="italics">flute</hi>) la
                     Fortune, and having with him a smaller vessel (<hi rend="italics">gabarre</hi>) le Gros Ventre, commanded by <persName>M. de St.
                        Allouarn</persName>, sailed from the <placeName>Isle of France or
                        Mauritius</placeName> the latter end of 1771. On the 13th of January 1772,
                     he saw two isles, which he called the <placeName>Isles of Fortune</placeName>;
                     and the next morning one more, which from its shape they called <placeName>Isle
                        Ronde</placeName>. Almost about the same time, <persName>M. de
                        Kerguelen</persName> saw land, of a considerable extent and height, upon
                     which he sent one of the officers of his ship a-head in the cutter to sound.
                     But the wind blowing fresh, <persName>M. de St. Allouarn</persName> in the Gros
                     Ventre shot ahead of the boat, and finding a bay, which he called the
                        <placeName>Gros Ventre's bay</placeName> sent his own yawl to take
                     possession of the land which was performed with the utmost difficulty. Both the
                     boats then returned aboard the Gros Ventre, and the cutter was cut adrift on
                     account of the bad weather. <persName>M. de St. Allouarn</persName> then spent
                     three days in quest of <persName>M. de Kerguelen</persName>, who had been
                     driven sixty leagues to leeward, on account of his weak masts, and was returned
                     towards the <placeName>Isle of France</placeName>. <persName>M. de St.
                        Allouarn</persName> continued to take the bearings of this land, and doubled
                     its northern extremity beyond which it tended to the south-eastward. In this
                     direction he coasted it for the space of twenty leagues, and seeing it was very
                     high, inaccessible, and destitute of trees, he left it, standing over to the
                     coast of <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, from thence to
                        <placeName>Timor</placeName> and <placeName>Batavia</placeName>, and at last
                     back to the <placeName>Isle of France</placeName>, where he died soon after his
                     arrival. On <persName>M. de Kerguelen's</persName> return to
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, he was immediately sent out again with a 64
                     gun ship called the Roland, and the frigate l'Oiseau, <persName>captain
                        Rosnevet</persName>; but after having just seen the land, which he had
                     discovered in his former voyage, he returned without making farther
                     discoveries. The northern coast of the land which he discovered, is situated in
                     about <geo select="lat">48 degrees s</geo>outh latitude, and about <geo select="lon">82 degrees e</geo>ast longitude from
                        <placeName>Ferro</placeName>, or <geo select="lon">6 degrees e</geo>ast of
                     the <placeName>Isle of France</placeName>, (i.e. in about <geo select="lon">64°
                        20' e</geo>ast from <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>).</p>
                  <!-- AN April 7:Forster wrote out degrees. -->
                  <p n="163">
                     <persName>M. de Marion</persName> in his expedition of 1772, in January, fell
                     in with small islands in three different places, about the latitude of <geo select="lat">46 1/2°</geo> and <geo select="lat">47 1/2°</geo> , and about
                     the longitudes of <geo select="lon">37°, 46 1/2°</geo> , and <geo select="lon">48 1/2° e</geo>ast from <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>. These islands
                     were all of inconsiderable extent, high, rocky, destitute of trees, and almost
                     entirely barren. <persName>M. de Marion</persName> had two ships under his
                     command, one the Mascarin, <persName>captain Crozet</persName>, the other the
                     Castrie, <persName>captain Du Clesmure</persName>. They proceeded to the
                     southern extremity of <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, or
                        <placeName>Diemen's land</placeName>, first seen by
                        <persName>Tasman</persName>; and from thence to the bay of islands in
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, where <persName>M. de Marion</persName>
                     was killed with 28 of his men by the natives, of which more shall be said in
                     the sequel. After this loss <persName>M. de Crozet</persName>, on whom the
                     command devolved, passed through the western part of the South Sea to the
                     Philippinas, from whence he returned to the <placeName>Isle de
                        France</placeName>. Agreeably to these accounts, the discoveries of the
                     French voyagers have been laid down in an excellent <date>[1773.
                        February.]</date>chart of the southern hemisphere, by <persName>M. de
                        Vaugondy</persName>, under the direction of the duke de Croy, and published
                     in March 1773.</p>

                  <p n="164">On the 31st in the evening, our latitude being nearly that of <geo select="lat">50° s</geo>outh, we passed by a large island of ice, which at
                     that instant crumbled to pieces with a tremendous explosion. <date>[Monday
                        1.]</date>The next morning a bundle of sea weeds was seen floating past the
                     sloop; and in the afternoon, <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> in the
                     Adventure having hailed us, acquainted <persName>captain Cook</persName> that
                     he had seen a number of divers, resembling those in the English seas, and had
                     past a great bed of floating rock-weeds. In consequence of these observations
                     we stood off and on during night, and continued an easterly course the next
                     morning. <date>[Tuesday 2.]</date>We saw many petrels and black shear-waters,
                     some rock-weed, and a single tern (<hi rend="italics">sterna</hi>) or as the
                     seamen call it an egg-bird, which had a forked tail. At noon we observed in
                        <geo select="lat">48° 36' s</geo>outh latitude, which was nearly the same in
                     which the French discoveries are said to be situated. After noon we stood
                     south-westward, but the next day the gale encreased to such a degree, as
                     obliged us to hand our topsails, and stand on under the courses all night:
                     however, at <time>eight o'clock</time> on the 4th, we found a smooth sea gain,
                     and set more sail, changing our course to the north-westward at noon. On the
                     6th our latitude at noon was nearly <geo select="lat">48 degrees s</geo>outh,
                     about <geo select="lon">60 degrees e</geo>ast from
                        <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, when not seeing any land, we gave over the
                     attempt to stand in search of it, and directed our course once more to the
                     south-eastward, to the main object of our voyage. The smoothness of the sea,
                     whilst we had strong easterly gales, however persuaded us, that there was
                     probably some land near us to the eastward, and the situation given to the
                     French discoveries, in <persName>M. Vaugondy's</persName> late chart, has
                     confirmed our supposition; for, according to it, we must have been at least 2
                     degrees of longitude to the west of it, on the second of February, when we were
                     farthest to the east in the given latitude. Though we did not fall in with the
                     land itself, yet we have done so much service to geography by our track, as to
                     put it beyond a doubt, that the French discovery is a small island, and not,
                     what it was supposed at first to be, the north cape of a great southern
                     continent.</p>

                  <p n="165">
                     <date>[Monday 8.]</date>On the 8th in the morning, we had an exceeding thick
                     fog, during which we lost sight of the Adventure, our consort. We fired guns
                     all that day and the next, at first every half hour, and afterwards every hour,
                     without receiving any answer; and at night we burnt false fires, which likewise
                     proved ineffectual.</p>

                  <p n="166">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 10.]</date>On the 10th in the morning, notwithstanding all our
                     endeavours to recover our consort, we were obliged to proceed alone on a dismal
                     course to the southward, and to expose ourselves once more to the dangers of
                     that frozen climate, without the hope of being saved by our fellow-voyagers, in
                     case of losing our own vessel. Our parting with the Adventure, was almost
                     universally regretted among our crew, and none of them ever looked around the
                     ocean without expressing some concern on seeing our ship alone on this vast and
                     unexplored expanse, where the appearance of a companion seemed to alleviate our
                     toils, and inspired cheerfulness and comfort. We were likewise not entirely
                     without apprehensions, that the Adventure might have fallen in with land, as
                     the sight of pinguins, of little diving petrels, and especially of a kind of
                     grebe, seemed to vindicate its vicinity. Indeed, according to the chart of M.
                     Vaugondy we must have been but very little to the south of it at that time.</p>

                  <p n="167">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 17.]</date>On the 17th we were near <geo select="lat">8 degrees
                        s</geo>outh, and took up a great quantity of small ice, with which we filled
                     our water casks. A variety of petrels and albatrosses, had attended us
                     continually; and from time to time the skua, or great northern gull (<hi rend="italics">larus catarractes</hi>), which our people called a Port
                     Egmont hen, many pinguins, some seals, and some whales had made their
                     appearance near us. A beautiful phӕnomenon was observed during the preceding
                     night, which appeared again this and several following nights. It consisted of
                     long columns of a clear white light, shooting up from the horizon to the
                     eastward, almost to the zenith, and gradually spreading on the whole southern
                     part of the sky. These columns sometimes were bent sideways at their upper
                     extremity, and though in most respects similar to the northern lights (<hi rend="italics">aurora borealis</hi>) of our hemisphere, yet differed from
                     them, in being always of a whitish colour, whereas ours assume various tints,
                     especially those of a fiery, and purple hue. The stars were sometimes hid by,
                     and sometimes faintly to be seen through the substance of these southern
                     lights, (<hi rend="italics">aurora australis</hi>), which have hitherto, as
                     far as I can find, escaped the notice of voyagers. The sky was generally clear
                     when they appeared, and the air sharp and cold, the thermometer standing at the
                     freezing point.</p>

                  <p n="168">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 24.]</date>On the 24th, being in about <geo select="lat">62
                        degrees s</geo>gouth latitude, we fell in once more with a solid field of
                     ice, which confined our progress to the south, very much to the satisfaction of
                     every body on board. We had now been long at sea, without receiving any
                     refreshment; the favourable season for making discoveries towards the frozen
                     zone, drew to an end; the weather daily became more sharp, and uncomfortable,
                     and presaged a dreadful winter in these seas; and, lastly, the nights
                     lengthened apace, and made our navigation more dangerous than it had hitherto
                     been. It was therefore very natural, that our people, exhausted by fatigues and
                     the want of wholesome food, should wish for a place of refreshment, and rejoice
                     to leave a part of the world, where they could not expect to meet with it.
                        <date>[1773. March.][Wednesd. 17.]</date>We continued however from this day
                     till the 17th of March to run to the eastward, between <geo select="lat">61°</geo> and <geo select="lat">58°of s</geo> outh latitude, during which
                     time we had a great share of easterly winds, which commonly brought fogs, and
                     rains with them, and repeatedly exposed us to the most imminent danger of being
                     wrecked against huge islands of ice. The shapes of these large frozen masses,
                     were frequently singularly ruinous, and so far picturesque enough; among them
                     we passed one of a great size, with a hollow in the middle, resembling a grotto
                     or cavern, which was pierced through, and admitted the light from the other
                     side. Some had the appearance of a spire or steeple; and many others gave full
                     scope to our imagination, which compared them to several known objects, by that
                     means attempting to overcome the tediousness of our cruize, which the sight of
                     birds, porpesses, seals, and whales, now too familiar to our eyes, could not
                     prevent from falling heavily upon us. Notwithstanding our excellent
                     preservatives, especially the sour-krout, several of our people had now strong
                     symptoms of sea-scurvy, such as bad gums, difficult breathing, livid blotches,
                     eruptions, contracted limbs, and greenish greasy filaments in the urine. Wort
                     was therefore prescribed to them, and those who were the most affected drank
                     five pints of it per day; the contracted limbs were bathed in it, and the warm
                     grains applied to them. By this means we succeeded to mitigate, and in some
                     individuals entirely to remove the symptoms of this horrid disease. The rigours
                     of the climate likewise violently affected the live sheep, which we had
                     embarked at the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>. They were covered
                     with eruptions, dwindled to mere skeletons, and would hardly take any
                     nourishment. Our goats and sows too, miscarried in the tempestuous weather, or
                     their off-spring were killed by the cold. In short, we felt, from the numerous
                     concurrent circumstances, that it was time to abandon the high southern
                     latitudes, and retire to some port, where our crew might obtain refreshments,
                     and where we might save the few sheep, which were intended as presents to the
                     natives of the South-sea islands.</p>

                  <!-- AN April 7:Forster wrote out degrees & separated with 'of'.-->

                  <p n="169">On the 16th, being in about <geo select="lat">58 degrees of s</geo>outh
                     latitude, we saw the sea luminous at night, though not to such a degree as we
                     had observed it near the Cape, but only by means of some scattered sparks. This
                     phӕnomenon was however remarkable, on account of the high latitude we were in,
                     and the cold weather, our thermometer being at 33 1/4° at noon. We saw the
                     southern lights again during the nights of the 16th and 19th; and this last
                     time, the columns formed an arch across the sky, rather brighter than any we
                     had hitherto seen. We now stood to the north-eastward, in order to reach the
                     south end of <placeName>New-Zeeland</placeName>; and on this course we had
                     strong gales, and frequently saw weeds, especially rock-weeds, together with
                     numbers of petrels, and other birds. We were much amused by a singular chace of
                     several skuas or great grey gulls, after a large white albatross. The skuas
                     seemed to get the better of this bird, notwithstanding its length of wings, and
                     whenever they overtook it, they endeavoured to attack it under the belly,
                     probably knowing that to be the most defenceless part; the albatross on these
                     occasions had no other method of escaping, than by settling on the water, where
                     its formidable beak seemed to keep them at bay. The skuas are in general very
                     strong and rapacious birds, and in the <placeName>Ferro Islands</placeName>
                     frequently tear lambs to pieces, and carry them away to their nests. The
                     albatrosses do not seem to be so rapacious, but live upon small marine animals,
                     especially of the <hi rend="italics">mollusca</hi>, or blubber class. They
                     appeared in great numbers around us, as we came to the northward of <geo select="lat">50 degrees s</geo>outh, only few solitary birds having gone so
                     far to the south as we had penetrated; from whence it may be inferred, that
                     they are properly inhabitants of the temperate zone.</p>

                  <p n="170">As we stood to the northward, we also observed more seals every day,
                     which came from the coast of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. A large trunk
                     of a tree, and several bunches of weeds <date>[Thursday 25.]</date>were seen on
                     the 25th, and greatly exhilarated the spirits of our sailors. Soon after, the
                     land was descried, bearing N. E. by E. at a vast distance. About <time>five
                        o'clock</time> in the afternoon we were within a few miles of it, and saw
                     some high mountains inland, and a broken rocky coast before us, where several
                     inlets seemed to indicate an extensive bay or sound. We tried soundings in 30
                     fathoms, but found none; however, at the mast-head they observed sunken rocks
                     close to us, on which we immediately tacked, and stood off shore, as the
                     weather was growing dark and misty. The next morning we found this part of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> lay to the southward of <placeName>Cape
                        West</placeName>, and had not been explored by <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, in the Endeavour.</p>

                  <p n="171">Thus ended our first cruize in the high southern latitudes, after a
                     space of four months and two days, out of sight of land, during which we had
                     experienced no untoward accident, and had been safely led through numerous
                     dangers by the guiding hand of Providence, which preserved our crew in good
                     health during the whole time, a few individuals excepted. Our whole course,
                     from the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName> to <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, was a series of hardships, which had never been
                     experienced before: all the disagreeable circumstances of the sails and rigging
                     shattered to pieces, the vessel rolling gunwale to, and her upper works torn by
                     the violence of the strain; the concomitant effects of storms, which have been
                     painted with such strong expression, and blackness of <hi rend="italics">Colorit</hi>, by the able writer of Anson's Voyage, were perhaps the
                     least distressing occurrences of ours. We had the perpetual severities of a
                     rigorous climate to cope with; our seamen and officers were exposed to rain,
                     sleet, hail, and snow; our rigging was constantly encrusted with ice, which cut
                     the hands of those who were obliged to touch it; our provision of fresh water
                     was to be collected in lumps of ice floating on the sea, where the cold, and
                     the sharp saline element alternately numbed, and scarified the sailors' limbs;
                     we were perpetually exposed to the danger of running against huge masses of
                     ice, which filled the immense Southern ocean: the frequent and sudden
                     appearance of these perils, required an almost continual exertion of the whole
                     crew, to manage the ship with the greatest degree of precision and dispatch.
                     The length of time which we remained out of sight of land, and the long
                     abstinence from any sort of refreshment were equally distressful; for our hooks
                     and lines distributed in November (See pag. 90.) had hitherto been of no
                     service, on account of our navigation in high southern latitudes, and across an
                     unfathomable ocean, where we saw no fish except whales, and where it is well
                     known no others can be expected; the torrid zone being the only one where they
                     may be caught out of soundings.</p>

                  <p n="172">
                     <q>Atrum</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="173">
                     <q>Defendens pisces hiemat mare. <persName>Horat</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="174">We may add to these the dismal gloominess which always prevailed in the
                     southern latitudes, where we had impenetrable fogs lasting for weeks together,
                     and where we rarely saw the cheering face of the sun; a circumstance which
                     alone is sufficient to deject the most undaunted, and to sour the spirits of
                     the most cheerful. It is therefore justly to be wondered at, and ought to be
                     considered as a distinguishing mark of divine protection, that we had not felt
                     those ill effects which might have been expected, and justly dreaded as the
                     result of such accumulated distresses.</p>
               </div>
               <div n="5" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. V.<lb/>
                     Stay at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>; description of it, and account of
                        our transactions there.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="175">
                     <date>[1773. March.]</date>AFTER an interval of one hundred and twenty-two
                     days, and a run of above three thousand five hundred leagues, out of sight of
                     land, we entered <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> on the 26th of March about
                     noon. <date>[Friday 26.]</date>This bay is situated a little to the northward
                     of <placeName>Cape West</placeName>, and <persName>captain Cook</persName>, in
                     his voyage in the Endeavour, had discovered and named it without entering into
                        it<ref target="#edn44">
                        <note xml:id="edn44" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           compilation, vol. III. p. 424. </note>
                     </ref>. The soundings gave about 40 fathoms in the entrance, but as we
                     advanced, we had no ground with 60, and therefore were obliged to push on
                     farther. The weather was delightfully fair, and genially warm, when compared to
                     what we had lately experienced; and we glided along by insensible degrees,
                     wafted by light airs, past numerous rocky islands, each of which was covered
                     with wood and shrubberies, where numerous evergreens were sweetly contrasted
                     and mingled with the various shades of autumnal yellow. Flocks of aquatic birds
                     enlivened the rocky shores, and the whole country resounded with the wild notes
                     of the feathered tribe. We had long and eagerly wished for the land and its
                     vegetable productions, and therefore could not but eye the prospect before us
                     with peculiar delight, and with emotions of joy and satisfaction which were
                     strongly marked in the countenance of each individual.</p>

                  <p n="176">About <time>three o'clock in the afternoon</time>, we dropped an anchor
                     under a point of an island, where we were in some measure sheltered from the
                     sea, and so near the shore, as to reach it with a hawser. The sloop was no
                     sooner in safety, than every sailor put his hook and line overboard, and in a
                     few moments numbers of fine fish were hauled up on all parts of the vessel,
                     which heightened the raptures we had already felt at our entrance into this
                     bay. The real good taste of the fish, joined to our long abstinence, inclined
                     us to look upon our first meal here, as the most delicious we had ever made in
                     our lives. The view of rude sceneries in the style of <hi rend="italics">Rosa</hi>, of antediluvian forests which cloathed the rock, and of
                     numerous rills of water, which every where rolled down the steep declivity,
                     altogether conspired to complete our joy; and so apt is mankind, after a long
                     absence from land, to be prejudiced in favour of the wildest shore, that we
                     looked upon the country at that time, as one of the most beautiful which nature
                     unassisted by art could produce. Such are the general ideas of travellers and
                     voyagers long exhausted by distresses; and with such warmth of imagination they
                     have viewed the rude cliffs of <placeName>Juan Fernandez</placeName>, and the
                     impenetrable forests of <placeName>Tinian</placeName>!</p>

                  <p n="177">Immediately after dinner two boats were sent out to reconnoitre
                     different parts of the bay, and chiefly to look for a safe harbour for our
                     vessel, the first anchoring-place being open, inconvenient, and only serving
                     the necessity of the moment. We improved these opportunities of pursuing our
                     researches in natural history, and separated in order to profit by both
                     excursions. Each of the parties found convenient and well-sheltered harbours,
                     with plenty of wood and water; and wherever they went they met with such
                     abundance of fish and water-fowl, that they entertained hopes of a constant
                     supply of refreshments during their stay in these parts. This prospect
                     prevailed upon <persName>Capt. Cook</persName>, who had but cursorily examined
                     the southern extremities of <placeName>New-Zeeland</placeName> in his former
                     voyage, to spend some time there, in order to gain a more competent knowledge
                     of its situation and productions. On our part, we perceived a new store of
                     animal and vegetable bodies, and among them hardly any that were perfectly
                     similar to the known species, and several not analogous even to the known
                     genera. With these therefore we hoped to be wholly employed during our stay, in
                     spight of the approach of autumn, which seemed to threaten the vegetable
                     creation.</p>

                  <p n="178">
                     <date>[Saturday 27.]</date>Early the next morning, a small boat having been
                     sent out towards the shore, returned in three hours time with as many fishes,
                     caught by the hook, as supplied a plentiful dinner to all on board. The best
                     and most savoury fish was a species of the cod, which, from its external
                     colour, our sailors called a coal-fish: besides this we caught several species
                     of excellent flat cavalhas (<hi rend="italics">sciœnœ;</hi>), some scorpens,
                     mullets, horse-mackrel, and many other sorts of a fine taste, which were
                     entirely unknown in <placeName>Europe</placeName>. At <time>nine o'clock</time>
                     we got under sail and went into <placeName>Pickersgill harbour</placeName> one
                     of those examined the preceding day, where the ship was moored head and stern
                     in a small creek, and so near the shore, that we could reach it by means of a
                     stage of a few planks. Nature had assisted us for this purpose with a large
                     tree, projecting in an horizontal position over the water, of which we placed
                     the top on our gunwale, connecting our planks with it. This situation
                     facilitated all our operations, and was particularly adapted to the conveniency
                     of wooding and watering, for our sloop's yards were locked in the branches of
                     surrounding trees, and about half a musket shot a-stern we had a fine stream of
                     fresh water.</p>

                  <p n="179">We now began the clear away the woods from a neighbouring hill, in
                     order to fix the astronomer's observatory upon it, and to establish our forge
                     there, as our iron-works wanted repairs. Near the watering-place we pitched
                     tents for the sail-makers, coopers, waterers, and wood-cutters. These
                     occupations served to lower the great idea which our people had conceived of
                     this country; for the prodigious intricacy of various climbers, briars, shrubs,
                     and ferns which were interwoven throughout the forests, rendered the task of
                     clearing the ground extremely fatiguing and difficult, and almost precluded the
                     access to the interior parts of the country. It is indeed reasonable to
                     suppose, that in the southern parts of <placeName>New-Zeeland</placeName>, the
                     forests have never been touched by human industry, but have remained in the
                     rude unimproved state of nature since their first existence. Our excursions
                     into them gave us sufficient grounds for this supposition; for not only the
                     climbing plants and shrubs obstructed our passage, but likewise numbers of
                     rotten trees lay in our way, felled by winds and old age. A new generation of
                     young trees, of parasitic plants, ferns, and mosses sprouted out of the rich
                     mould to which this old timber was reduced by length of time, and a deceitful
                     bark sometimes still covered the interior rotten substance, whereon if we
                     attempted to step, we sunk in to the waist. The animal creation afforded
                     another proof that this country had not yet undergone any changes from the
                     hands of mankind, and indeed at first raised the idea, that <placeName>Dusky
                        Bay</placeName> was wholly uninhabited. Numbers of small birds which dwelt
                     in the woods were so little acquainted with men, that they familiarly hopped
                     upon the nearest branches, nay on the ends of our fowling-pieces, and perhaps
                     looked at us as new objects, with a curiosity similar to our own. This little
                     boldness in reality at first protected them from harm, since it was impossible
                     to shoot them when they approached so near; but in a few days it frequently
                     proved the means of their destruction; for a sly cat on board, had no sooner
                     perceived so excellent an opportunity of obtaining delicious meals, than she
                     regularly took a walk in the woods every morning, and made great havock among
                     the little birds, that were not aware of such an insidious enemy.</p>

                  <p n="180">As we had plenty of fish, and saw a number of water-birds which might
                     afford us a variety of animal food, some of our botanical excursions were in a
                     great measure instituted in search of useful vegetables, to be eaten as greens.
                     From thence the most salutary effects might be expected, by a set of people who
                     had been above seventeen weeks at sea, and whose blood must have been more or
                     less corrupted by living so long on salt provisions.</p>

                  <p n="181">On the first day after our arrival we found a beautiful tree in flower,
                     something related to the myrtle-genus, of which an infusion had been drank
                     instead of tea in <persName>Capt. Cook's</persName> former voyage. We
                     immediately repeated the experiment with great eagerness, as we had not yet
                     seen any plant which was fit to be used at our tables. Its leaves were finely
                     aromatic, astringent, and had a particular pleasant flavour at the first
                     infusion; but this fine taste went off at the next filling up of the tea-pot,
                     and a great degree of bitterness was then extracted. We therefore never
                     suffered it to be twice infused. The use of this plant, which became general
                     among our crew, probably contributed greatly to restore their strength, and to
                     remove all scorbutic symptoms. A plant, which might be of service to future
                     navigators, deserved to be drawn, in order that they might know it again. We
                     have therefore very readily permitted <persName>Captain Cook</persName> to make
                     use of our drawing of it, from which a plate has been engraved by order of the
                     Admiralty, intended to accompany his own account of this voyage. In a fine soil
                     in thick forests it grows to a considerable tree, sometimes thirty or forty
                     feet high, and above a foot in diameter; on a hilly arid exposure I have, on
                     the contrary, found it as a little shrub, six inches high, which bore flowers
                     and seed; but its usual size is about eight or ten feet, and about three inches
                     in diameter. In that case its stem is irregular and unequal, dividing very soon
                     into branches which rise at acute angles, and only bear leaves and flowers at
                     top. The flowers are white and very ornamental to the whole plant. Another
                     tree, which grew in great plenty round about us, was likewise tried, and
                     afforded a good infusion; but the resemblance it bore to the trees of the fir
                     tribe, and a kind of resinous taste, soon convinced us that it was fitter to
                     serve the purposes of the American spruce-tree, and that a palatable and
                     wholesome liquor might be brewed from it, as a kind of substitute for
                        spruce-beer<ref target="#edn45">
                        <note xml:id="edn45" anchored="true"> This useful plant deserves a
                           description for the benefit of the navigator, but, notwithstanding all
                           our researches, we could never find it either in flower or in fruit,
                           owing to the unfavourable seasons in which we visited
                              <placeName>New-Zeeland</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>. In effect, with the addition of the inspissated juice of wort, and of
                     some molasses, we brewed a very good sort of beer, which we improved very
                     considerably afterwards, by correcting the too great astringency of our new
                     spruce, with an equal quantity of the new tea-tree. Its taste was pleasant, and
                     something bitter; and the only fault we could observe in it was, that being
                     taken on an empty stomach, it frequently caused a nausea or sickness; but in
                     all other respects it proved a very salutary drink. The spruce of
                        <placeName>New-Zeeland</placeName> is a very beautiful tree, and conspicuous
                     on account of its pendant branches, which are loaded with numerous long
                     thread-like leaves, of a vivid green. It frequently grows to the height of
                     fifty or sixty, and even one hundred feet, and has above ten feet in girth.
                     Though the spruce and the tea-trees alone afforded articles of refreshment in
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>; yet we found the woods full of trees of
                     various kinds, very fit for the use of shipwrights, joiners, and other
                     mechanics; and <persName>Capt. Cook</persName> was of opinion that, except in
                     the river Thames on the northern island, he had not observed a finer growth of
                     timber on all <placeName>New-Zeeland</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="182">
                     <date>[Sunday 28.]</date>We had not been above two days in this bay, before we
                     found that our opinion of its being uninhabited was premature. On the 28th in
                     the morning several of our officers went a shooting in a small boat, and on
                     entering a cove two or three miles from the ship, perceived several natives
                     upon a beach, who were about to launch their canoe. The New Zeelanders halloo'd
                     at their approach, and seeming by this means more numerous than they really
                     were, the officers thought proper to return and acquaint the captain with their
                     discovery; a step which they found the more necessary, as the weather was very
                     rainy, and might, in case of danger, have prevented their pieces from going
                     off. They were scarcely returned on board, when a canoe<ref target="#edn46">
                        <note xml:id="edn46" anchored="true"> We shall always make use of this word
                           to signify an Indian embarkation, unless we mean to describe or specify
                           it more particularly. </note>
                     </ref> appeared off a point, at about a mile's distance from the sloop; there
                     were seven or eight people in it, who looked at us for some time, but
                     notwithstanding all the signs of friendship which we could make, such as
                     calling to them to come to us, waving a white cloth, and promising beads, they
                     did not care to come nearer, and paddled back again the same way they came.
                     They appeared to be dressed in mats, and had broad paddles with which they
                     managed their canoe, like the inhabitants in the northern parts of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>
                     resolved to visit them in the afternoon, in order to quiet the apprehension
                     which they seemed to have entertained. We went in two boats, accompanying him
                     and several of the officers into the cove, where the natives had been first
                     seen. Here we found a double canoe hauled upon the shore, near some old, low
                     huts, about which we saw vestiges of fire places, some fishing-nets, and a few
                     scattered fish. The canoe which appeared to be old and in bad order, consisted
                     of two troughs or boats joined together with sticks, tied across the gunwales
                     with strings of the <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> flax-plant<ref target="#edn47">
                        <note xml:id="edn47" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           Compilation, vol. III, p. 443. </note>
                     </ref>. Each part consisted of planks sowed together with ropes made of the
                     flax-plant, and had a carved head coarsely representing a human face, with eyes
                     made of round pieces of ear-shell, which somewhat resembled mother of pearl.
                     This canoe contained two paddles, a basket full of berries of the <hi rend="italics">coriaria ruscifolia</hi> Lin. and some fishes; but the
                     natives were not to be seen or heard, which gave us reason to believe that they
                     had retired into the woods. To conciliate their good will, we left some medals,
                     looking-glasses, beads, &amp;c. in the canoe, and embarked again after a short
                     stay. We then rowed to the head of the cove, in order to survey it, where we
                     found a fine brook of fresh water coming down on a flat beach, from whence the
                     water continued shallow to a considerable extent, so that our boat ran aground
                     several times. Ducks, shags, black oyster-catchers, and some sorts of plovers
                     were very numerous here. At our return we visited the canoe again, added a
                     hatchet to the other presents which we had left before, and to shew the use of
                     it, we cut several chips out of a tree, and left it sticking there. No natives
                     appeared this second time, though we imagined they could not be far off, as we
                     thought we could smell the smoke of a fire. However, <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> desisted at present from searching in the woods, since they
                     purposely avoided us, and choosing to leave it to time and their own free will
                     to cultivate an intercourse with us, <date>[Monday 29.]</date>he returned on
                     board late in the evening.</p>

                  <p n="183">Heavy showers of rain fell all the next morning, but intermitted in the
                     afternoon, giving us an opportunity of going into the woods above our cove,
                     where the rains had so thoroughly soaked the soil, that together with the other
                     impediments in walking in this country, the prodigious slipperiness rendered
                     our excursion laborious and fatiguing. We met however with a few plants, which
                     still shewed some late blossoms, notwithstanding the advanced season; but we
                     were at the same time greatly tantalized by the appearance of numerous trees
                     and shrubs, which had already lost their flowers and fruits, and only served to
                     give us an idea of the great profusion of new vegetables in this country.</p>

                  <p n="184">The two following days we were entirely confined on board, on account
                     of the rain and stormy weather; which not a little damped our spirits, and gave
                     us reason to fear we should spend the remainder of our time very disagreeably.
                        <date>[1773. April.] [Thursday 1.]</date>However, on the 1st of April in the
                     afternoon, we took the advantage of a lucid interval to make another visit to
                     the cove where we had seen the Indians. We found every thing in the same
                     situation as we had left it, and it did not appear that any person had been
                     near the canoe since that time. The weather being now fair, we saw this cove in
                     all its perfection. It is so spacious that a whole fleet of ships may lie at
                     anchor in it, and some of the loftiest hills in all the bay encompass it on the
                     south-west side, and are entirely covered with woods from the summit to the
                     water's side. The different projecting points, and the various islands in the
                     bay, form altogether a picturesque and pleasing scene. The smoothness of the
                     water, illumined by the setting sun, the different degrees of verdure, and the
                     various notes of birds which resounded throughout the whole cove during this
                     calm evening, greatly softened the rude, uncultivated outlines of this
                     landscape.</p>

                  <p n="185">The pleasure we had enjoyed in the evening, induced us to return to the
                     cove again the next day, which continued to be perfectly fair. We set out at
                     sun-rise, and did not return till late in the evening, with a considerable
                     acquisition of new birds, and plants. We had a young dog with us at this time,
                     which the officers had taken on board at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>, and intended to try, whether we could not train him up to
                     the gun: but we had no sooner discharged the first fowling-piece, than he ran
                     into the woods, and would not return, though we used all possible means to
                     recover him. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> likewise took the opportunity of
                     the fair weather, to examine different parts of the bay; and touched at a
                     little rock, near our first anchoring place, which had already at that time
                     acquired the name of <placeName>Seal-rock</placeName>, from the animals that
                     came to sleep upon it. Here he found a number of seals, and killed three of
                     them, among which one afforded him great sport: for having been repeatedly
                     wounded, it became quite furious, and attacked the boat, where it was at last
                     killed. It weighed 220 pounds, was about six feet long, and very lean. After he
                     had passed several isles, he reached the north-west part of the bay, formed by
                     the land of <placeName>Point Five-fingers</placeName>: there, at the bottom of
                     a fine cove, he found a great variety of acquatic birds, of which he killed and
                     brought on board a considerable number.</p>

                  <p n="186">Another rainy pause of three days followed this excursion, confining us
                     to our ship, where a sort of little crane-flies (<hi rend="italics">tipula
                        alis incumbentibus</hi>), which had plagued us ever since our entrance
                     into <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, became remarkably troublesome during the
                     bad weather. They were numerous in the skirts of the woods, not half so large
                     as gnats or musketoes, and our sailors called them sand-flies. Their sting was
                     extremely painful, and as often as the hand or face grew warm, caused a
                     troublesome itching, the least irritation of which brought on a very violent
                     swelling, attended with great pain. We were, however, not all equally affected;
                     myself in particular, never felt any great inconvenience from them; others, on
                     the contrary, suffered in a very violent degree, especially my father, who
                     could not hold a pen to write down the common occurrences in a journal, and
                     fell into a high fever at night. Various remedies were tried, but all proved
                     ineffectual, except the simple unction with soft pomatum, and the constant use
                     of gloves.</p>

                  <p n="187">
                     <date>[Tuesday 6.]</date>Early on the 6th, several of the officers went into
                     the cove, which the captain had discovered on the 2d; and the latter,
                     accompanied by <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, my father, and myself proceeded in another boat, to
                     continue the survey of the bay, to copy views from nature, and to search for
                     the natural productions of the country. We directed our course to the north
                     side, where we found a fine spacious cove, from which we had not the least
                     prospect of the sea. Along its steep shores we observed several small but
                     beautiful cascades, which fell from vast heights, and greatly improved the
                     scene; they gushed out through the midst of the woods, and at last fell in a
                     clear column, to which a ship might lie so near, as to fill her casks on board
                     with the greatest safety, by means of a leather tube, which the sailors call a
                     hose. At the bottom there was a shallow muddy part, with a little beach of
                     shell-sand, and a brook, as in all the greater coves of the bay. In this fine
                     place we found a number of wild fowl, and particularly wild ducks of which we
                     shot fourteen, from whence we gave it the name of <placeName>Duck
                        Cove</placeName>. As we were returning home, we heard a loud hallooing on
                     the rocky point of an island, which on this occasion obtained the name of
                        <placeName>Indian Island</placeName>; and standing in to the shore, we
                     perceived one of the natives, from whom this noise proceeded. He stood with a
                     club or battle-axe in his hand, on a projecting point, and behind him, on the
                     skirts of the wood we saw two women, each of them having a long spear. When our
                     boat came to the foot of the rock, we called to him, in the language of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, <hi rend="italics">tayo,</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">harre maï</hi>, " friend, come hither;" he did not,
                     however, stir from his post, but held a long speech, at certain intervals
                     pronouncing it with great earnestness and vehemence, and swinging round his
                     club, on which he leaned at other times. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> went
                     to the head of the boat, called to him in a friendly manner, and threw him his
                     own and some other handkerchiefs, which he would not pick up. The captain then
                     taking some sheets of white paper in his hand, landed on the rock unarmed, and
                     held the paper out to the native. The man now trembled very visibly, and having
                     exhibited strong marks of fear in his countenance, took the paper: upon which
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> coming up to him, took hold of his hand,
                     and embraced him, touching the man's nose with his own, which is their mode of
                     salutation. His apprehension was by this means dissipated, and he called to the
                     two women, who came and joined him, while several of us landed to keep the
                     captain company. A short conversation ensued, of which very little was
                     understood on both sides, for want of a competent knowledge of the language.
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> immediately took sketches of their
                     countenances, and their gestures shewed that they clearly understood what he
                     was doing; on which they called him <hi rend="italics">óä-óä</hi>, that term
                     being probably applicable to the imitative arts. The man's countenance was very
                     pleasing and open; one of the women, which we afterwards believed to be his
                     daughter, was not wholly so disagreeable as one might have expected in
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, but the other was remarkably ugly, and
                     had a prodigious excrescence on her upper lip. They were all of a dark brown or
                     olive complexion; their hair was black, and curling, and smeared with oil and
                     ruddle; the man wore his tied upon the crown of the head, but the women had it
                     cut short. Their bodies were tolerably well proportioned in the upper part; but
                     they had remarkable slender, ill-made, and bandy legs. Their dress consisted of
                     mats made of the <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> flax-plant<ref target="#edn48">
                        <note xml:id="edn48" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           Compilation, vol. III. p. 443. </note>
                     </ref>, interwoven with feathers; and in their ears they wore small pieces of
                     white albatross skins stained with ruddle or ochre. We offered them some fishes
                     and wild fowl, but they threw them back to us, intimating that they did not
                     want provisions. The approaching night obliged us to retire, not without
                     promising our new friends a visit the next morning. The man remained silent,
                     and looked after us with composure and great attention, which seemed to speak a
                     profound meditation; but the youngest of the two women, whose vociferous
                     volubility of tongue exceeded every thing we had met with, began to dance at
                     our departure, and continued to be as loud as ever. Our seamen passed several
                     coarse jests on this occasion, but nothing was more obvious to us than the
                     general drift of nature, which not only provided man with a partner to
                     alleviate his cares and sweeten his labours, but endowed that partner likewise
                     with a desire of pleasing by a superior degree of vivacity and affability.</p>

                  <p n="188">
                     <date>[Wednesday 7.]</date>The next morning we returned to the natives, and
                     presented them with several articles which we had brought with us for that
                     purpose. But so much was the judgment of the man superior to that of his
                     countrymen, and most of the South Sea nations<ref target="#edn49">
                        <note xml:id="edn49" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           Compilation. </note>
                     </ref>, that he received almost every thing with indifference, except what he
                     immediately conceived the use of, such as hatchets and large spike-nails. At
                     this interview he introduced his whole family to us, consisting of two women,
                     whom we supposed to be his wives; the young woman, a boy of about fourteen
                     years of age, and three smaller children, of which the youngest was at the
                     breast. One of the wives had the excrescence or wen on the upper lip, and was
                     evidently neglected by the man, probably on account of her disagreeable
                     appearance. They conducted us soon after to their habitation, which lay but a
                     few yards within the wood, on a low hill, and consisted of two mean huts, made
                     of a few sticks thatched with unprepared leaves of the flax-plant, and covered
                     with the bark of trees. In return for our presents they parted with several of
                     their ornaments and weapons, particularly the battle-axes, but they did not
                     choose to give us their spears. When we were preparing to re-embark, the man
                     came to the water-side, and presented to <persName>Captain Cook</persName> a
                     dress made of the flax plant, a belt of weeds, some beads made of a little
                     bird's bones, and some albatross skins. We were at first of opinion that these
                     were only intended as a retribution for what he had received, but he soon
                     undeceived us by shewing a strong desire of possessing one of our
                        boat-cloaks<ref target="#edn50">
                        <note xml:id="edn50" anchored="true"> Boat-cloaks are commonly of prodigious
                           dimensions and great width, so that the whole body may be wrapped into
                           them several times. </note>
                     </ref>. We were not charitable enough to part with our cloaths, when we knew
                     the deficiency could not be supplied again; but as soon as we came on board,
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> ordered a large cloak to be made of red
                     baize, which we brought to the man at our next visit.</p>

                  <p n="189">
                     <date>[Thursday 8.]</date>The rain prevented our going to him the next morning,
                     but in the afternoon, the weather being a little more promising, we returned to
                        <placeName>Indian Island</placeName>. However, at our approach, instead of
                     being welcomed by the natives on the shore, we saw none of them, and received
                     no answer when we shouted to them. We landed therefore, and having proceeded to
                     their habitation, soon found the reason of this unusual behaviour. They were
                     preparing to receive us in all their finery, some being already completely
                     adorned, and others still busy in dressing. Their hair was combed, tied on the
                     crown on the head, and anointed with some oil or grease; white feathers were
                     stuck in at the top; some had fillets of white feathers all round the head, and
                     others wore pieces of an albatross skin, with its fine white down in their
                     ears. Thus fitted out, they shouted at our approach, and received us standing,
                     with marks of friendship and great courtesy. The captain wore the new cloak of
                     baize on his own shoulders, and now took it off and presented the man with it;
                     he, on his part, seemed so much pleased with it, that he immediately drew out
                     of his girdle a pattoo-pattoo, or short flat club made of a great fish's bone,
                     and gave it to the Captain in return for so valuable an acquisition. We
                     endeavoured to enter into conversation; but, though <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> had taken <persName>Gibson</persName>, the corporal of
                     marines, with him for that purpose, he being supposed to know more of the
                        language<ref target="#edn51">
                        <note xml:id="edn51" anchored="true"> He was particularly versed in the
                           language of the <placeName>isle of O-Taheitee</placeName>; and there is
                           only a difference of dialect between it and the language of
                              <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref> than any other person on board, yet all our attempts to be understood
                     proved fruitless, because it seemed this family had a peculiar harshness of
                     pronunciation. We therefore took leave of them, and proceeded to survey
                     different parts of the bay, fishing at intervals, shooting birds, and
                     collecting shells, and other marine productions among the rocks. The weather
                     was cloudy all this time, though it did not rain where we were; but when we
                     returned to our ship's cove, we were told it had rained there incessantly in
                     our absence. The same observation we had frequent opportunities of making
                     during our sojourn in <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>. The probable cause of
                     this difference of weather at such little distances, are the high mountains
                     which run along the south shore of the bay, gradually sloping towards the west
                     cape. These mountains being almost constantly capped with clouds, our cove,
                     which lay immediately under, and was surrounded by them, was of course exposed
                     to the vapours, which perpetually appeared moving with various velocities along
                     the sides of the hills, involving the tops of the trees over which they passed
                     in a kind of white semi-opaque mist, and descending upon us at last in rains or
                     in fogs which wetted us to the skin. The isles in the northern part not having
                     such high hills to attract and stop the clouds coming from the sea, permitted
                     them to pass freely on to the very bottom of the bay to the
                        <placeName>Alps</placeName>, which we saw covered with perpetual snow. The
                     two next days the rains were so heavy that no work could be done; the perpetual
                     moisture which descended in this place caused such a dampness in all parts of
                     our vessel, as could not fail to become very unwholesome, and to destroy all
                     the collections of plants which had been made. Our sloop lying so near the
                     shore, which was steep and shaggy with over-hanging woods, was involved in
                     almost constant darkness, even in fair weather, and much more so during the
                     fogs and rains, so that we were obliged to light candles at noon. But the
                     constant supply of fresh fish considerably alleviated these disagreeable
                     circumstances, and, together with the spruce-beer and the myrtle-tea,
                     contributed to keep us healthy and strong even in this damp climate. We were
                     now indeed become perfect <hi rend="italics">ichthyophagi</hi>, for many
                     amongst us entirely lived upon fish. The fear of being cloyed with this
                     delicious food, often set us at work to invent new methods of preparing it, in
                     order to deceive the palate; and we accordingly made soups, and pasties,
                     boiled, fried, roasted, and stewed our fishes. But it was pleasant to observe,
                     that all the arts of cookery only tended to surfeit the sooner, for those who
                     wisely confined themselves to plain boiling in sea water, always did honour to
                     their meals;</p>

                  <p n="190">
                     <q>
                        <l>As if increase of appetite had grown</l>
                        <l>By what it fed on.</l> _______<persName>Shakespeare</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="191">But what was more singular than all, was, that in order to prevent any
                     dislike to our food, we confined ourselves, among a great variety of different
                     sorts, chiefly to one species of fishes, which our sailors from its dark
                     colour, called the coal-fish, and which in taste nearly resembled our English
                     cod, being of the same genus. Its meat was firm, juicy, and nutritive; but not
                     so rich and fat as that of many other species, which we found very delicious,
                     but could not continually feed upon. A very fine species of crayfish (<hi rend="italics">cancer homarus</hi> Lin.) larger than the lobster, some
                     shell-fish, and now and then a cormorant, duck, pigeon, or parrot gave us an
                     agreeable variety at our table, which, compared to its appearance when at sea,
                     was now luxurious and profuse.</p>

                  <p n="192">Every person in our sloop experienced the good effects of this change
                     of diet; nay every animal on board seemed to be benefited by it, except our
                     sheep, which were not likely to fare so well as ourselves. The nature of the
                     country accounts for this disagreeable circumstance. The whole southern
                     extremity of <placeName>Tavai-poe-namoo</placeName>, or the southern island of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and especially the land about
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> consists entirely of steep rocky mountains,
                     with craggy precipices, clad with thick forests, and either barren or covered
                     with snow on their summits. No meadows and lawns are to be met with, and the
                     only flat land we found, was situated at the head of deep coves, where a brook
                     fell into the sea, which probably by depositing the earth and stones it brought
                     from the hills, had formed this low and level ground. But even there the whole
                     was over-run with woods and briars, and we could not find a single spot of
                     ground which might have afforded pasture, the grass which grew on some beaches
                     being very hard and coarse. However, after we had taken pains to furnish our
                     sheep with the freshest sprouts which we could meet with, we were surprised
                     that they would not touch any of them: but upon examination we found that their
                     teeth were loose, and that many of them had every symptom of an inveterate sea
                     scurvy. Of four ewes and two rams which <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     brought from the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, with an intent to
                     put them on shore in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, we had only been able
                     to preserve one of each sex, and these were in so wretched a condition, that
                     their further preservation was very doubtful. If future navigators means to
                     make such valuable presents, as cattle of any sort to the inhabitants of the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, the only probable method of bringing them
                     safely thither, would be to take the shortest route possible from the Cape to
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, in the middle latitudes, and in the best
                     of seasons, when they may expect a quick passage, and no severe cold.</p>

                  <p n="193">On the 11th, the sky being clear and serene promised a fair day, which
                     was very much wanted, in order to dry our sails and linen, as we had not been
                     able to do either since our arrival in this bay. We likewise obtained the use
                     of a boat, in order to increase the number of our observations on the
                     productions of nature. We directed our course to the cove where we had seen the
                     first canoe of the natives, and particularly to a water-fall, which we had
                     observed from afar a few days ago, and which had induced us to call this inlet
                        <placeName>Cascade Cove</placeName>. This water-fall, at the distance of a
                     mile and a half, seems to be but inconsiderable, on account of its great
                     elevation; but after climbing about two hundred yards upwards, we obtained a
                     full prospect of it, and found indeed a view of great beauty and grandeur
                     before us. The first object which strikes the beholder, is a clear column of
                     water, apparently eight of ten yards in circumference, which is projected with
                     great impetuosity from the perpendicular rock, at the height of one hundred
                     yards. Nearly at the fourth part of the whole height, this column meeting a
                     part of the same rock, which now acquires a little inclination, spreads on its
                     broad back into a limpid sheet of about twenty-five yards in width. Here its
                     surface is curled, and dashes upon every little eminence in its rapid descent,
                     till it is all collected in a fine bason about sixty yards in circuit, included
                     on three sides by the natural walls of the rocky chasm, and in front by huge
                     masses of stone irregularly piled above each other. Between them the stream
                     finds its way, and runs foaming with the greatest rapidity along the slope of
                     the hill to the sea. The whole neighbourhood of the cascade, to a distance of
                     an hundred yards around, is filled with the steam or watery vapour formed by
                     the violence of the fall. This mist however was so thick, that it penetrated
                     our clothes in a few minutes, as effectually as a shower of rain would have
                     done. We mounted on the highest stone before the bason, and looking down into
                     it, were struck with the sight of a most beautiful rainbow of a perfectly
                     circular form, which was produced by the meridian rays of the sun refracted in
                     the vapour of the cascade. Beyond this circle the rest of the steam was tinged
                     with the prismatic colours, refracted in an inverted order. The scenery on the
                     left consists of steep, brown rocks, fringed on the summits with over-hanging
                     shrubs and trees; on the right there is a vast heap of large stones, probably
                     hurried down from the impending mountain's brow, by the force of the torrent.
                     From thence rises a sloping bank, about seventy-five yards high, on which a
                     wall of twenty-five yards perpendicular is placed, crowned with verdure and
                     shrubberies. Still farther to the right, the broken rocks are clothed with
                     mosses, ferns, grasses, and various flowers; nay several shrubs, and trees to
                     the height of forty feet, rise on both sides of the stream, and hide its course
                     from the sun. The noise of the cascade is so loud, and so repeatedly
                     reverberated from the echoing rocks, that it drowns almost every other sound;
                     the birds seemed to retire from it to a little distance, where the shrill notes
                     of thrushes, the graver pipe of wattle-birds, and the enchanting melody of
                     various creepers resounded on all sides, and completed the beauty of this wild
                     and romantic spot. On turning round we beheld an extensive bay, strewed as it
                     were with small islands, which are covered with lofty trees; beyond them on one
                     side, the mountains rise majestic on the main land, capt with clouds and
                     perpetual snow; and on the other, the immense ocean bounded our view. The
                     grandeur of this scene was such, that the powers of description fall short of
                     the force and beauty of nature, which could only be truly imitated by the
                     pencil of <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, who went on this voyage with us; and
                     whose performances do great credit and honour to his judgment and execution, as
                     well as to the choice of his employers. Satisfied with the contemplation of
                     this magnificent sight, we directed our attention next to the flowers which
                     enlivened the ground, and the small birds which sung very cheerfully all round
                     us. We had as yet found neither the vegetable nor animal creation so beautiful,
                     or so numerous, in any part of this bay; perhaps, because the strong refraction
                     of the sun-beams from the perpendilar walls of rock, and the shelter from
                     storms, made the climate considerably more mild and genial in this spot than in
                     any other part. The soil was in nothing different here from that in other parts
                     round the bay, but seemed to be the same vegetable mould; and the rocks and
                     stones about the cascade consisted of masses of granite, or moor-stone (<hi rend="italics">saxum</hi>), and of a kind of brown talcous clay-stone, in
                     strata, which is common to all <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="194">We returned on board before sun-set, well pleased with our acquisitions
                     during this excursion. At our return we were told, that the Indian family, whom
                     we had seen paddling into the cove, in the morning, in their best attire, had
                     gradually approached the ship with great caution. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> meeting them in a boat, quitted it, and went into their
                     canoe, but could not prevail on them to come along side of the ship, and was
                     obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they went
                     ashore, in a little creek hard by ours, and afterwards came and sat down on the
                     shore abreast of the vessel, to which they were near enough to be heard, and
                     spoken to. The captain gave orders to play the fife and bagpipe, and to beat
                     the drum; but they entirely disregarded the two first, and were not very
                     attentive to the last, nor could any thing induce them to come on board.
                     Several of our officers and seamen then going on shore to them, were received
                     with great good-nature, and attempted to converse with them by signs, which
                     were for the most part unintelligible, or misunderstood. However, the young
                     woman shewed a great partiality to a young seaman, and from her gestures it was
                     supposed she took him for one of her own sex; but whether he had taken some
                     improper liberties, or whether she had any other reason to be disgusted, she
                     would never suffer him to come near her afterwards. We likewise went on shore
                     to them, after returning from our excursion, and the man desiring us to sit
                     down by him, frequently pointed at our boats that plyed between the ship and
                     the shore, and it appeared that he was desirous of possessing one of them. They
                     staid all night about a hundred yards from our watering place, lighted a fire,
                     and dressed some fish there, thus evidently placing great confidence in us. In
                     the evening a party of officers set out in a small boat, to the north side of
                     the bay, where they intended to pass the night, and continue shooting all the
                     next day.</p>

                  <p n="195">
                     <date>[Monday 12.]</date>
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, accompanied by my father, went in his boat
                     the next morning, to survey the rocks and isles in the mouth of the bay. They
                     entered a fine snug cove, on the S. E. side of the island, under which we had
                     found our first anchorage, and which was therefore named <placeName>Anchor
                        Island</placeName>. Here they sat down by the side of a pleasant brook, and
                     made a slight repast on some boiled craw-fish, which they had brought with
                     them. From thence they proceeded to the outermost islands, where they
                     discovered a number of seals on the rocks, shot fourteen of them with ball,
                     which they carried away with them, and might have killed many more had the surf
                     permitted them to land upon all the rocks in safety. The seals in
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> are all of the species called sea-bears<ref target="#edn52">
                        <note xml:id="edn52" anchored="true"> Phoca ursina <hi rend="italics">Linn</hi>. Ursine Seal, <hi rend="italics">Pennant. Syn.
                              Quad</hi>. 271. </note>
                     </ref>, which professor <persName>Steller</persName> first described on
                        <placeName>Bering's Island</placeName> near
                        <placeName>Kamtchatka</placeName>, and which are consequently common to both
                     hemispheres. They are very numerous on the southern extremities of the
                     continents of <placeName>America</placeName> and <placeName>Africa</placeName>,
                     likewise at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and on <placeName>Diemen's
                        Land</placeName>. The only difference we could perceive between these at
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, and those described at
                        <placeName>Kamtchatka</placeName>, consisted in the size, in respect of
                     which ours were inferior. They found it difficult to kill them, and many,
                     though grievously wounded, escaped into the sea, and tinged the rocks and the
                     water with their blood. Their meat, which is almost black, and their heart and
                     liver were eatable, the former, by the help of a good appetite, and a little
                     imagination, might be eaten for beef, and the last were perfectly similar to a
                     calf's pluck. We were, however, obliged to cut away every bit of fat, before we
                     dressed the meat, which otherwise had an insupportable taste of train-oil.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> availed himself of this opportunity of
                     laying in a provision of lamp-oil, which was boiled out of the seals fat: he
                     also ordered the skins to be made use of for repairing our rigging.</p>

                  <p n="196">
                     <date>[Tuesday 13.]</date>The success of the preceding day encouraged him to
                     make another trip to the <placeName>Seal Islands</placeName>, on which my
                     father accompanied him again; but the sea ran so very high, that it was by no
                     means practicable to come near, and much less to land on them. With a great
                     deal of difficulty they weathered the S.W. point of <placeName>Anchor
                        Island</placeName>, where the sea tumbled in with great impetuosity, and was
                     so much agitated, as to affect the mariners with sickness. They then rowed
                     along the north shore of that island, where the captain landed to take the
                     bearings of different points. It happened very fortunately, that they had taken
                     this route; for they now discovered the small boat adrift, which set off from
                     the sloop on the 11th in the evening, and laid hold of it the moment before it
                     was going to be dashed against the rocks. The boat was immediately secured in a
                     small creek, and after refreshing the people with some provisions which they
                     found in it, <persName>captain Cook</persName> proceeded to the place where he
                     supposed the party of officers to be, from whom it was drifted away. Between
                        <time>seven and eight in the evening</time> they reached the cove, and found
                     them on a small island, to which they could not then approach, because the tide
                     had left it. They landed therefore on an adjacent point, and after many
                     fruitless attempts, at length succeeded in making a fire. Here they broiled
                     some fish, and after supper lay down; the stony beach was their bed, and their
                     covering the canopy of heaven.</p>

                  <p n="197">At <time>three o'clock in the morning</time> the tide permitted them to
                     take the sportsmen from their barren island; after which they immediately
                     sailed with a fair wind, accompanied with showers of rain, to the cove where
                     they had secured the other boat. Here they found an immense number of petrels
                     of the bluish species, common over the whole southern ocean<ref target="#edn53">
                        <note xml:id="edn53" anchored="true"> See page 91. </note>
                     </ref>, some being on the wing, and others in the woods, in holes under ground
                     formed between the roots of trees and in the crevices of rocks, in places not
                     easily accessible, where they probably had their nests and young. In day time,
                     not one of them was to be seen there, the old ones then being probably out at
                     sea in quest of food. they now saw them going out for that purpose, and two
                     days ago they had been observed at the <placeName>Seal Islands</placeName>,
                     returning in the evening in order to feed their young with the food which they
                     had collected. They now heard a great variety of confused sounds coming from
                     the sides of the hill, some very acute, others like the croaking of frogs,
                     which were made by these petrels. At other times we have found innumerable
                     holes on the top of one of the <placeName>Seal Islands</placeName>, and heard
                     the young petrels making a noise in them; but as the holes communicated with
                     each other it was impossible to come at one of them. We had already frequently
                     observed the old petrels flying about us in the evening, when we returned late
                     from our excursions, but till now they had always been taken for bats. They
                     have a broad bill, and a blackish stripe across their bluish wings and body,
                     and are not so large as the common shear-water or Mank's petrel of our seas.
                     The instinct is very wonderful which actuates these birds to burrow holes under
                     ground for their young, to roam all over the ocean in quest of food for their
                     support, and to find their way to the shore when they are several hundred
                     leagues distant from it.</p>

                  <p n="198">Having replaced the sportsmen in their boat, they all proceeded to the
                     ship, which they reached at seven in the morning, not a little fatigued from
                     the night's expedition. The natives, probably foreseeing the bad weather, which
                     continued all this day, had left the place they occupied near the ship on the
                     preceding night, and had retired to their habitations on <placeName>Indian
                        Island</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="199">
                     <date>[Thursday 15.]</date>The weather cleared up a little on the 15th in the
                     morning. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> therefore set out to continue his
                     survey of the N. W. part of the bay, and we accompanied a party of officers to
                     the cove in that part where we intended to take up our quarters for the next
                     night. In our way we rowed along-side of our fishing-boat, which constantly
                     went out in the morning to provide all our crew with their dinner, and took in
                     a sail which we stood in need of. We were surprised to see the young black dog
                     in the boat with them, which ran away from us on the 2d instant; and were told,
                     that, taking their station near the shore, at day-break they had heard a very
                     piteous howling on the next point, and had found the dog, which came into the
                     boat very readily as soon as they put in shore. Though this animal had been in
                     the woods during a fortnight, yet it was by no means famished, but on the
                     contrary looked well fed and very sleek. A large species of rails, which we
                     called water-hens, and which are very numerous in this part of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, with perhaps some shell-fish on the rocks, or some dead
                     fish thrown up by the sea, had in all probability afforded it sufficient
                     support. We may from hence conclude, that as there is abundance of food for
                     carnivorous animals in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, they would probably
                     be very numerous if they existed there at all, and especially if they were
                     endowed with any degree of sagacity, like the fox, or cat tribes. In that case
                     they could not have escaped the notice of our numerous parties, nor of the
                     natives, and the latter would certainly have preserved their furrs, as a
                     valuable article of dress in their most and raw climate, for want of which they
                     now wear the skins of dogs and of birds. The question, whether <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> contained any wild quadrupeds, had engaged our attention
                     from our first arrival there. One of our people, strongly persuaded that so
                     great a country could not fail of possessing new and unknown animals, had
                     already twice reported that he had seen a brown animal, something less than a
                     jackal or little fox, about the dawn of morning, sitting on a stump of a tree
                     near our tents, and running off at his approach. But as this circumstance has
                     never been confirmed by any subsequent testimony, nothing is more probable than
                     that the want of day-light had deceived him, and that he had either observed
                     one of the numerous wood-hens, which are brown, and creep through the bushes
                     very frequently; or that one of our cats, on the watch for little birds, had
                     been mistaken for a new quadruped.</p>

                  <p n="200">Having taken the sail on board, we continued our course, and began our
                     researches in the cove, where we killed many ducks of four different species.
                     One of them was remarkably beautiful, and of the size of the eider duck. Its
                     plumage was of a blackish brown, elegantly sprinkled with white; all the
                     coverts of the wing were white, the rump and vent ferruginous, the quill and
                     tail-feathers black, and the secondaries green. Another species was nearly of
                     the size of our mallard, but all of a light-brown, every feather being edged
                     with a yellowish white, of which there was a line on the cheek and eye-brows;
                     the eyes of this sort had irides of a bright yellow, and on the wings there was
                     a spot of fine bluish green inclosed in black lines. The third sort was a
                     bluish grey whistling duck, about the size of a wigeon; its bill had a
                     remarkable membranaceous substance at the extremity on both sides, probably
                     because the bird is intended to live by sucking the worms, &amp;c. in the mud,
                     when the tide retires from the beaches. Its breast was sprinkled with
                     ferruginous feathers, and on the wings it had a large white spot. The fourth
                     and most common sort is a small brown duck, which is nearly the same as the
                     English gadwall. A little before dark, the captain, having examined all the
                     harbours which lay in his way, shot a number of wild fowl, and caught fish
                     sufficient for all our party, arrived at our rendezvous, where we had erected a
                     tent, by means of the sails and oars. Our keen appetites dispensed with the
                     arts of cookery, and our fish broiled <hi rend="italics">à l'Indienne</hi>,
                     over a strong fire, on a bit of a stick, tasted as deliciously as we could
                     desire. With this supper, and a draught of spruce-beer, of which we had carried
                     a small keg with us, we composed ourselves to sleep, and contrived to pass the
                     night, though not quite so comfortably as in our beds. The next morning a boat
                     went up to the head of the cove to start the game, which was done so
                     effectually that almost all the wild-ducks escaped, the rain having wetted all
                     our fire-arms. The captain now landed in the cove, and walked across a narrow
                     isthmus, which separates it from another cove on the north side of the
                        <placeName>Five-finger Land</placeName>. Here he found a prodigious number
                     of the water-hens before mentioned, and brought away ten couple of them, which
                     recompensed him for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through intricate
                     woods, where the water was frequently up to the waist. At <time>nine
                        o'clock</time> we were all assembled again, and set out on our return to the
                     ship; but as we continued examining every creek and harbour which we found on
                     our way, and encreasing our collection of wild-fowl, we did not return till
                        <time>seven o'clock</time> in the evening. We brought seven dozen of various
                     sorts of birds with us, among which were near thirty ducks, and immediately
                     distributed them to the several messes of officers, petty-officers, and seamen,
                     as far as they would go. We may take this opportunity to observe, that there is
                     no part of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> so well stocked with birds of all
                     kinds as <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>. We found several sorts of
                     wild-ducks, shags, corvorants, oyster-catchers or sea-pies, water or wood-hens,
                     albatrosses, gannets, gulls, pinguins, and others of the aquatic kind. The
                     land-birds were hawks, parrots, pigeons, and many lesser ones of new and
                     unknown species. The parrots were of two sorts; one small and green, and the
                     other very large, greyish-green, with a reddish breast. As the birds of that
                     genus are commonly confined to the warmer climates, we were much surprised to
                     find them in the latitude of <geo select="lat">46°</geo>, exposed to the raw
                     rainy weather, which the height of the mountains almost constantly produces in
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="201">
                     <date>[Sunday 18.]</date>The next day was so rainy, that none of us could
                     venture to stir out of the sloop; but the day after proving a very fine one, my
                     father went up the hill, along the course of the brook, from which we filled
                     our casks. About half a mile upwards, through ferns, rotten trees, and thick
                     forests, he came to a fine lake of fresh water nearly half a mile in diameter.
                     Its water was limpid and well tasted, but had acquired a brownish hue, from the
                     leaves of trees which dropped into it on all sides, he observed no other
                     inhabitant in it than a small species of fish (<hi rend="italics">esox</hi>), without scales, resembling a little trout; its colour was brown,
                     and mottled with yellowish spots in the shape of some ancient Asiatic
                     characters. The whole lake was surrounded by a thick forest, consisting of the
                     largest trees, and the mountains rose all round it in a variety of forms. The
                     environs were deserted and silent, not the least note of the common birds was
                     heard, for it was rather cold at this elevation; and not a single plant had
                     blossoms. The whole scene was perfectly fitted to inspire a kind of pleasing
                     melancholy, and to encourage hermit-meditation. The fine weather induced our
                     friends the natives to pay us another visit; they took up their quarters on the
                     same spot, where they had been this day sevennight, and when they were again
                     invited to come on board, they promised to come the next morning. In the mean
                     while they had a quarrel among themselves, the man beat the two women who were
                     supposed to be his wives; the young girl in return struck him, and then began
                     to weep. What the cause of this disagreement was, we cannot determine; but if
                     the young woman was really the man's daughter, which we could never clearly
                     understand, it should seem that the filial duties are strangely confounded
                     among them; or which is more probable, that this secluded family acted in every
                     respect, not according to the customs and regulations of a civil society, but
                     from the impulses of nature, which speak aloud against every degree of
                     oppression.</p>

                  <p n="202">
                     <date>[Monday 19.]</date>In the morning, the man resolved to come on board with
                     the young woman, but sent the rest of his family a-fishing in the canoe. He
                     walked with her round the cove, to the place where we had made a stage or
                     temporary bridge from the vessel to the shore. Before they entered upon this,
                     they were conducted to a place on the hill, where we kept our sheep and goats,
                     which they seemed to be much surprised with, and desired to possess; but as we
                     foresaw that they must die for want of proper food if we left them here, we
                     could not comply with this request. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, and my
                     father met them at the stage, and this man after saluting them with his nose
                     against theirs, gave each of them a new cloak or piece of cloth made of the
                     flax-plant, curiously interwoven with parrot's feathers, and presented the
                     captain with a piece of green nephritic stone, or <hi rend="italics">jadde</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn54">
                        <note xml:id="edn54" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 286. </note>
                     </ref>, which was formed into the blade of a hatchet. Before he stepped on the
                     bridge, he turned aside, put a piece of a bird's shin with white feathers
                     through the hole in one of his ears, and broke off a small green branch from a
                     neighbouring bush. With this he walked on, and stopping when he could just
                     reach the ship's sides with his hand, struck them and the main-shrouds several
                     times with his branch. He then began to repeat a kind of speech or prayer,
                     which seemed to have regular cadences, and to be metrically arranged as a poem;
                     his eyes were fixed upon the place he had touched, his voice was raised, and
                     his whole behaviour grave and solemn. The young woman, though at other times
                     laughing and dancing, now kept close to the man and was serious all the while
                     he spoke, which lasted about two or three minutes; at the close of his speech
                     he struck the ship's side again, threw the branch into the main chains, and
                     came abroad. This manner of delivering solemn orations, and making peace, is
                     practised by all the nations which have been seen in the South Sea before our
                     voyage, as appears from the testimonies of various voyagers. But the man and
                     woman had a spear in their hands when they were conducted on the quarter-deck;
                     there they admired every thing they saw: a few geese in our coops particularly
                     attracted their attention; a handsome cat, was likewise much courted, but they
                     always stroked it the wrong way, so as to make the hair stand upright, though
                     we showed them to do it in a contrary direction; probably they admired the
                     richness of the furr. The man looked upon every new object with surprize, but
                     as his attention could not be fixed to any one object for more than a single
                     moment, many of our works of art must have appeared to him as incomprehensible,
                     as those of nature. However, the number and strength of our decks and of other
                     parts of our vessel engrossed his admiration more than any thing else. The
                     girl, seeing <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, whose pencil she had much
                     admired, made him a present of a piece of cloth, of the same kind as those
                     which the man had given to <persName>captain Cook</persName> and my father.
                     This custom of making presents is not so usual in other parts of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, as in the tropical islands: but it appears on the
                     whole, that this family were not always guided by national customs, but took
                     such measures as prudence and integrity suggested in their situation, which
                     left them at the mercy of a greater force. We desired them to come into the
                     cabin, and after a long debate among themselves, they accepted the invitation,
                     and descended by the ladder. Here they admired every thing, and were
                     particularly pleased to learn the use of chairs, and that they might be removed
                     from place to place. They were presented with hatchets by the captain and my
                     father, and received a great number of trinkets of less value. These last the
                     man laid down in a heap, and would have gone away without them, had we not
                     reminded him of them; whereas he never let a hatchet or spike-nail go out of
                     his hand, after he had once taken hold of it. They saw us sit down to our
                     breakfast, and were seated near us; but all our intreaties could not prevail on
                     them to touch our victuals. They likewise expressly inquired where we went to
                     sleep, and the captain showed them his cot, which was suspended, at which they
                     were mightily pleased. From the cabin they proceeded to the gun-room, on the
                     deck below; and having received several presents there, they returned to the
                     captain again. The man now pulled out a little leather bag, probably of seals
                     skin, and having, with a good deal of ceremony, put in his fingers, which he
                     pulled out covered with oil, offered to anoint <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> hair; this honour was however declined, because the
                     unguent, though perhaps held as a delicious perfume, and as the most precious
                     thing the man could bestow, yet seemed to our nostrils not a little offensive;
                     and the very squalid appearances of the bag in which it was contained,
                     contributed to make it still more disgustful. <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>
                     did not escape so well; for the girl, having a tuft of feathers, dipt in oil,
                     on a string round her neck, insisted upon dressing him out with it, and he was
                     forced to wear the odoriferous present, in pure civility. We left them to amuse
                     themselves in the other parts of the ship, and set out in two boats, with the
                     captain and several officers, to examine a long inlet, which ran to the
                     east-ward, in sight of our cove. In proportion as we receded from the sea, we
                     found the mountains much higher, more steep, and barren: the trees gradually
                     diminished in height and circumference, and dwindled to shrubs, contrary to
                     what is observed in other parts of the world, where the inland countries have
                     finer forests and better timber than the sea shores. The interior ranges of
                     mountains called the <placeName>Southern Alps</placeName>, appeared very
                     distinctly, of a great height, and covered with snow on their summits. We
                     passed by a number of shady islands, which contained little coves and rivulets;
                     and on one of the projecting points, opposite the last island, we saw a fine
                     cascade falling into the water, over a steep rock, clothed with thick bushes
                     and trees. The water was perfectly calm, polished, and transparent; the
                     landscape was distinctly reflected in it, and the various romantic shapes of
                     the steep mountains, contrasted in different masses of light and shade, had an
                     admirable effect. About noon we put into a small cove, where we caught some
                     fish, and shot a few birds. From thence we rowed again till dusk, when we
                     entered a fine cove, at the extremity of this long arm, and were obliged to
                     take up our quarters on the first beach we could land upon, after being
                     prevented by shoals from proceeding to the head of the cove. There we thought
                     we perceived something similar to a smoke, but finding nothing to confirm this
                     opinion, and especially seeing no fire at night, we readily acquiesced in the
                     idea of having been deceived by some misty vapour, or other object, which we
                     might have indistinctly seen. We prepared with great alacrity to pass the night
                     here, and no one was excepted from his task on these occasions. As it may be
                     curious to know the nature of our marooning parties, as our seamen called them,
                     I shall here give some account of our proceedings this night. Having found a
                     beach to land on, with a brook, and a wood close to it, our first care was to
                     bring on shore the oars, sails, cloaks, guns, hatchets, &amp;c. not forgetting
                     a little keg of spruce-beer, and perhaps a bottle of strong liquor. The boats
                     were next secured at a grappling, and with a rope made fast to a tree on shore.
                     Some of us were then busied in collecting dry pieces of wood for fuel, which in
                     such a wet country as <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, was sometimes very
                     difficult; some erected a tent or wigwam, made of the oars and sails together
                     with strong branches of trees, in a convenient dry spot, sheltered as much as
                     possible, in case of wind and rain. Others lighted the fire in front of the
                     tent, by burning some oakum, in which they had previously rubbed a quantity of
                     gun-powder. The preparations for supper were very short: some of the sailors
                     cleaned our fishes, skinned the water-fowl, split, and lastly broiled them;
                     when they were dressed, one of the boat's gang-boards, washed clean, answered
                     the several purposes of a table, of dishes, and plates; and our fingers and
                     teeth did yeoman's service, instead of knives and forks. A keen appetite,
                     procured by strong exercise, and excited by the sharp air of the country, soon
                     taught us to overcome the ideas of indelicacy, which civilized nations connect
                     with this way of living; and we never so strongly felt how little is wanting to
                     satisfy the cravings of the stomach, and to support the existence of human
                     beings, as on these occasions. After supper we listened a while to the original
                     comic vein of our boat's crew, who huddled round the fire, made their meal, and
                     recited a number of droll stories, intermixed with hearty curses, oaths, and
                     indecent expressions, but seldom without real humour. Then strewing our tent
                     with heaps of fern leaves, and wrapping ourselves in our boat-cloaks, with our
                     guns and shooting-bags for our pillows, we composed ourselves to sleep.</p>

                  <p n="203">At day-break <persName>Captain Cook</persName> and my father, with two
                     men, went in a small boat to take a view of the head of the cove, where they
                     saw some flat land. They went on shore upon it at one corner, and ordered the
                     boat to meet them at the opposite point. They had not walked a great way before
                     they saw some wild-ducks, and, by creeping through the bushes, came near enough
                     to fire and kill one of them. The moment they had fired they heard a hideous
                     shout of several loud and piercing voices round about them from different
                     quarters. They shouted in their turn, and taking up the duck retired towards
                     the boat, which was full half a mile off. The natives continued their clamours,
                     but did not follow them; for indeed a deep branch of a river was between them,
                     and their numbers were too inconsiderable to attempt hostilities; but these
                     circumstances we only learnt in the sequel. We had in the mean while taken a
                     ramble into the woods in search of plants; but hearing the shout of the
                     natives, we embarked immediately in the remaining boat and joined the other,
                     which by this time had taken <persName>Captain Cook</persName> and my father on
                     board. We therefore proceeded up into a river, which was deep enough for the
                     boats, and amused ourselves with shooting ducks, which were here in great
                     plenty. We now saw a man, woman, and child on the left shore, and the woman
                     waved to us with a white bird's skin, probably in sign of peace and friendship.
                     On this occasion I could not help admiring, that almost all nations on our
                     globe have tacitly agreed upon the while colour, or upon green branches, as
                     tokens of a peaceable disposition, and that with these in their hands they
                     confidently rely on a stranger's placability. Perhaps this general agreement
                     had its origin anterior to the universal dispersion of the human species; this
                     will seem the more probable when it is considered, that neither the white
                     colour, nor the green boughs of a tree, have any intrinsic character, to which
                     the idea of amity is naturally and necessarily referred. Our boat being nearest
                     to these natives, <persName>Captain Cook</persName> desired the officer in it
                     to land, and accept their proferred friendship, whilst he meant to take the
                     advantage of the tide to get as high up in the river as possible. Whether the
                     officer did not understand <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> meaning, or
                     whether he was too deeply engaged with duck-shooting, we did not land; and the
                     poor people, to all appearance apprehensive of the worst consequences, from a
                     set of men who rejected their proposals of peace, fled into the woods with the
                     utmost precipitation. The Captain in the mean while rowed about half a mile
                     higher, where his boat was stopped by the violence of the stream, and by
                     several huge stones which lay across the bed of the river, and redoubled the
                     rapidity of the water. Here, however, he found a new species of ducks, the
                     fifth we had observed in <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>. Its size was
                     something less than that of a teal, the colour of a shining greenish black
                     above, and a dark sooty grey below; it had a purple cast on the head, a
                     lead-coloured bill and feet, a golden eye, and a white bar in the lesser quill
                     feathers. On <placeName>Captain Cook's</placeName> return to us, we perceived
                     two men in the woods along the bank opposite to that where we had seen the
                     friendly family. The captain endeavoured to form an acquaintance with them, but
                     when the boat came close along shore, they always retired into the woods, which
                     were so thick, that they not only covered them from our sight, but also made it
                     unadviseable to follow them. The ebbing tide obliged us to retire out of this
                     river to the place where we had spent the night; and, after breakfasting there,
                     we embarked in order to set out on our return to the Resolution. However, when
                     we had scarce put off, we perceived the two natives, who had walked across the
                     woods to an open spot, from whence they halloo'd to us. The captain immediately
                     ordered both the boats to row up to them, and coming into shallow water, he got
                     out unarmed, attended by two men, and waded to the shore, with a sheet of white
                     paper in his hand. The two natives stood about one hundred yards from the
                     water's side, each of them with a long spear in his hand. When the captain
                     advanced with his two men they retired; he then proceeded alone, but could not
                     prevail on them to lay aside their spears. At last one of them stuck his spear
                     in the ground, and taking a bunch of grass in his hand met the captain, and
                     giving him one end of the grass to hold while he kept the other, he pronounced
                     a solemn speech in a loud tone of voice, during a minute or two, in which he
                     made several pauses, perhaps waiting for a reply. As soon as this ceremony was
                     over, they saluted each other, and the New Zeelander took a new garment from
                     his own shoulders and presented it to the captain, for which he received a
                     hatchet in return. Peace and friendship being thus firmly established, the
                     other man likewise came up to salute the captain, and was presented with a
                     hatchet; and several of us came ashore to them, at which they were not the
                     least alarmed, but received every new comer with great cordiality. We now
                     perceived several other natives, probably women, on the skirts of the wood, and
                     the two men earnestly intreated us to go up to their habitations, intimating by
                     signs, that they would give us something to eat there; but the tide and other
                     circumstances did not permit us to accept their invitation. When we had taken
                     leave of them, the two men followed us to our boats, where they desired us to
                     remove the muskets which lay across the stern, and having complied with their
                     request, they came along-side, and assisted us to launch the boats, which were
                     aground on account of the ebb. We found however that it was necessary to have
                     an eye upon them, because they seemed to covet the possession of every thing
                     they saw or could lay hands on, except the muskets, which they would not touch,
                     being taught to respect them as instruments of death, on account of the havock
                     they had seen us make among the wild-fowl. We observed no canoes among them,
                     and their only means of transporting themselves across the river, was on a few
                     logs of wood connected together into a kind of raft, which was perfectly
                     sufficient for that purpose. Fish and wild-fowl were in such plenty here, that
                     they can have little occasion to roam to any distance in quest of them, as
                     their numbers did not seem to exceed three families; and the whole bay being
                     almost entirely destitute of inhabitants, one single family more excepted, they
                     need not be apprehensive of disturbance from bad neighbours. The features of
                     these men were rather wild, but not ill-favoured; their complexion resembled
                     that of the family on <placeName>Indian Island</placeName>, of a mahogany
                     brown; their hair bushy, and their beards frizled and black. They were of a
                     middling stature and stout, but their legs and thighs very slender, and their
                     knees too much swelled in proportion. Their dress and general behaviour seemed
                     to be the same as that of the other family before mentioned. The courage of
                     this people has something singular in it, for it should seem, that in spight of
                     their inferiority of force, they cannot brook the thought of hiding themselves,
                     at least not till they have made an attempt to establish an intercourse, or
                     prove the principles of the strangers who approach them. It would have been
                     impossible for us, among the numerous islands and harbours, and in the mazy
                     forests upon them, to have found out the family which we saw on the
                        <placeName>Indian Island</placeName>, if they had not discovered themselves,
                     and thus made the first advances. We might also have departed from the cove
                     without knowing that it was inhabited, if the natives had not shouted at the
                     discharge of our muskets. In both cases a certain openness and honesty, appear
                     strongly to mark their character; for if it had the least admixture of
                     treachery, they would have tried to fall upon us unawares, as they could not
                     have failed of meeting with frequent opportunities of cutting off our numerous
                     small parties, when dispersed in different parts of the woods.</p>

                  <p n="204">It was noon when we left these two men, and proceeded down on the north
                     side of the long arm, of which <persName>captain Cook</persName> took the
                     bearings in his way. The night overtook us before he had completed his survey;
                     so that we were forced to leave another arm unexplored, and to hasten to the
                     vessel, which we reached about <time>eight o'clock at night</time>. We were
                     told that the native with his companion, the young woman, had staid on board
                     till noon, after our departure; and having been informed, that we had left some
                     presents in his double canoe in <placeName>Cascade Cove</placeName>, he
                     employed some of his people to bring them away from thence, after which the
                     whole family remained in the neighbourhood of the ship till this morning. They
                     then took their departure, and we never saw them again, which was the more
                     extraordinary, as they never went away empty handed from us, but had at
                     different times received nine or ten hatchets, and four times that number of
                     large spike nails, besides other articles. As far as these things may be
                     counted riches among them, this man was the wealthiest in all <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, being possessed of more hatchets, than there were in
                     the whole country besides, before the second arrival of British vessels. The
                     thin population in this part of the island makes it probable, that the few
                     families in it lead a nomadic or wandering life, and remove according as the
                     season, the conveniency of fishing, and other circumstances render it
                     necessary. We were therefore of opinion, that our friendly family had only
                     removed upon this principle; but we were likewise told that before they went
                     away, the man had made signs of going to kill men, and employing the hatchet as
                     an offensive weapon. If this circumstance was rightly understood, we cannot
                     sufficiently wonder that a family so secluded from all the rest of the world,
                     in a spacious bay, where they have a superfluity of food, and of all the
                     necessaries of life, the fewness of their wants considered, should still have a
                     thought of warring with their fellow-creatures, when they might live peaceably
                     and happily in their retirement. The pleasing hope of facilitating the
                     œconomical operations of these people, and of encouraging some degree of
                     agriculture among them, by presenting them with useful tools, was defeated by
                     this determination. The state of barbarism, in which the New Zeelanders may
                     justly be said to live, and which generally hearkens to no other voice than
                     that of the <hi rend="italics">strongest</hi>, might make them more liable
                     than any other nation to resolve upon the destruction of their fellow-citizens,
                     as soon as an opportunity offered; and their innate and savage valour may
                     probably assist them to put such projects in execution. On this occasion, I
                     cannot omit mentioning a remarkable instance of courage which characterised the
                     old man who had now left us; our officers having fired several musquets in his
                     presence, he became desirous of discharging one himself, which they easily
                     granted; the young woman, supposed to be his daughter, fell prostrate on the
                     ground before him, and entreated him, with the strongest marks of fear, to
                     desist from his undertaking; but he was not to be diverted from his purpose,
                     and fired the musquet with the greatest resolution, repeating it afterwards
                     three or four times. This warlike disposition, together with the irascible
                     temper of the whole nation, that cannot brook the least injury, is probably the
                     cause which has induced his single family, and the few in the long inlet we had
                     visited, to separate from the rest of their fellow-creatures. All the disputes
                     of savage people commonly terminate in the destruction of one of their parties,
                     unless they evade it by a well-timed flight: this may have been the case of the
                     inhabitants of <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, and admitting it, their design
                     of going to fight, is no more than a project of being revenged on their foes
                     and oppressors.</p>

                  <p n="205">
                     <date>[Friday 23.]</date> On the 23d, early in the morning, several officers,
                     accompanied by <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, went to <placeName>Cascade
                        Cove</placeName>, in order to ascend one of the highest mountains in the
                     bay, which was situated on one side of it. About <time>two o'clock</time> they
                     reached the summit, which they made known to us by lighting a great fire there.
                     We should have accompanied them on this excursion, but a violent flux attended
                     with gripes confined us on board. It was owing to the carelessness of our cook,
                     who had suffered our copper kitchen-furniture to become full of verdigrise. In
                     the evening however, we went to meet our travellers in <placeName>Cascade
                        Cove</placeName>, and after searching the woods some time for plants and
                     birds, we brought them on board with us. At night the fire had spread in a
                     bright circular garland all round the summit of the mountain, and made a very
                     elegant illumination in honour of <persName>St. George's</persName> day. Our
                     party related that they had a prospect of the whole bay, and of the sea beyond
                     the mountains to the south, S. W. and W. N. W. for more than twenty leagues all
                     round them, the weather being remarkably fine and clear. The inland mountains
                     were very barren, and consisted of huge broken and craggy masses, all covered
                     with snow on their summits; the top of that on which they stood, afforded
                     several low shrubs and various alpine plants, which we had seen no where else.
                     A little lower down they saw a taller shrubbery; below this a space covered
                     with dry or dead trees, and next to those the living woods began, which
                     increased in size as they descended. The ascent had been fatiguing enough, on
                     account of the intricacy of briars and climbers, but the descent also was
                     dangerous, because of many precipices which they met on their way, and along
                     most of which they contrived to slide down by the help of trees and bushes. At
                     a considerable height they met with three or four trees, which they took for
                     palms, and of which they cut down one, and used its middlemost shoot for their
                     refreshment. These trees, however, were not the true cabbage palms, nor did
                     they belong at all to the class of palms, which are generally confined to more
                     temperate climates. They were properly speaking, a new species of dragon-trees,
                     with broad leaves, (<hi rend="italics">dracœna australis</hi>) of which the
                     central shoot when quite tender, tastes something like an almond's kernel, with
                     a little of the flavour of cabbage. We afterwards observed more of them in
                     other parts of this bay.</p>

                  <p n="206">The next morning I accompanied <persName>captain Cook</persName> to the
                     cove on the N.W. part of the bay, which from the transaction of this day,
                     received the name of <placeName>Goose Cove</placeName>. We had five tame geese
                     left, of those which we had taken on board at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>, and these we intended to leave in <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> to breed, and run wild. This cove was looked upon as the
                     most convenient place for that purpose, since there were no inhabitants to
                     disturb them, and because it afforded an abundance of proper food. We set them
                     on shore, and they immediately ran to feed in the mud, at the head of the cove
                     where we left them, pronouncing over them the <hi rend="italics">crescite
                        &amp; multipliciamini</hi>, for the benefit of future generations of
                     navigators and New Zeelanders. There can be little doubt indeed, but that they
                     will succeed in this secluded spot, and in time spread over the whole country,
                     answerable to our original intention. The rest of this day was spent in
                     shooting, and among the different birds killed was a white heron (<hi rend="italics">ardea alba</hi>), common to
                     <placeName>Europe</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="207">The fair weather, which had lasted eight days successively, was
                     entirely at an end on <date>[Sunday 25.]</date>the 25th, when the rain set in
                     again towards evening, and continued till the next day at noon. <date>[Monday
                        26.]</date>We had reason to believe such a continuance of dry weather very
                     uncommon in <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, and particularly at this season,
                     because we never experienced above two fair days one after another, either
                     before or after this week. We had, however, improved this opportunity to
                     complete our wood and water, and put the sloop in condition to go out to sea,
                     and having taken on board all our men, we cast off our bridge, and removed out
                     of the creek, into the middle of our cove, ready to sail with the first fair
                     wind. The superiority of a state of civilization over that of barbarism could
                     not be more clearly stated, than by the alterations and improvements we had
                     made in this place. In the course of a few days, a small part of us had cleared
                     away the woods from a surface of more than an acre, which fifty New Zeelanders,
                     with their tools of stone, could not have performed in three months. This spot,
                     where immense numbers of plants left to themselves lived and decayed by turns,
                     in one confused inanimated heap; this spot, we had converted into an active
                     scene, where a hundred and twenty men pursued various branches of employment
                     with unremitted ardour:</p>

                  <p n="208">
                     <q>
                        <l>Quales apes ӕstate nova per florea rura</l>
                        <l>Exercet sub sole labor.</l>
                        <persName>Virgil</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="209">
                     <q>
                        <l>Such was their toil, and such their busy pains,</l>
                        <l>As exercise the bees in flowery plains,</l>
                        <l>When winter past and summer scarce begun,</l>
                        <l>Invites them forth to labour in the sun.</l>
                        <persName>Dryden</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="210">We felled tall timber-trees, which, but for ourselves, had crumbled to
                     dust with age; our sawyers cut them into planks, or we split them into billets
                     for fuel. By the side of a murmuring rivulet, whose passage into the sea we
                     facilitated, a long range of casks, which had been prepared by our coopers for
                     that purpose, stood ready to be filled with water. Here ascended the steam of a
                     large cauldron, in which we brewed, from neglected indigenous plants, a
                     salutary and palatable potion, for the use of our labourers. In the offing,
                     some of our crew appeared providing a meal of delicious fish for the
                     refreshment of their fellows. Our caulkers and riggers were stationed on the
                     sides and masts of the vessel, and their occupations gave life to the scene,
                     and struck the ear with various noises, whilst the anvil on the hill resounded
                     with the strokes of the weighty hammer. Already the polite arts began to
                     flourish in this new settlement; the various tribes of animals and vegetables,
                     which dwelt in the unfrequented woods, were imitated by an artist in his
                     noviciate; and the romantic prospects of this shaggy country, lived on the
                     canvas in the glowing tints of nature, who was amazed to see herself so closely
                     copied. Nor had science disdained to visit us in this solitary spot: an
                     observatory arose in the centre of our works, filled with the most accurate
                     instruments, where the attentive eye of the astronomer contemplated the motions
                     of the celestial bodies. The plants which clothed the ground, and the wonders
                     of the animal creation, both in the forests and the seas, likewise attracted
                     the notice of philosophers, whose time was devoted to mark their differences
                     and uses. In a word, all around us we perceived the rise of arts, and the dawn
                     of science, in a country which had hitherto lain plunged in one long night of
                     ignorance and barbarism! But this pleasing picture of improvement was not to
                     last, and like a meteor, vanished as suddenly as it was formed. We re-imbarked
                     all our instruments and utensils, and left no other vestiges of our residence,
                     than a piece of ground, from whence we had cleared the wood. We sowed indeed a
                     quantity of European garden seeds of the best kinds; but it is obvious that the
                     shoots of the surrounding weeds will shortly stifle every salutary and useful
                     plant, and that in a few years our abode no longer discernible, must return to
                     its original chaotic state.</p>

                  <p n="211">A new passage out to sea, to the northward, was discovered on the 27th;
                     and it being more convenient for our purpose, than that by which we entered, we
                     weighed on <date>[Thursday 29.]</date>the 29th in the afternoon, in order to
                     stand up the bay towards it. However, the wind falling calm, we were obliged to
                     come to again in 43 fathom, under the north side of an island which we named
                        <placeName>Long Island</placeName>, about two leagues from our cove.
                        <date>[Friday 30.]</date>At nine the next morning we proceeded with a light
                     breeze at west, which with all our boats towing a-head, was scarce sufficient
                     to stem the current; for after struggling till six in the evening, we had
                     gained no more than five miles, and anchored under the same island, only a
                     hundred yards from the shore.</p>

                  <p n="212">
                     <date>[1773. May.][Saturday 1.]</date>At daylight the next morning we attempted
                     to work to windward, having a gentle air down the bay, but the breeze dying
                     away, we lost ground, and came with the stern so close to the shore, that our
                     ensign-staff was entangled in the branches of trees, on a perpendicular rock,
                     close to which we could find no bottom. We were towed off without receiving any
                     damage, and dropt an anchor below the place we set out from, in a little cove
                     on the north side of <placeName>Long Island</placeName>. Here we found two
                     huts, and two fireplaces, which seemed to prove that the place had lately been
                     inhabited. During our stay here, we discovered several new birds and fish; and
                     indeed caught some fish which are common to <placeName>Europe</placeName>, viz.
                     the horse-mackarel, the greater dog-fish, and the smooth hound<ref target="#edn55">
                        <note xml:id="edn55" anchored="true"> Scomber trachurus, squalus canis,
                           &amp; sq. <hi rend="italics">mustelus</hi>, Linn. </note>
                     </ref> . The captain was taken ill of a fever and violent pain in the groin,
                     which terminated in a rheumatic swelling of the right foot, contracted probably
                     by wading too frequently in the water, and sitting too long in the boat after
                     it, without changing his cloaths.</p>

                  <p n="213">
                     <date>[Tuesday 4.]</date> We were detained in this cove by calms, attended with
                     continual rains, till the 4th in the afternoon, when, assisted by a light
                     breeze at S. W. we entered the reach or passage leading out to sea. The breeze
                     coming a-head just at that time obliged us to anchor again under the east point
                     of the entrance, before a sandy beach. These little delays gave us
                     opportunities of examining the shores, from whence we never failed to bring on
                     board new acquisitions to the vegetable and animal system. During night we had
                     heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain, hail, and snow, and some loud
                     thunder claps. <date>[Wednesday 5.]</date>Day-light exhibited to our view all
                     the tops of the hills round us covered with snow. At <time>two o'clock in the
                        afternoon</time> a light breeze sprung up at S. S. W. which carried us down
                     the passage, though not without the help of our boats, to the last point near
                     the opening into the sea, where we anchored at <time>eight in the
                        evening</time>. The shores on both sides of the passage were steeper than
                     any we had seen before, and formed various wild landscapes, ornamented with
                     numerous little cascades, and many dragon-trees (<hi rend="italics">dracœna</hi>).</p>

                  <p n="214">
                     <date>[Thursday 6.]</date>The captain being confined to the cabin by his
                     rheumatism, sent an officer, accompanied by my father and myself, to explore
                     the southernmost arm, which ran up eastward from our new passage into the
                     interior country. During our absence he ordered the Resolution to be well
                     cleaned and aired with fires between decks, a precaution which ought never to
                     be neglected in a moist and raw climate.</p>

                  <p n="215">We rowed up this new inlet, were delighted with many cascades on both
                     sides of it, and found a number of good anchoring places, with plenty of fish
                     and wild-fowl. However, the woods consisted chiefly of shrubberies, and began
                     to look very bare, the leaves being mostly shed, and what remained looking
                     faded of a pale yellow colour. These strong marks of approaching winter seemed
                     to be peculiar to this part of the bay, and it is probable that the adjacent
                     high mountains, all which were now crowned with snow, caused their premature
                     appearance. We put into a little cove about <time>two o'clock</time> to broil a
                     few fishes for our dinner, and then went on till it was dark, taking up our
                     night's quarters on a little beach, almost at the head of the inlet. Here we
                     made a fire, but slept very little on account of the cold of the night and the
                     hardness of our pillows. <date>[Friday 7.]</date>The next morning we saw a
                     cove, with a little flat land, to the north of us, which formed the end of this
                     spacious inlet or arm, about eight miles from its entrance. Here we amused
                     ourselves with shooting for some time, and then set out to return towards the
                     Resolution; but the fair weather which had favoured us hitherto, was now
                     succeeded by a storm at N. W, which blew in hard squalls, attended with violent
                     showers of rain. We made shift to row down the arm into the entrance which led
                     to the sloop, and there sharing the remains of a bottle of rum among our boat's
                     crew, by way of encouragement, we entered the hollow sea in the passage. The
                     violence of the wind, and the height of the short waves were such, that in
                     spight of our utmost efforts we were thrown above half a mile to leeward in a
                     few minutes, and narrowly escaped being swamped. With the greatest difficulty
                     we regained the inlet out of which we had passed, and about <time>two o'clock
                        in the afternoon</time> we put into a small snug cove, at its north
                     entrance. After securing our boat in the best manner possible, we climbed on a
                     bleak hill, where we made a fire on a narrow rock, and attempted to broil some
                     fishes; but though we were soaked with rain, and severely cut by the wind, yet
                     it was impossible for us to keep near our fire, of which the flames were
                     continually whirled about in a vortex by the storm, so that we were forced to
                     change our places every moment, in order to escape being scorched or burnt. The
                     storm now encreased to such a violence, that we could hardly stand on this
                     barren spot; and therefore it was resolved, for our own and the boat's greater
                     safety, to cross the cove, and take up our night's quarters in the woods
                     immediately under the lee of the high mountains. Every one of us seized a
                     firebrand and stepped into the boat, where we made a formidable appearance, as
                     if we were bound on some desperate expedition. To our great disappointment the
                     woods were almost worse than the rock we had left, being so wet that it was
                     with the utmost difficulty our fire would burn; we had no shelter from the
                     heavy rains which came down upon us in double portions from the leaves; and the
                     wind not allowing the smoke to ascend, we were almost stifled with it. Here we
                     lay down on the moist ground, wrapped in wet cloaks thoroughly soaked and cold,
                     supperless, and tormented with rheumatic pains; and, notwithstanding all these
                     inconveniences, fell asleep for a few moments, being entirely exhausted with
                     fatigue. But about <time>two o'clock</time> we were roused by a loud
                     thunder-clap. The storm was now at its height, and blew a perfect hurricane.
                     The roar of the waves at a distance was tremendous, and only overcome at times
                     by the agitation of the forests, and the crashing fall of huge timber-trees
                     around us. We went to look after our boat, and at that instant a dreadful flash
                     of lightning illuminated the whole arm of the sea; we saw the billows foaming,
                     and furiously rolled above each other in livid mountains; in a word, it seemed
                     as if all nature was hastening to a general catastrophe.</p>

                  <p n="216">
                     <q>
                        <l>Non han piu gli elementi ordine o segno,</l>
                        <l>S'odono orrendi tuoni, ognor piu cresce</l>
                        <l>De' fieri venti il furibondo sdegno.</l>
                        <l>Increspa, e inlividisce il mar la faccia,</l>
                        <l>E s'alza contra il ciel che lo minaccia.</l>
                        <persName>Tassoni</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="217">The lightning was instantaneously followed by the most astonishing
                     explosion we had ever heard, reverberated from the broken rocks around us; and
                     our hearts sunk with apprehension lest the ship might be destroyed by the
                     tempest or its concomitant ӕtherial fires, and ourselves left to perish in an
                     unfrequented part of the world. In this dismal situation we lingered out the
                     night, which seemed the longest we had ever known. <date>[Saturday 8.]</date>At
                     last about six in the morning the violence of the storm abated, we embarked
                     about day break, and reached the vessel soon after, which had been obliged to
                     strike yards and top-masts. The inlet we had now surveyed, received the name of
                        <placeName>Wet Jacket Arm</placeName>, from the dreadful night we passed in
                     it. There now remained only one inlet to the northward of this unexplored; and
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, finding himself recovered, set out,
                     immediately after our return, to examine it. He proceeded up about ten miles,
                     and saw nearly the end of this arm, which like the other, contains good
                     harbours and plenty of fresh water, wood, fish, and wild fowl. On his return
                     his people had the wind and heavy rains to struggle with, and all returned on
                     board thoroughly wet, at nine in the evening. <date>[Sunday 9.]</date>The next
                     morning the sky being clear, but the wind unfavourable for going out to sea, we
                     accompanied captain Cook once more on a shooting party up the new arm, where we
                     spent the whole day, and met with tolerable good sport; but another party, who
                     had taken a different route, came back almost empty-handed.</p>

                  <p n="218">The wind continuing westerly and blowing very hard, the captain did not
                     think it adviseable to put to sea; but it falling moderate in the afternoon, he
                     made an excursion to an island in the entrance, on which were abundance of
                     seals. He and his party killed ten of them, of which they took five on board,
                     leaving the rest behind them.</p>

                  <p n="219">
                     <date>[Tuesday 11.]</date>The next morning it was pretty clear, the air very
                     cold and sharp, and all the hills covered with snow almost half way down to the
                     water, so that the winter was now fairly set in. A boat was sent to fetch off
                     the seals killed last night, which had been left behind; and in the mean time
                     we weighed and sailed from Dusky Bay, getting clear of the land at noon.</p>

                  <p n="220">The stay which we had made here for six weeks, and four days, together
                     with the abundance of fresh provisions which we enjoyed, and the constant
                     exercise we used, had contributed to recover all those who had been ill of the
                     scurvy at our arrival, and given new strength to the rest. However it is much
                     to be doubted, whether we should have preserved our health so well as we did,
                     without the use of the fermented liquor or spruce-beer which we brewed. The
                     climate of <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, is I must own, its greatest
                     inconvenience, and can never be supposed a healthy one. During the whole of our
                     stay, we had only one week of continued fair weather, all the rest of the time
                     the rain predominated. But perhaps the climate was less noxious to Englishmen
                     than to any other nation, because it is analogous to their own. Another
                     inconvenience in <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> is the want of celery,
                     scurvy-grass, and other antiscorbutics, which may be found in great plenty at
                        <placeName>Queen Charlotte's sound</placeName>, and many parts in
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. The intricate forests which clothe the
                     ground, the prodigious steepness of the hills, which on that account are almost
                     incapable of cultivation, and the virulent bite of sand-flies, which causes
                     ulcers like the small-pox, are certainly disagreeable circumstances; but of
                     small consequence to those who only put in here for refreshment, when compared
                     to the former. With all its defects, <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> in one of
                     the finest places in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, for a set of people to
                     touch at in our situation, exhausted with labours and hardships of long
                     continuance, and deprived of the sight of land above four months. Nothing is
                     more easy than to sail into it, there being no danger except what is visible
                     above water, and so many harbours and coves existing in every part of it, that
                     it is impossible to miss a convenient anchoring-place, where wood, water, fish,
                     and wild-fowl are to be found in plenty.</p>
               </div>
               <div n="6" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VI.<lb/>
                     Passage from <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> to <placeName>Queen
                           Charlotte's Sound</placeName> - Function with the Adventure. -
                        Transactions during our stay there.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="221">
                     <date>[1773. May.][Tuesday 11.]</date>HAVING hoisted in our boat, which
                     returned loaden with seals, we stood to the northward, with a heavy S. W.
                     swell, and numerous footy albatrosses and blue petrels attending us. As we
                     advanced along shore, the mountains seemed to decrease in height, and in four
                     and twenty hours the thermometer rose 7 1/2degrees, having been at 46° on the
                     day after we left <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, and standing at 53 1/2° the
                     next morning at <time>eight o'clock</time>.<date>[Thursday 13.]</date>
                  </p>

                  <p n="222">On the 14th, being off <placeName>Cape Foul-wind</placeName>, our
                     favourable gale left us, as if it meant to authenticate the propriety of the
                     denomination, and we really had a contrary wind. It blew a hard gale all the
                     16th, <date>[Sunday 16.]</date>attended with heavy rains, and we kept plying
                     the whole day, making one of our boards close in shore under <placeName>Rock's
                        Point.</placeName>
                  </p>

                  <p n="223">At <time>four o'clock in the morning</time> on the 17th we stood to the
                     eastward with a fair wind, so that we were abreast of <placeName>Cape
                        Farewell</placeName> at <time>eight o'clock</time>. Here we saw the land
                     appearing low and sandy near the sea-shore, though it rose into high snow-capt
                     mountains in the interior parts. Vast flocks of the little diving petrel,
                        (<hi rend="italics">procellaria</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">tridactyla</hi>), were seen fluttering on the surface of
                     the sea, or sitting on it, or diving to considerable distances with amazing
                     agility. They seemed exactly the same which we had seen on the 29th of January
                     and the 8th of February, in the latitude of <geo select="lat">48° S</geo>. when
                     we were in search of <placeName>M. Kerguelen's Islands</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="224">In the afternoon, about <time>four o'clock</time>, we were nearly
                     opposite <placeName>Cape Stephens</placeName>ined on all the southern parts of
                     that cape. On a sudden a whitish spot appeared on the sea in that quarter, and
                     a column arose out of it, looking like a glass tube; another seemed to come
                     down from the clouds to meet this, and they made a coalition, forming what is
                     commonly called a water-spout. A little while after we took notice of three
                     other columns, which were formed in the same manner as the first. The nearest
                     of all these was about three miles distant, and its apparent diameter, as far
                     as we could guess, might be about seventy fathom at the base. We found our
                     thermometer at 56 1/2 when this phӕnomenon first took its rise. The nature of
                     water-spouts and their causes being hitherto very little known, we were
                     extremely attentive to mark every little circumstance attendant on this
                     appearance. Their base, where the water of the sea was violently agitated, and
                     rose in a spiral form in vapours, was a broad spot, which looked bright and
                     yellowish when illuminated by the sun. The column was of a cylindrical form,
                     rather encreasing in width towards the upper extremity. These columns moved
                     forward on the surface of the sea, and the clouds not following them with equal
                     rapidity, they assumed a bent or incurvated shape, and frequently appeared
                     crossing each other, evidently proceeding in different directions; from whence
                     we concluded, that it being calm, each of these water-spouts caused a wind of
                     its own. At last they broke one after another, being probably too much
                     distended by the difference between their motion and that of the clouds. In
                     proportion as the clouds came nearer to us, the sea appeared more and more
                     covered with short broken waves, and the wind continually veered all round the
                     compass, without fixing in any point. We soon saw a spot on the sea, within two
                     hundred fathom of us, in a violent agitation. The water, in a space of fifty or
                     sixty fathoms, moved towards the centre, and there rising into vapour, by the
                     force of the whirling motion, ascended in a spiral form towards the clouds.
                     Some hailstones fell on board about this time, and the clouds looked
                     exceedingly black and louring above us. Directly over the whirl-pool, if I may
                     so call the agitated spot on the sea, a cloud gradually tapered into a long
                     slender tube, which seemed to descend to meet the rising spiral, and soon
                     united with it into a strait column of a cylindrical form. We could distinctly
                     observe the water hurled upwards with the greatest violence in a spiral, and it
                     appeared that it left a hollow space in the centre; so that we concluded the
                     water only formed a hollow tube, instead of a solid column. We were strongly
                     confirmed in this belief by the colour, which was exactly like any hollow
                     glass-tube. After some time the last water-spout was incurvated and broke like
                     the others, with this difference, that its disjunction was attended with a
                     flash of lightning, but no explosion was heard. Our situation during all this
                     time was very dangerous and alarming; a phӕnomenon which carried so much
                     terrific majesty in it, and connected as it were the sea with the clouds, made
                     our oldest mariners uneasy and at a loss how to behave; for most of them,
                     though they had viewed water-spouts at a distance, yet had never been so beset
                     with them as we were; and all without exception had heard dreadful accounts of
                     their pernicious effects, when they happened to break over a ship. We prepared
                     indeed for the worst, by cluing up our topsails; but it was the general opinion
                     that our masts and yards must have gone to wreck if we had been drawn into the
                     vortex. It was hinted that firing a gun had commonly succeeded in breaking
                     water-spouts, by the strong vibration it causes in the air; and accordingly a
                     four-pounder was ordered to be got ready, but our people being, as usual, very
                     dilatory about it, the danger was past before we could try this experiment. How
                     far electricity may be considered as the cause of this phӕnomenon, we could not
                     determine with any precision; so much however seems certain, that it has some
                     connection with it, from the flash of lightning, which was plainly observed at
                     the bursting of the last column. The whole time, from their first appearance to
                     the dissolution of the last, was about three quarters of an hour. It was
                        <time>five o'clock</time> when the latter happened, and the thermometer then
                     stood at 54° or 2 1/2degrees lower, than when they began to make their
                     appearance. The depth of water we had under us was thirty-six fathom. The place
                     we were in was analogous to most places where water-spouts have been observed,
                     inasmuch as it was in a narrow sea or strait. <persName>Dr. Shaw</persName> and
                        <persName>Thevenot</persName> saw them in the
                        <placeName>Mediterranean</placeName> and <placeName>Persian
                        Gulph</placeName>; and they are common in the
                        <placeName>West-Indies</placeName>, the <placeName>Straits of
                        Malacca</placeName>, and the <placeName>Chinese sea</placeName>. Upon the
                     whole, we were not fortunate enough to make any remarkable discoveries in
                     regard to this phӕnomenon; all our observations only tend to confirm the facts
                     already noticed by others, and which are so largely commented upon by the
                     learned <persName>Dr. Benjamin Franklin</persName>, F.R.S. His ingenious
                     hypothesis, that whirlwinds and water-spouts have a common origin, has not been
                     invalidated by our observations. We refer our philosophical readers to his
                     papers, as containing the most complete and satisfactory account of
                        water-spouts<ref target="#edn56">
                        <note xml:id="edn56" anchored="true"> See his <hi rend="italics">Experiments on Electricity</hi>, &amp;c. 4to. fifth edition,
                              <placeName>London</placeName>, 1774. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="225">
                     <date>[Tuesday 18.]</date>About <time>five o'clock</time> the next morning we
                     opened <persName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</persName>, and about seven we saw
                     three flashes rising from the south end of the <hi rend="italics">Motu-Aro</hi>, where a <hi rend="italics">hippah</hi>, or strong hold
                     of the natives, was situated, which is described in <persName>Lieutenant
                        Cook's</persName> voyage in the Endeavour<ref target="#edn57">
                        <note xml:id="edn57" anchored="true"> See
                              <placeName>Hawkesworth's</placeName> Compilation, vol. II. p. 395,
                           400. </note>
                     </ref>. We immediately conceived that they were signals made by Europeans, and
                     probably by our friends in the Adventure; and upon firing some four-pounders,
                     had the pleasure of being answered out of the <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName>,
                     opposite the island. Towards noon we could discern our old consort at anchor;
                     and soon after were met by several of her officers, who brought us a present of
                     fresh fish, and gave us an account of what had happened to them after our
                     separation. In the afternoon it fell calm, so that we were obliged to be towed
                     into the cove, where we anchored at seven in the evening. In the mean time
                        <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName> came on board, and testified his
                     satisfaction at rejoining us, by a salute of thirteen guns, which our people
                     cheerfully returned. Those who have been in situations similar to ours, may
                     form an adequate idea of the reciprocal pleasure which this meeting produced.
                     It was heightened on both sides, by the recent impressions of accumulated
                     dangers to which our separate courses had exposed us, and which under
                     Providence we had happily escaped. </p>

                  <p n="226">The Adventure, after losing our company, had continued her course to
                     the northward of us, between the latitudes of <geo select="lat">50°</geo> and
                        <geo select="lat">54° s</geo>outh, experiencing very heavy gales from the
                     westward during the whole time. On the <time>28th of February</time>, being in
                     about <geo select="lon">122° of longitude w</geo>est from
                        <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName>
                     thought it adviseable gradually to descend into the latitude of
                        <placeName>Diemen's Land</placeName>, or the extremity of <placeName>New
                        Holland</placeName>, discovered by <persName>Abel Janssen Tasman</persName>
                     in November 1642. On the 9th of March he fell in with the S. W. part of this
                     coast, and running along its southern extremity, came to an anchor on the 11th
                     in the afternoon, in a bay on the east side, which he called
                        <placeName>Adventure Bay</placeName>, and which is probably the same where
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> lay at anchor, distinguished by the name of
                        <placeName>Frederick Henry Bay</placeName>. The southern extremities of this
                     coast consisted of large broken masses of barren and blackish rocks, resembling
                     the extreme points of the African and American continents. The land round the
                     bay rose in sandy hillocks, of which the innermost were covered with various
                     sorts of trees, rather remote from each other, and without any brush-wood. They
                     also found a lake of fresh water on the west side, covered with great flocks of
                     wild-ducks and other aquatic fowls. Several islands in the offing to the N. E.
                     along shore, were of a moderate height, and likewise covered with wood.
                        <placeName>Tasman</placeName> probably took them for one great island, which
                     in his charts bears the name of <placeName>Maria's Island</placeName>. The
                     Adventure lay only three days in this bay, during which <persName>Captain
                        Furneaux</persName> took in a small quantity of fresh water, and collected
                     several curious animals, among which was a species of Viverra, and a fine white
                     hawk. Our Europeans perceived no inhabitants during their stay, but thought
                     they observed some smoke at a great distance in the country.</p>
                  <!--AN April 7: Forster used 'of'.-->

                  <p n="227">On the 15th in the evening they weighed and sailed out of
                        <placeName>Adventure Bay</placeName>, standing along shore to the northward.
                     They found it consisted of sandy hills of a moderate height, but saw at the
                     same time some much higher in the interior country. At different parts of this
                     coast they met with several islands, particularly those which
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> named <placeName>Schouten's and Vander Lyn's
                        Islands</placeName>. About the latitude of <geo select="lat">41° 15'
                     s</geo>outh, they opened a little bay, which, on account of several fires,
                     probably lighted by the natives, they named the <placeName>Bay of
                        Fires</placeName>. They continued examining the coast, not without running
                     some danger from numerous shoals, till the 19th of March at noon, when being in
                     the latitude of <geo select="lat">39° 20' s</geo>outh, and still seeing the
                     land about eight leagues to the north-westward, they concluded that
                        <placeName>Diemen's Land</placeName> was connected with the continent of
                        <placeName>New Holland</placeName> and directed their course towards the
                     rendezvous at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. However, as they had been
                     obliged, by the frequency of shoals, to keep out of sight of the coast several
                     times, and there remained a space of twenty leagues from the northernmost land
                     they had seen, to <placeName>Point Hicks</placeName>, the southern boundary of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> discoveries in the Endeavour; it is
                     still undetermined, whether a strait or passage does not exist between the main
                     of <placeName>New Holland</placeName> and <placeName>Diemen's Land</placeName>,
                     though the appearance of quadrupeds upon the latter, rather seems to favour the
                     idea of their being connected together. Be this as it may, there is perhaps no
                     part of the world which so well deserves future investigation as the great
                     continent of <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, of which we do not yet know
                     the whole outline, and of whose productions we are in a manner entirely
                     ignorant. Its inhabitants, from the accounts of all the voyagers who have
                     visited them, are but few in number, probably dwell on the sea-coasts only, go
                     perfectly naked, and seem by all description to lead a more savage life than
                     any nation in warm climates. There is consequently a vast interior space of
                     ground, equal to the continent of <placeName>Europe</placeName>, and in great
                     measure situated between the tropics, entirely unknown, and perhaps
                     uninhabited: nothing is more certain, from the vast variety of animal and
                     vegetable productions, collected on its sea-coasts in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> voyage in the Endeavour, than that the inner countries
                     contain immense treasures of natural knowledge, which must of course become of
                     infinite use to the civilized nation, which shall first attempt to go in search
                     of them. The south-west corner of this continent, which hitherto remains wholly
                     unexplored, may perhaps open a way to the heart of the country; for it is not
                     likely, that so great an extent of land, situated under the tropic, should be
                     destitute of a great river, and no part of the coast seems better situated than
                     that for its passage into the sea.</p>

                  <p n="228">After leaving this coast, the Adventure continued fifteen days at sea,
                     on account of contrary winds, and at length made the coast of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, near <placeName>Rock's Point</placeName>, on the
                     southern island, on the third of April, at <time>six in the morning</time>, and
                     came to an anchor at <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName>, <placeName>Queen
                        Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, on the 7th.</p>

                  <p n="229">During their stay here, they had made the same establishments on shore
                     as we had done at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, except the brewery, which
                     they were not yet acquainted with. They had found the <hi rend="italics">hippah</hi>, or strong-hold of the natives, at the southern end of
                        <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName> forsaken, and their astronomer had fixed his
                     observatory upon it. The inhabitants of this sound, who amount to some hundred
                     persons, in several distinct and independent parties, often at variance with
                     each other, had begun an intercourse with them, and paid them several visits,
                     coming from the interior parts. They had been extremely well received, and did
                     not hesitate to come on board, where they eat freely of the sailor's
                     provisions, showing a particular liking to our biscuits, and pease-soup. They
                     had brought with them great quantities of their clothing too, and weapons,
                     which they eagerly exchanged for nails, hatchets and cloth.</p>

                  <p n="230">On the 11th of May, being the same day we sailed out of
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, several of the Adventure's people, who
                     were at work on shore, or dispersed on shooting parties, distinctly felt a
                     shock of an earthquake; but those who remained on board, did not perceive any
                     thing of it. This circumstance may serve to evince the probability of volcanoes
                     on <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, as these two great phӕnomena on our
                     globe seem to be closely connected together.</p>

                  <p n="231">We arrived in <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, at the
                     time when the Adventure's crew began to despair of ever meeting with us again,
                     and had made preparations to spend the whole winter in this harbour, in order
                     to proceed to the eastward, with the ensuing spring, to explore the South Sea
                     in high latitudes. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, however, was by no means
                     inclined to lie inactive during so many months, especially as he knew, that
                     considerable refreshments were to be had at the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>, which he had visited in his former voyage. He therefore
                     gave directions to put both sloops in condition to go to sea, as soon as
                     possible; and the Resolution being entirely prepared for that purpose, her crew
                     assisted that of the Adventure for the sake of greater dispatch.</p>

                  <p n="232">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 19.]</date>We began our excursions the day after our arrival,
                     and found the productions of the forests very similar to those of
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, but the season and climate infinitely more
                     favourable to our botanical researches. We were fortunate enough to meet with
                     several species of plants still in flower, and also found some birds, which we
                     had not seen before. But the antiscorbutic plants, which grew on every beach,
                     gave this port the most distinguished advantage over our first place of
                     refreshment. We immediately gathered vast quantities of wild celery, and of a
                     well-tasted scurvy-grass (<hi rend="italics">lepidium</hi>) which were daily
                     boiled with some oat-meal or wheat for breakfast, and with pease-soup for
                     dinner; and the people on board the Adventure, who had hitherto not known the
                     use of these greens, now followed our example. We also found a species of
                     sow-thistle (<hi rend="italics">sonchus oleraceus</hi>), and a kind of plant
                     which our people called lamb's quarters, (<hi rend="italics">tetragonia
                        cornuta</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn58">
                        <note xml:id="edn58" anchored="true"> See
                           <placeName>Hawkesworth</placeName>, vol. III. p. 442. </note>
                     </ref>), which we frequently used as sallads; and if we had not such plenty of
                     wild-fowl and fishes as at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, we were amply
                     recompensed by these excellent vegetables. The spruce and the tea-tree of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> likewise grew in great plenty hereabouts,
                     and we taught our friends to make use of both for their refreshment.</p>

                  <p n="233">
                     <date>[Thursday 20.]</date>The next day we went to the Hippah, or fortification
                     of the natives, where <persName>Mr. Bailey</persName>, the astronomer of the
                     Adventure had fixed his observatory. It is situated on a steep insulated rock,
                     which is accessible only in one place, by a narrow difficult path, where two
                     persons cannot go abreast. At the top it had been surrounded by some
                     palisadoes, but these were in most parts removed, and had been used for fuel by
                     our people. The huts of the natives stood promiscuously within the enclosure,
                     and had no walls, but consisted only of a roof, which rose into a steep ridge.
                     The inner skeletons of these huts were branches of trees plaited so as to
                     resemble hurdles; on these they had laid the bark of trees, and covered the
                     whole with the rough fibres of the flag, or <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>
                     flax-plant. We were told, that the people from the Adventure had found them
                     exceeding full of vermin, and particularly fleas, from which it should seem
                     that they had been but lately inhabited; and indeed it is not unlikely, that
                     all these strong places are only the occasional abode of the natives, in case
                     of danger from their enemies; and that they forsake them, whenever their
                     personal safety does not require their residence. Our fellow-voyagers likewise
                     found immense numbers of rats upon the Hippah rock, so that they were obliged
                     to put some large jars in the ground, level with the surface, into which these
                     vermin fell during night, by running backwards and forwards; and great number
                     of them were caught in this manner. It is therefore very probable, that rats
                     are indigenous in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, or at least that their
                     arrival there, is prior to its discovery by European navigators.
                        <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName> shewed us several spots of ground on
                     the top of this rock, which he had ordered to be dug, and on which he had sown
                     a great variety of garden-seeds; these succeeded so well that we frequently had
                     sallads, and many dishes of European greens at our table, notwithstanding the
                     season of winter was now far advanced. But the climate in this part of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> is extremely mild, when compared to that
                     of <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>; and notwithstanding the vicinity of the
                     snowy mountains, I am inclined to believe it seldom freezes hard in
                        <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>; at least we experienced no
                     frost during our continuance there to the 6th of June.</p>

                  <p n="234">
                     <date>[Saturday 22.]</date>On the 22d we went over to an island in the sound,
                     to which <persName>captain Cook</persName> had given the name of
                        <placeName>Long Island</placeName> in his former voyage. It consists of one
                     long ridge, of which the sides are steep, and the back or top nearly level,
                     though in most places very narrow. On its N. W. side we saw a fine beach,
                     surrounding a little piece of flat land, of which the greatest part was marshy,
                     and covered with various grasses; the rest was full of antiscorbutics, and the
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> flax-plant (<hi rend="italics">phormium</hi>), growing round some old abandoned huts of the natives. We
                     cleared some spots of ground here, and sowed European garden seeds on them,
                     which we thought were likely to thrive in this place. We also climbed to the
                     top of the ridge, which we found covered with dry grasses, intermixed with some
                     low, shrubby plants; and among them a number of quails exactly like those of
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, had their residence. Several deep and narrow
                     glens which ran down the sides of the ridge to the sea, were filled with trees,
                     shrubs, and climbers, the haunt of numerous small birds, and of several
                     falcons; but where the cliffs were perpendicular, or hanging over the water,
                     great flocks of a beautiful sort of shags, built their nests on every little
                     broken rock, or if possible in small cavities about a foot square, which seemed
                     in a few instances to be enlarged by the birds themselves. The argillaceous
                     stone, of which most of the hills about <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName> consisted, is sometimes sufficiently soft for that
                     purpose. It runs in oblique strata, commonly dipping a little towards the
                     south, is of a greenish-grey, or bluish, or yellowish-brown colour, and
                     sometimes contains veins of white quartz. A green talcous or nephritic stone,
                     is also found in this kind of rock, and when very hard, capable of polish, and
                     semi-transparent; it is used by the natives for chissels, hatchets, and
                     sometimes for pattoo-pattoos: it is of the same species which jewellers call
                     the jadde. Several softer sorts of this stone, perfectly opaque, and of a pale
                     green colour, are more numerous than the flinty semi-transparent kind; and
                     several species of horn-stone and argillaceous slate likewise are seen running
                     in great strata through some of the mountains. The latter is commonly found in
                     great quantity, and broken pieces, on the sea beeches, and is what our seamen
                     call shingle, by which name it is distinguished in the account of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> former voyage. On these beaches we also
                     met with several sorts of flinty stones and pebbles, and some loose pieces of
                     black, compact, and ponderous basaltes, of which the natives form some of their
                     short clubs, called pattoo-pattoos. In many places we likewise saw strata of a
                     blackish <hi rend="italics">saxum</hi> Lin. consisting of a black and
                     compact mica or glimmer, intermixed with minute particles of quartz. The
                     argillaceous slate is sometimes found of a rusty colour, which seems evidently
                     to rise from irony particles; and from this circumstance, and the variety of
                     minerals just enumerated, there is great reason to suppose that this part of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> contains iron ore, and perhaps several
                     other metallic bodies. Before we left this place, we found some small pieces of
                     a whitish pumice-stone on the sea-shore, which, together with the basaltine
                     lava, strongly confirm the existence of volcanoes in <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="235">
                     <date>[Sunday 23.]</date>On the 23d in the morning, two small canoes came
                     towards us, in which were five men of the natives, the first we had seen since
                     the arrival of our sloop in this harbour. Their appearance was nearly the same
                     as that of the <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> people, with this difference,
                     that they seemed much more familiar and unconcerned. We bought some fish of
                     them, and likewise made them some presents, conducting them into the cabin, as
                     they did not hesitate to come on board. Seeing us sit down to dinner, they
                     freely partook of our provisions, but drank pure water, refusing to touch
                     either wine or brandy. They were so restless, that they removed from our table
                     to that of the officers in the steerage, where they likewise eat with great
                     appetite, and drank great quantities of water sweetened with sugar, of which
                     they were remarkably fond. Every thing they saw, or could lay hands upon they
                     coveted, but upon the least hint, that we either could not, or would not part
                     with what they had taken up, they laid it down without reluctance. Glass
                     bottles, which they called taw-haw, were however particularly valuable to them;
                     and whenever they saw any of them, they always pointed to them, and then moved
                     the hand to their breast, pronouncing the word <hi rend="italics">mòkh</hi>,
                     by which they used to express their desire of possessing any thing. Among the
                     variety of little presents we made them they did not notice beads, ribbons,
                     white paper, &amp;c. but were very eager after iron, nails, and hatchets; a
                     proof that the intrinsic value of these tools cannot fail to make an impression
                     on the minds of these people in the long run, though they were at first
                     indifferent to them, as not knowing their use and durability. Some of our
                     people having made use of their canoes in the afternoon to transport themselves
                     to the shore, they came into the cabin complaining to the captain, whose
                     authority over the rest they very well conceived; and their embarkations being
                     restored to them, they all went away highly pleased.</p>

                  <p n="236">
                     <date>[Monday 24.]</date>The next morning at day-break they returned, but
                     brought four other persons with them, one of them a woman, with some children,
                     and traded as usual about the ships. The captains embarked with us after
                     breakfast, in order to visit an extensive inlet on the northern shore of the
                     sound, which was called West Bay in the Endeavour's voyage. On our way we met a
                     double canoe, manned with thirteen persons, who, coming along side, made
                     acquaintance with <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, and seemed to recollect
                     him, by enquiring for <persName>Tupaya</persName>, the native of
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, whom he had taken on board during his
                     former voyage, and who had lived to visit this country with him. When they were
                     told that he was dead, they seemed much concerned, and pronounced some words in
                     a plaintive tone. We made signs for them to go on board the vessels lying in
                        <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName>; but when they saw us going on to the
                     south, they returned to the cove from whence they came.</p>

                  <p n="237">We found the country not quite so steep as at the southern extremity of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and the hills near the sea-side were in
                     general of an inferior height. In most parts, however, they were covered with
                     forests, equally intricate and impenetrable as those of <placeName>Dusky
                        Bay</placeName>, but containing a greater number of pigeons, parrots, and
                     small birds, which perhaps abandon that rude climate during the cold season,
                     and pass their winter in these milder regions. Oyster-catchers or sea-pies, and
                     various sorts of shags, likewise enlivened the sea shores here, but ducks were
                     extremely scarce. <placeName>West Bay</placeName> contains a number of fine
                     coves, each of which affords excellent anchorage; the hills rise gently all
                     round it, covered with shrubs and trees, and many of their summits are clear of
                     woods, but overgrown with a common species of fern, (<hi rend="italics">acrosticum furcatum</hi>). This is likewise the case with many islands in
                     the sound, and great part of the south-east shore of the sound from
                        <placeName>Cape Koamaroò</placeName> to <placeName>East Bay</placeName>.
                     After collecting a number of new plants, among which was a species of pepper,
                     very much resembling ginger in the taste, and shooting many birds of all sorts,
                     we returned on board late in the evening.</p>

                  <p n="238">The launch, which had been sent out in the morning to an adjacent cove,
                     in order to cut greens for the ship's company and some grass for our goats and
                     sheep, did not return that day; but staying out all the next likewise, we began
                     to be very uneasy about the twelve people in her, among whom were our third
                     lieutenant, the lieutenant of marines, <placeName>Mr. Hodges</placeName>, the
                     carpenter, and the gunner. Our apprehensions were the most just, as the wind
                     and weather had been favourable for their return from almost any part of the
                     bay, till the morning of the 25th; soon after which it began to be very rainy
                     and stormy. On the day we had gone to <placeName>West Bay</placeName>, a large
                     canoe with twelve of the natives came from the north to our ship, and after
                     selling a variety of their dresses, some stone hatchets, clubs, spears, and
                     even paddles, they returned the way they came.</p>

                  <p n="239">On the 26th, after noon, the weather being somewhat cleared up, our
                     launch arrived on board, but all the people in her were exhausted with fatigue
                     and hunger. All the provision they had taken out with them consisted of three
                     biscuits and a bottle of brandy; and they had not been able to succeed in
                     catching a single fish during the tempestuous weather. After being tossed about
                     by the waves, attempting in vain to return to the vessels, they had put into a
                     cove, on which they found a few deserted huts of the natives, where they took
                     shelter, and just kept themselves from starving by eating a few muscles that
                     adhered to the rocks.</p>

                  <p n="240">The next morning we made our researches round the bottom of the cove,
                     in quest of plants and birds; and in the afternoon we went out along the rocky
                     shores towards <placeName>Point Jackson</placeName>, to kill some shags, which
                     we had now learnt to relish instead of ducks. Between these two excursions we
                     received another visit of the Indian family, whom we had seen before, on the
                     23d. They seemed to be come for no other purpose than that of eating with us,
                     having brought nothing with them to exchange for our iron-work. We now enquired
                     for their names, but they were a long time before they could understand us;
                     however, comprehending our meaning at last, they gave us a collection of words,
                     which had a singular mixture of gutturals and vowels. The oldest among them was
                     called <persName>Towa-hà;ngha</persName>; the other
                        <persName>Kotughâ-a</persName>, <persName>Koghoäà</persName>,
                        <persName>Khoäà</persName>, <persName>Kollàkh</persName>, and
                        <persName>Taywaherùa</persName>. This last was a boy about twelve or
                     fourteen years of age, who had a very promising countenance, and seemed to be
                     the liveliest and most intelligent among them. He came into the cabin and dined
                     with us, eating very voraciously of a shag-pye, of which, contrary to our
                     expectation, he preferred the crust. The captain offered him some Madeira wine,
                     of which he drank something more than one glass, making a great many wry faces
                     at first. A bottle of a very sweet Cape wine being brought upon the table, a
                     glass was filled out to him, which he relished so well that he was continually
                     licking his lips, and desired to have another, which he likewise drank off.
                     This draught began to elevate his spirits, and his tongue ran on with great
                     volubility. He capered about the cabin, insisted on having the captain's
                     boat-cloak, which lay on a chair, and was much vexed at the refusal; he next
                     desired one of the empty bottles, and this request likewise proving fruitless,
                     he went out of the cabin highly offended. On deck he saw some of our servants
                     folding up linen which had been hung out to dry, and immediately seized on a
                     table-cloth; but this being taken from him, his passion was at the highest
                     pitch, he stamped, threatened, then grumbled, or rather grunted awhile, and at
                     last became so sullen that he would not speak a word. The impatient temper of
                     this nation never appeared more distinctly than in this boy's conduct; but at
                     the same time we had room to consider, seeing the effect of strong liquors upon
                     him, how fortunate it was that they were used to no kind of intoxicating
                     draught, which would perhaps serve to make their temper still more fierce and
                     ungovernable than it is at present.</p>

                  <p n="241">
                     <date>[Saturday 29.]</date>About thirty natives surrounded us in several canoes
                     the next morning, and brought a few of their tools and weapons to sell, for
                     which they received great quantities of our goods in exchange, owing to the
                     eagerness with which our crews outbid each other. There were a number of women
                     among them, whose lips were of a blackish blue colour, by punctuation; and
                     their cheeks were painted of a lively red, with a mixture of ruddle and oil.
                     Like those at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, they commonly had slender and
                     bandy legs, with large knees; defects which evidently are deducible from the
                     little exercise they use, and their mode of sitting cross-legged and cramped up
                     almost perpetually in canoes. Their colour was of a clear brown, between the
                     olive and mahogany hues, their hair jetty black, the faces round, the nose and
                     lips rather thick but not flat, their black eyes sometimes lively and not
                     without expression; the whole upper part of their figure was not
                     disproportionate, and their assemblage of features not absolutely forbidding.
                     Our crews, who had not conversed with women since our departure from the Cape,
                     found these ladies very agreeable; and from the manner in which their advances
                     were received, it appeared very plainly that chastity was not rigorously
                     observed here, and that the sex were far from being impregnable. However their
                     favours did not depend upon their own inclination, but the men, as absolute
                     masters, were always to be consulted upon the occasion; if a spike-nail, or a
                     shirt, or a similar present had been given for their connivance, the lady was
                     at liberty to make her lover happy, and to exact, if possible, the tribute of
                     another present for herself. Some among them, however, submitted with
                     reluctance to this vile prostitution; and, but for the authority and menaces of
                     the men, would not have complied with the desires of a set of people who could,
                     with unconcern, behold their tears and hear their complaints. Whether the
                     members of a civilized society, who could act such a brutal part, or the
                     barbarians who could force their own women to submit to such indignity, deserve
                     the greatest abhorrence, is a question not easily to be decided. Encouraged by
                     the lucrative nature of this infamous commerce, the New Zeelanders went through
                     the whole vessel, offering their daughters and sisters promiscuously to every
                     person's embraces, in exchange for our iron tools, which they knew could not be
                     purchased at an easier rate. It does not appear that their married women were
                     ever suffered to have this kind of intercourse with our people. Their ideas of
                     female chastity are, in this respect, so different from ours, that a girl may
                     favour a number of lovers without any detriment to her character; but if she
                     marries, conjugal fidelity is exacted from her with the greatest rigour. It may
                     therefore be alledged, that as the New Zeelanders place no value on the
                     continence of their unmarried women, the arrival of Europeans among them, did
                     not injure their moral characters in this respect; but we doubt whether they
                     ever debased themselves so much as to make a trade of their women, before we
                     created new wants by shewing them iron-tools; for the possession of which they
                     do not hesitate to commit an action that, in our eyes, deprives them of the
                     very shadow of sensibility.</p>

                  <p n="242">It is unhappy enough that the unavoidable consequence of all our
                     voyages of discovery, has always been the loss of a number of innocent lives;
                     but this heavy injury done to the little uncivilized communities which
                     Europeans have visited, is trifling when compared to the irretrievable harm
                     entailed upon them by corrupting their morals. If these evils were in some
                     measure compensated by the introduction of some real benefit in these
                     countries, or by the abolition of some other immoral customs among their
                     inhabitants, we might at least comfort ourselves, that what they lost on one
                     hand, they gained on the other; but I fear that hitherto our intercourse has
                     been wholly disadvantageous to the nations of the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>; and that those communities have been the least injured,
                     who have always kept aloof from us, and whose jealous disposition did not
                     suffer our sailors to become too familiar among them, as if they had perceived
                     in their countenances that levity of disposition, and that spirit of
                     debauchery, with which they are generally reproached.</p>

                  <p n="243">Several of these people were invited into the cabin, where
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> applied himself to sketch the most
                     characteristic faces, while we prevailed on them to sit still for a few
                     moments, keeping their attention engaged, by a variety of trifles which we
                     shewed, and some of which we presented to them. We found several very
                     expressive countenances among them, particularly some old men, with grey or
                     white heads and beards; and some young men, with amazing bushy hair, which hung
                     wildly over their faces, and increased their natural savage looks. The stature
                     of these people was middle-sized in general, and their form and colour almost
                     entirely the same as that of the <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> people; their
                     dress was likewise made in the same manner of the flax-plant, but never
                     interwoven with feathers, in lieu of which they had bits of dog-skin at the
                     four corners of their cloaks, which the others were not fortunate enough to
                     possess. The <hi rend="italics">boghee-boghee</hi>, or shaggy-cloak, which
                     hangs round their neck like a thatch of straw<ref target="#edn59">
                        <note xml:id="edn59" anchored="true"> See
                              <placeName>Hawkesworth's</placeName> Compilation, vol. III. p. 453,
                           &amp;c. </note>
                     </ref>, was almost constantly worn by them, on account of the season, during
                     which the air began to be sharp, and rains were very frequent. But their other
                     kinds of cloth<ref target="#edn60">
                        <note xml:id="edn60" anchored="true"> Ibid. p. 455. </note>
                     </ref> were here commonly old, dirty, and not so neatly wrought as they are
                     described in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> first voyage. The men wore
                     their hair hanging in a very slovenly manner about them, but the women had
                     theirs cut short, which seems to be the general practice among them. They also
                     wore the head-dress, or cap of brown feathers, mentioned in the account of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> former voyage. After these people had
                     been on board a few hours, they began to steal, and secrete every thing they
                     could lay their hands on. Several of them were discovered in conveying away a
                     large four-hour glass, a lamp, some handkerchiefs, and some knives; upon which
                     they were ignominiously turned out of the sloop, and never permitted to come on
                     board gain. They felt the whole weight of shame, which this proceeding brought
                     upon them; and their fiery temper, which cannot brook any humiliation, was up
                     in arms at this punishment; so that one of them uttered threats, and made
                     violent gestures in his canoe. In the evening they all went on shore, abreast
                     of the sloops, and made some temporary huts of the branches of trees, near
                     which they hawled their canoes on the dry land, and made fires, over which they
                     prepared their suppers. Their meals consisted of some fresh fishes, which they
                     had caught in their canoes not far from shore, with a kind of scoop-net,
                     described in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> former voyage, which they
                     managed with a dexterity peculiar to themselves.</p>

                  <p n="244">
                     <date>[Sunday 30.]</date>The next morning we had fine mild weather, and made a
                     trip over to <placeName>Long Island</placeName>, in order to look after some
                     hay, which our people had cut there, and to collect greens for the ship's
                     company, near the huts which the natives had abandoned. We were fortunate
                     enough at the same time to find some new plants, and shoot several little
                     birds, different from those which had hitherto fallen into our hands. In the
                     afternoon, many of our sailors were allowed to go on shore, among the natives,
                     where they traded for curiosities, and purchased the embraces of the ladies,
                     notwithstanding the disgust which their uncleanliness inspired. Their custom of
                     painting their cheeks with ochre and oil, was alone sufficient to deter the
                     more sensible from such intimate connections with them; and if we add to this a
                     certain stench which announced them even at a distance, and the abundance of
                     vermin which not only infested their hair, but also crawled on their clothes,
                     and which they occasionally cracked between their teeth, it is astonishing that
                     persons should be found, who could gratify an animal appetite with such
                     loathsome objects, whom a civilized education and national customs should have
                     taught them to hold in abhorrence.</p>

                  <p n="245">
                     <q>_____________________ Unde</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="246">
                     <q>Hӕc tetigit, Gradive, tuos urtica nepotes? <persName>Juvenal</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="247">Before they returned on board again, a woman stole a jacket belonging
                     to one of our sailors, and gave it to a young fellow of her own nation. The
                     owner finding it in the young men's hands, took it from him, upon which he
                     received several blows with the fist. These he believed were meant in joke, but
                     as he was advancing to the water-side, in order to step into the boat, the
                     native threw several large stones at him. The sailor was rouzed, and returning
                     to the fellow, began to box him after the English manner, and in a few moments
                     had given the New Zeelander a black eye, and bloody nose; upon which the
                     latter, to all appearance much terrified, declined the combat, and ran off.</p>

                  <p n="248">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, who was determined to omit nothing which
                     might tend to the preservation of European garden-plants in this country,
                     prepared the soil, sowed seeds, and transplanted the young plants in four or
                     five different parts of this sound. He had cultivated a spot of ground on the
                     beach of <placeName>Long Island</placeName>, another on the <placeName>Hippah
                        rock</placeName>, two more on the <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName>, and one
                     of considerable extent at the bottom of <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName>, where
                     our vessels lay at anchor. He chiefly endeavoured to raise such vegetables as
                     have useful and nutritive roots, and among them particularly potatoes, of which
                     we had been able to preserve but few in a state of vegetation. He had likewise
                     sown corn of several sorts, beans, kidney-beans, and pease, and devoted the
                     latter part of his stay in great measure to these occupations.</p>

                  <p n="249">
                     <date>[1773. June.][Tuesday 1.]</date>Early on the first of June several canoes
                     full of natives came on board, whom we had not seen before. Their canoes were
                     of different sizes, and three of them had sails, which are but seldom seen
                     among them. The sail consisted of a large triangular mat, and was fixed to a
                     mast, and a boom joining below in an acute angle, which could both be struck
                     with the greatest facility. The upper edge, or broadest part of the sail, had
                     five tufts of brown feathers on its extremity. The bottom of these canoes
                     consisted of a long hollow trunk of a tree, and the sides were made of several
                     boards or planks above each other, which were united by means of a number of
                     strings of the <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> flax-plant, passed through
                     small holes, and tied very fast. The seams between them are caulked with the
                     downy or woolly substance of the reed-mace (<hi rend="italics">typha
                        latifolia</hi>). Some of the canoes were double, that is, two fastened
                     along side of each other, by means of transverse sticks, lashed on with ropes;
                     but where that was not the case, they had an outrigger, or narrow piece of
                     plank fixed parallel to one side of the canoe, by means of transverse poles, to
                     prevent their oversetting. All those we now saw had not that profusion of
                     carving and fine workmanship, mentioned in <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     first voyage, which he observed in the canoes of the northern islands; but
                     seemed rather old, and worn out; they were not, however, different in the
                     general conformation from those described there, and always had the distorted
                     human face at the head, the high stern, and the neat sharp-pointed paddles. The
                     people in them brought for sale several ornaments, which were new to us,
                     especially pieces of green nephritic stone, cut into various forms. Some were
                     of a flat shape, with a sharp edge, and served as the blades of hatchets, or
                     adzes; some were formed into long pieces, which are hung into the ear; others
                     were little chissels, inserted in a wooden handle, and again others were cut
                     out with great labour into a contorted and squatted figure, something
                     resembling the carricature of a man, in which a pair of monstrous eyes were
                     inserted, made of the mother of pearl of an ear-shell. This last, which they
                     called <hi rend="italics">ê teeghee</hi>, was worn by persons of both sexes,
                     hanging on the breast, from a string passed about the heck, and may perhaps
                     relate to some religious matters. They sold us an apron, made of their
                     close-wrought cloth, covered with red feathers, faced with white dog-skin, and
                     ornamented with pieces of the ear-shell, which is said to be worn by the women
                     in their dances. They brought a number of their fish-hooks, which are of a
                     remarkable clumsy form, made of wood, and barbed with a piece of bone, which
                     was jagged, and which they assured us was human bone. Several rows of human
                     teeth, drawn on a thread, hung on their breasts, in the place of, or along with
                     the <hi rend="italics">teeghee</hi>, but they readily sold them to us, in
                     exchange for iron tools, or trinkets. A good many dogs were observed in their
                     canoes, which they seemed very fond of, and kept tied with a string, round
                     their middle; they were of a rough long-haired sort, with pricked ears, and
                     much resembled the common shepherd's cur, or count
                        <persName>Buffon's</persName>
                     <hi rend="italics">chien de berger</hi> (see his Hist. Nat.). They were of
                     different colours, some spotted, some quite black, and others perfectly white.
                     The food which these dogs receive is fish, or the same as their masters live
                     on, who afterwards eat their flesh, and employ the fur in various ornaments and
                     dresses. They sold us several of these animals, among which the old ones coming
                     into our possession, became extremely sulky, and refused to take any
                     sustenance, but some young ones soon accustomed themselves to our provisions.
                     Several of the New Zeelanders came into the vessel, and some were conducted
                     into the cabin, where they received some presents; but none of them shewed that
                     astonishment, and that degree of reflection and attention, which our old friend
                     at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName> had manifested on coming aboard. Some of
                     them were strangely marked in the face with deeply excavated spiral lines; and
                     one of them in particular, a tall and strong man, and nearly middle-aged, had
                     these marks very regular on his chin, cheeks, forehead, and nose, so that his
                     beard, which would otherwise have been very thick, now consisted only of a few
                     straggling hairs. This man's name was <persName>Tringho-Waya</persName>, and he
                     seemed to have some authority with his people, which was more than we had
                     hitherto observed among the small number who had visited us. The chief object
                     of their commerce were shirts and bottles, of which last they were remarkably
                     fond: perhaps because they have nothing in which to keep liquids, except a
                     minute kind of calabash or gourd, which grows only in the northern island, and
                     was extremely scarce among the people in <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>. They were not inclined however to make disadvantageous
                     bargains, and demanded the best price for every little trifle which they
                     offered for sale, though they were never offended with a refusal. Some of them
                     being in remarkable good spirits, gave us a <hi rend="italics">heiva</hi>,
                     or dance, on the quarter-deck. They placed themselves in a row, and parted with
                     their shaggy upper garments: one of them sung some words in a rude manner, and
                     all the rest accompanied the gestures he made, alternately extending their
                     arms, and stamping with their feet in a violent and almost frantic manner. The
                     last words which we might suppose the burden of the song, or a chorus, they all
                     repeated together; and we could easily distinguish some sort of metre in them,
                     but were not sure they had rhimes. The music was extremely rough, and of no
                     great extent in these kinds of songs. In the evening they all went off again,
                     and returned to the upper part of the sound from whence they came.</p>

                  <p n="250">
                     <date>[Wednesday 2.]</date>The next morning we accompanied the captains
                        <persName>Cook</persName> and <persName>Furneaux</persName> to
                        <placeName>East Bay</placeName>, and <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>,
                     where they intended to collect a load of antiscorbutic greens. We had not only
                     endeavoured to leave useful European roots in this country, but we were
                     likewise attentive to stock its wilds with animals, which in time might become
                     beneficial to the natives, and to future generations of navigators. To this
                     purpose <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> had already sent a boar and two
                     sows to <placeName>Canibal Cove</placeName>, where they had been turned into
                     the woods to range at their own pleasure; and we now deprived ourselves, with
                     the same view, of a pair of goats, male and female, which we left in an
                     unfrequented part of <placeName>East Bay</placeName>. These places had been
                     fixed upon, in hopes that our new colonists would there remain unmolested by
                     the natives, who indeed were the only enemies they had to fear, as their
                     inconsiderate and barbarous temper would not suffer them to make any reflection
                     on the advantages which future ages might reap from the propagation of such a
                     valuable race of animals. On this excursion we saw a large animal in the water
                     about <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>, which seemed to be a sea-lion by its
                     magnitude, but which we could not get a shot at. We had already discovered a
                     small species of bats in the woods, so that the list of the indigenous
                     quadrupeds in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> was increased to five,
                     including the domestic dog of the natives; and it is much to be doubted whether
                     it is possible to add a sixth to that number. After we had ranged the woods in
                     different parts, collected several plants, shot a few birds, and taken in a
                     great load of wild celery and scurvy-grass, we returned late on board.</p>

                  <p n="251">On the third of June, we sent some boats to Long Island to fetch our
                     hay on board; and having laid in a sufficient quantity of wood and water, put
                     the ship in a condition to go to sea, and refreshed our crews with vast
                     quantities of greens, we were ready to sail with the first opportunity. One of
                     our boats in returning saw a large double canoe, and another in which they
                     counted about fifty men, who immediately chaced them: but our people not being
                     armed, hoisted sail, and soon got away from them, so that the New Zeelanders
                     gave over the pursuit, and returned towards <placeName>East Bay</placeName>
                     from whence they came. We can by no means pretend to assert that their
                     intentions were hostile in any degree, but prudence naturally suggested to our
                     people, not to place themselves in the power of a set of uncivilized men, who
                     follow their own caprice instead of laws.</p>

                  <p n="252">
                     <date>[Friday 4.]</date>The next morning we hoisted <persName>St.
                        George's</persName> colours, the jack and pennant in honour of His Majesty's
                     birth-day, which we prepared to celebrate with the usual festivities. The
                     family of natives, whose name I have mentioned page 209, and who by living
                     constantly in a neighbouring cove, were now intimate with us, came on board
                     very early, and breakfasted with us. Whilst we were sitting in the steerage, an
                     officer acquainted the captain with the approach of a large double canoe, well
                     manned with New Zeelanders, coming from the northward. We immediately went on
                     deck, and saw the canoe about a musket shot from us, containing twenty-eight
                     men, making towards our sloop, which from her size they probably took to be the
                     commanding one. Our friends on board very earnestly told us they would be our
                     enemies, and persisted to fire at them; <persName>nay Towahanga</persName>, the
                     head of the family jumped on the arm chest, which was placed on our quarter
                     deck, and taking hold of a stick, made a number of warlike motions with it, and
                     soon after spoke to them very violently, but with some degree of solemnity, at
                     the same time brandishing, as it seemed in defiance, a large hatchet of green
                     nephritic stone, which he had never shewn us before. In the mean time the canoe
                     approached, without taking much notice of our friend, whom we persuaded at last
                     to be silent. Two people of a fine stature, one at the stern, and another about
                     the middle of the canoe stood upright, while all the rest continued seated. The
                     former had a perfect black cloak of the close wrought kind, patched in
                     compartments with dog-skin; he held a green plant of the <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> flag in his hand, and now and then spoke a few words.
                     But the other pronounced a long speech well articulated, loud, and very solemn,
                     and gave his voice great variety of falls and elevations. From the various
                     tones in which he spoke, and a few gestures with which he accompanied his
                     words, he appeared by turns to question, to boast, to threaten, to challenge,
                     and to persuade us; he was sometimes running on in a moderate tone, then all at
                     once breaking out into violent exclamations; after which he made short pauses
                     in order to recover his breath. Having finished his oration, he was invited to
                     come on board by the captain, who came to the ship's side; he seemed at first
                     dubious and mistrustful, but his natural spirit soon overcoming that
                     diffidence, he ventured on board, and was presently followed by all his people,
                     who traded with the greatest eagerness for our iron wares. They immediately
                     saluted the family of natives on board, with the usual application of noses, or
                     as our sailors expressed it, they nosed each other, and paid every one of us
                     upon the quarter-deck the same compliment. The two speakers were taken into the
                     cabin, where we learnt the second orator's name was Teiratu, and that he came
                     from the opposite shore of the northern island, called <placeName>Teera
                        Whittee</placeName>. They immediately enquired for
                        <persName>Tupia</persName> (<persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Tupaya</hi>
                     </persName>), and, like those mentioned p. 206, seemed much concerned, and
                     pronounced some words in a mournful or plaintive voice on hearing of his death.
                     So much had this man's superior knowledge, and his ability to converse in their
                     language rendered him valuable, and beloved even among a nation in a state of
                     barbarism. Perhaps with the capacity which Providence had allotted to him, and
                     which had been cultivated no farther than the simplicity of his education would
                     permit, he was more adapted to raise the New Zeelanders to a state of
                     civilization similar to that of his own islands, than ourselves, to whom the
                     want of the intermediate links, which connect their narrow views to our
                     extended sphere of knowledge, must prove an obstacle in such an
                     undertaking.</p>

                  <p n="253">
                     <persName>Teiratu</persName> and all his companions were a taller race of
                     people than we had hitherto seen in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, none of
                     them being below the middle size, and many above it. Their dress, ornaments,
                     and arms were richer than any we had observed among the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, and seemed to speak a kind
                     of affluence, which was entirely new to us. Among their dresses were several
                     cloaks entirely lined with dog-skin, upon which they set a high value, and
                     which indeed gave them a very comfortable appearance in the cold weather that
                     now began to be felt. Many of their cloaks, made of the fibres of the
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> flag (<hi rend="italics">phormium</hi>), were new, and had elegant borders, very symmetrically
                     wrought in red, black, and white; so that they might have passed for the work
                     of a much more polished nation<ref target="#edn61">
                        <note xml:id="edn61" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. III. </note>
                     </ref>. The black is so strongly fixed upon their stuffs, that it deserves the
                     attention of our manufacturers, who greatly want a lasting dye of that colour
                     on vegetable productions; but the little progress we could make in their
                     language, rendered it impossible to gain intelligence from them on this point.
                     Their cloaks are square pieces, of which two corners were fastened on the
                     breast by strings, and stuck together by a bodkin of bone, whalebone, or green
                     jadde. A belt of a sort of close matting of grass, confined the lower
                     extremities of their cloak to their loins, beyond which it extended at least to
                     the middle of the thigh, and sometimes to the mid-leg. Notwithstanding this
                     superiority over the natives of <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>,
                     they resembled them perfectly in their uncleanliness, and swarms of vermin
                     marched about in their cloaths. Their hair was dressed in the fashion of the
                     country tied on the crown, greased, and stuck with white feathers; and several
                     of them had large combs, of some cetaceous animal's bone, stuck upright just
                     behind the bunch of hair on the head. Many of them were strongly carved with
                     spirals in the face; several had painted it with red ochre and oil, and were
                     always much pleased when we laid some vermilion on their cheeks. We likewise
                     saw some little calabashes among them, neatly carved, in which they kept some
                     stinking oil; but whether it was animal or vegetable I could never learn. All
                     their tools were very elegantly carved, and made with great attention. They
                     sold us a hatchet, of which the blade was of the finest green jadde, and the
                     handle curiously ornamented with fretwork. They also brought some musical
                     instruments, among which was a trumpet, or tube of wood, about four feet long,
                     and pretty strait; its small mouth was not above two inches, and the other not
                     above five in diameter; it made a very uncouth kind of braying, for they always
                     sounded the same note, though a performer on the French horn might perhaps be
                     able to bring some better music out of it. Another trumpet was made of a large
                     whelk, (<hi rend="italics">murex tritonis</hi>), mounted with wood,
                     curiously carved, and pierced at the point where the mouth was applied; a
                     hideous bellowing was all the sound that could be procured out of this
                     instrument. The third went by the name of a flute among our people, and was a
                     hollow tube, widest about the middle, where it had a large opening, as well as
                     another at each end. This and the first trumpet were both made of two hollow
                     semicyclinders of wood, exactly fitted and moulded together, so as to form a
                     perfect tube. Their double canoe was about fifty feet long, and seemed to be
                     new; both the high stern and the head were very curiously carved with fretwork
                     and spiral lines, as described in <persName>Capt. Cook's</persName> former
                     voyage. A mishapen thing, which with some difficulty we perceived was meant to
                     represent a human head, with a pair of eyes of mother of pearl, and a long
                     tongue lolling out of its mouth, constituted the foremost extremity or <hi rend="italics">prora </hi>of the canoe. This figure is the most common in
                     all their ornaments, and principally in every thing that relates to warlike
                     affairs. The custom of lolling out the tongue in contempt and defiance of the
                     enemy, seems to have given rise to the frequent representations of it; the
                     figure of the tongue forms the heads of their war-canoes, it is placed on the
                     narrow extremity of their battle-axes, and they wear it on their breast, tied
                     to a string round the neck; nay they carve it on their very scoops with which
                     they bale the water, and on the paddles with which they manage their
                     canoes.</p>

                  <p n="254">These people made but a very short stay with us, for seeing it began to
                     blow fresh, they all embarked and paddled over to the
                        <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName>. The captain, accompanied by several
                     gentlemen, followed them about noon, and found seven canoes there hauled on
                     shore, which had carried about ninety persons to that island, who were all
                     busied making huts for their temporary shelter. Our people were received with
                     every mark of friendship, and the captain distributed many presents to them.
                     Among these was a number of brass medals, gilt, about one inch and three
                     quarters in diameter, which had been struck on purpose to be left as a memorial
                     of this voyage among the nations we should meet with: on one side was the head
                     of his present majesty, with the inscription, <persName>george iii.</persName>
                     king of <placeName>great britain</placeName>, <placeName>france</placeName> and
                        <placeName>ireland</placeName>, &amp;c. On the reverse, the representation
                     of two men of war, with the names resolution and adventure over them; and the
                     exergue sailed from england march mdcclxxii<ref target="#edn62">
                        <note xml:id="edn62" anchored="true"> It was originally intended that the
                           sloops should sail so early as March. </note>
                     </ref>. Some of these medals had already been given to the natives of
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, and those of <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>. In exchange for iron, cloth, and beads, our people
                     collected a great number of arms, tools, dresses, and ornaments, as curiosities
                     among them, they having greater quantities of these things than any New
                     Zeelanders we had seen. The captain and his company perceived that
                        <persName>Teiratu</persName> seemed to be the principal or chief among them,
                     by a certain degree of regard which the rest paid to him: they could not,
                     however, determine any thing with precision on this subject. Respect is always
                     paid to the old men among them, who may be supposed to owe their consequence to
                     the long experience they have gained. But their chiefs, such as we believed
                     this <persName>Teiratu</persName> to be, are strong, active, young men, in the
                     prime and flower of their age. These are perhaps elected, as among the North
                     American savages; being men of avowed courage, strength, and military sagacity;
                     from a consciousness that a body of men, in case of war, necessarily requires a
                     leader to animate them as a soul, and upon whose superior talents they may
                     consistently place all their hopes. The more we consider the warlike
                     disposition of the New Zeelanders, and the numerous small parties into which
                     they are divided, this form of government will appear indispensible; for it
                     must be evident to them that the qualifications of a chief are not to be
                     inherited, or propagated from father to son; and it is likewise probable, that
                     this free people may have had opportunities of making the obvious reflection,
                     that hereditary government has a natural tendency towards despotism.</p>

                  <p n="255">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, apprehensive lest the natives should find
                     our garden and destroy it, not knowing for what purpose it was intended,
                     conducted <persName>Teiratu</persName> thither, and shewed him every plant in
                     it, especially the potatoes. He expressed a great liking to the last, and
                     seemed to know them very well, evidently because a similar root, the Virginian
                     or sweet potatoe, (<hi rend="italics">convolvulus batatas</hi>), is planted
                     in some parts of the Northern Island, from whence he came. The captain parted
                     from him, after obtaining the promise that he would not destroy his
                     plantations, but leave every thing to grow up and propagate, and returned
                     aboard the Resolution, where the marines fired three vollies, and our crews
                     gave three heerty cheers in token of affection to their king.</p>

                  <p n="256">
                     <date>[Monday 7.]</date>The wind freshened considerably after noon, and
                     continued to blow very hard for two days following, so that we were obliged to
                     lie at anchor till the 7th in the morning, when we weighed and sailed out of
                        <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName>, in company with the Adventure. Our stay
                     here had proved so beneficial to our crews, that they might now be said to be
                     to the full as healthy as when they left <placeName>England</placeName>; and we
                     had only a single sick man, a marine, on board our sloop, who had laboured
                     under a consumption and dropsy ever since we had left
                        <placeName>England</placeName>.</p>
               </div>
               <div n="7" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VII.<lb/>
                     Run from <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> to
                           <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="257">
                     <date>[1773. June.]</date> WE entered <placeName>Cook's Strait</placeName>
                     after noon, and standing down to the southward, beheld the immense ocean before
                     us, which goes by the name of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. This vast
                     expanse of sea, through which many former navigators had passed, in the happy
                     climate of the torrid zone, but whose middle latitudes no European vessel,
                     except the Endeavour bark, had hitherto attempted to explore, has always been
                     believed to contain a large tract of land, distinguished by geographers with
                     the name of a Southern Continent. Previous to the Endeavour's voyage,
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> was thought the western coast of this
                     unknown land, and certain pretended discoveries near
                        <placeName>America</placeName> were asserted as its eastern shores.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> in that voyage having cut off both these
                     by his course, and even penetrated to <geo select="lat">40 degrees of
                     s</geo>outh latitude without finding land, the southern continent was
                     restrained within narrower limits, though these were still considerable enough
                     to engage the attention of future nagivators. We were now to enter on this
                     unexplored part, and running to the eastward between the <geo select="lat">50th
                        and 40th degrees of s</geo>gouth latitude, to search for undiscovered
                     countries in the depth of winter. Many among our fellow-voyagers proceeded on
                     this dangerous expedition in the firm belief that we should speedily find the
                     coasts we went in quest of, whose novelty and valuable productions would amply
                     reward our perseverance and fatigues. But <persName>captain Cook</persName>,
                     and several others, judging from what had been done in the former voyage, and
                     what they had already experienced on this, were far from expecting to discover
                     new lands, and greatly doubted the existence of a southern continent.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 7: Wrote 'of' and wrote out 'degrees'.-->

                  <p n="258">
                     <date>[Tuesday 8.]</date> We were still in the mouth of the strait at eight the
                     next morning, and saw the high mountains of the southern isle loaded with snow,
                     from whence they had their name, whilst the weather below was clear and mild,
                     our thermometer being about 51° in the shade. Great shoals of cetaceous fish,
                     of a perfectly black colour, with a white spot before the back fin, passed by
                     us. They were fired at from our vessel, and one of them being shot through the
                     head, could no longer plunge under water, but began to beat about furiously on
                     the surface, and tinged the sea with its blood. It seemed to be about three
                     yards long, and was slender and blunt-headed, from whence our sailors called it
                     the bottle-nose, a name which <persName>Dale</persName> applies to a very
                     different fish, the beaked whale, of which the beak or nose resembles the neck
                     of a bottle<ref target="#edn63">
                        <note xml:id="edn63" anchored="true"> See <persName>Pennant's</persName>
                           British Zoology. </note>
                     </ref>. We went at the rate of three knots and a half at this time, so that it
                     was not thought proper to bring to, for the sake of taking up the dead
                     fish.</p>

                  <p n="259">
                     <date>[Wednesday 9.]</date>An infinite number of albatrosses, of all the three
                     species, hovered about us, after we were out of sight of the land. The common
                     or large sort were of diverse colours, which we believed to differ according to
                     age, and that the oldest were almost wholly white, those next them somewhat
                     more sprinkled with brown, and the youngest quite brown. Some of our sailors,
                     who had formerly sailed on board of East-India ships, after comparing the
                     facility of those voyages to the hardships of the present, propagated the
                     ludicrous idea among their messmates, that these birds contained the departed
                     souls of old India captains; who now, exiled to a part of the ocean which they
                     shunned before, were forced to gather a precarious subsistence instead of
                     enjoying their former affluence, and were made the sport of storms which they
                     had never felt in their cabbins. This stroke, which may pass for witty enough,
                     confirms what I have before observed of the original humour of sea-faring
                     men.</p>

                  <p n="260">The officers, who could not yet relish their salt provisions, after the
                     refreshments of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, had ordered their black
                     dog, mentioned p. 135, to be killed, and sent the captain one half of it; this
                     day therefore we dined for the first time on a leg of it roasted, which tasted
                     so exactly like mutton, that it was absolutely undistinguishable. In our cold
                     countries where animal food is so much used, and where to be carnivorous
                     perhaps lies in the nature of men, or is indispensibly necessary to the
                     preservation of their health and strength, it is strange that there should
                     exist a Jewish aversion to dogs-flesh, when hogs, the most uncleanly of all
                     animals are eaten without scruple. Nature seems expressly to have intended them
                     for this use, by making their offspring so very numerous, and their encrease so
                     quick and frequent. It may be objected, that the exalted degree of instinct,
                     which we observe in our dogs, inspires us with great unwillingness to kill and
                     eat them. But it is owing to the time we spend on the education of dogs, that
                     they acquire those eminent qualities which attach them so much to us. The
                     natural qualities of our dogs may receive a wonderful improvement, but
                     education must give its assistance, without which the human mind itself, though
                     capable of an immense expansion, remains in a very contracted state. In
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and (according to former accounts of
                     voyages) in the tropical isles of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, the
                     dogs are the most stupid, dull animals imaginable, and do not seem to have the
                     least advantage in point of sagacity over our sheep, which are commonly made
                     the emblems of silliness. In the former country they are fed upon fish, in the
                     latter on vegetables, and both these diets may have served to alter their
                     disposition. Education may perhaps likewise graft new instincts; the New
                     Zeeland dogs are fed on the remains of their masters' meals; they eat the bones
                     of other dogs, and the puppies become true cannibals from their birth. We had a
                     young New Zeeland puppy on board, which had certainly had no opportunity of
                     tasting any thing but the mother's milk before we purchased it; however it
                     eagerly devoured a portion of the flesh and bones of the dog, on which we dined
                     to-day; while several others of the European breed taken on board at the Cape,
                     turned from it without touching it.</p>

                  <p n="261">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 16.]</date>We kept standing to the south-eastward till the 16th
                     at noon, attended by numerous birds of the petrel and albatross kind, together
                     with now and then a skua, or Port-Egmont hen. Beds of sea-weeds frequently were
                     seen floating on the sea, but we were now too much accustomed to their
                     appearance, to attempt to draw any conclusions from it. The thermometer, which
                     at our departure from <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, stood at 51° at
                        <time>eight o'clock in the morning</time>, sunk in proportion as we came to
                     the southward to 48°, and sometimes to 47° at the same time of day; but the
                     temperature of the air upon the whole was extremely variable, and the weather
                     equally unsettled. From thence it arose, that we daily observed rainbows, or
                     parts of them about the horizon, especially in the morning. The wind during
                     this time was likewise very changeable, and veered round the compass in a
                     direction contrary to the course of the sun, that is, from west round by the
                     north towards east, and so further on; but it chiefly prevailed from the
                     easterly quarter, where we least expected it, so that our situation became
                     tedious, and was made more irksome by frequent fogs, rains, and heavy swells.
                     Having reached the latitude of <geo select="lat">46° 17' s</geo>outh, we
                     directed our course to the north-eastward, as much as the wind would
                     permit.</p>

                  <p n="262">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 23.]</date>On the 23d, the weather being mild and the wind very
                     moderate, <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> came on board, and dined with
                     us. He acquainted <persName>captain Cook</persName>, that all his people
                     continued in good health, except one or two, who were infected with a nauseous
                     disease, which is propagated by connections with the other sex. This
                     information gave us great uneasiness, it being evident that the distemper had
                     already reached <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, since our men must have
                     received it there. Struck with the horrid consequences which this evil would
                     entail on the New Zeelanders, we recapitulated the opportunities which those
                     people had of catching the infection from Europeans. The first discoverer of
                     this country, in 1642, <persName>Abel Janssen Tasman</persName> had not the
                     least amicable intercourse with the inhabitants, and none of his people appear
                     to have been ashore upon it. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, the next
                     navigator, who visited it in the Endeavour Bark, 1769 and 1770, came from
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName> where several of his people had contracted venereal
                     complaints. However, as his passage lasted nearly two months, the surgeon
                     reported, when they made the coast, that no man had any symptoms of the
                     distemper about him. Notwithstanding this assurance <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> had the precaution, not to suffer any person to go on shore,
                     who had been under cure, and might be suspected to have some latent remains of
                     this infectious evil; and to preclude the possibility of communicating it to a
                     guiltless people, he never suffered the women to come on board. <persName>M. de
                        Surville</persName>, a French navigator, sailed from
                        <placeName>Pondichery</placeName> in the <placeName>St. Jean
                        Baptiste</placeName>, passed through the <placeName>Straits of
                        Malacca</placeName>, touched at the <placeName>Bashee Isles</placeName>,
                     went round <placeName>Manila</placeName>, saw land to the S. E. of
                        <placeName>New Britain</placeName>, about the latitude of <geo select="lat">10 3/4°</geo>, and longitude <geo select="lon">158° e</geo>ast, which he
                     called <placeName>Port Surville</placeName>; touched at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, and proceeded to <placeName>Callao</placeName>, in
                        <placeName>South America</placeName> in order to trade there; but being
                     drowned in the landing, and all his letter of recommendation being lost with
                     him, the ship was detained near two years, and then sent to
                        <placeName>France</placeName>, with all her merchandize. <persName>M. de
                        Surville</persName> lay in <placeName>Doubtless Bay</placeName>, on the 9th
                     of December, 1769, and saw the Endeavour standing past him, though
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> could not see his vessel, which lay under
                     the land. What stay <persName>M. de Surville</persName> made there, and upon
                     what terms he was with the natives, I know not; but the distance between this
                     place and <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, and the want of
                     intercourse between the inhabitants of both ports, make it improbable, even
                     supposing the complaint to have existed among his crew, that it could have
                     reached so far south.</p>

                  <p n="263">The same thing may be said with regard to <persName>M. de
                        Marion</persName> and <persName>captain Crozet</persName>, two French
                     officers, whose expedition, in 1772, I have mentioned page 112; for the
                     communications which their crews had with the natives, was confined to the
                     environs of the <placeName>Bay of Islands</placeName>, in the northernmost part
                     of the northern isle. Our two sloops were the next in order, which touched at
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>; but we had not the least reason to
                     suppose, that they carried any venereal complaint to that country. They had
                     left the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, the last place where it is
                     possible the sailors might contract this disorder, six months before they came
                     to <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, five of which they had been
                     at sea; an interval in which a radical cure may be expected, unless the disease
                     be of too inveterate a nature. However, they were far from having any patients
                     of this sort on board, and it is not likely that the poison could lay dormant
                     during that long interval of time, in a set of men who had no other than salt
                     provisions to live upon, and spirituous liquors to drink, and who were exposed
                     to wet and cold, and all the rigours of southern climates. We therefore
                     concluded, that from all the concurring circumstances, the venereal disease was
                     indigenous in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and not imported by
                     Europeans; and we have hitherto had no reason to alter our opinion on this
                     subject. But if, in spite of appearances, our conclusions should prove
                     erroneous, it is another crime added to the score of civilized nations, which
                     must make their memory execrated by the unhappy people, whom they have
                     poisoned. Nothing can in the least atone for the injury they have done to
                     society, since the price at which their libidinous enjoyments were purchased,
                     instils another poison into the mind, and destroys the moral principles, while
                     the disease corrupts and enervates the body. (see pag. 212). A race of men, who
                     admidst all their savage roughness, their fiery temper, and cruel customs, are
                     brave, generous, hospitable, and incapable of deceiving, are justly to be
                     pitied, that love, the source of their sweetest and happiest feelings, is
                     converted into the origin of the most dreadful scourge of life.</p>

                  <p n="264">
                     <date>[1773. July.]</date>The wind still continued as changeable as before,
                     till the beginning of July, having veered all round the compass against the
                     sun, more than four times. During this space albatrosses, petrels, and
                     sea-weeds, were frequently seen; rainbows also appeared almost every morning,
                     nay one night we observed this phӕnomenon pretty strong, caused by the
                     refracted light of the moon.</p>

                  <p n="265">
                     <date>[Friday 9.]</date>On the 9th of July we were nearly in the same
                     longitude, where <persName>captain Cook</persName>, in the Endeavour, had
                     reached <geo select="lon">40° 22' s</geo>outh<ref target="#edn64">
                        <note xml:id="edn64" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           Compilation, vol. II. p. 282. </note>
                     </ref>, but our latitude was about two degrees and a quarter more southerly.
                     Here we lost a young he-goat, which fell over board, and notwithstanding all
                     possible means were tried for his recovery, such as chasing, injecting clysters
                     of the fumes of tobacco, &amp;c. our endeavours proved entirely
                     ineffectual.</p>

                  <p n="266">
                     <date>[Saturday 17.]</date>July 17th having past the longitude of <geo select="lon">227° e</geo>ast, and being in about <geo select="lat">40°
                        s</geo>outh latitude, we began to run due north, after a very tedious course
                     in search of the southern continent, the existence of which, in the latitudes
                     we had now passed through, had been positively asserted. The uncomfortable
                     season of the year, the many contrary winds, and the total want of interesting
                     incidents united to make this run extremely tedious to us all, and the only
                     point we had gained by it, was the certainty that no great land was situated in
                     the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> about the middle latitudes. In five days
                     time our latitude being <geo select="lat">31° s</geo>outh, we began to lose
                     sight of albatrosses and petrels, and the thermometer was risen to 61 1/2, so
                     that we began to change our winter clothes for others, considerably thinner,
                     for the first time after leaving the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>.
                     The spirits of all our people were much exhilarated in proportion as we
                     approached to the tropics, and our sailors diverted themselves with a variety
                     of plays every evening. The genial mildness of the air was so welcome to us,
                     after a long absence from it, that we could not help preferring the warm
                     climates as the best adapted for the abode of mankind. <date>[Sunday
                        25.]</date>We saw a tropic bird on the 25th in the afternoon, a sure sign
                     that we were arrived into the temperate climates below <geo select="lat">30°</geo> of latitude. The setting sun illumined the clouds with the most
                     brilliant tints of gold, which confirmed us in the opinion that the colours of
                     the sky are no where so rich and beautiful as between or near the tropics.</p>

                  <p n="267">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 28.]</date>On the 28th we spoke with the Adventure, and heard
                     that they had buried their cook three days ago, and that about twenty of her
                     people were very ill of the scurvy. This was the more surprising to us, as we
                     had but very few people affected with any symptoms of that disorder, and only
                     one who was dangerously sick. The next day <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     sent one of his seamen with a warrant to act as cook on board the Adventure;
                     and several of our gentlemen took the opportunity of going to dine with their
                     friends. They found <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> and some others very
                     ill of a rheumatic complaint, and many of the people had fluxes. Their
                     carpenter was remarkable ill of the scurvy, and had great livid blotches on his
                     legs. This difference between the salubrity of the two vessels probably arose
                     from the want of fresh air in the Adventure, our sloop being higher out of the
                     water, so that we could open more scuttles in bad weather than our consort. Our
                     people likewise made a greater consumption of sour-krout and wort, and
                     particularly applied the grains of the latter to all blotches and swelled
                     parts, a regimen which had been omitted by those in the Adventure. On this
                     occasion it is not improper to remark, that the scurvy is more dangerous and
                     virulent in warm climates than in cold. As long as we had kept in high
                     latitudes it did not make its appearance, or was at least confined to a few
                     individuals, who were naturally of a bad habit of body; but we had scarcely had
                     ten days of warm weather when one man died, and a number of others were
                     affected with the worst symptoms of this dreadful distemper, on board the
                     Adventure. It should therefore seem that the heat contributes to inflammation
                     and putrefaction; and its general effect, even among those who had no dangerous
                     scorbutic complaints, was a great degree of languor and debility.</p>

                  <p n="268">
                     <date>[1773. August.][Wednesday 4.]</date>On the 4th of August a young bitch,
                     of the terrier breed, taken on board at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>, and covered by a spaniel, brought ten young ones, one of
                     which was dead. The <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> dog, mentioned above,
                     which devoured the bones of the roasted dog, now fell upon the dead puppy, and
                     ate of it with a ravenous appetite. This is a proof how far education may go in
                     producing and propagating new instincts in animals. European dogs are never fed
                     on the meat of their own species, but rather seem to abhor it. The
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> dogs, in all likelihood, are trained up
                     from their earliest age to eat the remains of their master's meals; they are
                     therefore used to feed upon fish, their own species, and perhaps human flesh;
                     and what was only owing to habit at first, may have become instinct by length
                     of time. This was remarkable in our cannibal-dog, for he came on board so
                     young, that he could not have been weaned long enough to acquire a habit of
                     devouring his own species, and much less of eating human flesh; however, one of
                     our seamen having cut his finger, held it out to the dog, who fell to greedily,
                     licked it, and then began to bite into it.</p>

                  <p n="269">On the 6th, in the afternoon, being in about <geo select="lat">19 1/2
                        deg. of s</geo>outh latitude, we got the easterly trade-wind, which set in
                     fresh after several calms, attended with heavy showers of rain. The sun being
                     at this time still in the opposite hemisphere, was probably the cause of our
                     meeting with this wind so much later than usual, the tropics being generally
                     reckoned its limits. Agreeable to the observation which we now made, we had
                     found the trade-wind, in August 1772, at <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, though
                     that island is situated in <geo select="lat">33° of n</geo>orth latitude. But
                     the most remarkable occurrence in our run was the nature of the winds previous
                     to our obtaining the trade-wind. We had expected that, by going in a middle
                     latitude between <geo select="lat">50 and 40 deg. s</geo>outh, we should meet
                     with regular westerly winds, which are common in our seas during the winter
                     months; instead of this we found them veering around the compass in two or
                     three days time, never settling in any other than the eastern quarter, and
                     sometimes blowing with great violence. Thus the name of <placeName>Pacific
                        Ocean</placeName>, which has formerly been given to the whole
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, is, in my opinion, applicable only to a
                     part of it between the tropics, where the winds are steady and uniform, the
                     weather in general fair and mild, and the sea not so much agitated as in higher
                     latitudes.</p>


                  <p n="270">Albecores, bonitos, and dolphins gave chace to many shoals of
                     flying-fish, in the same manner as we had observed them in the Atlantic; while
                     several large black-birds, with long wings and forked tails, which are commonly
                     called men of war (<hi rend="italics">pelecanus</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">aquilus</hi>, Linn.) soared at a vast height in the air,
                     and sometimes descending into a lower region, viewed a fish swimming under
                     them, and darted down with amazing velocity, never failing to strike the fish
                     with their bill. It is a well known fact, that gannets, which are birds of the
                     same genus in the English seas, catch fish in a similar manner. The fishermen
                     on the coast frequently fix a pilchard or herring on the point of a knife
                     fastened to a floating board, and the bird darting down upon it transfixes
                     itself on the knife.</p>

                  <p n="271">On the 11th, in the morning, we discovered a low island to the
                     southward of us, which seemed about four miles long, and about six miles
                     distant. It appeared to be almost level with the sea, only some groups of trees
                     rose above the horizon, and among them a few cocoa-nut palms out-topped the
                     rest. To people in our situation, exhausted with a tedious passage, the bare
                     sight of land was sufficient to give some consolation, though we could not
                     expect to reap any benefit from its productions; and therefore this island,
                     though divested of every thing strikingly beautiful, yet pleased the eye by the
                     simplicity of its form. Our thermometer was now constantly between 70 and 80
                     degrees in the morning; but the heat was far from being troublesome, as the
                     fair weather was accompanied by a strong pleasant trade-wind, and our awnings
                     were spread over the quarter-deck. This island, which was called Resolution
                     Island, seems to have been seen by <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>. Its
                     latitude is <geo select="lat" n="1">17° 24' s</geo>outh, and its longitude <geo select="lon" n="1">141° 39' w</geo>est from Greenwich. Our observation at
                     noon was <geo select="lat">17° 17' s</geo>outh, our course being nearly east.
                     In the evening, at <time>half past six o'clock</time>, we saw another island of
                     the same nature as the preceding, about four leagues distant, which was named
                        <placeName>Doubtful Island</placeName>. It being after sun-set, we stood to
                     the northward till we had passed by it. <date>[Thursday 12.]</date>The next
                     morning, before day-break, we were alarmed by the sudden appearance of breakers
                     within half a mile a-head of us. We changed our course instantly, apprized our
                     consort of the danger by proper signals, and then stood along the reef. As soon
                     as it was light we distinguished an island of a circular form, including a
                     large bason or lagoon of sea-water; the northern shores were covered with trees
                     and palms in various clusters, which had a very elegant appearance; but all the
                     rest was a narrow ledge of rocks, over which the surf beat with great violence;
                     within it the lagoon was shallow near us, but deeper under the wooded part; a
                     difference which could easily be distinguished by the whiter or the bluer
                     colour of the water. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> gave this isle the name
                     of <placeName>Furneaux Island</placeName>; it is situated in <geo select="lat" n="2">17° 5' s</geo>outh latitude, and <geo select="lon" n="2">143° 16'
                        w</geo>est longitude. Standing along this reef we saw a canoe sailing near
                     the northern part of the isle, and by the help of glasses we observed six or
                     seven men in it, one of which was placed at the stern steering with a paddle.
                     They did not seem to have embarked in order to reconnoitre us, as they did not
                     approach the southern reef, but kept close in with the wooded part of the
                     island. We proceeded all day with a favourable breeze and fair weather till
                     sun-set; but the navigation between these low islands and reefs being extremely
                     dangerous, because they can only been seen at short distances, we were obliged
                     to bring to at night in order to avoid meeting with them unawares.
                        <date>[Friday 13.]</date> Early the next morning we left another island of
                     this kind on our starboard quarter, which was called <placeName>Adventure
                        Island</placeName>; it lies in <geo select="lat" n="3">17° 4' s</geo>outh
                     latitude, and <geo select="lon" n="3">144° 30' w</geo>est longitude. We spoke
                     with the Adventure about the same time, and were told she had above thirty men
                     on the sick list, most of them ill of the scurvy. Our sloop still kept rather
                     free of this distemper, and every precaution was taken to preserve our crew in
                     health by a plentiful use of sour-krout, by airing the hammocks every day, and
                     frequently smoaking the ship with gunpowder and vinegar.</p>

                  <p n="272">In the afternoon we saw an island right a-head, consisting of several
                     clumps of trees, united by one reef, and from its situation we judged it was
                     the same which <placeName>Captain Cook</placeName> named <placeName>Chain
                        Island</placeName> in his former voyage<ref target="#edn65">
                        <note xml:id="edn65" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 77. </note>
                     </ref>. To prevent losing our time by bringing the sloops to at night, we
                     hoisted a boat out, and sent it to sail ahead of our vessels, with a light, and
                     to make signals in case of danger. The <placeName>South Sea</placeName> between
                     the tropics, contains many low islands, singularly constructed, which are level
                     with the sea in most places, and at the utmost a yard or two above it. They
                     have frequently a circular form, including a lagoon or bason of sea-water in
                     their centre, and the depth of the sea all round them is unfathomable, the
                     rocks rising perpendicularly from the bottom. Their productions must be few,
                     and cocoa nut-trees are probably the most useful which they contain; but
                     notwithstanding this circumstance and their small size, many of them are
                     inhabited. The question how such little spots came to be peoples is not easily
                     to be answered; but it is not easier to determine how the higher islands in the
                     South Sea have acquired their inhabitants. Commodore (now Admiral)
                        <persName>Byron</persName>, and <persName>Captain Wallis</persName>, who
                     sent some of their people on shore upon these low islands, found their
                     inhabitants shy and jealous of strangers; a disposition which is perhaps owing
                     to the difficulty of preserving their existence from the scanty provisions on
                     their narrow circle, and which may be heightened by the consciousness that
                     their small numbers render them liable to oppression. The language of these
                     people, and their customs, are therefore still unknown, and these are the only
                     circumstances from which the origin of nations, who have no records among them,
                     can be traced.</p>

                  <p n="273">Early on the 15th of August we saw a high peak with a flattish summit,
                     first discovered by <persName>Captain Wallis</persName>, who called it
                        <placeName>Osnabruck Island</placeName>, and afterwards by <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName>, in whose chart it has the names of <placeName>Pic
                        de la Boudeuse</placeName>, or <placeName>le Boudoir</placeName>. The
                     mountain appeared of a considerable height, and its top was broken or excavated
                     perfectly like the crater of a volcano, which seemed evidently to have existed
                     here. The island was nearly of a circular form, and the mountain rose steep to
                     a conical shape from all parts of the sea-shore, there being but little level
                     land round its foot. The whole mountain was green, and the bottom or low land
                     was covered with trees. While we eagerly feasted our eyes with this pleasing
                     prospect, one of our officers, who had formerly been sent close in shore there
                     by <persName>Captain Wallis</persName>, told us that the trees were of the kind
                     which bear the bread-fruit, so much extolled in the voyages of
                        <persName>Anson</persName>, <persName>Byron</persName>,
                        <persName>Wallis</persName>, and <persName>Cook</persName>. He acquainted us
                     at the same time, that the natives were of the same race as those who dwell on
                        <placeName>O Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>, of which the first is within half a day's sail; and that
                     they give the name of <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Maâtea</hi>
                        <ref target="#edn66">
                           <note xml:id="edn66" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 78. Maitea. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName> to their own island. We never came nearer than four leagues to it,
                     which was probably the reason that no canoes came off to visit us. Having very
                     little wind we hoisted a boat out, which went on board the Adventure, and
                     brought <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName> to dine with us. We had the
                     pleasure to learn from him, that the flux among his crew was ceased, and that
                     none of his people were in any imminent danger from the scurvy; we hoped
                     therefore, from our vicinity to O-Taheitee, to have a speedy opportunity of
                     restoring their health by a wholesome vegetable diet.</p>

                  <p n="274">In the evening, about sun-set, we plainly saw the mountains of that
                     desirable island, lying before us, half emerging from the gilded clouds on the
                     horizon. Every man on board, except one or two who were not able to walk,
                     hastened eagerly to the forecastle to feast their eyes on an object, of which
                     they were taught to form the highest expectations, both in respect of the
                     abundance of refreshments, and of the kind and generous temper of the natives,
                     whose character has pleased all the navigators who have visited them. The first
                     discoverer was probably a Spaniard, <persName>Pedro Fernandez de
                        Quiros</persName>, who sailed from <placeName>Lima</placeName> in
                        <placeName>Peru</placeName>, on the 21st of December 1605. He made an island
                     on the 10th of February 1606, calling it <hi rend="italics">la Sagittaria<ref target="#edn67">
                           <note xml:id="edn67" anchored="true"> See an <hi rend="italics">Historical Collection of the several Voyages and Discoveries in
                                 the <placeName>South Pacific Ocean</placeName>
                              </hi>, by <persName>Alexander Dalrymple</persName>, Esq. vol. I, p.
                              109 to 117. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </hi>, which, from all the concurring circumstances, seems to have been
                        <persName>O-Taheitee</persName>. He found no harbours on the south part,
                     where he fell in with it; but the people he sent ashore were treated with the
                     greated marks of friendship and kindness. Captain Wallis next found this island
                     on the 18th of June 1767, and called it <placeName>George the Third's
                        Island</placeName>. Some unhappy misunderstanding arising between him and
                     the natives at first, he fired upon them, killed about fifteen, and wounded a
                     great number; but these good tempered people, forgetting the great loss they
                     had sustained, and the wounds their brethren had received, made peace with him
                     soon after, and furnished him with a profusion of refreshments, consisting of
                     several roots, many sorts of rich fruit, fowls, and hogs. <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> arrived in the eastern part on the 2d of April 1768,
                     or about nine months and a half after the departure of <persName>Captain
                        Wallis</persName>, and discovered the true indigenous name of this island;
                     sensible of the amiable character of the inhabitants, he staid ten days among
                     them, giving and receiving frequent marks of friendship and regard.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, in the Endeavour, arriving here in April
                     1769, to observe the transit of Venus, circumnavigated the whole island in a
                     boat; and, during a stay of three months, had daily opportunities of confirming
                     the observations already made upon this subject.</p>

                  <p n="275">We stood on towards this island all night, and the favourable ideas
                     which were raised by the accounts of former navigators, made us pass some happy
                     hours in expectation of the morning. We resolved to forget our fatigues and the
                     inclemencies of southern climates; the clouds which had hitherto hung lowering
                     upon our brows were dispersed; the loathed images of disease and the terrors of
                     death were fled, and all our cares at rest.</p>

                  <p n="276">
                     <q>________ Somno positi sub nocte silenti</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="277">
                     <q>Lenibant curas, et corda oblita laborum. <persName>Virgil</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="278"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="8" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VIII.<lb/>
                     Anchorage in <placeName>O-Aitepeha harbour</placeName>, on the lesser
                        peninsula of <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> - Account of our stay there.
                        - Removal to <placeName>Matavai Bay</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="279">
                     <q>
                        <l>Devenere locos lӕtos et amœna vireta</l>
                        <l>Fortunatorum nemorum, sedesque beatas.</l>
                        <l>Largior hic campos ӕther, et lumine vestit</l>
                        <l>Purpureo.</l>
                        <persName>Virgil</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="280">
                     <date>[1773. August.][Monday 16.]</date>IT was one of those beautiful mornings
                     which the poets of all nations have attempted to describe, when we saw the
                        <placeName>isle of O-Taheite</placeName>, within two miles before us. The
                     east-wind which had carried us so far, was entirely vanished, and a faint
                     breeze only wafted a delicious perfume from the land, and curled the surface of
                     the sea. The mountains, clothed with forests, rose majestic in various spiry
                     forms, on which we already perceived the light of the rising sun: nearer to the
                     eye a lower range of hills, easier of ascent, appeared, wooded like the former,
                     and coloured with several pleasing hues of green, soberly mixed with autumnal
                     browns. At their foot lay the plain, crowned with its fertile bread-fruit
                     trees, over which rose innumerable palms, the princes of the grove. Here every
                     thing seemed as yet asleep, the morning scarce dawned, and a peaceful shade
                     still rested on the landscape. We discerned however, a number of houses among
                     the trees, and many canoes hauled up along the sandy beaches. About half a mile
                     from the shore a ledge of rocks level with the water, extended parallel to the
                     land, on which the surf broke, leaving a smooth and secure harbour within. The
                     sun beginning to illuminate the plain, its inhabitants arose, and enlivened the
                     scene. Having perceived the large vessels on their coast, several of them
                     hastened to the beach, launched their canoes, and paddled towards us, who were
                     highly delighted in watching all their occupations.</p>

                  <p n="281">The canoes soon passed through the openings in the reef, and one of
                     them approached within hale. In it were two men almost naked, with a kind or
                     turban on the head, and a sash round their waist. They waved a large green
                     leaf, and accosted us with the repeated exclamation of <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn68">
                        <note xml:id="edn68" anchored="true"> See
                              <persName>Bougainville's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Voyage</hi>, English Edition, p. 217. </note>
                     </ref>! which even without the help of vocabularies, we could easily translate
                     into the expression of proffered friendship. The canoe now came under our
                     stern, and we let down a present of beads, nails, and medals to the men. In
                     return, they handed up to us a green stem of a plantane, which was their symbol
                     of peace, with a desire that it might be fixed in a conspicuous part of the
                     vessel. It was accordingly stuck up in the main shrouds, upon which our new
                     friends immediately returned towards the land. In a short time we saw great
                     crouds of people on the seashore gazing at us, while numbers in consequence of
                     this treaty of peace, which was now firmly established, launched their canoes,
                     and loaded them with various productions of their country. In less than an hour
                     we were surrounded by an hundred canoes, each of which carried one, two, three,
                     and sometimes four persons, who placed a perfect confidence in us, and had no
                     arms whatsoever. The welcome sound of <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi> resounded
                     on all sides, and we returned it with a degree of heart-felt pleasure, on this
                     favourable change of our situation. Coco-nuts, and plantanes in great quantity,
                     bread-fruit and several other vegetables, besides some fresh fish were offered
                     to us, and eagerly exchanged for transparent beads, and small nails. Pieces of
                     cloth, fish-hooks, hatchets of stone, and a number of tools, were likewise
                     brought for sale and readily disposed of; and many canoes kept plying between
                     us and the shore, exhibiting a picture of a new kind of fair. I immediately
                     began to trade for natural productions through the cabin-windows, and in half
                     an hour had got together two or three species of unknown birds, and a great
                     number of new fishes, whose colours while alive were exquisitely beautiful. I
                     therefore employed the morning in sketching their outlines, and laying on the
                     vivid hues, before they disappeared in the dying objects.</p>

                  <p n="282">The people around us had mild features, and a pleasing countenance;
                     they were about our size, of a pale mahogany brown, had fine black hair and
                     eyes, and wore a piece of cloth round their middle of their own manufacture,
                     and another wrapped about the head in various picturesque shapes like a turban.
                     Among them were several females, pretty enough to attract the attention of
                     Europeans, who had not seen their own country-women for twelve long months
                     past. These wore a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, through which they
                     had passed the head, so that one part of the garment hung down behind, and the
                     other before, to the knees; a fine white cloth like a muslin, was passed over
                     this in various elegant turns round the body, a little below the breast,
                     forming a kind of tunic, of which one turn sometimes fell gracefully across the
                     shoulder. If this dress had not entirely that perfect form, so justly admired
                     in the draperies of the ancient Greek statues, it was however infinitely
                     superior to our expectations, and much more advantageous to the human figure,
                     than any modern fashion we had hitherto seen. Both sexes were adorned, or
                     rather disfigured, by those singular black stains, occasioned by puncturing the
                     skin, and rubbing a black colour into the wounds, which are mentioned by former
                     voyagers. They were particularly visible on the loins of the common men, who
                     went almost naked, and exhibited a proof how little the ideas of ornament of
                     different nations agree, and yet how generally they all have adopted such aids
                     to their personal perfection. It was not long before some of these good people
                     came aboard. That peculiar gentleness of disposition, which is their general
                     characteristic, immediately manifested itself in all their looks and actions,
                     and gave full employment to those, who made the human heart their study. They
                     expressed several marks of affection in their countenance, took hold of our
                     hands, leaned on our shoulder, or embraced us. They admired the whiteness of
                     our bodies, and frequently pushed aside our clothes from the breast, as if to
                     convince themselves that we were made like them.</p>

                  <p n="283">Many of them seeing us desirous of learning their language, by asking
                     the names of various familiar objects, or repeating such as we found in the
                     vocabularies of former voyagers, took great pains to teach us, and were much
                     delighted when we could catch the just pronunciation of a word. For my own
                     part, no language seemed easier to acquire than this; every harsh and sibilant
                     consonant being banished from it, and almost every word ending in a vowel. The
                     only requisite, was a nice ear to distinguish the numerous modification of
                     their vowels, which must naturally occur in a language confined to few
                     consonants, and which, once rightly understood, give a great degree of delicacy
                     to conversation. Amongst several other observations, we immediately found that
                     the O or E with which the greatest part of the names and words in
                        <persName>lieutenant Cook's</persName> first voyage, begin, is nothing else
                     than the article, which many eastern languages affix to the greater part of
                     their substantives. In consequence of this remark, I shall always in the sequel
                     either omit this prefix, or separate it from the word itself by a hyphen: and I
                     cannot help taking notice that <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> has been
                     fortunate enough to catch the name of the island without the additional O, and
                     expressed it as well as the nature of the French language will permit, by
                     Taïti, which, with the addition of a slight aspirate, we pronounce
                        <placeName>Taheâtee</placeName> or <placeName>Tahitee</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="284">Seeing an opening in the reef before us, which was the entrance to the
                     harbour of <placeName>Whaï-Urua</placeName>, in the lesser peninsula of
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, we sent a boat to sound in it, which
                     found convenient anchorage. The boat afterwards proceeded to the shore, where a
                     croud of the natives gathered round it, and we heard the squeaking of pigs,
                     which was at this time a more welcome sound to us, than the music of the most
                     brilliant performer. Our people, however, were not so fortunate as to purchase
                     any of them, all their offers being constantly refused, under the pretext that
                     these animals belonged to the <hi rend="italics">aree</hi>, or king.</p>

                  <p n="285">A canoe now came alongside, of a somewhat larger size than the rest,
                     and brought a handsome man, above six feet high, and three women, who all came
                     on board. The man who immediately informed us, that his name was
                        <persName>O-Taï</persName>, seemed to be a person of some consequence in
                     this part of the island, and we supposed he belonged to that class of vassals,
                     or freeholders, who are called Manahounas in the first voyage of
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>. He came on the quarter-deck, to all
                     appearance thinking, that a place where our chiefs were stationed, best became
                     him. He was remarkable fairer than any of the natives we had yet seen, and
                     resembled in colour the West Indian Mestizos. His features were really handsome
                     and regular; he had a high forehead, arched eyebrows, large black eyes,
                     sparkling with expression, and a well-proportioned nose; there was something
                     remarkably sweet and engaging about his mouth; the lips were prominent, but not
                     disagreeably large; and his beard was black, and finely frizzled; his hair was
                     of a jetty colour, and fell in strong curls down his neck; but seeing that we
                     all had ours queued, he made use of a black silk neckcloth, which <persName>Mr.
                        Clerke</persName> made him a present of, to imitate our fashion. The body
                     was in general well proportioned, though somewhat too lusty, and his feet were
                     rather too large to harmonize perfectly with the rest. By the help of
                     vocabularies we asked this man several questions. One of the first was, whether
                        <persName>Tootahàh</persName> was well? to this we were answered, that he
                     was dead, being killed by the men of <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>, or the
                     smaller peninsula, and that <persName>O-Aheatua</persName> was <hi rend="italics">e‑aree</hi> or the king of the latter; which was confirmed
                     by all the other natives. Of his three female companions, one was his wife, and
                     the other two his sisters: the latter took great pleasure in teaching us to
                     call them by their names, which were both sufficiently harmonious, one was
                     called <persName>Maroya</persName>, and the other <persName>Maroraï</persName>.
                     They were still fairer than <persName>O-Taï</persName>, but their stature was
                     small in comparison to his, being at least nine or ten inches less. The last
                     mentioned was a graceful figure, with the most delicate and beautiful contours,
                     in the hands and all above the zone. Their face was round, and their features
                     far from being so regular as those of the brother; but an ineffable smile sat
                     on their countenances. They seemed never to have been aboard of a ship before,
                     so much were they struck with admiration on beholding its variety of objects.
                     They did not content themselves with looking around the deck, but descended
                     into the officers cabins, whither a gentleman conducted them, and curiously
                     examined every part. <persName>Maroraï</persName> took a particular fancy to a
                     pair of sheets which she saw spread on one of the beds, and made a number of
                     fruitless attempts to obtain them from her conductor. He proposed a special
                     favour as the condition; she hesitated some time, and at last with seeming
                     reluctance consented; but when the victim was just led to the altar of Hymen,
                     the ship struck violently on the reef, and interrupted the solemnity. The
                     affrighted lover, more sensible of the danger than his fair mistress, flew in
                     haste upon deck, whither all the rest of our people crowded from their several
                     occupations. The tide, during a perfect calm, had driven us by insensible
                     degrees towards the reef of rocks; and actually set us upon it, before we could
                     come into the entrance of the harbour, which was as it were within our reach.
                     Repeated shocks made our situation every moment more terrifying; however,
                     providentially there was no swell which broke with any violence on the rocks,
                     and the sea breeze, which must have brought on absolute destruction to us, did
                     not come in all day. The officers, and all the passengers, exerted themselves
                     indiscriminately on this occasion, hoisted out the launch, and afterwards by
                     heaving upon an anchor, which had been carried out to a little distance,
                     succeeded in bringing the vessel afloat. The natives on board, seeing us work
                     so hard, assisted us in manning the capstan, hauling in ropes, and performing
                     all sorts of labour. If they had had the least spark of a treacherous
                     disposition, they could not have found a better opportunity of distressing us;
                     but they approved themselves good-natured, and friendly in this, as on all
                     other occasions. The heat during this violent exertion of our strength was
                     immense; the thermometer being upwards of ninety degrees in the shade, and the
                     sun blazing in a perfectly clear sky. The Adventure was close to us, and
                     escaped sharing the same distresses, by dropping an anchor in time. It was
                     another fortunate circumstance, that the reef shelved in this place so as to
                     admit of anchorage, which is indeed rarely the case, the coral rock being
                     perpendicular in most parts. It was about <time>three o'clock</time> when we
                     were afloat again, after working for about an hour and a half. We now took some
                     refreshments in a hurry, and as our situation was still extremely precarious,
                     in case an easterly wind had come on, we manned the boats of both sloops, and
                     were towed off to sea, where we felt a land-breeze gently swelling our sails,
                     about <time>five o'clock</time>. As soon as we were sure of it, we dispatched
                     the boats to the assistance of the Adventure; but she had already slipped her
                     cables, in order to take advantage of the favourable wind, and followed us. We
                     stood off and on all night, and saw the dangerous reefs illuminated by a number
                     of fires, by the light of which the natives were fishing. One of the officers
                     retiring to rest, found his bed deprived of the sheets, which in all
                     probability the fair <persName>Maroraï</persName> had taken care of, when
                     forsaken by her lover; though she must have managed this little concern with
                     considerable ingenuity, as she had appeared on deck before any suspicion had
                     fallen upon her.</p>

                  <p n="286">
                     <date>[Tuesday 17.]</date>The next morning we resumed our course towards the
                     shore, and stood in along the north part of the lesser peninsula. We were in a
                     short time surrounded, as the day before, by the natives, who in a great number
                     of canoes brought us abundance of vegetable, but no animal food, and whose
                     clamours were sometimes loud enough to stun our ears. These canoes very
                     frequently overset, but the natives were not much discomposed by such
                     accidents, as both sexes were expert swimmers, and re-established themselves in
                     a moment. Seeing that I enquired for plants, and other natural curiosities,
                     they brought off several, though sometimes only the leaves without the flowers,
                     and vice versa; however, among them we saw the common species of black
                     night-shade, and a beautiful <hi rend="italics">erythrina</hi>, or
                     coral-flower; I also collected by these means many shells, coralines, birds,
                     &amp;c.</p>

                  <p n="287">About <time>eleven o'clock</time> we anchored in a little harbour
                     called <placeName>O-Aitepeha</placeName>, on the north-east end of the southern
                     or lesser peninsula of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, named
                        <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>. Here the concourse of natives still
                     increased, and we saw their canoes coming towards us from all parts. They were
                     eager to obtain our beads, nails, and knives, for which an immense quantity of
                     their cloth, mats, baskets, and various tools, as well as abundance of
                     coco-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, and bananas were exchanged. Many of them came on
                     deck, and took the opportunity of conveying away a number of trifles; nay, some
                     went so far as privately to throw over board the coco-nuts, which we had
                     already purchased, to their comrades, who immediately picked them up, and sold
                     them to our people again. To prevent our being imposed upon for the future in
                     this manner, the thieves were turned out of the vessel, and punished with a
                     whip, which they bore very patiently.</p>

                  <p n="288">The heat was as great as it had been the day before, the thermometer
                     standing at 90° in the shade, when the sky was covered with clouds; the wind
                     likewise dying away again at noon to a perfect calm. Notwithstanding the waste
                     of fluids which the weather occasioned, we could not say that we found the
                     climate affected us too much, or was very disagreeable. On the contrary,
                     allowing for the violent exercise we had undergone at the striking of the ship,
                     we found ourselves more refreshed by the bare proximity of the shore, than we
                     could have expected. The bread-fruit and yams proved a luxurious and most
                     welcome substitute for worm-eaten biscuit; while plantanes, and a fruit of the
                     shape of an apple, called <hi rend="italics">e-vee</hi> by the natives,
                     furnished out a delicious desert. Our only remaining wish, with regard to
                     eatables, was to be able to purchase some hogs and fowls, which might supply
                     the place of salt beef.</p>

                  <p n="289">In the afternoon the captains, accompanied by several gentlemen, went
                     ashore the first time, in order to visit <placeName>O-Aheatua</placeName>, whom
                     all the natives thereabouts acknowledged as <hi rend="italics">aree</hi>, or
                     king. Numbers of canoes in the mean while surrounded us, carrying on a brisk
                     trade with vegetables, but chiefly with great quantities of the cloth made in
                     the island. The decks were likewise crouded with natives, among whom were
                     several women who yielded without difficulty to the ardent sollicitations of
                     our sailors. Some of the females who came on board for this purpose, seemed not
                     to be above nine or ten years old, and had not the least marks of puberty. So
                     early an acquaintance with the world seems to argue an uncommon degree of
                     voluptuousness, and cannot fail of affecting the nation in general. The effect,
                     which was immediately obvious to me, was the low stature of the common class of
                     people, to which all these prostitutes belonged. Among this whole order we saw
                     few persons above the middle size, and many below it; an observation which
                     confirms what <persName>M. de Buffon</persName> has very judiciously said on
                     the subject of early connections of the sexes, (see his Histoire Naturelle).
                     Their features were very irregular, and in general very ordinary, except the
                     eyes, which were always large and full of vivacity; but a natural smile, and a
                     constant endeavour to please, had so well replaced the want of beauty, that our
                     sailors were perfectly captivated, and carelessly disposed of their shirts and
                     cloaths to gratify their mistresses. The simplicity of a dress which exposed to
                     view a well proportioned bosom and delicate hands, might also contribute to fan
                     their amorous fire; and the view of several of these nymphs swimming nimbly all
                     round the sloop, such as nature had formed them, was perhaps more than
                     sufficient entirely to subvert the little reason which a mariner might have
                     left to govern his passions. A trifling circumstance had given cause to their
                     taking the water. One of the officers on the quarter-deck intended to drop a
                     bead into a canoe for a little boy about six years old; by accident it missed
                     the boat and fell into the sea; but the child immediately leaped overboard, and
                     diving after it brought it up again. To reward his performance we dropped some
                     more beads to him, which so tempted a number of men and women, that they amused
                     us with amazing feats of agility in the water, and not only fetched up several
                     beads scattered at once, but likewise large nails, which, on account of their
                     weight, descended quickly to a considerable depth. Some of them continued a
                     long while under water, and the velocity with which we saw them go down, the
                     water being perfectly clear, was very surprising. The frequent ablutions of
                     these people, already mentioned in <placeName>Captain Cook's</placeName> former
                     voyage, seem to make swimming familiar to them from their earliest childhood;
                     and indeed their easy position in the water, and the pliancy of their limbs,
                     gave us reason to look on them almost as amphibious creatures. They continued
                     this sport, and their other occupations about us, till sun-set, when they all
                     withdrew by degrees to the shore.</p>

                  <p n="290">In the evening the captains with their company returned on board,
                     without having seen the king, who, perhaps mistrusting their intentions, had
                     sent word, that he intended to visit us the next day. They had taken a walk
                     along the shore to the eastward, attended by a great croud of the natives, who
                     insisted on carrying them on their shoulders over a fine brook. After they had
                     passed it, the natives left them, and they proceeded accompanied by one man,
                     who guided them to an uncultivated projecting point, where different kinds of
                     plants grew in wild luxuriance among several sorts of shrubs. On coming out of
                     the shrubbery they saw a building of stones, in form of the frustum of a
                     pyramid; the base might measure about twenty yards in front, and the whole
                     consisted of several terraces or steps above each other, which were ruinous and
                     overgrown with grasses and shrubs, especially on the back or inland part. This
                     the native said was a burying-place and place of worship, <hi rend="italics">marài</hi>, and distinguished it by the name of <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">marai no-Aheatua</hi>
                     </placeName>, the burying-place of <persName>Aheatua</persName>, the present
                     king of <persName>Tiarroboo</persName>. Around it were placed perpendicularly,
                     or nearly so, fifteen slender pieces of wood, some about eighteen feet long, in
                     which six or eight diminutive human figures of a rude unnatural shape were
                     carved, standing above each other, male or female promiscuously, yet so that
                     the uppermost was always a male. All these figures faced the sea, and perfectly
                     resembled some which are carved on the sterns of their canoes, and which they
                     call <hi rend="italics">e-tee</hi>. Beyond the morai they saw a kind of
                     thatch erected on four posts, before which a lattice of sticks was placed in
                     the ground, hung with bananas and cocoa-nuts <hi rend="italics">no
                        t'Eatua</hi>, " for the Divinity" . They sat down to rest themselves under
                     the shade of this roof, and their guide seeing them a good deal exhausted, took
                     several of the bananas and offered them, with the assurance that they were
                        <hi rend="italics">mâa maitai</hi>, " good eating" . They accepted them
                     after this recommendation, and finding them really as delicious as they had
                     been described, made no scruple to feast with the gods. As the evening was now
                     advancing, they returned to the sea-shore, well pleased with their reception
                     among these good-natured people, and brought on board a few plants, which we
                     soon recognized as the productions common to tropical countries.</p>

                  <p n="291">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 18.]</date>We contemplated the scenery before us early the next
                     morning, when its beauties were most engaging. The harbour in which we lay was
                     very small, and would not have admitted many more vessels besides our own. The
                     water in it was as smooth as the finest mirrour, and the sea broke with a snowy
                     foam around us upon the outer reef. The plain at the foot of the hills was very
                     narrow in this place, but always conveyed the pleasing ideas of fertility,
                     plenty, and happiness. Just over against us it ran up between the hills into a
                     long narrow valley, rich in plantations, interspersed with the houses of the
                     natives. The slopes of the hills, covered with woods, crossed each other on
                     both sides, variously tinted according to their distances; and beyond them,
                     over the cleft of the valley, we saw the interior mountains shattered into
                     various peaks and spires, among which was one remarkable pinnacle, whose summit
                     was frightfully bent to one side, and seemed to threaten its downfall every
                     moment. The serenity of the sky, the genial warmth of the air, and the beauty
                     of the landscape, united to exhilarate our spirits.</p>

                  <p n="292">The launches of both ships were sent to <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">o Whai-urua</hi>
                     </placeName>, to fetch the anchors which we had left there when we struck on
                     the reef. A party of marines and seamen were ordered on shore at the same time,
                     to carry on a trade for provisions, and to fill our empty casks with fresh
                     water. For this purpose they occupied the remains of an abandoned shed or
                     cottage on the beach, which at once gave them shelter from the sun, and secured
                     them against the thievish disposition of the people. Before <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> went ashore he received a visit from a man of some note,
                     called <persName>o-Poòe</persName>, who brought his two sons on board. They
                     presented the captain with some of their cloth and some little trifles, and in
                     return they received knives, nails, beads, and a shirt, in which having dressed
                     themselves, they accompanied us to the shore.</p>

                  <p n="293">Our first care was to leave the dry sandy beach, which could afford us
                     no discoveries in our science, and to examine the plantations, which from the
                     ships had an enchanting appearance, notwithstanding the brownish cast which the
                     time of the year had given. We found them indeed to answer the expectations we
                     had formed of a country described as an elysium by <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName>, (see the English edition, p. 228). We entered a
                     grove of bread-trees, on most of which we saw no fruit at this season of
                     winter, and followed a neat but narrow path, which led to different
                     habitations, half hid under various bushes. Tall coco-palms nodded to each
                     other, and rose over the rest of the trees; the bananas displayed their
                     beautiful large leaves, and now and then one of them still appeared loaded with
                     its clustering fruit. A sort of shady trees, covered with a dark-green foliage,
                     bore golden apples, which resembled the anana in juiciness and flavour. Betwixt
                     these the intermediate space was filled with young mulberry-trees (<hi rend="italics">morus papyrifera</hi>), of which the bark is employed by the
                     natives in the manufacture of their cloth; with several species of arum or
                     eddies, with yams, sugar-canes, and other useful plants.</p>

                  <p n="294">We found the cottages of the natives scattered at short distances, in
                     the shade of fruit-trees, and surrounded by various odoriferous shrubs, such as
                     the gardenia, guettarda, and calophyllum. The next simplicity of their
                     structure gave us no less pleasure than the artless beauty of the grove which
                     encompassed them. The pandang<ref target="#edn69">
                        <note xml:id="edn69" anchored="true">
                           <hi rend="italics">Athrodactylis</hi>. Char. Gen. Novor. Forster.
                           London 1776. <hi rend="italics">Bromelia sylvestris</hi>. Linn. Flor.
                           Zeyl. <hi rend="italics">Keura</hi>. Forskal. Flora Arab. <hi rend="italics">Pandanus</hi>. Rumph. Amboin. </note>
                     </ref> or palm-nut tree had given its long prickly leaves to thatch the roofs
                     of the buildings, and these were supported by a few pillars made of the
                     bread-tree, which is thus useful in more respects than one. As a roof is
                     sufficient to shelter the natives from rains and nightly dews, and as the
                     climate of this island is perhaps one of the happiest in the world, the houses
                     seldom have any walls, but are open on all sides. We saw, however, a few
                     dwellings constructed for greater privacy, which were entirely enclosed in
                     walls of reeds, connected together by transverse pieces of wood, so as to give
                     us the idea of large bird-cages. In these there was commonly a hole left for
                     the entrance, which could be closed up with a board. Before every hut, on the
                     green turf or on dry grass, we observed groups of inhabitants lying down or
                     fitting in the eastern stile, and passing their happy hours away in
                     conversation or repose. Some of them got up at our approach, and joined the
                     croud that followed us; but great numbers, especially those of a mature age,
                     remained in their attitude, and only pronounced a kind <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi> as we passed by them. Our attendant croud seeing us gather
                     plants, were very ready to pluck and offer the same sorts to us, which they
                     found attracted our notice. Indeed a variety of wild species sprung up amidst
                     the plantations, in that beautiful disorder of nature, which is so truly
                     admirable when checked by the hand of industry, and infinitely surpasses the
                     trimness of regular gardens. Among them we found several species of grasses,
                     which though thinner than in our northern countries, yet by growing always in
                     the shade, looked fresh and formed a soft bed of verdure. The soil was by their
                     means kept sufficiently moist to give nourishment to the trees, and both were
                     in a thriving state, owing to the reciprocal assistance which they gave each
                     other. Various little birds dwelt in the shade of the bread-fruit and other
                     trees, and had a very agreeable note, though common report among Europeans has
                     denied the powers of harmony (I know not on what grounds) to the birds of warm
                     climates. The heads of the tallest coco-trees were the usual residence of a
                     kind of very small perroquets of a beautiful sapphirine blue, while another
                     sort of a greenish colour, with a few red spots, were more common among the
                     bananas, and appeared frequently tame in the houses of the natives, who seemed
                     to value them for their red feathers. A king's fisher, of a dark-green, with a
                     collar of the same hue round his white throat, a large cuckoo, and several
                     sorts of pigeons or doves, were frequently seen hopping from branch to branch,
                     and a bluish heron gravely stalked along the sea side, picking up shell-fish
                     and worms. A fine brook, rolling over a bed of pebbles, came down a narrow
                     valley, and supplied our waterers at its discharge into the sea. We followed
                     its stream for a little while till we were met by a great croud of natives at
                     the heels of three men, dressed in various pieces of their red and yellow
                     cloth, and provided with elegant turbans of the same. Each of them had a long
                     stick or wand in his hand, and one of them was accompanied by a woman, whom
                     upon enquiry we found to be his wife. We demanded what their appearance meant,
                     and were answered they were the Te-apoo-nee; but when they observed we did not
                     understand enough of their language to comprehend this term, they added that
                     they were Tata-no-t'Eatooa, men belonging to the divinity, and to the Marai, or
                     burying-place; I suppose we might call them priests. We stopped with them some
                     time, but as we did not see that any religious, or other ceremony was
                     performed, we returned to the beach. About noon captain Cook re-imbarked with
                     us, and with the two sons of O-Poe mentioned page 269, without having seen
                     Aheatua, who for reasons unknown to us, still refused to admit us to his
                     presence.</p>

                  <p n="295">The two young fellows sat down to dinner with us, and partook of the
                     vegetables, but did not touch our salt provisions. After dinner, one of them
                     took an opportunity of stealing a knife and a pewter spoon, not contented with
                     a number of presents which he had received from the captain, without having
                     made any return on his part, and which ought to have prevented him from
                     infringing the laws of hospitality. The theft being discovered, he was kicked
                     from the deck, jumped overboard, and swam to the next canoe, where he seated
                     himself, perhaps in defiance of our power. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>
                     fired a musket over his head, upon which he took to the water again, and
                     overset the canoe. A second musket was levelled at him, but he dived when he
                     saw the flash, and did the same when the <hi rend="italics">third</hi> was
                     discharged. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> now manned his boat, and went to
                     take the canoe, under which the man took shelter; but he soon abandoned it, and
                     swam to a double canoe near the first, which was accordingly pursued. This
                     canoe however got ashore through the surf, and the natives on the beach took up
                     stones, which they levelled at our boat's crew, who thought it adviseable to
                     retreat. However, a four pounder directed towards the shore, frightened the
                     inhabitants sufficiently, so that our people could seize large double canoes,
                     and bring them along-side of the ship.</p>

                  <p n="296">We left the ship after this disturbance, in order to take an
                     afternoon's walk ashore near the watering-place, and to restore the confidence
                     of the people, who had entirely forsaken us on account of our open hostilities.
                     We pursued a different path from that which we had taken in the morning, and
                     found great quantities of bananas, yams, eddies, &amp;c. planted round every
                     cottage, inhabited by friendly good-natured people, who seemed however a little
                     more shy or reserved than usual, on account of what had happened. At last we
                     arrived at a large house, neatly constructed of reeds, which we were told
                     belonged to Aheatua, who was in another district at present. Here we saw a hog,
                     and a couple of fowls, the first which the natives exposed to our sight, having
                     hitherto been very careful to conceal them, and always refusing to part with
                     them, under the pretext that they were the property of the aree or king. They
                     made use of the same excuse at present, though we offered a hatchet, which in
                     their eyes was the most valuable merchandise we had. After a short stay, we
                     returned the same way we came, and brought a small collection of new plants on
                     board. About sun-set a boat was sent off, out of the harbour. to bury in the
                     sea one <persName>Isaac Taylor</persName>, a marine, who died this morning of a
                     complication of disorders. Ever since we had left
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, this man had been feverish, consumptive, and
                     asthmatic; his complaints always kept increasing, and at last turned to a
                     dropsy, which carried him off. All our people on board were now well, except
                     one, whose remarkable scorbutic habit of body always laid him up as soon as we
                     came out to sea, where prophylactics and wort could but just keep him alive.
                     However this man, as well as the Adventure's crew, who were much affected with
                     the scurvy when they came in here, recovered amazingly by walking on shore, and
                     eating quantities of fresh fruit.</p>

                  <p n="297">
                     <date>[Thursday 19.]</date>Early the next morning some of the natives came off
                     to us in a small canoe, and begged for the restitution of those larger ones
                     which had been taken from them on the day before. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName>, who perceived the trade to have slackened in consequence of
                     that seizure, none of the inhabitants coming to the ship, and few to the
                     watering-place, returned the canoes, as the best means to reconcile us to the
                     confidence of the natives; and though the effects of his indulgence were not
                     instantaneous, yet in a day or two our trade was perfectly re-established.</p>

                  <p n="298">After this peaceful prelude we went on shore, in pursuit of botanical
                     discoveries. A smart shower of rain which had fallen over night, had cooled the
                     air considerably, and made our walk extremely pleasant, before the sun could
                     become troublesome. The whole country had profited by this rain, for every
                     plant and tree seemed revived by it, and the groves exhaled a sweet refreshing
                     smell. Whether it was owing to the early hour of our excursion, or to the
                     beauty of the morning, our ear was saluted by the song of many small birds,
                     which enlivened this delightful country. We had not walked far, when we heard a
                     loud noise in the wood, which resembled the strokes of a carpenter's hammer. We
                     followed the sound, and at last came to a small shed, where five or six women
                     were sitting on both sides of a long square piece of timber, and beat the
                     fibrous bark of the mulberry-tree here, in order to manufacture it into cloth.
                     The instrument they used for this purpose was a square wooden club, with
                     longitudinal and parallel furrows, which run smaller and closer together on the
                     different sides<ref target="#edn70">
                        <note xml:id="edn70" anchored="true"> See
                              <persName>Dr.Hawkesworth's</persName> compilation, vol. II. p. 212,
                           and plate No. 9. </note>
                     </ref>. They ceased a little while to give us time to examine the bark, the
                     mallet, and the timber on which they performed their operations. They also
                     shewed us a kind of glutinous water in a coco-nut shell, which was made use of
                     from time to time, to make the pieces of bark cohere together. This glue,
                     which, as we understood, was made of the <hi rend="italics">hibiscus
                        esculentus</hi>, is indispensibly necessary in the manufacture of those
                     immense pieces of cloth, sometimes two or three yards wide, and fifty yards
                     long, which are composed of little bits of bark, taken from trees never so
                     thick as the wrist. We carefully examined their plantations of mulberry-trees,
                     but never found a single old one among them; as soon as they are of two years
                     growth they are cut down, and new ones spring up from the root, for fortunately
                     this tree is one of the most prolific in nature, and if suffered to grow till
                     it flowered and could bear fruits, might perhaps totally over-run the country.
                     The bark must always be taken from young trees; and these are carefully drawn
                     into long stems, without any branches, except just at the top, so that the bark
                     is as entire as possible. The method of preparing it before it comes under the
                     mallet, we were not yet acquainted with at this time. The women employed in
                     this manner, were dressed in old and dirty rags of their cloth, and had very
                     hard and callous hands. We proceeded a little farther up in a narrow valley,
                     where a well-looking man invited us to sit down in the shade before his house.
                     There was a little area paved with broadish stones, on which he spread banana
                     leaves for us, and brought out a little stool made of the bread tree-wood, cut
                     out of one piece, on which he desired one of us to sit down, whom he took to be
                     the principal person. Seeing us all seated he ran into his house, and brought
                     out a quantity of bread-fruit baked, which he laid before us on fresh banana
                     leaves. To this he added a matted basket full of the vee, or Taheitee apples, a
                     fruit of the <hi rend="italics">spondias</hi> genus, which resembles the
                     anâna, or pine-apple in the taste, and entreated us to partake of these
                     refreshments. We breakfasted with a hearty appetite, sharpened by the exercise
                     we had taken, the fine air of the morning, and the excellence of the
                     provisions. We found the Taheitee method of dressing bread-fruit and other
                     victuals, with heated stones under ground, infinitely superior to our usual way
                     of boiling them; in the former all the juices remained, and were concentrated
                     by the heat; but in the latter, the fruit imbibed many watery particles, and
                     lost a great deal of its fine flavour and mealiness. To conclude this treat our
                     host brought us five fresh coco-nuts, which he opened by pulling the fibres off
                     with his teeth. The cool limpid liquor contained in them he poured into a clean
                     cup, made of a ripe coco nut-shell, and offered that to each of us in our
                     turns. The people in this country had on all occasions been good-natured and
                     friendly, and for beads sometimes sold us coco-nuts and fruit, if we called for
                     them; but we had not yet seen an instance of hospitality exercised in so
                     complete a manner during our short stay. We therefore thought it our duty to
                     recompense our friend as much as lay in our power, and presented him with a
                     number of transparent beads and iron nails, with which he was highly satisfied
                     and contented.</p>

                  <p n="299">We continued our walk into the country from this seat of patriarchal
                     hospitality, notwithstanding the uneasiness which many of the natives
                     expressed, among the croud that followed us. When they saw us persist in our
                     expedition, the greatest part of them dispersed to their different habitations,
                     and only a few of them attended us, who made it their business to act as our
                     guides. We came to the foot of the first hills, where we left the huts and
                     plantations of the natives behind us, and ascended on a beaten path, passing
                     through an uncultivated shrubbery mixed with several tall timber-trees. Here we
                     searched the most intricate parts, and found several plants and birds hitherto
                     unknown to natural historians. With these little acquisitions we returned
                     towards the sea, at which our friends the natives expressed their satisfaction.
                     We found a vast concourse of inhabitants on the beach at our trading place, and
                     saw that our people had brought a great quantity of large eddies and other
                     roots, but few bread-fruits, which were now very scarce, only a few trees
                     bearing them so late in the season, while most of the others were already
                     shooting forth the embryo of a new crop. The excessive heat of the sun, now
                     tempted us to bath in a branch of the adjacent river, which formed a deep pond
                     of some extent; and being refreshed with this bath we returned on board to
                     dinner. In the afternoon we had heavy rains, attended with wind, during which
                     the Adventure drove from her moorings, but was brought up again by a timely
                     manœvre. This bad weather confined us on board, where we arranged the plants
                     and animals which we had hitherto collected, and made drawings of such as were
                     not known before. Our three days excursions had supplied us only with a small
                     number of species, which in an island so flourishing as
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, gave a convincing proof of its high
                     cultivation; for a few individual plants occupied that space, which in a
                     country entirely left to itself, would have teemed with several hundred
                     different kinds in wild disorder. The small size of the island, together with
                     its vast distance from either the eastern or western continent, did not admit
                     of a great variety of animals. We saw no other species of quadrupeds than hogs,
                     and dogs which were domestic, and incredible numbers of rats, which the natives
                     suffered to run about at pleasure, without ever trying to destroy them. We
                     found however a tolerable number of birds, and when the natives gave themselves
                     the trouble to fish, we commonly purchased a considerable variety of species,
                     as this class of creatures can easily roam from one part of the ocean to the
                     other, and particularly in the torrid zone, where certain sorts are general all
                     round the world.</p>

                  <p n="300">If the scarcity of spontaneous plants was unfavourable to the botanist,
                     still it had the most salutary effects with regard to the whole company on
                     board of both our vessels, since their place was occupied by great quantities
                     of wholesome vegetables. We daily bought abundance of yams, eddies, and
                     Taheitee apples; together with some bananas and bread-fruit, which, on account
                     of the season, were grown very scarce. The wholesome regimen which we had by
                     this means been able to keep, had visibly, and I might almost say miraculously,
                     operated to restore to their health, all those who were ill of the scurvy at
                     our arrival; and the only inconvenience we felt from it was a kind of flux,
                     owing to the sudden change of diet, with which a few of the people were
                     afflicted. Not content with this fortunate supply, we could not help casting
                     longing eyes towards the hogs which we saw in great numbers on all our
                     excursions into the country, though the natives were always careful to hide
                     them in low styes, covered over with boards, forming a kind of platform, on
                     which they sat or lay down. We tried all possible means to engage the people to
                     sell some of them to us, and offered hatchets, shirts, and other goods of value
                     to the Taheitians, but still without success, their constant answer being, that
                     these animals were the king's (<hi rend="italics">aree</hi>'s) property.
                     Instead of acquiescing in this refusal, and acknowledging the kind disposition
                     of the natives, who furnished us at least with the means of recovering our
                     strength, and restoring our sick, a proposal was made to the captains, by some
                     persons in the ships, to sweep away by force a sufficient number of hogs for
                     our use, and afterwards to return such a quantity of our goods in exchange to
                     the natives, as we should think adequate to the spoil we had taken. This
                     proposal, which nothing but the most tyrannical principles, and the meanest
                     selfishness could have dictated, was received with the contempt and indignation
                     which it justly deserved.</p>

                  <p n="301">
                     <date>[Friday 20.]</date>Our acquisitions in natural history being hitherto so
                     inconsiderable, we had leisure every day to ramble in the country in search of
                     others, as well as to pick up various circumstances which might serve to throw
                     a light on the character, manners, and present state of the inhabitants.</p>

                  <p n="302">On the 20th towards noon, I directed my walk, in company with several
                     officers, to the eastern point of the harbour. We soon came to a rivulet, which
                     was wide and deep enough to admit a canoe upon it, by means of which we ferried
                     over to the opposite shore, where we perceived a house of some extent, among
                     the bushes. Before it we saw a quantity of the finer sorts of Taheitee cloth
                     spread out on the grass, which the natives told us, had been washed in the
                     river; and close to the house, suspended on a pole, we observed a target of a
                     semicircular form, made of wicker-work, and plaited strings (of the coco-nut
                     fibres), covered with the glossy bluish-green feathers of a kind of pigeon, and
                     ornamented with many shark's teeth, displayed in three co-centric semicircles;
                     I enquired whether it was to be purchased, but was answered in the negative,
                     and concluded that it was only exposed to the air, in the same manner as we are
                     used to do from time to time, with things which we preserve in close boxes. A
                     middle-aged man, who lay stretched at his ease in the hut, invited us to sit
                     down by him, and curiously examined my dress; he had long nails on his fingers,
                     upon which he valued himself not a little, and which I found were a mark of
                     distinction, since only such persons, as had no occasion to work, could suffer
                     them to grow to that length. The Chinese have the same custom, and pride
                     themselves as much in it; but whether the Taheitians derive it from them, or
                     whether chance has led them both to the same idea, without any communication
                     with each other, is possibly beyond the art of Needham and Des Guignes to
                     determine. In different corners of the hut we saw some women and some men,
                     separately eating their dinner of bread-fruit and bananas, and both parties, as
                     we approached them, desired us to partake of their provisions. The singular
                     custom, which forces the sexes to shun each others company at their meals, is
                     already mentioned by former voyagers, who have been equally unsuccessful with
                     ourselves in discovering its cause.</p>

                  <p n="303">We left this hut, and strolled through an odoriferous shrubbery to
                     another, where we found <persName>O-Taï</persName>, his wife, and children, and
                     his sisters <persName>Maroya</persName> and <persName>Maroraï</persName>. The
                     officer who had lost his bed-sheets was with us, but thought it to no purpose
                     to enquire for them, and rather tried to ingratiate himself with the fair one.
                     Beads, nails, and various trifles were presented to her, which she readily
                     accepted, but remained inexorable to the passionate sollicitations of her
                     lover. As she had in all probability obtained the possession of the sheets,
                     which she coveted, and for which alone she could have submitted to
                     prostitution, it seems nothing could afterwards tempt her to admit the
                     transient embraces of a stranger. This is the most likely construction we could
                     put upon her conduct, and it became more probable to us, when we considered,
                     that she belonged to a family of some note, and that, during <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> long stay on the island in the Endeavour, there had been
                     few, if any instances, that women among the better sort of people had demeaned
                     themselves so far. After a short stay with them, I returned to our trading
                     place, but finding all our boats gone off, ventured to embark in a single
                     canoe, without an outrigger, and was safely brought on board the Resolution for
                     a single bead, which was all I had left after this excursion.</p>

                  <p n="304">
                     <date>[Saturday 21.]</date>At day-break the next morning we went ashore again,
                     on another walk to the eastward. We observed the plain to widen, as we advanced
                     beyond the east point of <placeName>Aitepèha harbour</placeName>, and of course
                     growing richer in bread-fruit and coco-nut trees, bananas, and other vegetable
                     productions, on most of which we saw the buds of a future crop. The houses of
                     the natives were likewise found to be more numerous, and many seemed to us
                     neater and newer than those near our anchoring-place. In one of them, which was
                     of the closer sort, walled in with reeds, we saw a great many bundles of cloth,
                     and cases for targets suspended from the roof, all which, as well as the house
                     itself, we were informed belonged to <persName>Aheatua</persName>. We walked
                     about two miles in the most delightful groves or plantations of fruit-trees,
                     where the natives were just returning to their various employments. Among them
                     we easily noticed the manufacturers of cloth, by the hollow sound of the
                     mallet. However, it must not be supposed, that the necessities of these people
                     urgently required their constant application to work; for our appearance soon
                     gathered a croud of them about us, who followed us all day as far as we went,
                     and sometimes even neglected their meals on our account. It was not without
                     some interested motives, that they attended upon us. Their general behaviour
                     towards us was good-natured, friendly, and I may say officious; but they
                     watched every opportunity of conveying away some trifles with amazing
                     dexterity, and many among them, whenever we returned the kind looks they gave
                     us, or smiled upon them, thought that a proper time to take advantage of our
                     good disposition, and immediately with a begging tone said, <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi>, <hi rend="italics">pòë</hi>, "friend, a bead!" which,
                     whether we complied with or refused, did not alter their good temper. When
                     these petitions became too frequent, we used to mock them, by repeating their
                     words in the same tone, which always produced a general peal of good-humoured
                     laughter amongst them. Their conversation was commonly loud, and it seemed that
                     our appearance was their principal topick; every new-comer was immediately made
                     acquainted by the others with our names, which they reduced to a few vowels and
                     softer consonants, and was entertained with a repetition of what we had said or
                     done that morning. His first request was generally to hear a musket fired off,
                     which we complied with on condition that he should shew us a bird as a mark.
                     However, we were frequently at a loss how to behave, when he pointed out a bird
                     at four or five hundreds yards distance, as they had no idea that the effects
                     of our fire-arms were limited to a certain space. As it was not prudent to let
                     them into this mystery, we always pretended that we could not see the bird,
                     till we came near enough to shoot it. The first explosion frightened them
                     considerably, and on some produced such violent consternation that they dropped
                     down on the ground, or ran back about twenty yards from us, where they remained
                     till we quieted their fears by professions of friendship, or till their more
                     courageous brethren had picked up the bird which we had killed. But they soon
                     became more familiar, and though they always expressed some sudden emotion, yet
                     they conquered by degrees the appearance of fear.</p>

                  <p n="305">Notwithstanding the friendly reception which we met with on all sides,
                     the natives were very anxious to keep their hogs out of sight, and whenever we
                     enquired for them seemed uneasy, and either told us they had none, or assured
                     us they belonged to <persName>Aheatua</persName> their king. As we perceived
                     their reluctance to part with these animals, we thought it best to take no
                     farther notice of them, and though we saw great numbers of them confined in
                     pigstyes almost in every hut, we pretended not to know that there were any, or
                     not to care for them; this proceeding we always found had the good effect of
                     encreasing the confidence of the people towards us.</p>

                  <p n="306">Having advanced a mile or two, we sat down on a few large stones, which
                     formed a kind of paved area before one of the cottages, and desired the
                     inhabitants to bring us some bread-fruit and coco-nuts, in exchange for beads.
                     They very readily supplied us with a quantity of each, on which we breakfasted.
                     The croud who followed us, sat down at a distance from us, at our desire, in
                     order that they might have no opportunity of snatching up any of our arms, or
                     other apparatus, which we were obliged to lay out of our hands, while we made
                     our meal. To add to our good cheer, we were presented with a coco-nut shell
                     full of a kind of diminutive fresh fish, which the natives are used to eat raw,
                     without any other sauce than salt water. We tasted them, and found them far
                     from disagreeable; however, as we were not used to eat them without being
                     dressed, we distributed them, with the remains of the fruit, to our favourites
                     among the croud.</p>

                  <p n="307">Thus refreshed, we continued our walk, but turned towards the hills,
                     notwithstanding the importunities of the natives, who urged us to continue on
                     the plain, which we easily perceived arose merely from their dislike to
                     fatigue. We were not to be diverted from our purpose; but leaving behind us
                     almost the whole croud, we entered, with a few guides, a chasm between two
                     hills. There we found several wild plants which were new to us, and saw a
                     number of little swallows flying over a fine brook, which rolled impetuously
                     along. We walked up along its banks to a perpendicular rock, fringed with
                     various tufted shrubberies, from whence it fell in a crystalline column, and
                     was collected at the bottom into a smooth limpid pond, surrounded with many
                     species of odoriferous flowers. This spot, where we had a prospect of the plain
                     below us, and of the sea beyond it, was one of the most beautiful I had ever
                     seen, and could not fail of bringing to remembrance the most fanciful
                     descriptions of poets, which it eclipsed in beauty. In the shade of trees,
                     whose branches hung over the water, we enjoyed a pleasant gale, which softened
                     the heat of the day, and amidst the solemn uniform noise of the waterfall,
                     which was but seldom interrupted by the whistling of birds, we sat down to
                     describe our new acquisitions before they withered. Our Taheitian companions
                     seeing us employed, likewise rested among the bushes, viewing us attentively
                     and in profound silence. We could have been well pleased to have passed the
                     whole day in this retirement; however, after finishing our notes, and feasting
                     our eyes once more with the romantick scenery, we returned to the plain. Here
                     we observed a great croud of the natives coming towards us, and at their near
                     approach perceived two of our ship-mates, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> and
                        <persName>Mr. Grindall</persName>, whom they surrounded and attended on
                     their walk. We soon joined them, and resolved to continue our excursion
                     together. A youth, of a very promising countenance, who had distinguished
                     himself by shewing a particular attachment for these gentlemen, was entrusted
                     with <persName>Mr. Hodges's</persName> port-folio, where he preserved the
                     sketches and designs, which he had frequent opportunities of making on his
                     walk. No favour, or mark of affection could I believe have given this youth so
                     much real pleasure, as the confidence they had placed in him, upon which he
                     seemed to value himself among his countrymen. Perhaps this circumstance, joined
                     to the peaceable appearance of our gentlemen, who walked without arms of any
                     kind, had a general effect upon all the people that surrounded us, as their
                     familiarity and affection seemed much encreased. We entered a spacious hut
                     together, where we saw a large family assembled. An old man, with a placid
                     countenance, lay on a clean mat, and rested his head on a little stool, which
                     served as a pillow. His head, which was truly venerable, was well furnished
                     with fine locks of a silvery grey, and a thick beard as white as snow descended
                     to his breast. His eyes were lively, and health sat on his full cheeks. His
                     wrinkles, which characterize age with us, were few and not deep; for cares,
                     trouble, and disappointment, which untimely furrow our brows, cannot be
                     supposed to exist in this happy nation. Several little ones, whom we took to be
                     his grand-children, and who, according to the custom of the country, were
                     perfectly naked, played with their aged ancestor, while his actions and looks
                     convinced us, that the simple way of living to which he had been used, had not
                     yet blunted his senses. Several well-made men and artless nymphs, in whom youth
                     supplied the want of beauty, surrounded the old man, and as we came in seemed
                     to be in conversation after a frugal meal. They desired us to sit down on the
                     mats among them, and we did not give them time to repeat their invitation.
                     Their curiosity, which had perhaps never before been gratified with the sight
                     of strangers, now prompted them to examine our dress and our arms, without
                     bestowing their attention longer than a moment on any single object. They
                     admired our colour, pressed our hands, seemed to wonder that we had no
                     punctures on them, nor long nails on our fingers, and eagerly enquired for our
                     names, which when known, they were happy to repeat. These names, as they
                     pronounced them, were not so like the originals that an etymologist could
                     easily have deduced them, but in return they were more harmonious, and easily
                     pronounced. <persName>Forster</persName> was changed in <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Matara</hi>
                     </persName>, <persName>Hodges</persName> into <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Oreo</hi>
                     </persName>, <persName>Grindall</persName> into <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Terino</hi>
                     </persName>, <persName>Sparrman</persName> into <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Pamanee</hi>
                     </persName>, and <persName>George</persName> into <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Teoree</hi>
                     </persName>. The hospitality which we had found under every roof, was not
                     wanting here, and we were offered some coco-nuts and <hi rend="italics">e-vees</hi> to quench our thirst after the last walk. One of the young
                     men had a flute made of a bamboo, which had but three holes; he blew it with
                     his nostrils<ref target="#edn71">
                        <note xml:id="edn71" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>.
                        </note>
                     </ref>, whilst another accompanied him with the voice. The whole music, both
                     vocal and instrumental, consisted of three or four notes, which were between
                     half and quarter notes, being neither whole tones nor semi-tones. The effect of
                     these notes, without variety or order, was only a kind of drowsy hum, which
                     could not indeed hurt the ear by its discordant sounds, but made no pleasing
                     impression on our minds. It is surprising that the taste for music should be so
                     general all over the world, when the ideas of harmony among different nations
                     are so distinct! Charmed with the picture of real happiness, which was thus
                     exhibited before us, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> filled his port-folio with
                     several sketches, which will convey to future times the beauties of a scene, of
                     which words give but a faint idea. While he was drawing, all the natives looked
                     on with great attention, and were highly pleased to find out the resemblance
                     between his performances and different persons among them. Our acquaintance
                     with their language, which we were at great pains to improve, was as yet very
                     imperfect, and deprived us of the pleasure which we might have received from a
                     conversation with these good people. A few separate words, and an interlude of
                     dumb mimickry, was all that we had to supply the place of a coherent speech.
                     However, even this was sufficient to amuse the natives, and our docility and
                     endeavours to please seemed to be at least as agreeable to them, as their
                     social temper and willingness to give instruction appeared to us. The old man,
                     without changing his attitude, and continuing to recline his head on the stool,
                     asked us several little questions, such as the captain's name, the name of the
                     country we came from, how long we should stay, whether we had our wives on
                     board, &amp;c. It seemed that he was already apprised of all these things by
                     common report, but wished to have them confirmed from our own mouths. We
                     satisfied his curiosity as well as we could on these points, and after
                     distributing little presents of beads, medals, and other trifles to his family,
                     we set forwards once more on our excursion. The many pauses which we made at
                     the hospitable huts of the natives, always refreshed us so much, that we felt
                     no manner of inconvenience, and could with ease have walked round the whole
                     island in the same manner. The plain at the foot of the mountains offered no
                     impediment to our progress; on the contrary, its paths were well beaten, and
                     its whole surface perfectly level, and covered in many places with a fine
                     growth of grasses. Not a single noxious animal appeared to deter us, and not
                     even a gnat or musketoe hummed unpleasantly about us, or made us apprehensive
                     of its bite. The bread-fruit groves, with their abundant foliage, intercepted
                     the rays of the meridian sun, whose action was greatly mitigated by a fresh
                     sea-breeze. The inhabitants however, who were used to pass the middle of the
                     day in repose, dropt off one by one in the bushes, so that only a few remained
                     with us. After we had walked about two miles farther to the south eastward, we
                     came to the sea-shore at a place where it formed a little inlet. Here,
                     surrounded on all sides with plantations, we met with a glade or lawn, in the
                     midst of which we saw a maraï (burying-place) built up of three ranges of
                     stones, like steps, each about three feet and a half in height, and covered
                     with grasses, ferns, and small shrubs. Towards the country, at some distance
                     from the building, there was an oblong enclosure round it made of stone, about
                     three feet high, within which two or three solitary coco-palms and some young
                     casuarinas, with their weeping branches, gave an air of solemnity and pleasing
                     melancholy to the scene. At a little distance from the maraï, surrounded by a
                     thick shrubbery, we saw an inconsiderable hut or shed, (<hi rend="italics">tupapow</hi>), where, on a kind of stage about breast high, a corpse was
                     placed, covered with a white piece of cloth, which hung down in various folds.
                     Young coco-trees and bananas were springing up, and dragon-trees blossoming
                     around it. Near this we saw another hut, where a quantity of eatables lay for
                     the divinity, (<hi rend="italics">eatua</hi>), and a pole was stuck in the
                     ground, on which we saw a dead bird wrapped in a piece of a mat. In this last
                     hut, which stood on a small eminence, we observed a woman sitting in a pensive
                     attitude, who got up at our approach, and would not suffer us to come near her.
                     We offered her a small present, but she refused to touch it. We understood from
                     the natives who were with us, that she belonged to the maraï, and that the dead
                     corse was also a woman's, whose obsequies the first perhaps was performing.</p>

                  <p n="308">After <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> had made several drawings we
                     returned from this place, which had really something grand in its appearance,
                     and seemed calculated to favour religious meditation. In our return we kept
                     along the sea-shore, till we came to a spacious house, very pleasantly situated
                     amidst a grove of low coco-palms, loaded with fruit. Two or three fried little
                     fishes, which one of the natives sold us for a few beads, were here shared
                     among us, to stay our appetite, grown very keen again since our breakfast.
                     Several of our company likewise bathed in the sea, as a farther refreshment in
                     this warm climate, and having afterwards bought some pieces of cloth, (<hi rend="italics">ahow</hi>'s) of the country fabrick, dressed in them, after
                     the <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> fashion, to the infinite pleasure of the
                     natives. Our walk continued along the shore beyond another marai, much like the
                     first, to a neat house, where a very fat man, who seemed to be a chief of the
                     district, was lolling on his wooden pillow. Before him two servants were
                     preparing his desert, by beating up with water some bread-fruit and bananas, in
                     a large wooden bowl, and mixing with it a quantity of the fermented sour paste
                     of bread-fruit, (called <hi rend="italics">maheî</hi>). The consistence of
                     this mixture was such, that it could properly be called a drink, and the
                     instrument with which they made it, was a pestle of a black polished stone,
                     which appeared to be a kind of basaltes<ref target="#edn72">
                        <note xml:id="edn72" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 202. </note>
                     </ref>. While this was doing, a woman who sat down near him, crammed down his
                     throat by handfuls the remains of a large baked fish, and several bread-fruits,
                     which he swallowed with a voracious appetite. His countenance was the picture
                     of phlegmatic insensibility, and seemed to witness that all his thoughts
                     centred in the care of his paunch. He scarce deigned to look at us, and a few
                     monosyllables which he uttered, were only directed to remind his feeders of
                     their duty, when we attracted their attention. The great degree of satisfaction
                     which we had enjoyed on our different walks in this island, and particularly
                     the pleasure of this day's excursion, was diminished by the appearance and
                     behaviour of the chief, and the reflections which naturally arose from thence.
                     We had flattered ourselves with the pleasing fancy of having found at least one
                     little spot of the world, where a whole nation, without being lawless
                     barbarians, aimed at a certain frugal equality in their way of living, and
                     whose hours of enjoyment were justly proportioned to those of labour and rest.
                     Our disappointment was therefore very great, when we saw a luxurious individual
                     spending his life in the most sluggish inactivity, and without one benefit to
                     society, like the privileged parasites of more civilized climates, fattening on
                     the superfluous produce of the soil, of which he robbed the labouring
                     multitude. His indolence, in some degree, resembled that which is frequent in
                     India and the adjacent kingdoms of the East, and deserved every mark of
                     indignation which <persName>Sir John Mandeville</persName> expressed in his
                     Asiatic travels. That worthy knight, who, top-full of chivalry, and the
                     valourous spirit of his time, devoted his life to constant activity, was highly
                     incensed at the sight of a monster of laziness, who passed his days " withouten
                     doynge of ony dedes of armes" , and lived " evermore thus in ese, as a swyn
                     that is fedde in sty, for to ben made fatte" <ref target="#edn73">
                        <note xml:id="edn73" anchored="true"> For the satisfaction of my readers I
                           shall here insert the account which the knight gives of the voluptuary
                           who attracted his censure, especially as several little circumstances
                           serve to make the similarity between him and the Taheitian chief more
                           perfect. - " From that lond, in returnynge be ten jorneys thorge out the
                           lond of the grete <hi rend="italics">Chane</hi>, is another gode yle
                           and a great kyngdom, where the kyng is fulle riche and myghty. And
                           amonges the riche men of his contree is a passynge riche man, that is no
                           prynce, ne duke, ne erl; but he hath mo that holden of him londes and
                           other lordchipes: for he is more riche. For he hathe every zeer of
                           annulle rente 300000 hors charged with corn of dyverse greynes and ryzs;
                           and so he ledethe a fulle noble lif and a delycate, after the custom of
                           the contree. For he hathe every day 50 fair damyseles, alle maydenes,
                           that serven him evere more at his mete, and for to lye by him o night,
                           and for to do with hem that is to his plesance. And when he is at the
                           table, thei bryngen him hys mete, at every tyme 5 and 5 togedre. And in
                           bryngynge hire servyce, thei syngen a song. And after that, thei kutten
                           his mete, and putten it in his mouthe, for he touchethe no thing, ne
                           handlethe nought, but holdethe everemore his hondes before him upon the
                           table. For he hathe so longe nayles, that he may take nothing, ne handle
                           no thing, for the noblesse of that contree is to have longe nayles, and
                           to make hem growen alle ways to ben as longe as men may. - And alle weys
                           theise damyseles, that I spak of beforn, syngen all the tyme that this
                           riche man etethe: and whan that he etethe no more of his first cours,
                           thanne other 5 and 5 of faire damyseles bryngen him his seconde cours
                           alle weys syngynge as thei dide beforn. And so thei don contynuelly every
                           day to the ende of his mete. And in this manere he ledethe his lif, and
                           so did thei beforn him that weren his auncestres, and so schulle thei
                           that comen aftre him." See the <hi rend="italics">Voyages and Travaylls
                              of <persName>Sir John Maundevile</persName>, knight</hi>, pag. 376.
                        </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="309">On leaving this Taheitian drone we separated, and I accompanied
                        <persName>Mess. Hodges</persName> and <persName>Grindall</persName>, whose
                     good-natured friend, the carrier of the port-folio, had earnestly invited us to
                     his habitation. We arrived here towards five in the evening, and found it a
                     small but cleanly cottage, before which a great abundance of fresh leaves were
                     spread on a stony place, and a prodigious quantity of the best coco-nuts and
                     well-roasted bread-fruit were laid out in fine order. He immediately ran to two
                     elderly persons, who were busy in frightening the rats from this plentiful
                     store of provisions, and introduced them to us as his parents. They expressed
                     great joy on seeing the friends of their son, and entreated us to sit down to
                     the meal which lay before us. We were at first struck with astonishment on
                     finding it entirely prepared at our arrival, but we soon recollected that our
                     friend had sent off one of his comrades several hours beforehand, very probably
                     with directions to provide for our entertainment. As this was the first regular
                     meal to which we sat down this day, it will easily be conceived that we fell to
                     with a good appetite, and gave infinite satisfaction to the good-natured old
                     people and the generous-minded youth, who all seemed to think themselves happy
                     in the honour which we did to their excellent cheer. With such a venerable pair
                     ministring to us, if I may be allowed to indulge in a poetical idea, we ran
                     some risk of forgetting that we were men, and might have believed ourselves
                     feasted by the hospitable Baucis and Philemon, if our inability to reward them
                     had not reminded us of mortality. However, all the beads and nails which we
                     could muster amongst us were offered to them, rather as a mark that we
                     preserved a grateful sense of their good heart, than as any retribution. The
                     youth went on with us to the beach opposite to our vessels, and brought on
                     board a great quantity of provisions, which we had left unconsumed at our
                     dinner. He was there presented with a hatchet, a shirt, and various articles of
                     less value by his friends, and returned that very evening on shore to his
                     parents, being probably enriched beyond his warmest expectation.</p>

                  <p n="310">The usual trade had been carried on about the ships, and on the beach
                     opposite to them, during our absence, without any material incident, except
                        <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> meeting with
                     <persName>Tuahow</persName>, the same native who had accompanied him a
                     considerable way when he made the circuit of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> in
                     a boat, in the course of his first voyage<ref target="#edn74">
                        <note xml:id="edn74" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 160, 162, &amp;c. </note>
                     </ref>. We found him and two of his countrymen on board at our return, they
                     having resolved to take up their night's lodging with us, which, though usual
                     at <placeName>Matavaï Bay</placeName> during the Endeavour's voyage, none had
                     hitherto ventured upon in this place. Tuahow being already familiarized with
                     our way of living, and acquainted with the various objects which commonly
                     struck his countrymen with wonder, eagerly entered into discourse with us, as
                     he found us attentive to his questions. He enquired after <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Tabane</hi>
                     </persName>, <persName>Mr. Banks</persName>; <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Tolano</hi>
                     </persName>, <persName>Dr. Solander</persName>; <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Tupaya</hi>
                     </persName>, <persName>(Tupia)</persName> and several persons in the Endeavour
                     whose names he recollected. He rejoiced to hear that <persName>Mr.
                        Banks</persName> and <persName>Dr. Solander</persName> were well, and having
                     often renewed his question, always received the same answer to it; upon which
                     he asked whether they would not come back to <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>,
                     accompanying it with a look which strongly expressed the wish of seeing them
                     again. When he heard of <persName>Tupaya's</persName> death, he was desirous of
                     being informed whether it had been violent or natural, and was well pleased to
                     hear from such circumstances as we could by broken words and signs communicate
                     to him, that sickness had put a period to his life. In return, we questioned
                     him concerning the death of <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Tootahàh</hi>
                     </persName>, who had appeared as the acting chief of the island in
                        <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> former voyage. We plainly understood
                     that a great naval fight had happened between that chief and old <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Aheatua</hi>
                        <ref target="#edn75">
                           <note xml:id="edn75" anchored="true"> Called <hi rend="italics">Waheatua</hi> in <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p.
                              157, 158. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, the father of the present king of <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>
                     in which neither party had gained a decisive advantage; but that
                        <persName>Tootahàh</persName> afterwards marching his army across the
                     isthmus, which separates the two peninsulas, had been defeated in an obstinate
                     engagement, in which himself, <persName>Tuboraï-Tamaide</persName>, and many
                     other persons of distinction on his side were slain. A peace was soon after
                     concluded with <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">O-Too</hi>
                     </persName> the king of <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName><ref target="#edn76">
                           <note xml:id="edn76" anchored="true"> Called <hi rend="italics">Outou</hi> in <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 154.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     , who, after <persName>Tootahàh's</persName> decease, had assumed
                     the power of the sovereignty, of which before he had only enjoyed the title.
                     Old <persName>Aheatua</persName>, according to <persName>Tuahow's</persName>
                     account, died but a few months after this peace, and his son, of the same name,
                     who, according to the custom of this country, had already, during his father's
                     life-time, borne the title of <hi rend="italics">te-aree</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn77">
                        <note xml:id="edn77" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 158, 159, 160, 175; where this <hi rend="italics">title</hi> is constantly expressed as his <hi rend="italics">name</hi>. </note>
                     </ref> (the king), and received the honours annexed to that dignity, now
                     likewise succeeded to its more essential part, the management of affairs.</p>

                  <p n="311">This subject being exhausted, we took out the map of
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, (engraved for <persName>captain
                        Cooke's</persName> former voyage) and laid it before
                        <persName>Tuahow</persName>, without telling him what it was. He was however
                     too good a pilot, not to find it out presently; and overjoyed to see a
                     representation of his own country, immediately with his finger pointed out the
                     situation of all the whennuas or districts upon it, naming them at the same
                     time in their order, as we saw them written on the chart. When he came to
                        <placeName>O-Whai-urua</placeName> the next district with a harbour, to the
                     south of our present anchoring-place, he pulled us by the arm to look on
                     attentively, and related that there had been a ship (paheï) which he called
                     paheï no Peppe, and which had lain there five days; that the people in her had
                     received ten hogs from the natives, and that one of the crew ran away from the
                     ship, and now lived upon the island. From this account we concluded that the
                     Spaniards had sent another vessel to examine <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>,
                     probably first discovered by their navigators, and which of late years had been
                     so frequently visited by the English, as might justly rouse their attention, on
                     account of the proximity of their own extensive possessions in <placeName>South
                        America</placeName>. Strange as it may seem, the name of Peppe confirmed us
                     in our conjectures, notwithstanding its vast difference from España, from
                     whence we supposed it originated; because we were by this time well acquainted
                     with the custom of mutilating all foreign names, which the Taheitians possess,
                     even in a higher degree than the French and English. We put several questions
                     relative to this ship to Tuahow, but could never obtain any farther
                     intelligence from him, except that the man who had left it, always accompanied
                     Aheatua, and had given him the advice not to furnish us with any hogs. Whatever
                     selfinterested or bigoted motives that man may have had to give Aheatua such an
                     advice, yet it seems to have been in reality the most friendly and valuable
                     which he could have offered to his protector. The way to keep the riches of his
                     subjects, among which are their hogs in the country, and to prevent new wants
                     from prevailing among a happy people, was to get rid of us as soon as he could,
                     by denying us the refreshments of which we stood most in need. It were indeed
                     sincerely to be wished, that the intercourse which has lately subsisted between
                     Europeans and the natives of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> islands may
                     be broken off in time, before the corruption of manners which unhappily
                     characterises civilized regions, may reach that innocent race of men, who live
                     here fortunate in their ignorance and simplicity. But it is a melancholy truth,
                     that the dictates of philanthropy do not harmonize with the political systems
                     of <placeName>Europe</placeName>!</p>

                  <p n="312">
                     <date>[Sunday 22.]</date>Several of our people having taken a walk on shore,
                     the next day returned on board with the news, that they had met with
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName>, who was at last come to this district in order
                     to give us an audience. They had been admitted into his presence without any
                     ceremony, and his majesty, in the midst of all his court, had given up one half
                     of his stool (pappa), to <persName>Mr. Smith</persName>, one of our mates, who
                     was of the party. He had at the same time graciously assured him, that he
                     wishes to speak to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and had as many hogs to
                     give him, as <hi rend="italics">he</hi> had hatchets to pay for them, which
                     was by far the most agreeable news we had heard for some time. They also
                     reported that they had seen a man resembling an European in colour and feature,
                     but that upon speaking to him, he had retired into the croud. Whether this was
                     really an European, or whether the story which Tuahow had told us the evening
                     before, had wrought upon the fancy of our men we cannot determine; so much
                     however is certain, that none of us ever saw him afterwards.</p>

                  <p n="313">
                     <date>[Monday 23.]</date>In consequence of <persName>Aheatua's</persName>
                     declaration, the captains, with several officers, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, my father, and myself, went on shore early on the 23d.
                     We proceeded about a mile along the river from which we filled our casks, being
                     conducted by <persName>Opao</persName> one of the natives, who had lodged on
                     board. A great croud coming down towards us, those who surrounded us pulled off
                     their upper garments, so as to uncover their shoulders, which is a mark of
                     respect due to the king. We presently joined the croud, in the midst of whom
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName> sat down on a large stool, cut out of solid
                     wood, which one of his people had hitherto carried. He immediately recollected
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and made room for him on his stool, while
                        <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>, and the rest of us, chose large
                     stones for our seats. An immense number of natives thronged about us on all
                     sides, and included us in a very narrow circle, increasing the heat to such a
                     degree, that the king's attendants were frequently obliged to keep them back,
                     by beating them.</p>

                  <p n="314">
                     <persName>O-Aheatua</persName>, the king of
                     <placeName>O-Taheitee-eetee</placeName>, (<placeName>Little Taheitee</placeName>)
                     which is otherwise called
                        <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>, was a youth of seventeen or eighteen years
                     of age, well-made, about five feet six inches high, and likely to grow taller.
                     His countenance was mild, but unmeaning; and rather expressed some sign of fear
                     and distrust at our first meeting, which suited ill with the ideas of majesty,
                     and yet are often the characteristics of lawless power. His colour was of the
                     fairest of his people, and his lank hair of a light-brown, turning into reddish
                     at the tips, or being what is commonly called sandy. He wore at present no
                     other dress than a white sash, (marro) round the waist to the knees, made of
                     the best kind of cloth, and his head as well as all the rest of his body was
                     uncovered. On both sides of him sat several chiefs and nobles, distinguishable
                     by their superior stature, which is the natural effect of the immense quantity
                     of food which they consume. One of them was punctured in a surprising manner,
                     which we had never seen before, large black blotches of various shapes, almost
                     covering his arms, legs, and sides. This man, whose name was
                        <persName>E-Tee</persName>, was also remarkable for his enormous corpulence,
                     and for the deference which the aree (king) paid to him, consulting him almost
                     upon every occasion. The king, during the time he sat on the stool, which was
                     his throne, preserved a grave or rather stiff deportment, scarce to be expected
                     at his years, though it seemed to be studied and assumed, only to make our
                     meeting more solemn. This may be looked upon as a kind of recommendation by
                     some men, but it is unhappily a mask of hypocrisy, which we should hardly have
                     expected at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. After the first salutation,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> presented <persName>Aheatua</persName>
                     with a piece of red baize, a bed-sheet, a broad axe, a knife, nails,
                     looking-glasses, and beads; and my father gave him similar presents, among
                     which was an aigrette or tuft of feathers fixed on a wire, and dyed of a bright
                     crimson; upon this his majesty set a particular value, and at the sight of it
                     the whole croud gave a general shout of admiration, expressed by the word <hi rend="italics">awhay</hi>! The king now enquired for <persName>Mr.
                        Banks</persName>, which only <persName>Tuahow</persName> had done before
                     him, and then asked how long we intended to stay, expressing at the same time,
                     that he wishes we might remain five months. <persName>Captain Cook's</persName>
                     answer was, that as he did not receive sufficient supplies of provisions, he
                     must sail immediately. The king confined his first request to one month, and at
                     last to five days, but <persName>captain Cook</persName> persisted in his
                     resolution; <persName>Aheatua</persName> then promised to send us hogs the next
                     day, but as this had been repeatedly said without any consequence, we took no
                     notice of it now; for even in a state so little refined as
                        <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>, we found that the real benevolence of the
                     middle class, which manifested itself towards us in hospitality and a number of
                     good and noble actions, gave us no right to trust the specious politeness of
                     the court and courtiers, who fed our hopes with empty promises.</p>

                  <p n="315">During this conference the croud, amounting at least to five hundred
                     persons, was so excessively noisy, that it was impossible at times to
                     distinguish a word; and on those occasions some of the king's attendants with a
                     Stentor's voice called out <hi rend="italics">mamoò</hi>! (be silent), and
                     enforced his command by dealing out hearty blows with a long stick. The aree
                     seeing that <persName>captain Cook</persName> was not to be persuaded to
                     prolong his stay in this harbour, got up, and walked down along the river with
                     us, while his attendants carried his wooden stool, and the kingly presents
                     which he had received. On this walk he laid aside the gravity, which was not
                     natural to him, and talked with great affability to our common people. He
                     desired me to tell him the names of all the persons from on board both sloops,
                     who were present, to which he added the question, whether they had their wives
                     on board! Being answered in the negative, his majesty in a fit of good humour
                     desired them to look for partners among the daughters of the land, which they
                     understood it was meant at present, in the light of a mere compliment. He sat
                     down soon after close to a house of reeds, into which we all retired, when the
                     sun appeared through the clouds. Here he called for some coco-nuts, and began
                     to tell the story of the <hi rend="italics">Paheï no Peppe</hi>, or Spanish
                     ship, of which <persName>Tuahow</persName> had given us the first intimation.
                     According to the king's account it seemed clear, that the ship had been at
                        <placeName>Whaï Urua</placeName> five months before us, and had lain there
                     ten days. He added, that the captain had hanged four of his people, and that
                     the fifth had escaped the same punishment by running away. This European, whom
                     they named <persName>O-Pahoòtu</persName>, we enquired after to no purpose, for
                     a long while; till his majesty's attendants seeing us very eager to become
                     acquainted with him, assured us he was dead. We have since heard that about the
                     time mentioned by the natives, <persName>Don Juan de Langara y
                        Huarte</persName>, sent out from the port of <placeName>Callao</placeName>
                     in <placeName>Peru</placeName>,had visited <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>,
                     but what the particulars of that voyage are, has never transpired. While we
                     remained in the house <persName>E-Tee</persName>, the fat chief, who seemed to
                     be the principal counsellor of the king, very seriously asked us, whether we
                     had a God (<hi rend="italics">Eatuâ</hi>) in our country, and whether we
                     prayed to him (<hi rend="italics">epoore</hi>)? When we told him, that we
                     acknowledged a Divinity, who had made every thing, and was invisible, and that
                     we also were accustomed to address our petitions to him, he seemed to be highly
                     pleased, and repeated our words with notes of his own to several persons who
                     sat round him. To us he seemed to signify, that the ideas of his country-men
                     corresponded with ours in this respect. Every thing concurs indeed to convince
                     us, that this simple and only just conception of the Deity, has been familiar
                     to mankind in all ages and in all countries, and that only by the excessive
                     cunning of a few individuals, those complex systems of absurd idolatry have
                     been invented, which disgrace the history of almost every people. The love of
                     empire, or the pursuit after voluptuousness and indolence, seem to have
                     inspired the numerous branches of heathen priests with the idea of keeping the
                     minds of the people in awe, by awakening their superstition. The natural love
                     of the miraculous has made it easy for them not only to put their projects in
                     execution, but likewise to weave their prejudices so firmly into the web of
                     human knowledge, that to this moment the greater part of mankind pay them
                     homage, and blindly suffer themselves to be cheated in the grossest manner.</p>

                  <p n="316">While <persName>E-Tee</persName> was conversing on religious matters,
                        <persName>king Aheatua</persName> was playing with <persName>Captain
                        Cook's</persName> watch. After curiously examining the motion of so many
                     wheels, that seemed to move as it were spontaneously, and shewing his
                     astonishment at the noise it made, which he could not express otherwise than by
                     saying it " spoke" (<hi rend="italics">parou</hi>), he returned it, and
                     asked what it was good for. With a great deal of difficulty we made him
                     conceive that it measured the day, similar to the sun, by whose altitude in the
                     heavens he and his people are used to divide their time. After this
                     explanation, he called it a little sun, to shew us that he perfectly understood
                     our meaning. We were just getting up to return towards the beach, when a man
                     arrived who brought a hog along with him, which the king presented to the
                     captain, at the same time promising to give him another. With this small
                     beginning we rested satisfied, and taking our leave, without any troublesome
                     ceremony, only pronouncing a hearty <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi>, (friend),
                     which had more meaning in it than many a studied speech, we returned on
                     board.</p>

                  <p n="317">In the afternoon the captains went on shore with us again to the king,
                     whom we found where we had left him in the morning. He took that opportunity of
                     requesting the captains again to prolong their stay at least a few days; but he
                     received the same answer as before, and was plainly told, that his refusing to
                     provide us with live-stock was the reason of their intended departure. Upon
                     this he immediately sent for two hogs, and presented one to each of the
                     captains, for which he received some iron-wares in return. A highlander, who
                     was one of our marines, was ordered to play the bagpipe, and its uncouth music,
                     though almost insufferable to our ears, delighted the king and his subjects to
                     a degree which we could hardly have imagined possible. The distrust which we
                     perceived in his looks at our first interview was now worn off; and if we had
                     staid long enough, an unreserved confidence might have taken its place, to
                     which his youth and good-nature seemed to make him inclinable. The studied
                     gravity which he had then affected, was likewise laid aside at present, and
                     some of his actions rather partook of puerility, among which I cannot help
                     mentioning his amusement of chopping little sticks and cutting down plantations
                     of bananas with one of our hatchets. But, instead of cultivating any farther
                     acquaintance with him, we took our last leave towards the close of the evening,
                     and returned to the sloops, which unmoored before night.</p>

                  <p n="318">
                     <date>[Tuesday 24.]</date>The inhabitants seeing us prepare for sailing the
                     next morning, came off in a vast number of small canoes, loaded with coco-nuts
                     and other vegetable provisions, which they sold excessively cheap, rather than
                     miss the last opportunity of obtaining European goods. The taste for baubles,
                     which unaccountably prevails all over the world in different degrees, was so
                     extravagant here, that a single bead was eagerly purchased with a dozen of the
                     finest coco-nuts, and sometimes preferred even to a nail, though the last might
                     be of some use, and the bead could serve merely as an insignificant ornament.
                     We observed that the trade was carried on much fairer this time than at our
                     arrival, the natives being perhaps apprehensive that any little fraud might
                     break off a commerce, in which they now appeared deeply interested. They
                     accompanied us for this purpose till we were a mile or two without the reefs,
                     and then returned to the beach, where we had left <persName>lieutenant
                        Pickersgill</persName> with a boat, in order to take advantage of their
                     present disposition.</p>

                  <p n="319">We were now able to breathe a little, after the continual hurry which
                     had been the necessary consequence of the multiplicity of new objects around
                     us, and of the short space of time which we had to observe them. This interval
                     of repose was the more acceptable, as it gave us leisure to indulge the
                     reflections which had crouded upon us during our stay. The result of these was
                     a conviction, that this island is indeed one of the happiest spots on the
                     globe. The rocks of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> appeared at first in a
                     favourable light to our eyes, long tired with the constant view of sea, and
                     ice, and sky; but time served to undeceive us, and gave us daily cause of
                     dislike, till we formed a just conception of that rude chaotic country. But
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, which had presented a pleasing prospect
                     at a distance, and displayed its beauty as we approached, became more
                     enchanting to us at every excursion which we made on its plains. Our long run
                     out of sight of land might have been supposed at first to have had the same
                     effect as at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> but our stay confirmed instead
                     of destroying the emotions which we had felt at the first sight; even though we
                     had no room to be so well pleased with the refreshments we had obtained, which
                     were not by far so plentiful as the fish and wild-fowl of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, and still obliged us to have recourse to salt
                     provisions. The season of the year, which answered to our month of February,
                     had naturally brought on a scarcity of fruits; for though it does not manifest
                     itself here by refrigerating the air, as in countries remote from the tropics,
                     yet it is the season when all vegetation recovers the juices which have formed
                     the late crop, and prepares them for a new one. At this time several trees
                     entirely shed their leaves, several plants died away to the very root, and the
                     remaining ones looked parched on account of the want of rain, which commonly
                     takes place then, because the sun is in the opposite hemisphere. The whole
                     plain therefore was arrayed in a sober brownish and sometimes sallow colour.
                     Only the lofty mountains preserved richer tints in their forests, which are
                     supplied with more moisture from the clouds that hang on their summits almost
                     every day. From thence, among other things, the natives brought great
                     quantities of wild plantanes (vehee), and that perfumed wood (<hi rend="italics">e-ahaï</hi>), with which they give their coco-nut oil (<hi rend="italics">monòë</hi>), a very fragrant smell. The shattered state in
                     which we saw the tops of these mountains, seemed to have been the work of an
                     earthquake; and the lavas, of which many of the mountains consist, and of which
                     the natives make several tools, convinced us of the existence of former
                     volcanoes on this island. The rich soil of the plains, which is a vegetable
                     mould, mixed with volcanic decays, and a black irony sand, which is often found
                     at the foot of the hills, are farther proofs of this assertion. The exterior
                     ranges of hills are sometimes entirely barren, and contain a great quantity of
                     yellowish clay, mixed with iron-ochre; but others are covered with mould, and
                     wooded like the higher mountains. Pieces of quartz are sometimes met with here,
                     but we never saw indications of precious minerals or metals of any kind, iron
                     excepted, and of that there were but small remains in the lavas which we picked
                     up; but the mountains may perhaps contain some iron-ore rich enough for fusion.
                     As to the piece of salt-petre, as big as an egg, which <persName>Captain
                        Wallis</persName> mentions as a product of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName><ref target="#edn78">
                           <note xml:id="edn78" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. I. p. 457. </note>
                        </ref>
                     , with all respect for his nautical abilities, I beg leave to doubt
                     of its existence; since native salt-petre has never yet been found in solid
                     lumps, as appears from Cronstedt's Mineralogy.</p>

                  <p n="320">The view of <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, along which we now
                     sailed to the northward, suggested these cursory observations on its fossil
                     productions, while our eyes remained eagerly fixed on the spot which had
                     afforded us such a fund of real amusement and instruction. Our reflections were
                     only interrupted by the summons to dine on fresh pork, which was instantly
                     obeyed with an alacrity, that sufficiently proved our long abstinence. We were
                     agreeably surprised to find this pork entirely free from the luscious richness
                     which makes it resist the stomach so soon in <placeName>Europe</placeName>; the
                     fat was to be compared to marrow, and the lean had almost the tender taste of
                     veal. The vegetable diet which the hogs are used to at
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, seems to be the principal cause of this
                     difference, and may have had some influence even on the natural instincts of
                     these animals. They were of that small breed which is commonly called the
                     Chinese, and had not those pendulous ears, which according to the ingenious
                        <persName>count de Buffon</persName>, are the characters of slavery in
                     animals. They were likewise much cleanlier than our European hogs, and did not
                     seem to have that singular custom of wallowing in the mire. It is certain that
                     these animals are a part of the real riches of the Taheitians, and we saw great
                     numbers of them at <placeName>Aitepèha</placeName>, though the natives took
                     great pains to conceal them. But they are so far from being their principal
                     dependence, that I believe their total extirpation would be no great loss,
                     especially as they are now entirely the property of the chiefs. They kill their
                     hogs very seldom, perhaps only on certain solemn occasions; but at those times
                     the chiefs eat pork with the same unbounded greediness, with which certain sets
                     of men are reproached at the turtle-feasts in <placeName>England</placeName>;
                     while the common sort rarely, if ever taste a little bit, which is always held
                     as a great dainty among them. Notwithstanding this, all the trouble of
                     breeding, bringing up, and fattening the hogs is allotted to the lowest class
                     of people.</p>

                  <p n="321">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 25.]</date>We were becalmed in the evening, and during a great
                     part of the night, but had a S.E. wind the next morning, so that we stood in
                     shore again, in sight of the northern-most part of
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> and of the adjacent <placeName>isle of
                        Eimeo</placeName>. The mountains here formed larger masses, which had a more
                     grand effect than at <placeName>Aitepeha</placeName>. The slopes of the lower
                     hills were likewise more considerable, though almost entirely destitute of
                     trees or verdure; and the ambient border of level land, was much more extensive
                     hereabouts, and seemed in some places to be above a mile broad. Towards
                        <time>ten o'clock</time> we had the pleasure to see several canoes coming
                     off from the shore towards us. Their long narrow sails, consisting of several
                     mats sowed together, their streamers of feathers, and the heap of coco-nuts and
                     bananas on board, had all together a picturesque appearance. For a few beads
                     and nails they disposed of their cargoes, and returned on shore to take in
                     another. About noon our boat arrived with <persName>lieutenant
                        Pickersgill</persName>, who had been very successful in trading at Aitepeha,
                     having purchased nine hogs and a quantity of fruit. His majesty,
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName>, had been present at the trading-place the
                     whole time, and after seating himself near the heap of iron wares, which our
                     people had brought on shore, desired to market for them, and was extremely
                     equitable in giving hatchets of different kinds for hogs of proportionate
                     sizes. In the intervals however, he amused himself as he had done the evening
                     before, with chopping small sticks, with which our sailors were much
                     entertained, and after their manner made many shrewd observations on triflers.
                        <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> having expended his stock in trade, put
                     off from <placeName>Aitepeha</placeName> in the afternoon, and came the same
                     evening to <placeName>Hiddea</placeName>, the district of
                        <placeName>O-Rettee</placeName>
                     <placeName>(Ereti)</placeName> where <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>
                     lay at an anchor in 1768. Here he was hospitably entertained by the worthy old
                     chief, who is so justly celebrated by that gallant French navigator; and the
                     next morning his brother <persName>Tarooree</persName> embarked with our
                     officer, in order to visit the ships which they saw in the offing. When he came
                     on board we found he had a kind of impediment in his organs of speech, by which
                     means he substituted a K wherever the language required a T; a fault which we
                     afterwards observed in several other individuals. He favoured us with his
                     company at dinner, as well as another native named
                     <persName>O-Wahow</persName>, who was the first that had come aboard from this
                     part of the island, and to whom my father had immediately presented a few beads
                     and a small nail, merely to try his disposition. In return he produced a
                     fish-hook neatly made of mother of pearl, which he gave to his new friend. A
                     larger nail was the reward of this good-natured action; and on the receipt of
                     this he sent his boy to the shore in his canoe. Towards <time>four
                        o'clock</time> the canoe returned, and brought on board this man's brother,
                     and a present of a number of coco-nuts, several bunches of bananas, and a
                     clothing-mat. There was something so generous in <persName>O-Wahow's</persName>
                     way of acting, above all the little ideas of bartering, that we could not fail
                     to express the highest regard for him. A much more considerable present was
                     returned to him, rather to confirm him in his noble sentiments, than as a
                     compensation for his gift. With that he retired in the evening, promising to
                     return to us again, and expressing such extravagant emotions of joy as are
                     commonly the effects of unexpected good fortune.</p>

                  <p n="322">In the mean while we gradually approached the shore, a faint breeze
                     helping us on, and the evening-sun illuminating the landscape with the richest
                     golden tints. We now discerned that long projecting point, which from the
                     observation made upon it, had been named <placeName>Point Venus</placeName>,
                     and easily agreed, that this was by far the most beautiful part of the island.
                     The district of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>, which now opened to our view,
                     exhibited a plain of such an extent as we had not expected, and the valley
                     which we traced running up between the mountains, was itself a very spacious
                     grove, compared to the little narrow glens in <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>.
                     We hauled round the point about <time>three o'clock</time>, and saw it crouded
                     with a prodigious number of people, who gazed at us with fixed attention; but
                     as soon as we came to an anchor, in the fine bay which it shelters, the greater
                     part of them ran very precipitately round the whole beach, and across
                        <placeName>One-tree-hill</placeName> to <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>, the
                     next district to the westward. Among the whole croud, we saw only a single man
                     whose shoulders were covered with a garment, and he, according to our friend
                        <persName>O-Wahow's</persName> testimony, was <persName>O-Too</persName>,
                     the king of <persName>O-Taheitee-Nue</persName> ,<persName>(the Greater
                        Taheitee)</persName>. His person was tall, and very advantageously
                     proportioned, but he ran very nimbly along with his subjects, which the natives
                     on board attributed to his apprehensions on our account.</p>

                  <p n="323">Though it was near sun-set when we came to an anchor, yet our decks
                     were in a short time crouded with natives of all ranks, who recognized their
                     old friends in many of our officers and sailors, with a degree of reciprocal
                     joy, which cannot easily be described. Among them was the old, venerable
                        <persName>O-Whaw</persName>, whose peaceable character and good offices to
                     our people, are taken notice of in the account of <persName>Lieutenant
                        Cook's</persName> first voyage, particularly upon the occasion when one of
                     the natives was murdered<ref target="#edn79">
                        <note xml:id="edn79" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 83, 90, 91. </note>
                     </ref>. He immediately recollected <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName>, and
                     calling him by his Taheitean name, <persName>Petrodero</persName> enumerated on
                     his fingers, that this was the third visit he made to the island, that
                     gentleman having been here both in the Dolphin and the Endeavour. A chief,
                     named <persName>Maratata<ref target="#edn80">
                           <note xml:id="edn80" anchored="true"> Ibid. p. 157. Maraïtata. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, paid <persName>captain Cook</persName> a visit with his lady,
                        <persName>(Tedua)-Erararee</persName>, who was a very well-looking young
                     woman, and both received a number of presents, though it appeared that these
                     were the sole motives for coming on board. A very tall, fat man, the
                     father-in-law of <persName>Maratata</persName>, accompanied them, and was
                     equally fortunate in collecting presents amongst us, which he took no other
                     method to obtain, than down-right begging. They all exchanged names with us in
                     sign of friendship, every one choosing a particular friend, to whom he was
                     attached; customs which we had never observed in our former anchoring place,
                     where the natives were infinitely more reserved, and in some degree diffident
                     of our intentions. Towards <time>seven o'clock</time> they left the ship, not
                     without promising to return the next morning, which, from the good reception
                     they had met with, did not seem to admit of a doubt.</p>

                  <p n="324">All night the moon shone clear in a cloudless sky, and silvered over
                     the polished surface of the sea, while the landscape lay before us like the gay
                     production of a fertile and elegant fancy. A perfect silence reigned in the
                     air, which was agreeably interrupted by the voices of several natives that had
                     remained on board, and enjoyed the beauty of the night with their friends, whom
                     they had known in a former voyage. They were seated at the sides of the vessel,
                     and discoursed on several topics, making their words more intelligible by
                     different signs. We listened to them, and found that they chiefly put questions
                     concerning what had happened to our people since their last separation, and
                     gave accounts in their turn of the tragical fate of
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName>, and his friends. <persName>Gibson</persName>,
                     the marine, who was so much delighted with this island, in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> former voyage, that he made an attempt to stay behind<ref target="#edn81">
                        <note xml:id="edn81" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 176, 179. </note>
                     </ref>, was now chiefly engaged in this conversation, as he understood more of
                     the language than the rest of the crew, and was on that account greatly valued
                     by the natives. The confidence which these people placed in us, and their
                     familiar, unreserved behaviour, gave us infinite satisfaction, as it contrasted
                     so well with the conduct of the people of <placeName>Aitepèha</placeName>. We
                     now saw the character of the natives in a more favourable light than ever, and
                     were convinced that the remembrance of injuries, and the spirit of revenge, did
                     not enter into the composition of the good and simple Taheitians. It must
                     surely be a comfortable reflection to every sensible mind, that philanthropy
                     seems to be natural to mankind, and that the savage ideas of distrust,
                     malevolence, and revenge, are only the consequences of a gradual depravation of
                     manners. There are few instances where people, who are not absolutely sunk to a
                     state of barbarism, have acted contrary to this general peaceable principle.
                     The discoveries of <persName>Columbus</persName>, <persName>Cortez</persName>,
                     and <persName>Pizarro</persName> in <placeName>America</placeName>, and those
                     of <persName>Mendanna</persName>, <persName>Quiros</persName>,
                        <persName>Schouten</persName>, <persName>Tasman<ref target="#edn82">
                           <note xml:id="edn82" anchored="true"> We except the savages of
                                 <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, and <persName>Wallis</persName> in the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>, agree in this particular. It is highly probable, that the
                     attack which the Taheitians made upon the Dolphin, took its origin from some
                     outrage unknowingly committed by the Europeans; and supposing it did not, if
                     self-preservation be one of the first laws of nature, surely from all
                     appearances these people had a right to look on our men as a set of invaders,
                     and what is more than all, to be apprehensive that even their liberty was at
                     stake. When, after a fatal display of superior European force, they were
                     convinced that nothing farther than a short stay for refreshment was intended,
                     that the strangers who came among them were not entirely destitude of humane
                     and equitable sentiments; in short, when they found that Britons were not more
                     savage than themselves, they were ready to open their arms to them, they forgot
                     that they had had a difference, and bid them partake of each kindly production
                     of their isle. They all exerted themselves in acts of hospitality and
                     testimonies of friendship from the lowest subject to the queen, that every one
                     of their guests might have reason to say, he regretted his departure from this
                     friendly shore:</p>

                  <p n="325">
                     <q>Invitus, regina, tuo de litore cessi! <persName>Virgil</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="326"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="9" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. IX.<lb/>
                     Account of our Transactions at <placeName>Matavaï Bay</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="327">
                     <date>[1773. August.][Thursday 26.]</date>
                     <persName>CAPTAIN Cook</persName> in his voyage in the Endeavour, had observed
                     that, in order to obtain a sufficient supply of refreshments at
                        <placeName>Matavaï Bay</placeName>, it was absolutely necessary to
                     conciliate the favour of the sovereign, unless peaceable measures were entirely
                     to be rejected, and the tragedies of former times be repeated. With this view
                     he resolved to begin his operations here in the morning, by going to the
                     province of <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>, where <persName>king
                        O-Too</persName> resided. He did not, however, leave the ship till
                        <persName>Maratata</persName> and his wife had been on board agreeable to
                     their promise. In return for the presents which they had received the evening
                     before, they gave some pieces of their best cloth to the captain, and were very
                     proud to be admitted into the great cabin, while the rest of their countrymen
                     were obliged to stay without. As soon as <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName>
                     was come on board from the Adventure, <persName>Captain Cook</persName>
                     embarked in the pinnace with him, accompanied by <persName>Doctor
                        Sparrman</persName>, my father, and myself. <persName>Maratata</persName>,
                     without any ceremony, likewise came in with his wife, and immediately occupied
                     the best place in the stern. A croud of attendants followed them, till the boat
                     was so full, that our people found it impossible to ply their oars. The greater
                     part of these unbidden guests were therefore obliged to leave it, to their
                     visible disappointment; for they seemed to have set a great value upon the
                     liberty of sitting in our boat, which was fresh painted, and had a pleasant
                     green awning to skreen us from the sun. We rowed across the bay, and approached
                     the shore near a point where a thick shrubbery surrounded a maraï of stone,
                     such as we had already observed in <placeName>Aitepèha</placeName>. This
                     cemetery and place of worship was known to <persName>Captain Cook</persName> by
                     the name of <persName>Tootahah's</persName> marai, but when he called it by
                     this name, <persName>Maratata</persName> interrupted him, intimating that it
                     was no longer <persName>Tootahah's</persName> after his death, but was known at
                     present as <persName>O-Too's</persName> maraï. A fine moral for princes, daily
                     reminding them of mortality whilst they live, and teaching them that after
                     death they cannot even call the ground their own which their dead corse
                     occupies! - The chief and his wife on passing by it, took their upper garment
                     from their shoulders, which is a mark of respect indiscriminately paid at the
                     maraï by all ranks of people, and seems to annex a particular idea of sanctity
                     to these places. Perhaps they are supposed to be favoured with the more
                     immediate presence of the Deity, agreeably to the opinion that has been
                     entertained of public places of worship at all times and among all nations.</p>

                  <p n="328">After passing the maraï, we rowed for some time close along one of the
                     finest districts of <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, where the plains seemed
                     to be very spacious, and the mountains ran with a very easy slope into a long
                     point. A prodigious number of inhabitants lined the shores, which were covered
                     with grasses, and shaded with numerous palms close to the water's edge. Here we
                     landed, amidst the joyful acclamations of the multitude, and were conducted to
                     a group of houses, hid under spreading fruit-trees. Before one of the largest
                     we saw an area twenty or thirty yards square, surrounded by an enclosure of
                     reeds, not above eighteen inches high, in the middle of which the king was
                     seated cross-legged on the ground, in a great circle of persons of both sexes,
                     who seemed to be of the highest rank in the island from their stature, colour
                     and deportment. Some of our sailors laid down a number of presents before him,
                     which served as <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> credentials. We all
                     followed, and were intreated to sit down around the king. The respect which was
                     paid to the sovereign by all ranks of people, and which consisted in uncovering
                     the shoulders in his presence, did not prevent hem from thronging around us on
                     all sides with the greatest eagerness of curiosity. The croud was beyond
                     comparison more numerous than at our interview with
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName>, and the king's attendants in different corners
                     of the area were obliged to exert themselves in order to keep them within
                     bounds. One in particular displayed his activity in a furious manner to clear
                     the way for us, by beating them unmercifully, breaking several sticks on their
                     heads, and no doubt breaking their heads too.</p>

                  <p n="329">
                     <q>
                        <l>E come quel ch'ancor de la pazzia</l>
                        <l> Non era ben guarito interamente;</l>
                        <l> Per allargare innanzi al Re la via,</l>
                        <l> Menava quella mazza fra la gente,</l>
                        <l> Ch'un imbriaco svizzero paria</l>
                        <l> Di quei, che con villan modo insolente,</l>
                        <l> Sogliono innanzi 'l Papa il dì di festa,</l>
                        <l> Rompere a chi le braccia, a chi la testa, Tassoni.</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="330">Notwithstanding this severe treatment, they returned as obstinately to
                     the charge as an English mob, but bore the insolence of the king's officers
                     with more patience. The king of <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> had never
                     seen our people during <persName>captain Cook's</persName> first voyage,
                     probably in consequence of the political views of his uncle
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName>, who at that time had the whole management of
                     affairs in his hands, and who might be apprehensive of losing his consequence
                     among the Europeans, if they should once know that he was not the greatest man
                     on the island. Whether <persName>Tootahah's</persName> power was to be
                     considered as an usurpation, or not, is not easily to be determined; so much
                     however may be alledged against him, that the king himself seemed to us to be a
                     man of twenty-four or twenty-five years of age. <persName>O-Too</persName> was
                     the tallest man whom we saw on the whole island which he governs, measuring six
                     feet and three inches in height. His whole body was proportionately strong and
                     well-made, without any tendency to corpulence. His head, notwithstanding a
                     certain gloominess which seemed to express a fearful disposition, had a
                     majestic and intelligent air, and there was great expression in his full black
                     eyes. He wore strong whiskers, which with his beard, and a prodigious growth of
                     curled hair, were all of a jetty black. His portrait is engraved from
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges's</persName> drawing, for <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage. The same habit of body, and the
                     same singular quantity of hair, which stood puffed up all about the head
                     intricately entwined and curled, characterised his brothers, one a youth of
                     about sixteen, another ten years of age, and likewise his sisters, of which the
                     eldest now present seemed about twenty-six. The women of
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> in general, cut their hair rather short;
                     it was therefore a very uncommon appearance on the heads of these ladies, and
                     may, for ought we know, be a privilege reserved only to those of the royal
                     family. Their rank however did not exclude them from the general etiquette of
                     uncovering the shoulders in the king's presence, a ceremony which afforded the
                     whole sex numberless opportunities of displaying an elegant figure to the
                     greatest advantage. The simple drapery of a long white piece of cloth, like a
                     muslin, was to be turned an hundred different ways, according to the
                     convenience, or the talents and fine taste of the wearer; no general fashions
                     force them to disfigure, instead of adorning themselves, but an innate
                     gracefulness was the companion of simplicity. The only person exempted from the
                     general custom of uncovering the shoulder was the king's <hi rend="italics">hòa</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn83">
                        <note xml:id="edn83" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 243. <hi rend="italics">eowa no l'earee</hi>, by which is
                           meant <hi rend="italics">e-hoa no te aree</hi>, (a friend to the
                           king). </note>
                     </ref>, one of his servants, whom we could not better compare than to the lord
                     in waiting, and of whom we understood there were twelve who officiated by
                     turns. Some of them were the same gentlemen who had displayed their dexterity
                     before, by dealing out hearty blows to the crowd. The number of uncles, aunts,
                     cousins, and other relations of his majesty, amongst whom we were seated, vied
                     with each other in bestowing kind looks upon us, making professions of
                     friendship, and - begging for beads and nails. The methods to obtain these
                     trifles from us were very different, and consequently not always equally
                     successful. When we distributed a few beads to one set of people, some young
                     fellows would impudently thrust their hands in between them, and demand their
                     share, as though it had been their due; these attempts we always made it our
                     business to discourage by a flat refusal. It was already become difficult to
                     deny a venerable old man, who with a hand not yet palsied by age, vigorously
                     pressed ours, and with a perfect reliance upon our good nature, whispered the
                     petition in our ears. The elderly ladies in general made sure of a prize, by a
                     little artful flattery. They commonly enquired for our names, and then adopted
                     us as their sons, at the same time introducing to us the several relations,
                     whom we acquired by this means. After a series of little caresses, the old lady
                     began, <hi rend="italics">Aima poe-èetee no te tayo mettua</hi>? " Have you
                     not a little bead for your kind mother?" Such a trial of our filial attachment
                     always had its desired effect, as we could not fail to draw the most favourable
                     conclusions from thence in regard to the general kind disposition of the whole
                     people: for to expect a good quality in others, of which we ourselves are not
                     possessed, is a refinement in manners peculiar to polished nations. Our other
                     female relations in the bloom of youth, with some share of beauty, and constant
                     endeavours to please, laid a claim to our affections by giving themselves the
                     tender name of sisters; and all the world will agree that this attack was
                     perfectly irresistible.</p>

                  <p n="331">In a little time we met with an ample return for our presents,
                     especially from the ladies, who immediately sent their attendants (Towtows) for
                     large pieces of their best cloth, dyed of a scarlet, rose, or straw colour, and
                     perfumed with their choicest fragrant oil. These they put over our cloathes,
                     and loaded us so well that we found it difficult to move in them. A variety of
                     questions concerning <persName>Tabane</persName>
                     <persName>(Mr. Banks)</persName>, <persName>Tolano</persName>
                     <persName>(Dr. Solander)</persName>, and many of their former acquaintances,
                     immediately followed the more material business of receiving presents; but
                        <persName>Tupaya</persName>
                     <persName>(Tupia)</persName> or as he was more commonly called
                        <persName>Parua</persName>, notwithstanding the extensive knowledge of which
                     he seems to have been possessed, and which we expected should have endeared him
                     to his countrymen; was only mentioned by one or two persons, who received the
                     news of his death with perfect indifference. Whilst we were engaged in this
                     conversation, our Highlander performed on the bag-pipe to the infinite
                     satisfaction of all the Taheitians, who listened to him with a mixture of
                     admiration and delight. <persName>King O-Too</persName> in particular was so
                     well pleased with his musical abilities, which I have already observed were
                     mean enough, that he ordered him a large piece of the coarser cloth as a reward
                     for his trouble.</p>

                  <p n="332"> As this visit was merely a visit of ceremony, we soon got up to return
                     to our boat, but were detained a little longer by the arrival of
                           <persName>E-Happaï<ref target="#edn84">
                           <note xml:id="edn84" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 154. Whappai. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName> the father of the sovereign. He was a tall, thin man, with a grey
                     beard and hair, seemed to be of a great age, but was not yet entirely worn out.
                     He received the presents which our captains made him, in a cold careless
                     manner, which is natural to old people whose senses are considerably impaired.
                     The accounts of former voyagers had already apprised us of that strange
                     constitution, by virtue of which the son assumes the sovereignty in his
                     father's life time<ref target="#edn85">
                        <note xml:id="edn85" anchored="true"> Ibid, p. 154, 243. </note>
                     </ref>, but we could not without surprize, behold the aged
                        <persName>Happaï</persName>, naked to the waist in his son's presence,
                     conform to the general custom. Thus the ideas universally annexed to
                     consanguinity, are suppressed in order to give greater weight to the regal
                     dignity, and I cannot help thinking that such a sacrifice to political
                     authority, argues a greater degree of civilization than has been allowed to the
                     Taheitians by our former navigators. However, though
                        <persName>Happaï</persName> was not invested with the supreme command, his
                     birth and rank entitled him to deference from the common people, and to a
                     proper support from the king. The province or district of
                        <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>, was therefore under his immediate orders,
                     and supplied not only his wants, but those also of his attendants. After a very
                     short stay with this old chief, we parted from him, and from the king his son,
                     and returned on board in the pinnace, which Maratata had occupied during the
                     whole time of our interview, priding himself very much on his supposed interest
                     with us. During our absence several tents had been erected on <placeName>Point
                        Venus</placeName>, for the convenience of our wood-cutters and waterers, and
                     the sick of the Adventure. The astronomers of both vessels had likewise fixed
                     their observatory nearly on the same spot, where <persName>Mr. Green</persName>
                     and <persName>captain Cook</persName> had observed the transit of Venus. We
                     found a great number of inhabitants about the vessels, and among the rest
                     several of the better sort of people, who having access to all parts of the
                     ship, followed every body with their petitions for beads and other presents.
                     The captains to evade their endless importunities went on shore to the tents,
                     and thither we accompanied them in order to see what natural productions the
                     country afforded. Another excursion of the same kind was made in the afternoon,
                     but as both were confined to an inconsiderable distance, our discoveries only
                     consisted of a few plants and birds which we had not seen at Aitepèha.</p>

                  <p n="333">
                     <date>[Friday 27.]</date>The next morning very early, a number of canoes came
                     to the ship from <placeName>Parre</placeName>, and in one of the smallest, the
                     king in person brought many presents to <placeName>captain Cook</placeName>. A
                     live hog, a very large fish called a cavalha (<hi rend="italics">scomber
                        hippos</hi>), and an albecore ready dressed, about four feet long, with
                     many baskets of palm-leaves containing bread-fruit and bananas, were handed up
                     to the deck successively. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> stood on the ship's
                     side, entreating his majesty to come on board, but he did not stir from his
                     seat, till an immense quantity of the best cloth of the country had been
                     wrapped round the captain, encreasing his bulk to a prodigious dimension. After
                     this ceremony, Too, with a countenance which betrayed a good deal of
                     diffidence, ventured to come upon the quarter-deck, and embraced the captain,
                     who in conjunction with his officers and ourselves, devised all possible means
                     to quiet these apprehensions. Our quarter-deck was now so crouded with the
                     king's relations, that he was requested to come into the cabin; but the descent
                     between decks was so hazardous an enterprize according to his ideas, that he
                     could by no means be prevailed on to attempt it, till he had sent down his
                     brother, a fine active youth about sixteen years of age, who placed a perfect
                     confidence in us. Having reconnoitred the cabin, and finding it to his liking,
                     he made his report accordingly to the king, who immediately ventured down. He
                     received a great number of valuable presents from <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, who began to find himself very warm under his load of
                     cloth. The principal people accompanied his majesty into the cabin, but they
                     crouded in so fast, that it was almost impossible to stir for them. Every one
                     of these, as I have already mentioned, chose his particular friend amongst us,
                     and reciprocal gifts sealed every new connection. <persName>Captain
                        Furneaux</persName> being arrived on board, we took an opportunity of
                     sitting down to our breakfast, when they seemed perfectly easy, having
                     prevailed on them to seat themselves on chairs, which struck them with their
                     novelty and convenience. The king paid great attention to our breakfast, which
                     was a mixture of English and Taheitian provisions, and was much surprised to
                     see us drink hot-water<ref target="#edn86">
                        <note xml:id="edn86" anchored="true"> Tea. </note>
                     </ref>, and eat bread-fruit with oil<ref target="#edn87">
                        <note xml:id="edn87" anchored="true"> Butter. </note>
                     </ref>. Though he could not be persuaded to taste our food, several of his
                     attendants were not so cautious, but eat and drank very heartily of whatever we
                     set before them. After breakfast <persName>O-Too</persName> saw my father's
                     spaniel, a fine dog, but in very bad order at that time, and very dirty from
                     the pitch, tar, and other uncleanliness on board the ship. Notwithstanding
                     these defects, the king expressed a great desire of becoming his master, and
                     made a request to that purpose, which was readily complied with. He immediately
                     commanded one of the lords in waiting, or <hi rend="italics">hòas</hi>, to
                     take the dog into his custody; and in conformity to his orders, this man ever
                     after carried the dog behind his majesty. The king soon after told
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> that he wished to return on shore, and
                     went on deck with all his attendants, carrying with him the presents which he
                     had received. <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName> took that opportunity of
                     presenting to him a fine pair of goats, male and female, which he had brought
                     from on board his own vessel the same morning. We succeeded very well in our
                     attempt to make him comprehend the value of these animals, and the manner of
                     treating them; for he promised that he would never kill nor separate them, and
                     take great care of their offspring. The pinnace was now ready, and the king
                     embarked in it, with the captains and several other gentlemen, and proceeded to
                     the royal residence at <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>. During this passage he
                     appeared highly contented, asked a number of questions, and seemed to have
                     entirely conquered his former fears. His enquiries chiefly concerned the goats,
                     which had attracted all his attention, and we could never tell him too often
                     what they should feed upon, and how they were to be managed. As soon as we came
                     on shore, we pointed out to him a fine spot of ground, covered with a good bed
                     of grasses, in the shade of bread-fruit trees, and desired that the goats might
                     always be kept in such places. At our landing the shore was crouded with
                     people, who expressed their joy on seeing their sovereign by loud acclamations.
                     Among them we discerned the late <persName>Tootahah's</persName> mother, a
                     venerable grey-headed matron, who, on seeing <persName>captain Cook</persName>,
                     ran to embrace him, as the friend of her deceased son, and wept aloud at the
                     remembrance of her loss. We paid the tribute of admiration due to such
                     sensibility, which endears our fellow-creatures to us wherever it is met with,
                     and affords an undeniable proof of the original excellence of the human
                     heart.</p>

                  <p n="334">From hence we hastened away to our tents at <placeName>Point
                        Venus</placeName>, where the natives carried on a regular trade with
                     vegetables of all sorts, which sold at very low rates, a single bead being
                     given for a basket of bread-fruit or a bunch of coco-nuts. My father there met
                     his friend <persName>O-Wàhow</persName>, who presented him with a great
                     quantity of fruit, some fish, some good cloth, and some mother of pearl hooks.
                     This present deserved a compensation, but the generous Taheitian absolutely
                     refused to take any thing, saying that he gave these things as a friend, and
                     without any lucrative view. It seemed as if every thing had conspired this day
                     to give us a favourable idea of the amiable nation among whom we resided.</p>

                  <p n="335">We returned on board to dinner, and passed the afternoon there in the
                     occupations of describing and drawing objects of natural history. The decks in
                     the mean while were constantly crouded with natives of both sexes, prying into
                     every corner, and stealing whenever they found an opportunity. In the evening
                     we beheld a scene new and striking to ourselves, though familiar to those who
                     had been at Taheitee before. A great number of women of the lowest class,
                     having been previously engaged by our sailors, remained on board at sun-set,
                     after the departure of all their country people to the shore. We had observed
                     instances of the venality of the Taheitian females at
                        <placeName>Aitepèha</placeName>; but whatever might have been their
                     condescension towards our people in day-time, they had never ventured to pass a
                     night on board. The women of <placeName>Matavai</placeName> had studied the
                     dispositions of British seamen much better, and knew that they ran no risk by
                     entrusting themselves to their care; but on the contrary might make sure of
                     every bead, nail, hatchet, or shirt which their lovers could muster. This
                     evening was therefore as completely dedicated to mirth and pleasure, as if we
                     had lain at Spithead instead of <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>. Before it
                     was perfectly dark the women assembled on the forecastle, and one of them
                     blowing a flute with the nostrils, all the rest danced a variety of dances
                     usual in their country, amongst which there were some that did not exactly
                     correspond with our ideas of decency. However, if we consider that the
                     simplicity of their education and of their dress, makes many actions perfectly
                     innocent here, which, according to our customs, would be blameable, we cannot
                     impute that degree of unbounded licentiousness to them, with which the
                     prostitutes of civilized Europe are unhappily reproached. As soon as it was
                     dark they retired below decks, and if their lovers were of such a quality as to
                     afford them fresh pork, they supped without reserve, though they had before
                     refused to eat in the presence of their own countrymen, agreeably to that
                     incomprehensible custom which separates the sexes at their meals. The
                     quantities of pork which they could consume were astonishing, and their
                     greediness plainly indicated that they were rarely if ever indulged with that
                     delicious food in their own families. The instances of sensibility in
                        <persName>Tootahah's</persName> mother and in <persName>O-Wahow</persName>,
                     and the favourable ideas which we had from thence formed of the Taheitians were
                     so recent in our memories, that we were much hurt at the sight of these
                     creatures, who had entirely forgot the duties of life, and abandoned themselves
                     to the brutal sway of the passions. That there should exist so great a degree
                     of immorality in a nation, otherwise so happy in its simplicity, and in the
                     fewness of its wants, is a reflection very disgraceful to human nature in
                     general, which, viewed to its greatest advantage here, is nevertheless
                     imperfect. Is it not to be lamented, that the best gifts of a benevolent
                     Creator seem to be the most liable to frequent abuse, and that nothing is so
                     easy to mankind as error?</p>

                  <p n="336">
                     <date>[Saturday 28.]</date>Early the next morning <persName>O-Too</persName>,
                     with his sister <persName>Tedua-Towraï</persName>, and several relations, came
                     along-side, and sent up a hog and a large albecore into our vessel, but would
                     not come on board. He had a similar present for <persName>captain
                        Furneaux</persName>, but refused to go to the Adventure till my father went
                     with him. The ceremony of swaddling the captain in
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> cloth was performed again before his
                     majesty ventured on board; but that being over, he seemed to think himself safe
                     amongst us, and came on the deck, where <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>
                     gave him a variety of presents. His sister <persName>Tedua-Towraï</persName>
                     was on board the Resolution in the mean while, and all the women paid her the
                     same respect by uncovering the shoulders, which the whole nation owes to the
                     king. The active youth <persName>T'-<hi rend="italics">Aree</hi>
                        Watow</persName>, who was with the king his brother, had the same honours
                     paid to him; and it appeared to us that the title <hi rend="italics">Aree</hi>, though common to all the chiefs of districts, and the nobility
                     in general, was yet applied by way of excellence to the persons of the royal
                     family. <persName>O-Too</persName> soon left the Adventure, rejoined his sister
                     on board the Resolution, and was accompanied by both the captains to
                        <placeName>Parre</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="337">
                     <date>[Sunday 29.]</date>On the 29th at day-break we landed at our tents, and
                     proceeded into the country with an intention to examine its productions. A
                     copious dew, which had fallen during night, had refreshed the whole vegetable
                     creation, and contributed, together with the early hour of the morning, to make
                     our walk extremely pleasant. We found but few natives at the tents, some of
                     whom attended us to the ford in the river, and for a bead a-piece carried us
                     across, where it was twenty yards wide, without our wetting a foot. As we
                     entered the grove, we perceived the inhabitants in their houses just getting
                     up, and saw many of them performing their customary ablution in the adjacent
                     river of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>. There can be no doubt, that frequent
                     bathing in this warm climate is extremely salutary, and particularly in the
                     morning, when the water, being fresh and cool, cannot but be highly
                     instrumental in bracing the fibres, which might otherwise become too much
                     relaxed. The cleanliness which results from this custom, is certainly one of
                     the best preservatives against putrid disorders, and has the farther advantage
                     of making these people enjoy the comforts of society in a higher degree than
                     those savages who seem to shun the water, and become indifferent to each other,
                     and loathsome to strangers by their squalid appearance, and fetid exhalations.
                     We walked on till we came to a little hut, the lowly dwelling of a poor widow
                     with a numerous family. Her eldest son, <persName>Noona</persName>, a lively
                     boy about twelve years old, had always been particularly attached to the
                     Europeans, and being extremely quick of apprehension, understood us much better
                     at half a word, than many of his countrymen with all the gestures we could
                     invent, and after we had ransacked our vocabularies. This boy, who, with a dark
                     almost chesnut-brown colour, combined a set of pleasing, good-natured features,
                     had agreed the evening before, to become our guide on this day's excursion. At
                     our approach we found his mother, who had provided a number of coco-nuts and
                     some other provisions for us, sitting on the stones before her cottage, and her
                     children assembled about her, the youngest of which was not above four years
                     old. She seemed to be active enough, but however of such an age, that we had
                     some difficulty to believe her the mother of such young children, in a country
                     where we knew that the commerce of the sexes begins at an early age. The
                     arrival of a well-looking woman, about three or four and twenty years old, who
                     was <persName>Noona's</persName> eldest sister, soon accounted for the wrinkles
                     on her mother's brow. Instead of verifying the general observation, that women
                     in hot countries lose their sightliness much sooner than with us, we had now
                     reason to be surprised, that they should be so prolific here, as to bear
                     children during a period of almost twenty years. It was natural that our
                     thoughts should return to the happy simplicity in which the life of the
                     Taheitians smoothly rolls along, and which, undisturbed by cares and wants, is
                     the cause of the great population of their island.</p>

                  <p n="338">A stout fellow, whom we hired for a few beads, carried the provisions
                     which the hospitable old woman had offered us, suspending them in equal
                     portions on the two extremities of a strong pole, about four feet long, which
                     he placed on his shoulder. Young <persName>Noona</persName>, and his little
                     brother <persName>Toparree</persName>, about four years old, cheerfully
                     accompanied us, after we had enriched the whole family with beads, nails,
                     looking-glasses, and knives.</p>

                  <p n="339">The first part of our march was a little difficult, on account of a
                     hill on which we mounted, in hopes of meeting with something to reward our
                     trouble. But, contrary to our expectations, we found it entirely destitute of
                     plants, two dwarfish shrubs, and a species of dry fern excepted. Here, however,
                     we were much surprised to see a large flock of wild ducks rising before us,
                     from a spot which was perfectly dry and barren, without our being able to
                     imagine what had brought them thither from the reeds and marshy banks of the
                     river, where they commonly resided. We soon crossed another hill, where all the
                     ferns and bushes having lately been burnt, blackened our clothes as we passed
                     through them. From thence we descended into a fertile valley, where a fine
                     rivulet, which we were obliged to cross several times, ran towards the sea. The
                     natives had placed several stone weirs across this rivulet, in order to raise
                     the water, which might by that means be introduced into their plantations of
                     the tarro, or eddy-root (<hi rend="italics">arum esculentum</hi>), that
                     requires a very marshy, and sometimes an inundated soil. We found two species
                     of it, one of which has large glossy leaves, and roots about four feet long,
                     but is very coarse; the other with velvet leaves and small, but more palatable
                     roots. Both are excessively pungent and caustic, till boiled in several waters;
                     however, hogs eat them raw without any reluctance. The valley became narrower
                     as we advanced up along the rivulet, and the hills which included it were much
                     steeper, and covered with forests. Every part of the level ground was, however,
                     planted with coco-nut, apple, and bread-fruit trees, with bananas, cloth-trees,
                     and various roots, and a number of houses were conveniently situated at short
                     distances from each other. In different parts we met with immense beds of loose
                     pebble-stones in the rivulet and on its banks, which seemed to have been washed
                     out of the mountains, and worn into round or oblong shapes, by the continual
                     motion and agitation of the water. On the sides of the hills we gathered
                     several new plants, sometimes at the risk of breaking our necks, on account of
                     the pieces of rock which rolled away under our feet. A great number of
                     inhabitants assembled about us, and among them several who brought us abundance
                     of coco-nuts, bread-fruit, and apples for sale. We bought as much as we thought
                     necessary for our provision, and hired some of the natives to carry it. After
                     proceeding up about five miles from the sea-side we sat down in the shade of a
                     number of trees, on a pleasant green turf, and made our meal, which consisted
                     of the fruit we had purchased, and of some pork and fish which we had taken
                     from on board. The natives formed a circle round us; but those who had been our
                     guides and assistants were permitted to sit by us, and partook of our cheer
                     with a very good appetite. They were most surprised at the salt, which we had
                     taken care to provide, and which they saw us eat with all sorts of victuals,
                     bread-fruit not excepted. Some of them were desirous of tasting it, and among
                     these there were a few who relished it very well, because they are used to
                     employ sea-water as a sauce both to fish and to pork<ref target="#edn88">
                        <note xml:id="edn88" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 200, 201. </note>
                     </ref>. </p>

                  <p n="340">It was about <time>four o'clock in the afternoon</time>, when we
                     thought of returning to the sea-side with our acquisitions. About this time a
                     number of inhabitants came across the hills with loads of horse-plantanes, a
                     coarse sort, which grows almost without cultivation, and which they brought for
                     sale to our ships. We followed them along the side of the rivulet to a place
                     where some children offered us a few little prawns picked out between the
                     stones in the bed of the river. We had no sooner taken them as a curiosity, and
                     rewarded the children with beads, than upwards of fifty persons of different
                     ages and sexes set about the same employment, and brought us so many of these
                     little creatures, that we were soon obliged to refuse them. In the space of two
                     hours we reached our tents on <placeName>Point Venus</placeName>, where we
                     found <persName>O-Wahow</persName>, the generous native who had brought my
                     father another present of provisions. In the course of this walk, we had
                     observed more idle persons than at <placeName>Aitepèha</placeName>; the houses
                     and plantations appeared more ruinous and neglected, and from several people
                     instead of invitations, or marks of hospitality, we only received importunate
                     petitions for beads and nails. Still upon the whole we had great reason to be
                     contented with our reception among them, and the liberty of roaming at pleasure
                     through all parts of their delightful country. We had now and then experienced
                     their disposition to theft, but had never lost any thing of value; for our
                     handkerchiefs, which were the easiest to come at, were made of their own
                     thinner cloth, so that they found themselves disappointed as often they had
                     dextrously picked our pockets, and with great good humour returned them to us.
                     In my opinion this vice is not of so heinous a nature among the Taheitians, as
                     amongst ourselves. People whose wants are so easily satisfied, and in whose
                     manner of living there is so much equality, can have very few motives to steal
                     from each other, and their open houses without doors and bars, are so many
                     proofs of mutual safety. The blame then lies in a great measure upon us, for
                     bringing temptations in their way too powerful to be withstood. They seem
                     indeed not to think their transgressions of great signification, perhaps from a
                     reflection that they do not materially injure us by any little larceny.</p>

                  <p n="341">During our absence the captains had paid a visit to the king at
                        <placeName>Parre</placeName>, where they were highly entertained by the
                     sight of a dramatic dance, which her royal highness <persName>Towraï</persName>
                     performed, in a dress exactly described in <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     former voyage, and with the same gestures which are there mentioned<ref target="#edn89">
                        <note xml:id="edn89" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 264, 265. See also the plate No. 7. though that conveys no
                           idea of Taheitians. </note>
                     </ref>. Two men danced at different intervals, when the princess rested, and,
                     with many strange distortions, spoke or sung some words, probably relative to
                     the subject of their dance, which was unintelligible to our people. The whole
                     entertainment lasted about an hour and a half, during which <persName>Tedua
                        Towraï</persName> displayed a wonderful activity, which surpassed every
                     thing that had been seen at the <placeName>isle of Ulietea</placeName> in the
                     former voyage.</p>

                  <p n="342">
                     <date>[Monday 30.]</date>Early the next morning <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> sent <persName>lieutenant Pickersgill</persName> to the
                     south-west part of the island, in order to purchase some fresh provision, and
                     particularly some hogs, of which we had hitherto received only two from the
                     king. We continued on board the whole day, describing the plants which we had
                     found on our last excursion. In the evening, about <time>ten o'clock</time>, we
                     heard a great noise on shore abreast of our vessels, apparently occasioned by
                     some of our men. The captains immediately sent their boats ashore, with proper
                     officers, who brought on board several marines and a sailor. They had obtained
                     leave to take a walk from the commanding officer at the tents, but had exceeded
                     their time, and beaten one of the natives. They were immediately secured in
                     irons, as it was of the utmost consequence towards continuing upon an amicable
                     footing with this nation, to punish them in an exemplary manner.
                        <persName>O-Too</persName> had promised to come on board with his father the
                     next morning, but this noise, of which he had received advice within half an
                     hour after it had happened, made him so justly diffident of our intentions,
                     that he sent his messenger or ambassador <persName>(<hi rend="italics">Whanno
                           no</hi>
                        <hi rend="italics">t'aree</hi>
                        <ref target="#edn90">
                           <note xml:id="edn90" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 243. </note>
                        </ref>)</persName>, who was one of the principal lords of his court, named
                        <persName>E-Tee</persName>, to make an apology for his non-appearance.
                     Before he came on board, however, <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> went on
                     shore with me near the place where the disturbance had happened, with a view to
                     make another excursion into the interior parts of the country.
                           <persName>O-Whaw<ref target="#edn91">
                           <note xml:id="edn91" anchored="true"> See before, p. 412; and
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 83, 90, 91. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, the old man, who had on former occasions shewed his pacific
                     disposition, met us on the beach, and spoke of the offence of the last night
                     not without expressing some displeasure; but when we assured him that the
                     offenders were in irons, and would be severely punished, he seemed perfectly
                     satisfied. As we had nobody from the vessel to assist us, we desired
                        <persName>O-Whaw</persName> to point out a native whom we might entrust with
                     the botanizing apparatus. Several people having offered their services, he
                     chose a strong well-made man, who was immediately furnished with an empty bag,
                     for the reception of plants, and with some baskets full of Taheitee apples,
                     which we had purchased on the spot. We crossed
                        <placeName>One-tree-hill</placeName>, and descended into one of the first
                     vallies of <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>, where we were gratified with the
                     sight of one of the most beautiful trees in the world, which we called the
                     Barringtonia. It had a great abundance of flowers, larger than lilies and
                     perfectly white, excepting the tips of their numerous chives, which were of a
                     bright crimson. Such a quantity of these flowers were already dropped off, that
                     the ground underneath the tree was intirely strewed with them. The natives
                     called the tree <hi rend="italics">huddoo</hi>, and assured us that the
                     fruit, which is a large nut, when bruised, mixed up with some shell-fish, and
                     strewed into the sea, intoxicates or poisons the fish for some time, so that
                     they come to the surface of the water and suffer themselves to be taken with
                     the hands. It is singular that various maritime plants in tropical climates
                     have such a quality; the <hi rend="italics">cocculi indici</hi>, in
                     particular, are well known and used for that purpose in the
                        <placeName>East-Indies</placeName>. We were unwilling to defer the
                     examination of so remarkable a plant till after our return on board, and
                     therefore retired to a neat house, built up of reeds, round which several
                     odoriferous shrubs and some very fine coco-trees were planted. The owner, with
                     that hospitality which I have already often celebrated, sent a boy up one of
                     the tallest palms to procure us some of the nuts, which he performed with
                     surprizing agility. He tied a piece of the tough rind of a banana stalk to both
                     his feet, in such a manner that they could just encompass the tree on both
                     sides, the piece of rind serving as a sort of step or rest, whilst he lifted
                     himself higher with his hands. The natural growth of the coco-palm, which
                     annually forms a kind of elevated ring on the stem, certainly facilitated the
                     boy's ascent, but the quickness and ease with which he walked up and down were
                     really admirable. We should have ill deserved this mark of kindness and
                     attention if we had not made our host a little present at parting, and rewarded
                     the boy for the pleasure which we had felt in observing his dexterity.</p>

                  <p n="343">From hence we proceeded up the valley, which having no rivulet in its
                     middle, began to rise in proportion as we advanced. We resolved therefore to go
                     upon the steep hill on our left, and with much difficulty accomplished our
                     plan. Our Taheitian friend laughed at us, when he saw us faint with fatigue,
                     and sitting down every moment to recover our breath. We heard him blow or
                     breathe slowly but very hard, with open mouth, as he walked behind us; we
                     therefore tried the same experiment, which nature had probably taught him, and
                     found it answered much better than our short panting, which always deprived us
                     of breath. At last we reached the ridge of the hill, where a fine breeze
                     greatly refreshed us, after our fatiguing ascent. When we had walked upwards
                     along that ridge for some time, exposed to the burning rage of the sun,
                     reverberated from all parts of the barren soil, we sat down under the scanty
                     shade of a solitary <hi rend="italics">pandang</hi>, or palm-nut tree<ref target="#edn92">
                        <note xml:id="edn92" anchored="true"> Pandanus. Rumph. Herbar. Amboin. -
                              <hi rend="italics">Athrodactylis</hi>. Forst. Nov. Gen. Plantar. -
                              <hi rend="italics">Keura</hi>. Forskol. </note>
                     </ref>, which was at this time acceptable even to our friendly native. The
                     prospect from hence was delightful; the reef which surrounded
                        <placeName>O-Taheiotee</placeName>, the bay with the ships, and numerous
                     canoes, and the whole plain of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName> with its
                     beautiful objects, lay as it were under our feet, while the meridian sun threw
                     a steady and calm light on the whole landscape. At the distance of about six
                     leagues, the low island called <placeName>Tedhuroa</placeName>, appeared before
                     us, forming a little circular ledge of rocks, covered with a few palms; and far
                     beyond it the immense ocean bounded the view. The Taheitian who was with us,
                     pointed out the direction of all the neighbouring islands which were not in
                     sight at present, and informed us of their produce, whether they were high or
                     low, inhabited or only occasionally visited. <placeName>Tedhuroa</placeName>,
                     which we saw was of the last sort, and two canoes with their sails set, were at
                     that time returning from thence, where our guide informed us they often went to
                     catch fish in the lagoon. Having rested a little while, we advanced up towards
                     the interior mountains, which now appeared distinctly before us. The rich
                     groves which crowned their summits, and filled the vallies between them,
                     invited us to advance, and promised to reward our preseverance with a load of
                     new productions. But we soon perceived a number of barren hills and vallies
                     which lay between us and those desireable forests, and found it was in vain to
                     attempt to reach them this day. We consulted amongst ourselves, whether we
                     should venture to pass a night on these hills, but this was unadviseable, on
                     account of the uncertainty of the time when our ships were to sail, and
                     likewise impracticable for want of provisions. - Our Taheitian told us, we
                     should meet with no inhabitants, dwelling, or provisions on the mountains, and
                     pointed out a narrow path which led down the steep side of the hill into the
                     valley of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>. We began to descent therefore, but
                     found it more dangerous than when we came up: we stumbled every moment, and in
                     many places were obliged to slide down on our backs. Our shoes were rather a
                     disadvantage to us, being made extremely slippery by the dry grasses over which
                     we had walked, while the native with his bare feet was surprisingly surefooted.
                     In a short time we gave him our fowling-pieces, to enable us to make use of our
                     hands, and at last we resumed them again, and letting him go before, leaned on
                     his arm in the most difficult places. When we were about half-way down, he
                     hallooed very loud to some people whom he saw in the valley; but we did not
                     believe at that time that they had heard him, especially because he received no
                     answer. However, presently after we observed several people coming up towards
                     us, who ascended very fast, so as to meet us in about half an hour. They
                     brought us three fresh coco-nuts, which, whether they were really excellent in
                     their kind, or whether our great fatigue recommended them to our taste, we
                     looked upon as the best we had ever emptied. The natives bid us rest a while,
                     and told us that a little farther down they had left a number of coco-nuts,
                     which they would not bring up lest we should drink too hastily at first. Their
                     precaution was very laudable, but our thirst made us very impatient till they
                     would permit us to move forward. At last we set out, and coming on a more level
                     ground, entered a delicious little shrubbery, where we sat down in the fresh
                     grass, and indulged with the cool nectar which our friends had provided. This
                     draught enabled us to come down into the valley, where we were presently
                     surrounded by a croud of the natives, and prepared to return with them over the
                     plain to the sea-side; when a well-looking man, accompanied by his daughter, a
                     young girl about sixteen, invited us to his house, which lay farther up, where
                     he wished to entertain us with a dinner. Though we were much exhausted with
                     fatigue, we agreed not to disappoint him, and returned about two miles along
                     the delightful banks of the river Matavai, through groves of coco, bread-fruit,
                     apple, and cloth-trees, and numerous plantations of bananas and eddoes. The
                     river formed various windings in the valley from side to side, so that we were
                     obliged to cross it several times, and our new host with one of his servants
                     always insisted upon carrying us over on their backs. At last we arrived at his
                     house, which was situated on a little eminence, where the river gently murmured
                     over a bed of pebbles. An elegant mat was spread for us on the dry grass in a
                     corner of the house, which was of the closer sort, being walled in with reeds.
                     We were immediately surrounded by a great number of our friend's relations, who
                     seated themselves near us; and his daughter, who in elegance of form, clearness
                     of complexion, and agreeable features, equalled, if not surpassed the Taheitian
                     beauties we had hitherto seen, together with some of her young companions, were
                     very assiduous in their endeavours to be agreeable. The most efficacious remedy
                     they employed besides their smiles, to recover us from the great weariness
                     which we felt, was to chafe our arms and legs with their hands, squeezing the
                     muscles gently between the fingers and the palm. Whether this operation
                     facilitated the circulation of the blood through the minuter vessels, or
                     restored the over-strained muscles to their natural elasticity, I cannot
                     determine; but its effect was certainly so salutary, that our strength was
                     perfectly restored, and we did not feel the least remaining inconvenience from
                     the fatiguing journey of the day. <persName>Captain Wallis</persName> mentions
                     a similar instance of the excellence of this remedy, and of the beneficence of
                     the inhabitants of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName><ref target="#edn93">
                           <note xml:id="edn93" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. I. p. 463. </note>
                        </ref>
                     ; and <persName>Osbeck</persName>, in his voyage to
                        <placeName>China</placeName>, describes this operation as a common practice
                     among Chinese barbers, who are said to be very expert at it<ref target="#edn94">
                        <note xml:id="edn94" anchored="true"> See <persName>Osbeck's</persName> and
                              <persName>Torcen's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Voyages to China</hi>, vol. I. p. 231. and II. p.
                           246. </note>
                     </ref>. <persName>Mr. Grose</persName> too, in his voyage to the
                        <placeName>East Indies</placeName>, gives a very circumstantial account of
                     the art of <hi rend="italics">champing</hi>, which seems to be a luxurious
                     refinement upon this wholesome restorative. It deserves to be mentioned here,
                     that this ingenious author has given quotations from
                        <persName>Martial</persName> and <persName>Seneca</persName>, which make it
                     evident that the Romans were acquainted with this practice<ref target="#edn95">
                        <note xml:id="edn95" anchored="true"> See <persName>Grose's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Voyage</hi>, vol. I. p. 113. </note>
                     </ref>. </p>

                  <p n="344">
                     <q>
                        <l>Percurrit agili corpus arte tactatrix,</l>
                        <l>Manumque doctam spargit omnibus membris.</l>
                        <persName>Martial</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="345">We had no longer reason to complain of the want of appetite which had
                     been the consequence of our fatigue; but as soon as our dinner was placed
                     before us, consisting of vegetable food, suitable to the frugal simplicity of
                     the natives, we partook of it very heartily, and soon found ourselves in as
                     good spirits as we had set out with in the morning. We passed about two hours
                     with this hospitable family, and during that time distributed the greatest part
                     of the beads, nails, and knives which we had brought from the ship to our
                     generous host, to his fair daughter, and her companions, whose care had
                     restored our strength much sooner than we had a right to expect after so
                     laborious an expedition. About <time>three o'clock</time> we set out on our
                     return, and walked past numerous dwellings, whose inhabitants enjoyed the
                     beauty of the afternoon in various parties, under the shade of their
                     fruit-trees. In one of these houses we observed a man at work, in preparing a
                     red dye, for some cloth made of the bark of the paper-mulberry, which we
                     commonly called the cloth-tree. Upon enquiring for the materials which he made
                     use of, we found to our great surprize that the yellow juice of a small species
                     of fig, which they call mattee, and the greenish juice of a sort of fern, or
                     bind-weed, or of several other plants, by being simply mixed together, formed a
                     bright crimson, which the women rubbed with their hands if the whole piece was
                     to be uniformly of the same colour, or in which they dipped a bamboo reed, if
                     it was to be marked or sprinkled in different patterns. This colour fades very
                     soon and becomes of a dirty red, besides being liable to be spoiled by rain and
                     other accidents; the cloth, however, which is dyed or rather stained with it,
                     is highly valued by the Taheitians, and only worn by their principal people. We
                     bought several pieces of cloth of different kinds for beads and small nails,
                     and then walked on till we arrived at the tents, which stood at least five
                     miles from the place where we had dined. Here we discharged our trusty friend
                     whom <persName>O-Whaw</persName> had recommended, and who had behaved with a
                     degree of attachment and fidelity to us, which from the thievish character of
                     the nation we had no room to expect. This behaviour was the more meritorious as
                     our situation frequently had afforded him excellent opportunities of running
                     off with all our nails and knives, and with one of our fowling-pieces;
                     temptations which required an uncommon degree of honesty to withstand. We next
                     embarked in one of the canoes which plied between the ships and the shore, and
                     for a couple of beads were safely brought on board. Here we found the captain
                     and my father just returned from a long excursion to the westward.
                        <persName>E-Tee</persName>, the king's ambassador, who arrived on board
                     immediately after our departure, had brought a present of a hog and some fruit,
                     but acquainted the captain that <persName>O-Too</persName> was <hi rend="italics">matòw</hi>, a term which at once expressed that he was
                     afraid and displeased. To convince him that the outrages of last night were not
                     approved of, the offenders were brought to the gangway, and received a dozen of
                     lashes in his presence, to the great terror of all the Taheitians on board.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> then ordering three wether-sheep from the
                     Cape, which were all we had left, to be put in his boat, embarked with captain
                     Furneaux and my father, in order to regain the confidence of
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>, without which he knew that no provisions were to
                     be bought in the country. When they arrived at <placeName>Parre</placeName>,
                     they were told that he was gone to the westward; accordingly they went after
                     him, about four or five miles farther, and landing in a district called
                        <placeName>Tittahàh</placeName>, waited several hours for him there; his
                     fears having been so strong, as actually to make him remove about nine miles
                     farther from us than usual. There was something in this conduct seemingly too
                     much allied to cowardise; but we should likewise consider, that the power of
                     Europeans had formerly been displayed here in the terrific shape of
                     destruction. It was <time>three o'clock</time> in the afternoon before he
                     arrived with his mother; he expressing the most manifest signs of fear and
                     distrust, and she with her eyes swimming in tears. The report of
                        <persName>E-Tee</persName>, the present of a new kind of animals, and all
                     possible assurances of friendship on the part of our people, succeeded to quiet
                     their apprehensions. At the king's desire, the bagpiper was ordered to play
                     before him, and his performance produced an effect similar to that of
                        <persName>David's</persName> harp, whose harmonious sounds soothed the
                     atrabilarious temper of <persName>Saul</persName>. He sent for a hog, which was
                     presented to <persName>captain Cook</persName>; and soon after for another,
                     which he gave to <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>. The captains believing
                     this to be the last opportunity of obtaining presents from him, desired that a
                     third might be brought for <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Matarra</hi>
                     </persName> (my father's Taheitian name). A little pig was given him, at which
                     our people expressed some dislike; upon this, one of the king's relations, in
                     the ascending line, who are all styled <hi rend="italics">Medooa</hi>
                     (Father), stepped forward from the throng, and spoke very loud, with many
                     violent gestures, to <persName>O-Too</persName>, pointing at our people, at the
                     sheep they had presented, and at the little pig which they had received. As
                     soon as his speech was finished, the pig was taken back again, and after a
                     short interval a large hog brought in its stead. Our people then produced their
                     iron wares and a variety of trinkets, which they distributed very freely; and
                     in return were wrapped up in several <hi rend="italics">ahòws</hi>, or
                     pieces of Indian cloth. They then took their leave of the whole court, and
                     returned to their vessels about <time>five o'clock</time>.</p>

                  <p n="346">
                     <date>[1773. September.][Wednesday 1.]</date>Preparations were made for sailing
                     from this island the next morning, whilst the natives crouded about us with
                     fish, shells, fruit, and cloth, of which we purchased all that was to be had.
                        <persName>Lieutenant Pickersgill</persName> returned from his excursion to
                     the westward about three in the afternoon. He had advanced beyond the fertile
                     plains of <placeName>Paparra</placeName>, where <persName>O-Ammo<ref target="#edn96">
                           <note xml:id="edn96" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 153, 154. <hi rend="italics">Oamo</hi>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, who had once been the king of all Taheitee, resided with his son
                     the young T'-<hi rend="italics">Aree</hi> Derre<ref target="#edn97">
                        <note xml:id="edn97" anchored="true"> Ibid. vol. II. p. 154. <hi rend="italics">Terridirri</hi>. </note>
                     </ref>. He took up his first night's lodging on the borders of a small
                     district, which was now the property of the famous <persName>queen
                        O-Poorea</persName> (<persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Oberea</hi>
                     </persName>). As soon as she heard of his arrival she hastened to him, and met
                     her old acquaintance with repeated marks of friendship. She had separated from
                     her husband<ref target="#edn98">
                        <note xml:id="edn98" anchored="true"> Ibid. vol. II. p. 154. </note>
                     </ref> some time after the departure of <persName>captain Wallis</persName>,
                     and was now entirely deprived of that greatness which had once rendered her
                     conspicuous in story, and august in the eyes of Europeans<ref target="#edn99">
                        <note xml:id="edn99" anchored="true"> Ibid. vol. II. p. 106. </note>
                     </ref>. The civil wars between the two peninsulas of the island had stripped
                     her, as well as the whole district of <placeName>Paparra</placeName>, of the
                     greatest part of her wealth, so that she complained to the lieutenant that she
                     was poor, (<hi rend="italics">teètee</hi>), and had not a hog to give her
                     friends. The next morning therefore they left her, and in their return touched
                     at <placeName>Paparra</placeName>, where they saw <persName>Ammo</persName>,
                     who, after parting with <persName>O-Poorea</persName>, had taken one of the
                     handsomest young women of the country to his bed, and appeared to be aged and
                     indolent. His fair one gave a hog to our people, and, with some of her female
                     attendants, stepped into the boat at their departure, and went the whole day
                     with them, her own canoe attending to take her back again. On this excursion
                     she expressed a great degree of curiosity, which seemed never to have been
                     gratified before by the sight of Europeans, insomuch that she was doubtful
                     whether they were formed at all points like her own country-men, till her eyes
                     removed every doubt. With her they landed at <placeName>Attahooroo</placeName>,
                     where a chief named <persName>Potatow<ref target="#edn100">
                           <note xml:id="edn100" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 170. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName> received them very cordially, and entertained them at his own house
                     during the second night. He too had parted with his wife <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Polatehèra,</hi>
                     </persName> and taken a younger to his bed, while the lady had provided herself
                     with a lover or a husband, and they all continued to live very peaceably in the
                     same family. The next morning at parting Potatow promised to accompany
                        <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> to <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>, in
                     order to visit captain Cook, provided he might be sure of good treatment.
                        <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> assured him of the best reception; but
                     the chief, for greater safety, produced a few small yellow feathers, tied
                     together into a little tuft, which he desired <persName>Mr.
                        Pickersgill</persName> to hold, whilst he repeated his promise, " that <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Toòte</hi>
                     </persName> (<persName>captain Cook</persName>) would be the friend of
                        <persName>Potatow</persName>." This done, he carefully wrapped the feathers
                     into a bit of Indian cloth, and put it in his turban. We knew, from former
                     accounts, that red and yellow feathers were employed by the inhabitants of this
                     island to fix their attention while they prayed to the Deity; but this ceremony
                     conveyed an idea of a solemn affirmation or oath, which was quite new to us.
                        <persName>Potatow</persName> was so well satisfied of the integrity of his
                     friends, after this ceremony, that he and his wives, and several of their
                     attendants, carrying with them two hogs and abundance of cloth, marched towards
                     the boat, amidst an immense croud of people. He was, however, no sooner arrived
                     at the water's side, than the whole multitude eagerly pressed him not to
                     venture amongst our people, and clinging to his feet endeavoured to hold him
                     back; several women, with a flood of tears, repeatedly cried aloud that
                        <persName>Toote</persName> would kill him as soon as he came on board; and
                     an old man, who, by living at the chief's own house, seemed to be a faithful
                     servant to the family, drew him back by the skirts of his garment.
                        <persName>Potatow</persName> was moved; for a moment he expressed some marks
                     of diffidence; but instantly arming himself with all the resolution he was
                     master of, he thrust the old man aside, exclaiming " <hi rend="italics">
                        <persName>Toote</persName> aipa</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">matte te tayo</hi>" , (<persName>Cook</persName> will not
                     kill his friends!) and stepped into the boat with an air of undaunted majesty,
                     that struck our Britons with astonishment. As soon as he was on board the ship,
                     he descended into the cabin, accompanied by his wife <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Whainee-òw</hi>
                     </persName>, his former wife, and her friend, and brought his presents to
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>. <persName>Potatow</persName> was one of
                     the tallest men we had seen upon the island, and his features were so mild,
                     comely, and at the same time majestic, that <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>
                     immediately applied himself to copy from them, as from the noblest models of
                     nature. His portrait is inserted in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> own
                     account of this voyage. His whole body was remarkably strong and heavily built,
                     so that one of his thighs nearly equalled in girth our stoutest sailor's waist.
                     His ample garments, and his elegant white turban, set off his figure to the
                     greatest advantage, and his noble deportment endeared him to us, as we
                     naturally compared it with the diffidence of <persName>O-Too</persName>.
                        <persName>Polatehera</persName>, his former wife, was so like him in stature
                     and bulk, that we unanimously looked upon her as the most extraordinary woman
                     we had ever seen. Her appearance and her conduct were masculine in the highest
                     degree, and strongly conveyed the idea of superiority and command. When the
                     Endeavour bark lay here, she had distinguished herself by the name of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> sister, (<hi rend="italics">tuaheine</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">no</hi>
                     <persName>Toote</persName>); and one day, being denied admittance into the fort
                     on <placeName>Point Venus</placeName>, had knocked down the sentry who opposed
                     her, and complained to her adopted brother of the indignity which had been
                     offered to her. After a short stay, being told that we intended to get under
                     way immediately, they asked, with every demonstration of friendship and with
                     tears in their eyes, whether we intended to return. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> promised to be here again in the space of seven months, with
                     which they rested perfectly satisfied, and departed immediately to the
                     westward, their own canoes having followed our boat all the way.</p>

                  <p n="347">In the mean while a young Taheitian, of the common class, who was very
                     well made, and about seventeen years old, having talked to the captain of going
                        <hi rend="italics">no te</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">whennua tei Bretane</hi>, (to the land of
                        <placeName>Britain</placeName>), for several days past, had arrived on board
                     with his father. His whole equipment consisted of a small piece of the Indian
                     cloth wrapped about his loins; so entirely did he depend upon our care and
                     protection. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> gave his father, who seemed to be
                     a middle aged man, a hatchet and some presents of lesser value, with which he
                     descended into his canoe with great composure and firmness, without manifesting
                     any signs of grief. We had scarce cleared the reefs, when a canoe arrived with
                     two or three natives, who demanded the youth back in the name of
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>, and shewed some pieces of cloth which they
                     intended as presents to the captain: but as they could not produce the
                     iron-work which he had bestowed on the poor fellow's account, they were obliged
                     to return without him. The youth, whose name was <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Porèa</hi>
                     </persName>, spoke to them, but would not leave us, though, to terrify him, we
                     understood that they presaged his death amongst us. However, when they were at
                     some distance, he looked wishfully after them, leaned over the railing on the
                     quarter-deck, and shed a flood of tears in an agony of grief. To divert him
                     from his gloomy mood, we took him into the cabin, where he complained that he
                     must surely die, and that his father would weep for his loss. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> and my father comforted him, saying <hi rend="italics">they</hi> would be his fathers, upon which he hugged and kissed them, and
                     passed from the extreme of despondence by a quick transition to a great degree
                     of chearfulness. About sun-set he ate his supper, and lay down on the floor of
                     the cabin; but seeing that we did not follow his example, he got up again, and
                     remained with us till we had supped.</p>

                  <p n="348">It was with great regret that we daparted from this delightful island,
                     at a time when we were just become acquainted with its happy inhabitants. We
                     had only passed fourteen days on its coast, two of which had been spent in
                     removing from one port to the other. During this short space of time, we had
                     lived in a continual round of tumultuous occupations, which had left us little
                     leisure to study the nature of the people. An immense variety of objects
                     relative to their œconomy, their customs and ceremonies, all which appeared new
                     and interesting to us, had engaged our attention; but we afterwards found most
                     of them had been observed by former navigators. These therefore, for fear of
                     presuming too far on the indulgence of my readers, I have omitted in this
                     narrative, and refer for the particular descriptions of the dwellings, dress,
                     food, domestic amusements, boats and navigation, diseases, religion, and
                     funeral rites, wars, weapons, and government, to the history of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> voyage in the Endeavour bark, compiled
                     by <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth</persName> (vol. II. from page 184 to page 248).
                     All the merit of the preceding pages concerning the isle of Taheitee, must
                     therefore consist in a few gleanings and elucidations on several subjects.
                     However, I am in hopes that the particular point of view in which I have
                     beheld, and consequently represented circumstances already familiar to the
                     reader from former accounts, will not prove uninteresting, and may in several
                     instances suggest new and valuable reflections.</p>

                  <p n="349">The breeze with which we sailed was so moderate, that we continued near
                     the shore the whole evening, and were able to distinguish the exuberant scenery
                     of the plain, beautiful enough, even at this dead season of winter, to vie with
                     the richest landscapes, which nature has lavished on different parts of the
                     globe. Its fertile soil, and genial climate, which produces all sorts of
                     nutritive vegetables almost spontaneously, insures the felicity of its
                     inhabitants. Allowing for the imperfect state of sublunary happiness, which is
                     comparative at best, there are not, I believe, many nations existing whose
                     situation is so desirable. Where the means of subsistence are so easy, and the
                     wants of the people so few, it is natural that the great purpose of human life,
                     that of multiplying the number of rational beings, is not loaded with that
                     multitude of miseries which are attendant upon the married state in civilized
                     countries. The impulses of nature are therefore followed without restraint, and
                     the consequence is a great population, in proportion to the small part of the
                     island which is cultivated. The plains and narrow vallies are now the only
                     inhabited parts, though many of the hills are very fit for culture, and capable
                     of supporting an infinite number of people. Perhaps, in course of time, if the
                     population should encrease considerably, the natives may have recourse to these
                     parts, which are now in a manner useless and superfluous. The evident
                     distinction of ranks which subsists at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, does
                     not so materially affect the felicity of the nation, as we might have supposed.
                     Under one general sovereign, the people are distinguished into the classes of
                     aree, manahoùna, and towtow, which bear some distant relation to those of the
                     feudal systems of <placeName>Europe</placeName>. The simplicity of their whole
                     life contributes to soften these distinctions, and to reduce them to a level.
                     Where the climate and the custom of the country do not absolutely require a
                     perfect garment; where it is easy at every step to gather as many plants as
                     form not only a decent, but likewise a customary covering; and where all the
                     necessaries of life are within the reach of every individual, at the expence of
                     a trifling labour, ambition and envy must in a greater measure be unknown. It
                     is true, the higher classes of people possess some dainty articles, such as
                     pork, fish, fowl, and cloth almost exclusively; but the desire of indulging the
                     appetite in a few trifling luxuries, can at most render individuals, and not
                     whole nations, unhappy. Absolute want occasions the miseries of the lower class
                     in some civilized states, and is the result of the unbounded voluptuousness of
                     their superiors. At <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName> there is not, in general,
                     that disparity between the highest and the meanest man, which subsists in
                        <placeName>England</placeName> between a reputable tradesman and a labourer.
                     The affection of the Taheitians for their chiefs, which they never failed to
                     express upon all occasions, gave us great room to suppose that they consider
                     themselves as one family, and respect their eldest-born in the persons of their
                     chiefs. Perhaps the origin of their government was patriarchal, and the king
                     might only be dignified by virtue of being considered as the father of his
                     people, till by degrees the constitutions settled into its present form. Still
                     there remains much ancient simplicity in that familiarity between the sovereign
                     and the subject. The lowest man in the nation speaks as freely with his king as
                     with his equal, and has the pleasure of seeing him as often as he likes. This
                     intercourse would become more difficult as soon as despotism should begin to
                     gain ground. The king at times amuses himself with the occupations of his
                     subjects, and not yet depraved by the false notions of an empty state, often
                     paddles his own canoe, without thinking such an employment derogatory to his
                     dignity. How long such an happy equality may last, is uncertain; since the
                     indolence of the chiefs is already, notwithstanding the exuberant fertility of
                     the soil, a step towards its destruction. Though cultivation is a labour scarce
                     felt at present by the towtows, to whom it is allotted; yet by insensible
                     degrees it will fall heavier upon them, as the number of chiefs must naturally
                     increase in a much greater proportion, than their own class, for this obvious
                     reason, because the chiefs are perfectly unemployed. This addition of labour
                     will have a bad effect on their bodies, they will grow ill-shaped, and their
                     bones become marrowless: their greater exposure to the action of a vertical
                     sun, will blacken their skins, and they will dwindle away to dwarfs, by the
                     more frequent prostitution of their infant daughters, to the voluptuous
                     pleasures of the great. That pampered race, on the contrary, will preserve all
                     the advantages of an extraordinary size, of a superior elegance of form and
                     features, and of a purer colour, by indulging a voracious appetite, and living
                     in absolute idleness. At last the common people will perceive these grievances,
                     and the causes which produced them; and a proper sense of the general rights of
                     mankind awaking in them, will bring on a revolution. This is the natural circle
                     of human affairs; at present there is fortunately no room to suppose, that such
                     a change will take place for a long series of years to come; but how much the
                     introduction of foreign luxuries may hasten that fatal period, cannot be too
                     frequently repeated to Europeans. If the knowledge of a few individuals can
                     only be acquired at such a price as the happiness of nations, it were better
                     for the discoverers, and the discovered, that the South Sea had still remained
                     unknown to <placeName>Europe</placeName> and its restless inhabitants.</p>

                  <p n="350"> ;</p>

                  <p n="351"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="10" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. X.<lb/>
                     Account of our Transactions at the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="352">
                     <date>[1773. September.]</date>THE wind with which we sailed from
                        <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>, freshened after sun-set, and favoured our
                     departure from that happy island, which we still discerned by moonlight.</p>

                  <p n="353">
                     <date>[Thursday 2.]</date>The next day, at <time>eleven o'clock</time>, we saw
                     the isle of <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, which is about twenty-five leagues
                     from <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and was first discovered by
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, on the 11th of July, 1769. A number of
                     our people now felt the effects of their intercourse with the women at
                        <placeName>Matavaï Bay</placeName>, and had symptoms of a disagreeable
                     complaint. All the patients, however, without exception, had this disease only
                     in a very slight and benign degree. The question which has been agitated
                     between the French and English navigators, concerning the first introduction of
                     this evil to <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, might be decided very favourably
                     for them both, by supposing the disease to have existed at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> previous to their arrival. The argument,
                     that none of <placeName>captain Wallis's</placeName> people received the
                     infection, does not seem to controvert this supposition, but only proves, that
                     the women, who prostituted themselves to his crew, were free from it: which was
                     perhaps owing to a precaution of the natives, who might be apprehensive of
                     exposing themselves to the anger of the strangers, by conferring such a
                     desperate gift upon them<ref target="#edn101">
                        <note xml:id="edn101" anchored="true"> See <persName>M. de
                              Bougainville's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Voyage</hi>, English Edition, pag. 273, 274, 285,
                           286. and <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. I. p. 489, 490. and vol.
                           II. p. 232. M. de Bougainville, with the politeness of a well-bred man,
                           doubts, whether the disease existed at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>
                           previous to his arrival or not; the English seaman asserts his opinion as
                           fact in positive terms. </note>
                     </ref>. We heard, however, of another disease of a different nature, whilst we
                     staid upon the island; and which they called <hi rend="italics">o-pay-no-Peppe</hi>, (the sore of Peppe), adding, that it was brought by
                     the ship which they designed by that name, and which, according to different
                     accounts, had either been two, three, or five months before us at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. By the account of the symptoms, it seemed
                     to be a kind of leprosy. Nothing is more easy than to imagine, how the
                     strangers (Spaniards), who visited <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> in that
                     ship, might be innocently charged with introducing that disease. In order to
                     give rise to a general error of this sort, it is sufficient that it broke out
                     nearly about the time of their arrival, and that some distant connections
                     between them and the persons affected, could be traced. This is the more
                     probably, as it is certain, that there are several sorts of leperous complaints
                     existing among the inhabitants, such as the elephantiasis, which resembles the
                     yaws; also an eruption of the whole skin, and lastly a monstrous rotting ulcer,
                     of a most loathsome appearance. However, all these very seldom occur, and
                     especially the last; for the excellence of their climate, and the simplicity of
                     their vegetable food, which cannot be too much extolled, prevent not only
                     these, but almost all dangerous and deadly disorders.</p>

                  <p n="354">
                     <date>[Friday 3.]</date>Towards sun-set we brought to within two leagues of
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>; and the next day, at <time>four
                        o'clock</time>, doubled the north end of that island, and then bore up for
                     the harbour of <placeName>O-Wharre</placeName>. <placeName>Huahine</placeName>
                     is divided by a deep inlet into two peninsulas, connected by an isthmus
                     entirely overflowed at high-water. Its hills are much inferior to those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> in height, but their appearance strongly
                     indicated them as the former seats of a volcano. The summit of one of them had
                     much the appearance of a crater, and a blackish spungy rock was seen on one of
                     its sides, which seemed to be lava. At sun-rise we beheld some of the other
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>, called <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">O-Raietea</hi>
                     </placeName> (<placeName>Ulietea</placeName>), <hi rend="italics">O-Taha</hi>, and <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Borabora</hi>
                     </placeName> (<placeName>Bolabola</placeName>. The last forms a peak like
                     Maâtea, but infinitely higher and more considerable, on the top of which there
                     appeared also the crater of a volcano. There are two entrances to
                        <placeName>O-Wharre harbour</placeName>; of these we chose the southermost,
                     and having a very steady breeze off shore, our navigators tried their skill in
                     working in. The entrance might be about three or four hundred yards long, and
                     barely a hundred yards wide between two reefs. However in this space we made
                     six or seven trips with amazing dexterity, each trip lasting about two or three
                     minutes. We had not yet worked in, when the Adventure came in after us, but
                     unfortunately approached too near one of the reefs, just as she was putting
                     about, and leaned on the side of the coral rock. We were for the present intent
                     only in saving our own ship for fear of the worst that might happen, and soon
                     after came to an anchor. As soon as that was done, our boats were dispatched to
                     the assistance of our consort, and she was towed into the harbour. Her bottom
                     being examined, it was found that she had suffered no damage, which was
                     likewise the case with the Resolution, when she struck on the coast of
                        <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="355">The appearance of the country was exactly the same here as at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but upon a much smaller scale; the
                     circumference of the whole isle being only about seven or eight leagues. The
                     plains are therefore very inconsiderable, and there are hardly any intermediate
                     hills between them and the higher mountains, which take their rise immediately
                     from the skirts of the plain. The country, however, contained a variety of
                     pleasant little spots. Not a single canoe came off to us here beyond the reefs,
                     but we had not been long at anchor before a few of them arrived loaded with
                     coco-nuts, bread-fruit, and large fowls. We were very glad to meet with these
                     birds, having obtained only a single pair at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>,
                     where they had been entirely swept away by former navigators. Amongst the
                     natives who came on board, there was one who had a monstrous rupture or hernia,
                     which did not seem to incumber him much, as he came up the sides of the ship
                     with great agility. The natives spoke the same language, had the same features,
                     and wore the same cloth, made of bark, as those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; but none of their women appeared. They
                     bartered very fairly for our beads and nails, and in a little time had sold us
                     a dozen of very large cocks, of a beautiful plumage; but it may be remarked,
                     that they seldom brought the hens for sale. Towards <time>eleven o'clock</time>
                     the captains went on shore to a large shed, of which the sides reached to the
                     ground, and which gave shelter to a double canoe. Here they appointed a person
                     to trade with the natives, which they did so regularly that we collected
                     upwards of twenty hogs this day for large spike nails or small hatchets, and
                     about a dozen of dogs, which seemed to be the most stupid animals of their
                     kind, but were reckoned excellent provision by the natives. During our first
                     walk we found two plants which we had not seen before; and we took notice that
                     all the bread-trees in that part had already young fruit, of the size of small
                     apples, which, as the natives said, would not be ripe in less than four months.
                     The district where we landed seemed to be entirely destitute of bananas; the
                     natives, however, brought us some bunches of this fruit from other parts, which
                     proves that they have the art of managing some of their plantations so as to
                     produce at different seasons; but these late crops are, as may be easily
                     conceived, very trifling in quantity, and reserved for the luxury of their
                     chiefs.</p>

                  <p n="356">We returned on board to dinner, and afterwards made another excursion
                     on shore, where we were told, that the chiefs of the island would make their
                     appearance the next day. We were not much incommoded by the inhabitants on our
                     rambles, our train seldom exceeding fifteen or twenty, except near a place of
                     general resort, such as the shed where our trade was carried on. The smallness
                     of the island might be the principal cause of the difference from what we had
                     experienced at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; but it must be added, that the
                     natives here were not well enough acquainted with our disposition to expect to
                     reap any advantage from following us; and did not, upon the whole, express that
                     degree of curiosity, nor of fear, which was inherent in the Taheitians, who had
                     had sufficient cause to dread the superior power of our fire-arms.</p>

                  <p n="357">Our Taheitian friend <persName>Porea</persName> went ashore with us in
                     a linen frock and a pair of trowsers, and carried <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> powder-horn and shot-pouch. He told us that he was
                     desirous to be looked upon as one of our people, and therefore never spoke the
                     Taheitian language, but continued to mutter some unintelligible sounds, which
                     actually imposed upon the multitude. To favour the illusion, he would no longer
                     hearken to his Taheitian name <persName>Porea</persName>, but desired to have
                     an English one; the sailors immediately called him <persName>Tom</persName>,
                     with which he was extremely well pleased, and soon learnt the usual answer of
                     Sir, which he expressed Yorro. What aim he proposed to himself in assuming this
                     disguise, we could not conceive, unless it was, that he expected to have
                     greater consequence in the character of an English sailor, than that of a
                     Taheitian towtow.</p>

                  <p n="358">The next day my father accompanied the captains to the trading-place,
                     and from thence to the north part of the harbour, where they found the acting
                     chief, <persName>Oree</persName>, who was the uncle of the present
                        <persName>king Territarea</persName> (perhaps
                        <persName>T'-Aree-Tarea</persName>). They put ashore near a house on the
                     waterside, where <persName>Oree</persName> was seated amidst a number of his
                     attendants. Two of the natives who were in the boat, seeing our gentlemen
                     preparing to land, desired them to sit still a while, till they had brought
                     some plantane-stems, in sign of peace and friendship. They presented two of
                     these to our people, and desired them to ornament them with large nails,
                     looking-glasses, medals, &amp;c. This request being complied with, the stems
                     thus loaded were brought on shore and presented, whilst they bid our people
                     pronounce to the first <hi rend="italics">no t'Eatua</hi>, " for the
                     Divinity," and to the second, <hi rend="italics">na te tayo O-Toote no
                        Oree</hi>, " from the friend, <persName>Cook</persName>, to
                        <persName>Oree</persName>." This done, our people received in their turn
                     five plantane-stalks successively under the following denominations.</p>

                  <p n="359">1. The first, accompanied with a pig, <hi rend="italics">no
                        t'Aree</hi> " from the king," (meaning T'aree-tarea who was a boy about
                     seven or eight years old).</p>

                  <p n="360">2. The second, with another pig, <hi rend="italics">no t'Eatua</hi>,
                     " for the divinity." </p>

                  <p n="361">3. The third, <hi rend="italics">no te Toimoe</hi>. This term was
                     entirely unintelligible to our people at that time, but it appeared from
                     subsequent explanations, to signify " a welcome." </p>

                  <p n="362">4. The fourth with a dog, <hi rend="italics">no te Toura</hi>, "
                     from the rope." Here, though the words were understood, the meaning was, if
                     possible, more obscure than in the preceding article, and what is worse, we
                     could never obtain any light upon the subject.</p>

                  <p n="363">5. The last with a pig, <hi rend="italics">na te tayo O-Oree no
                        Toote</hi>, " from the friend <persName>Oree</persName> to
                        <persName>Cook</persName>." </p>

                  <p n="364">To conclude this ceremony, the same man who brought all these things,
                     likewise presented a red bag, containing a piece of pewter with this
                     inscription, " His Britannic Majesty's ship, Endeavour. <persName>Lieutenant
                        Cook</persName> commander, 16th of July 1769.
                     <placeName>Huahine</placeName>," together with a counter<ref target="#edn102">
                        <note xml:id="edn102" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 253. </note>
                     </ref>. This testimony of <persName>captain Cook's</persName> first visit to
                     the island of <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, which he had left to
                        <persName>Oree</persName> with an injunction never to part with it, was
                     probably laid before him at present, to shew that his directions had been
                     strictly adhered to. As soon as he had received it, he stepped ashore with all
                     his company, and embraced <persName>Oree</persName>, who was an old man between
                     fifty and sixty, thin, and very blear-eyed. He received our people very
                     cordially as known friends, and presented several large bales of cloth to the
                     captain; after which the inhabitants flocked in great numbers to his house,
                     with abundance of fowls, hogs, and dogs, which they eagerly sold for the
                     trifling consideration of nails, knives, and small hatchets.</p>

                  <p n="365">In the mean while <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and myself, after
                     landing at the trading-place, proceeded to <persName>Oree's</persName> house by
                     land. On this walk we saw great numbers of hogs, dogs, and fowls. The last
                     roamed about at pleasure through the woods, and roosted on fruit-trees; the
                     hogs were likewise allowed to run about, but received regular portions of food,
                     which were commonly distributed by old women. We observed one of them in
                     particular, feeding a little pig with the sour fermented bread-fruit paste,
                     called mahei; she held the pig with one hand, and offered it a tough pork's
                     skin, but as soon as it opened the mouth to snap at it, she contrived to throw
                     a handful of the sour paste in, which the little animal would not take without
                     this stratagem. The dogs in spite of their stupidity, were in high favour with
                     all the women, who could not have nursed them with a more ridiculous affection,
                     if they had really been ladies of fashion in <placeName>Europe</placeName>. We
                     were witnesses of a remarkable instance of kindness, when we saw a middle aged
                     woman, whose breasts were full of milk, offering them to a little puppy which
                     had been trained up to suck them. We were so much surprised at this sight, that
                     we could not help expressing our dislike of it; but she smiled at our
                     observation, and added, that she suffered little pigs to do the same service.
                     Upon enquiry however, we found that she had lost her child, and did her the
                     justice amongst ourselves to acknowledge that this expedient was very innocent
                     and formerly practised in <placeName>Europe<ref target="#edn103">
                           <note xml:id="edn103" anchored="true"> The Indian women in
                                 <placeName>America</placeName>, whose milk is remarkably abundant,
                              have frequent recourse to this expedient to drain their breasts. See
                              the Canon Pauw's <hi rend="italics">Recherches Philosophiques sur les
                                 Americains</hi>, vol. I. p. 55. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. The dogs of all these islands were short, and their sizes vary
                     from that of a lap-dog to the largest spaniel. Their head is broad, the snout
                     pointed, the eyes very small, the ears upright, and their hair rather long,
                     lank, hard, and of different colours, but most commonly white and brown. They
                     seldom if ever barked, but howled sometimes, and were shy of strangers to a
                     degree of aversion.</p>

                  <p n="366">We met with some of the birds here, which we had already seen at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and also a blue white-bellied king's-fisher,
                     and a greyish heron. We shot some of each sort, but found a number of people
                     among the croud, who annexed an idea of holiness to these birds, and called
                     them eatooas, which is the same name by which they design God. There were
                     however at all times, at least an equal, if not greater number of people who
                     desired us to shoot them, and were very ready to point them out. Neither did
                     any of them express a mark of disapprobation after we had killed the birds. It
                     is certain that they do not look upon them as divinities, because these
                     according to their ideas are invisible; but the name of eatooa which they
                     bestow on them, seems to convey an idea of a much greater veneration, than that
                     which protects swallows and other birds in England, against the mischievous
                     pursuit of unlucky boys. Here and in many other circumstances relative to
                     civil, political, and religious institutions, we are entirely at a loss; and on
                     account of our short continuance among these islanders, as well as for want of
                     knowing their language, could never obtain any satisfactory information.</p>

                  <p n="367">With the acquisitions which we had made, we continued our excursion to
                     the northern arm of the harbour, where <persName>Mr. Smith</persName>, one of
                     our mates, superintended the waterers. We found a number of natives assembled
                     about him, who brought so many hogs for sale, that we were plentifully supplied
                     with fresh meat, and could serve it every day to both ships companies.
                     Vegetables on the other hand were so scarce here, that we rarely got plantanes,
                     bread-fruit, and coco-nuts, but contented ourselves with some good yams, which
                     when boiled supplied the place of bread. Towards noon we reached
                        <persName>Oree's</persName> house, after walking along a beach of small
                     white shell sand, amidst a low kind of coco-palms, affording a good deal of
                     shade, which is always acceptable in these climates. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> had been more successful in trading than all the other
                     parties, so that when we returned into the boat, we had scarce room enough to
                     fit in it. In the afternoon we returned to <persName>Oree's</persName> house,
                     where we found him surrounded by a great number of the principal people of the
                     island. They appeared to be so exactly like the Taheitians, that we could
                     perceive no difference, nor could we by any means verify that assertion of
                     former navigators, that the women of this island were in general fairer and
                     more handsome<ref target="#edn104">
                        <note xml:id="edn104" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 254. </note>
                     </ref>; but this may vary according to circumstances. They were however not so
                     troublesome in begging for beads and other presents, nor so forward to bestow
                     their favours on the new comers, though at our landing and putting off, some of
                     the common sort frequently performed an indecent ceremony, which is described
                     in the accounts of former voyagers, but without any of the preparatory
                     circumstances which <persName>Ooratooa</persName> had practised<ref target="#edn105">
                        <note xml:id="edn105" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 125. See also vol. I. p. 438, 440. They lifted up their
                           garments from the knee to the waist. </note>
                     </ref>. We had likewise much less reason to extol the hospitality of the
                     inhabitants, their general behaviour being rather more indifferent, and the
                     Taheitian custom of reciprocal presents almost entirely unknown. On our walks
                     we were unmolested, but their conduct was bolder and more unconcerned than that
                     of the Taheitians, and the explosion, as well as the effects of our
                     fowling-pieces did not strike them with fear and astonishment. These
                     differences were certainly owing to the various treatment which the people of
                     both islands had met with on the part of Europeans. There were, however, not
                     wanting instances of hospitality and good-will even here. A chief, named <hi rend="italics">Townùa</hi>, entreated my father to come to his house, which
                     lay in the interior part of the plain. He accepted the invitation, and was very
                     well entertained; besides having an opportunity of purchasing one of those
                     targets or breast-plates which I have already mentioned.</p>

                  <p n="368">
                     <date>[Sunday 5.]</date>
                     <persName>Oree</persName> came on board early the next morning with his sons,
                     the eldest of them a handsome little boy, about eleven years old, who received
                     our presents with great indifference; but he, as well as all the people of the
                     island, were highly delighted with the bagpipe, and required it to be
                     constantly played. With <persName>Oree</persName> who now went by the name of
                        <persName>Cookee</persName>, as he had done whilst the Endeavour lay
                        here<ref target="#edn106">
                        <note xml:id="edn106" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 251. </note>
                     </ref>, we returned on shore, where we dispersed in search of plants and other
                     curiosities. In the evening we all met together again, when <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, who had been entirely by himself towards the north
                     point of the isle, acquainted us that he had met with a large lagoon of
                     salt-water, which extended several miles parallel to the coast, and had an
                     intolerable stench on account of putrid mud which lay on its shores. Here he
                     had met with several plants, which are common enough in the isles and coasts of
                     the <placeName>East Indies</placeName>, but not so frequent in other parts of
                     the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> islands. A single native, whom he had
                     entrusted with his plant-bag, had proved extremely faithful to him. Whenever
                     the doctor sat down to describe, the native seated himself behind him, and took
                     both the skirts of his coat, containing his pockets, in his hand, in order, as
                     he said, to prevent the thieves from coming at them. By this means the doctor
                     had not lost any thing when he came on board; several of the natives, however,
                     seeming to think him in their power, had bestowed upon him some ill-natured
                     looks and opprobrious names.</p>

                  <p n="369">The next day he ventured out again entirely by himself, while we
                     remained at the trading-place with <persName>captain Cook</persName>. One of
                     the natives, named <persName>Tubaï</persName>, a tall man, dressed in several
                     large pieces of the cloth of bark, stained with red, and who had several
                     bundles of birds feathers hanging at his girdle, prohibited the sale of hogs
                     and bread-fruit, and actually seized a bag of nails which the captain's clerk
                     held in his hand. However, when the latter called for assistance, he let it go
                     again, and perceiving one of our young gentlemen trying to strike a bargain for
                     a large fowl, he took a nail from him by force, and threatened to beat him with
                     his club. A complaint being made to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, just as
                     he was going aboard in a boat, he returned ashore, and bid
                        <persName>Tubaï</persName> to leave the place. Upon his refusal, the captain
                     went up to him and seized two large clubs which the native had in his hand; but
                     the latter struggled with him, till <persName>captain Cook</persName> drew his
                     hanger, on which he made off. The clubs, which were made of the casuarina wood,
                     were broken and the pieces thrown into the sea, by the captain's order, while
                     he recalled the rest of the natives, who began to be alarmed, and were
                     preparing to leave the trading-place. They all agreed that this
                        <persName>Tubaï</persName> was a bad man, (<hi rend="italics">tata-eeno</hi>), and seemed to think that we had done him justice.
                     However, as <persName>captain Cook</persName> was going to send his boat on
                     board for a party of marines to protect our traders, the whole croud dispersed
                     at once and left us alone. We had not been above two minutes at a loss to
                     account for their behaviour, when <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> arrived
                     almost stripped naked, and with the marks of several violent blows. He had been
                     accosted on his walk by two of the natives, who had invited him to proceed
                     farther into the country, with many protestations of friendship, and
                     repetitions of the word <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi>. At once, taking the
                     advantage of an unguarded moment, they tore from his side a hanger, the only
                     weapon he had, and gave him a blow over his head as he was stooping to arm
                     himself with a stone. He stumbled, and they tore a black satin waistcoat and
                     several loose parts of dress from him. However, disengaging himself, he ran
                     towards the beach and outstripped them, when some bind-weeds caught his feet,
                     and detained him till the villains came up. They gave him repeated blows over
                     his temples and shoulders, which stunned him; stripped his shirt over his head,
                     and were just preparing to cut his hands, because the sleeve-buttons held the
                     shirt, when he fortunately opened them with his teeth, and they made off with
                     their booty. Not above fifty yards farther on, some natives were at dinner,
                     who, seeing him passing by, came out and invited him to stop, but he hurried on
                     towards the sea. In his way, however, he met two natives, who immediately took
                     off their own cloth, (<hi rend="italics">ahòw</hi>), dressed him in it, and
                     attended him to the trading-place. These honest people were rewarded to the
                     best of our power with various presents, and we all hurried on board to
                     reinforce our party. <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> being dressed again,
                     accompanied us to <persName>Oree's</persName> house to whom we made our
                     complaint. The old chief immediately resolved to assist <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> in the search after the thieves, but his noble resolution
                     filled all his relations with terror. Upwards of fifty people of both sexes
                     began to weep when he stepped into the boat; some with the most pathetic and
                     moving gestures tried to dissuade him; and others held him back and embraced
                     him; but he was not to be prevailed upon, and went off with us, saying, that he
                     had nothing to apprehend, because he was not the guilty person. My father
                     offered to remain on shore as an hostage, but he would not admit of it, and
                     took only one of his relations in the boat with him. We rowed up a deep creek
                     opposite the ships, where this villainy had been committed, and afterwards took
                     a long walk into the country to no purpose; for all <persName>Oree's</persName>
                     messengers, who were sent to apprehend the robbers, did not perform their duty.
                     At last we returned to the boat, where Oree reembarked with us, notwithstanding
                     the tears of an old lady and of her handsome daughter. The young woman, in a
                     fit of frantic grief, took up some shells and cut herself on the head with
                     them, but her mother tore them out of her hands, and actually accompanied
                        <persName>Oree</persName> to the ship. Here he dined with us very heartily,
                     but the woman, according to the custom of the country, would not touch our
                     provisions. After dinner we brought him back to his house, which was crouded
                     with different groups of the principal families on the island, who sat on the
                     ground, and many of whom shed tears plentifully. We sat down amongst these
                     disconsolate people, and with all the Taheitian oratory we were masters of,
                     endeavoured to sooth them into content and good humour. The women, in
                     particular, shewed a great sensibility, and could not recover for a long while.
                     At last we succeeded to appease their violence of grief; and, as some of us
                     could not behold their distress, without admiring the excellence of their
                     hearts, we naturally sympathized with them, with a degree of sincerity which
                     entirely regained their confidence. It is indeed one of the happiest
                     reflections which this voyage has enabled us to make, that instead of finding
                     the inhabitants of these isles wholly plunged in sensuality, as former voyagers
                     have falsely represented them, we have met with the most generous and exalted
                     sentiments among them, that do honour to the human race in general. Vicious
                     characters are to be met with in all societies of men; but for one villain in
                     these isles, we can shew at least fifty in <placeName>England</placeName>, or
                     any civilized country.</p>

                  <p n="370">In a little time the trade went on as briskly as ever, and we were
                     particularly fortunate in obtaining a supply of vegetables. Towards evening two
                     of <persName>Oree's</persName> messengers arrived with the hanger and a part of
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman's</persName> waistcoat, which were restored to him,
                     and with these soon after we returned on board.</p>

                  <p n="371">In the morning, at day-break, the captains went to
                        <persName>Oree's</persName> house, and returned the piece of pewter on which
                     the commemoration of the first discovery was engraved. At the same time they
                     gave him a piece of copper, with this inscription: his britannick majesty's
                     ships resolution and adventure, september 1773. to which they added a number of
                     medals, and desired him to shew it to any strangers that happened to touch
                     here. As soon as they were on board again, the seamen hove the anchor, and we
                     got under sail, in company with the Adventure. The quantity of live stock which
                     we had purchased during our three days stay was amazing, and shewed how great a
                     value the natives had set upon our iron-work. The Resolution alone had two
                     hundred and nine live hogs, thirty dogs, and about fifty fowls on board, when
                     she sailed, and the Adventure had not much less. We were scarce got under way
                     when <persName>Oree</persName> arrived along-side in a small canoe, and came on
                     board; he acquainted us that the robbers, and the things they had carried off,
                     were taken, and desired both the captains, as well as <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, to come on shore, in order to see the villains
                     punished. But unfortunately his story was misunderstood, and we lost an
                     opportunity of seeing their method of inflicting punishments. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> believing that <persName>Oree</persName> spoke of some of
                     his countrymen who were embarked in the Adventure against his will, immediately
                     dispatched his boat to bring them back; but that vessel being a great way
                     ahead, and we driving out to sea very fast, <persName>Oree</persName> became
                     impatient, took a cordial leave of us all, and returned on shore in his little
                     canoe, with only one of his countrymen to assist him. A little while after our
                     boat returned from the Adventure, and brought on board <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">O-Maï</hi>
                     </persName>, the only native who had embarked in that vessel with a view to go
                     to <placeName>England</placeName>. He staid on board our ship till we reached
                     Raïetea, whither we now directed our course. As soon as we were come to an
                     anchor there, he returned on board the Adventure, and afterwards came to
                        <placeName>England</placeName> in her, and has for some time engrossed the
                     attention of the curious. He seemed to be one of the common people at that
                     time, as he did not aspire to the captain's company, but preferred that of the
                     armourer and the common seamen. But when he reached the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>, where the captain dressed him in his own clothes, and
                     introduced him in the best companies, he declared he was not a <hi rend="italics">towtòw</hi>, which is the denomination of the lowest class,
                     and assumed the character of a <hi rend="italics">hòa,</hi> or attendant
                     upon the king. The world hath been amused at times with different fabulous
                     accounts concerning this man, among which we need only mention the ridiculous
                     story of his being a " Priest of the Sun;" a character which has never existed
                     in the islands from whence he came. His stature was tall, but very slim, and
                     his hands remarkably small. His features did not convey an idea of that beauty
                     which characterizes the men at <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>; on the
                     contrary, we do him no injustice to assert that, among all the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                     Isles</placeName>, we have seen few individuals so ill-favoured as himself. His
                     colour was likewise the darkest hue of the common class of people, and
                     corresponded by no means with the rank he afterwards assumed. It was certainly
                     unfortunate that such a man should be selected as a specimen of a people who
                     have been justly extolled by all navigators, as remarkably well featured and
                     coloured, considering the climate in which they live. The qualities of his
                     heart and head resembled those of his countrymen in general; he was not an
                     extraordinary genius like <persName>Tupaia</persName>, but he was warm in his
                     affections, grateful, and humane; he was polite, intelligent, lively, and
                     volatile. For a further account of <persName>O-Maï</persName>, I refer the
                     reader to the preface, where I have mentioned his stay in
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, his progress in knowledge, and his equipment
                     at his return.</p>

                  <p n="372">
                     <date>[Wednesday 8.]</date>Having left <placeName>Huahine</placeName> we sailed
                     to the westward, and doubled the south end of an island, discovered by
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> in 1769, which all the natives of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName> call <placeName>O-Raietea</placeName>, but which (upon
                     what foundation I know not) is named <placeName>Ulietea</placeName> in
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> charts<ref target="#edn107">
                        <note xml:id="edn107" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 255, 260. </note>
                     </ref>. The next morning we anchored in an opening of the reef, and spent the
                     whole day in warping into <persName>Hamaneno harbour</persName>. The country
                     hereabouts afforded a prospect much resembling <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>;
                     for the island being about three times the size of
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, had much broader plains, anad loftier hills.
                     The natives surrounded us in a number of canoes, and brought a few hogs; but
                     our people looked at them with a careless indifference, and offered very low
                     prices, being difficult to please, since their success at
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>. In one of the canoes a chief came on board,
                     named <persName>Oruwherra</persName>, a native of the adjacent <placeName>isle
                        of Borabora</placeName> (<placeName>Bolabola</placeName>). He was very
                     athletic, but his hands very small, and the punctuation, which the natives call
                     tattow, consisted of the most singular square blotches on his arms, and of
                     large black stripes across the breast, belly, and back. His loins and thighs
                     were uniformly black. He brought some green branches, and a little pig which he
                     presented to my father, being neglected by every body else. Having received a
                     few iron-tools as a return, he descended immediately into his canoe, and was
                     paddled to the shore. But in a little time, another canoe arrived from him with
                     coco-nuts and bananas, which his servants offered to his new friend, refusing
                     at the same time to accept of any retribution. The pleasure which we felt from
                     this circumstance, can easily be conceived. Philanthropy is never better
                     rewarded, than when its objects are endowed with good and amiable
                     qualities.</p>

                  <p n="373">In the afternoon another chief, a native of the same <placeName>isle of
                        Borabora</placeName>, came on board, and exchanged names with my father. His
                     name was <persName>Herea</persName>, and his person the most corpulent we ever
                     saw in the <placeName>South Sea islands</placeName>; round his waist he
                     measured no less than fifty-four inches, and one of his thighs was thirty-one
                     inches and 3/4" in girth. His hair was likewise remarkable; for it hung down in
                     long black wavy tresses to the small of his back, and in such quantity that it
                     encreased the apparent bulk of his head considerably. His corpulence, his
                     colour, and his punctures, like those of <persName>Oruwherra</persName>, were
                     very distinguishing marks of his rank, to which indolence and luxury are
                     annexed here as well as at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. It may perhaps want
                     some explanation, how both these chiefs, who were natives of the adjacent
                        <placeName>isle of Borabora</placeName>, could have any authority and
                     possessions on <placeName>Raietea</placeName>. Already, in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> former voyage, it was known that
                        <persName>O-Poonee</persName> the king of <placeName>Borabora</placeName>,
                     had conquered not only the <placeName>isle of Raietea</placeName>, but likewise
                     that of <placeName>O-Taha</placeName>, which is included in the same reef, and
                     that of <placeName>Mowrua</placeName> which lies about fifteen leagues to the
                        westward<ref target="#edn108">
                        <note xml:id="edn108" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 266, 267. </note>
                     </ref>. The warriors who had served under him in these expeditions had been
                     rewarded with ample possessions, and a great number of his subjects had
                     received grants in the conquered islands. The king of
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName>
                     <persName>Oo-Ooroo</persName>, was however confirmed in his dignity, though his
                     power was confined to the district of <placeName>Opoa</placeName>; but at
                        <placeName>Taha</placeName>, <persName>Poonee</persName> had placed a
                     viceroy, named <persName>Boba</persName>, who was nearly related to him. Many
                     of the natives of the conquered islands had retreated to
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName> and <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>,
                     preferring a voluntary exile, to a submission to the conqueror, and hoping one
                     day to rescue their country from oppression. It seems, this was the motive
                     which prompted <persName>Tupaïa</persName> and <persName>O-Maï</persName>, who
                     were both natives of <placeName>Raietea</placeName>, to embark in British
                     ships, as both of them always expressed a hope of obtaining a quantity of our
                     fire-arms. Tupaia might perhaps have carried his scheme into execution, if he
                     had lived; but <persName>O-Maï's</persName> understanding was not sufficiently
                     penetrative, to acquire a competent idea of our wars, or to adapt it afterwards
                     to the situation of his countrymen. He was, however, so fond of the thought of
                     freeing his country from the <placeName>Borabora</placeName> men, that he has
                     frequently said, in <placeName>England</placeName>, if <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> did no assist him in the execution of his plan, he would
                     take care that his countrymen should not supply him with refreshments. In this
                     opinion he persisted till near the time of his departure, when he was persuaded
                     to adopt more peaceable principles. We were at a loss to conceive the motives
                     which could have induced a native of one of these islands to become a
                     conqueror. If we believed the accounts of the <placeName>Borabora</placeName>
                     men, their native island was as fertile and desireable as these of which they
                     had taken possession; therefore nothing but a spirit of ambition could have
                     stimulated them to contentions. Such a spirit ill agreed with the simplicity
                     and generous character of the people, and it gave us pain to be convinced, that
                     great imperfections cannot be excluded from the best of human societies.</p>

                  <p n="374">
                     <date>[Thursday 9.]</date>On the day after our arrival, the captains went on
                     shore with us to a large house, close to the water's side, which he knew to be
                     the residence of <persName>Orèa</persName>, the chief of the district. We found
                     him sitting in his house, with his wife, son, daughter, and a great number of
                     persons of distinction. Immediately after our arrival we sat down by them, and
                     were shut in on all sides by a thick croud of the natives, who made the place
                     excessively hot. <persName>Orèa</persName> was a middle-sized, lusty man, with
                     a very lively intelligent countenance, and thin redish-brown beard. He joked
                     and laughed very heartily with us, and entirely banished all kinds of ceremony
                     and affectation. His wife was an elderly woman, but his son and daughter, about
                     twelve and fourteen years old. The latter was of a very white colour, and her
                     features had not much of the general character of the nation, particularly her
                     nose, which was remarkably well-shaped, and her eyes, which gave her some
                     resemblance to a Chinese. Her stature was low, but her body elegantly
                     proportioned, and her hands graceful beyond description; only the legs and feet
                     were too large for the rest of the figure, and the custom of cutting the hair
                     short, appeared to be a great disadvantage. Her manners were very engaging, and
                     she had a pleasing soft voice, like most of her country-women, so that she
                     could not be refused, when she asked for beads or other trinkets. As it did not
                     agree with our occupations, to stay in the house, we took a walk into the
                     groves, where we shot a few birds, and collected some plants. We found here, to
                     our great satisfaction, that confidence and familiarity amongst the common
                     people, which we had not experience at <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, and we
                     were happy at the same time not to be importuned by them, in the begging strain
                     of the Taheitians. In the afternoon we made another excursion, and shot several
                     king-fishers. As soon as we had shot the last, we met
                     <persName>Orèa</persName>, and his family walking through the plain with
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>; the chief took no notice of the bird
                     which we had in our hands, but his fair daughter lamented the death of her
                     eatua, and ran from us, when we attempted to touch her with it. Her mother, and
                     most of the women, seemed likewise to be grieved at this accident, and at
                     stepping into the boat, the chief desired us with a very serious air, not to
                     kill the king-fishers and herons on his island, allowing at the same time the
                     liberty of shooting any other sorts of birds. We tried again to discover the
                     nature of their veneration for these two species, but all our enquiries were as
                     fruitless as they had been before.</p>

                  <p n="375">We walked to the top of one of the neighbouring hills <date>[Friday
                        10.]</date>the next day, and found several new plants in the vallies,
                     between them. The soil at the top was a kind of stone marle; on the sides we
                     found some scattered flints, and a few small pieces of a cavernous or spungy
                     stone-lava, of a whitish colour, which seemed to contain some remains of iron.
                     This metal, which is of general and extensive utility, is dispersed through
                     almost all parts of the world, by the benevolent hand of nature, and may
                     perhaps even here be contained in the mountains, in great quantity. The lava
                     indicated the existence of former volcanoes in this island, which we had indeed
                     suspected, because all the adjacent isles, we had hitherto seen, strongly, and
                     sometimes evidently bore the marks of changes by subterraneous fire. One of
                     natives who had attended us, and carried some refreshments, pointed out the
                     direction of several islands in the neighbourhood, but which lay out of sight.
                     About due west, he said, the <placeName>isle of Mopeehàh</placeName> was
                     situated, and about S. by W. another, named <placeName>Whennua
                        òwrah</placeName>. Both these, according to his accounts, were not
                     inhabited, and consisted only of circular ledges of coral, with palms on them,
                     but were occasionally visited from this and the adjacent isles. They seem to be
                        <placeName>Lord Howe's Island</placeName>, and the <placeName>Scilly
                        Isles</placeName>, discovered by <persName>captain Wallis</persName>. We
                     descended about noon, and found that captains <persName>Cook</persName> and
                        <persName>Furneaux</persName> had just left the shore, after seeing a great
                     dramatic dance, or heèva, performed by some of the principal women in the
                     island. We hastened on board, as the day proved very hot, and found both our
                     vessels surrounded by a great number of canoes, in which were several persons
                     of distinction of both sexes, who brought vast quantities of cloth, made of the
                     mulberry-tree's bark, and offered them in exchange for small nails. Our beads
                     were much valued by the ladies as ornaments, but by no means current like the
                     nails, so that we could not even purchase fruit with them. The Taheitians set a
                     much higher value on these trifles, which have no intrinsic worth; may we not
                     conclude therefore, that a greater degree of general opulence is the cause of
                     their particular affection for trinkets, especially as affluence commonly tends
                     to luxury?</p>

                  <p n="376">The heat of the day prevented us from going on shore till near sun-set.
                     We landed at the watering-place, where we found a little <hi rend="italics">tupapow</hi>, or shed, under which a dead body was deposited on a stage,
                     and a thick grove of various shady trees surrounded it on all sides. As I had
                     never seen the remains of the dead carelessly exposed to all kinds of accidents
                     in these islands, I was a little surprised to find the ground strewed with
                     sculls and bones about this shed; nor could I meet with any native at this
                     time, from whom I could receive the least information on this subject. I
                     rambled about here for some time entirely alone, all the inhabitants having
                     repaired to the chief's house, where the drums gave notice of another heeva, or
                     public dance; for they are so fond of this amusement, that they croud together
                     from a considerable distance to have the pleasure of seeing it performed. The
                     stillness of the evening, and the beauty of the spot made this walk extremely
                     pleasant, while the absence of the inhabitants encouraged some ideas of an
                     enchanted country. Before we returned to our boat, we met, however, with a few
                     of the natives, amongst whom one, a very intelligent man, gave us an account of
                     nine islands in the neighbourhood, with most of which we were unacquainted.
                     Their names were, 1. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Mopeehàh</hi>
                     </placeName>, 2. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Whennua-Oùrah</hi>
                     </placeName>, 3. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Adeéha</hi>
                     </placeName>, 4. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Towtèepa</hi>
                     </placeName>, 5. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Wouwòu</hi>
                     </placeName>, 6. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Oo-bòroo</hi>
                     </placeName>, 7. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Tubooài</hi>
                     </placeName>, 8. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Awhàow</hi>
                     </placeName>, and 9. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Rorotòa</hi>
                     </placeName>. The two first we had already heard of in the morning, but of the
                     rest he asserted that they all had their own inhabitants, except
                        <placeName>Adeéha</placeName>, which is occasionally visited.
                        <placeName>Oobòrroo</placeName> he said was a whennua or high land, but all
                     the rest he called mòtoo, that is low islands, or such as consist of ledges of
                     coral.</p>

                  <p n="377">Our curiosity was so much raised by these accounts, that we applied for
                     farther information to the chief <persName>Orèa</persName>, who came on board
                     the next morning with his son <persName>Tehaïura</persName>, and several other
                     chiefs. They enumerated the first, second, seventh and ninth islands of the
                     preceding account; but their relations differed in this respect, as they told
                     us the second was regularly inhabited. besides these they spoke of two more,
                     one called <placeName>Woreèo</placeName> or <placeName>Woureèa</placeName>, a
                     large island, and <placeName>Oreèmatàrra</placeName> another, both which had
                     settled inhabitants. The accounts of the situation and distances of these isles
                     were so various and so vague, that we could by no means depend upon them, for
                     we never met with any man who had visited them; however, they served to
                     convince us, that the natives of the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName> have
                     sometimes extended their navigation farther than its present limits, by the
                     knowledge they have of several adjacent countries. <persName>Tupaya</persName>,
                     the famous man who embarked at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> in the
                     Endeavour, had enumerated a much more considerable list of names, and had
                     actually drawn a map of their respective situations and magnitudes, of which
                        <persName>lieutenant Pickersgill</persName> obligingly communicated a copy
                     to me. In this map we found all the names above-mentioned, <placeName>except
                        Oobòrroo</placeName> and <placeName>Tubooài</placeName>: but if his drawing
                     had been exact, our ships must have sailed over a number of the islands which
                     he had laid down. It is therefore very probably that the vanity of appearing
                     more intelligent than he really was, had prompted him to produce this fancied
                     chart of the South Sea, and perhaps to invent many of the names of islands in
                     it, which amounted to more than fifty.</p>

                  <p n="378">The chief and his son breakfasted with us, and went ashore with a
                     number of presents in return for some of theirs. We followed soon after, and
                     were invited by him to become spectators of a dramatic dance or heeva; which
                     was the more readily accepted by us, as we had never seen one before. The place
                     where it was performed was an area, about twenty-five yards long and ten wide,
                     enclosed between two houses which stood parallel to each other. The one was a
                     spacious building, capable of containing a great multitude of spectators; but
                     the other was only a narrow hut, which was supported on a row of posts, and
                     open towards the area, but perfectly closed up with reeds and mats on the
                     opposite sides; one corner of it was matted on all sides, and this was the
                     dressing-room of the performers. The whole area was spread with three large
                     mats of the best workmanship, striped with black on the edges. In the open part
                     of the smaller hut we saw three drums of different sizes, cut out of solid
                     wood, and covered with shark's skin, which were continually struck with the
                     fingers only by four or five men with amazing dexterity. The largest of these
                     drums was about three feet high and one in diameter. We had already sat some
                     time under the opposite roof, amidst the principal ladies of the island, when
                     the actresses appeared. One of them was <persName>Poyadua</persName>, the fat
                     daughter of the <persName>Chief Orèa</persName>, and the other a tall well
                     shaped lady, of very agreeable features, and likewise a very fair
                        complexion<ref target="#edn109">
                        <note xml:id="edn109" anchored="true"> That is, considering her as a native
                           of the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>. Their dress was remarkably different from the usual fashion of these
                     islands. It consisted of a piece of the brown cloth, of the country fabrick;
                     or, instead of that, of a piece of blue European cloth, closely wrapped round
                     the breast, so as to resemble the close dresses which our ladies wear; a kind
                     of ruff of four rows of their cloth, alternately red and white, rested on their
                     hips, being tied on with a string; and from thence a great quantity of white
                     cloth descended to the feet, forming an ample petticoat, which we expected,
                     from its length, would be a considerable impediment to their agility, as it
                     fairly trailed on the ground on all sides. The neck, shoulders, and arms were
                     left uncovered, but the head was ornamented with a kind of turban, about eight
                     inches high, made of several skains of plaited human hair, which they call
                     tamòw. These being laid above each other in circles, which enlarged towards the
                     top, there was a deep hollow left in the middle, which they had filled up with
                     a great quantity of the sweet-scented flowers of the (<hi rend="italics">gardenia</hi>) <placeName>Cape jasmine</placeName>. But all the front of
                     the turban was ornamented with three or four rows of a small white flower,
                     which formed little stars, and had as elegant an effect on the jetty black hair
                     as if it had been set out with pearls. They moved to the sound of the drums,
                     and to all appearance under the direction of an old man, who danced with them,
                     and pronounced several words, which, from the tone of his voice, we took to be
                     a song. Their attitudes and gestures were much varied, and sometimes might
                     admit of being construed into wantonness; but they were entirely free from that
                     positive degree of gross indecency which the chaste eyes of English ladies of
                     fashion are forced to behold at the opera. The movement of their arms is
                     certainly very graceful, and the continual gesticulation of their fingers has
                     something extremely elegant. The only action which gives offence to all our
                     ideas of gracefulness and harmony, is the frightful custom of writhing their
                     mouths into the strangest distortions, which it was impossible for any one of
                     us to imitate. They screwed their mouth into a slanting direction, and at last
                     threw the lips into a waving or undulated form, which seemed to us to be
                     performed by means of an habitual and sudden convulsion. After they had danced
                     for about ten minutes, they retired into the part of the house which I called
                     their dressing-room, and five men, dressed in mats, took their place,
                     performing a kind of drama. This consisted of dancing in an indecent manner,
                     and of a dialogue which had some cadence, and in which they sometimes
                     pronounced a few words shouting all together. This dialogue seemed to be
                     closely connected with their actions. One of them kneeled down, and another
                     beat him and plucked him by the beard, repeating the same ceremony with two
                     others; but the last seized and beat him in his turn with a stick. After this
                     they withdrew, and the drummers gave notice of the second act of dancing, which
                     the two ladies performed with little variation from the first. The men took
                     their turn a second time; the ladies succeeded them again, and concluded with a
                     fourth act. Then they sat down to rest themselves, appearing fatigued to a
                     great degree, and in a most profuse perspiration; one of them in particular,
                     being rather lustier and of a lively disposition, had a suffusion of red in her
                     cheeks, which was the strongest proof of her fair complexion. The other,
                        <persName>Orèa's</persName> daughter, had performed her part to admiration,
                     notwithstanding the fatigue of the preceding day, when she had acted both in
                     the morning and evening. The officers of both ships, who were present, and
                     ourselves, loaded them with a great variety of beads and ornaments, which they
                     had so well deserved.</p>

                  <p n="379">In the afternoon <persName>Oo-òoroo</persName>, the kind of the
                        <placeName>isle of Raietea</placeName>, came on board with
                        <persName>Orèa</persName> and several ladies, to visit <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>. He brought a hog as an introductory present, and was well
                     repaid with a great quantity of European goods. Among the ladies was one of the
                     dancers, named <persName>Teina</persName> or <persName>Teinamai</persName>, who
                     had performed in the morning, and whose complexion we had much admired. She now
                     appeared to much greater advantage than in the cumbrous dress which she wore
                     during the ceremony. Her own hair, which fortunately was not cut, formed finer
                     ebon ringlets than ever the luxuriant fancy of a painter produced, and a narrow
                     fillet of white cloth was carelessly passed between them. Her eyes were full of
                     fire and expression, and an agreeable smile sat in her round face.
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> took this opportunity of drawing a sketch of
                     her portrait, which her vivacity and restless disposition rendered almost
                     impossible. This was, perhaps, the reason that he was less successful than
                     usual, as the representation which is inserted in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> own account of this voyage, is infinitely below the
                     delicacy of the original, notwithstanding the excellence of <persName>Mr.
                        Sherwin's</persName> engraving. But though it has lost the resemblance to
                        <persName>Teinamai</persName>, it may serve as a specimen of the generality
                     of features in this and the neighbouring islands, and gives a tolerable idea of
                     a Taheitian boy about ten years old. Towards sun-set, all our noble visitors
                     returned ashore, extremely well pleased with the reception which they had met
                     with; a number of women of the lowest rank, however, remained on our decks,
                     with a complaisance equal to that of the Taheitian girls (see pag. 336).</p>

                  <p n="380">It was remarkable that they were not without some degree of vanity, as
                     they never gave themselves any other name than that of <hi rend="italics">tedùa</hi>, (lady), which is the title of their female nobility, and
                     which, by way of eminence, is particularly applied to the princesses of these
                     islands. If the king's sister happened to pass by while we sat in a house at
                     Taheitee, the natives who surrounded us were warned to uncover their shoulders,
                     by some one who spied her at a distance, simply saying <hi rend="italics">tedua harremai</hi>, (the lady comes hither!) or else they only said
                        <hi rend="italics">aree!</hi> which on such occasions always denoted one
                     of the royal family. Our sailors, who did not understand the language, took it
                     for granted that their dulcineas were all of one name, which frequently
                     occasion some pleasant mistakes.</p>

                  <p n="381">
                     <date>[Sunday 12.][Monday 13.]</date>We spent the two next days in various
                     rambles along the shores, in which we found many deep creeks towards the
                     northern part, with marshes at the bottom, where wild-ducks and snipes resided
                     in great plenty. These birds were more shy than we expected, which we soon
                     learnt was owing to their being much pursued by the natives, who looked upon
                     them as dainty bits. On the first of these days we were likewise entertained
                     with another heeva or dramatic dance, by the same persons who had performed it
                     before. It was in every respect the same with that which we saw on the
                        <date>1th</date>, only its duration was much shorter.</p>

                  <p n="382">
                     <date>[Tuesday 14.]</date>On the 14th, at day-break, <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> sent his launch, and <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>
                     another boat, to the <placeName>isle of O-Tahà</placeName>, which was two or
                     three leagues distant, and inclosed in the same reef within which we lay at
                     anchor. They were in hopes of purchasing some fruit there, which was very
                     scarce at <placeName>Raietea</placeName>, and to that purpose provided
                        <persName>lieutenant Pickersgill</persName> and <persName>Mr.
                        Rowe</persName> the mate of the Adventure, with a quantity of beads and
                     nails. <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and my father, unwilling to miss this
                     opportunity of examining another island, likewise embarked with them.</p>

                  <p n="383">
                     <persName>Orea</persName>, the chief of this part of the island, having invited
                     us to come and dine on shore, the captains, with several officers and
                     passengers of both ships, and myself, went on shore about noon, taking with us
                     a little pepper and salt, some knives, and a few bottles of wine. A great part
                     of the chief's spacious house was spread with quantities of leaves, which
                     served as a table-cloth, round which we seated ourselves, with the principal
                     inhabitants. We had not waited long, before one of the common people arrived
                     with a hog smoking on his shoulders, roasted whole, and wrapped in a large
                     bundle of plantane-leaves, which he threw upon the floor in the midst of us: a
                     second tossed a smaller to us in the same manner; and these were followed by
                     several others bringing baskets, full of bread-fruit, bananas, and the
                     fermented paste of bread-fruit, called mahei. Our host now desired us to help
                     ourselves, and in a short time we had cut the two hogs in pieces. All the
                     women, and the common sort of people, applied to us with a begging tone for
                     portions, and what we distributed was handed from our neighbours, to the
                     remotest persons in the croud. The men consumed their share with every mark of
                     a good appetite, but the women carefully wrapped theirs up, and preserved it
                     till they should be alone. The eagerness with which they repeated their
                     importunities, as well as the envious looks of the chiefs, whenever we granted
                     the request, convinced us, that the commonalty were in this island deprived of
                     all sorts of luxuries and dainties. We all agreed that the pork which was set
                     before us, tasted infinitely better, than if it had been dressed after the
                     European manner. It was much juicier than our boiled, and beyond comparison
                     more tender than roasted meat. The equal degree of heat with which it stews
                     under-ground, had preserved and concentrated all its juices. The fat was not
                     luscious and surfeiting, and the skin instead of being hard as a stone, which
                     is always the case with our roasted pork, was as tender as any other part.
                     After dinner our bottles and glasses were brought in, and our friend
                        <persName>Orèa</persName> drank his share without flinching, which appeared
                     to us rather extraordinary, since almost all the natives of these islands
                     expressed a great dislike to our strong liquors. Sobriety is a virtue almost
                     universal with them, and particularly among people of inferior rank. They are
                     however acquainted with an intoxicating beverage, which is much admired by some
                     of the old chiefs. It is made in the most disgustful manner that can be
                     imagined, from the juices contained in the root of a species of pepper-tree.
                     This root is cut small, and the pieces chewed by several people, who spit the
                     macerated mass into a bowl, where some water (milk) of coco-nuts is poured upon
                     it. They then strain it through a quantity of the fibres of coco-nuts,
                     squeezing the chips, till all their juices mix with the cocoa-nut-milk; and the
                     whole liquor is decanted into another bowl. They swallow this nauseous stuff as
                     fast as possible; and some old topers value themselves on being able to empty a
                     great number of bowls. I was present at the whole process one of the first days
                     after our arrival at this island. Our passenger, <persName>Porea</persName>,
                     who was not so reserved with the natives here as he had been at
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, brought one of his new acquaintances into
                     the captain's cabin, and immediately sat down with him to perform the
                     operation. He drank about a pint, which in less than a quarter of an hour made
                     him so dead drunk, that he lay down on the floor without motion; his face was
                     inflamed, and his eyes swelled out of his head. A sound sleep of several hours
                     was necessary to restore him to his senses; but as soon as he had recovered
                     them, he appeared thoroughly ashamed of his debauch. The pepper-plant is in
                     high esteem with all the natives of these islands as a sign of peace; perhaps,
                     because getting drunk together, naturally implies good fellowship. It seems,
                     however, that drunkenness here is punished, like all other excesses, by
                     disease. The old men who make a practice of it are lean, covered with a scaly
                     or scabby skin, have red eyes, and red blotches on all parts of the body. They
                     acknowledge these evils to be the consequence of drinking; and to all
                     appearance, the pepper-plant, which they call awa, tends to produce leprous
                     complaints.</p>

                  <p n="384">As soon as we had dined, our boat's crew and servants feasted on the
                     remains; and the same croud who had profited by our liberality before, now paid
                     their court to them. The sailors were complaisant only to the fair sex; and
                     giving way to their natural disposition for sensuality, for every piece of pork
                     required the performance of an indecent denudation. To complete our
                     entertainment this day, the chief gave orders for performing another heeva, and
                     we were admitted (behind the scenes) to see the ladies dressing for that
                     purpose. They obtained some strings of beads on this occasion, with which we
                     took it into our heads to improve upon their ornaments, much to their own
                     satisfaction. Among the spectators we observed several of the prettiest women
                     of this country; and one of them was remarkable for the whitest complexion we
                     had ever seen in all these islands. Her colour resembled that of white wax a
                     little sullied, without having the least appearance of sickness, which that hue
                     commonly conveys; and her fine black eyes and hair contrasted so well with it,
                     that she was admired by us all. She received at first a number of little
                     presents, which were so many marks of homage paid at the shrine of beauty; but
                     her success, instead of gratifying, only sharpened her love of trinkets, and
                     she incessantly importuned every one of us as long as she suspected we had a
                     single bead left. One of the gentlemen fortunately happened to have a little
                     padlock in his hand, which she begged for as soon as she had perceived it.
                     After denying it for some time, he consented to give it her, and locked it in
                     her ear, assuring her that was its proper place. She was well pleased for some
                     time; but finding it too heavy, desired him to unlock it. He flung away the
                     key, giving her to understand at the same time, that he had made her the
                     present at her own desire, and that if she found it incumbered here, she should
                     bear it as a punishment for importuning us with her petitions. She was
                     disconsolate upon this refusal, and weeping bitterly, applied to us all to open
                     the padlock; but if we had been willing, we were not able to comply with her
                     request for want of the key. She applied to the chief; and he as well as his
                     wife, son and daughter, joined in praying for the release of her ear; they
                     offered cloth, perfume-wood, and hogs, but all in vain. At last a small key was
                     found to open the padlock, which put an end to the poor girl's lamentation, and
                     restored peace and tranquility among all her friends. Her adventure had however
                     this good effect, that it cured her and some of her forward country-women of
                     their idle habit of begging. In the evening we returned on board, highly
                     pleased with the hospitality and general good disposition of the natives
                     towards us. We were therefore surprised the next morning, that not a single
                     canoe would come off to us, and going to <persName>Orèa's</persName> house, in
                     order to enquire the reason of this sudden change of behaviour, we to our
                     farther astonishment found it abandoned by him and his family. A few of the
                     natives, who came to us with a good deal of diffidence, told us that he had
                     retired towards the north point of the island, being afraid that we meant to
                     take him prisoner. It was immediately resolved upon to follow, in order to
                     undeceive him, and give him fresh assurance of friendship. We rowed along shore
                     for several miles, till we came to the place to which he had retired. At our
                     interview all were in tears, so that we were obliged to have recourse to a
                     variety of caresses, to inspire them with new confidence towards us, and our
                     beads, nails, and hatchets, were not the least efficacious arguments. They told
                     us they believed captain Cook would confine them, in order to force their
                     country-men to bring back those people who were run away from us to O-Taha. We
                     now saw through their mistake, and assured them that our party had not run
                     away, but was sent on purpose, and would certainly return this night.
                        <persName>Orèa</persName> not yet satisfied, named each of the principal
                     persons in that party singly, and enquired concerning every one, whether he
                     would come back, and the positive answers which we returned, at last quieted
                     his apprehensions. While we were sitting in a circle with them,
                        <persName>Porea</persName> our Taheitian, who intended to go to
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, came running to the captain, returned the
                     powder-horn, which he had hitherto carried for him, and said he would come back
                     to us presently. We waited in vain a good while, and at last were obliged to
                     return on board without him; nor did we see him again during the little time we
                     remained on the island. From the natives we could gather but little
                     information, and the captain fearing lest they should take new alarm, if he
                     interested himself too strongly in his behalf, entirely dropped the enquiry.
                     After dinner I accompanied him to the shore again, on a visit to
                        <placeName>Orèa</placeName>. A very handsome youth, about seventeen years of
                     age, who went by the name of <persName>O-Hedeedee</persName>, and who appeared
                     to be of the better sort of people by his complexion and good garments,
                     addressed himself to me, expressing a desire to embark for England. I was not
                     inclined to believe at first, that he would forsake the easy way of life, which
                     persons of his rank enjoyed in these islands, and smiling at his proposal, told
                     him the disagreeable circumstances to which he exposed himself by leaving his
                     country. But, though I represented to him the rigours of climate which we had
                     to endure, and the bad provisions to which he should be reduced in time, he was
                     not to be dissuaded from his resolution, and a number of his friends joined
                     with him to desire his admittance into our ship. Upon this I presented him to
                     captain Cook, and he having granted his request, we all returned on board
                     together. Before sun-set our boats returned from <placeName>O-Taha</placeName>,
                     where they had collected a load of bananas and coco-nuts, and a few hogs. They
                     landed there on the 14th in the morning, after a few hours sail, in a fine bay
                     on the east side, called <placeName>O-Hamene</placeName>. The country and its
                     inhabitants perfectly resembled those of the other islands in this archipelago.
                     Their productions, vegetable and animal, were in general the same, varying only
                     in the abundance or scarcity of some articles. Thus, for instance, the tree,
                     which our sailors called the apple-tree, (<hi rend="italics">spondias</hi>),
                     was plentiful at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, extremely rare at
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName> and <persName>Huahine</persName>, and not
                     very common at <placeName>Tahà</placeName>; fowls were hardly to be met with at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but common in the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>; and rats, which infested <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>
                     in numberless myriads, were not quite so numerous at
                        <placeName>O-Tahà</placeName>; still less frequent at
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName>, and seen in very inconsiderable numbers at
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="385">After our party had dined in <placeName>O-Hamene harbour</placeName>,
                     they removed to the next creek to the north, and walked to the house of a chief
                     named <persName>O-Tàh</persName>, where the natives said there would be a heeva
                     or public dance. The crowd increased prodigiously as they approached it, and in
                     their way they saw a woman at a considerable distance, dressed in a singular
                        habit<ref target="#edn110">
                        <note xml:id="edn110" anchored="true"> This is to be described in the
                           sequel. </note>
                     </ref>, and blacked all over. They were told she performed the burial rite, or
                     mourned for a dead person. They found the aree, who was an elderly man, sitting
                     on a wooden stool, of which he offered one half to my father. The dance was
                     begun some time after by three young girls, the eldest not exceeding ten, and
                     the youngest about five years of age. The usual music was performed on three
                     drums, and in the intervals of the dance three men performed something of a
                     pantomime drama, which represented travellers asleep, and thieves dextrously
                     conveying away their goods, round which they had, for greater security, placed
                     themselves. During their performance the croud made way for several people who
                     advanced towards the house in pairs, but stopped at the entrance. They were
                     well dressed, with sashes of their red cloth round their loins, and skains of
                     the tamòw or plaited hair round their heads, and the whole upper part of their
                     body was naked and anointed with coco-nut oil. Some among them were grown men
                     and some boys. <persName>O-Tàh</persName> called them the O-Da-widdee<ref target="#edn111">
                        <note xml:id="edn111" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Mahine</persName> and <persName>Omai</persName> called them by
                           the name of Hea-biddhee and explained the word to signify relations.
                        </note>
                     </ref>, which, from the gestures he made to explain himself, our people
                     understood to be mourners. When they appeared the area of the entrance was
                     spread with cloth of bark, which was, however, taken up immediately and given
                     to the drummers. One of the latter quarrelled with another native, and they
                     fought, pulling each other by the hair, and giving some hearty blows. However,
                     that the entertainment might not be interrupted, another drummer was
                     substituted, and the boxers turned out of the house. Towards the end of the
                     dance the croud made way, and the O-Da-widdee appeared once more, but stood
                     still, as they had done at first, without performing any other particular
                     rite.</p>

                  <p n="386">A great number of canoes were hauled up along the shore before the
                     chief's house, and in one of them, which had a roof or covering, there was a
                     dead corse, for which the mourning rites were instituted. Our gentlemen were
                     obliged, therefore, to lay up their boats a little farther on, where they
                     passed the night under shelter of a good house, whilst it blew and rained
                     excessively hard.</p>

                  <p n="387">The next morning the chief, <persName>O-Tah</persName>, went into the
                     boat with them, and they sailed round the north point of the isle, seeing a
                     number of long low islands, covered with palm and other trees, which lay in the
                     reef. They bought a quantity of good bananas about <time>ten o'clock</time>,
                     and dined a little farther to the southward, near the house of the greatest
                     chief in the island, whose name was <persName>Boba</persName>, and who governed
                     it as a viceroy for <persName>O-Poonee</persName>, the king of
                        <placeName>Borabora</placeName>, (<placeName>Bolabola</placeName>) but was
                     not on the island at that time. After dinner they missed a bag, which contained
                     a number of nails, some looking-glasses, and several strings of beads, being
                     their whole stock in trade. After a short debate, the officers resolved to
                     seize as much of the property of the inhabitants as possible, in order to force
                     them to a restitution. They immediately began at the place where they traded,
                     and took away a hog, some mother of pearl shells, and a quantity of cloth, not
                     without being obliged to threaten with fire-arms. The party was then divided;
                     some guarded the boats, some the goods which were seized, and some, with the
                     lieutenant at their head, advanced into the country in quest of greater
                     seizures. The old chief, <persName>O-Tah</persName>, accompanied them, and was
                     under the strongest influence of fear, which manifested itself like that of the
                     dogs in the fable<ref target="#edn112">
                        <note xml:id="edn112" anchored="true"> See Phӕdr. Fab. </note>
                     </ref>. Wherever they came the inhabitants hurried away before them, and drove
                     their hogs into the mountains. The officer ordered three muskets to be fired to
                     frighten them, upon which a chief, who had one leg and foot swelled to an
                     enormous size by the <hi rend="italics">elephantiasis</hi>, returned and
                     surrendered his hogs and several large bales of cloth. Our people next
                     proceeded to <persName>Boba's</persName> house, which they stripped of two
                     targets and a drum, and with these spoils they retired to the house which they
                     had occupied before. <persName>O Tàh</persName> left them in the evening, but
                     returned soon after with the stolen bag, containing about one half of the
                     nails, beads, &amp;c. which were taken away with it, and passed the night among
                     our party. Early the next morning the proprietors of the goods which our people
                     had seized, were told that every thing should be restored on condition that
                     they procured the remaining beads and nails. In the mean time they advanced
                     towards <placeName>O Herurua Bay</placeName> on the S. W. part of the island,
                     and, on their way, the chief, <persName>O-Tàh</persName>upon which our people
                     gave up the cloth, hogs, targets, &amp;c. which had hitherto remained in their
                     hands, and rewarded the owner of the hut, where they had passed the night, as
                     well as the old chief, for their fidelity and kindness. The beads which they
                     had recovered, enabled them to purchase a quantity of bananas in the district
                     of <placeName>Herurua</placeName>, and afterwards in a bay called
                        <placeName>A-Poto-Poto</placeName> or the <placeName>Round Bay</placeName>,
                     where they saw one of the largest houses in all the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>. It was full of inhabitants, many of whom lodged with
                     their families in different parts of it; the whole appearing to be rather a
                     public building, erected for the casual shelter of travellers, like the
                     carvansaras of the East, than a private dwelling-house. Here they dined, and
                     after disposing of every bead and nail which they had brought with them, set
                     out on their return to the ships, where they arrived about <time>four o'clock
                        in the afternoon</time>, thoroughly wet by the waves which beat into their
                     boats.</p>

                  <p n="388">The next morning, the chief <persName>Orèa</persName> with his family
                     came to take leave of us, and the ship was filled with the friends of
                        <persName>O-Hedeedee</persName>, who embarked with us, bringing him cloth of
                     the country fabric, and a sea provision of their balls of fermented bread-fruit
                     (mahei) which they are very fond of, and which is one of the most nutritive
                     substances in the world. The daughter of <persName>Orèa</persName>, who had
                     never ventured to visit us before, came on board on this occasion, to beg for
                     the green awning of the captain's boat, which had mightily struck her fancy.
                     She received abundance of presents, but the captain could not possibly grant
                     her request. The trade for their tools, cloth, &amp;c. was very brisk all round
                     the ship about this time, till the anchor was weighed. Our friends parted from
                     us, with the sincerest expressions of grief, and shedding floods of tears,
                     reproached some of us with a want of sensibility. Our civilized education in
                     general tends to stifle the emotions of our heart; for as we are too often
                     taught to be ashamed of them, we unhappily conquer them by custom. On the
                     contrary, the simple child of nature, who inhabits these islands, gives free
                     course to all his feelings, and glories in his affection towards the
                     fellow-creature.</p>

                  <p n="389">
                     <q>
                        <l>Mollissima corda</l>
                        <l>Humano generi dare se natura fatetur,</l>
                        <l>Quӕ lacrymas dedit; hӕc nostri pars optima sensus.</l>
                        <persName>Juvenal</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="390"> ;</p>

                  <p n="391">A VOYAGE round the WORLD.</p>

               </div>
            </div>
            <div n="2" type="book">
               <head>BOOK II.</head>

               <div n="1" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. I.<lb/>
                     Run from the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName> to the <placeName>Friendly
                           Isles</placeName>, with an Account of our<lb/>
                      Transactions there.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="392">
                     <date>[1773. September.]</date>WE cleared the reefs of
                        <placeName>Hamaneno</placeName> towards <time>ten o'clock</time>, and
                     steered to the W.S.W. having the islands of <placeName>Raietea</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Tahà</placeName>, and <placeName>Borabora</placeName> in sight.
                     Only one month had elapsed since our arrival at
                     <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and yet we found ourselves recovered from the
                     effects of a long uncomfortable cruize in cold wet climates, and during the
                     worst of seasons; and all those who had the strongest symptoms of the scurvy at
                     that time, were now as perfectly restored to their health as the rest. The
                     vegetables of this delightful group of islands had, in all likelihood,
                     principally effected our cure, especially as we left our first place of
                     refreshment, <placeName>Aitepèha</placeName>, in a tolerable state of
                     convalescence, though we had not then tasted any fresh animal food. Our
                     prospect for the next month to come promised a continuance of health, for we
                     carried with us between two and three hundred hogs in each ship, besides a
                     number of fowls and some dogs, together with a great quantity of bananas, which
                     formed a kind of orchard on our poop. It is true the want of room occasioned
                     the death of several hogs, and the obstinacy of the old dogs in refusing to
                     take any sustenance, deprived us of the greatest number of those animals. But
                     we soon took an effectual method of saving our provisions by killing all the
                     hogs which were weakened by confinement, and strewing the meat with salt. By
                     this means it was preserved, and remained palatable and juicy without being so
                     unwholesome as the pickled meat we brought from England, which was now so
                     penetrated with salt, that if we attempted to sweeten it in water, we extracted
                     all the remaining juices. The only inconvenience which the stay among these
                     isles had brought upon our seamen, was a complaint which arose from their own
                     intemperance, in carrying on a free connection with common women. But this,
                     though many of them were affected with it, was fortunately of so slight a
                     nature, that it did not, in general take them from their duty, and yielded
                     quickly to the gentlest remedies.</p>

                  <p n="393">Our young friend <persName>Hedeèdee</persName>, whom we had taken with
                     us instead of the Taheitian <persName>Porèa</persName>, felt himself much
                     affected with the sea-sickness, occasioned by the motion of the ship, to which
                     he was not accustomed. He told us, however, as we were looking at the high peak
                     of <placeName>Borabòra</placeName>, that he was born in that island, and was
                     nearly related to <persName>O-Poonee</persName>, the great king who had
                     conquered <placeName>Tahà</placeName> and <placeName>Raietea</placeName>. He
                     acquainted us, at the same time, that his own name was properly
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>, he having exchanged it for that of
                        <persName>Hedeedee</persName> with a chief in <placeName>Eimeo</placeName> a
                     custom which, as I have already observed in another place, is common in all
                     these islands. His relation, <persName>king O-Poonee</persName>, was at
                     present, according to his account, at <placeName>Mowràa</placeName>, an island
                     which we passed in the afternoon. It consisted of a single mountain, of a conic
                     form, rising into a sharp point; and from the reports of the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName>, some of whom had frequently visited it, we
                     had reason to conclude that its productions are perfectly similar to those of
                     all the other isles in this group.</p>

                  <p n="394">Our poor friend did not recover his appetite till the next afternoon,
                     when he feasted on part of a dolphin of twenty-eight pounds weight, which had
                     been caught by one of our seamen. We offered to have it dressed for him
                     immediately, but he assured us it tasted much better raw; and accordingly we
                     provided him with a bowl of sea-water, in which he dipped the morsels as in a
                     sauce, and eat them with great relish, alternately biting into a ball of maheî,
                     or sour bread-fruit paste, instead of bread. Before he sat down to his meal,
                     however, he separated a little morsel of the fish and a bit of the maheî, as an
                     offering to the Eatua or Divinity, pronouncing a few words at the same time,
                     which we understood to be a short prayer. He performed the same ceremony two
                     days after, <date>[Monday 20]</date>when he dined on a raw piece of shark.
                     These instances served to convince us, that his countrymen have certain fixed
                     principles of religion, and that a kind of ceremonial worship takes place among
                     them, which they have perhaps preserved ever since their first separation from
                     their ancestors on the continent.</p>

                  <p n="395">
                     <date>[Thursday 23.]</date>We continued our course without any event worthy of
                     notice till the 23d, in the morning, when a low island appeared on our larboard
                     bow. We steered towards it, and about noon found it was divided into two parts;
                     the latitude which we observed at that time was <geo select="lat">19° 8'
                        s</geo>outh. We soon distinguished a quantity of shrubs and tufted trees
                     upon it, over which rose a prodigious number of coco-palms. By the help of our
                     glasses we observed that the shore was sandy, but here and there over-run with
                     verdure, which probably was occasioned by the common bindweed of these climates
                        (<hi rend="italics">convolvulus Brasiliensis</hi>). A reef as we
                     apprehended, connected the two parts of the island together, which
                     notwithstanding its agreeable appearance, seemed to be entirely uninhabited.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> gave it the name of <placeName>Hervey's
                        Isle</placeName>, in honour of the present earl of
                        <placeName>Bristol</placeName>. A bird which resembled a sand-piper in its
                     flight, and note, had appeared about the ship, the day before we made this
                     island, and might be said to have announced its proximity, but though we
                     observed another of the same sort <date>[Sunday 26.]</date>on the 26th which
                     actually settled in the rigging, yet we did not fall in with another island. We
                     held a westerly course from <placeName>Hervey's Isle</placeName>, which lies in
                        <geo select="lat">19° 18' s</geo>outh latitude and <geo select="lon">158°
                        54' w</geo>est longitude from <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, till
                        <date>[1773. October.][Friday 1.]</date>the first of October when we saw
                     land before us about <time>two o'clock in the afternoon</time>. In four hours
                     time we came within two or three leagues of it, and found it of a moderate
                     height; the hills were covered with trees, and offered a pleasing, though not
                     magnificent prospect. At the south-west extremity we observed a small rocky
                     islet, and to the northward a low land of greater extent. From thence we
                     judged, that the isle before us was the same which <persName>Abel Janssen
                        Tasman</persName> named <placeName>Middleburg Isle</placeName>, in 1643, and
                     that the other to the north, was that of <placeName>Amsterdam</placeName>,
                     discovered by the same navigator. We lay to <date>[Saturday 2.]</date>all
                     night, and with day-break passed round the S. W. point of <placeName>Middleburg
                        Isle</placeName>, and ranged its western coast. There appeared to be some
                     low land at the bottom of the hills, which contained plantations of fine young
                     bananas, whose vivid green leaves contrasted admirably with the different tints
                     of various shrubberies, and with the brown colour of the coco palms, which
                     seemed to be the effect of winter. The light was still so faint, that we
                     distinguished several fires glimmering in the bushes, but by degrees we
                     likewise discerned people running along the shore. The hills which were low,
                     and not so high above the level of the sea as the <placeName>Isle of
                        Wight</placeName>, were agreeably adorned with small clumps of trees
                     scattered at some distance, and the intermediate ground appeared covered with
                     herbage, like many parts of <placeName>England</placeName>. It was not long
                     before we perceived some of the inhabitants busied in launching several canoes,
                     and paddling towards us. We threw a rope into one of these canoes which ran up
                     close to us, and one of the three people in her came on board, and presented a
                     root of the intoxicating pepper-tree of the <placeName>South Sea
                        Islands</placeName>, touched our noses with his like the New Zeelanders, in
                     sign of friendship, and then sat down on the deck without speaking a word. The
                     captain presented him with a nail, upon which he immediately held it over his
                     own head, and pronounced <hi rend="italics">fagafetai</hi>, which was
                     probably an expression of thanksgiving. He was naked to the waist, but from
                     thence to the knees he had a piece of cloth wrapped about him, which seemed to
                     be manufactured much like that of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but was
                     covered with a brown colour, and a strong glue, which made it stiff, and fit to
                     resist the wet. His stature was middle-sized, and his lineaments were mild and
                     tolerably regular. His colour was much like that of the common Taheitians<ref target="#edn113">
                        <note xml:id="edn113" anchored="true"> As I shall frequently mention the
                           inhabitants of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and of the
                              <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, in comparison with other
                           islanders, it will be proper to observe, that since the natives both of
                              <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and of the <placeName>Society
                              Islands</placeName>, are perfectly alike in most respects, I shall
                           indifferently call a custom Taheitian, or usual at the <placeName>Society
                              Islands</placeName>, which is common to them both. Therefore, unless I
                           expresly put these terms in contradistinction to each other, I wish to
                           have them understood in general as synonymous. </note>
                     </ref>, that is, of a clear mahogany or chestnut brown; his beard was cut short
                     or shaven, and his hair was black, in short frizzled curls, burnt as it were at
                     the tips. He had three circular spots on each arm, about the size of a crown
                     piece, consisting of several concentric circles of elevated points, which
                     answered to the punctures of the Taheitians, but were not blacked; besides
                     these, he had other black punctures on his body. A small cylinder was fixed
                     through two holes in the lap of his ear, and his left hand wanted the little
                     finger. He continued his silence for a considerable while, but some others, who
                     ventured on board soon after him, were of a more communicative turn, and after
                     having performed the ceremony of touching noses, spoke a language which was
                     unintelligible to us at that time. In the mean while we arrived at the N. W.
                     point of the island, where we struck soundings on a good bottom, in an open
                     road, and let go our anchors about nine in the morning. We were presently
                     surrounded by a number of canoes, each containing three or four people, who
                     offered great quantities of their cloth for sale. The canoes were small, about
                     fifteen feet long, very sharp built, and decked or covered at each extremity.
                     Most of them had out-riggers made of poles, like the small canoes at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but the workmanship of these boats was
                     infinitely preferable, as they were joined together with an exactness which
                     surprised us, and the whole surface had received an excellent polish. Their
                     paddles had short broad blades, something like those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but more neatly wrought, and of better
                     wood. They made a great deal of noise about us, every one shewing what he had
                     to sell, and calling to some one of us, who happened to look towards them.
                     Their language was not unpleasing, and whatever they said, was in a singing
                     kind of tone. Many were bold enough to come on board, without expressing the
                     least hesitation, and one of these seemed to be a chief, or a man of some
                     quality, and was accordingly treated with a number of presents, which he
                     severally laid on his head, when he received them, saying <hi rend="italics">fagafetai</hi> every time. Our English cloth and linen he admired most,
                     and iron wares in the next degree. His behaviour was very free and unconcerned;
                     for he went down into the cabin, and where-ever we thought fit to conduct him.
                     He likewise told us, upon our enquiry, that the island near which we lay at
                     anchor, (the same which <persName>Tasman</persName> called
                        <placeName>Middleburg</placeName>) was called
                        <placeName>Ea-Oowhe</placeName> among his country-men; and that the other to
                     the north (or <persName>Tasman's</persName>
                     <placeName>Amsterdam island</placeName>) bore the name of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. We consulted several of the natives, in
                     order to have greater certainty on this point, and always received the same
                     names in answer.</p>

                  <p n="396">After breakfast, the captains went on shore with us and the chief, who
                     had continued on board all that time. A bed of coral rocks surrounded the
                     coast, towards the landing-place; but many canoes occupied the deep channels
                     between these rocks, and a great number of inhabitants in them as well as on
                     the shore, shouted for joy at our approach. The canoes immediately came along
                     side the boat, and the natives threw great bales of cloth into it, without
                     asking for any thing in return; while many of both sexes swam about perfectly
                     naked, holding up some trifles, such as rings of tortoise-shell, fish-hooks of
                     mother of pearl, and the like, for sale. As soon as we could make way through
                     the throng of canoes, we approached as near as possible to the shore, and were
                     carried to it out of our boat, for which the natives very readily offered their
                     backs. The people thronged about us with every expression of friendship, and
                     offered a few fruits, with a variety of arms and utensils. The cordial
                     reception which we met with, was such as might have been expected from a people
                     well acquainted with our good intentions, and accustomed to the transitory
                     visits of European ships. But these kind islanders had never seen Europeans
                     among them, and could only have heard of <persName>Tasman</persName> who
                     visited the adjacent <placeName>Amsterdam island</placeName>, by imperfect
                     tradition. Nothing was therefore more conspicuous in their whole behaviour than
                     an open, generous disposition, free from any mean distrust. This was confirmed
                     by the appearance of a great number of women in the croud, covered from the
                     waist downwards, whose looks and smiles welcomed us to the shore. <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName> designed this memorable interview in an elegant picture,
                     which has been engraved for <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this
                     voyage. The same candour with which I have made it a rule to commend the
                     performances of this ingenious artist, whenever they are characteristic of the
                     objects which he meant to represent, obliges me to mention, that this piece, in
                     which the execution of <persName>Mr. Sherwin</persName> cannot be too much
                     admired, does not convey any adequate idea of the natives of
                        <placeName>Eaoowhe</placeName> or of <placeName>Tonga Tabbo</placeName>. The
                     plates which ornamented the history of <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     former voyage, have been justly criticised, because they exhibited to our eyes
                     the pleasing forms of antique figures and draperies, instead of those Indians
                     of which we wished to form some idea. But it is also greatly to be feared, that
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> has lost the sketches and drawings which he
                     made from Nature in the course of the voyage, and supplied the deficiency in
                     this case, from his own elegant ideas. The connoisseur will find Greek contours
                     and features in this picture, which have never existed in the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>. He will admire an elegant flowing robe which involves the
                     whole head and body, in an island where the women very rarely cover the
                     shoulders and breast; and he will be struck with awe and delight by the figure
                     of a divine old man, with a long white beard, though all the people of Ea-oowhe
                     shave themselves with muscle-shells.</p>

                  <p n="397">We soon left the landing place, and followed the chief, who invited us
                     up into the country. The ground from the water's side rose somewhat steep for a
                     few yards, above which it flattened into a beautiful green lawn, surrounded by
                     tall trees and tufted shrubberies, and open only to the sea. At the bottom of
                     it, which might be about one hundred yards from the landing-place, we saw a
                     very neat well-looking house, of which the roof sloped down within two feet of
                     the ground. We advanced across the delightful green, which was so smooth, that
                     it put us in mind of the finest spots in <placeName>England</placeName>, and
                     were entreated to sit down in the house, which was most elegantly laid out with
                     mats of the best workmanship. In one corner of it we saw a moveable partition
                     of wicker-work standing upright, and, from the signs of the natives collected,
                     that it separated their bed-place. The roof, sloping down on all sides, was
                     formed of a great number of spars and round sticks very firmly connected, and
                     covered with a sort of matting made of banana leaves.</p>

                  <p n="398">We were no sooner seated in the house, surrounded by a considerable
                     number of natives, not less than a hundred, than two or three of the women
                     welcomed us with a song, which, though exceedingly simple, had a very pleasing
                     effect, and was highly musical when compared to the Taheitian songs. They beat
                     time to it by snapping the second finger and thumb, and holding the three
                     remaining fingers upright. Their voices were very sweet and mellow, and they
                     sung in parts. When they had done they were relieved by others, who sung the
                     same tune, and at last they joined together in chorus. A very ingenious
                     gentleman, who was on this voyage with us, has favoured me with one of the
                     tunes which he heard in this island, which may serve as a specimen to the
                     musical part of my readers.</p>

                  <p n="399">[Some music notes]</p>

                  <p n="400">In this little specimen the music is in the minor key, (a flat third).
                     They varied the four notes without ever going lower than A or higher than E;
                     singing them rather slow, and sometimes ending with the chord [some music
                     notes].</p>

                  <p n="401">The kindness of the people was expressed in every look and gesture, and
                     they freely offered us some coco-nuts, of which we found the liquor very
                     palatable. We were likewise regaled with a most delicious perfume in this
                     place, which the breeze wafted towards us. It was a considerable time before we
                     discovered from whence it proceeded; but at last having looked at some shady
                     trees at the back of the house, we perceived they were of the lemon tribe, and
                     covered with beautiful branches of white flowers, which spread this fragrant
                     smell. The natives soon brought us some of the fruits, which we knew to be of
                     the kind called shaddocks in the West-Indies, and pomplemoses at
                        <placeName>Batavia</placeName> and the adjacent <placeName>East-Indian
                        isles</placeName>. Their shape was perfectly globular, their size almost as
                     large as a child's head, and their taste extremely pleasant.</p>

                  <p n="402">On both sides of the lawn we took notice of a fence or enclosure made
                     of reeds, diagonally plaited in an elegant taste. A door, which consisted of
                     several boards, and was hung on a rope instead of hinges, gave admittance into
                     a plantation on each side. We separated, in order to examine this beautiful
                     country, and at every step had reason to be well pleased with our discoveries.
                     The door was so contrived as to shut after us without any assistance, and the
                     enclosures were over-run with climbers, and especially a bind-weed, having
                     flowers of a beautiful sky-blue. The prospect now changed into an extensive
                     garden, where we saw a number of tufted shaddock-trees, tall coco-palms, many
                     bananas, and a few bread-fruit trees. In the midst of this spot the path led us
                     to a dwelling-house, like that on the lawn, surrounded by a great variety of
                     shrubs in blossom, whose fragrance filled the air. We roamed through these
                     bushes, and collected a variety of plants which we had never met with in the
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>. The inhabitants seemed to be of a more
                     active and industrious disposition than those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and instead of following us in great crouds
                     wherever we went, left us entirely by ourselves, unless we entreated them to
                     accompany us. In that case we could venture to go with our pockets open, unless
                     we had nails in them, upon which they set so great a value that they could not
                     always resist the temptation. We passed through more than ten adjacent
                     plantations or gardens, separated by enclosures, communicating with each other
                     by means of the doors before mentioned. In each of them we commonly met with a
                     house, of which the inhabitants were absent. Their attention to separate their
                     property seemed to argue a higher degree of civilization than we had expected.
                     Their arts, manufactures, and music were all more cultivated, complicated, and
                     elegant than at the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>. But, in return, the
                     opulence, or rather luxury, of the Taheitians seemed to be much greater. We saw
                     but few hogs and fowls here, and that great support of life, the bread-tree,
                     appeared to be very scarce. Yams, therefore, and other roots, together with
                     bananas, are their principal articles of diet. Their cloathing too, compared to
                     that of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, was less plentiful, or at least not
                     converted into such an article of luxury as at that island. Lastly, their
                     houses, though neatly constructed, and always placed in a fragrant shrubbery,
                     were less roomy and convenient. We made these reflections as we advanced
                     towards the landing place, where several hundred natives were assembled; and
                     their appearance immediately struck us with the idea, that if they did not
                     enjoy so great a profusion of the gifts of nature as the Taheitians, those
                     gifts were perhaps distributed to all with greater equality. We advanced among
                     them, and were accosted with caresses by old and young, by men and women. They
                     hugged us very heartily, and frequently kissed our hands, laying them on the
                     breast, with the most expressive looks of affection that can be imagined. The
                     general stature of the men was equal to our middle size, from five feet three
                     to five feet ten inches. The proportions of the body were very fine, and the
                     contours of the limbs extremely elegant, though something more muscular than at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, which may be owing to a greater and more
                     constant exertion of strength in their agriculture and œconomy. Their features
                     were extremely mild and pleasing, and differed from the Taheitian faces, in
                     being more oblong than round; the nose sharper, and the lips rather thinner.
                     Their hair was generally black and strongly curled, and the beard shaven or
                     rather clipt by means of a couple of sharp muscle shells, (<hi rend="italics">mytili</hi>). The women were, in general, a few inches shorter than the
                     men, but not so small as the lower class of women at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                     Isles</placeName>. Their body was exquisitely proportioned down to the waist,
                     and their hands and arms were to the full as delicate as those of the Taheitian
                     women; but like them they had such large feet and legs as did not harmonize
                     with the rest. Their features, though without regularity, were as agreeable as
                     we had in general observed them at the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>;
                     but we recollected many individuals there, especially of the principal
                     families, to which none of these could be compared. The complexion of both
                     sexes here was the same, a light chestnut-brown, which had commonly the
                     appearance of perfect health. That difference of colour and corpulence, by
                     which we immediately distinguished the ranks at
                     <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, was not to be met with in this island. The
                     chief, who had visited us on board and accompanied us to the shore, was in
                     nothing different from the common people, not even in his dress; it was only
                     from the obedience which was paid to this orders that we concluded his quality.
                     The custom of puncturing the skin and blacking it, was in full force among the
                     men, and their belly and loins were very strongly marked in configurations more
                     compounded than those of the Taheitians. The tenderest parts of the body were
                     not free from these punctures, the application of which, besides being very
                     painful, must be extremely dangerous on glandulous extremities, and justly
                     excited our astonishment.</p>

                  <p n="403">
                     <q>________ et picta pandit spectacula cauda! <persName>Hor</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="404">The women, however, were exempted from this custom of disfiguring
                     themselves, and had only a few black dots on their hands. But besides these,
                     both sexes had three spots on the arms, consisting of concentric circles of
                     punctures, without any blacking, which I have mentioned before. The men in
                     general went almost naked, having only a small bit of cloth round the loins.
                     Some, however, wore a dress nearly resembling that of the women. This was a
                     long piece of cloth made of bark, in the same manner as the Taheitee cloth, but
                     afterwards painted chequer-wise, or in patterns nearly resembling our painted
                     floor-cloths, and covered with a size, which turned the wet for a long while.
                     This they wrapped round their waist, the men nearly about their middle, the
                     women more immediately under the breast, and in both it commonly descended
                     below the knees. Instead of the cloth they likewise substituted mats, extremely
                     well wrought, in form resembling those of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and
                     sometimes, though rarely, covered even their shoulders and breasts with them.
                     The men frequently wore a string round their necks, from which a mother of
                     pearl shell hung down on the breast. The women often had loose necklaces,
                     consisting of several strings of small shells, intermixed with seeds, teeth of
                     fishes, and in the middle of all the round <hi rend="italics">operculum</hi>, or cover of a shell, as large as a crown-piece. Both their
                     ears were perforated, and sometimes with two holes, and a little cylinder cut
                     out of tortoise-shell or bone, was stuck through both the holes. Sometimes
                     these cylinders were only of reed, filled with a red solid substance, painted
                     and lacquered with different colours in regular compartments. The most singular
                     circumstance which we observed among these people was, that many of them wanted
                     the little finger on one and sometimes on both hands; the differences of sex or
                     age did not exempt them from this amputation; for even amongst the few
                     children, whom we saw running about naked, the greater part had already
                     suffered this loss. Only a few grown people, who had preserved both their
                     little fingers, were an exception to the general rule. We immediately
                     conjectured that the death of a near relation or friend might require these
                     strange mutilations, in the same manner as is customary among the Hottentots,
                     in <placeName>Africa</placeName>
                     <ref target="#edn114">
                        <note xml:id="edn114" anchored="true"> See <persName>Kolben's</persName>
                           account of the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>; also the <hi rend="italics">Recherches Philosophiques fur les Americains</hi>, par
                           M. Pauw, vol. II, p.224, 229. </note>
                     </ref>; the Guaranos, in <placeName>Paraguay</placeName>; and the Californians;
                     and our enquiries, though unsuccessful at first, afterwards confirmed the
                     conjecture. Another singularity, which we observed to be very general among
                     these people, was a round spot on each cheek-bone, which appeared to have been
                     burnt or blistered. Some had it quite recent, in others it was covered with a
                     scurf, and many had a very slight mark of its former existence. We could never
                     learn how and for what purpose it was made; but we supposed it could only be
                     used like the Japanese <hi rend="italics">moxa</hi>, as a remedy against
                     various complaints.</p>

                  <p n="405">Notwithstanding the engaging manners of the natives, we foreshaw that
                     we should make but a very short stay among them, because our captains could not
                     obtain refreshments in any considerable quantity; which might be owing not so
                     much to their scarcity upon the island, as to the difficulty of making our
                     goods current for such valuable articles, when they could obtain them in
                     exchange for arms and utensils. They had brought indeed a few yams, bananas,
                     coco-nuts, and shaddocks for sale, but they soon dropt that branch of trade.
                     Our people purchased an incredible number of fish hooks made of mother of
                     pearl, barbed with tortoise-shell, but in shape exactly resembling the
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> fish-hooks, called witte-witte<ref target="#edn115">
                        <note xml:id="edn115" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 218. Also <persName>Parkinson's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Journal</hi>, p. 77, and Tab. XIII. fig. 25.
                        </note>
                     </ref>; some of which were near seven inches long. They likewise bought their
                     shells, which hung on the breast, their necklaces, bracelets of mother of
                     pearl, and cylindrical sticks for the ear. They had the neatest ornamental
                     combs that can be imagined, consisting of a number of little flat sticks about
                     five inches long, of a yellow wood like box, most firmly and elegantly
                     connected together at the bottom by a tissue of the fibres of coco-nut, some of
                     which were of their natural colour, and others dyed black. These fibres were
                     likewise employed in making a great variety of baskets, wrought with regular
                     compartments of two colours, brown and black, or sometimes all brown, and
                     ornamented with rows of round flat beads, which were made by cutting pieces of
                     shells into that shape. The taste and the workmanship of these baskets were
                     elegant in the highest degree, and varied into different forms and patterns.
                     Those little stools, which serve as pillows for the head, were much more
                     frequent here than at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; flattish bowls, in which
                     they place their meat, and spatulas with which they mix up the bread-fruit
                     paste, were likewise in great abundance, and made of the club-wood (<hi rend="italics">casuarina equistifeolia</hi>), which had this name from
                     supplying all the islanders in the South Sea with weapons. The clubs of the
                     people of this isle, were of an infinite variety of shapes, and many of them so
                     ponderous that we could scarce manage them with one hand; the most common form
                     was quadrangular, so as to make a rhomboid at the broad end, and gradually
                     tapering into a round handle at the other. But many were spatulated, flattish,
                     and pointed: some had long handles and a blade which resembled the blade of a
                     fleam; others were crooked, knobbed, &amp;c. But by far the greatest part were
                     carved all over in many chequered patterns, which seemed to have required a
                     long space of time, and incredible patience, especially when we consider, that
                     a sharp stone, or a piece of coral, are the only tools which the natives can
                     employ in this kind of work. All the different compartments were wrought and
                     divided with a regularity which quite surprised us, and the whole surface of
                     the plain clubs was as highly polished, as if our best workmen had made them
                     with the best instruments. Besides clubs, they had spears of the same wood,
                     which were sometimes plain, sharp-pointed sticks, and sometimes barbed with a
                     sting-ray's tail. They had likewise bows and arrows, of a peculiar
                     construction. The bow which was six feet long, was about the thickness of a
                     little finger, and when slack, formed a slight curve. Its convex part was
                     channelled with a single deep groove, in which the bow string was lodged, and
                     which was likewise big enough sometimes to contain the arrow made of reed, near
                     six feet long, and pointed with hard wood. When the bow was to be bent, instead
                     of drawing it so as to encrease the natural curvature, they drew it the
                     contrary way, made it perfectly strait, and then formed the curve on the other
                     side. The bow-string by this means never needed to be tense, as the arrow
                     received sufficient moment by changing the natural bent of the bow; the recoil
                     of which was never violent enough to hurt the arm. Our seamen, unacquainted
                     with the nature of these weapons, broke several of them by drawing them like
                     other bows. The immense quantity of arms belonging to the natives, corresponded
                     very ill with the pacific disposition, which had strongly shone through their
                     whole behaviour towards us, and which still manifested itself in their
                     readiness to dispose of them. It is probable that they have sometimes quarrels
                     amongst themselves, or wage war with the neighbouring islands, but we could by
                     no means discover any thing from their conversation or signs, which might have
                     served to throw a light on this subject. The several articles above enumerated,
                     together with all their sorts of cloth, their elegant mats, which for
                     workmanship and variety excelled even those of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>,
                     and a great many other trifles too tedious to mention, they brought to sell,
                     and with great eagerness exchanged for small nails, and sometimes for beads.
                     But in respect of the latter their taste was different from that of the
                     Taheitians; for the latter always chose those that were transparent, but the
                     people of Ea-oowhe would take no other than black opaque beads, with red, blue,
                     and white stripes. We traded with them till dinner-time, and then re-embarked
                     in order to return on board the ships; but were obliged to sit down contented
                     with the loss of a grapnel, which the natives had contrived to steal almost as
                     soon as it was let down into the water. Their kind looks and acclamations
                     followed us till we returned on board, where a number of them traded in their
                     canoes with the same sorts of goods which we had purchased on shore. We saw
                     several persons among them afflicted with leprous complaints, in some of which
                     the disorder had risen to a high degree of virulence; one man in particular had
                     his whole back and shoulders covered with a large cancerous ulcer, which was
                     perfectly livid within, and of a bright yellow all round the edges. A woman was
                     likewise unfortunate enough to have all her face destroyed by it in the most
                     shocking manner; there was only a hole left in the place of her nose; her
                     cheeks were swelled up and continually oozing out a purulent matter; and her
                     eyes seemed ready to fall out of her head, being bloody and sore. These were
                     some of the most miserable objects I recollect ever to have seen; and yet they
                     seemed to be quite unconcerned about their misfortunes, traded as briskly as
                     any of the rest, and what was most nauseous, had provisions to sell.</p>

                  <p n="406">After dinner <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> remained on board with
                     me, in order to arrange our acquisitions of the morning, and my father again
                     accompanied the captains to the shore, with a view to collect a fresh supply.
                     They returned about sun-set, and my father gave the following account of this
                     excursion.</p>

                  <p n="407">" At the landing-place the natives welcomed us with shouts as in the
                     morning, and the croud being as numerous as ever, the trade was carried on very
                     briskly, but provisions were scarce, and shaddocks in particular not at all to
                     be had, as the season was not yet sufficiently advanced. <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName>, myself, and one servant, left the trading place with two
                     of the natives, whom we engaged to become our guides in case of necessity, and
                     walked up the hill to view the interior part of the country. Our walk lay
                     through a number of rich plantations or gardens, enclosed as before mentioned
                     with fences of reeds, or with quick-hedges of the beautiful coral flower,
                        (<hi rend="italics">erythrina corallodendron</hi>). Beyond these we
                     entered into a lane between two enclosures, and observed bananas and yams
                     planted in rows on both sides, with as much order and regularity as we employ
                     in our agriculture. This lane opened into a fine extensive plain, covered with
                     rich grasses. Having crossed it, we met with a most delightful walk about a
                     mile in length, formed of four rows of coco-nut trees, which ended in another
                     lane between plantations of great regularity, surrounded by shaddocks and other
                     trees. It led through a cultivated valley to a spot where several paths crossed
                     each other or met in one. Here we saw a fine lawn covered with a delicate green
                     tuf, and surrounded by large shady trees on all sides. In one corner of it
                     there was a house, which was empty at present, its inhabitants being probably
                     by the water's side. <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> sat down to draw this
                     delightful spot. We breathed the most delicious air in the world, fraught with
                     odours which might have revived a dying man; the sea-breeze played with our
                     hair and gently cooled us; a number of small birds twittered on all sides, and
                     many amorous doves cooed harmoniously in the deepest shade of the tree under
                     which we were seated. The tree was remarkable for its roots, which came out of
                     the stem near eight feet above the ground, and for its pods of more than a yard
                     long, and two or three inches broad. This secluded spot, so rich in the best
                     productions of nature, where we sat solitary with no other human being besides
                     our two natives, struck us with the idea of enchanted ground, which being the
                     creation of our own gay fancy, is commonly adorned with all possible beauties
                     at once. In fact, there could not have been a more desirable spot for a little
                     place of retirement, according to the elegant imagination of Horace, if it had
                     only been supplied with a crystal fountain or a little murmuring rill! But
                     water is unfortunately the only blessing denied this charming little island. To
                     the left of this spot we discovered a shady walk, that brought us to another
                     grassy lawn, at the bottom of which we perceived a little mount with two huts
                     upon it. A number of reeds stuck into the ground, at the distance of one foot
                     asunder, encompassed this rising, and several casuarinas, with their slender
                     branches and thread-like leaves, were planted before it. The natives, whom we
                     had engaged to accompany us, would not approach this mount; but we advanced and
                     looked into the huts, though with great difficulty, because the bottom of the
                     roof was not above a span from the ground. We found a corse in one of these
                     huts, which had been lately deposited; but the other was empty. Thus the
                     casuarina or club-wood (<hi rend="italics">tòa</hi>), here, as in the
                     Society Islands, pointed out the repositories of the dead. Its dull
                     brownish-green colour, and its long spreading branches, where the leaves are
                     thinly scattered and hang weeping down, certainly become these melancholy
                     places to the full as well as the funereal cypress. It is therefore probable
                     that the same train of ideas, which consecrated the latter in one part of the
                     world to shade the tombs, might fix upon the former in these regions for a
                     similar purpose. The mount on which the huts were placed was formed of small
                     pieces of coral rock, like gravel, accumulated without any particular order.
                     From thence we proceeded a little farther, and still found the same elegant
                     plantations and the same kind of houses in the middle as before. Our natives
                     conducted us through one of them, where they entreated us to sit down, and
                     procured some coco nuts, which proved extremely refreshing. At our return we
                     found our boats just ready to put off, and embarked with them immediately. We
                     had only seen a few of the natives on our walk, who passed unconcernedly by us
                     towards the place were the captains traded; and I believe we should have been
                     entirely left to ourselves if we had not engaged two of them to become our
                     conductors. The discharge of our guns, and their effect, neither excited their
                     admiration nor their fear; but they always appeared kind and courteous towards
                     us. Their women were, in general, reserved, and turned with disgust from the
                     immodest behaviour of ungovernable seamen, some of them however, appeared to be
                     of easy virtue, and beckoned to our people with lascivious gestures." </p>

                  <p n="408">The next morning early the captain went on shore with us, and presented
                     the chief with a variety of garden seeds, explaining by signs how useful they
                     would prove to him. This was a yet our only mode of conversation, though we had
                     picked up a number of words, which, by the help of the principles of universal
                     grammar, and the idea of dialects, we easily perceived had a great affinity
                     with the language spoken at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>. <persName>O-Mai</persName> and
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> (or <persName>O-Hedeède</persName>), the two
                     natives of <placeName>Raietea</placeName> and <placeName>Borabora</placeName>
                     who embarked with us, at first declared that the language was totally new and
                     unintelligible to them; however, when we explained to them the affinity of
                     several words, they presently caught the peculiar modification of this dialect,
                     and conversed much better with the natives than we could have done after a long
                     intercourse with them. They were extremely well pleased with this country, but
                     soon perceived its defects, and told us there was but scanty provision of
                     bread-fruit, few hogs and fowls, and no dogs, which was really the case. In
                     return, however, they liked the abundance of sugar-canes and of intoxicating
                     pepper, of which the drink had been offered to <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>.</p>

                  <p n="409">As soon as the captains had delivered their present, they returned to
                     the ships, and the chief came on board with us. Our anchor was weighed, our
                     sails were spread to the wind, and we forsook this happy island when he had
                     scarce discovered its beauties. The chief, after selling a number of fish-hooks
                     for nails and beads, hailed one of the canoes which were passing by, and left
                     us with looks which spoke his friendly, open disposition.</p>

                  <p n="410">We now sailed along the western shore of <persName>Tasman's</persName>
                     <placeName>Amsterdam island</placeName>, which the natives called
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> and found it a very low flat land,
                     compared with that which we had left. The middle of this island is nearly in
                        <geo select="lat">21° 11'S</geo>. latitude, and <geo select="lon">175°
                        W</geo>. longitude. Its highest elevation above the level of the sea,
                     appeared to the eye never to exceed six or seven yards perpendicular. On the
                     other hand, its extent was much more considerable than that of
                        <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>, and by the help of our spying-glasses, we
                     discovered the same regular plantations which we had so much admired there, and
                     saw the shores crouded with inhabitants, who gazed at us, probably with as much
                     attention as we bestowed upon them. When we were about half way between both
                     islands, or nearly three leagues from each, we were met by several canoes full
                     of men, who attempted to come along-side, but as we happened to be too far to
                     windward, they could only fetch the Adventure, where they came on board.</p>

                  <p n="411">In the afternoon we approached the northernmost end of the island, and
                     perceived some small isles connected by reefs to the eastward. Their situation
                     and that of the shoal to the north-west, where the sea broke with great
                     violence, convinced us that we were now arrived at the very place where
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> ancored in 1643, and which he called
                        <placeName>Van Diemen's Road</placeName>. Here we dropped an anchor upon a
                     rocky bank, and were immediately surrounded with numbers of the natives, some
                     in canoes, and some swimming, though we lay about a quarter of a mile from the
                     shore. We found them to be of the same nation which inhabited
                        <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>, and their mercantile turn prompted them to
                     bring an immense quantity of their cloth, mats, nets, utensils, arms, and
                     ornaments, which they eagerly exchanged for beads and nails. The ships were no
                     sooner moored, than a prohibition was made against purchasing curiosities, and
                     the natives were told to bring coco-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, and bananas, as
                     well as hogs and fowls, of which we had already learnt the names. We purchased
                     a small quantity of provisions the same evening, to give an example to the rest
                     of the inhabitants, who were obliged to take their merchandize on shore again.
                     The good effects of this step appeared the next morning, when the natives
                     returned from shore at day-break, and had loaded their canoes with vegetables
                     and fowls. Many of them came on board as freely as if we had been old
                     acquaintances, and did not appear to have the least idea of distrust. One of
                     them, a well made man, with a handsome open countenance, seemed to have some
                     authority among them, like the chief whom we had seen on
                        <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>. He descended into the cabin, acquainted us
                     that his name was <persName>Attahha</persName>, and received several presents,
                     among which he sat a high value on iron, and on red European broad-cloth. After
                     breakfast he went on shore with us in the pinnace. A coral reef surrounded the
                     coast, at the distance of a musket-shot, and a single narrow pass admitted us
                     within it, were we found the water so full of rocks and so shallow, that we
                     were obliged to be carried out of the boat. A party of the marines were posted
                     on the beach in case of danger, to protect the captain's clerk, who traded for
                     provisions. The natives did not express either surprize or dislike at this
                     proceeding, perhaps because they were unacquainted with its meaning. They
                     received us with acclamations of joy as at <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>, and
                     desired us to sit down with them on the rocks along shore, which consisted of
                     coral, and were covered with shell sand. We purchased several beautiful
                     parroquets, pigeons, and doves, which they brought to us perfectly tame; and
                     our young Borabora-man <persName>Mahine</persName> (or Hedèedee) traded with
                     great eagerness for ornaments made of bright red feathers, which he assured us
                     had an extraordinary value at Taheitee and the Society Islands. Here they were
                     commonly pasted to aprons used in their dances, and made of the fibres of
                     coco-nut, or fixed upon banana leaves, forming rhomboidal frontlets or diadems,
                     &amp;c. With a degree of extasy which gave the greatest weight to his
                     assertion, he shewed us that a little piece of feathered-work, as broad as two
                     or three fingers, would purchase the largest hog in his island. Both this youth
                     and O-Mai were much pleased with the inhabitants of these islands, and began to
                     understand their language tolerably well.</p>

                  <p n="412">We left the beach after the first acquaintance with the natives, and
                     ascended a few feet into a wild forest consisting of tall trees, intermixed
                     with shrubberies. This wood though narrow, being in many places not above one
                     hundred yards wide, was continued along the shore of <placeName>Van Diemen's
                        road</placeName>, being more or less open in various parts. Beyond it the
                     whole island was perfectly level. We walked across a piece of uncultivated
                     land, about five hundred yards wide, which adjoined to the wood. Part of it
                     appeared to have been planted with yams, but the rest was full of grass, and
                     had a little swamp in the middle, where the purple water-hen, or <hi rend="italics">poule sultane</hi>, resided in great numbers. As soon as we
                     left this, we entered into a lane about six feet wide, between two fences of
                     reed, which enclosed extensive plantations on each side. Here we met many of
                     the natives, who were travelling to the beach with loads of provisions, and
                     courteously bowed their heads as they passed by us in sign of friendship,
                     generally pronouncing some monosyllable or other, which seemed to correspond to
                     the Taheitian <hi rend="italics">tayo</hi>. The enclosures, plantations, and
                     houses were exactly in the same style as at <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>,
                     and the people had never failed to plant odoriferous shrubs round their
                     dwellings. The mulberry, of which the bark is manufactured into cloth, and the
                     bread-tree, were more scarce than at the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>,
                     and the apple of those islands was entirely unknown, but the shaddock well
                     supplied its place. The season of spring, which revived the face of all nature,
                     adorning every plant with blossoms, and inspiring with joyful songs the
                     feathered tribe, doubtless contributed in a great measure to make every object
                     pleasing in our eyes. But the industry and elegance of the natives, which they
                     displayed in planting every piece of ground to the greatest advantage, as well
                     as in the neatness and regularity of all their works, demanded our admiration,
                     whilst it gave us room to suppose, that they enjoyed a considerable degree of
                     happiness.</p>

                  <p n="413">One of the lanes between the enclosures led us to a little grove, which
                     we admired for its irregularity. An immense casuarina tree far out-topped the
                     rest, and its branches were loaded with a vast number of blackish creatures,
                     which we took for crows at a distance, but which proved to be bats when we came
                     nearer. They clung to the twigs, by the hooked claws, which are at the
                     extremity of their webbed fingers and toes; sometimes they hung with the head
                     downwards, and sometimes the reverse. We shot at them, and brought down six or
                     eight at once, besides wounding several others which held fast on the tree.
                     They were of the kind which is commonly called the vampyre<ref target="#edn116">
                        <note xml:id="edn116" anchored="true"> La Rougette, of <persName>M. de
                              Buffon</persName>. Vampyrus of <persName>Linné</persName>, and
                              <persName>Pennant</persName>. </note>
                     </ref>, and measured from three to four feet between the expanded wings. A
                     great number of them were disturbed at our firing, and flew from the tree very
                     heavily, uttering a shrill piping note; some likewise arrived from remote parts
                     at intervals to the tree, but the greatest number remained in their position,
                     and probably go out to feed only by night. As they live chiefly upon fruit, it
                     is likely that they commit great depredations in the orchards of the natives,
                     some of whom being present when we fired, seemed very well pleased with the
                     death of their enemies. We had seen some of them who had caught these bats
                     alive, and placed them in a cage of wickerwork very ingeniously contrived, with
                     an entrance like that of a fish-basket, where the animal could easily be put
                     in, but could not come out again. They likewise assured us the bats were very
                     mordacious, for which purpose they seemed indeed to be well provided with large
                     sharp teeth.</p>

                  <p n="414">We had already observed at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, at the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, and even at
                        <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>, that wherever we met with a casuarina, a
                     burying-place was at hand. Therefore, at sight of this venerable tree, which
                     was hung with ill-omened creatures, we immediately conjectured that it would
                     lead us to a cemetery or place of worship, and the event shewed that we were
                     not mistaken. We found a beautiful green lawn, enclosed on all sides by shady
                     bushes and trees, amongst which casuarinas, pandangs, and wild sago-palms
                     appeared with their various tints of green. A row of Barringtonias, as big as
                     the loftiest oaks, formed one side of it, and strewed it with their large
                     blushing flowers. At the upper end of it, there was a rising two or three feet
                     high, set out with coral-stones cut square. The area above was covered with a
                     green sod, like the rest of the lawn. Two steps, likewise of coral rock, led up
                     to this part, in the midst of which a house was situated, exactly like that
                     which we saw at <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>. Its length was about twenty,
                     the breadth fifteen, and the height of the ridge ten feet. The roof descended
                     sloping nearly to the ground, and was made of banana leaves. We entered into
                     this building with only one of the natives, the rest keeping at some distance.
                     We found the floor covered with broken pieces of white coral rock, and in one
                     corner a heap of blackish pebbles, about eight feet long, which was elevated a
                     foot above the white stones. The native told us that a man lay buried there,
                     and pointing to the place where his little finger had formerly been cut away,
                     he plainly signified that when his <hi rend="italics">maduas</hi> or
                        parents<ref target="#edn117">
                        <note xml:id="edn117" anchored="true"> Perhaps any relations in the
                           ascending line. </note>
                     </ref> died, they mutilated their hands. We found two pieces of wood a foot
                     long, carved into some resemblance of the human figure, like those which are
                     called <hi rend="italics">e-tee</hi> at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but
                     they were treated in the same manner, that is without the least degree of
                     respect or veneration, being frequently trod upon and kicked about. These
                     burying-places, which are called <hi rend="italics">a-Fayetooca</hi> in the
                     language of the country, are always delightfully situated on green lawns, and
                     surrounded withe the finest groves. That which I have here described, was drawn
                     by <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, and an exact representation of it is
                     inserted in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> own account of this voyage.</p>

                  <p n="415">We continued our walk through the plantations, and met with very few
                     inhabitants, they being almost all gone towards the trading-place. Those we saw
                     passed by us, or continued their occupations without stopping on our account.
                     Neither curiosity, nor distrust and jealousy excited them to prohibit our
                     farther progress; on the contrary, they always spoke in a kind tone to us,
                     which sufficiently characterized their disposition. We looked into many of the
                     houses and found them empty, but always laid out with mats, and delightfully
                     situated among odoriferous shrubs. Sometimes they were separated from the
                     plantations by a little fence, through which a door, like those of
                        <placeName>Ea‑oowhe</placeName>, gave admittance, which could be shut on the
                     inside. In that case only the area, which this fence enclosed around the hut,
                     was planted with the odoriferous grove, which is so much in request with the
                     natives. A walk of three miles brought us to the eastern shore of the island,
                     where it forms a deep angle, which <persName>Tasman</persName> called
                        <placeName>Maria Bay</placeName>. Where we fell in with it, the ground
                     sloped imperceptibly into a sandy beach; but as we walked along towards the
                     north point, we found it rose perpendicularly, and in some places it was
                     excavated and overhanging. It consisted, however, entirely of coral, which is a
                     strong proof of some great change on our globe, as this rock can only be formed
                     under water. Whether it was left bare by a gradual diminution of the sea, or
                     perhaps by a more violent revolution which our earth may formerly have
                     suffered, I shall not venture to determine. So much, however, may be assumed as
                     a certainty, that if we suppose a gradual diminution of the sea, at the rate
                     which they pretend to have observed in <placeName>Sweden<ref target="#edn118">
                           <note xml:id="edn118" anchored="true"> See the <hi rend="italics">Memoirs</hi> of the Swedish Academy of Sciences at
                                 <placeName>Stockholm</placeName>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, the emersion of this island must be of so modern date, that it is
                     matter of astonishment how it came to be covered with soil, herbage, and
                     forests: so well stocked with inhabitants, and so regularly adorned as we
                     really found it. We picked up a quantity of shells at the foot of the steep
                     rock, where we sometimes waded in water to the knees upon a reef, on account of
                     the flood tide which was advancing. We likewise met with several natives
                     returning from the trading-place, who sold us a number of fish-hooks and
                     ornaments, a fish-net made like our casting-nets, knit of very firm though
                     slender threads, some mats and pieces of cloth. We likewise purchased of them
                     an apron, consisting of many wheels or stars of plaited coco-nut fibres, about
                     three or four inches in diameter, cohering together by the projecting points,
                     and ornamented with small red feathers and beads cut out of shells. Finding
                     that the water encreased too fast upon us, we looked out for an ascent to the
                     top of the rock, and having with some difficulty found one, we re-entered the
                     plantations, where we observed the weeds rooted out with great care and laid in
                     heaps to dry. After a long walk, during which we missed our way, and engaged
                     one of the natives to become our guide, we entered a long narrow lane between
                     two fences, which led us directly to the <hi rend="italics">Fayetòoca</hi>
                     or burying-place we had left before. Here we found captains
                        <persName>Cook</persName> and <persName>Furneaux</persName>, and
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, with a great number of natives, seated on
                     the fine lawn. They were in conversation with an old blear-eyed man, who had a
                     good deal of weight among the rest of the people, and was always accompanied by
                     a number of them wherever he went. We were told that he had conducted our
                     gentlemen to two <hi rend="italics">fayetòocas</hi>, and had pronounced a
                     solemn speech or prayer, with his face directed to the building, but at times
                     turning to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and addressing the words to him,
                     in a questioning tone. In these moments he always made a short pause, as if he
                     expected an answer, and seeing a nod ensue, proceeded with his speech.
                     Sometimes, however, his memory seemed to fail, upon which he was prompted by
                     another man who sat near him. From this ceremony, and the place where it was
                     performed, we conjectured that he was a priest. However, as far as we could see
                     into their religious notions, it did not appear that they practised any kind of
                     idolatry; neither did they seem to have any particular veneration for birds
                     like the Taheitians, but to worship a supreme invisible Being. What may have
                     induced them, as well as the people of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>, to unite their repositories of the
                     dead and their places of worship in one, remains in obscurity. The religious
                     tenets of a people are the last things which strangers become acquainted with,
                     whose knowledge of the language is commonly too imperfect. Besides this, the
                     dialect of the church frequently differs from the common dialect, and thus
                     religion is veiled in mysteries, especially where there are priests to take
                     advantage of the credulity of mankind.</p>

                  <p n="416">From this place we returned to the sea shore, where a brisk trade for
                     vegetables, fowls, and hogs was carried on. Here we bought a large flat shield
                     or breast-plate, of a roundish bone, white and polished like ivory, about
                     eighteen inches in diameter, which appeared to have belonged to an animal of
                     the cetaceous tribe. We likewise found a new musical instrument, consisting of
                     eight, nine, or ten slender reeds, about nine inches long, joined to each other
                     by some fibres of coco-nut core. The length of its reeds seldom varied much,
                     and the long and short ones were placed promiscuously; a notch was formed at
                     the top of each, and the method of playing was only to slide the instrument
                     backwards and forwards along the lips. It had commonly not above four or five
                     different notes, and we never met with one which included a whole octave. Its
                     resemblance to the syrinx, or Pan's flute of the civilized Greeks, dignified it
                     much more than any music which it contained. From the method of playing it, the
                     lovers of music will easily conceive that this divine art is entirely in its
                     infancy among the inhabitants. The vocal part, which is the same as we had
                     already observed it at <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>, is very far from being
                     unharmonious, and the women beat time to it by snapping their fingers very
                     exactly; but its whole extent is only of four notes, and therefore cannot admit
                     of any variety. They had likewise a flute of a bamboo-reed, nearly of the
                     thickness of a German flute, which they played with the nostrils, like the
                     Taheitians. They commonly had ornamented it with various little figures, burnt
                     in, and pierced four or five holes in it, whereas the Taheitian flute had but
                     three in all. The method of ornamenting wood by burning figures into it, was
                     frequently observed in their bowls and various other utensils.</p>

                  <p n="417">It was near sun-set when we returned on board with our collection, and
                     found the vessels still surrounded by many canoes, and the natives swimming
                     about extremely vociferous. Among them were a considerable number of women, who
                     wantoned in the water like amphibious creatures, and were easily persuaded to
                     come on board, perfectly naked, without professing greater chastity than the
                     common women at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>. Our seamen took advantage of their disposition, and once
                     more offered to our eyes a scene worthy of the Cyprian temples. A shirt, a
                     small piece of cloth, nay a few beads, were sometimes sufficient temptations,
                     for which some of the women of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, prostituted
                     themselves without any sense of shame. This lubricity was, however, very far
                     from being general, and we had reason to believe that not a single married
                     woman was guilty of infidelity. If we had been acquainted with the distinction
                     of ranks as at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, it is highly probable, that we
                     should have observed no other prostitutes than such as belonged to the lowest
                     class of people. Still it remains an unaccountable singularity in the character
                     of the nations of this part of our globe, that they suffer any of their
                     unmarried women to admit the promiscuous embraces of a multitude of lovers. Can
                     they imagine, that after giving such an unlimited course to the impulses of
                     nature, they will make better wives, than the innocent and the chaste? But it
                     is in vain that we endeavour to find reasons for the arbitrary whims of
                     mankind. Their opinions in respect of the sex in particular, have been
                     infinitely various in all ages and countries. In some parts of India, no man of
                     consequence will condescend to marry a virgin; in <placeName>Europe</placeName>
                     she who has lost that character is universally rejected. Turks, Arabs, Tartars,
                     and Russians are jealous even of an imaginary characteristic of virginity,
                     which the native of Malabar bestows upon his Idol.</p>

                  <p n="418">None of these women ventured to stay on board after sun set, but
                     returned to the shore to pass the night, like the greater part of the
                     inhabitants, under the shade of the wild wood which lined the coast. There they
                     lighted numerous fires, and were heard conversing during the greatest part of
                     the night. It seems their eagerness to continue the trade with us, would not
                     permit them to return to their dwellings, which were probably situated in the
                     remotest part of the island. Our goods were in great repute with them. Nails,
                     which the natives commonly hung on a string round the neck, or stuck through
                     the ear, were very current for fowls, and smaller ones for bunches of bananas,
                     and coco-nuts. Their fowls were the largest we had ever seen, and extremely
                     well-tasted. Their plumage was commonly very glossy, and beautifully coloured
                     with red and gold. Our sailors bought numbers of them, in order to enjoy the
                     barbarous amusement of seeing them fight. From the time of our leaving
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, they had daily followed the cruel occupation
                     of tormenting these poor birds, by trimming their wings, and incensing them
                     against each other. They had so well succeeded with those of
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, that some of them fought with the most
                     desperate fury of true game-cocks; but they were well disappointed with those
                     which they purchased at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and as they could
                     not make them fight, they were forced to eat them in revenge.</p>

                  <p n="419">
                     <date>[Tuesday 5.]</date>Early the next morning, the captain's friend
                        <persName>Attahha</persName> or <persName>Attagha</persName> (see p.447.)
                     came on board in one of the first canoes, and breakfasted with us. He was drest
                     in mats, one of which, on account of the coolness of the morning, he had drawn
                     over his shoulders. He resembled all other uncivilized people in the
                     circumstance that his attention could not be fixed to one object for any space
                     of time, and it was difficult to prevail on him to sit still, whilst
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> drew his portrait. An excellent print,
                     executed by <persName>Mr. Sherwin</persName>, has been made from his drawing,
                     which expresses the countenance of this chief, and the mild character of the
                     whole nation, better than any description. It is inserted in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage, and represents
                        <persName>Attahha</persName> in the action of thanksgiving, laying a nail on
                     his head, which he had received as a present. After breakfast, the captains and
                     my father prepared to return to the shore with him; but just as he was going
                     out of the cabin, he happened to see a Taheitian dog running about the deck; at
                     this sight he could not conceal his joy, but clapped his hands on his breast,
                     and turning to the captain, repeated the word <hi rend="italics">goorree<ref target="#edn119">
                           <note xml:id="edn119" anchored="true">
                              <hi rend="italics">Ooree</hi> signifies a dog at
                                 <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; and <hi rend="italics">ghooree</hi> at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </hi> near twenty times. We were much surprised to hear that he knew the name
                     of an animal which did not exist in his country, and made him a present of one
                     of each sex, with which he went on shore in an extasy of joy. That the name of
                     dogs should be familiar to a people, who are not possessed of them, seems to
                     prove either that this knowledge has been propagated by tradition from their
                     ancestors, who migrated hither from other islands, and from the continent; or
                     that they have had dogs upon their island, of which the race, by some accident,
                     is become extinct; or lastly, that they still have an intercourse with other
                     islands where these animals exist.</p>

                  <p n="420">I remained on board all this day, to arrange the collection of plants
                     and birds which we had made upon our first excursion, and which was far from
                     despicable, considering the small size of the island. The natives continued to
                     croud about our vessels in a number of canoes, whilst many were swimming to and
                     from the shore, who were probably not rich enough to possess a canoe. These
                     embarkations were of different construction. The common small trading-canoes
                     were sharp-bottomed, and ended in a sharp edge at each extremity, which was
                     covered with a board or deck, because their narrow form frequently exposed
                     these parts to an entire submersion, which would have filled them with water
                     without this precaution. They commonly had a slight out-rigger or balancer,
                     made of a few poles, to prevent their oversetting. The body of the canoe
                     consisted of several planks, of a hard brown wood, sewed together with strings
                     made of the fibrous coco-nut core, and so artfully joined that they appeared to
                     be remarkably tight. The Taheitians simply bore holes in each plank, through
                     which they pass their strings; but by this means their canoes are always leaky.
                     At <placeName>Tongo-Tabboo</placeName> they dub the inside of the plank in such
                     a manner as to leave a projecting lift or rim close to the edge, and through
                     this they pass their threads. Along the deck or narrow board at each extremity
                     are placed seven or eight knobs, which seem to be an imitation of the little
                     fins, (<hi rend="italics">pinnulœ spuriœ</hi>) on the belly of bonitos,
                     albecores, or mackarels; and I cannot but conjecture that the natives have
                     taken these swift fishes for their models in the construction of their boats.
                     Though these canoes are commonly fifteen or eighteen feet long, yet they are as
                     neatly and smoothly polished as our best cabinet-work, which must appear the
                     more surprising when we consider that the tools of the natives are only
                     wretched bits of coral, and rasps made of the skins of rays. Their paddles were
                     equally well polished, of the same wood as the canoe, and had short rhomboidal
                     broad blades, like those of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The other sort of
                     canoes were constructed for sailing, and persons skilled in nautical matters
                     acknowledge that they were admirably well adapted for this purpose. We saw one
                     of them in <placeName>Maria Bay</placeName>, consisting of two joined together,
                     of which the planks were sewed in the same manner as in the common canoe; but
                     they were covered all over, and had a kind of elevated stage or platform, like
                     the Taheitian war-canoes<ref target="#edn120">
                        <note xml:id="edn120" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 221. </note>
                     </ref>. Some of them may carry one hundred and fifty men; and their sails,
                     which are latine, are made of strong mats, in which the rude figure of a
                     tortoise or a cock, &amp;c. is sometimes represented<ref target="#edn121">
                        <note xml:id="edn121" anchored="true"> The figure of a canoe in
                              <persName>Schouten's</persName> voyage, gives a very good idea of one
                           of the sailing-boats of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. See
                              <persName>Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Collection</hi>, vol. II. pag, 17, 18. </note>
                     </ref>. As a farther detail would be tedious to most readers, and instructive
                     only to mariners, I omit it in this place, and refer those who wish to be
                     better acquainted with the subject to the accurate figures with which
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> has ornamented <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage. I shall only observe, that it
                     appears probably from the good construction of the sailing-boats, that the
                     inhabitants of these islands are more experienced mariners than those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                     Isles</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="421">Among the great numbers of people who surrounded our ships, we observed
                     several whose hair seemed to be burnt at the ends, and were strewed with a
                     white powder. Upon examination we found that this powder was nothing else than
                     lime, made of shells or coral, which had corroded or burnt the hair. The taste
                     of powdering was at its height in this island. We observed a man who had
                     employed a blue powder, and many persons of both sexes who wore an orange
                     powder, made of turmerick. <persName>St. Jerom</persName>, who preached against
                     the vanities of the age, very seriously reprehends a similar custom in the
                     Roman ladies: " <hi rend="italics">Ne irrufet crines, et anticipet sibi ignes
                        Gehènnœ!</hi>" Thus, by an admirable similarity of follies, the modes of
                     the former inhabitants of <placeName>Europe</placeName> are in full force among
                     the modern antipodes; and our insipid beaux, whose only pride is the invention
                     of a new fashion, are forced to share that slender honour with the uncivilized
                     natives of an isle in the South Seas.</p>

                  <p n="422">My father did not return from his excursion till the evening, having
                     proceeded a considerable way towards the south end of the island. At noon a
                     smart shower had obliged him to retire into a plantation and to take shelter in
                     a house. Fortunately for him the owner of this cottage was at home, and
                     immediately invited him to sit down on the clean mats which covered the floor,
                     whilst he went to provide some refreshments. In a few moments he brought
                     several coco-nuts, and having opened his oven under ground, took out some
                     bananas and fishes, wrapped in leaves, which were perfectly well done and
                     delicious to the taste. The manner of cooking provisions is therefore exactly
                     the same as at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; nor are the natives less
                     inclinable to acts of hospitality and benevolence, though these virtues were
                     not so frequently exercised towards us, because we commonly found the country
                     quite deserted, the inhabitants being drawn together towards our trading-place.
                     The hospitable man was rewarded with nails and beads, with which he performed
                     the <hi rend="italics">fagafetai</hi>, by laying them on his head, and
                     accompanied my father back to the beach, carefully carrying a number of spears
                     and clubs for him, which he had purchased on the road.</p>

                  <p n="423">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 6.]</date>The harmless disposition of these good people could
                     not secure them against those misfortunes, which are too often attendant upon
                     all voyages of discovery. Our goods tempted them at least as much as they had
                     tempted the Taheitians, and they were consequently equally disposed to pilfer.
                     The captains had not been long on shore the next day, when one of the natives
                     took an opportunity of stealing a jacket out of our boat. In a few moments no
                     less than seven shot were fired, without the captain's orders, though in his
                     presence, at the thief, who first dived in the water, and at last ran into the
                     croud, by which means several innocent people were wounded. Notwithstanding
                     this severity, the good-nature of the people was such, that they did not
                     forsake the trading-place, or take umbrage at our proceeding, but heard with
                     unconcern the balls whistling about their ears. A few hours afterwards, one of
                     them was equally nimble on board our ship, and luckily slipping into the
                     master's cabin stole from thence several mathematical books, a sword, a ruler,
                     and a number of trifles of which he could never make the least use. He was seen
                     making his escape in a canoe, and a boat being dispatched after him, he threw
                     all the stolen effects overboard. These were picked up by another of our boats,
                     whilst the first continued in the pursuit of the thief. Our men fired a musket
                     into the stern of his canoe, upon which he and some others with him jumped into
                     the sea. The thief was still hunted with incredible eagerness, but displayed a
                     most wonderful agility, diving several times under the boat, and once
                     unshipping the rudder. At last one of our people darted the boat-hook at him,
                     and catching him under the ribs, dragged him into the boat; but he watched his
                     opportunity, and notwithstanding his loss of blood, leaped into the sea again,
                     and escaped to some canoes, which came from the shore to his assistance. It is
                     remarkable that even such a disposition for cruelty, as had been displayed in
                     the pursuit of this poor wretch, did not deprive us of the confidence and
                     affection of his country-men. The captains brought <persName>Attagha</persName>
                     and another chief on board with them to dinner, and the trade was carried on as
                     quietly as if nothing had happened. The chief who came with
                        <persName>Attagha</persName> appeared to be of a superior rank, because the
                     latter, who used to sit at table with us on former occasions, now retreated a
                     few steps, sat down on the floor, and could not be prevailed upon to eat in his
                     sight. He was a blear-eyed, elderly man, and having a great influence on the
                     people in the canoes, was called the admiral by our sea-men. His dress did not
                     in the least indicate his superior dignity, probably because these islanders
                     are little acquainted with the refinements of luxury, though on the other hand
                     they seem to behave with great submission to their men of rank, directly
                     contrary to what we had observed at the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>.
                     The respect which <persName>Attagha</persName> paid to the other chief, was
                     however trifling in comparison of that which we heard of on shore after dinner.
                     Here we found a well-looking middle-aged man, sitting on the ground at the
                     trading-place, and all the croud forming a circle about him. Some of our
                     sportsmen acquainted us, that they had met with him near <placeName>Maria
                        Bay</placeName>, where the other natives passing by had prostrated
                     themselves on the ground before him, kissed his feet, and put them on their
                     necks. Upon enquiry, they had been repeatedly told, that he was the chief of
                     the whole island, in the same manner as <persName>Cookee</persName>
                        (<persName>captain Cook</persName>) was chief of our ships, and that they
                     called him <persName>Ko-Haghee-too-Fallango<ref target="#edn122">
                           <note xml:id="edn122" anchored="true">
                              <hi rend="italics">Ko</hi> is the article in these Islands and at
                                 <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, which answers to the Taheitian
                              O or E. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>. Whether this was his name or his title I cannot determine, as we
                     never heard it mentioned again by the natives; but they all agreed in telling
                     us, that he was their <persName>
                        <ref target="#edn123">
                           <note xml:id="edn123" anchored="true"> The same word in the
                                 <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> dialect is pronounced <hi rend="italics">Aree</hi>. </note>
                        </ref>Areeghee</persName> or king. They added that his name was
                        <persName>Latoo-Nipooroo</persName>, of which we concluded that the former
                     part (Latoo) was a title, it being same which <persName>Schouten</persName> and
                        <persName>Le Maire</persName>, the Dutch navigators in the year 1616, found
                     at the <placeName>Cocos</placeName>, <placeName>Traytors</placeName>, and
                        <placeName>Horne islands</placeName>, which are situated in this
                     neighbourhood, only a few degrees to the northward<ref target="#edn124">
                        <note xml:id="edn124" anchored="true"> See Dalrymple's <hi rend="italics">Historical Collection of Voyages and Discoveries in the
                                 <placeName>South Pacific Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>, 2 vols. quarto, 1771. <placeName>London</placeName>. Vol. II. p.
                           27, 28, &amp;c. </note>
                     </ref>. We were confirmed in this opinion by the great correspondence of the
                     vocabularies, which these intelligent seamen have left us, with the language
                     which was spoken at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and still more so by
                     the entire similarity in the behaviour and customs of these islanders. The
                     captains walked up to the Latoo, and made him a number of presents, which he
                     received with so much gravity and seeming indifference, as bordered upon
                     stupidity. Amongst other things they put a shirt on him, with a great deal of
                     trouble, because his behaviour was most aukwardly passive. He did not return
                     any thanks for the presents which he received, till an old woman sitting behind
                     him, had repeatedly excited him to express his gratitude. Upon this he held
                     each separate article over his head, and pronounced the word <hi rend="italics">fagafetai</hi>, like the meanest of his subjects. The
                     priest, who had led our captains to the places of worship, on the first day
                     after our arrival, was seated in the same circle, and drank vast quantities of
                     the intoxicating pepper-water<ref target="#edn125">
                        <note xml:id="edn125" anchored="true"> Called <hi rend="italics">awa</hi>
                           at Taheitèe, and <hi rend="italics">kawa</hi> at
                              <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and <placeName>Horne
                              Island</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>, which was served in little square cups made of banana-leaves curiously
                     folded. At his desire, we were very politely presented with this dainty
                     beverage, and in pure civility tasted of it. It had a nauseous insipid taste,
                     which was afterwards followed by a strong pungency, and its colour was somewhat
                     milky. The holy man took such large and frequent draughts of this stuff every
                     evening, as to become perfectly intoxicated. No wonder then that his memory
                     failed him, when he was at prayer (see p. 454.) that his whole habit of body
                     was lean and scabby, his face wrinkled, and his eyes red, and " purging thick
                        amber<ref target="#edn126">
                        <note xml:id="edn126" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Shakespeare</persName>. </note>
                     </ref>." He had great authority among all the people,. and a number of servants
                     attended to supply him with replenished cups. The presents which he received
                     from us, he retained in his own custody, whereas <persName>Attagha</persName>
                     and several other chiefs, gave up to their superiors whatever the captains had
                     presented to them. The priest had a daughter, who received many presents from
                     our people. She was extremely well featured, and fairer than most of the women
                     of this country, who seemed to pay her some degree of deference. A fairer
                     complexion, and softer features than those of the common people, are the
                     natural effects of an easy inactive life, unexposed to the blaze of a tropical
                     sun, and pampered with a profusion of the best productions of the country. Must
                     we not conclude therefore that the beginnings of luxury will be introduced even
                     here under the cloak of religion, and that another nation will be added to the
                     many dupes of voluptuous priest-craft? So small a spark as the cunning of a
                     single man may in time kindle a dreadful and irresistible fire! The obedience
                     and submission with which these people revere their chiefs, are evident proofs
                     that their government, though perhaps not perfectly despotic, is yet far from
                     being democratical; and this kind of political constitution seems likely to
                     facilitate the introduction of luxury. This seems to hold good likewise in
                     regard to many islands in the western part of the <placeName>Pacific
                        Ocean</placeName>, since the faithful descriptions of
                        <persName>Schouten</persName>, <persName>Le Maire</persName>, and
                        <persName>Tasman</persName>, who visited them, correspond in every material
                     particular with our own observations. The general disposition for trading, and
                     the kind and friendly reception which strangers have almost constantly met with
                     in every island belonging to this group, prevailed upon us to give these
                     discoveries of <persName>Schouten</persName> and <persName>Tasman</persName>,
                     the name of the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.
                        <persName>Schouten's</persName> boats were indeed attacked at
                        <placeName>Cocos</placeName>, <placeName>Traitors</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Hope</placeName>, and <placeName>Horne Islands</placeName>; but
                     these attacks were inconsiderable, though severely punished on the part of the
                     Dutch navigator, who, after the first disturbance at <placeName>Horne
                        Island</placeName>, lay there nine days in perfect good understanding with
                     the natives. <persName>Tasman</persName>, who twenty-seven years afterwards saw
                     several islands near six degrees to the southward of those which
                        <persName>Schouten</persName> has visited, was received with every
                     demonstration of peace and friendship, though he was the first European that
                     discovered them. Whether this behaviour was only a consequence of the
                     intelligence which the natives of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Ana-mocka</placeName>, (<placeName>Ansterdam</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Rotterdam Islands</placeName>,) might have received from those of
                        <placeName>Cocos</placeName>, <placeName>Hope</placeName>, and
                        <placeName>Horne Islands</placeName>, concerning the superior strength of
                     the strangers and the havock which they had made; or whether it was the natural
                     effect of their peaceable disposition, I cannot venture to determine, though I
                     am inclined to adopt the former opinion. <persName>Captain Wallis</persName>
                     probably saw <placeName>Cocos</placeName> and <placeName>Traitors
                        Islands</placeName> in 1767, which he called
                        <placeName>Boscawen's</placeName> and <placeName>Keppel's Isles</placeName>;
                     but his people did the natives no hurt, except frightening them with the
                     discharge of a single musket. <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> saw some
                     of the north-eastermost isles belonging to this group, of which the inhabitants
                     had the same general character. He called his discovery the <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Archipel des Navigateurs</hi>
                     </placeName>, justly enough, as many ships have fallen in with it. Since
                        <persName>Tasman's</persName> time, no other navigator has had any
                     intercourse with the <placeName>isle of Amsterdam</placeName>, which he
                     discovered, previous to our arrival. During a space, therefore, of one hundred
                     and thirty years, they have not materially changed their manners, dresses, way
                     of living, disposition, &amp;c. &amp;c. Our ignorance of their language
                     prevented our obtaining positive proof that they still preserved, by tradition,
                     the memory of former visitors; but they possessed some nails, which must have
                     been brought to the island in <persName>Tasman's</persName> time. We purchased
                     one of these nails, which was very small and almost consumed with rust, but had
                     been carefully preserved by being fixed on a wooden handle, probably to serve
                     the purposes of a googe or borer, and is now deposited in the British Museum.
                     We likewise bought some small earthen pots, perfectly black with soot on the
                     outside, and suspected them to be memorials of <persName>Tasman's</persName>
                     voyage; but afterwards we rather believed that they were manufactured by the
                     natives themselves. The accounts of <persName>Schouten</persName>,
                        <persName>Tasman</persName>, and <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>
                     agree with ours, in respect of the agility with which the natives committed
                     petty thefts. <persName>Tasman</persName> and <persName>captain
                        Wallis</persName> have likewise observed their custom of cutting off the
                     little finger; and according to <persName>Schouten's</persName> and
                        <persName>Le Maire's</persName> circumstantial narratives, the natives of
                        <placeName>Horne Island</placeName> were as submissive to their king as
                     those of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. The experience of the superior
                     power of the strangers, made them respectful even to servility towards the
                     Dutch; their king prostrated himself before a Dutch purser, and their chiefs
                     placed their necks under his foot<ref target="#edn127">
                        <note xml:id="edn127" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Historical Collection of Voyages in the
                                 <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>, vol. II. p. 41. </note>
                     </ref>. These excessive marks of submission seem to border upon meanness and
                     cowardice; but <hi rend="italics">we</hi> never had reason to suppose them
                     tinctured with these vices. Their behaviour towards us was commonly accompanied
                     with that freedom and boldness which the rectitude of intentions inspires; and
                     though really polite, was never unbecoming. Here, however, as in all other
                     societies of men, we found exceptions to the general character, and had reason
                     to lament the behaviour of vicious individuals. <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName> and myself having left the beach where the Latoo
                     attracted the attention of all our people, entered the wood in pursuit of
                     farther discoveries in our branch of science. The first discharge of my
                     fowling-piece at a bird brought three natives towards us, with whom we entered
                     into conversation, as far as our superficial knowledge of their tongue would
                     permit. Soon after, <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> stepped aside into a
                     thicket in search of a bayonet, which he had lost from the end of his musket.
                     One of the natives, finding the temptation of the moment irresistible, grasped
                     my fowling-piece, and struggled to wrest it from me. I called to my companion,
                     and the two other natives ran away, unwilling to become accomplices in this
                     attack. In the struggle our feet were entangled in a bush, and we both fell
                     together; but the native, seeing he could not gain his point, and perhaps
                     dreading the arrival of <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, got up before me,
                     and took that opportunity of running off. My friend joined me immediately; and
                     we concluded, that if there was something treacherous or vicious in the
                     behaviour of this fellow, our separation was also imprudent, because it had
                     furnished him with an opportunity to exercise his talents. We continued
                     strolling about for some time, without any sinister accident, and returned to
                     the trading-place on the beach, where we found almost all the people whom we
                     had left. Many of them were now seated in different little groups, which
                     appeared to be so many separate families, and consisted of persons of various
                     ages and sexes. They were all in conversation, of which no doubt the arrival of
                     our ships furnished the topics; and many of their women amused themselves
                     either with singing or playing at ball. There was a young girl in particular,
                     whose features were more regular than common, her eyes sparkling with vivacity,
                     her whole frame admirably proportioned, and, what was most remarkable here, her
                     long jetty hair hanging down in graceful curls on her neck. This girl, lively
                     and easy in all her actions, played with five gourds, of the size of small
                     apples, perfectly globular; she threw them up into the air one after another
                     continually, and never failed to catch them all with great dexterity, at least
                     for a quarter of an hour. The musical ladies again performed the same tune
                     which we had already heard at Ea-oowhe, the different voices falling in with
                     each other very harmoniously, and sometimes joining all together as in chorus.
                     Though I never saw the natives of these islands dance, yet we may add this
                     amusement to the list of those which they are acquainted with, from their own
                     accounts and gestures whenever they sold us their aprons made of stars of
                     coco-nut core, and ornamented with shell-work and red feathers, or such as were
                     curiously wrought of mats in resemblance of fret-work. From these gestures I
                     have great reason to suppose that their dances are of a dramatic kind, and
                     public, like those which I have spoken of in the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>, (see pag. 398). <persName>Schouten</persName> and
                        <persName>Le Maire</persName> likewise strongly confirm this supposition by
                     their account of the dances at <placeName>Horne Island<ref target="#edn128">
                           <note xml:id="edn128" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                                 Dalrymple's</persName>
                              <hi rend="italics">Collection of Voyages</hi>, vol. II. p. 47.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. It appeared, upon the whole, that the customs and language of
                     these islanders have a great affinity with those of the Taheitians, and that it
                     would not therefore be very singular to find a coincidence even in their
                     amusements. The greatest differences between these two tribes, who must have
                     originated from the same stock, seem to be owing to the different nature of
                     their islands. The <placeName>Society Isles</placeName> are well furnished with
                     wood, and the tops of their mountains are still covered with inexhaustible
                     forests. At the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName> this article is much
                     scarcer, the surface (at least of those which we have seen) being almost
                     entirely laid out in plantations. The natural consequence is, that the houses
                     are lofty and of immense extent in the first group of islands; but much smaller
                     and less convenient in the last. In one the canoes are numerous, I may almost
                     say innumerable, and many of a vast size; and, in the other, very few in
                     number, and much smaller. The mountains of the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName> continually attract the vapours from the atmosphere, and
                     many rivulets descent from the broken rocks into the plain, where they wind
                     their serpentine course and glide smoothly to the sea. The inhabitants of those
                     islands take advantage of this gift of bountiful nature, and not only drink of
                     the salutary element, but likewise bathe so frequently in it that no impurity
                     can long adhere to their skin. It is very different with a people who are
                     absolutely denied this blessing, and who must either content themselves with
                     putrid stagnant rain-water in a few dirty pools, or go entirely without it.
                     They are obliged to have recourse to expedients in order to preserve a certain
                     degree of cleanliness, which may preclude various distempers. They therefore
                     cut off their hair, and shave or clip their bears, which doubtless makes them
                     look more unlike the Taheitians than they would otherwise do. Still these
                     precautions are not sufficient, especially as they have no fluid for drinking
                     in any quantity. The body is therefore very subject to leprous complaints,
                     which are perhaps irritated by the use of the pepper-root water or <hi rend="italics">awa</hi>. Hence also that burning or blistering on the
                     cheek-bones which we observed to be so general among this tribe, that hardly an
                     individual was free from it, and which can only be used as a remedy against
                     some disorders. The soil of the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName> in the
                     plains and vallies is rich, and the rivulets which intersect it, supply
                     abundance of moisture. All sorts of vegetables therefore thrive with great
                     luxuriance upon it, and require little attendance or cultivation. This
                     profusion is become the source of that great luxury among the chiefs which we
                     do not meet with at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. There the coral rock
                     is covered only with a thin bed of mould, which sparingly affords nourishment
                     to all sorts of trees; and the most useful of all, the bread-fruit tree,
                     thrives imperfectly on the island, as it is destitute of water, except when a
                     genial shower happens to impregnate and fertilize the ground. The labour of the
                     natives is therefore greater than that of the Taheitians, and accounts for the
                     regularity of the plantations, and the accurate division of property. It is
                     likewise to this source we must ascribe it, that they have always set a higher
                     value on their provisions than on their tools, dresses, ornaments, and weapons,
                     though many of these must have cost them infinite time and application. They
                     very justly conceive the articles of food to be their principal riches, of
                     which the loss is absolutely not to be remedied. If we observed their bodies
                     more slender and their muscles harder than those of the Taheitians, this seems
                     to be the consequence of a greater and more constant exertion of strength.
                     Thus, perhaps, they become industrious by force of habit, and when agriculture
                     does not occupy them, they are actuated to employ their vacant hours in the
                     fabrick of that variety of tools and instruments on which they bestow so much
                     time, patience, labour, and ingenuity. This industrious turn has also led them,
                     in the cultivation of all their arts, to so much greater perfection than the
                     Taheitians. By degrees they have hit upon new inventions, and introduced an
                     active spirit and enlivening chearfulness even into their amusements. Their
                     happiness of temper they preserve under a political constitution, which does
                     not appear to be very favourable to liberty; but we need not go so far from
                     home to wonder at such a phӕnomenon, when one of the most enslaved people in
                     all Europe, are characterised as the merriest and most facetious of mankind.
                     Still there may be more sincerity in the chearfulness of the natives of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>; for, exclusive of great and almost
                     servile submission, their king does not seem to exact any thing from them,
                     which, by depriving them of the means to satisfy the most indispensible wants
                     of nature, could make them miserable. Be this as it may, so much seems to be
                     certain, that their systems of politics and religion, from their similarity
                     with the Taheitian, as far as we could judge, must have had one common origin,
                     perhaps in the mother country, from whence both these colonies issued. Single
                     dissonant customs, and opinions may have acceded to the primitive ideas; in
                     proportion as various accidents, or human caprices have given rise to them. The
                     affinity of their languages is still more decisive. The greatest part of the
                     necessaries of life, common to both groups of islands, the parts of the body,
                     in short the most obvious and universal ideas, were expressed at the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>
                     nearly by the same words. We did not find that sonorousness in the
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> dialect, which is prevalent in that of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, because the inhabitants of the former have
                     adopted the F, K, and S, so that their language is more replete with
                     consonants. This harshness is compensated however by the frequent use of the
                     liquid letters, L, M, N; and of the softer vowels E and I, to which we must add
                     that kind of singing tone, which they generally retain even in common
                     conversation. _________But it is time to return from this digression.</p>

                  <p n="424">We did not part from our friends till sun-set, promising to return to
                     them once more the next morning. Our ships were well provided with bananas,
                     yams, and coco-nuts; and, considering the small size of the island, as well as
                     our short stay, sixty or eighty hogs, besides a vast number of large fowls,
                     were a surprising acquisition. During our stay we had searched the country in
                     vain for water, and the master had been sent to the eastward to survey
                        <placeName>Maria Bay</placeName>, and the low isles which shelter that
                     harbour. The situation of these islands he found very exactly represented in
                     the charts of the ever accurate <persName>Tasman</persName>, and on one of them
                     where he landed, he saw an astonishing number of speckled water-snakes, with
                     flat tails, which are harmless, and distinguished in the system of
                        <persName>Linnӕus</persName>, by the name of <hi rend="italics">colubri</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">laticaudati</hi>. In our branch we had not been
                     unsuccessful, this little island having afforded us several new plants, among
                     which was a new species of jesuit's bark, or <hi rend="italics">cinchona</hi>, of which the bitter bark may perhaps be equally
                     efficacious with that of <placeName>Peru</placeName>. We also collected several
                     birds unknown before, and purchased some live species, particularly of the
                     parrot and pigeon tribe, of the natives, who seem to be very expert fowlers.
                     But it did not appear to us, that the pigeons, which many carried perched on
                     crooked sticks, were marks of distinction, though <persName>Schouten</persName>
                     at <placeName>Horne Island</placeName> where the same custom prevails, is of
                     that opinion<ref target="#edn129">
                        <note xml:id="edn129" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Historical Collection</hi>, vol. II. p. 46. </note>
                     </ref>. In the last boat which had brought our people on board in the evening,
                     the Latoo or king had sent a great quantity of vegetables, together with a
                     whole hog roasted, or dressed under ground, as a present to the captain. In the
                     morning therefore, we embarked early in the pinnace, and rowed to the shore to
                     make a present in return. We found the Latoo sitting at a little distance from
                     the beach; and <persName>captain Cook</persName> gave him a shirt, a saw, a
                     hatchet, a brass kettle, and several articles of less moment, all which he
                     received with sullen gravity; this deportment he never varied, except once,
                     when he was seen to smile as he conversed with <persName>Attagha</persName>.
                     Among the croud, we observed a single man, who differed from all the rest, by
                     having suffered his hair to grow, and having twisted it into several round
                     bunches, which hung wildly about his ears. This man, and the young girl
                     mentioned page 468. were the only persons we met with, who had not conformed to
                     the general custom of cutting off the hair.</p>

                  <p n="425">After a short conversation with the natives, of whom we bought a
                     variety of their tools, on account of their elegant carving, we returned on
                     board to breakfast, and immediately after weighed the anchors and set sail. The
                     provisions lying in confused heaps on the decks, prevented our going into the
                     open sea immediately. We therefore kept standing off and on, under shelter of
                     this island, and did not take our departure till towards evening, when we
                     shaped our course southerly.</p>

                  <p n="426">
                     <date>[Friday 8.]</date>The next morning, the weather being nearly calm, we
                     caught a shark, eight feet long, consequently bigger than any we had seen
                     before. In the afternoon we saw the little isle which
                        <placeName>Tasman</placeName> calls <placeName>Pylstaerts
                     Island</placeName>. This name refers to the birds, which the Dutch navigators
                     observed there, and which in all probability were tropic birds. Pylstaert
                     literally signifying arrow-tail, alludes to the two long feathers in the tail
                     of this bird, from whence its French name of <hi rend="italics">paille-en-queue</hi> is likewise derived<ref target="#edn130">
                        <note xml:id="edn130" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Collection</hi>, vol. II. p. 75. where they are
                           called <hi rend="italics">wild ducks</hi>. </note>
                     </ref>. Its latitude is <geo select="lat">22° 26' S.</geo> and its longitude
                        <geo select="lon">170° 59' W.</geo> A contrary S. W. wind which sprung up
                     towards evening, obliged us to [Sunday 10.]cruize about till the 10th in the
                     morning, when we came in sight of this little islet again. It is of a moderate
                     height, and has two hummocks, of which the southernmost is the highest. We
                     recovered the trade-wind by degrees, so that we were out of sight of this
                     island about <time>two o'clock</time> in the afternoon, and having bid adieu to
                     the tropical islands of this ocean, directed our course a second time towards
                     New Zeeland. We had now made such good use of the four months, after our
                     departure from thence, as to have crossed the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>
                     in the middle latitudes, in the depth of winter, examined a space of more than
                     forty degrees of longitude between the tropics, and refreshed our people at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, <placeName>the Society Islands</placeName>,
                     and the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName> during one and thirty days. The
                     season for prosecuting our discoveries in high southern latitudes advanced, and
                     the savage rocks of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> were only to give us
                     shelter, whilst we changed our fair-weather rigging, for such as might resist
                     the storms and rigours of more inhospitable climates.</p>

                  <p n="427"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="2" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. II.<lb/>
                     Course from the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName> to <placeName>New
                           Zeeland</placeName>. - Separation from the Adventure. - Second stay in
                           <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="428">
                     <date>[1773. October.]</date>WE had no sooner left the torrid zone, than flocks
                     of sea-fowls attended us on our course, and hovered lightly on the waves, which
                     a favourable gale had raised. <date>[Tuesday 12.]</date> On the 12th an
                     albatross appeared, among the rest of the inhabitants of the temperate zone,
                     which never dare to cross the tropic, but roam from thence even to the polar
                     circle; so carefully has nature allotted to each animal its proper place of
                     abode.</p>

                  <p n="429">
                     <date>[Saturday 16.]</date> The weather continued fair till the 16th in the
                     morning, when we had a fall of rain. Some of the people who examined the
                     pump-well, found there a dog, which they brought upon deck. This creature,
                     which had been purchased at the <placeName>island of Huahine</placeName>, like
                     many others of the same species, had obstinately refused to take any
                     nourishment, and in all probability had lived ever since in that hole without
                     the least support of food, for a space of thirty-nine or forty days. The whole
                     body was reduced to a mere skeleton, the legs were contracted, and he voided
                     blood at the anus. The torments in which this poor animal must have lived, were
                     a lesson to our people, to purchase only young puppies of this race for the
                     future, as the grown dogs constantly refused to eat on board.</p>

                  <p n="430">The next night several blubbers passed by the ship, which were visible
                     on account of their phosphoric light. Their luminous quality was so great, that
                     the bosom of the sea, seemed to contain brighter stars than the ӕther.</p>

                  <p n="431">Sea-weed, sheer-waters, and albatrosses daily appeared, as we advanced
                     towards <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. On the 19th, the sea was luminous,
                     and on the 20th, the diving petrels arrived in flocks about us, and indicated
                     the proximity of the land, which we saw the next morning at <time>five
                        o'clock</time>. <date>[Tuesday 21.]</date>We stood in shore all the day,
                     till four in the afternoon, when we were abreast of the <placeName>Table
                           Cape<ref target="#edn131">
                           <note xml:id="edn131" anchored="true"> See the chart of <placeName>New
                                 Zeeland</placeName>, in vol. II. of
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> Compilation. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, and <placeName>Portland Island</placeName> which adjoins to it by
                     a ledge of rocks. The shores were white and steep towards the sea, and we could
                     perceive the huts and strong holds of the natives, like eagles airies on the
                     top of the cliffs. A great number of natives ran along the rocks, in order to
                     gaze at us, as we passed by them, and many seated themselves at the point which
                     extends to the southward, but did not care to come off to us in their canoes.
                     We sailed between the sunken rock and the land, and continued our course across
                        <placeName>Hawke's Bay</placeName>, and then along shore, as it was growing
                     dark.</p>

                  <p n="432">
                     <date>[Friday 22.]</date>In the morning we were to the south of <placeName>Cape
                        Kidnappers</placeName>, and advanced to the <placeName>Black
                        Cape</placeName>. After breakfast three canoes put off from this part of the
                     shore, where some level land appeared at the foot of the mountains. They soon
                     came on board as we were not very far from the land, and in one of them was a
                     chief, who came on deck without hesitation. He was a tall middle-aged man,
                     clothed in two new and elegant dresses, made of the <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> flag or flax-plant. His hair was dressed in the highest
                     fashion of the country, tied on the crown, oiled, and stuck with white
                     feathers. In each ear he wore a piece of albatross-skin covered with its white
                     down, and his face was punctured in spirals and curve lines. <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName> drew his portrait, and a print of it is inserted in
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this voyage. His companions
                     sold us some fish, while he was entertained in the cabin. The captain presented
                     him with a piece of red baize, some garden-seeds, two young pigs of each sex,
                     and likewise three pairs of fowls. Our young Borabora man,
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>, who did not understand the language of the New
                     Zeelanders at the first interview like <persName>Tupaya</persName>, hearing
                     from us that these people were not possessed of coco-nuts and yams, produced
                     some of these nuts and roots with a view to offer them to the chief; but upon
                     our assuring him the climate was unfavourable to the growth of palm-trees, he
                     only presented the yams, whilst we made an effort to convince the chief of the
                     value of the presents which he had received, and that it was his interest to
                     keep the hogs and fowls for breeding, and to plant the roots. He seemed at last
                     to comprehend our meaning, and in return for such valuable presents, parted
                     with his <hi rend="italics">mahèe-peh</hi> or battle-axe, which was
                     perfectly new, its head well carved, and ornamented with red parrot's feathers
                     and white dog's hair. After a short stay he returned on deck, where captain
                     Cook presented him with several large nails. He received those with so much
                     eagerness that he seemed to value them above any other present; and having
                     observed that the captain took them out of one of the holes in the capstan,
                     where his clerk had put them, he turned the capstan all round, and examined
                     every hole to see if there were not some more concealed. This circumstance
                     plainly shews how much the value of iron tools is advanced in the estimation of
                     the New Zeelanders since the Endeavour's voyage, when they would hardly receive
                     them in many places. Before their departure they gave us a heeva or warlike
                     dance, which consisted of stamping with the feet, brandishing short clubs,
                     speakers, &amp;c. making frightful contorsions of the face, lolling out the
                     tongue, and bellowing wildly, but in tune with each motion. From their manner
                     of treating the fowls which we had given them, we had no great reason to expect
                     success in our plan of stocking this country with domestic animals, and we much
                     feared whether the birds would reach the shore alive. We comforted ourselves,
                     however, with the thoughts of having at least attempted what we could not hope
                     to see accomplished.</p>

                  <p n="433">The wind, which had shifted during our interview with these savages,
                     blew right off shore, and was very unfavourable. It encreased towards evening
                     into a hard gale, during which we hauled our wind, and stood on different tacks
                     for fear of being blown too far from the coast. Heavy rains attended this gale,
                     and penetrated every cabin in the ship. Squalls were likewise frequent, and
                     split some old sails, which were not fit to resist the violence of the tempest.
                     We had not expected such a rough reception in the latitude of <geo select="lat">40° s</geo>outh, and felt the air from the bleak mountains of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> very cold and uncomfortable, the
                     thermometer <date>[Saturday 23.]</date>being at 50 degrees in the morning. A
                     few hours of moderate and almost calm weather succeeded these boisterous
                     beginning, after which the gale freshened to the same height as the night
                     before. By day it abated again, and permitted us to run in shore, but every
                     night it encreased and blew in furious gusts, which demanded all our attention.
                     On the 24th, in the evening, we had reached the entrance of <placeName>Cook's
                        Strait</placeName>, and saw <placeName>Cape Palliser</placeName> before us;
                        <date>[Monday 25.]</date>but the next morning a gale sprung up, which was
                     already so violent, at <time>nine o'clock</time>, that we were forced to hand
                     our sails and lay to, under a single one. Though we were situated under the lee
                     of a high and mountainous coast, yet the waves rose to a vast height, ran
                     prodigiously long, and were dispersed into vapour as they broke by the violence
                     of the storm. The whole surface of the sea was by this means rendered hazy, and
                     as the sun shone out in a cloudless sky, the white foam was perfectly dazzling.
                     The fury of the wind still encreased so as to tear to pieces the only sail
                     which we had hitherto dared to shew, and we rolled about at the mercy of the
                     waves, frequently shipping great quantities of water, which fell with
                     prodigious force on the decks, and broke all that stood in the way. The
                     continual strain slackened all the rigging and ropes in the ship, and loosened
                     every thing, in so much that it gradually gave way and presented to our eyes a
                     general scene of confusion. In one of the deepest rolls the arm-chest on the
                     quarter-deck was torn out of its place and overset, leaning against the rails
                     to leeward. A young gentleman, <persName>Mr. Hood</persName>, who happened to
                     be just then to leeward of it, providentially escaped by bending down when he
                     saw the chest falling, so as to remain unhurt in the angle which it formed with
                     the rail. The confusion of the elements did not scare every bird away from us:
                     from time to time a black shear-water hovered over the ruffled surface of the
                     sea, and artfully withstood the force of the tempest, by keeping under the lee
                     of the high tops of the waves. The aspect of the ocean was at once magnificent
                     and terrific: now on the summit of a broad and heavy billow, we overlooked an
                     unmeasurable expanse of sea, furrowed into numberless deep channels; now on a
                     sudden the wave broke under us, and we plunged into a deep and dreary valley,
                     whilst a fresh mountain rose to windward with a foaming crest, and threatened
                     to overwhelm us. The night coming on was not without new horrors, especially
                     for those who had not been bred up to a seafaring life. In the captain's cabin
                     the windows were taken out and replaced by the dead-lights, to guard against
                     the intrusion of the waves in wearing the ship. This operation disturbed from
                     its retreat a scorpion, which had lain concealed in a chink, and was probably
                     brought on board with fruit from the islands. Our friend
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> assured us that it was harmless, but its
                     appearance alone was horrid enough to fill the mind with apprehension<ref target="#edn132">
                        <note xml:id="edn132" anchored="true"> See
                              <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> Compilation, vol. II. </note>
                     </ref>. In the other cabins the beds were perfectly soaked in water, whilst the
                     tremendous roar of the waves, the creaking of the timbers, and the rolling
                     motion deprived us of all hopes of repose. To complete this catalogue of
                     horrors, we heard the voices of sailors from time to time louder than the
                     blustering winds or the raging ocean itself, uttering horrible vollies of
                     curses and oaths. Without any provocation to serve as an excuse, they execrated
                     every limb in varied terms, piercing and complicated beyond the power of
                     description. Inured to danger from their infancy, they were insensible to its
                     threats; and not a single reflection bridled their blasphemous tongues. I know
                     of nothing comparable to the dreadful energy of their curses, than that
                     disgrace to christianity the Anathema of Ernulphus<ref target="#edn133">
                        <note xml:id="edn133" anchored="true"> See Tristram Shandy. </note>
                     </ref>. In this comfortless situation we continued till <time>two
                        o'clock</time> the next morning, when the wind died away suddenly, and was
                     succeeded in an hour's time by another from a favourable quarter. In the calm
                     interval between these two winds, the ship rolled more violently than ever, so
                     that the main-chains were repeatedly dipped under water, with part of the
                     quarter-deck.</p>

                  <p n="434">
                     <date>[Tuesday 26.]</date>We sailed all this day towards the land, having been
                     driven off many leagues during the storm. Pintadas, black shear-waters, and
                     other petrels now surrounded us in great flocks, and we passed an albatross
                     sitting fast asleep in the water, perhaps fatigued by the violence of the
                     preceding gale.</p>

                  <p n="435">The next day we were disappointed once more at the mouth of the strait,
                     and got a contrary wind, which blew a storm before night. The same weather
                     continued for two days following, almost without intermission. On the
                        <date>[Friday 29.]</date>29th, early in the morning, several water-spouts
                     were seen by the officer at watch; and soon after we had a slight shower and a
                     favourable change of wind. In the evening we lost sight of the Adventure our
                     consort, whom we never rejoined again during this voyage. The foul wind which
                     in the morning on the 30th certainly contributed to separate her from us
                     entirely, she being so far astern that this wind must have had infinitely more
                     effect upon her than upon our ship.</p>

                  <p n="436">It would be useless and tedious to repeat the many changes from adverse
                     tempests to favourable gales which succeeded those already mentioned, and which
                     made us despair of ever coming to an anchor in <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> again. We were buffetted about for nine nights together,
                     during which sleep scarce ever visited our eyes. <date>[1773. November.][Monday
                        1.]</date>On the 1st of November we got into <placeName>Cook's
                        Strait</placeName>, but the weather proved so inconstant, that it became
                     contrary to us as soon as we had approached <placeName>Cape
                        Tera-wittee</placeName> upon the <placeName>Northern Island</placeName>. Our
                     situation permitted us, however, the next day <date>[Tuesday 2.]</date>to come
                     to an anchor in a new bay, which we discovered immediately under this
                     promontory to the westward. The environs of this bay were dreary, blackish,
                     barren mountains, of a great height, almost wholly destitute of woods and
                     shrubs, and running out into long spits of sharp columnar rocks into the sea.
                     The bay itself seemed to extend a considerable way up between the mountains,
                     and by its direction left us in doubt, whether the land on which
                        <placeName>Cape Tera-wittee</placeName> is situated, is not a separate
                     island from <placeName>Eaheino mauwe</placeName>. This miserable country was,
                     however, inhabited, and we had not been half an hour at anchor, before several
                     canoes full of natives came on board. They were very despicably habited in old
                     shaggy cloaks, which they called <hi rend="italics">bòghee-bògghee</hi>. The
                     smoke to which they are perpetually exposed in their wretched habitations, and
                     a load of impurities which they had probably never washed off since their
                     birth, perfectly concealed their real colour, and made them look of a vile
                     brownish yellow. The season of winter, which was just at an end, had in all
                     likelihood forced them at times to make their meals on putrid fishes, which,
                     together with the use of rancid oil for the hair, had so penetrated them with
                     an insufferable stench, that we could smell them at a distance. They brought a
                     few of their fish-hooks and some dried tails of craw-fish to sell, for which
                     they eagerly received our iron-ware and Taheitee cloth. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> likewise presented them with two pair of fowls, with strong
                     injunctions to keep them for breeding; but it is hardly to be expected that
                     these wretched savages will attend to the domestication of animals. In their
                     unthinking situation, the first moment they have nothing ready at hand to
                     satisfy the cravings of appetite, our fowls must fall the victims to their
                     voracity. If there are any hopes of succeeding in the introduction of domestic
                     animals in this country, it must be in the populous bays to the northward,
                     where the inhabitants seem to be more civilized, and are already accustomed to
                     cultivate several roots for their subsistence.</p>

                  <p n="437">About <time>three o'clock</time> in the afternoon the weather fell
                     perfectly calm; but in a little time a southerly wind came up the strait, at
                     sight of which curling the water at a distance, we weighed anchor and got out
                     of the bay. And very fortunate it was that we did so, for the gale encreased
                     after a few minutes to such a furious pitch, that we were hurried along with
                     astonishing speed, and after passing close to the dangerous rocks of the
                     Brothers, on which a most dreadful surf was breaking, we came to an anchor at
                     night, under shelter of <placeName>Cape Koa-maroo</placeName> in
                        <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="438">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 3.]</date>The next day, about noon, we came safely into the
                        <placeName>Ship-Cove</placeName>, from whence we sailed on the 7th of June,
                     near five months before. We were in great hopes of being rejoined here by the
                     Adventure, because <persName>captain Cook</persName> intended to make some stay
                     at this place, though the early season of the year did not promise such
                     abundance of refreshments as we had enjoyed at our first visit.</p>

                  <p n="439">We had hardly dropped our anchor, before several of the inhabitants,
                     who had been out fishing, came to see us in their canoes, and disposed of the
                     fish which they had caught. We recollected them as some of our old friends, and
                     called them by their names, at which they expressed great satisfaction,
                     doubtless because it served to persuade them that we were particularly
                     concerned for their welfare by retaining them in memory. The weather was fair
                     and warm, considering the season, but our New Zeelanders were all covered with
                     shaggy cloaks, which are their winter dresses. We questioned them concerning
                     the health of their absent countrymen, and received various answers; but among
                     the rest they acquainted us, that <persName>Goobaïa</persName>, one of their
                     old chiefs, had chaced the two goats which we had left in the woods of
                        <placeName>Grass-Cove</placeName>, and had killed and eaten them. This news
                     was most unwelcome to us, as it destroyed all our hopes of stocking the forests
                     of this country with quadrupeds.</p>

                  <p n="440">In the afternoon we visited all the plantations which we had left on
                     the beach in <placeName>Ship-Cove</placeName>, on the
                        <placeName>Hippah-Rock</placeName>, and on <placeName>motu-Aro</placeName>.
                     We found almost all the radishes and turneps shot into seed, the cabbages and
                     carrots very fine, and abundance of onions and parsley in good order; the peas
                     and beans were almost entirely lost, and seemed to have been destroyed by rats.
                     The potatoes were likewise all extirpated; but, from appearances, we guessed
                     this to have been the work of the natives. The thriving state of our European
                     pot-herbs, gave us a strong and convincing proof of the mildness of the winter
                     in this part of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, where it seems it had never
                     frozen hard enough to kill these plants, which perish in our winters. The
                     indigenous plants of this country were not yet so forward; the deciduous trees
                     and shrubs, in particular, were but just beginning to look green, and the vivid
                     colour of their fresh leaves well contrasted with the dark wintery hue of the
                     evergreens. The flag, of which the natives prepare their hemp, was however in
                     flower, together with some other early species. We collected all we could find,
                     gathered a quantity of celery and scurvy-grass, and shot some water-fowl, with
                     all which we returned on board in the evening. We immediately made drawings and
                     descriptions of all that was new to us, and particularly of the flag, (<hi rend="italics">phormium tenax</hi>.) which, on account of the excellent
                     flax that may be prepared from it, deserves to be more universally known.
                     Desirous to promote every improvement which may turn out a real benefit to
                     mankind, we did not hesitate a moment to permit an engraving to be made from
                     our drawing, at the request of the Earl of Sandwich, which is intended to
                     ornament <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this voyage.</p>

                  <p n="441">
                     <date>[Thursday 4.]</date>The natives returned the next morning in more canoes
                     than the preceding day, and among them was <persName>Teiratu</persName>, the
                     chief, who had made acquaintance with us on the fourth of June, and had
                     pronounced a long harrangue that day. He was now in his old clothes, or what
                     the polite world would call <hi rend="italics">deshabillè</hi>; quite
                     destitute of the finery of chequered mats edged with dog-skin, and his hair
                     carelessly tied in a bunch, instead of being combed smooth, and delectably
                     greased with stinking oil. In short, from being the orator and leader of a
                     troop of warriors, he seemed to be degraded to a simple fishmonger. It was with
                     some difficulty that we recognized his features under this disguise, upon which
                     he was taken into the cabin, and presented with some nails. Our iron ware, and
                     our provision of Taheitee cloth, were articles of such importance to
                        <persName>Teiratu</persName> and his people, that they resolved to establish
                     themselves near us, in order to be the first to profit by our commerce, and
                     perhaps to lose no opportunity of laying their hands on any thing which
                     belonged to us. Our ship lay very near the beach where we intended to fill our
                     empty casks with fresh water. Here we had already set up a tent for the people
                     who were employed in this branch of our preparations; another for our
                     wood-cutters, and the astronomical observatory. We went on shore at this place,
                     both before and after-noon, and made our way through a labyrinth of climbers
                     which crossed from one tree to another. <persName>Mahine</persName> (or
                        <persName>Hedeedee</persName>) likewise came on shore with us, and roamed
                     through its intricate forests, surprised at the number of different birds,
                     their sweet melody, and their beautiful plumage. One of our gardens where the
                     radishes and turneps were in flower, was remarkably full of small birds, which
                     sucked the nectareous juices of the blossoms, and not seldom plucked them from
                     the stalk. We shot several of them, and <persName>Mahine</persName>, who had
                     never made use of fire-arms in his life before, killed his bird at the first
                     discharge. The senses of all nations, not more polished than his countrymen,
                     are infinitely more acute than ours, which a thousand accidents tend to impair.
                     We never were more clearly convinced of this, than at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; it was very usual for the natives there, to
                     point out small birds to us in the thickest trees, or ducks and other
                     water-fowl between bushes of reeds, where not one of us could ever perceive
                     them.</p>

                  <p n="442">The weather, which was warm and pleasant, facilitated our zoological
                     researches, so that we brought home a number of birds in the evening.</p>

                  <p n="443">
                     <date>[Friday 5.]</date>The first intelligence which we received from the shore
                     the next day, was a complaint against the natives, who had stolen during the
                     night, a watch-coat from the waterers tent, and a bag filled with linen. The
                     captain immediately went into the cove, where the savages had taken up their
                     quarters, which was only separated by a single hill from our watering-place,
                     and to which he had given the name of <persName>Indian Cove</persName>. Here he
                     addressed himself to their <persName>chief Teiratu</persName>, who sent for the
                     stolen goods, and returned them without hesitation, pretending that the theft
                     was committed without his knowledge. Our people were politic enough to believe
                     him on his word, because the address of his countrymen had hitherto supplied us
                     with abundance of fish, for a very moderate compensation of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, whilst we caught them but very
                     sparingly. In this place they found one of the sows, which <persName>captain
                        Furneaux</persName> had left in <placeName>Canibal Cove</placeName>; and
                        <persName>Teiratu</persName> being questioned concerning its two companions,
                     pointed to different quarters of the bay, whither he said they had been
                     carried. Thus by separating the animals, and dividing them as a spoil, these
                     barbarians effectually destroy the possibility of propagating the species. Too
                     much occupied with the wants of the present moment, they overlook the only
                     means of securing a certain livelihood to themselves, and reject every attempt
                     to civilize them.</p>

                  <p n="444">
                     <date>[Saturday 6.]</date>They were joined by a strong party on the 6th in the
                     afternoon, who came from various parts of the bay, with a great quantity of
                     fish, and abundance of their clothes, arms, &amp;c. which they exchanged for
                        <persName>Taheitee</persName> cloth. In the evening they retired to a beach
                     opposite the ship, where they hauled their canoes ashore, made some temporary
                     huts, lighted fires, and broiled some fish for their suppers. Early the next
                     morning <date>[Sunday 7.]</date>looking about us, we found they were all gone
                     off, not excepting those who had lived at the <placeName>Indian
                        Cove</placeName>. We were at a loss to guess the reason of their sudden
                     departure, till we perceived that they had taken away six small casks from our
                     watering-place, probably for the sake of the iron hoops. It is certain, that by
                     supplying us with fish for another day, they would have received three or four
                     times the value of this iron, manufactured for their use; but we have already
                     observed that they are not much troubled with reflections, and probably value a
                     bird in hand more than two in a bush. We were the greatest sufferers on this
                     occasion, being now reduced to catch fish for ourselves, though we could not
                     spare a sufficient number of hands, and were not acquainted with the haunts of
                     the fishes as well as the natives. Our people were occupied in cleaning,
                     caulking, and breaming the ship, setting up and repairing the rigging, and, in
                     short, in fitting her for the next southern cruize. A great party were on shore
                     to fill our empty casks with fresh-water, to make provision of fuel, and to
                     revise the ship's biscuit, which was in a very decayed condition. It had
                     unfortunately been packed into new, or what are called green casks, the staves
                     of which being damp, had communicated the moisture to the bread, a considerable
                     part of which was perfectly rotten, and all the rest, more or less covered with
                     mould. To prevent the fatal effects of this corruption, all the bread was
                     carried ashore, the bad carefully selected from that which was still eatable,
                     and this last put into an oven and baked over again, till it was thoroughly
                     dried.</p>

                  <p n="445">The weather during this time was as boisterous and inconstant, as that
                     which had so long kept us out of this harbour. Scarce a day passed without
                     heavy squalls of wind, which hurried down with redoubled velocity from the
                     mountains, and strong showers of rain, which retarded all our occupations. The
                     air was commonly cold and raw, vegetation made slow advances, and the birds
                     were only found in vallies sheltered from the chilling southern blast. This
                     kind of weather in all likelihood prevails throughout the winter, and likewise
                     far into the midst of summer, without a much greater degree of cold in the
                     former, or of warmth in the latter season. Islands far remote from any
                     continent, or at least not situated near a cold one, seem in general to have an
                     uniform temperature of air, owing perhaps to the nature of the ocean which
                     every where surrounds them. It appears from the meteorological journals kept at
                        <placeName>Port Egmont</placeName> on the <placeName>Falkland
                        Islands</placeName>
                     <ref target="#edn134">
                        <note xml:id="edn134" anchored="true"> See the Journal of the Winds and
                           Weather, and Degrees of Heat and Cold by the thermometer at
                              <placeName>Falkland's Island</placeName>, from February 1766, to
                           January 1767. inserted in <persName>Mr. Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Collection of Voyages in the Southern
                                 <placeName>Atlantic Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>. </note>
                     </ref>, that the extremes of the greatest cold, and the greatest heat observed
                     there throughout the year, do not exceed thirty degrees on Fahrenheit's scale.
                     The latitude of that port is <geo select="lat">51° 25' s</geo>outh; and that of
                        <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName> in <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, only <geo select="lat">41° 5'</geo>. This considerable
                     difference of site, will naturally make the climate of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> infinitely milder than that of <placeName>Falkland's
                        Islands</placeName>, but cannot affect the general hypothesis concerning the
                     temperature of all islands; and the immense height of the mountains in
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, some of which are covered with snow
                     throughout the year, doubtless contributes to refrigerate the air, so as to
                     assimilate it to that of the <placeName>Falkland's Isles</placeName>, which are
                     not so high.</p>

                  <p n="446">The inclemency of the season did not prevent the natives from rambling
                     about in this spacious sound. Having been entirely forsaken by them for three
                     days together, a party arrived near us on the 9th, in three canoes, one of
                     which was elegantly carved in fretwork on the stern. They sold us some
                     curiosities, and then went on shore abreast of the ship; but we did not
                     remember having ever seen them before. The next day two wretched canoes joined
                     these in which was our friend <persName>Towahanga</persName> with his
                        family<ref target="#edn135">
                        <note xml:id="edn135" anchored="true"> See page 209. </note>
                     </ref>. He came immediately on board, with his little boy
                        <persName>Khoâa</persName> and his daughter <persName>Ko-parree</persName>,
                     and disposed of a great number of green nephritic stones wrought into chissels
                     and blades of hatchets. He was introduced into the cabin, where
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> gave him many little presents, and dressed
                     his little boy in one of his own white shirts. The boy was so overjoyed at his
                     finery, that we found it absolutely impossible to keep him in the cabin by fair
                     words. He was bent upon parading it before his countrymen on the deck, and
                     persisted to importune us till we let him out. His little vanity, however, had
                     the most disastrous consequences. An old he-goat, which went about our decks,
                     to the great terror of all the New Zeelanders, took offence at the ludicrous
                     figure of poor <persName>Khoâa</persName>, who was lost in the ample turns and
                     folds of his shirt, and awkwardly trotted along with self-complacency. The
                     sturdy mountaineer stepped in his way, and raising himself on his hind-legs,
                     butted with his head full against him, and laid him sprawling on the deck in an
                     instant. The unsuccessful efforts which the boy made to rise, together with his
                     loud lamentations, so provoked the goat, that he prepared to repeat the
                     compliment, and would probably have silenced this knight of the rueful
                     countenance, if some of our people had not interposed. His shirt was now
                     sullied, and his face and hands covered with dirt; and in this pitiful plight
                     he returned into the cabin. His air was quite dejected, his eyes full of tears,
                     and he seemed to be perfectly cured of his vanity. He told his misfortune,
                     crying, to his father; but far from exciting pity, he provoked the savage's
                     indignation, and received several blows as a punishment of his folly, before we
                     could make his peace. We cleaned his shirt and washed him all over, which had
                     perhaps never happened to him before during his life, and thus succeeded to
                     restore him to his former tranquillity. However, his father, dreading a future
                     misfortune, carefully rolled up the shirt, and taking off his own dress, made a
                     bundle of it, in which he placed all the presents which he and his son had
                     received.</p>

                  <p n="447">
                     <date>[Friday 12.]</date> The natives continued to sell their artificial
                     curiosities and some fish to our people this day and the following, both which
                     proved very rainy. On the 12th, in the morning, the weather being clear again,
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, my father, and myself, went to the
                        <placeName>Indian Cove</placeName>, which we found uninhabited. A path, made
                     by the natives, led through the forest a considerable way up the steep
                     mountain, which separates this cove from <placeName>Shag Cove<ref target="#edn136">
                           <note xml:id="edn136" anchored="true"> See the chart of <placeName>Cook's
                                 Strait</placeName> in <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                              Compilation, vol. II. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. The only motive which could induce the New Zeelanders to make
                     this path, appeared to be the abundance of ferns towards the summit of the
                     mountain, the roots of that plant being an article of their diet. The steepest
                     part of the path was cut in steps paved with shingle or slate, but beyond that
                     the climbers impeded our progress considerably. About half way up, the forest
                     ended, and the rest was covered with various shrubs and ferns, though it
                     appeared to be naked and barren from the ship. At the summit we met with many
                     plants which grow in the vallies and by the sea-side at <placeName>Dusky
                        Bay</placeName>, owing to the difference of climate, which is so much more
                     rigorous in that southern extremity of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. The
                     whole to the very top consists of the same talcous clay which is universal all
                     over the island, and of a talcous stone, which when exposed to the sun and air,
                     crumbles in pieces and dissolves into lamellӕ. Its colour is whitish, greyish,
                     and sometimes tinged with a dirty yellowish-red, perhaps owing to irony
                     particles. The south side of the mountain is clad in forests almost to the
                     summit. The view from hence was very extensive and pleasing; we looked into
                        <placeName>East Bay</placeName> as into a fish-pond, and saw <placeName>Cape
                        Terà-wittee</placeName> beyond the strait. The mountains in the south arose
                     to a vast height, and were capt with snow; and the whole prospect on that side
                     was wild and chaotic. We made a fire as a memorial of our expedition, and then
                     came down the same path by which we had ascended. The next morning we made an
                     excursion to <placeName>Long Island</placeName>, where we found a number of
                     plants and some birds which were new to us. In the woods on the east side we
                     heard some petrels in holes under ground croaking like frogs and cackling like
                     hens; and we supposed them to be of the little diving species, which I have
                     noticed before. It seems to be a general custom of the petrel tribe to make
                     their nest in subterraneous holes, as we found the blue or silvery sort lodged
                     in the same manner at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="448">Ever since the 12th the weather was mild and very fair; the natives
                     resided abreast of the ship, and supplied us with plenty of fish, whilst our
                     sailors carried on their former amours with the women, amongst whom there was
                     but one who had tolerable features, and something soft and feminine in her
                     looks. She was regularly given in marriage by her parents to one of our
                     shipmates, who was particularly beloved by this nation, for devoting much of
                     his time to them, and treating them with those marks of affection which, even
                     among a savage race, endear mankind to each other.
                        <persName>To-gheeree</persName>, for so the girl was called, proved as
                     faithful to her husband as if he had been a New Zeelander, and constantly
                     rejected the addresses of other seamen, professing herself a married woman,
                        (<hi rend="italics">tirra-tàne</hi>). Whatever attachment the Englishman
                     had to his <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> wife, he never attempted to take
                     her on board, foreseeing that it would be highly inconvenient to lodge the
                     numerous retinue which crawled in her garments and weighed down the hair of her
                     head. He therefore visited her on shore, and only by day, treating her with
                     plenty of the rotten part of our biscuit, which we rejected, but which she and
                     all her countrymen eagerly devoured. <persName>Mahine</persName>, the native of
                        <placeName>Borabora</placeName>, whom we had on board, had been so much
                     accustomed in his own country to obey every call of nature, that he did not
                     hesitate to gratify his appetites in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, though
                     he was too clearsighted at the same time not to perceive the vast falling off
                     from his own country-women. The force of instinct triumphed over his delicacy,
                     - and can we wonder at it, when our civilized Europeans set him the example?
                     His conduct towards the New Zeelanders in general deserves to be commended.
                     There needed not much penetration to discover that their present existence was
                     very wretched in comparison of that of the tropical islanders; but he also
                     frequently expressed his pity, whilst he enumerated to us a variety of articles
                     of which they were ignorant. He distributed the roots of yams to those who
                     visited the ship at the <placeName>Black Cape</placeName>, and always
                     accompanied the captain whenever he went to plant or sow a piece of ground in
                     this harbour. He was not, like <persName>Tupaya</persName>, so much a master of
                     their language as to converse freely with them, but he soon understood them
                     much better than any one of us, from the great analogy of their language to his
                     own. Our visit to the tropical islands had, however, contributed to make the
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> dialect more intelligible to us than
                     before, and we plainly perceived that it had a great affinity to that of the
                        <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>, which we had just left. From such
                     little <hi rend="italics">data</hi> we can only guess at the probable route
                     by which a country, so far to the south as <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>,
                     has been peopled.</p>

                  <p n="449">
                     <date>[Sunday 14.]</date>The weather continuing fair on the 14th at night, the
                     captain and my father went on shore to the observatory with telescopes, to
                     observe the emersion of one of Jupiter's satellites. The result of a great
                     number of observations, made at different times by our accurate and
                     indefatigable astronomer, <persName>Mr. William Wales</persName>, F. R. S. has
                     ascertained the longitude of <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName> to
                     be <geo select="lon">174° 25' e</geo>gast from Greenwich.</p>

                  <p n="450">
                     <date>[Monday 15.]</date>The next morning we accompanied the captain to
                        <placeName>East Bay</placeName>, where we visited several small parties of
                     the natives, in three different places. They received us very amicably,
                     presented us with fish, which was always the most valuable article they had to
                     give, and sold us several large hoopnets<ref target="#edn137">
                        <note xml:id="edn137" anchored="true"> Of the kind mentioned in
                              <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName> Compilation, vol. II. p. 392.
                        </note>
                     </ref> for our iron and <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth. Towards the
                     bottom of the bay we mounted on the same hill which <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> had ascended in his first voyage<ref target="#edn138">
                        <note xml:id="edn138" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 397. </note>
                     </ref>, intending to look out on the sea if we could perceive the Adventure.
                     But when we reached the summit, we found so thick a haze on the water, that we
                     could see no farther than two or three leagues. The monument which
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> had erected here formerly, consisting of a
                     pile of loose stones, under which some coins, bullets, &amp;c. had been buried,
                     was entirely demolished at present; the natives having probably suspected that
                     a treasure of European goods was deposited there. At the foot of this hill some
                     friendly people, like those of which <persName>captain Cook</persName> took
                     notice at this place in his first voyage, came to us, and disposed of many of
                     their arms, utensils, and dresses. In the afternoon we tried the hoopnets which
                     we had bought of the natives, and had tolerable success. These nets are made of
                     the split leaves of the flag, so often mentioned, after they have been dried
                     and beaten. No plant promises to become so useful to
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName> by transplantation as this flag. The hemp of
                     flax which the New Zeelanders make of it, with their coarse materials, is
                     excessively strong, soft, glossy, and white; and that which has been prepared
                     again in <placeName>England</placeName>, has almost equalled silk in lustre. It
                     grows on all kinds of soil, and, being perennial, may be cut down to the root
                     every year, and requires scarce any attendance or care in the cultivation.</p>

                  <p n="451">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 17.]</date>On the 17th, we spent the forenoon in cutting down a
                     number of very tall trees, of which we wished to gather the flowers, but all
                     our efforts were in vain. We had no sooner cut a tree, than it hung in a
                     thousand bindweeds and climbers from top to bottom, from which it was not in
                     our power to disengage it. The three following days we had much rain, which
                     confined us on board; nor did we receive any visits from the natives during
                     that time.</p>

                  <p n="452">
                     <date>[Sunday 21.]</date>On the 21st in the morning, none but women came from
                     the shore in two canoes, and seemed to be under great apprehensions for their
                     men, signifying to us that they were gone to fight with another party. From the
                     direction in which they pointed, we concluded that their enemies dwelt
                     somewhere in <placeName>Admiralty Bay</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="453">
                     <date>[Monday 22.]</date>On the 22d, the weather being mild and fair, the
                     captain, accompanied by <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, my father, and
                     myself, went into <placeName>West Bay</placeName>, and in its deepest recess
                     carried ashore two sows and a boar, with three cocks and two hens, which we set
                     at liberty a good way up in the woods. We flattered ourselves that having
                     chosen a marshy spot, which is not likely to be frequented by the inhabitants,
                     the animals would be left to multiply their species without any molestation. A
                     few natives only in a single canoe had seen us in the entrance of the bay, and
                     probably would not suspect that we were come on so particular an errand. If
                     therefore the southern isle of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> should in
                     course of time be stocked with hogs and fowls, we have great reason to hope
                     that the care with which we concealed them in the woods, has been the only
                     means of preserving the race.</p>

                  <p n="454">At our return seven or eight canoes arrived from the northward, some of
                     which, without paying any attention to us, went directly into <placeName>Indian
                        Cove</placeName>, whilst the rest came on board with a great variety of
                     dresses and arms, which they sold to our people. They were more dressed than we
                     had commonly seen any, during this second stay at <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, their hair was tied up, and their cheeks painted red. All
                     these circumstances conspired to confirm the account which the women had given
                     us the day before, that their husbands were gone to fight, as it is usual for
                     them to put on their best apparel on those occasions. I am much afraid that
                     their unhappy differences with other tribes, were revived on our account. Our
                     people not satisfied with purchasing all the hatchets of stone, patoo-patoos,
                     battle-axes, clothes, green jaddes, fish-hooks, &amp;c. of which the natives of
                     our acquaintance were possessed, continually enquired for more, and shewed them
                     such large and valuable pieces of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, as
                     would not fail to excite their desires. It is not improbable that as soon as
                     this appetite prevailed among the New Zeelanders, they would reflect that the
                     shortest way to gratify it, would be to rob their neighbours of such goods, as
                     the Europeans coveted. The great store of arms, ornaments, and clothes which
                     they produced at this time, seemed to prove that such a daring and villainous
                     design had really been put in execution; nor was it to be supposed that this
                     could have been accomplished without bloodshed.</p>

                  <p n="455">
                     <date>[Tuesday 23.]</date>In the morning, which was very foggy, the natives at
                     our watering-place were seen to eat a root boiled or baked by means of hot
                     stones; and <persName>Mr. Whitehouse</persName> the first mate brought some of
                     it on board, which tasted rather better than a turnep. My father returned on
                     shore with him; for a few trifles obtained some large pieces of this root, and
                     with some difficulty prevailed on two of the natives to accompany <persName>Mr.
                        Whitehouse</persName> and him into the woods, in order to point out to them
                     the species of plant to which the root belonged. They walked up a considerable
                     way without any arms whatsoever, trusting to the honesty of their guides. These
                     men pointed out a species of fern-tree, which they called <hi rend="italics">mamaghoo</hi>, as having the eatable root; and at the same time shewed
                     the difference between this, and another kind of fern-tree, which they named
                        <hi rend="italics">ponga</hi>. The first is full of a tender pulp or
                     pith, which when cut exsudes a reddish juice of a gelatinous nature, nearly
                     related to sago. This is so much the less singular, as the real sago-tree is a
                     species of fern. The good nutritive root of the mamaghoo must not, however, be
                     confounded with that wretched article of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>
                     diet, the common fern-root, or <hi rend="italics">acrostichum furcatum</hi>
                     Linn. The latter consists of nothing but insipid sticks, which after being
                     broiled over the fire for some time, are beaten or bruised on a stone with a
                     piece of wood much resembling the Taheitian cloth-beater, but round instead of
                     square, and without any grooves. The bruised mass is chewed, what little juice
                     there may be in it sucked out, and the rest thrown aside. The mamaghoo on the
                     contrary is tolerably good eating, and the only fault seems to be, that it is
                     not plentiful enough for a constant supply. At their return they were witnesses
                     of an instance of the ferocity of manners of this savage nation. A boy about
                     six or seven years old demanded a piece of broiled pinguin, which his mother
                     held in her hands. As she did not immediately comply with his demand, he took
                     up a large stone and threw it at her. The woman incensed at this action ran to
                     punish him, but she had scarcely given him a single blow, when her husband came
                     forward, beat her unmercifully, and dashed her against the ground, for
                     attempting to correct her unnatural child. Our people who were employed in
                     filling water, told my father they had frequently seen similar instances of
                     cruelty among them, and particularly, that the boys had actually struck their
                     unhappy mother, whilst the father looked on lest she should attempt to
                     retaliate. Among all savage nations the weaker sex is ill-treated, and the law
                     of the strongest is put in force. Their women are mere drudges, who prepare
                     raiment and provide dwellings, who cook and frequently collect their food, and
                     are requited by blows and all kinds of severity. At <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> it seems they carry this tyranny to excess, and the
                     males are taught from their earliest age, to hold their mothers in contempt,
                     contrary to all our principles of morality. I leave this barbarity without a
                     comment, in order to relate the remaining occurrences of this day, which was
                     pregnant in discoveries relative to the New Zeelanders. The captain, with
                        <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, and my father, went to
                        <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName> in the afternoon, where they looked after
                     the plantations, collected greens for the ships, &amp;c. In the mean while some
                     of the lieutenants went to the <placeName>Indian Cove</placeName>, with a view
                     to trade with the natives. The first objects which struck them were the
                     entrails of a human corse lying on a heap a few steps from the water. They were
                     hardly recovered from their first surprize, when the natives shewed them
                     several limbs of the body, and expressed by words and gestures that they had
                     eaten the rest. The head without the lower jaw-bone, was one of the parts which
                     remained, and from which it plainly appeared, that the deceased was a youth
                     about fifteen or sixteen years old. The skull was fractured near one of the
                     temples, as it seemed by the stroke of a pattoo-pattoo. This gave our officers
                     an opportunity of enquiring how they came in possession of the body. The
                     natives answered, that they had fought with their enemies, and had killed
                     several of them, without being able to bring away any of the dead besides this
                     youth. At the same time they acknowledged that they had lost some of their
                     friends, and pointed to several women who were seated apart, weeping and
                     cutting their foreheads with sharp stones, in commemoration of the dead. Our
                     former conjectures were now amply verified, our apprehensions that we were the
                     innocent causes of this disaster encreased, and the existence of anthropophagi
                     confirmed by another strong proof. <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName>
                     proposed to purchase the head, in order to preserve it till his return to
                     England, where it might serve as a memorial of this voyage. He offered a nail,
                     and immediately obtained the head for this price<ref target="#edn139">
                        <note xml:id="edn139" anchored="true"> The head is now deposited in the
                           collection of <persName>Mr. John Hunter</persName>, F. R. S. </note>
                     </ref>, after which he returned on board with his company, and placed it on the
                        taffarel<ref target="#edn140">
                        <note xml:id="edn140" anchored="true"> The upper part of the stern. </note>
                     </ref>. We were all occupied in examining it, when some New Zeelanders came on
                     board from the watering-place. At sight of the head they expressed an ardent
                     desire of possessing it, signifying by the most intelligible gestures that it
                     was delicious to the taste. <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> refused to
                     part with it, but agreed to cut off a small piece from the cheek, with which
                     they seemed to be well satisfied. He cut off the part he had promised, and
                     offered it to them, but they would not eat it raw, and made signs to have it
                     dressed. Therefore, in presence of all the ship's company, it was broiled over
                     the fire; after which they devoured it before our eyes with the greatest
                     avidity. The captain arriving the moment after with his company, the New
                     Zeelanders repeated the experiment once more in his presence. It operated very
                     strangely and differently on the beholders. Some there were who, in spite of
                     the abhorrence which our education inspires against the eating of human flesh,
                     did not seem greatly disinclined to feast with them, and valued themselves on
                     the brilliancy of their wit, while they compared their battle to a
                     hunting-match. On the contrary, others were so unreasonably incensed against
                     the perpetrators of this action, that they declared they could be well pleased
                     to shoot them all; they were ready to become the most detestable butchers, in
                     order to punish the imaginary crime of a people whom they had no right to
                     condemn. A few other suffered the same effects as from a dose of ipecacuanha.
                     The rest lamented this action as a brutal depravation of human nature,
                     agreeably to the principles which they had imbibed. But the sensibility of
                     Mahine, the young native of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, shone
                     out with superior lustre among us. Born and bred in a country where the
                     inhabitants have already emerged from the darkness of barbarism, and are united
                     by the bonds of society, this scene filled his mind with horror. He turned his
                     eyes from the unnatural object, and retired into the cabin, to give vent to the
                     emotions of his heart. There we found him bathed in tears; his looks were a
                     mixture of compassion and grief, and as soon as he saw us, he expressed his
                     concern for the unhappy parents of the victim. This turn which his reflections
                     had taken, gave us infinite pleasure; it spoke a humane heart, filled with the
                     warmest sentiments of social affection, and habituated to sympathize with its
                     fellow-creatures. He was so deeply affected, that it was several hours before
                     he could compose himself, and ever after, when he spoke on this subject, it was
                     not without emotion. Philosophers, who have only contemplated mankind in their
                     closets, have strenuously maintained, that all the assertions of authors,
                     ancient and modern, of the existence of men-eaters are not to be credited; and
                     there have not been wanting persons amongst ourselves who were sceptical enough
                     to refuse belief to the concurrent testimonies in the history of almost all
                     nations in this particular. But <persName>captain Cook</persName> had already,
                     in his former voyage, received strong proof that the practice of eating human
                     flesh existed in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>; and as now we have with
                     our own eyes seen the inhabitants devouring human flesh, all controversy on
                     that point must be at an end. The opinions of authors on the origin of this
                     custom are infinitely various, and have lately been collected by the very
                     learned canon <persName>Pauw</persName>, at <placeName>Xanten</placeName>, in
                     his <hi rend="italics">Recherches Philosophiques fur les Americains</hi>,
                     vol. I. p. 207. He seems to think that men were first tempted to devour each
                     other from real want of food and cruel necessity<ref target="#edn141">
                        <note xml:id="edn141" anchored="true"> His sentiments are copied by
                              <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth</persName>, who has disingenuously concealed
                           their author. See his Compilation, vol. III. p. 447. </note>
                     </ref>. Many weighty objections, however, may be made against this hypothesis;
                     amongst which the following is one of the greatest. There are very few
                     countries in the world so miserably barren as not to afford their inhabitants
                     sufficient nourishment, and those, in particular, where anthropophagi still
                     exist, do not come under that description. The northern isle of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, on a coast of near four hundred leagues, contains
                     scarcely one hundred thousand inhabitants, according to the most probable guess
                     which can be made; a number inconsiderable for that vast space of country, even
                     allowing the settlements to be confined only to the sea-shore. The great
                     abundance of fish, and the beginnings of agriculture in the <placeName>Bay of
                        Plenty</placeName> and other parts of the Northern Isle, are more than
                     sufficient to maintain this number, because they have always had enough to
                     supply strangers with what was deemed superfluous. It is true, before the dawn
                     of the arts among them, before the invention of nets, and before the
                     cultivation of potatoes, the means of subsistence may have been more difficult;
                     but then the number of inhabitants must likewise have been infinitely smaller.
                     Single instances are not conclusive in this case, though they prove how far the
                     wants of the body may stimulate mankind to extraordinary actions. In 1772,
                     during a famine which happened throughout all <placeName>Germany</placeName>, a
                     herdsman was taken on the manor of <persName>Baron Boineburg</persName>, in
                        <placeName>Hessia</placeName>, who had been urged by hunger to kill and
                     devour a boy, and afterwards to make a practice of it for several months. From
                     his confession it appeared, that he looked upon the flesh of young children as
                     a very delicious food; and the gestures of the New Zeelanders indicated exactly
                     the same thing. An old woman in the province of
                        <placeName>Matogrosso</placeName>, in <placeName>Brasil</placeName>,
                     declared to the Portuguese governor<ref target="#edn142">
                        <note xml:id="edn142" anchored="true">
                           <persName>M. de Pinto</persName>, now ambassador from
                              <placeName>Portugal</placeName> at the British court; a nobleman
                           equally eminent for his extensive knowledge and his excellent heart.
                        </note>
                     </ref>, that she had eaten human flesh several times, liked it very much, and
                     should be very glad to feast upon it again, especially if it was part of a
                     little boy. But it would be absurd to suppose from such circumstances, that
                     killing men for the sake of feasting upon them, has ever been the spirit of a
                     whole nation; because it is utterly incompatible with the existence of society.
                     Slight causes have ever produced the most remarkable events among mankind, and
                     the most trifling quarrels have fired their minds with incredible inveteracy
                     against each other. Revenge has always been a strong passion among barbarians,
                     who are less subject to the sway of reason than civilized people, and has
                     stimulated them to a degree of madness which is capable of all kinds of
                     excesses. The people who first consumed the body of their enemies, seem to have
                     been bent upon exterminating their very inanimate remains, from an excess of
                     passion; but, by degrees, finding the meat wholesome and palatable, it is not
                     to be wondered that they should make a practice of eating their enemies as
                     often as they killed any, since the action of eating human flesh, whatever our
                     education may teach us to the contrary, is certainly neither unnatural nor
                     criminal in itself. It can only become dangerous as far as it steels the mind
                     against that compassionate fellow-feeling which is the great basis of civil
                     society; and for this reason we find it naturally banished from every people as
                     soon as civilization has made any progress among them. But though we are too
                     much polished to be canibals, we do not find it unnaturally and savagely cruel
                     to take the field, and to cut one another's throats by thousands, without a
                     single motive, besides the ambition of a prince, or the caprice of his
                     mistress! Is it not from prejudice that we are disgusted with the idea of
                     eating a dead man, when we feel no remorse in depriving him of life? If the
                     practice of eating human flesh makes men unfeeling and brutal, we have
                     instances that civilized people, who would perhaps, like some of our sailors,
                     have turned sick at the thought of eating human flesh, have committed
                     barbarities without example amongst canibals. A New Zeelander, who kills and
                     eats his enemy, is a very different being from an European, who, for his
                     amusement, tears an infant from the mother's breast, in cool blood, and throws
                     it on the earth to feed his hound<ref target="#edn143">
                        <note xml:id="edn143" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Bishop Las Casas</persName> says, he has seen this atrocious
                           crime committed in <placeName>America</placeName> by Spanish soldiers.
                        </note>
                     </ref>
                  </p>

                  <p n="456">
                     <q>
                        <l>Neque hic lupis mos nec fuit leonibus.</l>
                        <l>Nunquam nisi in dispar feris.</l>
                        <persName>Hor</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="457">The New Zeelanders never eat their adversaries, unless they are killed
                     in battle; they never kill their relations for the purpose of eating them; they
                     do not even eat them if they die of a natural death, and they take no prisoners
                     with a view to fatten them for their repast<ref target="#edn144">
                        <note xml:id="edn144" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 389, 390. </note>
                     </ref>; though these circumstances have been related, with more or less truth
                     of the American Indians. It is therefore not improbable, that in process of
                     time they will entirely lay aside this custom; and the introduction of new
                     domestic animals into their country might hasten that period, since greater
                     affluence would tend to make them more sociable. Their religion does not seem
                     likely to be an obstacle, because from what we could judge, they are not
                     remarkably superstitious, and it is only among very bigoted nations, that the
                     custom of offering human flesh to the gods, has prevailed after civilization.
                           <persName>Tupaya<ref target="#edn145">
                           <note xml:id="edn145" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. III. p. 472. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, the only man who could freely converse with the New Zeelanders,
                     soon learnt that they acknowledged a supreme Being; and this spark of divine
                     revelation probably remains amongst all nations on the globe. To this they add
                     the belief of some inferior divinities, so correspondent to those of the
                     Taheitians, that their system of polytheism must be of very ancient date, and
                     seems to derive its origin from their common ancestors. We never observed a
                     single ceremony in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, which could be supposed
                     to have a religious tendency; and I know of only two circumstances which may be
                     distantly construed to favour of superstition. The first is the name of <hi rend="italics">atuee</hi>, " the bird of the divinity," which they
                     sometimes give to a species of creeper<ref target="#edn146">
                        <note xml:id="edn146" anchored="true"> Our sailors called this the poe-bird.
                           Its common <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> name is kogo. </note>
                     </ref> (<hi rend="italics">certhia cincinnata</hi>). This name seems to
                     indicate a veneration like that which is paid to herons, and kingfishers at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>; but I cannot say that they ever expressed the least wish
                     to preserve the life of this bird in preference to the rest. The second, is the
                     custom of wearing an amulet of green jadde on the breast, from a string round
                     the neck. This piece of stone is of the size of two crown-pieces, and carved so
                     as to bear a rude resemblance to a human being. These they call e-teeghee, a
                     name which is doubtless equivalent to the Taheitian e-tee<ref target="#edn147">
                        <note xml:id="edn147" anchored="true"> Better pronounced E-Tee-ee. </note>
                     </ref>. In that island, and the adjacent group, e-tee signifies a wooden image
                     of the human figure, erected on a pole at their cemeteries, in memory of the
                     dead, but to which no worship nor particular respect is paid. The
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> teeghee seems to be worn with a similar
                     view, but not to be better respected; for though they did not part with it for
                     a trifle, yet with half a yard of broad cloth or red kersey, which were our
                     best goods in <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, we never failed
                     to purchase it. Besides this, they often wear several rows of human teeth round
                     the neck, but we understood that they were only the memorials of their prowess,
                     since they had belonged to the enemies whom they had killed. It always appeared
                     to us, that they have no priests or jugglers of any kind among them, which
                     accounts for their having so little superstition. When the comforts of life are
                     multiplied, it is possible that some individuals may be artful enough to
                     improve upon their present ideas of religion, in order to enjoy exclusive
                     advantages; for it has often been the fate of mankind, that the most sacred,
                     and most inestimable gift of heaven, has served as a cloak under cover of which
                     they have been deluded.</p>

                  <p n="458">Having fitted the ship to encounter the rigorous climate of the south,
                     and received on board her provision of fresh water and wood, as well as the
                     biscuit which had been baked over again, we re-imbarked all the tents from the
                        <date>[Wednesd. 24.]</date>shore, and on the 24th, early in the morning,
                     unmoored and rode by a single anchor. The natives immediately repaired to the
                     beach which we had left, and finding there a heap of bread-dust which had been
                     rejected as unfit for use at the revisal of our biscuit, they fell to, and
                     consumed it all, though our hogs had before refused to touch it. We could not
                     attribute this proceding to necessity, because they had plenty of fresh fish,
                     of which they daily sold us enough for our consumption. It was rather owing to
                     the diversity of their taste from ours, or to the natural inclination for
                     variety, which made them eat the worst of vegetable food, because it was a
                     rarity, in preference to fish, which is their constant diet. They had another
                     motive for visiting the place of our late establishment; this was, to pick up
                     any little trifles, such as nails, rags, &amp;c. which we might have left
                     behind. Whilst they were so employed, some others came from the interior parts
                     of the bay, and offered a great quantity of their tools and weapons to
                     sell.</p>

                  <p n="459">In the afternoon, a boat was sent on shore to bury a bottle at the foot
                     of a tree, with a letter for <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>, in case he
                     should come into the harbour after our departure. Another boat, with several
                     officers, and my father, went to <placeName>Indian Cove</placeName>, where the
                     entrails of the body still lay on the ground. The war-canoe, in which the
                     expedition had been made, had a carved head ornamented with bunches of brown
                     feathers, and a double-forked prong projected from it, on which the heart of
                     their slain enemy was tranfixed. Our gentlemen purchased a quantity of their
                     prepared hemp or flax, and many fish-hooks, armed with bone, which, according
                     to the account of the natives, was taken from the human arm.</p>

                  <p n="460">
                     <date>[Thursday 25.]</date>At <time>four o'clock</time> the next morning, a
                     boat was sent to the <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName>, in order to take a few
                     cabbages out of our plantations. My father took that opportunity of searching
                     the shore for the last time, and was fortunate enough to find some plants which
                     we had not seen before. In the mean while we hove the anchor, set sail, and
                     took up the boat on our way; but finding the current and wind against us, we
                     were forced to come to again about <time>seven o'clock</time>, between
                        <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName> and <placeName>Long Island</placeName>. Here
                     we lay an hour or two, and then set sail with a more favourable breeze, which
                     carried us into <placeName>Cook's Strait</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="461">We stood close in shore under cape Tera-Wittee, and fired several guns
                     to give the Adventure notice of our approach, in case she had lain in one of
                     the adjacent harbours. Between the <placeName>Capes Tera-Wittee</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Palliser</placeName>, we discovered a very deep bay, of which the
                     shores had every where a gentle slope, and especially towards the bottom, where
                     the hills were removed to such a distance, that we could but just discern them.
                     If there is a sufficient depth of water for ships in this bay, and of that we
                     had no room to doubt, it appears to be a most convenient spot for an European
                     settlement. There is a great stretch of land fit for cultivation, and easily
                     defensible; there is likewise plenty of wood, and almost certain indications of
                     a considerable river; and lastly, the country does not seem to be very
                     populous, so that there would be little danger of quarrels with the natives;
                     advantages which are not frequently to be met with jointly in many spots of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. The flag (<hi rend="italics">phormium
                        tenax</hi>) of which the natives make all their clothes, mats, ropes, and
                     nets, affords such an excellent kind of flax, which is at once glossy, elastic,
                     and strong, that it might become an article of commerce in
                        <placeName>India</placeName>, where cordage and canvas is wanted. Perhaps in
                     future ages, when the maritime powers of Europe lose their American colonies,
                     they may think of making new establishments in more distant regions; and if it
                     were ever possible for Europeans to have humanity enough to acknowledge the
                     indigenous tribes of the South Sea as their brethren, we might have settlements
                     which would not be defiled with the blood of innocent nations.</p>

                  <p n="462">We continued firing guns as we stood past this bay, and <date>[Friday
                        26.]</date>the next morning having doubled <placeName>Cape
                        Palliser</placeName>, we ran along the coast to the northward till the
                     evening, likewise firing guns from time to time. Our attempts to rejoin our
                     consort were to no purpose; we heard no answer to all our signals, though we
                     hearkened with an attention, and an eagerness which plainly shewed how
                     unwillingly we ventured on a second cruize among numberless dangers without a
                     companion. We were forced at last to give up the thought of seeing her again,
                     and about <time>six o'clock</time> took our departure from <placeName>Cape
                        Palliser</placeName>, steering to the S. S. E.</p>

                  <p n="463">The scurvy, which had afflicted some of our people after the first
                     tedious cruize to the south, between the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName> and <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, had been entirely
                     subdued by the wholesome diet on fish, and the drinking of spruce-beer in that
                     harbour; and afterwards by the excellent greens in <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>. Our disagreeable passage in winter from <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> to <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, had revived the
                     symptoms of the disease in many persons, and in some to a considerable degree;
                     but the continual supply of fresh vegetables, which we received at that island,
                     together with the provision of excellent pork at the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>,
                     had entirely re-established them. Our second stay at <placeName>Queen's
                        Charlotte's Sound</placeName> had likewise furnished us, as before, with
                     abundance of celery and scurvy-grass, which counteracted the noxious effects of
                     salted meat; so that we were, to appearance, in a good state of health at our
                     second departure from thence. It may, however, justly be questioned, whether
                     the continual hardships and labours which we had undergone, had not in reality
                     made the shew of health deceitful, and impaired the body so much that it was
                     not able to resist so long as it had formerly done. The officers and passengers
                     entered upon this second cruize under several difficulties which did not exist
                     before. They had now no live-stock to be compared to that which they took from
                     the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>; and the little store of
                     provisions which had supplied their table with variety in preference to that of
                     the common sailor, was now so far consumed, that they were nearly upon a level,
                     especially as the seamen were inured to that way of life by constant habit
                     almost from their infancy; and the others had never experienced it before. The
                     hope of meeting with new lands was vanished, the topics of common conversation
                     were exhausted, the cruize to the south could not present any thing new, but
                     appeared in all its chilling horrors before us, and the absence of our consort
                     doubled every danger. We had enjoyed a few agreeable days between the tropics,
                     we had feasted as well as the produce of various islands would permit, and we
                     had been entertained with the novelty of many objects among different nations;
                     but, according to the common vicissitudes of fortune, this agreeable moment was
                     to be replaced by a long period of fogs and frosty weather, of fasting, and of
                     tedious uniformity. The late <persName>Abbé Chappe</persName>, in his voyage to
                        <placeName>California</placeName>, (or his compiler, <persName>M.
                        Cassini</persName>, in his name), observes<ref target="#edn148">
                        <note xml:id="edn148" anchored="true"> Pag. 22. </note>
                     </ref>, " that variety alone has charms for the traveller, who goes in quest of
                     her from one country to another." His philosophy is at the same time of such an
                     exalted nature, that he pronounces<ref target="#edn149">
                        <note xml:id="edn149" anchored="true"> Pag. 13. </note>
                     </ref> " the life which is led at sea to be tedious and uniform only to those
                     who are not accustomed to look round them, and who behold all nature with the
                     eye of indifference." Had the good <persName>Abbé</persName> been unfortunate
                     enough to make a visit to the antarctic circle, without the company of several
                     hundred fattened fowls, which kept him in good humour on his short trip from
                        <placeName>Cadiz</placeName> to <placeName>Vera Cruz</placeName>, his
                     philosophy would not have taken so high a flight. But though he found variety
                     at sea, he was not so fortunate in <placeName>Mexico<ref target="#edn150">
                           <note xml:id="edn150" anchored="true"> Pag. 22. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. Here he crossed great tracts of uncultivated country and
                     extensive forests, he saw nature in a savage state, allowed that she was rich
                     and beautiful; but, in the space of a few days, her multiplicity of charms
                     became insipid and uniform in his eyes. And yet this traveller assures us, that
                     he was astronomer, botanist, zoologist, mineralogist, chymist, and
                     philosopher!</p>

                  <p n="464">We quitted the shores of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> with ideas
                     very different from those of <persName>Abbé Chappe</persName>; and if any thing
                     alleviated the dreariness of the prospect with a great part of our ship-mates,
                     it was the hope of completing the circle round the
                        <placeName>South-Pole</placeName> in a high latitude during the next
                     inhospitable summer, and of returning to <placeName>England</placeName> within
                     the space of eight months. This hope contributed to animate the spirits of our
                     people during the greatest part of our continuance in bad weather; but in the
                     end it vanished like a dream, and the only thought which could make them
                     amends, was the certainty of passing another season among the happy islands in
                     the torrid zone.</p>

                  <p n="465"> ;</p>

                  <p n="466"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="3" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. III.<lb/>
                     The second course towards the high southern latitudes from <placeName>New
                           Zeeland</placeName> to <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="467">
                     <date>[1773. november.][Saturday 27.]</date>THE morning after we had taken our
                     departure, we had a N. N. W. wind, which raised the thermometer to 64 deg. The
                     two next days it stood at 54 deg. then at 48; and when we were in about <geo select="lat">49° of s</geo>outh latitude, at 44 1/2 deg. On the 28th of
                     November, we observed a number of seals, or perhaps sea-lions, passing by us at
                     a distance towards the land which we had left. From that time <date>[1773.
                        December][Monday 6.]</date>to the 6th of December we daily saw great flocks
                     of blue and other petrels, together with the different species of albatrosses,
                     the skuas or grey gulls, many pinguins, and abundance of sea-weed. About seven
                     in the evening, on that day, we were in the latitude of <geo select="lat">51°
                        33' s</geo>outh, and long. <geo select="lon">180°</geo>; consequently just
                     at the point of the antipodes of <placeName>London</placeName>. The remembrance
                     of domestic felicity, and of the sweets of society, called forth a sigh from
                     every heart which felt the tender ties of filial or parental affection. We are
                     the first Europeans, and I believe I may add, the first human beings, who have
                     reached this point, where it is probable none will come after us. A common
                     report prevails indeed in <placeName>England</placeName> concerning
                        <persName>Sir Francis Drake</persName>, who is said to have visited the
                     antipodes, which the legend expresses by " his having passed under the middle
                     arch of London-bridge:" but this is a mistake, as his track lay along the coast
                     of <placeName>America</placeName>, and probably originates from his having
                     passed the <hi rend="italics">periœci</hi>, or the point in <geo select="lon">180°</geo> long. on the same circle of north latitude, on the
                     coast of <placeName>California</placeName>.</p>
                  <!--AN April 4: Forster wrote of between the coordinate and the direction.-->
                  <p n="468">In proportion as we advanced to the southward the thermometer
                        <date>[Friday 10.]</date>fell; and on the 10th, in the morning, the wind
                     coming more ahead, it descended to 37°. At noon we had reached the latitude of
                        <geo select="lat">59° s</geo>outh, without having met with any ice, though
                     we fell in with it the preceding year on the 10th of December, between the <geo select="lat">50th and 51st deg. of s</geo>outh latitude. It is difficult to
                     account for this difference; perhaps a severe winter preceding our first course
                     from the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, might accumulate more ice
                     that year than the next, which is the more probable, as we learnt at the Cape
                     that the winter had been sharper there than usual; perhaps a violent storm
                     might break the polar ice, and drive it so far to the northward as we found it;
                     and perhaps both these causes might concur, with others, to produce this
                     effect.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 7: Wrote it as 50th & 51st.. -->

                  <p n="469">On the 11th, at night, the cold encreased, the thermometer standing at
                     34 deg. and at <time>four o'clock</time> the next <date>[Sunday
                     12.]</date>morning a large island of floating ice was seen ahead, which we
                     passed an hour afterwards. At <time>eight o'clock</time> the thermometer was
                     already at 31 1/2 deg. the air being probably refrigerated by the ice, though
                     we did not see more than this one piece. At noon we found the latitude to be
                        <geo select="lat">61° 46' s</geo>outh. The next morning the thermometer
                     stood at 31 deg. and we ran to the eastward with a fresh breeze, though we had
                     a surprising fall of snow, which filled the air to such a degree that we could
                     not see ten yards before us. Our friend <persName>Mahine</persName> had already
                     expressed his surprize at several little snow and hail showers on the preceding
                     days, this phӕnomenon being utterly unknown in his country. The appearance of "
                     white stones," which melted in his hand, was altogether miraculous in his eyes,
                     and though we endeavoured to explain to him that cold was the cause of their
                     formation, yet I believe his ideas on that subject were never very clear. The
                     heavy fall of snow this day surprised him more than what he had seen before,
                     and after a long consideration of its singular qualities, he told us he would
                     call it the <hi rend="italics">white rain</hi> when he came back to his
                     country. He did not see the first ice on account of the early hour of the
                     morning; but two days after, in about <geo select="lat">65 deg. of s</geo>outh
                     latitude, he was struck with astonishment upon seeing one of the largest
                     pieces, and the day following presented him with an extensive field of ice,
                     which blocked up our farther progress to the south, and gave him great
                     pleasure, supposing it to be land. We told him that so far from being land, it
                     was nothing but fresh water, which we found some difficulty to convince him off
                     at first, till we shewed him the ice which was formed in the scuttled cask on
                     the deck. He assured us, however, that he would at all events call this the
                        <hi rend="italics">white land</hi>, by way of distinguishing it from all
                     the rest. Already, at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, he had collected a
                     number of little slender twigs, which he carefully tied in a bundle, and made
                     use of instead of journals. For every island which he had seen and visited,
                     after his departure from the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>, he had
                     selected a little twig; so that his collection amounted at present to nine or
                     ten, of which he remembered the names perfectly well in the same order as we
                     had seen them, and the white land, or <hi rend="italics">whennua
                     tèatèa</hi>, was the last. He enquired frequently how many other countries we
                     should meet with in our way to <placeName>England</placeName>, and formed a
                     separate bundle of them, which he studied every day with equal care as the
                     first. The tediousness of this part of our voyage probably made him so eager to
                     know how it would end; and the salt provisions, together with the cold climate,
                     contributed to disgust him. His usual amusement was to separate the red
                     feathers from the aprons, used in dancing, which he had purchased at
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and to join eight or ten of them
                     together into a little tuft, by means of coco-nut core. The rest of his time he
                     passed in walking on deck, visiting the officers and petty officers, and
                     warming himself by the fire in the captain's cabin. We took this opportunity to
                     improve in the knowledge of his language, and, by degrees, revised the whole
                     vocabulary which we had collected at the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>.
                     By this method we became possessed of a fund of useful intelligence concerning
                     his country and the adjacent isles, which led us to make many enquiries at our
                     subsequent return to those islands.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 3: Again, 'of' as well as deg. written out.-->
                  <p n="470">The ice-fields appeared, in different parts of the horizon, about us on
                     the 15th in the morning, so that we were in a manner embayed; and, as we saw no
                     possibility of advancing to the south, we ran to the N. N. E. to get clear of
                     them. The weather, which was already foggy, became thicker towards noon, and
                     made our situation, amidst a great number of floating rocks of ice, extremely
                     dangerous. About <time>one o'clock</time>, whilst the people were at dinner, we
                     were alarmed by the sudden appearance of a large island of ice just a head of
                     us. It was absolutely impossible either to wear or tack the ship<ref target="#edn151">
                        <note xml:id="edn151" anchored="true">
                           <hi rend="italics">i.e</hi>. To go round either with or against the
                           wind. </note>
                     </ref>, on account of its proximity, and our only resource was to keep as near
                     the wind as possible, and to try to weather the danger. We were in the most
                     dreadful suspense for a few minutes, and though we fortunately succeeded, yet
                     the ship passed within her own length to windward of it. Notwithstanding the
                     constant perils to which our course exposed us in this unexplored ocean, our
                     ship's company were far from being so uneasy as might have been expected; and,
                     as in battle the sight of death becomes familiar and often unaffecting, so
                     here, by daily experiencing such hair-breadth escapes, we passed unconcernedly
                     on, as if the waves, the winds, and rocks of ice had not the power to hurt us.
                     The pieces of ice had a variety of shapes, in the same manner as those which we
                     had observed to the southward of the <placeName>Indian Ocean</placeName>; and
                     many pyramids, obelisks, and church-spires appeared from time to time. Their
                     height was not much inferior to that which we had observed among the first
                     islands of ice in 1772; and many likewise resembled them in being of a great
                     extent and perfectly level at top.</p>

                  <p n="471">The number of birds which we had hitherto met with on our passage,
                     would have persuaded any other voyagers but ourselves of the approach of land.
                     We were, however, so much used to their appearance on the sea at present, as
                     never once to form any expectation of discovering land from that circumstance.
                     Flocks of blue petrels and pintadas, many albatrosses, with now and then a
                     solitary skua had attended us every day; and to these, since our approach to
                     the ice, we could join the snowy and antarctic petrels and the fulmars.
                     However, pinguins, sea-weed, or seals, had not been observed since the
                     10th.</p>

                  <p n="472">The weather, which was extremely moist and disagreeably cold, proved
                     unfavourable to the doves and pigeons which many people had purchased at the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>,
                     and to the singing-birds which they had been at great pains to catch alive at
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. We had five doves at our departure from
                     this country, all which died one after another before the 16th of December,
                     being much more exposed to the cold in our cabins, than in the sailors births.
                     The thermometer in our cabins was never more than 5 deg. higher than in the
                     open air on deck, and their situation abreast of the main-mast, where the
                     strain of the ship is greatest, exposed them to currents of air, and made them
                     admit water like sieves.</p>

                  <p n="473">On the 16th, in the afternoon, and on the 17th, we <date>[Friday
                        17.]</date>hoisted out our boats and collected some loose pieces of ice to
                     fill our empty casks with fresh water. The ice which we picked up was old and
                     spungy, and impregnated with saline particles, from having long been in a state
                     of decay; therefore did not afford us very good water, but it was drinkable,
                     particularly if we let the pieces of ice lie on deck for some time, by which
                     means the salt-water was almost entirely drained off. From this time till the
                     20th we saw no birds about us, which disappeared without any visible cause; but
                     on that day some albatrosses appeared again.</p>

                  <p n="474">Having left the ice behind which obstructed our passage, we had
                     gradually advanced to the southward again, that being our principal object, and
                     on the <date>[Monday 20.]</date>20th in the afternoon, we crossed the antarctic
                     circle the second time during our voyage. The weather was wet and foggy, ice
                     islands were numerous around us, and the gale was very brisk. Many antarctic
                     petrels, and a whale which spouted up the water near us, seemed to indicate our
                     entrance into the frigid zone. At night two seals appeared, which we had not
                     seen for fourteen days past, and gave some faint hopes of seeing land to
                     several of our shipmates; but our course disappointed their expectations, by
                     continuing within the circle as far as <geo select="lat">67° 12' S.</geo> lat.
                     for several days following.</p>

                  <p n="475">
                     <date>[Thursday 23.]</date>On the 23d in the afternoon, we were surrounded with
                     islands of ice, and the sea was in a manner covered with small fragments. The
                     ship was therefore brought to, the boats hoisted out, and a great quantity of
                     good ice taken on board. The birds were at present very numerous about us
                     again, and some antarctic and other petrels were shot and taken up, which we
                     had an opportunity of drawing and describing. About this time many persons were
                     afflicted with violent rheumatic pains, head-aches, swelled glands, and
                     catarrhal fevers, which some attributed to the use of ice-water. My father, who
                     had complained of a cold for several days past, was obliged to keep his bed
                     today, having a severe rheumatism with a fever. His complaint seemed rather to
                     arise from the wretched accommodations which he had on board, every thing in
                     his cabin rotting in the wet which it admitted, and being mouldy. The cold was
                     so sensible there this day in particular, that he found only a difference of
                     two degrees and a half between the thermometer there, and that upon the
                     deck.</p>

                  <p n="476">After hoisting in our boats we made sail to the northward, as much as a
                     contrary wind permitted, during all the night and the next day. <date>[Saturday
                        25.]</date>On the 25th, the weather was clear and fair, but the wind died
                     away to a perfect calm, upwards of ninety large ice islands being in sight at
                     noon. This being Christmas-day, the captain according to custom, invited the
                     officers and mates to dinner, and one of the lieutenant's entertained the
                     petty-officers. The sailors feasted on a double portion of pudding, regaling
                     themselves with the brandy of their allowance, which they had saved for this
                     occasion some months before-hand, being sollicitous to get very drunk, though
                     they are commonly sollicitous about nothing else. The sight of an immense
                     number of icy masses, amongst which we drifted at the mercy of the current,
                     every moment in danger of being dashed to pieces against them, could not deter
                     the sailors from indulging in their favourite amusement. As long as they had
                     brandy left, they would persist to keep Christmas " like Christians," though
                     the elements had conspired together for their destruction. Their long
                     acquaintance with a sea-faring life had inured them to all kinds of perils, and
                     their heavy labour, with the inclemencies of weather, and other hardships,
                     making their muscles rigid and their nerves obtuse, had communicated
                     insensibility to the mind. It will easily be conceived, that as they do not
                     feel for themselves sufficiently to provide for their own safety, they must be
                     incapable of feeling for others. Subjected to a very strict command, they also
                     exercise a tyrannical sway over those whom fortune places in their power.
                     Accustomed to face an enemy, they breathe nothing but war. By force of habit
                     even killing is become so much their passion, that we have seen many instances
                     during our voyage, where they have expressed a horrid eagerness to fire upon
                     the natives on the slightest pretences. Their way of life in general prevents
                     their enjoying domestic comforts; and gross animal appetites fill the place of
                     purer affections.</p>

                  <p n="477">
                     <q>
                        <l>At last, extinct each social feeling, fell</l>
                        <l>And joyless inhumanity pervades</l>
                        <l>And petrifies the heart.</l> ______<persName>Thompson</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="478">Though they are members of a civilized society, they may in some
                     measure be looked upon as a body of uncivilized men, rough, passionate,
                     revengeful, but likewise brave, sincere, and true to each other.</p>

                  <p n="479">At noon the observation of the sun's altitude determined our latitude
                     to be <geo select="lat">66° 22' s</geo>outh, so that we were just returned out
                     of the antarctic circle. We had scarcely any night during our stay in the
                     frigid zone, so that I find several articles in my father's journal, written by
                     the light of the sun, within a few minutes before the hour of midnight. The
                     sun's stay below the horizon was so very short this night likewise, that we had
                     a very strong twilight all the time. <persName>Mahine</persName> was struck
                     with the greatest astonishment at this phӕnomenon, and would scarcely believe
                     his senses. All our endeavours to explain it to him miscarried, and he assured
                     us he despaired of finding belief among his countrymen, when he should come
                     back to recount the wonders of petrified rain, and of perpetual day. The first
                     Venetians who explored the northern extremes of the European continent, were
                     equally surprised at the continual appearance of the sun above the horizon, and
                     relate that they could only distinguish day from night, by the instinct of the
                     sea-fowl, which went to roost on shore, for the space of four hours<ref target="#edn152">
                        <note xml:id="edn152" anchored="true"> Pietro Quirino sailed in April 1431,
                           and was miserably shipwrecked at the isle of Roest or Rusten, on the
                           coast of <placeName>Norway</placeName>, under the polar circle, in
                           January 1432. ___See Navigazioni et Viaggi raccolti da G. B. Ramusio.
                           Venet. 1574. vol. II. p. 204, 210. </note>
                     </ref>. As we were in all likelihood far distant from any land, this indication
                     failed us, and we have often observed numerous birds on the wing about us all
                     the night, and particularly great flocks of different species, so late as
                        <time>eleven o'clock</time>.</p>

                  <p n="480">At six in the evening, we counted one hundred and five large masses of
                     ice around us from the deck, the weather continuing very clear, fair, and
                     perfectly calm. Towards noon <date>[Sunday 26.]</date>the next day we were
                     still in the same situation, with a very drunken crew, and from the mast-head
                     observed one hundred and sixty-eight ice islands, some of which were half a
                     mile long, and none less than the hull of the ship. The whole scene looked like
                     the wrecks of a shattered world, or as the poets describe some regions of hell;
                     an idea which struck us the more forcibly, as execrations, oaths, and curses
                     re-echoed about us on all sides.</p>

                  <p n="481">
                     <date>[Monday 27.]</date>A faint breeze sprung up in the afternoon, with which
                     we made slow advances to the northward, the number of ice islands decreasing in
                     proportion as we receded from the antarctic circle. About four the next
                     morning, we hoisted out our boats, and took in a fresh provision of ice. The
                     weather changed soon after, the wind coming about to the north-eastward, which
                     brought on much snow and sleet. My father, and twelve other persons were again
                     much afflicted with rheumatic pains, and confined to their beds. The scurvy did
                     not yet appear under any dangerous form in the ship, and all those who had any
                     slight symptoms of it, amongst whom I was one, drank plentifully of the fresh
                     wort, quite warm, twice a day, and abstained as much as possible from
                     salt-diet. A general languor and sickly look however, manifested itself in
                     almost every person's face, which threatened us with more dangerous
                     consequences. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> himself was likewise pale and
                     lean, entirely lost his appetite, and laboured under a perpetual costiveness. </p>

                  <p n="482">
                     <date>[1774. January.][Saturday 1.]</date>We advanced to the northward as much
                     as the winds would permit us, and lost sight of the ice on the first of January
                     1774, in <geo select="lat">59° 7' S.</geo> latitude. <date>[Tuesday
                     4.]</date>On the 4th, the wind blowing from the westward was very boisterous,
                     and obliged us to keep all our sails double-reefed; the sea ran high, and the
                     ship worked very heavily, rolling violently from side to side. This continued
                     till the 6th at noon, <date>[Thursday 6.]</date>when, having reached <geo select="lat">51° of S.</geo>latitude, we bore away from the wind, to the N.
                     N. E. We were now within a few degrees of the track which we had made in June
                     and July last, in going from <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> to
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and had directed our course towards it, in
                     order to leave no considerable part of this great ocean unexplored. As far as
                     we had hitherto advanced, we had found no land, not even indications of land;
                     our first track had crossed the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> in the middle
                     latitudes, or between <geo select="lat">40 and 50 degrees</geo>. In our course
                     till Christmas, we had explored the greatest part of it between <geo select="lat">60 degrees</geo> and the antarctic circle; and the present
                     course to the northward had crossed the space between the two former runs. If
                     any land has escaped us, it must be an island, whose distance from
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, and situation in an uncouth climate cannot
                     make it valuable to this country. It is obvious that to search a sea of such
                     extent as the South Sea, in order to be certain of the existence, or
                     non-existence of a small island, would require many voyages in numberless
                     different tracks, and cannot be effected in a single expedition. But it is
                     sufficient for us, to have proved that no large land or continent exists in the
                     South Sea within the temperate zone, and that if it exists at all, we have at
                     least confined it within the antarctic circle.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 4: Again, 'of'. -->
                  <p n="483">The long continuance in these cold climates began now to hang heavily
                     on our crew, especially as it banished all hope of returning home this year,
                     which had hitherto supported their spirits. At first a painful despondence,
                     owing to the dreary prospect of another year's cruize to the South, seemed
                     painted in every countenance; till by degrees they resigned themselves to their
                     fate, with a kind of sullen indifference. It must be owned however, that
                     nothing could be more dejecting than the entire ignorance of our future
                     destination, which, without any apparent reason, was constantly kept a secret
                     to every person in the ship.</p>

                  <p n="484">We now stood to the north-eastward for a few days, till we came so far
                     as <geo select="lat">47° 52' s</geo>outh latitude, where the thermometer rose
                     to 52 degrees. On that day, which was the 11th, <date>[Monday 11.]</date>at
                     noon, the course was directed to the S. E. again, though this frequent and
                     sudden change of climate could not fail of proving very hurtful to our health
                     in general. <date>[Saturday 15.]</date>On the 15th the wind encreased very
                     much, and in a short time blew a tempestuous gale, which took</p>

                  <p n="485">
                     <q>
                        <l>__________the russian billows by the top</l>
                        <l>Curling their monstrous heads and hanging them</l>
                        <l>With deaf'ning clamours in the slippery shrouds.</l>
                        <persName>Shakespeare</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="486">A <time>nine o'clock</time> a huge mountainous wave struck the ship on
                     the beam, and filled the decks with a deluge of water. It poured through the
                     sky-light over our heads, and extinguished the candle, leaving us for a moment
                     in doubt, whether we were not entirely overwhelmed and sinking into the abyss.
                     Every thing was afloat in my father's cabin, and his bed was thoroughly soaked.
                     His rheumatism, which had now afflicted him above a fortnight, was still so
                     violent as to have almost deprived him of the use of his legs, and his pains
                     redoubled in the morning. <date>[Sunday 16.]</date>Our situation at present was
                     indeed very dismal, even to those who preserved the blessing of health; to the
                     sick, whose crippled limbs were tortured with excessive pain, it was
                     insupportable. The ocean about us had a furious aspect, and seemed incensed at
                     the presumption of a few intruding mortals. A gloomy melancholy air loured on
                     the brows of our shipmates, and a dreadful silence reigned amongst us. Salt
                     meat, our constant diet, was become loathsome to all, and even to those who had
                     been bred to a nautical life from their tender years: the hour of dinner was
                     hateful to us, for the well known smell of the victuals had no sooner reached
                     our nose, than we found it impossible to partake of them with a hearty
                     appetite.</p>

                  <p n="487">It will appear from hence that this voyage was not to be compared to
                     any preceding one, for the multitude of hardships and distresses which attended
                     it. Our predecessors in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> had always
                     navigated within the tropic, or at least in the best parts of the temperate
                     zone; they had almost constantly enjoyed mild easy weather, and sailed in sight
                     of lands, which were never so wretchedly destitute as not to afford them
                     refreshments from time to time. Such a voyage would have been merely a party of
                     pleasure to us; continually entertained with new and often agreeable objects,
                     our minds would have been at ease, our conversation cheerful, our bodies
                     healthy, and our whole situation desirable and happy. Ours was just the reverse
                     of this; our southern cruizes were uniform and tedious in the highest degree;
                     the ice, the fogs, the storms and ruffled surface of the sea formed a
                     disagreeable scene, which was seldom cheered by the reviving beams of the sun;
                     the climate was rigorous and our food detestable. In short, we rather vegetated
                     than lived; we withered, and became indifferent to all that animates the soul
                     at other times. We sacrificed our health, our feelings, our enjoyments, to the
                     honour of pursuing a track unattempted before. This was indeed as the poet
                     says,</p>

                  <p n="488">
                     <q>______ propter vitam vivendi perdere causas.
                        <persName>Juvenal</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="489">The crew were as much distressed as the officers, from another cause.
                     Their biscuit, which had been sorted at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>,
                     baked over again, and then packed up, was now in the same decayed state as
                     before. This was owing partly to the revisal, which had been so rigorous, that
                     many a bad biscuit was preserved among those that were eatable, and partly to
                     the neglect of the casks, which had not been sufficiently fumigated and dried.
                     Of this rotten bread the people only received two thirds of their usual
                     allowance, from œconomical principles; but, as that portion is hardly
                     sufficient, supposing it to be all eatable, it was far from being so when
                     nearly one half of it was rotten. However, they continued in that distressful
                     situation till this day, when the first mate came to the captain and complained
                     bitterly that he and the people had not wherewith to satisfy the cravings of
                     the stomach, producing, at the same time, the rotten and stinking remains of
                     his biscuit. Upon this the crew were put to full allowance. The captain seemed
                     to recover again as we advanced to the southward, but all those who were
                     afflicted with rheumatisms continued as much indisposed as ever.</p>

                  <p n="490">
                     <date>[Thursday 20.]</date>The first ice islands which we met with on this run
                     were in <geo select="lat">62° 30' s</geo>outh, on the 20th, but they did not
                     accumulate in number in proportion to our progress, so that we <date>[Wednesd.
                        26.]</date>crossed the antarctic circle again on the 26th, without seeing
                     more than a few solitary pieces. On that day we were amused with the appearance
                     of land; for after standing on towards it for some hours, it vanished in
                     clouds. <date>[Thursday 27.]</date>The next day, at noon, we were in <geo select="lat">67° 52' s</geo>outh; consequently to the southward of any of
                     our former tracks, and met with no ice to stop us. The blue petrels, the little
                     storm petrels, and the pintadas still accompanied us, but albatrosses had left
                     us some time ago. We were now once more in the regions of perpetual day<ref target="#edn153">
                        <note xml:id="edn153" anchored="true"> In the frozen zone, where the sun
                           remains six months above and six months below the horizon, dividing the
                           year into one long day and night. </note>
                     </ref>, and had sunshine at the hour of midnight.</p>

                  <p n="491">
                     <date>[Friday 28.]</date>On the 28th, in the afternoon, we passed a large bed
                     of broken ice, hoisted out the boats, and took up a great quantity, which
                     afforded a seasonable supply of fresh water. At midnight the thermometer was
                     not lower than 34°, and the next morning we enjoyed the mildest sunshine we had
                     ever experienced in the frigid zone. My father therefore ventured upon deck for
                     the first time after a month's confinement.</p>

                  <p n="492">We now entertained hopes of penetrating to the south as far as other
                     navigators have done towards the <placeName>north pole</placeName>; but on the
                     30th, about <time>seven o'clock in the morning</time>, we discovered a solid
                     ice-field of immense extent before us, which bore from E. to W. A bed of
                     fragments floated all round this field, which seemed to be raised several feet
                     high above the level of the water. A vast number of icy masses, some of a very
                     great height, were irregularly piled up upon it, as far as the eye could reach.
                     Our latitude was at this time <geo select="lat">71° 10' s</geo>outh,
                     consequently less than 19 deg. from the pole; but as it was impossible to
                     proceed farther, we put the ship about, well satisfied with our perilous
                     expedition, and almost persuaded that no navigator will care to come after, and
                     much less attempt to pass beyond us. Our longitude at this time was nearly <geo select="lon">106° W.</geo> The thermometer here was at 32°, and a great many
                     pinguins were heard croaking round us, but could not be seen on account of the
                     foggy weather which immediately succeeded.</p>

                  <p n="493">As often as we had hitherto penetrated to the southward, we had met
                     with no land, but been stopped sooner or later by a solid ice-field, which
                     extended before us as far as we could see. At the same time we had always found
                     the winds moderate and frequently easterly in these high latitudes, in the same
                     manner as they are said to be in the northern frozen zone. From these
                     circumstances my father had been led to suppose, that all the south pole, to
                     the distance of 20 degrees, more or less, is covered with solid ice, of which
                     only the extremities are annually broken by storms, consumed by the action of
                     the sun, and regenerated in winter.</p>

                  <p n="494">
                     <q>
                        <l>_______stat glacies iners</l>
                        <l>Menses per omnes.</l> _______<placeName>Horat</placeName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="495">This opinion is the less exceptionable, since there seems to be no
                     absolute necessity for the existence of land towards the formation of ice<ref target="#edn154">
                        <note xml:id="edn154" anchored="true"> See vol. I. page 95. </note>
                     </ref>, and because we have little reason to suppose that there actually is any
                     land of considerable extent in the frigid zone.</p>

                  <p n="496">
                     <date>[1774. February.][Saturday 5.]</date>We ran to the northward with
                     moderate winds till the 5th of February, when we got a fine fresh breeze after
                     a short calm. The day after it shifted to S. E. and freshened so as to blow
                     very hard at night, and split several sails. As it was favourable for the
                     purpose of advancing to the northward, the only circumstance that afforded us
                     comfort, we were far from being concerned at its violence, and in
                        <date>[Tuesday 8.]</date>the next twenty-four hours made upwards of three
                     degrees of latitude. The same gale assisted us till the 12th, when we observed
                     the latitude to be <geo select="lat">50° 15' s</geo>outh, our thermometer being
                     once more returned to the milder temperature of 48 degrees. We were now told
                     that we should spend the winter season, which was coming on apace, among the
                     tropical islands of the <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>, in the same
                     manner as we had passed that immediately preceding. The prospect of making new
                     discoveries, and of enjoying the excellent refreshments which those islands
                     afford, entirely revived our hopes, and made us look on our continuance on the
                     western side of <placeName>Cape Horne</placeName> with some degree of
                     satisfaction.</p>

                  <p n="497">A great number of our people were however afflicted with very severe
                     rheumatic pains, which deprived them of the use of their limbs; but their
                     spirits were so low, that they had no fever. Though the use of that excellent
                     prophylactic the sour krout, prevented the appearance of the scurvy during all
                     the cold weather, yet being made of cabbage, it is not so nutritive that we
                     could live upon it without the assistance of biscuit and salt-beef. But the
                     former of these being rotten, and the other almost consumed by the salt, it is
                     obvious that no wholesome juices could be secreted from thence, which might
                     have kept the body strong and vigorous. Under these difficulties all our
                     patients recovered very slowly, having nothing to restore their strength; and
                     my father, who had been in exquisite torments during the greatest part of our
                     southern cruize, was afflicted with tooth-aches, swelled cheeks, sore-throat,
                     and universal pain till the middle of February, when he ventured on deck
                     perfectly emaciated. The warm weather which was beneficial to him, proved fatal
                     to <placeName>captain Cook's</placeName> constitution. The disappearance of his
                     bilious complaint during our last push to the south, had not been so sincere,
                     as to make him recover his appetite. The return to the north therefore brought
                     on a dangerous obstruction, which the captain very unfortunately slighted, and
                     concealed from every person in the ship, at the same time endeavouring to get
                     the better of it by taking hardly any sustenance. This proceeding, instead of
                     removing, encreased the evil, his stomach being already weak enough before. He
                     was afflicted with violent pains, which in the space of a few days confined him
                     to his bed, and forced him to have recourse to medicines. He took a purge, but
                     instead of producing the desired effect, it caused a violent vomiting, which
                     was assisted immediately by proper emetics. All attempts however to procure a
                     passage through his bowels were ineffectual; his food and medicines were thrown
                     up, and in a few days a most dreadful hiccough appeared, which lasted for
                     upwards of twenty-four hours, with such astonishing violence that his life was
                     entirely despaired of. Opiates and glysters had no effect, till repeated hot
                     baths, and plasters of theriaca applied on his stomach, had relaxed his body
                     and intestines. This however, was not effected till he had lain above a week in
                     the most imminent danger. Our servant fell ill about the same time with the
                     captain, of the same disorder, and narrowly escaped, but continued weak and
                     unserviceable the greatest part of our cruize between the tropics.</p>

                  <p n="498">During this time we advanced to the northward very <date>[Tuesday
                        22.]</date>fast, so that on the 22d we reached <geo select="lat" n="1">36°
                        10 S.</geo> latitude, where the albatrosses left us. Our longitude being
                     about <geo select="lon" n="1">94 1/2 degrees w</geo>est from
                        <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, we steered to the south-westward, in quest
                     of a supposed discovery of <persName>Juan Fernandez</persName>, which,
                     according to <persName>Juan Luis Arias</persName>, a Spanish author, is said to
                     lie in <geo select="lat" n="2">40° s</geo>outh latitude, and by <persName>Mr.
                        Dalrymple's</persName> chart in <geo select="lon" n="2">90° w</geo>est from
                           <placeName>London<ref target="#edn155">
                           <note xml:id="edn155" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                                 Dalryple's</persName> Historical Collection, vol. I. p. 53, and the
                              Chart. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. We stood <date>[Friday 25.]</date>on to the westward till the
                     25th at noon, where being in <geo select="lat" n="3">37° 50' S.</geo> and about
                        <geo select="lon" n="3">101° W.</geo> and seeing no signs of land, we
                     altered our course something to the northward. The dangerous situation of
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, was perhaps the reason, why our track was
                     not continued farther to the south, so as to put this matter entirely out of
                     doubt for the future. It was indeed of the utmost importance at present, to
                     hasten to a place of refreshment, that being the only chance to preserve his
                     life.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 7: Forster wrote out degree.. -->
                  <p n="499">On the 26th, <persName>captain Cook</persName> felt some relief from
                     the medicines which had been administered to him, and during the three
                     following days, recovered so far as to be able to sit up sometimes, and take a
                     little soup. Next to Providence it was chiefly owing to the skill of our
                     surgeon, <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, that he recovered to prosecute the
                     remaining part of our voyage, with the same spirit with which it had hitherto
                     been carried on. The care and assiduity with which this worthy man, watched him
                     during his whole illness, cannot be sufficiently extolled, as all our hopes of
                     future discoveries, as well as union in the ship, depended solely on the
                     preservation of the captain. The surgeon's extreme attention however, had
                     nearly cost him his own life. Having taken, no rest for many nights together,
                     and seldom venturing to sleep an hour by day, he was so much exhausted, that we
                     trembled for his life, upon which that of almost every man in the ship in great
                     measure depended. He was taken ill with a bilious disorder, which was dangerous
                     on account of the extreme weakness of his stomach, and it is more than
                     probable, that if we had not speedily fallen in with land, from whence we
                     collected some slight refreshments, he must have fallen a sacrifice to that
                     rigorous perseverance and extreme punctuality with which he discharged the
                     several duties of his profession.</p>

                  <p n="500">We had easterly winds ever since the 22d of February, which was
                     probably owing to the situation of the sun, still continuing in the southern
                     hemisphere. The weather was warm and comfortable again, the thermometer being
                     at 70 degrees; and some grey terns were seen from time to time, which according
                     to our friend <persName>Mahine's</persName> account, never went to a great
                     distance from land. <date>[1774. March.][Tuesday 1.]</date>On the first of
                     March, some bonitos appeared swiftly swimming past the ship, and the next day,
                     being in <geo select="lat">30 1/2 degrees</geo> of latitude, we saw tropic
                     birds again.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 4: Wrote out degrees. -->
                  <p n="501">The scurvy now appeared with very strong symptoms in the ship, and I
                     was particularly afflicted with it. Excruciating pains, livid blotches, rotten
                     gums, and swelled legs, brought me extremely low in a few days, almost before I
                     was aware of the disorder; and my stomach being very weak, through abstinence
                     from an unwholesome and loathed diet, I could not take the wort in sufficient
                     quantity to remove my complaint. The same case existed with regard to a number
                     of other people, who crawled about the decks with the greatest difficulty.</p>

                  <p n="502">We had almost calm weather from the 3d to the 6th, the sky was clear,
                     and the warmth and serenity of the weather remarkably pleasing; but we were
                     impatient to proceed to a place of refreshment, and this delay ill suited with
                     our wishes.</p>

                  <p n="503">On the 5th, at night, we saw some towering clouds and a haze on the
                     horizon to the southward, from whence we hoped for a fair wind. Already, during
                     night, we had some smart showers, and at <time>eight o'clock the next
                        morning</time> we saw the surface of the sea curled to the south-eastward,
                     upon which we trimmed our sails, and advanced again with a fair wind.
                        <date>[Monday 7.]</date>The next morning four large albecores were caught,
                     the least of which weighed twenty-three pounds. They afforded us a most
                     delicious repast, it being now an hundred days since we had tasted any fresh
                     fish. Shearwaters, terns, noddies, gannets, and men of war birds appeared
                     numerous about us, hunting the shoals of flying-fish which our ship, the
                     bonitos, albecores, and dolphins had frightened out of the water.</p>

                  <p n="504">
                     <date>[Tuesday 8.]</date>We reached the <geo select="lat">27th degree of
                        S.</geo> latitude on the 8th at noon, and then shaped our course due west in
                     search of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, discovered by <persName>Jacob
                        Roggewein</persName> in 1722, and since visited by the Spaniards in 1770<ref target="#edn156">
                        <note xml:id="edn156" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple'</persName>s Historical Collection of Voyages, vol. II. pag.
                           85; also his letter to Dr. Hawkesworth, 1773. </note>
                     </ref>, who gave it the name of <placeName>St. Charles's Island</placeName>.
                        <date>[Thursday 10.]</date>On the 10th, in the morning, the birds of the
                     grey tern-kind were innumerable about us, whilst we advanced at the rate of
                     seven miles an hour. We lay to during night, being apprehensive of falling in
                     with the land, which we actually discovered at <time>five o'clock the next
                        morning</time>. The joy which this fortunate event spread on every
                     countenance is scarcely to be described. We had been an hundred and three days
                     out of sight of land; and the rigorous weather to the south, the fatigues of
                     continual attendance during storms, or amidst dangerous masses of ice, the
                     sudden changes of climate, and the long continuance of a noxious diet, all
                     together had emaciated and worn out our crew. The expectation of a speedy end
                     to their sufferings, and the hope of finding the land stocked with abundance of
                     fowls and planted with fruits, according to the accounts of the Dutch
                     navigator, now filled them with uncommon alacrity and cheerfulness.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 7:Written as 27th. -->

                  <p n="505">
                     <q>
                        <l>E l'uno a'l altro il mostra, e in tanto oblia</l>
                        <l>La noia, e'l mal de la passata via.</l>
                        <persName>Tasso</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="506">We advanced but slowly towards the land by day, to the great
                     disappointment of all on board, who became more eager in proportion as new
                     difficulties arose to prolong their distresses. The land appeared of a moderate
                     height, and divided into several hills, which gently sloped from their summits;
                     its extent did not seem to be considerable, and we were at too great a distance
                     to be able to form any conjecture as to its productions. <date>[Saturday
                        12.]</date>The next morning we were becalmed within five leagues of the
                     island, which had then a black and somewhat disagreeable appearance. We amused
                     ourselves with catching sharks, several of which swam about the ship, and
                     eagerly swallowed the hook, which was baited with salt pork or beef. In the
                     afternoon a breeze sprung up, with which we stood towards the shore, in great
                     hopes of reaching an anchoring-place before night. The land did not look very
                     promising as we advanced, there being little verdure, and scarcely any bushes
                     upon it; but to us who had lingered so long under all the distresses of a
                     tedious cruize at sea, the most barren rock would have been a welcome sight. In
                     our way we perceived a great number of black pillars standing upright, near two
                     hummocks, and in different groups. They seemed to be the same which
                        <persName>Roggewein's</persName> people took for idols<ref target="#edn157">
                        <note xml:id="edn157" anchored="true"> see <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> Historical Collection of Voyages, &amp;c. vol.
                           II. p. 91 </note>
                     </ref>; but we guessed already, at that time, that they were such monuments, in
                     memory of the dead, as the Taheitians and other people in the South Seas erect
                     near burying-places, and call E-Tee.</p>

                  <p n="507">The wind, which was contrary and very faint, the approach of night, and
                     the want of an anchoring-place on the east side of the island, disappointed us
                     once more, and forced us to pass another night under sail, during which we saw
                     several fires in the neighbourhood of the pillars above-mentioned. The Dutch,
                     who likewise observed them, called them sacrifices to the idols; but it seems
                     to be more probable that they were only lighted to dress the food of the
                     natives.</p>

                  <p n="508">We passed the night in making several trips, in order to keep to
                     windward of the island and as near it as possible, resolving to pursue our
                     search of anchorage the next day. In the mean time we reflected on the
                     excellent means of ascertaining the longitude, with which our ship had been
                     furnished, and which had carried us exactly to this island, though several
                     former navigators, such as <persName>Byron</persName>,
                        <persName>Carteret</persName>, and <persName>Bougainville</persName> had
                     missed it, after taking their departure from islands at so short a distance
                     from it as those of <persName>Juan Fernandez</persName>
                     <ref target="#edn158">
                        <note xml:id="edn158" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Juan Fernandez</persName>, properly so called or la de Tierra,
                           and la Mas a fuera. </note>
                     </ref>. <persName>Captain Carteret</persName> it seems was only misled by an
                     erroneous latitude in the geographical tables which he consulted; but this
                     could not be the case with the rest. We had the greatest reason to admire the
                     ingenious construction of the two watches which we had on board, one executed
                     by <persName>Mr. Kendal</persName>, exactly after the model of that made by
                        <persName>Mr. Harrison</persName>, and the other by <persName>Mr.
                        Arnold</persName> on his own plan, both which went with great regularity.
                     The last was unfortunately stopped immediately after our departure from
                        <persName>New Zeeland</persName> in June 1773, but the other went till our
                     return to <persName>England</persName>, and gave general satisfaction. It
                     appears, however, that in a long run the observations of distances of the moon
                     from the sun or stars, are more to be depended upon, if they be made with good
                     instruments, than the watches or time-keepers, which frequently change their
                     rates of going. The method of deducing the longitude from the distances of the
                     sun and moon, or moon and stars, one of the most valuable acquisitions to the
                     art of navigation, must immortalize its first inventors. <persName>Tobias
                        Mayer</persName> a German, and professor at <placeName>Gottingen</placeName>
                     was the first who undertook the laborious task of calculating tables for this
                     purpose, for which his heirs received a parliamentary reward. Since his death
                     the method was so much facilitated by additional calculations, that the
                     longitude will perhaps never be determined with greater precision at sea by any
                     other means.</p>

                  <p n="509">The latitude of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> corresponds within
                     a minute or two with that which is marked in admiral
                        <persName>Roggewein's</persName> own MS. journal<ref target="#edn159">
                        <note xml:id="edn159" anchored="true"> See the Lives of the Governors of
                              <placeName>Batavia</placeName>. __It is there expressed <geo select="lat">27° 04' S.</geo> latitude, and <geo select="lon">265° 42'
                              E.</geo> from Tenerif, or <geo select="lon">110° 45' W.</geo> from
                              <placeName>London</placeName>. </note>
                     </ref>, and his longitude is only one degree erroneous, our observations having
                     ascertained it in <geo select="lon">109° 46' w</geo>est from
                        <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>. The Spanish accounts of the latitude are
                     likewise exact, but they err in longitude about thirty leagues.</p>

                  <p n="510"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="4" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. IV.<lb/>
                     An Account of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, and our Stay there.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="511">
                     <date>[1774. March.][Sunday 13.]</date>ON the 13th, early in the morning, we
                     ran close to the south point of the island, where the shore rose
                     perpendicularly, and consisted of broken rocks, whose cavernous appearance, and
                     black or ferruginous colour, seemed to have been produced by subterraneous
                     fire. Two detached rocks lay about a quarter of a miles off this point; one of
                     them was singular on account of its shape, resembling a huge column or obelisk,
                     and both were the habitations of numerous sea-fowls, which stunned our ears
                     with their discordant screams. Soon after we opened another point about ten
                     miles distant from this, and as we advanced we perceived the ground gently
                     sloping to the sea. On the slope we discovered several plantations by the help
                     of our glasses; but the surface of the isle in general appeared to be extremely
                     dreary and parched, and these plantations were so thinly scattered upon it,
                     that they did not flatter our hopes of meeting with considerable refreshments.
                     However, our eyes, long unused to the enchanting prospect of verdure, were
                     constantly directed towards the shore, where we distinguished a number of
                     people nearly naked, hastily running down from the hills towards the sea-side.
                     We could not perceive that they had any arms, which we immediately interpreted
                     into a sign of a peaceable disposition. In a few minutes we saw them launch a
                     canoe, in which two men came off towards us. They were along side in a short
                     time, having paddled very briskly, and immediately called out for a rope,
                     naming it by the same word as the Taheitians. We had no sooner thrown them the
                     rope, than they tied a great cluster of ripe bananas to it, making signs for us
                     to haul it up. The sudden emotions of joy in every countenance, at the sight of
                     this fruit, are scarcely to be described; they can only be felt in their full
                     extent by people in the same wretched situation with ourselves at that time. At
                     least fifty persons endeavoured to begin a conversation with the people in the
                     canoe, who being addressed by so many at once, could not answer one of them.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> sent for some ribbands, to which he tied
                     some medals and beads, and lowered them down in return for their present. They
                     seemed to admire them much, but hastened ashore with them immediately. In
                     dropping astern, they fastened a small piece of cloth to a fishing-line which
                     we towed after us; it was immediately hauled up, and appeared to be made of the
                     same bark as the Taheitian cloth, and coloured yellow. From a few words which
                     they pronounced, we concluded their language to be a dialect of the Taheitian,
                     which we had now found in both extremities of the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>. Their whole appearance confirmed us in this opinion, and
                     proved them issued from the same stock. They were of a middle stature, but
                     rather thin; their features resembled those of the Taheitians, but were less
                     agreeable: one of them had a beard, which was cut to the length of about half
                     an inch; the other was a youth of about seventeen. They had punctures of the
                     same nature with those used by the natives of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>
                     and of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>; but their whole body, which was
                     perfectly naked, was marked with them. The greatest singularity which we
                     observed about them was the size of their ears, of which the lap or extremity
                     was stretched out so as almost to rest on the shoulder, and pierced by a very
                     large hole, through which four or five fingers might be thrust with ease. This
                     circumstance entirely agreed with the description which the serjeant-major of
                        <persName>Roggewein's</persName> ship gives of these people<ref target="#edn160">
                        <note xml:id="edn160" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> Historical Collection, vol. II. p. 90, 94, or
                              <hi rend="italics">Histoire de l'Expedition de Trois</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">Vaisseaux</hi>, tome I. p. 133, a la Haye 1739.
                        </note>
                     </ref>. Their canoe was another curiosity, being patched up of many pieces,
                     each of which was not more than four or five inches wide, and two or three feet
                     long. Its length might be about ten or twelve feet, its head and stern were
                     raised considerably, but its middle was very low. It had an outrigger or
                     balancer made of three slender poles, and each of the men had a paddle, of
                     which the blade was likewise composed of several pieces. This description also
                     exactly corresponds with the Dutch account of <persName>Roggewein's</persName>
                     voyage, printed at Dort in 1728<ref target="#edn161">
                        <note xml:id="edn161" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> Collection, vol. II. pag. 111. </note>
                     </ref>; and sufficiently proved that the island is very destitute of wood,
                     though the contrary is ascertained in the serjeant-major's relation of that
                        voyage<ref target="#edn162">
                        <note xml:id="edn162" anchored="true"> Ibid. vol. II. p. 95; or Histoire,
                           &amp;c. vol. I. p. 138. </note>
                     </ref>. </p>

                  <p n="512">Though we struck soundings opposite the place from whence this canoe
                     put off, yet in hopes of finding a better place of anchorage, we ran along the
                     coast of the island, till we came in sight of its northern extremity, which we
                     had already seen the day before from the other side. But being disappointed in
                     our expectation, we put about with a view to return to the place which we had
                     left. A great number of black pillars stood along the shore, many of which were
                     elevated on platforms consisting of several ranges of stone. We could now
                     distinguish something resembling a human head and shoulders towards their upper
                     end; but the lower part appeared to be a rude stone, without being carved into
                     a resemblance of the human shape. Sometimes we perceived two, sometimes four,
                     and even five together in a row; but some were likewise placed by themselves.
                     We saw but few plantations towards the north end, the land being much more
                     bluff or steep there, than about the middle of the island, and we could easily
                     perceive that there was not a tree upon the whole island, which exceeded the
                     height of ten feet.</p>

                  <p n="513">In the afternoon we hoisted out a boat, and the master went towards the
                     shore to take soundings in the road, from whence the canoe had come off to us.
                     As soon as the natives perceived our boat on the water, they assembled along
                     shore, near the place to which our people seemed to direct their course. Among
                     a croud of naked men, we saw some who seemed to be dressed in a bright cloth of
                     a yellow, or rather orange colour, from whence we suspected that they were
                     their principal people. We now likewise began to discern their houses, which
                     seemed to be extremely low and long, highest in the middle, and sloping down
                     towards both extremities. They much resembled a canoe turned with the keel or
                     bottom upwards. In the middle there seemed to be a small entrance or door,
                     which was so low, that a man of a common size must stoop to get in. Towards
                     evening we let go our anchor in about forty fathom, gravelly bottom off the S.
                     W. part of the island. The master returned presently after, and brought one of
                     the natives in the boat with him. This bold fellow had jumped into the boat
                     without any ceremony or invitation, while it was close to the shore, and
                     expressly desired to be brought on board. He was of the middle size, about five
                     feet eight inches high, and remarkably hairy on the breast and all over the
                     body. His colour was a chestnut brown, his beard strong, but clipped short, and
                     of a black colour, as was also the hair of his head, which was likewise cut
                     short. His ears were very long, almost hanging on his shoulders, and his legs
                     punctured in compartments after a taste which we had observed no where else. He
                     had only a belt round his middle, from whence a kind of net-work descended
                     before, too thin to conceal any thing from the sight. A string was tied about
                     his neck, and a flat bone, something shaped like a tongue, and about five
                     inches long, was fastened to it, and hung down on the breast. This, he told us,
                     was a porpoise's bone (eevee toharra), expressing it exactly by the same words
                     which a Taheitian would have made use of. To explain himself better, he also
                     called it eevee-eeka, which we well understood to signify the bone of a
                        fish<ref target="#edn163">
                        <note xml:id="edn163" anchored="true"> Eeya at
                              <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and eeka at <placeName>New
                              Zeeland</placeName> and the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName> mean
                           a fish. </note>
                     </ref>. He was no sooner seated in the boat, than he complained of being cold
                     by shivering, and making various gestures of a very intelligible nature.
                        <persName>Mr. Gilbert</persName>, the master, therefore gave him a jacket,
                     and put a hat on his head, and in that dress he appeared upon deck. The captain
                     and passengers presented him with nails, medals, and strings of beads, the last
                     of which, he desired to have tied round his head. At the beginning he shewed
                     some marks of fear or diffidence, asking whether we should kill him as an enemy
                        (<hi rend="italics">matte-toa?</hi>) but upon being assured of good
                     treatment and friendship on our part, he seemed perfectly secure and
                     unconcerned, and talked of nothing but dancing (<hi rend="italics">heeva</hi>). It was with some difficulty that we understood him at first;
                     but having enquired for the names by which he distinguished the parts of the
                     body, we soon found them to be nearly the same with those which are used in the
                     Society Isles. If we mentioned a word which he did not comprehend, he repeated
                     it several times with a look which strongly expressed his ignorance of it. As
                     night approached, he said he wanted to go to sleep, and complained of cold. My
                     father gave him a large <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth of the thickest
                     sort, in which he wrapped himself, saying he found it comfortably warm. He was
                     afterwards conducted into the master's cabin, where he law down on a table, and
                     slept very quietly the whole night. <persName>Mahine</persName>ur new visitor
                     several times, but was interrupted by the questions which many other persons in
                     the ship put to him.</p>

                  <p n="514">
                     <date>[Monday 14.]</date>We dragged our anchor during night, and drove off the
                     bank, so that we were obliged to set sail again, in order to recover our
                     situation. Immediately after breakfast, <persName>captain Cook</persName> went
                     ashore with the native, whose name was <persName>Maroowahai</persName>,
                     together with <persName>Mahine</persName>, my father, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, and myself, though my feet and legs were still swelled
                     excessively, and I was hardly able to walk. We found a snug cove for boats,
                     among a number of rocks which sheltered the landing-place from the mountainous
                     swell that tumbled in upon the shore. About a hundred, or a hundred and fifty
                     natives were assembled on the spot where we landed, almost all of them naked,
                     some having only a belt round the middle, from whence a small bit of cloth, six
                     or eight inches long, or a little net, hung down before. A very few of them had
                     a cloak which reached to the knees, made of cloth, resembling that of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> in the texture, and stitched or quilted with
                     thread to make it the more lasting. Most of these cloaks were painted yellow
                     with the turmeric-root. The people did not make the least unfriendly motion at
                     our landing, but expressed a prodigious dread of our fire-arms, of which they
                     seemed to know the deadly effects. We saw but few arms among them; some however
                     had lances or spears, made of thin ill-shapen sticks, and pointed with a sharp
                     triangular piece of a black glassy lava (<hi rend="italics">pumex
                        vitreus</hi>, Linn.) commonly called <placeName>Iceland</placeName> agate.
                     One of them had a fighting club, made of a thick piece of wood about three feet
                     long, carved at one extremity; and a few others had short wooden clubs, exactly
                     resembling some of the <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> patoo-patoos, which
                     are made of bone. We observed some who had European hats and caps, chequered
                     cotton handkerchiefs, and ragged jackets of blue woollen-cloth, which were so
                     many indubitable testimonies of the visit which the Spaniards had made to this
                     island in 1770. The general appearance of the natives seemed to argue a great
                     sterility of the country. They were inferior in stature to the natives of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>,
                     and to those of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, there being not a single
                     person amongst them, who might be reckoned tall. Their body was likewise lean,
                     and their face thinner than that of any people we had hitherto seen in the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. Their want of cloathing, and a great
                     eagerness to obtain out goods without offering any thing in return, seemed
                     altogether to be sufficient marks of poverty. They were all prodigiously
                     punctured on every part of the body, the face in particular; and their women,
                     who were very small and slender limbed, had likewise punctures on the face,
                     which resembled the patches sometimes worn by our ladies. The number of women
                     in the croud did not exceed ten or twelve; they were seldom satisfied with
                     their natural clear brown colour, but painted the whole face with a reddish
                     brown ruddle, over which they laid on the bright orange of the turmeric-root;
                     or ornamented themselves with elegant streaks of white shell-lime. The art of
                     painting is therefore not confined to those ladies who have the happiness to
                     imitate French fashions. The women were all dressed in pieces of cloth, which
                     appeared scanty when compared to the Taheitian dresses. Both sexes had thin,
                     but not savage features, though the little shelter which their barren country
                     offers against the sun-beams, had contracted their brows sometimes, and drawn
                     the muscles of the face up towards the eye. Their noses were not very broad,
                     but rather flat between the eyes; their lips strong, though not so thick as
                     those of negroes; and their hair black and curling, but always cut short, so as
                     not to exceed three inches. Their eyes were dark brown, and rather small, the
                     white being less clear than in other nations of the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>. Their ears were remarkable for the great length of the
                     lap, which frequently hung on the shoulder, and was pierced with so large a
                     hole, that the extremity could be tucked up through it. In order to bring it to
                     this size, they wore a leaf of a sugar cane, which is very elastic, rolled up
                     in it like a scroll; by which means it was always on the stretch. The violent
                     action of the sun upon their heads has forced them to contrive various
                     coverings for that part. Many of the men wore a ring about two inches thick,
                     strongly and curiously plaited of grass, and fitting close round the head. This
                     was covered with great quantities of the long black feathers which decorate the
                     neck of the man of war bird. Others had huge bushy caps of brown gulls
                     feathers, which were almost as large as the full bottomed wigs of European
                     lawyers; and still others wore a simple hoop of wood, round which a number of
                     the long white feathers of a gannet hung nodding, and waved in the wind. The
                     women wore a great wide cap, made of very neat mat-work; it was pointed
                     forwards, formed a ridge along the top, and two large lobes behind on each
                     side, which we found extremely cooling for the head. <placeName>Mr.
                        Hodges</placeName> drew the figure of a woman with this cap on, and of a man
                     with one of the other head dresses; both are extremely characteristic of the
                     nation, and have been engraved for <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account
                     of this voyage. The only ornaments which we saw among them, were the flat
                     pieces of bone in the shape of a tongue, or like a laurel leaf, which both
                     sexes wore hanging on their breast, together with some necklaces and ear-jewels
                     made of shells.</p>

                  <p n="515">After staying among the natives for some time on the beach, we began to
                     walk into the country. The whole ground was covered with rocks and stones of
                     all sizes, which seemed to have been exposed to a great fire, where they had
                     acquired a black colour and porous appearance. Two of three shrivelled species
                     of grasses grew up among these stones, and in a slight degree softened the
                     desolate appearance of the country. About fifteen yards from the landing-place
                     we saw a perpendicular wall of square hewn stones, about a foot and a half or
                     two feet long, and one foot broad. Its greatest height was about seven or eight
                     feet, but it gradually sloped on both sides, and its length might be about
                     twenty yards. A remarkable circumstance was the junction of these stones, which
                     were laid after the most excellent rules of art, fitting in such a manner as to
                     make a durable piece of architecture. The stone itself of which they are cut is
                     not of great hardness being a blackish brown cavernous and brittle stony lava.
                     The ground rose from the water's side upwards; so that another wall, parallel
                     to the first, about twelve yards from it and facing the country, was not above
                     two or three feet high. The whole area between the two walls was filled up with
                     soil and covered with grass. About fifty yards farther to the south there was
                     another elevated area, of which the surface was paved with square stones
                     exactly similar to those which formed the walls. In the midst of this area,
                     there was a pillar consisting of a single stone, which represented a human
                     figure to the waist, about twenty feet high, and upwards of five feet wide. The
                     workmanship of this figure was rude, and spoke the arts in their infancy. The
                     eyes, nose, and mouth were scarcely marked on a lumpish ill-shaped head; and
                     the ears, which were excessively long, quite in the fashion of the country,
                     were better executed than any other part, though a European artist would have
                     been ashamed of them. The neck was clumsy and short, and the shoulders and arms
                     very slightly represented. On the top of the head a huge round cylinder of
                     stone was placed upright, being above five feet in diameter and in height. This
                     cap, which resembled the head-dress of some Egyptian divinity, consisted of a
                     different stone from the rest of the pillar, being of a more reddish colour;
                     and had a hole on each side, as if it had been made round by turning. The cap
                     together with the head, made one half of the whole pillar which appeared above
                     ground. We did not observe that the natives paid any worship to these pillars,
                     yet they seemed to hold them in some kind of veneration, as they sometimes
                     expressed a dislike when we walked over the paved area or pedestals, or
                     examined the stone of which it consisted.</p>

                  <p n="516">A few of the natives accompanied us farther on into the country, where
                     we had seen some bushes at a distance, which we hoped would afford us something
                     new. Our road was intolerably rugged, over heaps of volcanic stones, which
                     rolled away under our feet, and against which we continually hurt ourselves.
                     The natives, who were accustomed to this desolate ground, skipped nimbly from
                     stone to stone without the least difficulty. In our way we saw several black
                     rats running about, which it seems are common to every island in the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. Being arrived at the shrubbery which we
                     had in view, we found it was nothing but a small plantation of the paper
                     mulberry, of which here, as well as at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, they
                     make their cloth. Its stems were from two to four feet high, and planted in
                     rows, among very large rocks, where the rains had washed a little soil
                     together. In the neighbourhood of these we saw some bushes of the <hi rend="italics">hibiscus populneus</hi>, Linn. which is common also in the
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>, where it is one of the numerous plants
                     made use of to dye yellow; and likewise a <hi rend="italics">mimosa</hi>,
                     which is the only shrub that affords the natives sticks for their clubs and
                     pattoo-pattoos, and wood sufficient to patch up a canoe.</p>

                  <p n="517">We found the face of the country more barren and ruinous the farther we
                     advanced. The small number of inhabitants, who met us at the landing-place,
                     seemed to have been the bulk of the nation, since we met no other people on our
                     walk; and yet for these few we did not see above ten or twelve huts, though the
                     view commanded a great part of the island. One of the sightliest of these was
                     situated on a little hillock, about half a mile from the sea, which we
                     ascended. Its construction was such as evinced the poverty and wretched
                     condition of its owners. The foundation consisted of stones about a foot long,
                     laid level with the surface in two curve lines, converging at the extremities.
                     These lines were about six feet asunder in the middle, but not above one foot
                     at the ends. In every stone of this foundation we observed one or two holes, in
                     each of which a stake was inserted. The middlemost stakes were six feet high,
                     but the others gradually diminished to two feet. On the top the stakes all
                     converged, and were tied by strings to transverse sticks, by which they were
                     kept together. A kind of thatch, made of small sticks, and covered with a neat
                     mat-work of sugar-cane leaves, leaned on each row of stakes, forming a very
                     sharp ridge or angle at the top, and resting firmly on the ground at the
                     bottom. A hole was left on one side, about eighteen inches or two feet high,
                     over which the people had built a round projecting funnel to keep off the wet.
                     We crept on all fours into this opening, and found the inside of the hut
                     perfectly naked and empty, there being not so much as a wisp of straw to lie
                     down upon. We could not stand upright in any part except just in the middle,
                     and the whole place appeared dark and dismal. The natives told us they passed
                     the night in these huts, and we easily conceived their situation to be
                     uncomfortable, especially as we saw so very few of them, that they must be
                     crammed full, unless the generality of the people lie in the open air, and
                     leave these wretched dwellings to their chiefs, or make use of them only in bad
                     weather.</p>

                  <p n="518">Besides these huts, we observed some heaps of stones piled up into
                     little hillocks, which had one steep perpendicular side, where a hole went
                     under ground. The space within could be but very small, and yet it is probable
                     that these cavities likewise served to give shelter to the people during night.
                     They may, however, communicate with natural caverns, which are very common in
                     the lava currents of volcanic countries. Such caverns are very frequent in
                        <placeName>Iceland</placeName> famous for having been the dwelling-places of
                     the ancient inhabitants. <persName>Mr. Ferber</persName>, the first
                     mineralogical historian of <placeName>Vesuvius</placeName>, has noticed such a
                     subterraneous hole in one of the modern lavas of that mountain. We should have
                     been glad to have ascertained this circumstance, but the natives always denied
                     us admittance into these places.</p>

                  <p n="519">A plantation of sugar-canes and one of bananas adjoined to the house we
                     had visited, and both were in excellent order, considering the stony quality of
                     the ground. The bananas were all growing in holes one foot deep, which we
                     supposed to be contrived for collecting the rain, and preserving it for a
                     longer time about the plant. The sugar-canes were about nine or ten feet high,
                     even in this parched country, and contained a very sweet juice, which the
                     inhabitants presented to us very frequently, and particularly whenever we asked
                     for something to drink. We concluded from thence that they had no water on the
                     island; but coming back to the landing-place we met <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, whom the natives had conducted to a well very close to the
                     sea, which was cut deep into the rock, but full of impurities. When our people
                     had cleared it, they found the water in it rather brackish, but the natives
                     drank of it with much seeming satisfaction.</p>

                  <p n="520">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> had not been very fortunate in trading with
                     the people. They seemed indeed to be so destitute as to have no provisions to
                     spare. A few matted baskets full of sweet potatoes, some sugar-canes, bunches
                     of bananas, and two or three small fowls ready dressed, were the whole purchase
                     which he had made for a few iron tools, and some
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth. He had presented the people with
                     beads, but they always threw them away with contempt, as far as ever they
                     could. Whatever else they saw about us, they were desirous of possessing,
                     though they had nothing to give in return. Their number was now decreased
                     nearly to one half, many of them having probably gone home to their dinners;
                     however, the number of women was always remarkably small in proportion to the
                     men, there being not above twelve or fifteen at our first landing, and about
                     six or seven when we embarked again. They were neither reserved nor chaste, and
                     for the trifling consideration of a small piece of cloth, some of our sailors
                     obtained the gratification of their desires. Their features were mild enough,
                     and the large pointed cap gave them the air of professed wantons.</p>

                  <p n="521">We returned on board the ship before noon, and found it at anchor,
                     though we had left it under sail. The fresh fruits and roots which we brought
                     on board, were immediately distributed as far as they would go, and proved a
                     most reasonable refreshment to our sick. We tasted the fowls, which seemed to
                     have been dressed under-ground, by means of hot stones being wrapped up in
                     green leaves, in the manner practised amongst all the nations of the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, whom we had hitherto visited. The potatoes
                     were of a gold-yellow colour, and as sweet as carrots, therefore not equally
                     palatable to us all; however, they were extremely nourishing, and very
                     antiscorbutic. The juices of this, and all the other vegetables on this island,
                     seemed to have been concentrated by the dryness of the soil. Their bananas were
                     reckoned very delicious in their kind, by those who were fond of this fruit,
                     and their sugar-canes were sweeter than any we had tasted at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="522">In the afternoon we returned on shore again, and an officer went with
                     another boat to fill water at the well. We found but few natives near the
                     landing-place, and among them was one, who appeared to have some little
                     authority, and readily accompanied the captain wherever he went. He was not so
                     timorous as the rest of his countrymen, but walked boldly along with us, whilst
                     the others were alarmed at the least motion which appeared unusual to them.
                     This disposition, however, did not prevent them from picking our pockets, or
                     stealing any thing which suited them. We had not been half an hour on shore,
                     when one of them came behind <persName>Mahine</persName>, and very nimbly
                     snatching a black cap from his head, ran off with the greatest velocity over
                     the heaps of rugged stones, where it was impossible to follow him.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> was so surprised, that it was some time before
                     he could find words to complain to the captain; and when he did it, the thief
                     was already at a great distance. About the same time, as <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName> was fitting on a little eminence, and sketching a view of
                     the country, one of the natives ran off with his hat in the same manner.
                        <persName>Mr. Wales</persName> was standing by him with a musket in his
                     hand, but very justly reflected, that so slight a crime did not deserve the
                     punishment of a leaden bullet.</p>

                  <p n="523">In our walk along the sea-shore, we discovered a few stalks of the same
                     species of celery which is plentiful on the beaches of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, and we also found two other little plants common to
                     that country. Whether these plants originally existed on the island, or sprung
                     up from seeds, which the current of the sea, or birds by their plumage might
                     transport from the opposite side of the ocean, I cannot venture to determine.
                     We likewise met with a plantation of yams (<hi rend="italics">dioscorea
                        alata</hi>, Linn.) which in so poor a <hi rend="italics">flora</hi> as
                     that of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> was a great addition. The great
                     correspondence in the features, customs, and languages of these people, to
                     those of other natives of the <placeName>South Sea islands</placeName>, gave us
                     some room to hope for such domestic animals among them, as we had observed at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> or <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. But
                     notwithstanding the most diligent search, we never met with any other than
                     common fowls, which were of a very small breed, and had a dull plumage. It is
                     true we observed also two or three noddies, which were so tame as to settle on
                     the shoulders of the natives, but from these individuals we could not conclude,
                     that they kept a regular breed of them.</p>

                  <p n="524">About sun-set we left the watering-place, and walked to the cove where
                     our boat lay at a grapnel. In our way we passed over the area on which the
                     single pillar before-mentioned was placed. A few natives who still accompanied
                     us, made signs that we should descend, and walk in the grass at the foot of the
                     pedestal; but seeing that we did not care to understand their gestures, they
                     made no other attempt to oppose our progress. We put some questions to the most
                     intelligent persons among them, concerning the nature of these stones, and from
                     what we could understand, we concluded that they were monuments erected to the
                     memory of some of their areekees, or kings. This led us to believe that the
                     pedestal was perhaps to be considered as a burying-place, and on looking
                     carefully round it, we found a number of human bones, which confirmed our
                     conjecture. The length of these bones was exactly such as might be expected in
                     persons of a middle stature, and a thigh-bone which we measured, exactly
                     corresponded with that of a person about five feet nine inches high. To the
                     westward of the cove, there was a range of three pillars, standing on a very
                     large elevated area or pedestal. This range the natives distinguished by the
                     name of <hi rend="italics">hanga-roa</hi>, and the single pillar they called
                        <hi rend="italics">obeena</hi>. About ten or twelve people were seated at
                     a little distance from the last, round a small fire, over which they had
                     roasted a few potatoes. These served for their supper, and they offered us some
                     of them as we passed by. We were much surprised with this instance of
                     hospitality in so poor a country, especially when we compared it to the customs
                     of civilized nations, who have almost entirely laid aside all tender feelings
                     for the wants of their fellow-creatures. At the same time we were very glad to
                     be convinced, that the conjectures of the Dutch concerning the fires which they
                     saw on this island, were ill-founded, as we did not see the least reason to
                     suppose, that they were lighted for religious purposes. We now embarked with a
                     small quantity of potatoes, and with about six or seven common plants, which we
                     had gathered, and returned on board. Those only who were ill of the scurvy,
                     reaped some benefit from their visit to the shore. I who went out in the
                     morning with my legs excessively swelled, and so tender that I could hardly
                     stand upon them, returned on board much better; the swelling was something
                     reduced, and my pains at least were gone. I could not attribute this sudden
                     change to any thing else, than the exercise I had taken on shore, and perhaps
                     to those salutary antiscorbutic effluvia of the land, which it is said, are
                     alone sufficient to recover those, who have contracted the scurvy on a long
                     cruize at sea.</p>

                  <p n="525">
                     <date>[Tuesday 15.]</date>Early the next morning, <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> appointed a party of marines and sailors, under the command
                     of lieutenants <persName>Pickersgill</persName> and
                        <persName>Edgecumbe</persName>, to reconnoitre the interior parts of the
                     country, in order to be convinced if possible, whether any other part was
                     better cultivated, or more closely inhabited than that which we had hitherto
                     seen. <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>,
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, and my father associated with them, so
                     that the whole party consisted of twenty-seven men.</p>

                  <p n="526">After breakfast I accompanied <persName>captain Cook</persName> and
                     several officers ashore, where we found about two hundred inhabitants
                     assembled, amongst whom were fourteen or fifteen women, and very few children.
                     It was impossible for us to guess at the cause of this disproportion in the
                     number of the different sexes; but as all the women we saw were very liberal of
                     their favours, I conjectured at that time, that the married and the modest, who
                     might be supposed to form the greater part, did not care to come near us, or
                     were forced by the men to stay at their dwellings in the remote parts of the
                     island. Those few who appeared were the most lascivious of their sex, that
                     perhaps have ever been noticed in any country, and shame seemed to be entirely
                     unknown to them; our sailors likewise disclaimed all acquaintance with modesty,
                     for nothing but the shadow of the gigantic monument screened them from the
                     sun.</p>

                  <p n="527">
                     <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, <persName>lieutenant Clerke</persName>, and
                     myself left the seaside, where the concourse was greatest, and took a walk into
                     the country. The heat of the sun was very violent, the beams being reverberated
                     from the broken ground, and there was not a single tree to give us shelter. My
                     companions had taken their fowling-pieces in hopes of meeting with some birds;
                     but they were greatly disappointed, there being probably no other land-birds on
                     the island than the common fowl, which were tame and extremely scarce. We
                     followed one of the paths which the natives had made, till we came to a
                     cultivated spot, consisting of several fields planted with sweet potatoes,
                     yams, and eddoes, together with a species of night-shade, which is made use of
                     at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the neighbouring islands as a vulnerary
                     remedy, (<hi rend="italics">solanum nigrum?</hi>) and may, for ought I know,
                     be cultivated here for the same purpose. The grass, which commonly springs up
                     among the stones on the uncultivated soil, was here carefully plucked up, and
                     spread over the whole plantation as a manure, or perhaps to preserve it in some
                     measure from the parching beams of the sun. It should seem from these
                     circumstances that the natives are not altogether ignorant of rural œconomy,
                     and till the ground at a great expence of time and labour. At a little distance
                     from these fields we met with two huts, constructed exactly like that which I
                     have mentioned page 569, but much smaller. The entrance was stopped up with a
                     great quantity of small brushwood, and we at first imagined that we heard the
                     voices of women within, but after listening for some time we heard nothing
                     farther to confirm us in this belief. We rambled from thence to the top of a
                     hillock covered with shrubberies, which we found to consist of nothing but a
                     species of <hi rend="italics">mimosa</hi>, that scarcely attained the height
                     of eight feet, and afforded us very little shelter from the sun. Here we rested
                     a while, and then descended by a different route into another set of fields,
                     which were treated in the same manner as the rest. None of them had any sort of
                     enclosures, though the historians of <persName>Roggewein's</persName> voyage,
                     who seem to have consulted fancy more than truth, make mention of them. The
                     encreasing heat of the day had entirely exhausted us, when we had still a
                     considerable way to make down to the sea-side. Fortunately we passed by a
                     native who was at work, gathering potatoes in one of the fields. We complained
                     of great thirst to him, upon which, though he was an old man, he immediately
                     ran to a large plantation of sugar-canes, and brought us a great load of the
                     best and juiciest on his back. We made him some presents in return for them,
                     cut them into walking-sticks, and, as we went along, gradually peeled and
                     sucked them, finding their juice extremely refreshing.</p>

                  <p n="528">At our return to the landing-place we found <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> still occupied in trading with the inhabitants, who brought
                     him some fowls ready dressed, and some matted baskets full of sweet potatoes,
                     but sometimes deceived him by filling the basket with stones, and only laying a
                     few potatoes at the top. The most valuable article of trade on our part were
                     empty coco-nut shells, which we had received at the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>;
                     but they were not current, unless the hole in them was very small, or unless
                     they had a cover. The Taheitian and European cloths were valued in the next
                     degree according to the size of the pieces; and iron-ware bore an inferior
                     price. The greatest part of the natives who traded with us instantly ran off
                     with the cloth, nut-shell, or the nail which had been given in exchange for
                     their potatoes, as if they were apprehensive that we might repent of our
                     bargain, even though they dealt honestly with us. Some among them were bold
                     enough to run off with what they had received, as the price of their
                     provisions, before they had delivered up the goods for which we had bargained.
                     From such circumstances the deplorable condition of the natives became more and
                     more conspicuous. The scarcity of cloth among them was extremely great, most of
                     the people being forced to go naked; but this did not prevent their selling
                     what little cloth they had in exchange for that of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The desire of possessing this cloth
                     prompted them to expose to sale several articles which perhaps they would not
                     have parted with so easily under other circumstances. Among these were their
                     different caps or head-dresses, their necklaces, ornaments for the ear, and
                     several human figures, made of narrow pieces of wood about eighteen inches or
                     two feet long, and wrought in a much neater and more proportionate manner than
                     we could have expected, after seeing the rude sculpture of the statues. They
                     were made to represent persons of both sexes; the features were not very
                     pleasing, and the whole figure was much too long to be natural; however, there
                     was something characteristic in them, which shewed a taste for the arts. The
                     wood of which they were made was finely polished, close-grained, and of a
                     dark-brown, like that of the casuarina. But as we had not yet seen this tree
                     growing here, we eagerly expected the return of our party, hoping they would
                     make some discoveries to explain this circumstance. <persName>Mahine</persName>
                     was most pleased with these carved human figures, the workman of which much
                     excelled those of the <hi rend="italics">e Tees</hi> in his country, and he
                     purchased several of them, assuring us they would be greatly valued at
                     Taheitee. As he took great pains to collect these curiosities, he once met with
                     a figure of a woman's hand, carved of a yellowish wood, nearly of the natural
                     size. Upon examination, its fingers were all bent upwards, as they are in the
                     action of dancing at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and its nails were
                     represented very long, extending at least three fourths of an inch beyond the
                     fingers' end. The wood of which it was made was the rare perfume-wood of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, with the chips of which they communicate
                     fragrance to their oils. We had neither seen this wood growing, nor observed
                     the custom of wearing long nails at this island, and therefore were at a loss
                     to conceive how this piece of well-executed carving could be met with there; we
                     hoped, however, to unravel this circumstance also at the return of our party.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> afterwards presented this piece to my father,
                     who has in his turn made a present of it to the British Museum.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> was likewise very eager to collect as many
                     feathered caps as he could meet with, especially those which had the feathers
                     of a man of war bird, that bird being very scarce about
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and much valued on account of its glossy
                     black colour.</p>

                  <p n="529">Whilst <persName>captain Cook</persName> continued in the cove, another
                     trade for potatoes was carried on at the watering-place. Here the desire of
                     possessing our goods, made some of the natives guilty of a crime against their
                     own countryman. A field of sweet potatoes was situated close to the well, and a
                     considerable number of people of different ages and sizes, busied themselves in
                     digging them up, and bringing them for sale to our people. They had carried on
                     this occupation for some hours, when another native arrived, who was in a
                     vehement passion with them, and drove them all away, remaining alone to dig the
                     roots up himself. He was the owner of the field, whom the rest had robbed of
                     the fruits of his labour, finding an easy method to dispose of their stolen
                     goods. It is not to be doubted that these offences against the laws of civil
                     society, are sometimes committed even at the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>, because the inhabitants have often told us, that they
                     inflicted a capital punishment upon such offenders; but we never saw any
                     instances of it there. On this occasion at <placeName>Easter
                     Island</placeName>, we did not observe that they annexed any penalty to the
                     crime, though we saw it committed. Perhaps this is owing to the different
                     degree of civilization of those two cogeneric tribes.</p>

                  <p n="530">We went on board at noon, where we dined on some fowls and potatoes,
                     which we found delicious after the fatigues of the morning. We observed a few
                     natives on board, who had ventured to swim off, though the ship lay about three
                     quarters of a mile from the shore. They expressed the most unbounded admiration
                     at every thing they saw, and every one of them measured the whole length of the
                     vessel from head to stern, with his extended arms; such a great quantity of
                     timber of so stupendous a size, being altogether incomprehensible to people
                     whose canoes were patched of many small bits of wood. Among them was one woman,
                     who had arrived on board in the same manner, and carried on a particular
                     traffic of her own. She visited several of the inferior officers, and then
                     addressed herself to the sailors, emulating the famous exploits of
                        Messalina<ref target="#edn164">
                        <note xml:id="edn164" anchored="true"> See Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. x. c. 63.
                           Tacit. Annal. lib. xi. Juvenal. Sat. vi. 129. ____lassa viris, nec
                           satiata recessit. </note>
                     </ref>. A few English rags, and some pieces of Taheitee cloth, were the spoils
                     which she carried away with her, being fetched off by a man in the patched
                     canoe, which was perhaps the only one in the island. Another of her
                     country-women had visited our ship the day before, and been equally unbounded
                     in her revels. It remained a doubt with us, whether we should most admire their
                     success among a sickly crew, exhausted by the long continuance of a noxious
                     diet, or their own spirit and insatiate temper.</p>

                  <p n="531">In the afternoon we returned to the shore again, and I walked on the
                     hills to the southward, which rose with a very easy slope. Here I met with a
                     large plantation of bananas, beyond which I found some remains of a stone wall,
                     which was perhaps once the base of a statue. From thence I crossed some fields,
                     where I saw a family of the natives at work, taking potatoes out of the ground.
                     I walked up to their hut, which was one of the smallest I had yet seen, and as
                     they came about me, I sat down among them. Their whole number amounted to six
                     or seven persons, one of whom was a woman, and two were young boys. They
                     presented me with some sugar-canes, and in return, I made them a present of a
                     small piece of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, which they immediately
                     wrapped about the head. They did not express that great curiosity which we had
                     observed among the people of the Society Isles, but soon returned to their
                     former occupation, in which all were employed without exception. Some of them
                     had head-dresses made of feathers, which they readily offered to exchange for
                     pieces of cloth no bigger than a handkerchief. About the hut I perceived a few
                     fowls, the only ones which I had seen alive on the island. Their behaviour
                     towards me was wholly inoffensive, agreeably to the general character of the
                     nations in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. From the expressions of the
                     historians of <persName>Roggewein's</persName> voyage, it should seem, that the
                     Dutch very wantonly fired upon the natives, who gave no provocation, and killed
                     a considerable number of them, intimidating the rest to a great degree. It is
                     probable, that the terror with which they looked upon the destructive arms of
                     Europeans at that time, and during the late visit of the Spaniards, was revived
                     among them at our appearance, and had an influence on their general timid
                     behaviour towards us; but it is not to be doubted, at the same time, that there
                     is a mildness, fellow-feeling, and good-nature in their disposition, which
                     naturally prompts them to treat their visitors kindly, and even hospitably, as
                     far as their wretched country will permit.</p>

                  <p n="532">I returned the same way by which I came, and soon after went on board
                     the ship with <persName>captain Cook</persName>. About <time>nine
                        o'clock</time> a musket was fired on shore, as a signal for a boat, and the
                     pinnace being sent off, returned soon after with our party, who had been to
                     examine the island. My father being more fatigued than any body else, on
                     account of his long rheumatic complaint, was obliged to go to bed immediately;
                     but the other gentlemen supped with us, on a few fowls which we had purchased
                     on shore, and gave us some account of their travels. As it will be most
                     agreeable to see it in connection, I shall here insert that which I have
                     extracted from my father's journal.</p>

                  <p n="533">" Immediately after landing, we walked directly inland or across the
                     country, under the highest hill which lies towards the south, till we came to
                     the other side of the island. About an hundred natives, and among them four or
                     five women, accompanied us on our march, and sold us a quantity of potatoes and
                     a few fowls, which we added to our stock of provisions. We found the whole
                     country strewed with stones of various sizes, of a cavernous or spongy texture,
                     and of a black, brown, or reddish colour, which had indubitable marks of having
                     been in a volcanic fire. The paths through this rugged ground are in some
                     measure cleared of the stones, but so very narrow, that we were obliged to turn
                     our toes inwards, at which the natives are perfectly expert, and to set one
                     foot exactly before the other. This mode of walking was excessively fatiguing
                     to us who were not used to it, so that we continually hurt our feet or
                     stumbled. On both sides the ground was covered with a thing perennial
                     Jamaica-grass (<hi rend="italics">paspalum</hi>), which grew in bunches or
                     tufts, and was so slippery that we could not walk on it. We reached the east
                     side of the island, near a range of seven pillars or statues, of which only
                     four remained standing, and one of them had lost its cap. They stood on a
                     common pedestal, like those which we had seen on the other side, and its stones
                     were square and fitted exactly in the same manner. Though the stone of which
                     the statue itself is formed seems to be soft enough, being nothing but the red
                        <hi rend="italics">tufa</hi> which covers the whole island, yet it was
                     incomprehensible to me how such great masses could be formed by a set of people
                     among whom we saw no tools; or raised and erected by them without machinery.
                     The general appellation of this range was <hi rend="italics">Hanga</hi>
                     Tebòw; hanga being the word which they prefix to every range. The names of the
                     statues were <hi rend="italics">Ko</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn165">
                        <note xml:id="edn165" anchored="true">
                           <hi rend="italics">Ko</hi> is the article, as at <placeName>New
                              Zeeland</placeName> and in the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>.
                        </note>
                     </ref>
                     <hi rend="italics">-Tomoaï, Ko-Tomoèeree, Ko-Hòo-oo, Morahèena, Oomarèeva,
                        Weenâboo, Weenapè</hi>.</p>

                  <p n="534">" From hence we continued our march to the northward along the sea,
                     having a precipice on our right. The ground was the same ferrugineous <hi rend="italics">tufa</hi> for a considerable way, covered with small
                     fragments; but after some time we came to a spot which was a single coherent
                     rock or lump of black melted lava, which appeared to contain some iron. There
                     was not soil, grass, or plant whatsoever upon it. Beyond it we passed through a
                     number of plantations of bananas, potatoes, and yams, and one of eddoes. The
                     grass between the stones was plucked up and spread on the land, to screen it
                     from the sun, to keep the moisture of the rain in it, and at last to manure
                     it.</p>

                  <p n="535">" The natives continued to offer some potatoes for sale ready dressed,
                     and, at a hut where we halted, they sold us some fish. Some of them carried
                     arms, which were no other than the thin sticks we had seen before, and which
                     were headed with a black vitreous lava, carefully wrapped in a small piece of
                     cloth. Only one of them had a battle-axe, resembling that of the New
                     Zeelanders, though much shorter. It had a head carved on each side, and a small
                     round portion of the black glass above-mentioned instead of eyes. They had
                     likewise some small crooked human figures made of wood, of which we could not
                     learn the use or signification; we did not, however, think that our ignorance
                     on this subject intitled us to call them idols, which is too commonly the
                     judgment passed upon the works of art of unknown nations.</p>

                  <p n="536">" After leaving this hut we still advanced to the northward, without
                     seeing any new objects. A man and a woman met us from some neighbouring houses,
                     each with a large matted bag, of very neat workmanship, filled with hot
                     potatoes, and placed themselves by the side of the path where we were to pass.
                     As we came on, the man presented each of us with some of the roots, and having
                     distributed a portion to the whole party, he ran with amazing swiftness to the
                     head of our file to share out the rest, till he had given away the whole. He
                     received a large piece of cloth from me, which was the only requital for an
                     instance of hospitality, of which I never saw the like even at
                        <persName>Taheitee</persName>. Soon after the natives told us their <hi rend="italics">aree</hi>, or <hi rend="italics">hareekee</hi>, or king
                     was coming towards us. Several men came on before him, and distributed
                     sugar-canes to us all in sign of friendship, at the same time pronouncing the
                     word <hi rend="italics">heeo</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn166">
                        <note xml:id="edn166" anchored="true">
                           <hi rend="italics">Hòa</hi> at the <placeName>Society
                              Isles</placeName>; <hi rend="italics">wòa</hi> at the Friendly
                           Isles. </note>
                     </ref>, which signifies friend. We now saw the king standing on a hill, and
                     walked up to him, <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> and myself making him
                     some presents. We asked for his name, which he told us was <persName>Ko
                        Toheetai</persName>, adding that he was <hi rend="italics">aree</hi> or
                     king. We were desirous of knowing whether he was only the chief of a district,
                     or of the whole island; upon which he spread out his arms, as it were to
                     include the whole island, and said <hi rend="italics">Waihu</hi>. To shew
                     that we understood him, we laid our hands on his breast, and, calling him by
                     name, added his title, king of <placeName>Waihu</placeName>, at which he
                     expressed very great satisfaction, and conversed a great deal with his people
                     on that subject. He was a middle-aged man, rather tall; his face and whole body
                     strongly punctured. He wore a piece of cloth made of the mulberry bark, quilted
                     with threads of grass, and stained yellow with turmerick; and on his head he
                     had a cap of long shining black feathers, which might be called a diadem. We
                     did not perceive any great degree of homage or attention paid to him by the
                     people; and indeed in so poor a country there seems to be nothing which he
                     could have reserved for himself, without a manifest incroachment on the natural
                     rights of mankind, which might have produced dangerous effects. When we wanted
                     to continue our march he seemed to dislike it, and desired us to return,
                     offering to accompany us; but seeing our officer determined to proceed at all
                     events he desisted, and went with us.</p>

                  <p n="537">" We marched to an elevated spot, and stopped a little while to take
                     some refreshments, and to give <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> time to draw
                     some of the monuments, near one of which we found an entire skeleton of a man.
                     A good view of some of these monuments is inserted in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage. Our people sat down on the ground,
                     and laid their bundles of provision before them, whilst the officers, and other
                     gentlemen with myself, conversed with the natives. One of our sailors, who
                     carried my plant-bag, in which were a few nails, &amp;c. being less careful of
                     his bundle than the rest, a native snatched it up and ran off with it. None of
                     us saw it, except <persName>lieutenant Edgecumb</persName>, who immediately
                     fired his musket, loaded with small shot, at the thief, and thus gave the alarm
                     to us all. The native being wounded threw down the bag, which our people
                     recovered, but he fell soon after; his countrymen took him up, and fled to a
                     little distance, till we beckoned to them to return, which almost all of them
                     did. Though this was the only instance of firing at a native during our stay at
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, yet it is to be lamented that
                     Europeans too often assume the power of inflicting punishments on people who
                     are utterly unacquainted with their laws.</p>

                  <p n="538">" From this spot we continued our march a good way inland, and were
                     conducted to a deep well, which appeared to have been formed by art, and
                     contained good fresh water, though somewhat troubled. We all drank heartily of
                     it, and then went on, passing by several large statues, which had been
                     overturned, till we came in sight of the two hummocks, near which we had
                     perceived the greatest number of pillars or statues, from the ship, on the
                     12th. We mounted on an eminence in the neighbourhood, from whence we beheld the
                     sea on both sides of the island, across a plain which we had likewise
                     discovered from the ship at that time. We viewed the whole eastern coast, and
                     its numerous pillars, and were convinced that there was no bay or harbour on
                     that side of the island. With this information we returned back to a large
                     statue, which the natives called <hi rend="italics">Mangototo</hi>, and in
                     the shade of which we dined. In its neighbourhood we met with another huge
                     statue, which lay overturned; it was twenty-seven feet long, and nine feet in
                     diameter, exceeding in magnitude every other pillar which we had seen on the
                     island.</p>

                  <p n="539">" In returning, we stopped once more at the well, and quenched our
                     thirst, which the raging heat of the sun, reverberated from barren rocks, had
                     excited. From thence we directed our march something nearer the ridge of hills
                     which run along the middle of the island, but found the path more rugged and
                     fatiguing than ever, the country being strewed with volcanic cinders, and
                     desolate all round us, though we found many remaining proofs of its having been
                     formerly cultivated. I now felt how much I had been weakened by the long
                     continuance of the rheumatism, which had crippled all my limbs, and was hardly
                     able to keep up with the rest, though I had formerly, upon similar occasions,
                     been indefatigable. The natives seeing us strike into a difficult path had all
                     left us, except one man and a little boy. Finding that our officers with their
                     party, went too much out of their way, by mistaking the direction of our ship,
                     I left them; and with Dr. Sparrman, a sailor, and the two natives, pursued the
                     nearest path, which the latter had plainly pointed out. The man seeing me very
                     faint, offered me his hand, and walking on the loose stones by the side of the
                     path, with amazing dexterity supported me for a considerable way; the little
                     boy going before, and picking up the stones which obstructed the path. By
                     resting several times, we were at last enabled to reach the summit of the hill,
                     from whence we saw the sea to the west, and the ship at anchor. The hill was
                     covered with a shrubbery of the <hi rend="italics">mimosa</hi>, which grew
                     here to the height of eight or nine feet, and some of whose stems near the
                     root, were about the thickness of a man's thigh. We found another well
                     hereabouts, of which the water was infected with a putrid taste, and the smell
                     of <hi rend="italics">hepar sulphuris</hi>, but of which we drank,
                     notwithstanding its nauseousness. The sun set very soon after we had left this
                     well; so that we continued our walk downwards, for more than two hours entirely
                     in the dark, during which my Indian's assistance was particularly valuable to
                     me. I waited for Mr. Pickersgill and the rest of the party, having gained near
                     three miles upon them, and arrived safely at the sea-side with them, after
                     walking at the lowest computation, at least five and twenty miles on the most
                     detestable roads, where not a single tree appeared to give us shelter from the
                     scorching sun. I rewarded my friendly conductors with all the Taheitee cloth,
                     and iron ware, which I had about me, and arrived safely on board with the
                     party." </p>

                  <p n="540">From this narrative it is evident, that the most diligent enquiries on
                     our part, have not been sufficient to throw a clear light on the surprising
                     objects which struck our eyes in this island. We may however, attempt to
                     account for those gigantic monuments, of which great numbers exist in every
                     part; for as they are so disproportionate to the present strength of the
                     nation, it is most reasonable to look upon them as the remains of better times.
                     The nicest calculations which we could make, never brought the number of
                     inhabitants in this island beyond seven hundred<ref target="#edn167">
                        <note xml:id="edn167" anchored="true"> The Spaniards in the S. Lorenzo, and
                           frigate Rosalia, make the population of Easter Island amount to between
                           two and three thousand; but it may be doubted whether they examined the
                           interior country, as well as our people. See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> Letter to <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth</persName>.
                        </note>
                     </ref>, who, destitute of tools, of shelter, and clothing, are obliged to spend
                     all their time in providing food to support their precarious existence. It is
                     obvious that they are too much occupied with their wants, to think of forming
                     statues, which would cost them ages to finish, and require their united
                     strength to erect. Accordingly, we did not see a single instrument among them
                     on all our excursions, which could have been of the least use in masonry or
                     sculpture. We neither met with any quarries, where they had recently dug the
                     materials, nor with unfinished statues which we might have considered as the
                     work of the present race. It is therefore probable, that these people were
                     formerly more numerous, more opulent and happy, when they could spare
                     sufficient time to flatter the vanity of their princes, by perpetuating their
                     name by lasting monuments. The remains of plantations found on the summits of
                     the hills, give strength and support to this conjecture. It is not in our power
                     to determine by what various accidents a nation so flourishing, could be
                     reduced in number, and degraded to its present indigence. But we are well
                     convinced that many causes may produce this effect, and that the devastation
                     which a volcano might make, is alone sufficient to heap a load of miseries on a
                     people confined to so small a space. In fact, this island, which may perhaps,
                     in remote ages, have been produced by a volcano, since all its minerals are
                     merely volcanic, has at least in all likelihood been destroyed by its fire. All
                     kinds of trees and plants, all domestic animals, nay a great part of the nation
                     itself may have perished in the dreadful convulsion of nature: hunger and
                     misery must have been but too powerful enemies to those who escaped the fire.
                     We cannot well account for those little carved images which we saw among the
                     natives, and the representation of a dancing woman's hand, which, as I have
                     mentioned above, are made of wood, at present not to be met with upon the
                     island. The only idea which offers itself, is that they were made long ago, and
                     have been saved by accident or predilection, at the general catastrophe which
                     seems to have happened. All the women whom we saw in different parts of the
                     island, did not amount to thirty, though our people crossed it almost from one
                     end to the other, without seeing the least probability that the women had
                     retired to any secluded part. If there are really no more than thirty or forty
                     women, among six or seven hundred men, the whole nation is in a fair way of
                     becoming entirely extinct in a short space of time, unless all our physical
                     principles on the plurality of husbands are erroneous. The greater part of the
                     women whom we saw gave us no reason to suppose that they were accustomed to a
                     single partner; on the contrary, they seemed habitually to have arrived at the
                     spirit of <persName>Messalina</persName>, or of <persName>Cleopatra</persName>.
                     But this disproportion is such a singular phӕnomenon in human nature, that we
                     cannot without difficulty give credit to it, and would willingly lay hold of
                     any argument which, though incumbered with difficulties, might restore the
                     proportion between the sexes. It is true our party did not see any valley or
                     secluded glen, to which the women might have confined themselves during our
                     stay; but I must remind the reader of those caverns mentioned before, to which
                     the natives always refused to admit us. The caverns of
                        <placeName>Iceland</placeName> are spacious enough to contain several
                     thousand inhabitants; and nothing is more probable than that, in a similar
                     volcanic country, such caverns may afford room for a few hundreds. What reasons
                     the Easter Islanders may have to be more jealous of their women than the
                     Taheitians, we know not; but we are acquainted with the outrageous and wanton
                     behaviour of the sailor, wherever he has so great a superiority over the
                     Indian, as the Dutch and Spaniards must have had over the people of
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>. The principal objection against this
                     supposition is, however, the small number of children which we saw, there being
                     no reason to seclude them from our eyes, whatever might be thought necessary
                     with regard to the women. In short, this matter must remain unascertained, and
                     if, in fact, the number of women is inconsiderable, it must have been
                     diminished by some extraordinary accident, which none but the natives could
                     have explained; but, in all our doubts, our ignorance of their language
                     prevented us from acquiring any information.</p>

                  <p n="541">The next morning we sent a boat ashore to take in some water, and the
                     weather continuing calm, another went off to trade with the natives in order to
                     encrease our little stock of potatoes. One of the natives likewise plied
                     between the ship and the shore, bringing off potatoes and bananas in the
                     patched canoe. In the mean while a smart shower falling on board the ship,
                     enabled our people to collect a quantity of fresh water in the awnings and
                     sails of the ship, which were spread to catch it. Another boat went off to the
                     shore in the afternoon, but towards evening a faint breeze springing up, the
                     ship fired a gun, in consequence of which the boat came on board, and we sailed
                     N. W. by W. from <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="542">We had been greatly disappointed in the expectation which we had formed
                     of this island, as a place of refreshment. The only article of any importance
                     was their sweet potatoes; but after we had regularly shared out all we had
                     purchased, the common people had only a few scanty meals of them. As to the
                     bananas, yams, and sugar-canes which we had bought, they were in such
                     inconsiderable quantities, that they scarce deserve to be mentioned. All the
                     fowls which we had obtained, and which, in general, were of a very small breed,
                     did not amount to fifty; and even the quantity of water which we had filled was
                     inconsiderable and ill tasted. However, this small supply was so seasonable,
                     that it preserved us from the too violent attacks of the scurvy and bilious
                     disorders, till we could reach a better place of refreshment. Indeed, when I
                     consider the wretched situation of the inhabitants, I am surprised that they
                     parted with a quantity of provisions to us, of which the cultivation must have
                     cost them great pains and labour. The barren refractory soil of their island,
                     the scarcity of domestic animals, and the want of boats and proper materials
                     for fishing, all concur to render their means of subsistence extremely
                     difficult and precarious. Yet the desire of possessing the new toys and
                     curiosities which strangers bring among them, hurried them away, and prevented
                     their reflecting on the urgency of their own most natural and unavoidable
                     wants. In this, as in numberless other circumstances, they agree with the
                     tribes who inhabit <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, the <placeName>Friendly
                        and the Society Islands</placeName>, and who seem to have had one common
                     origin with them. Their features are very similar, so that the general
                     character may easily be distinguished. Their colour, a yellowish brown, most
                     like the hue of the New Zeelanders; their art of puncturing, the use of the
                     mulberry-bark for clothing, the predilection for red paint and red dresses, the
                     shape and workmanship of their clubs, the mode of dressing their victuals, all
                     form a strong resemblance to the natives of the islands above mentioned. We may
                     add to these, the simplicity of their languages, that of <placeName>Easter
                        Island</placeName> being a dialect which, in many respects, resembles that
                     of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, especially in the harshness of
                     pronunciation and the use of gutturals, and yet in other instances, partakes of
                     that of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The monarchical government likewise
                     strengthens the affinity between the Easter Islanders and the tropical tribes,
                     its prerogatives being only varied according to the different degrees of
                     fertility of the islands, and the opulence or luxury of the people.
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, or, as the natives call it,
                        <placeName>Waihu</placeName>, is so very barren, that the whole number of
                     plants growing upon it does not exceed twenty species, of which far the greater
                     part is cultivated<ref target="#edn168">
                        <note xml:id="edn168" anchored="true"> The Spaniards mention white
                           calabashes, (<hi rend="italics">pompions</hi>), among the vegetable
                           productions of this island; but we did not see any. See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> judicious letter to Dr. Hawkesworth. </note>
                     </ref>; though the space which the plantations occupy is inconsiderable,
                     compared with that which lies waste. The soil is altogether stoney, and parched
                     by the sun, and water is so scarce, that the inhabitants drink it out of wells
                     which have a strong admixture of brine; nay, some of our people really saw them
                     drink of the sea-water when they were thirsty. Their habit of body must, in
                     some measure, be influenced by these circumstances; they are meagre, and their
                     muscles hard and rigid; they live very frugally, and, in general, go almost
                     wholly naked, only covering the head, which is the most sensible of heat, with
                     feathered caps, and puncturing or daubing the rest with colours. Their ideas of
                     decency are, of course, very different from those of nations who are accustomed
                     to clothing. They cut short their hair and beards from motives of cleanliness,
                     like the people of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, but fortunately seemed
                     to be less subject to leprous complaints. It is easy to conclude that the kind
                     of such a people cannot have great and conspicuous advantages of the
                     commonalty, nor did our party observe any thing of that kind. The religion of
                     the Easter Islanders is still wholly unknown to us, because abstract ideas are
                     not to be acquired in so short a time as our stay. The statues, which are
                     erected in honour of their kings, have a great affinity to the wooden figures,
                     called Tee, on the chief's maraïs or burying-places at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; but we could not possibly consider them as
                     idols, though <persName>Roggewein's</persName> people would pass them for such
                     upon us. The fires which the Dutch interpret as sacrifices, were only made use
                     of by the natives to dress their meals; and though the Spaniards suspected them
                     to be a kind of superstition, they were, perhaps. equally mistaken, because the
                     scarcity of fuel obliged the inhabitants to be careful of it, and to prevent
                     their provisions being uncovered after they had once been put under ground with
                     heated stones.</p>

                  <p n="543">We are unacquainted with the amusements of the people of
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, having never seen them engaged in any
                     kind of diversion, nor taken notice of a single musical instrument among them.
                     They cannot, however, be entire strangers to amusement, since
                        <persName>Maròo-wahai</persName>, who slept on board, talked a great deal of
                     dancing, as soon as we had quieted his fears with respect to the safety of his
                     person. The disposition of these people is far from being warlike; their
                     numbers are too inconsiderable, and their poverty too general, to create civil
                     disturbances amongst them. It is equally improbable that they have foreign
                     wars, since hitherto we know of no island near enough to admit of an
                     intercourse between the inhabitants; neither could we obtain any intelligence
                     from those of Easter Island upon the subject. This being premised, it is
                     extraordinary that they should have different kinds of offensive weapons, and
                     especially such as resemble those of the New Zeelanders; and we must add this
                     circumstance to several others, which are inexplicable to us in their kind.</p>

                  <p n="544">Upon the whole, supposing <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> to have
                     undergone a late misfortune from volcanic fires, its inhabitants are more to be
                     pitied than any less civilized society, being acquainted with a number of
                     conveniencies, comforts, and luxuries of life, which they formerly possessed,
                     and of which the remembrance must embitter the loss.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> frequently lamented their unhappy situation, and
                     seemed to feel for them more than he had done for the New Zeelanders, because
                     he found them much more destitute. He added another stick to the bundle which
                     composed his journal, and remembered <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> with
                     this observation, <hi rend="italics">tàta maïtaï, whennùa èeno</hi>, that
                     the people were good, but the island very bad; whereas at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> he had found more fault with the natives than the
                     country. His feelings were always warm from the heart, which education had
                     filled with real philanthropy; they were likewise just, in general, because his
                     senses were sound and acute, and his understanding, though uncultivated, was
                     free from many prejudices.</p>


               </div>
               <milestone unit="volume"/>
               <div n="5" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. V.<lb/>
                     Run from <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> to the
                           <placeName>Marquesas</placeName> - Stay in <placeName>Madre-de-Dios
                           harbour</placeName> on <placeName>Waitahoo</placeName> - Course from
                        thence through the <placeName> Islands</placeName> to
                           <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>
                  <p n="545">
                     <date>[1774. March.][Thursday 17.]</date>THE breeze with which we sailed from
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> was so gentle, that we were still in
                     sight of it the next day at noon, at the distance of fifteen leagues. The
                     weather was rather sultry, and <persName>captain Cook</persName> relapsed into
                     his former bilious disorder, by having exerted himself too much on shore,
                     during the violent heat of noon. All those who had been on the long excursion
                     across the island, had their faces blistered by the sun, and extremely painful
                     in proportion as the skin peeled off. The short stay near the land, and the use
                     of a few vegetables from thence, had greatly restored to their health those who
                     were afflicted with the scurvy before; and several, though excessively weak,
                     felt no inconvenience at present. It is true, the little supply at
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> served only as a whet to our appetite,
                     and made us all extremely eager in our wishes of reaching the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName> of <placeName>Mendoça</placeName>, whither
                     we now directed our course. Very fortunately for us the wind freshened the next
                     day, and continued so for some time, giving life to our hopes, and inspiring
                     more chearfulness than we had known for some months past.</p>

                  <p n="546">In a few days, however, we were much alarmed to find several people
                     sickening again, and particularly complaining of constipations and bilious
                     disorders, which are deadly in hot climates. Among these was our excellent
                     surgeon himself, whose illness gave us more pain than almost any thing else.
                     The most unlucky circumstance was, that the patients could not eat the potatoes
                     which we had brought from the shore, because they were too flatulent for their
                     weakened stomachs.</p>

                  <p n="547">
                     <date>[Thursday 24.]</date>A calm which happened on the 24th, our latitude
                     being about <geo select="lat">17° s</geo>outh, was very disagreeable to the
                     sick, and brought some of them very low. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>
                     himself was obliged to keep his bed again, being afflicted with some alarming
                     symptoms. However the wind returned in the afternoon, and freshening
                     considerably in a day or two, cooled the air very pleasantly. This weather was
                     very salutary to all the bilious patients; so that they appeared on deck, and
                     walked, or rather crawled about, though exceedingly emaciated.</p>

                  <p n="548">My father ordered his Taheitian dog, the only one which still remained
                     alive after our departure from the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, to
                     be killed; it was cut into quarters, which were served up to <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> during several days, and gave him some nourishment, as he
                     could not venture to taste the ship's provisions. By such small helps we
                     succeeded in preserving a life upon which the success of the voyage in a great
                     measure depended.</p>

                  <p n="549">We daily saw Tropic birds and shearwaters after leaving
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, and frightened many shoals of flying
                     fish out of the water. These fish were remarkably numerous on <date>[Saturday
                        27.]</date>the 27th, when we saw none but small ones, the largest not
                     exceeding the length of a finger, and the least scarcely so long as one of its
                     joints. Our latitude that day, at noon, was <geo select="lat">13° 13'
                     s</geo>outh.</p>


                  <p n="550">
                     <date>[1774. April.]</date>Since the calm on the 24th we had a fine steady gale
                     from the eastward, which speeded our course prodigiously. The weather in
                     general was serene, and the colour of the ocean a fine rich blue, bearing
                     always a considerable relation to that of the sky. Dolphins, bonitos, and
                     sharks appeared from time to time, and various birds at war with flying fishes
                     enlivened the scene. To add to our comfort, the heat of the sun became
                     perfectly agreeable to us, being tempered by the rapid motion of the air, and
                     permitted us to walk about the decks with some satisfaction. Nothing less was
                     wanting to keep up our fainting spirits, and to strengthen the sick, who might
                     be said to feed entirely upon hope, having no refreshments to restore their
                     wasted strength. We had already consumed all the vegetables which had been
                     purchased at <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>; nothing therefore remained,
                     but either to return to the loathed diet of salted meat, of which the juices
                     were utterly destroyed, by lying in pickle for three years, or to starve on a
                     small quantity of bread, if the stomach could not digest those gross and
                     unprofitable fibres. We were therefore unanimous in our wishes of a speedy
                     deliverance; and in proportion as the breeze slackened or encreased, the
                     thermometer of our expectations fluctuated from abject despondence to the most
                     sanguine expectation. All our books which treated of
                        <persName>Mendaça's</persName> Voyages were consulted; and since the vague
                     expressions, relative to the distance of the <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>
                     from <placeName>Peru</placeName>, gave us full scope for conjecture, every day
                     produced a new calculation of their longitude. For the space of five days we
                     successively passed over the different positions which our new geographers had
                     allotted to those islands, and overturned each new hypothesis, not without some
                     diversion to the rest, who either artfully concealed their own opinion, or
                     candidly confessed that the <hi rend="italics">data</hi> were too uncertain
                     to bear a superstructure. During this course we enjoyed some beautiful
                     evenings, and particularly observed the sky and clouds tinged with different
                     hues of green by the setting sun, on the 3d of April. This colour has been
                     observed by <persName>Frezier</persName> before, and is in fact nothing
                     extraordinary, especially if the air happens to be charged with vapours, which
                     is frequently the case between the tropics. The same day we had caught a small
                     sucking fish, adhering to a flying fish, with which we had baited a hook: a
                     proof that these little creatures are not always fixed to sharks. The same day
                     we saw a large fish of the genus of rays, which is called a sea-devil by some
                     authors. It perfectly resembled that which we had seen in the
                        <placeName>Atlantic</placeName>, on the first of September, 1772. (See vol.
                     I. p. 47). The number of terns, tropic, and man of war birds, encreased around
                     us almost every day, as we ran to the westward, and approached the islands
                     which we expected to find. At last, on the 6th of April in the afternoon, we
                     had sight of a small bluff island; but the haze which involved it, and which
                     thickened as we advanced, prevented our examining the nature of the land, and
                     building any hopes of refreshment on its appearance.
                        <persName>Quiros</persName>, who is supposed to have written the account of
                     the voyage of the Spanish Adelentado (or captain-general) <persName>Don Alvaro
                        Mendaça de Neyra</persName>, in the year 1595, gives a favourable account of
                     the group of islands discovered in that voyage, which were named the
                        <placeName>Islas Marquesas de Mendoça</placeName>, in honour of the viceroy
                     of <placeName>Peru</placeName>, <persName>Don Garcia Hurtado de
                        Mendoça</persName>, marquis of <placeName>Cañete</placeName>, who had set on
                     foot that expedition. We had recourse to this account, in order to gain some
                     information relative to the land which now engrossed all our attention.
                        <date>[Thursday 7.]</date>The next morning we stood in-shore, and though the
                     weather still continued hazy, we soon distinguished the different islands which
                     the Spaniards have called <placeName>la Dominica</placeName>, <placeName>St.
                        Pedro</placeName>, and <placeName>St. Christina</placeName>. We were
                     convinced at the same time, that the small bluff island which we had first
                     fallen in with, had not been seen by <persName>Mendaça</persName>; and
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> gave it the name of <placeName>Hood's
                        Island</placeName>, from the person who first discovered it. <placeName>La
                        Dominica</placeName>, which lay nearest to us, was a high and mountainous
                     island, of which the N. E. point was very steep and barren; but farther to the
                     north we observed some vallies filled with trees, amongst which we now and then
                     discovered a hut. As the haze cleared away, we saw many craggy rocks like
                     spires, and several hollow summits piled up in the centre of the island, which
                     proved that volcanoes and earthquakes had been active there in changing the
                     face of the country. All its eastern part is a prodigious steep and almost
                     perpendicular wall, of a great height, which forms a sharp ridge, shattered
                     into spires and precipices. <placeName>St. Pedro</placeName> is a small island,
                     of very moderate elevation, but did not appear either fertile or populous.
                        <placeName>St. Christina</placeName>, the westermost of all, had the most
                     promising appearance; and, though very high and steep, yet had several vallies,
                     which widened towards the sea, and were covered with fine forests to the
                     summits of the mountain. About <time>three o'clock</time> we entered the
                     straits, between the south end of <placeName>Dominica</placeName>, and the N.
                     E. part of <placeName>St. Christina</placeName>, which is above two miles wide.
                     We observed some pleasant spots on both islands, between the clefts of the
                     mountain; but saw no plains, like those which so greatly embellish the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>. The shore of <placeName>St.
                        Christina</placeName> was, however, sufficient to revive all our spirits,
                     and inspired that cheerfulness which every fertile and pleasing prospect gives
                     to the weary mariner. We passed several little coves, where the white foaming
                     surf tumbled in upon the beach. The two projecting points of every cove
                     included a valley, filled with forests and plantations, of a pleasing verdure.
                     On every beach we saw some inhabitants running about, or gazing at our ship.
                     Sometimes they launched their canoes, and attempted to come after us; but a
                     strong breeze carried us so swiftly through the smooth water, that we left them
                     far behind. We found a harbour on the west side of the island, which looked so
                     tempting, that we eagerly wished to come to an anchor; but just as we were
                     turning about, in order to run into it, a heavy squall came over the high
                     mountain with prodigious violence, and laid the ship on her side, so that we
                     sprung our mizen-topmast, and narrowly escaped being driven against the
                     southern point of the harbour. After we had trimmed our sails again, we tacked,
                     and anchored about <time>five o'clock</time> in the entrance of the harbour.
                     During the squall, about fifteen canoes, putting off from different parts of
                     the island, came near the ship. Some were double, and contained fifteen men;
                     others, on the contrary, were small, and had from three to seven men. As soon
                     as we were at anchor, we invited the natives, by every sign of friendship, and
                     by addressing them in the Taheitian language, to come on board. This they did
                     not venture to do; but at first they brought their canoes close alongside, and
                     offered us some pepper-roots, which were doubtless signs of peace, as at the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.
                     After we had fastened these roots to the shrouds, they sold us a few fish in
                     exchange for nails, and likewise some excellent large bread-fruit, perfectly
                     ripe, at sight of which our whole ship's company expressed the greatest marks
                     of joy in their countenances.</p>

                  <p n="551">The natives about us were a well-made, handsome people, of a good
                     yellowish or tawny colour, but looked almost black, by being punctured over the
                     whole body. They were all naked, having only a small piece of cloth, perfectly
                     resembling that made by the people of Taheitee, round their waist and loins.
                     Their beards and hair were of a fine jetty black, and their language much
                     nearer the Taheitian, than any other dialect in the South Sea, with this
                     difference, that they could not pronounce the <hi rend="italics">r</hi>.
                     Their canoes were thin, and formed of boards slightly sewed together, and their
                     paddles were made like those of Taheitee, with a knob at the end. We
                     continually enquired for hogs, and told them to bring us some; and towards
                     night we had the satisfaction to see a pig along-side, which we purchased for a
                     knife. As soon as it was dark, the canoes retired, according to the general
                     custom of all the nations in the South Sea we had hitherto seen, on whom the
                     novelty of an European ship cannot prevail to wake a single night. The vallies
                     in our harbour were very full of trees, and every part answered the graphical
                     description which the Spaniards have given, and by which we were well convinced
                     that their harbour of <hi rend="italics">Madre de Dios</hi> was the same
                     where we had anchored<ref target="#edn169">
                        <note xml:id="edn169" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> Collection, vol. I. p. 66. </note>
                     </ref>. Its situation, deduced from astronomical observation, is in <geo select="lat">9° 55' S.</geo> latitude, and <geo select="lon">139° S.
                        W.</geo> longitude. We saw many fires through the trees, at a great distance
                     from the water, and concluded the country to be well inhabited. <date>[Friday
                        8.]</date>The next morning early we had a full view of the land, clear of
                     the clouds which rested on it in the evening. On the south side rises a peak,
                     which is very craggy and inaccessible. All the north side is a black, burnt
                     hill, of which the rock is vaulted along the sea-shore, and the top clad to the
                     summit with a shrubbery of casuarinas. But the bottom of the harbour is filled
                     up with a very high ridge, level at top, and resembling the Table-mountain at
                     the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>. Several vallies, perfectly filled
                     with trees, lead up from two beaches to the very summit of the mountain, which
                     appears excessively steep. Along its uppermost edge we saw a row of stakes or
                     pallisadoes, closely connected together, like a fortification, within which, by
                     the help of our glasses, we discerned something like huts. These places we
                     supposed to be what the Spaniards have called intrenchments; but they bore a
                     great resemblance to the hippas of the New Zeelanders, which are commonly
                     situated on high ridges, and surrounded with pallisades.</p>

                  <p n="552">The natives, encouraged by the trade which we had begun the evening
                     before, came off in several canoes, soon after sun-rise, and brought great
                     quantities of bread fruit, which we bought for small nails. They likewise sold
                     some bananas, and traded very fair for some time, but without venturing to come
                     on board. However, after breakfast, it appeared that their disposition had but
                     too much similarity with that of the Taheitians. Some of them began to deal
                     dishonestly with us, receiving the nail for which they had offered a
                     bread-fruit, without delivering it in return. The captain, to intimidate them,
                     fired a musket over their heads. This had the desired effect, and they
                     immediately handed up the fruit for which we had bargained. Some others, after
                     they had sold their goods, came on board to be gazed at, and to gaze. While
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> prepared to go into his boat with my
                     father, one of these natives, finding the large iron stanchion loose, to which
                     the man-ropes on the ship's side, by which we ascended or descended, were
                     fastened, snatched it up, leaped overboard with it, and, notwithstanding its
                     weight, swam with great agility to his canoe, where he secured it. This
                     hazardous enterprize being reported to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, who
                     was just stepping into the boat, he ordered a musket to be fired over the
                     native's head, whilst he meant to come round the ship, to recover the
                     stanchion. The musket was fired, but the man took no notice of it, looking
                     about him with great unconcern. The captain hearing it, ordered another to be
                     fired, and put off from the ship. The second shot had no other effect than the
                     first; upon which an officer, who that moment came upon deck, snatched up a
                     musket, and taking exact aim, shot the man through the head. His companion in
                     the same canoe instantly threw the iron into the sea, which had been the cause
                     of this unfortunate event. The captain in his boat came up, and saw the canoe
                     full of blood, and the dead corse lying in it. The other native baled the blood
                     out into the sea, and then retired to the shore with all the other canoes, and
                     left us perfectly alone. The natives on the beach hauled the canoe through the
                     surf, and carried the corse up into the woods. Presently after we heard drums
                     beating, and saw a considerable number of the inhabitants assembled on the
                     beach, with spears and clubs in their hands, which had a very unfriendly
                     appearance, and rather seemed to threaten that we had no farther refreshments
                     to expect. We cannot but lament, that the time in which this man was killed, by
                     a person who was ignorant of the nature of his offence, did not admit of any
                     previous consideration. The first discoverers and conquerors of America have
                     often, and very deservedly, been stigmatised with cruelty, because they treated
                     the wretched nations of that continent, not as their brethren, but as
                     irrational beasts, whom it was lawful to shoot for diversion; and yet, in our
                     enlightened age, prejudice and rashness have often proved fatal to the
                     inhabitants of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> burst into tears, when he saw one man killing
                     another on so trifling an occasion. Let his feelings put those civilized
                     Europeans to the blush, who have humanity so often on their lips, and so seldom
                     in their hearts!</p>

                  <p n="553">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, knowing the weak condition of his crew, was
                     unwilling to relinquish the hope of procuring refreshments at this island; and
                     therefore, after directing the ship to be removed deeper into the harbour,
                     selected a party of marines and sailors, and landed under the vaulted rocks to
                     the northward, accompanied by <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>,
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>, my father, and myself. A great troop of the
                     natives, consisting of more than a hundred men, received us on these rocks with
                     spears and clubs in their hands, of which they did not attempt to make any use.
                     We approached them with demonstrations of friendship, which they returned; and
                     our first request was that they should sit down, to which they instantly
                     agreed. We then endeavoured to shew the best side of what had happened, and
                     acquainted them that we had only shot at one of their countrymen, because he
                     had made free with our property; that we were desirous of living as friends
                     with them; and that we only came to take in wood, water, and refreshments, for
                     which we had nails, hatchets, and other curious articles to offer in return.
                     The natives were pacified by our specious reasonings; they seemed to think
                     their countryman had deserved his fate, and conducted us round the beach to a
                     fine brook, where we established our waterers, and began to purchase some
                     fruits, which were at first brought down very sparingly. For greater security,
                     the marines were drawn up in a line, under arms, and our return to the water
                     secured. But we had no occasion for these precautions; the people with whom we
                     dealt were too honest to break a peace to which they had consented, and of too
                     gentle a disposition to revenge the death of a man whom they could not entirely
                     acquit. In a short time our trade went on more briskly, and the natives came
                     down with loads of plantanes, bananas, and bread-fruit from the hills, which
                     they sold for a trifling consideration of iron ware. </p>

                  <p n="554">Among the croud we saw no women, they having probably retired to the
                     mountains on the first alarm; but there were some men better armed and
                     ornamented than the rest, who seemed to be their leaders. They were all without
                     cloathing, having nothing but a small piece of cloth to cover the loins. They
                     were tall, and extremely well limbed; not one of them unweildly or corpulent
                     like a Taheitian, nor meagre and shrivelled like a native of <placeName>Easter
                        Island</placeName>. The punctuation which almost entirely covered the men of
                     a middle age, made it difficult to distinguish their elegance of form; but
                     among the youths, who were not yet marked or tattowed, it was easy to discover
                     beauties singularly striking, and often without a blemish, such as demanded the
                     admiration of all beholders. Many of them might be placed near the famous
                     models of antiquity, and would not suffer in the comparison:</p>

                  <p n="555">
                     <q>
                        <l>Qualis aut Nireus fuit, aut aquosâ</l>
                        <l>Raptus ab Idâ,</l>
                        <persName>Hor</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="556">The natural colour of these youths was not quite so dark as that of the
                     common people in the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>; but the men appeared
                     to be infinitely blacker, on account of the punctures which covered their whole
                     body, from head to foot. These punctures were disposed with the utmost
                     regularity; so that the marks on each leg, arm, and cheek, and on the
                     corresponding muscles, were exactly similar. They never assumed the determinate
                     form of an animal or plant, but consisted of a variety of blotches, spirals,
                     bars, chequers, and lines, which had a most motley appearance. Their
                     countenances were pleasing, open, and full of vivacity; their eyes were large
                     and dark-coloured; their hair black, curled, and strong; a few excepted, who
                     had light-coloured or sandy hair. The beard however was thin in general, on
                     account of the numerous scars of punctures which commonly covered that part of
                     the face. The number of ornaments, in some measure, might be said to supply the
                     want of cloathing. On their heads many of them wore a kind of diadem; this
                     consisted of a flat bandage wrought of coco-nut core, on the outside of which
                     several round pieces of mother of pearl, some of them five inches in diameter,
                     were fixed, covered in the middle with a plate of tortoise-shell, perforated
                     like fret-work. Several tufts of long, black, and glossy cock's feathers formed
                     the plumes to this head-dress, which was really beautiful and noble in its
                     kind. Some wore round coronets of the small ligulated feathers of the man of
                     war bird, and others a circle, from whence several ranges of twisted strings of
                     coco-nut core, about two inches long, either of the natural colour, or dyed
                     black, diverged round the head. In their ears they sometimes placed two flat
                     pieces of a light wood, of an oval shape, about three inches long, covering the
                     whole ear, and painted them white with lime. Their leaders wore a kind of
                     gorget round the neck, or rather on the breast; it consisted of small portions
                     of a light wood, like cork, glued together with gum, in a semicircular form; a
                     quantity of scarlet-beans (<hi rend="italics">abrus precatorius</hi>, Linn.)
                     are glued all round it with the same gum, forming a great number of rows, of
                     the length of two or three inches. Those who were not possessed of this glaring
                     ornament, at least wore a string round the neck, and fastened it to a piece of
                     shell, which was cut and polished in the shape of a large tooth. They were also
                     fond of having bunches of human hair tied on a string round their waist, arms,
                     knees, and ancles. All these ornaments they freely parted with for a trifling
                     consideration, except the last, which they valued very highly, though they were
                     the usual residence of many vermin. It is probable that these bunches of hair
                     were worn in remembrance of their dead relations, and therefore looked upon
                     with some veneration; or else they may be the spoils of their enemies, worn as
                     the honourable testimonies of victory. However a large nail, or something which
                     struck their eyes, commonly got the better of their scruples.</p>

                  <p n="557">After we had made these observations on the people who surrounded us,
                     we left the beach, and rambled through the woods at a short distance from
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> station, collecting several plants, of
                     which we had seen the greatest part at the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>. As we did not care to advance far into the country the
                     first day, we confined ourselves to the low land, which bordered upon the
                     beach, and which we found entirely uninhabited. However we met with a number of
                     square compartments among the trees, laid out with great stones, mostly of a
                     regular square figure; which we afterwards learnt, were the foundations of
                     their houses. It may be conjectured from thence, that these places have been
                     abandoned, on account of some inconvenience of the ground; or that they are
                     only made use of at certain seasons. All this part was destitute of
                     plantations, and covered with forest-trees, some of which seemed to be very
                     good timber. The natives did not attempt to stop us, and left us to pursue our
                     walk entirely by ourselves. A little hill, covered with long grass up to our
                     middle, and broken into a perpendicular wall to the sea, juts forward, and
                     divides this beach from another to the southward. On the north side of this
                     hill we found a fine spring of clear water, in the very place where the Spanish
                     navigators have described it, which gushes out of the rock, and is collected in
                     a little bason, from whence it flows into the sea. A brook runs down from the
                     higher hills close to it; another more considerable descends on the middle of
                     the beach, and supplied us with water; and again another is to be met with in
                     the northern corner. This island is therefore extremely well watered; and the
                     vegetation, as well as the inhabitants, evidently derive great benefit from it
                     in this hot climate. We soon returned to the trading place with our
                     acquisitions, and conversed with the natives, who had now so far laid aside
                     their distrust, as to part with their arms to us for our iron tools. These
                     weapons were all made of the club-wood, or casuarina<ref target="#edn170">
                        <note xml:id="edn170" anchored="true"> The Taheitians call it <hi rend="italics">óä</hi>, which signifies war, because it furnishes the
                           instruments of bloodshed. </note>
                     </ref>, and were either plain spears, about eight or ten feet long, or clubs,
                     which commonly had a large knob at one end. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>
                     had been very successful in the meanwhile, having procured a great quantity of
                     fruit and several hogs, with all which we embarked in our boats at noon. The
                     weather which had been very warm on shore, was really much cooler on board,
                     where the wind came down in strong gusts from the mountains, sometimes attended
                     with small showers.</p>

                  <p n="558">In the afternoon I remained on board, but my father accompanied the
                     captain on shore, and went up the hill a little way to a wretched hut; but
                     finding no inhabitants there, who had probably been alarmed by their shooting
                     at birds, he put several nails on a few bread-fruit, which he saw close to the
                     hut, and then descended to the beach with some botanical acquisitions.</p>

                  <p n="559">
                     <date>[Saturday 9.]</date>Seven canoes arrived about the ship from
                        <placeName>La Dominica</placeName> the next morning, whilst several others
                     from <placeName>St. Christina</placeName> went up the strait. The former seemed
                     to be of the same nation with those with whom we were already acquainted, and
                     brought the same fruits to sell, which we had purchased in this island. We went
                     on shore after breakfast, and found our friendly natives assembled on the
                     beach. Among them was a chief, who was dressed in a cloak manufactured of the
                     paper-mulberry bark, like the Taheitian cloth, and who wore the diadem, the
                     gorget, the ear-pendants, and bunches of hair. We learnt that this man was the
                     king of the whole island, though he had not great respect shewn him. He
                     presented <persName>captain Cook</persName> with some fruits and hogs, and
                     continued in the neighbourhood of our people the whole day. He acquainted us
                     that his name was <hi rend="italics">Hònoo</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn171">
                        <note xml:id="edn171" anchored="true"> This word signifies a turtle, or
                           sea-tortoise, in the Taheitian language; it is therefore probable that
                           the names of these people sometimes are taken from animals, like those of
                           the North-American Indians. In the same manner <hi rend="italics">O-Too</hi>, the name of the king of
                           <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, signifies a heron. </note>
                     </ref>, and that he was <hi rend="italics">he-ka-aï</hi>, which was
                     doubtless a title corresponding to the aree of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>,
                     and areekee of the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>. He seemed to be a
                     very good-natured, intelligent man, a character so prevalent in his
                     countenance, that <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, who drew his picture, could
                     not fail of expressing it, as may be seen in the print of him, in
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this voyage. We enquired for
                     the name of this island and the adjacent ones, and found that <placeName>St.
                        Christina</placeName> was called <placeName>Waitahoo</placeName>,
                        <placeName>La Dominica</placeName>
                     <placeName>Heevaroa</placeName>, and <placeName>St. Pedro</placeName>
                     <placeName>Onateyo</placeName>. <persName>Mahine</persName>, who was
                     excessively fond of these people, on account of the vast similarity between
                     their manners, language and persons, and those of his nation, was continually
                     engaged in conversation with them, and purchased a great number of their
                     ornaments. He shewed them many customs of his country, with which they were
                     unacquainted, and among these was the method of lighting a fire, by rubbing
                     together the dry sticks of the <hi rend="italics">hibiscus tiliaceus</hi>,
                     to which they were extremely attentive. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> found
                     a great quantity of vegetables, some fowls and hogs, at the trading place,
                     which he purchased for small nails, knives, pieces of cloth, &amp;c. The red
                     feathers of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> or <placeName>Amsterdam
                        Island</placeName>, were likewise in great repute here, and the natives gave
                     many head-dresses, and other ornaments, in exchange for them. We saw only one
                     woman this day, who sat down in the circle of her countrymen, and was dressed
                     in a piece of cloth made of bark, like the women of the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>. She was an elderly woman, and scarce distinguishable
                     from a Taheitian. We walked this day about a mile and a half, on the south side
                     of the rivulet. After crossing a clear spot, some whence we had a full prospect
                     of the harbour, we entered a thick wood, where we saw chiefly the ratta, or
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> nuttrees (<hi rend="italics">inocarpus<ref target="#edn172">
                           <note xml:id="edn172" anchored="true"> See Forst. Nova Genera Plantar.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </hi>) which grew to a considerable size and height, and some fine
                     bread-fruit trees; both which are planted in the plains at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, the heat being less violent there than at
                     these islands. At last we came to one of the huts of the natives, which, in
                     comparison with the lofty houses of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>,
                     was only a wretched hovel. It was placed on an elevated platform of stones,
                     which were not smooth and even enough to form a very comfortable couch, though
                     they were covered with mats. On this base the natives had erected a quantity of
                     bamboo-canes, closely connected together, between five and six feet high, above
                     which the roof rose in a ridge at top, consisting of small sticks, thatched
                     with the leaves of the bread-fruit and ratta tree. The whole house might be
                     about fifteen feet long, and eight or ten feet broad, and the method of placing
                     it on a foundation of stones, seemed to intimate that the country is subject to
                     heavy rains and inundations at certain seasons. We saw some large wooden
                     troughs here, and found pieces of bread-fruit, mixed with water, in them. Three
                     natives appeared near the hut, who, at our desire, went down about a hundred
                     yards to the brook, and brought us some fresh water to drink. Having rewarded
                     them for their readiness to serve us, we walked to the beach, and from thence
                     returned on board. In getting into our boat, we ran the greatest risk in the
                     world of being overset, and were wetted by the surf, which broke upon the
                     rocks. <persName>Mahine</persName>, who still remained on shore, plunged into
                     the water, and swam to the boat, to prevent our exposing ourselves once more to
                     the same danger in taking him in.</p>

                  <p n="560">
                     <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> staid on board with me in the afternoon,
                     describing and drawing some plants which we had collected in the morning; but
                     my father returned ashore with the captain to the southern beach, where he
                     found several habitations near the sea, but saw no women. This was the same
                     beach to which the natives had carried the dead body of their countryman. They
                     were conducted to a house, which had been that unfortunate man's dwelling, and
                     saw several hogs there, now the property of his son, a youth of fifteen years,
                     to whom they made several expiatory presents. Our people enquired for his
                     female relations, but were told they remained on the top of the mountain, to
                     weep and mourn for the dead. We had some reason to suspect, from this account,
                     that the pallisades or enclosures along the top of the rock, surrounded the
                     burying-places of the inhabitants. The captain purchased a quantity of fruit,
                     and several hogs, at this beach; and though he was in the midst of the
                     relations of a man whom our people had killed, he did not perceive the least
                     animosity or spirit of revenge amongst them.</p>

                  <p n="561">The next morning <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> went on shore with
                     me to the watering place, where the trade for provisions was very considerable.
                     Our iron ware was however lowered in value at least two hundred per cent. since
                     our anchorage in the harbour. Our small nails, which they had eagerly taken at
                     first, were now no longer current; and even the large ones were not much
                     coveted. Beads were not esteemed at all; but ribbons, cloth, and other trifles
                     were more agreeable. Some large hogs were purchased for pieces of the
                     mulberry-bark, covered with red feathers, which we had obtained at the
                        <placeName>island of Amsterdam</placeName> or
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="562">The weather was exceedingly hot this day, for which reason many of the
                     inhabitants made use of large fans to cool themselves. These fans, of which
                     they sold us a great number, were formed of a kind of tough bark or grass, very
                     firmly and curiously plaited, and frequently whitened with shell-lime. Some
                     also had large feathered leaves, which answered the purpose of an umbrella, and
                     upon examination, were found to belong to the <hi rend="italics">corypha
                        umbraculi-fera</hi>, Linn. a kind of palm. The fans are represented on a
                     reduced scale on the same plate, with the head-dresses of these people, and
                     inserted in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this voyage.</p>

                  <p n="563">Notwithstanding the immense heat of the day, we resolved to ascend the
                     mountain, in hopes of being well rewarded for the trouble, by the discoveries
                     we should make. The pallisades at the top were particularly what we aimed at,
                     none of our people having hitherto any idea of them. <persName>Mr.
                        Patton</persName> and two other gentlemen were of the party. We soon crossed
                     the fine rivulet, at which our people watered, and followed the path on the
                     north side, seeing that the greatest number of inhabitants had come down from
                     thence. The ascent was at first not very fatiguing; several gentle hills formed
                     the fore-ground, which were almost level on the summits, and contained several
                     spacious plantations of bananas, in excellent order. These spots always opened
                     upon us unexpectedly, as the rest of our way lay through a close tufted wood of
                     fruit-trees, mixed with other sorts, extremely pleasant to us, on account of
                     the thick and cooling shade. Here and there we met with a solitary coco-nut
                     palm, which, far from lifting its royal head with becoming pride, was
                     out-topped and hid by meaner trees. In general these trees do not thrive well
                     upon mountains, preferring a low situation; insomuch that they abound upon the
                     coral-ledges, where they have scarcely soil sufficient to take root. A few
                     natives accompanied us, and some others met us with fruit, which they carried
                     to our trading place. In proportion as we ascended, we passed a number of their
                     houses, which were all built upon an elevated base of stones, and exactly upon
                     the plan of that which I have described, page 21. some of them seemed to be
                     very lately built, and looked very clean within; but we could not distinguish
                     the number of beds in them, of which the Spaniards make mention, and suspected
                     that they only meant different mats spread on the floor. The ground became much
                     steeper and rugged as we advanced. The rivulet frequently ran in a deep glen,
                     on the brink of which the path was rather dangerous. We were likewise obliged
                     to cross the water several times in our way; but always found the habitations
                     more numerous towards the top. We rested in several places, and were presented
                     with fruit and a little water by the natives, who resembled the Taheitians too
                     much in other respects, to be unlike them in hospitality. We never saw a single
                     deformed, nor even ill-proportioned man among them; all were strong, tall,
                     well-limbed, and active in the greatest degree. The nature of their country
                     contributes towards their activity; and the exercise which they are obliged to
                     take, probably preserves their elegance of form. Having advanced near three
                     miles from the sea side, we saw a young woman, who came out of a house before
                     us, and hastened up the hills as fast as we advanced. She was dressed in a
                     piece of cloth, made of the mulberry-tree's bark, and reaching to the knees.
                     Her features were like those of the Taheitee women, as far as we could discern
                     at the distance of thirty yards, which she took care to preserve between
                     herself and us, and her stature was middle sized. The natives made many signs
                     to us to return, and seemed to be very uneasy and much displeased at our
                     progress. <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and myself, desirous of preserving
                     the plants which we had collected, turned back, whilst <persName>Mr.
                        Patton</persName> and the rest went on about two miles farther, without
                     seeing any thing more than ourselves. We were the more easily persuaded to
                     desist from our purpose, as the heat of the day, our precarious state of
                     health, and the fatigue of the ascent, had entirely exhausted us, and as we saw
                     no prospect of reaching the summit. It appeared indeed at least three miles
                     distant from the place where we stopped, the greatest part of which seemed to
                     be infinitely steeper than what we had hitherto left behind us. The whole
                     ground, as far as we had gone, was covered with a rich mould, and contained
                     excellent plantations, and groves of various fruit-trees. The rocks under this
                     mould, which appeared chiefly near the banks of the rivulet, or on the broken
                     sides of the path, contained volcanic productions, or different kinds of lava,
                     some of which are full of white and greenish sherls. These islands are
                     therefore similar, in regard to their origin and the nature of their minerals,
                     to the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, the greater part of which seem
                     to have had burning mountains. About the houses we frequently saw hogs, and
                     fowls of a large sort, and now and then some rats. The trees were likewise
                     inhabited by several small birds, which resembled those of Taheitee and the
                     Society Islands; but they were not frequent, and in no great variety. The
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>, upon the whole, so much resemble the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, that they only seemed to want the
                     beautiful ambient plain, and the coral reef, which forms their excellent
                     harbours. No people in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, whom we had
                     hitherto met with, were so much like each other in form, customs, and language,
                     as the inhabitants of both these groups of islands. The principal difference
                     seemed to lie in the different degrees of cleanliness. The Taheitians, and
                     their next neighbours of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, are
                     perhaps the cleanliest people under the sun; they bathe two or three times a
                     day, and wash their hands and face before and after every meal. The inhabitants
                     of the Marquesas did not make their ablutions so frequently, and were besides
                     very slovenly in the manner of preparing their meals. Their principal food is
                     bread-fruit, which they roast over the fire, rarely baking it under ground;
                     when it is sufficiently done, they put it into a very dirty wooden trough, out
                     of which their hogs are fed at other times, and mix it up with water. This
                     mixture they scoop out with their hands. They also prepare fermented paste from
                     their bread-fruit, of which they make the same kind of acidulous pottage, which
                     is a great dainty with the Taheitian chiefs. Their bread-fruit is doubtless the
                     largest and most delicious which we ever tasted; and as we bought many of them
                     perfectly ripe, we found them as soft as a kind of custard, and in that state
                     too luscious to be eaten. Their food consists of the same variety of fruit and
                     roots which are common at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, except the apple
                        (<hi rend="italics">spondias</hi>). Their diet is chiefly vegetable;
                     though they have hogs and fowls, and catch abundance of fish at certain times.
                     Their drink is purely water, since coco-nuts are scarce, at least in the parts
                     which we visited. It is however to be suspected, that since they have the
                     pepper-root, and make use of it as a sign of peace, like the other islanders,
                     they may also prepare the same dainty beverage from it, with which the others
                     intoxicate themselves. They are peculiarly cleanly in regard to the <hi rend="italics">egesta</hi>. At the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>
                     the wanderer's eyes and nose are offended every morning, in the midst of a
                     path, with the natural effects of a sound digestion: but the natives of the
                     Marquesas are accustomed, after the manner of our cats, to bury the offensive
                     objects in the earth. At Taheitee, indeed, they depend on the friendly
                     assistance of rats, who greedily devour these odoriferous dainties; nay they
                     seemed to be convinced that their custom is the most proper in the world; for
                     their witty countryman, <persName>Tupaya</persName>
                     (<persName>Tupia</persName>), found fault with our want of delicacy, when he
                     saw a little building, appropriated to the rites of Cloacina, in every house at
                        <placeName>Batavia</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="564">We hastened down to the sea-side, in order to reach it before our boats
                     put off. When we came to the ship, we found it surrounded with canoes from
                     different parts, who brought several hogs and plenty of bananas for sale. The
                     alarm which our unfortunate act of violence had spread among the natives on the
                     first day, was now forgotten, and they came into the ship in great numbers,
                     conversing familiarly with our people, and expressing great satisfaction at
                     every thing which they saw. They had even so far laid aside all thoughts of
                     what had happened, that many began to pilfer again, as often as an opportunity
                     offered; however, if they were detected, they never failed to return very
                     quietly what they had taken. They frequently danced upon the decks, for the
                     diversion of our sailors; and in these dances we observed a striking
                     resemblance with those of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. It appeared likewise
                     that their music was nearly the same, especially as they had the same kind of
                     drums, of which <persName>Mahine</persName> purchased one. Their canoes were
                     likewise very similar to those of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but of not
                     great size. The heads commonly had some flat upright piece, on which the human
                     face was coarsely carved; and their sails were made of mats, triangular, and
                     very broad at the top. The paddles which they used were made of a heavy hard
                     wood, short, but sharp-pointed, and with a knob at the upper end.</p>

                  <p n="565">I staid on board in the afternoon, and ranged the collections which we
                     had hitherto made. In the evening, <persName>captain Cook</persName>, with some
                     officers, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>,
                     and my father, returned on board, having been out all the afternoon to visit
                     two coves to the south of our harbour. They found these places extremely open,
                     and exposed to the sea, and run great risk in landing and embarking, on account
                     of the prodigious surf on the beach. They met with abundance of refreshments
                     for their pains, and purchased several hogs. The natives were less reserved in
                     both places than in our harbour, and a considerable number of women appeared
                     among them, with whom the boat's crew soon became acquainted, since several of
                     them had as much complaisance as certain ladies at the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>,
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and <placeName>Easter
                     Island</placeName>. They were inferior to the men in stature, but well
                     proportioned, and some in feature approached the pleasing contour of the
                     Taheitian women of quality. Their general colour was the same as among the
                     common people of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, and only very few
                     were a little fairer than the rest. No punctures were observed on them, though
                     the other sex are so much accustomed to disfigure themselves with this
                     unsightly ornament. One of the handsomest consented to be drawn by
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, and an exact engraving, made from his
                     drawing, is inserted in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this
                     voyage. All the women wore pieces of cloth of the mulberry bark, of different
                     sorts; but the variety of these cloths was very trifling, compared with what it
                     is at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; and it seemed the quantity was likewise
                     inconsiderable, for, instead of being wrapped up in that number of pieces, so
                     common among the luxurious chiefs of that island, they only wore a single <hi rend="italics">ahòw</hi> or cloak, which covered them from the shoulders to
                     the knees. Round their necks they sometimes had a few loose strings, which were
                     not very ornamental; but our people took notice of no other finery among them.
                     After a short stay, our party prepared to return to their boat. One of the
                     sailors, having been inattentive to his duty, received several blows from the
                     captain. This trifling circumstance would not deserve a place in this
                     narrative, but for the observation, which the natives made upon it. As soon as
                     they saw it, they shewed it one to another, and exclaimed <hi rend="italics">tapè a-hai te tina</hi>, " he beats his brother." We were well convinced
                     from other instances that they knew the difference between the commander and
                     his people; but it appeared at the same time, that they looked upon us all as
                     brethren. The most natural inference in my mind is, that they only applied an
                     idea to us in this case, which really exists with regard to themselves. They
                     probably look on themselves as one family, of which the eldest born is the
                     chief or king. As their community is not yet arrived at that degree of
                     civilization which the Taheitians enjoy, a difference of rank does not take
                     place among them and their political constitution has not acquired a settled
                     monarchical form. The nature of their country, which requires a greater labour
                     and culture than <persName>Taheitee</persName>, is one great cause of this
                     difference; for since the means of subsistence are not so easily attained, the
                     population and the general luxury, cannot be so considerable, and the people
                     remain upon a level. Agreeable to this observation, we have found that no
                     particular honour or respect was paid to their <persName>king Honoo</persName>,
                     who visited us on the second day after our arrival. All his pre-eminence seemed
                     to consist in his dress, which was more complete than that of many of his
                     people, who by choice, or through indolence, go naked in a happy tropical
                     climate, where cloathing is not wanted.</p>

                  <p n="566">
                     <date>[Monday 11.]</date>The next morning the captain went to the same cove
                     again, but was much less successful than on the preceding evening. The natives,
                     who were not yet sufficiently acquainted with the excellence and durability of
                     our iron ware, refused to take it any longer, and coveted a number of articles,
                     which it was not in our power to part with. In the afternoon, therefore, we
                     weighed the anchor, and stood out of the harbour of <placeName>Madre de
                        Dios</placeName>, where we had lain something less than four days. We had
                     provided a considerable quantity of excellent water during that time, and
                     obtained a very salutary supply of refreshments from a friendly and
                     well-disposed people. Our acquisitions in natural history had been but
                     inconsiderable, from the great similarity of this island to
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the adjacent group, and on account of
                     our very short stay. The same causes had likewise prevented our forming a more
                     perfect acquaintance with the natives, who seemed to be well worth the
                     contemplation of philosophic travellers. We particularly regretted, that it had
                     not been in our power to examine those enclosures on the summits of the
                     mountain, which, as I still suspect, have some connection with their religious
                     rites. The Spaniards make mention of an oracle<ref target="#edn173">
                        <note xml:id="edn173" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 68. </note>
                     </ref>, which, from their accounts, seems to have been a burying place, like
                     those of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>; but we were likewise
                     unfortunate enough not to meet with any thing of this kind. The number of these
                     good people cannot be very considerable, on account of the small size of the
                     islands which they inhabit. <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Waitahoo</hi>
                     </placeName>, or <placeName>St. Christina</placeName>, is about eight leagues
                     in circuit; <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">O-Heeva-roa</hi>
                        <ref target="#edn174">
                           <note xml:id="edn174" anchored="true"> It is remarkable, that this name
                              occurs in the list of islands which <persName>Tupaya</persName> and
                              other natives of the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName> communicated
                              to their English friends. The people of the
                                 <placeName>Marquesas</placeName> who could not pronounce the<hi rend="italics"> r</hi>, always said O-Heeva-oa. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, or <placeName>Dominica</placeName>, fifteen leagues; <hi rend="italics">Onateyo</hi>, or <placeName>St. Pedro</placeName>, three
                     leagues; and <placeName>Magdalena</placeName>, which we only saw at a great
                     distance, five leagues, according to the Spanish account. The natives of these
                     different islands, we have great reason to believe, are all of one of the same
                     tribe, like the people of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>; we may at least affirm it with
                     certainty of those of <placeName>St. Christina</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Dominica</placeName>, having conversed and traded with both. The
                        <placeName>island of Dominica</placeName>, the largest of the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>, is so excessively steep and craggy in many
                     parts, that its inhabitants cannot be so numerous as those of <placeName>St.
                        Christina</placeName> in proportion to its size. Such spots as are fit for
                     culture are very populous in these islands; but as they are all very
                     mountainous, and have many inaccessible and barren rocks, it is to be doubted
                     whether the whole population of this group amounts to fifty thousand persons.
                     The Spaniards, who discovered them, found their manners gentle and inoffensive,
                     if we except a trifling difference at Magdalena, which probably arose from some
                     misunderstanding, or from the impetuous temper of those navigators. When we
                     arrived amongst them, we were received with every mark of friendship. They
                     presented us with roots of pepper, and branches of tamannoo (<hi rend="italics">calophyllum inophyllum</hi>, Linn.) in sign of peace; they
                     sold us their provisions; and though we killed one of their brethren, they
                     continued the same kind treatment, and permitted us to roam about their country
                     to a great distance without molestation. This behaviour, their manners, their
                     beautiful forms, their dresses, provisions, embarkations, and their language,
                     prove that they have the same origin with the Taheitians, and only differ from
                     them in a few respects, which the nature of their country required. The
                     advantages which the rich encircling plains bestow on the Taheitians and their
                     near neighbours, must drop in great measure at the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>. When they have cultivated as much ground
                     as will afford them the means of subsistence, there is none remaining for those
                     extensive plantations of mulberry-trees, which every where strike the eye at
                     Taheitee: indeed if they had the ground, they cannot afford to bestow the time
                     which this branch of culture requires. The great sources of Taheitian affluence
                     and luxury, their profusion of food, and their vast variety and quantity of
                     cloth, do not exist in the <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>: but the
                     inhabitants have a competence; they are all equal among themselves; they are
                     active, very healthy, and beautifully made; there is nothing which can make
                     them unhappy, by debarring them the means of obeying nature's voice. The
                     Taheitians have more comforts and conveniencies; they have perhaps superior
                     skill in the arts, and these things give them a greater relish for the
                     enjoyment of life; but to balance these advantages, they are no longer upon a
                     level; one part lives by the labours of the other, and diseases already wait
                     upon their excesses.</p>

                  <p n="567">
                     <q>
                        <l>_________Scilicet improbӕ</l>
                        <l>Crescunt divitiӕ, tamen</l>
                        <l>Curtӕnescio quid semper abest rei.</l>
                        <persName>Hor</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="568">The fruits and fresh meat which we obtained at the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>, may be considered as the first
                     restoratives after a cruize of four months and a half; during which we visited
                     the frozen zone to <geo select="lat">71 deg.</geo> and the torrid to <geo select="lat">9 1/2 deg. S.</geo> latitude. The small supply of potatoes at
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> was only a medicine, which
                     providentially stopped the rapid progress of various diseases on board, but
                     could not prevent their return, when we approached the torrid zone; whose
                     active heat set our stagnant and putrid blood into a state fermentation. The
                     wan look of all on board sufficiently proved, that our meeting with the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName> prevented a fatal and general attack of
                     noxious distempers, which would have found us an easy prey, and might, in a
                     short space of time, have made great havock in our ship. It must be allowed, at
                     the same time, that, as far as human art, and a humane beneficent disposition
                     will go, our worthy surgeon, <persName>Mr. Patton</persName> , took the best
                     precautions possible to preserve the healths of all on board, by suggesting the
                     proper methods to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and by watching over us
                     with unremitted assiduity. I will venture to affirm, that it is to him alone,
                     under Providence, that many of us are indebted for our lives; and that his
                     country owes him the preservation of those valuable and useful members of the
                     commonwealth, who were sent out on this dangerous expedition. Great
                     commendations are likewise due to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, who left
                     no experiment untried which was proposed to him, and which seemed to promise
                     success. The fate of the voyage depended upon the health of the crew, and he
                     had the more merit in taking his measures agreeably to this reflection, since,
                     however obvious it may seem, it has seldom guided other naval commanders.</p>

                  <p n="569">The short stay at the <placeName>Marquesas</placeName> had not been
                     sufficient to restore our patients to perfect health, and those who had the
                     bilious cholic were rather worse than before, having ventured to eat flatulent
                     fruits, which were extremely dangerous in a weak stomach. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> himself was far from being recovered; for though he had
                     experienced the bad effects of exposing himself to the burning rays of the sun
                     at <placeName>Easter Islands</placeName>, he had been active all the time, in
                     purchasing provisions, and superintending his people on shore. The effort which
                     I had made in climbing the mountain, had likewise been too violent for my
                     precarious state of health, and threw me into a dangerous bilious disorder,
                     which was the more mortifying, as it happened just at a time, when the scene
                     for my occupations was to open.</p>

                  <p n="570">We steered S. S. W. from <placeName>St. Christina</placeName>, and
                     afterwards changed the course to S. W. and W. 1/2°S. bringing to, every night,
                     for greater safety, as we were now very near the archipelago of low islands,
                     which had always been looked upon as a very intricate part of the
                        <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>. The Dutch navigators, in particular,
                     have given an unfavourable idea of it; for <persName>Schouten</persName> calls
                     it the <placeName>Bad Sea</placeName>, and <persName>Roggewein</persName> the
                        <placeName>Labyrinth</placeName>. The latter lost one of his ships, the
                     African Galley, on a low island, which, from that unfortunate accident, he
                     called <placeName>Pernicious Island</placeName>. This circumstance having
                     happened within the memory of man, is known among the <placeName>Society
                        Isles</placeName>; from whence we may conclude, that <placeName>Pernicious
                        Island</placeName> cannot be at a great distance from that group.</p>

                  <p n="571">
                     <date>[Sunday 17.]</date>On the 17th we discovered a low island, about
                        <time>ten o'clock in the morning</time>, and coming up with it about noon,
                     we were convinced, from the perspicuity of <persName>Mr. Byron's</persName>
                     description, that it was the eastermost of <placeName>King George's
                        Islands</placeName>. We were also confirmed in this belief towards night,
                     when we perceived the other island, which he comprehended under that name. The
                     island before us was extremely low and sandy, and formed an elliptic rocky
                     ledge, no less than six leagues in its longest diameter, from north to south.
                     Its latitude is <geo select="lat">14° 28' S.</geo> and its longitude <geo select="lon">144° 56' W.</geo> From space to space it was covered with
                     coco-nut trees in great numbers, which had a pleasing airy look. Various trees
                     and shrubberies sometimes concealed the stems of these palms to a great part of
                     their height, but their beautiful crown always towered above the rest. The
                     intervals between these green spots were so low, that the sea washed over them
                     into the lagoon within. The stillness of the water, confined by the ledge of
                     rocks, and its milky hue where it was shallow, contrasted very agreeably with
                     the ruffled surface of the berylline unfathomable ocean. We sailed close along
                     the western side of the island in the afternoon, and observed the rocks to be
                     tinged with a fine scarlet colour in many places, exactly as <persName>Mr.
                        Byron</persName> had found them. Several canoes sailing in the lagoon,
                     smokes rising up between the clumps of trees, and armed men of a dark hue
                     running along shore, were objects which greatly encreased the pleasure of the
                     prospect. We likewise perceived women retiring to a remote part of the ledge,
                     with bundles on their backs; an evident sign that they expected no good from
                     our appearance on their coast. Indeed, having had the misfortune to lose some
                     of their countrymen in opposing <persName>Mr. Byron's</persName> boats, and
                     having been expelled from their habitation during a whole day by his people,
                     who lived at discretion on their coco-nuts, it is not surprising that they
                     secured their small possessions against the invasion of people who looked so
                     like their enemies. Towards the S. W. end of the island we perceived the
                     passage into the lagoon, which <persName>Mr. Byron</persName> mentions, and
                     sent a boat to sound in its entrance, because at that time we were not yet
                     acquainted with his ill success in the same attempt. Our people found a bottom
                     of sharp corals, which made it impracticable for the ship to anchor. The
                     natives, who were assembled in arms on the north point of the passage, behaved
                     very quietly, and brought some coco-nuts, which were exchanged for nails. Upon
                     this information, another boat was hoisted out, and both sent to the shore
                     again, in order to trade with the natives, and to efface the sinister ideas
                     which they seemed to have conceived of us at first. My father, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, and myself were of the party; though I was extremely
                     ill of a bilious complaint. We landed without any opposition, and immediately
                     mixed among the natives, of whom there seemed to be about fifty or sixty. They
                     were all a set of stout men, of a dark brown, and had some punctures on the
                     breast, belly, and hands, chiefly in imitation of fishes, which furnish a great
                     part of their food. Their features were not disagreeable, but more mild than
                     those of the natives of all the high islands about them. They went perfectly
                     naked, having only a very small piece of cloth about their loins. Their women
                     did not come near us; but those whom we saw at a distance had the same colour
                     as the men, and their piece of cloth was enlarged to the size of a short apron.
                     The hair and beards were generally black and curling, but sometimes cut;
                     however I took notice of a single man, whose hair was quite yellowish at the
                     points. As soon as we landed they embraced us, touching our noses, after the
                     custom of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, and began to bring coco-nuts and
                     dogs for sale to the boats. Mahine, who was with us, purchased several dogs for
                     small nails, and some for ripe bananas, which he had brought from the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>. This fruit was much valued by the people
                     of the low island, who immediately knew it; it should seem therefore that they
                     have some acquaintance with the high islands, since bananas never grow upon
                     their barren coral-ledges. The dogs were not unlike those at the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, but had fine long hair of a white
                     colour. <persName>Mahine</persName> therefore was eager to purchase them,
                     because that very sort of hair is made use of in his country to adorn the
                     breast-plates of the warriors. We attempted to go directly into the grove,
                     under which the habitations were situated; but the natives opposing it, we
                     advanced along the point, picking various plants, and particularly a
                     scurvy-grass, which was common, and seemed to be very wholesome. The natives
                     shewed us that they bruised this plant, mixed it with shell-fish, and threw it
                     into the sea, wherever they perceive a shoal of fishes. This food intoxicates
                     them for some time, and thus they are caught on the surface, without any other
                     trouble than that of taking them up. The name which they give to this useful
                     plant is <hi rend="italics">e-Now</hi>. We likewise met with plenty of
                     purslane, resembling the common sort, which the natives call <hi rend="italics">e-Tooree</hi>. This plant likewise grows at the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, and is there dressed under-ground,
                     and eaten by the people. There were several sorts of trees on this island which
                     grow in the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>, and likewise some plants
                     which we had not seen before. The soil was extremely scanty; the foundation
                     consisted of coral, very little elevated above the surface of the water. On
                     this we found a coarse white sand, mixed with fragments of coral and shells,
                     and a very thin covering of mould. We advanced insensibly round the point, so
                     as to come behind the habitations, and discovered another point jutting out
                     into the lagoon, and forming a kind of bay, of which the shore was perfectly
                     covered with shrubberies and groves. Between the two points the water was very
                     shallow; and we perceived a great body of the natives crossing over from the
                     farthest point, and dragging their spears after them. We immediately retired
                     into the thicket, and passed by the huts, of which all the inhabitants were on
                     the beach. These huts were very small and low, covered with a kind of matting
                     of coco-nut branches. We only saw some dogs in them. Their boat-houses were
                     exactly of the same materials, only a little larger. The canoes in them were
                     very short, but stout, and pointed at both ends, and had sharp keel. As soon as
                     we came on the beach, we mixed among the natives, who were rather surprised to
                     see us come out of their village. We acquainted the lieutenant who commanded
                     our boats with the hostile appearances we had seen, upon which our people were
                     upon their guard, and prepared to reimbark. In the mean time
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> assisted us in conversing with the natives, who
                     told us that they had a chief or <hi rend="italics">areekee</hi>, and that
                     they called their island <placeName>Teoukea</placeName>. Their language, upon
                     the whole, approached very much to the Taheitian dialect, except that their
                     pronunciation was more coarse and guttural. The reinforcement now began to
                     appear in the bushes, armed with long clubs, or round short staves, and spears,
                     some fourteen feet, some nine feet long, pointed with the jagged tail of the
                     sting-ray. We therefore stepped into our boats, but the natives crouded about
                     them, and seemed in doubt whether they should detain us or not; however, as our
                     retreat had been too early for their scheme, they appeared contented with our
                     departure, and assisted us in pushing off the boats. Some threw small stones
                     into the water near us, and all seemed to glory in having, as it were,
                     frightened us off. They all talked a great deal, and very loud, after we were
                     gone, and at last seated themselves along the beach, in the shade of the trees.
                     We were no sooner on board, and had recited our adventures, than the captain
                     ordered four or five cannon-shot to be fired over their heads, and into the sea
                     before them, to shew what he could do. These balls, and especially the last,
                     terrified them so much, that they all ran away from this point with the
                     greatest precipitation. The number of coco-nuts which we obtained among them
                     did not amount to more than thirty, and the dogs were about five. Mr. Byron
                     found wells on this island, which, though they afforded but a small quantity of
                     fresh water, may be sufficient to supply the few inhabitants with this
                     necessary element. That navigator likewise met with burying-places of stone, in
                     the grove, which have a very great affinity with the Taheitian maraïs. The
                     offerings of animal and vegetable food, hung on the branches of trees around
                     these cemeteries, strengthen that similarity. There is reason to believe, from
                     this circumstance, as well as from the form, manners, and language of the
                     people, that they are very nearly allied to the happier inhabitants of the
                     mountainous isles in the neighbourhood. The great lagoons within their circular
                     islands are probably plentiful reservoirs of fish, from whence they are
                     supplied with constant food. The sandy barren part of their ledges is a fit
                     place upon which turtles may deposit their eggs; and it appears from the
                     fragments found by the Dolphin's people, that they know how to catch these
                     large creatures, whose nutritive flesh and shell must be a delicious treat to
                     them. The few plants which thrive about them are very useful, and furnish them
                     with the means of facilitating the capture of fish; some trees are so large
                     that their trunks may be used for canoes, and their branches for weapons and
                     tools. The coco-palm, which is the principal support of many nations on the
                     globe, is likewise of infinite service to them, and almost every part of it is
                     useful. The nuts which it bears, whilst they are green, contain from a pint to
                     a quart of limpid liquor, which has a very pleasant sweetness, joined to a
                     peculiar agreeable flavour; its coolness and integrant particles, doubtless,
                     make it a most delicious draught, powerful beyond comparison in quenching
                     thirst in a hot climate. When the nut grows older, the kernel forms, which is
                     at first like a rich cream, and afterwards grows firm and very oily, like an
                     almond, being extremely nutritious. The oil is frequently expressed, and
                     employed to anoint the hair and the whole body, at certain times. The hard
                     shell provides the natives with cups; and the fibrous coating round it affords
                     all kinds of cordage, which are strong, elastic, and not much impaired by
                     constant use. Several articles of Indian houshold furniture, and several sorts
                     of ornaments are made with it. The long feathered leaves or branches, which
                     spread from the top of the stem, are fit coverings for their houses; and when
                     plaited, make good baskets for provisions. The inner bark yields a kind of
                     cloth, sufficient for covering the body in a hot climate; and the stem itself,
                     when grown too old to bear, is at least fit to be used in the construction of a
                     hut, or may make the mast of a canoe. But besides fish and vegetable food, they
                     have also dogs, which live upon fish, and are reckoned excellent meat by the
                     natives of the Society Islands, to whom they are known. Thus Providence, in its
                     wise dispensations, made even these insignificant narrow ledges rich enough in
                     the productions of nature, to supply a whole race of men with the necessaries
                     of life. And here we cannot but express our admiration, that the minutest
                     agents are subservient to the purposes of the Almighty Creator. The coral is
                     known to be the fabrick of a little worm, which enlarges its house, in
                     proportion as its own bulk encreases. This little creature, which has scarce
                     sensation enough to distinguish it from a plant, builds up a rocky structure
                     from the bottom of a sea too deep to be measured by human art, till it reaches
                     the surface, and offers a firm basis for the residence of man! The number of
                     these low islands is very great, and we are far from being acquainted with them
                     all. In the whole extent of the <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>, between
                     the tropics, they are to be met with; however, they are remarkably frequent for
                     the space of ten or fifteen degrees to the eastward of the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>. <persName>Quiros</persName>,
                        <persName>Schouten</persName>, <persName>Roggewein</persName>,
                        <persName>Byron</persName>, <persName>Wallis</persName>,
                        <persName>Carteret</persName>, <persName>Bougainville</persName>, and
                        <persName>Cook</persName> have each met with new islands in their different
                     courses; and what is most remarkable, they have found them inhabited at the
                     distance of two hundred and forty leagues to the east of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. Nothing is more probable than that on every
                     new track other islands of this kind will still be met with, and particularly
                     between the <geo select="lat">16th and 17th degree of S.</geo> latitude, no
                     navigator having hitherto run down on that parallel towards the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>. It remains a subject worthy the
                     investigation of philosophers, to consider from what probable principles these
                     islands are so extremely numerous, and form so great an archipelago to windward
                     of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, whilst they are only scattered
                     at considerable distances beyond that group of mountainous islands? It is true,
                     there is another archipelago of coral ledges far to the westward; I mean the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>; but these are of a different
                     nature, and appear to be of a much older date; they occupy more space, and have
                     a greater quantity of soil, on which all the vegetable productions of the
                     higher lands may be raised.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 3: Another two coordinates written as '17th' and '16th'. -->

                  <p n="572">
                     <date>[Monday 18.]</date>After leaving <placeName>Teoukea</placeName> we stood
                     off and on during night, and then continued our course beyond the adjacent
                     island, which is comprehended under <persName>Mr. Byron's</persName>
                     appellation of <placeName>King George's Islands</placeName>. It resembled
                        <placeName>Teoukea</placeName> perfectly, and only seemed to be larger. Its
                     length from N. to S. appeared to be near eight leagues, and the breadth of its
                     lagoon five or six miles. It had numerous clumps of bushes and trees, and was
                     adorned with a great number of coco-nut palms.</p>

                  <p n="573">
                     <date>[Tuesday 19.]</date>The next morning, at <time>eight o'clock</time>, we
                     decried another island of the same nature, but which we suppose had not been
                     seen before. Towards noon another appeared to the westward, which we coasted
                     all the afternoon. It was about eight leagues long, and full of people, who ran
                     along the shore with very long spears in their hands. The lagoon within was
                     very spacious, and several canoes sailed about upon it. It appears to me, that
                     the most elevated and richest spots on the coral-ledges, are generally to
                     leeward, sheltered from the violence of the surf. In this sea, however, there
                     are seldom such violent storms, as might make these isles uncomfortable places
                     of abode; and when the weather is fair, it must be very pleasant sailing on the
                     smooth water in the lagoon, whilst the ocean without is disagreeably agitated.
                     A third new island was seen in the evening, which we left the next morning,
                     after we had lain to all night. This group <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     called <placeName>Palliser's Islands</placeName>; they are situated in about
                        <geo select="lat">15° 36' S.</geo> latitude, and <geo select="lon">146° 30'
                        W.</geo>longitude. The northernmost of these islands seem to be the
                        <placeName>Pernicious Islands</placeName> on which
                        <persName>Roggewein</persName> lost the African galley. As <persName>Mr.
                        Byron</persName> found a boat's rudder on <placeName>Teoukea</placeName>,
                     which is at a short distance from these isles, that circumstance serves to
                     confirm my supposition<ref target="#edn175">
                        <note xml:id="edn175" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. I. p. 102. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="574">We now steered to the S. W. being clear of the low-islands, and
                     continued standing on, the following night, towards the island of
                        <placeName>Taheite</placeName>. The general satisfaction which this course
                     gave to all on board can scarcely be described. Assured of the good disposition
                     of the inhabitants, we could look upon this island as our second home. Our sick
                     had some hopes of recovery, by having an opportunity of walking or resting in
                     its cool shades, and by using the light salubrious diet of the islanders. The
                     rest expected to acquire new strength and vigour, to enable them to encounter
                     those perils and hardships which were yet in reserve for them. The captain was
                     sure of meeting with that abundance of refreshments, which would enable him to
                     bring the voyage to a happy conclusion; the astronomer longed to fix an
                     observatory on shore, in order to determine the rate of going of the
                     time-keeper, which had not been settled since our departure from <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>; and we were not less desirous of returning to this
                     island, in order to complete, in some measure, a botanical collection, which
                     our short stay in the winter season had left but too imperfect.</p>

                  <p n="575">Our friend <persName>Mahine</persName> was perhaps more anxious than us
                     all to see <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, which he had never visited, though
                     many of his relations and friends resided there. As the natives of the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName> allow it the first rank in affluence
                     and power; and as we had frequently confirmed this testimony to him, his
                     curiosity was so much the greater. But he had other motives which prompted him
                     to wish himself there.</p>

                  <p n="576">He had collected a considerable number of curiosities, which he was
                     well convinced would give him weight among his countrymen; and he had acquired
                     such a variety of new ideas, and seen so many distant and unknown countries,
                     that he was persuaded he would attract and demand their attention. The prospect
                     of being courted by every body, and the idea of distinguishing himself by his
                     intimacy with us, by his acquaintance with our manners, and above all, by
                     making use of our fire arms for his diversion, gave him infinite pleasure. It
                     is not to be doubted, that it was inhanced by the hope of being serviceable to
                     all his shipmates, whom he loved with the sincerest affection, and by whom he
                     was generally esteemed in return.</p>

                  <p n="577">
                     <date>[Thursday 21.]</date>We discovered land about <time>ten o'clock the next
                        morning</time>, which in a few hours afterwards we knew to be part of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. We stood towards it all the day, but could
                     not reach it before it became dark, and were therefore obliged to stay out
                     another night. Every person on board gazed continually at this queen of
                     tropical islands; and though I was extremely ill of my bilious disorder, I
                     crawled on deck, and fixed my eyes with great eagerness upon it, as upon a
                     place where I hoped my pains would ease. Early in the morning I awoke, and was
                     as much surprised at the beauty of the prospect, as if I had never beheld it
                     before. It was indeed infinitely more beautiful at present, than it had been
                     eight months ago, owing to the difference of the season. The forests on the
                     mountains were all clad in fresh foliage, and gloried in many variegated hues;
                     and even the lower hills were not entirely destitute of pleasing sports, and
                     covered with herbage. But the plains, above all, shone forth in the greatest
                     luxuriance of colours, the brightest tints of verdure being profusely lavished
                     upon their fertile groves; in short, the whole called to our mind the
                     description of <persName>Calypso's</persName> enchanted island.</p>

                  <p n="578">With such a landscape before us, it cannot be doubted, but that our
                     eyes were continually fixed upon it. We had the farther pleasure to distinguish
                     every well-known spot as we sailed along. At last the beautiful scenery of
                        <placeName>Matavaï</placeName> opened to our view in all its grandeur; and
                     we directed our course into the bay, from whence we had sailed near eight
                     months before.</p>

               </div>
               <div n="6" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VI.<lb/>
                     An account of our second visit to the island of
                           <placeName>o-Taheitee</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="579">
                     <q>
                        <l>Ille terrarum mihi prӕter omnes</l>
                        <l>Angulus ridet</l> ___________<persName>Hor</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="580">
                     <date>[1774. April.][Friday 22.]</date>WE were no sooner discovered from the
                     shore, than several canoes put off to welcome us with presents of fruit. Among
                     the first who came on board, were two young men of some note, whom we
                     immediately invited into the cabin, where they were made acquainted with
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>. The politeness of the nation required that they
                     should make him a present of clothing; accordingly they took off their own
                     upper garments, which were of the best sort, and put them on him. He gratified
                     them in return with a sight of his rarities, and made them a present of a few
                     red feathers, which they valued very highly.</p>

                  <p n="581">At <time>eight o'clock in the morning</time> we dropped an anchor in
                        <placeName>Matavaï bay</placeName>, and were surrounded presently after by a
                     whole fleet of canoes, in which our old friends brought us fish, bread-fruit,
                     apples, coco-nuts, and bananas, all which they sold at low rates with the
                     greatest readiness. Their fish were mullets and bonitos, which they brought
                     perfectly alive in a kind of trough, fixed between the two hulls of a double
                     canoe, and provided with wicker-work at both ends, where the water freely
                     entered.</p>

                  <p n="582">Some tents were now established once more on <placeName>Point
                        Venus</placeName>, for the purpose of making astronomical observations, as
                     well as for the convenience of trading, wooding, and watering. The captain,
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, and my father went on shore, whilst I
                     remained on board so ill that I could scarcely crawl about. I amused myself,
                     however, in trading out of the cabin windows, and by that means collected a
                     number of curious fish, whilst they brought home nothing new from their
                     excursion. They had found the appearance of the whole country much improved;
                     the verdure luxuriant, many trees still loaded with fruit; the brooks full of
                     water, and a great number of new houses built. <persName>Mahine</persName>, who
                     went on shore with them, did not return at night, having found several of his
                     relations, and particularly a sister, named <persName>Teïòä</persName>, one of
                     the prettiest women on the whole island, who was married to a tall, well-made
                     man, called <persName>Noona</persName>, of the better class of people, and
                     native of <placeName>Raietea</placeName>. His house was very large, and near
                     our tents, being only about a hundred yards beyond the river.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> had laid aside his European cloaths before he
                     went on shore, and put on the elegant new dresses his friends had brought him,
                     with a degree of pleasure and eagerness, in which a natural predilection for
                     the manners of his country was very conspicuous. There are many instances among
                     different nations in an imperfect state of civilization, and likewise among
                     savages, that the force of habit produces this effect. It is no wonder that a
                     native of the <placeName>Society Isles</placeName> should prefer the happy
                     life, the wholesome diet, and the simple dress of his countrymen, to the
                     constant agitation, the nauseous food, and the coarse aukward garments of a set
                     of seafaring Europeans; when we have seen Eskimaux return with the utmost
                     ardour to their own desolate country, to greasy seal-skins, and rancid
                     train-oil, after having been entertained with substantial viands, the pomp of
                     dress, and the magnificence of <placeName>London</placeName>.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> had indeed found the happiness and pleasure
                     which he had expected. He was courted and looked upon as a prodigy by all the
                     Taheitians who saw him; he was feasted with their choicest meats, he received
                     several changes of dress, and revelled among the nymphs of the land. Sensible
                     to pleasure, like all the children of nature, but debarred the sight of his
                     pretty countrywomen for a long while, and perhaps tinctured with a double
                     relish for sensuality by his acquaintance with sailors, the facility of
                     gratifying every wish had endeared the country to him, and captivated him more
                     than any thing else. Besides these incitements, the ship, in a warm climate,
                     was but an uncomfortable abode at night. There he would have been pent up in a
                     narrow, close, ill-scented cabin; whereas on the shore he breathed a pure air,
                     deliciously perfumed by the exhalations of fragrant flowers, and was
                     continually fanned by a cooling gentle land-wind, exactly like young Zephyr,
                     who has such great obligation to the poets. Whatever the exalted degree of
                     pleasure might be, which fell to the share of the happy
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>, there were those on board who thought their
                     situation worthy of envy. Immediately on the first evening several women came
                     on board, and the excesses of the night were incredible. I have already
                     observed before, that the women who made a practice of this intercourse were
                     all of the common or lowest class, and I shall only add at present, that they
                     were the same who had been so liberal of their favours during our first stay at
                     this island. It is therefore obvious, that the prostitutes are only a
                     particular set among the rest, and that the custom is far from being so general
                     as hath been hitherto supposed, on the faith of other accounts. It would be
                     singularly absurd, if <persName>o-Maï</persName> were to report to his
                     countrymen, that chastity is not known in <placeName>England</placeName>,
                     because he did not find the ladies cruel in the Strand.</p>

                  <p n="583">
                     <date>[Saturday 23.]</date>The next day we had delightful weather, and a great
                     number of natives came on board. I ventured to go on shore to the tents in the
                     forenoon, but after walking about thirty yards, I was obliged to turn back and
                     sit down, in order to prevent my fainting away. The fine apples, which the
                     natives brought for sale, looked so extremely tempting, that I ventured to
                     transgress the positive order of the physician, and having regaled myself with
                     one of them, returned on board immediately. Not less than fifty large bonitos
                     had been purchased by our people during my short stay on shore, for spikenails
                     and knives; and besides these we had obtained such a quantity of fruit, that we
                     were enabled to serve it out in plentiful portions. At my return I found a
                     native in irons, who had already taken an opportunity to pilfer some nails in
                     the ship. Several of the better sort of people interceded very strongly, and
                     presented a number of bonitos, in order to procure his release. These were
                     accepted, and he was set at liberty, with a warning not to practise the same
                     tricks again.</p>

                  <p n="584">The women who had passed the first night on board returned in the
                     evening, and several others came with them; so that every sailor had his
                     partner. The night was very fair and moon-light, and being dedicated to
                        <persName>St. George</persName>, the tutelar saint of
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, the pleasures of Venus were joined to the
                     usual orgies of the festival.</p>

                  <p n="585">
                     <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and my father had been on shore the whole
                     day, and returned after sunset. They had walked across One-tree-hill into the
                     province of <placeName>Parre</placeName>. There they met with
                        <persName>Tootahah's</persName> mother, and <persName>Happaï</persName>, the
                     father of the king, to whom they made some small presents. They were likewise
                     accosted by a native there, who did them several good offices, and particularly
                     swam a considerable way in a pond where they had shot some wild-ducks. They
                     continued marching to the westward at least ten miles from <placeName>Point
                        Venus</placeName> to their new friend's dwelling. He prepared them a very
                     good meal of fruit, and baked them a rich and most delicious kind of pudding,
                     which is made of the kernel of coco-nuts and eddy-roots, scraped very small,
                     and mixed together. The trees about his hut furnished him with abundance of
                     fresh coco-nuts, of which he offered a great number to his guests. After dinner
                     he presented them with a perfumed dress of the best sort, and attended them
                     back again with a quantity of fruit, which remained untouched. He slept that
                     night on board, and went away the next morning highly delighted with several
                     knives, nails, and beads. As they returned they came near the king's house, and
                     there saw the two goats which <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> had
                     presented to him. The she-goat had brought two kids soon after our departure,
                     which were almost full-grown. The whole breed was in excellent order, extremely
                     sleek and well fed, and their hair as soft as silk. If the natives continue to
                     take the same care of them, they will shortly be able to turn them wild on the
                     mountains, where they would propagate prodigiously, and afford them a new and
                     most valuable article of food.</p>

                  <p n="586">
                     <date>[Sunday 24.]</date>The next morning I found myself greatly relieved by
                     the apple which I had eaten; and <persName>captain Cook</persName>, who still
                     had some remains of his bilious complaint, had felt the same effect from the
                     use of this excellent fruit. We continued therefore to eat it; and recommended
                     it to all the bilious patients. Our recovery in consequence was much quicker
                     than we had any reason to expect, and in a few days no other symptom than a
                     slight weakness remained.</p>

                  <p n="587">A number of chiefs came on board this day with large hogs, and canoes
                     loaded with fruit, all which were purchased for iron ware. Towards noon, the
                     king, <persName>O-Too</persName>, with his sister <persName>Towraï</persName>,
                     and his brother came on board, though it had rained just before. They brought a
                     present of several hogs to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and the king
                     seemed to have entirely laid aside that distrust, which had so strongly
                     characterised him before. They received some hatchets; but the principal thing
                     for which they enquired were red parrot's feathers, which they called <hi rend="italics">oora</hi>. The accounts of <persName>Mahine</persName>, and
                     the little presents of this precious plumage which he had made to his friends,
                     had given rise to this enquiry. We immediately searched all our collections
                     from the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, and found a considerable
                     quantity, which we did not think proper to show all at once.
                        <persName>O-Too</persName> and his sister were gratified with a sight of a
                     part of our riches, at which they seemed perfectly amazed and delighted. I have
                     already mentioned, when I spoke of purchasing these feathers, that some were
                     glued on a piece of cloth close to each other, and some were dispersed on stars
                     of coco-nut core wrought in fret-work. Our royal guests received a small
                     portion of the first sort, about the size of two fingers, beside a star or two,
                     with which, for the present, they went away contented, as it seemed, beyond
                     their warmest hopes. These red feathers, with which they ornament the dress of
                     their warriors, and which perhaps are made use of on some other solemn
                     occasions, are valued at an incredible rate in this island, and clearly prove
                     the existence of a great degree of luxury among the natives.</p>

                  <p n="588">
                     <date>[Monday 25.]</date>On the next day we had a number of visits from
                     different chiefs, amongst whom was our friend <persName>Potatow</persName>his
                     wife <persName>Whainee-ow</persName>, and his former wife
                        <persName>Polatehera</persName>, whom the fame of our great riches of red
                     feathers had reached. They brought with them numbers of hogs, many of which
                     were exchanged with the utmost avidity for small pieces of cloth covered with
                     red feathers. The difference between the present opulence of these islanders,
                     and their situation eight months before, was very astonishing to us. It was
                     with the utmost difficulty that we had been able to purchase a few hogs during
                     our first stay, having been obliged to look upon it as a great favour, when the
                     king or chief parted with one of these animals. At present our decks were so
                     crouded with them, that we were obliged to make a hog-stye on shore. We
                     concluded, therefore, that they were now entirely recovered from the blow which
                     they had received in their late unfortunate war with the lesser peninsula, and
                     of which they still felt the bad effects at our visit in August 1773. In the
                     morning we had continual hard showers, and such violent thunder and lightning,
                     that, for the sake of greater safety, a copper chain was fixed to the
                     maintop-gallant-mast-head. Just as a sailor was clearing it of the shrouds, and
                     had thrown the end over board, a terrible flash of lightning appeared exactly
                     over the ship, and the flame was seen to run down along the whole length of the
                     chain. A tremendous thunder-clap instantaneously followed, which shook the
                     whole ship, to the no small surprize of both the Europeans and Taheitians on
                     board. However we happily suffered not the least damage from this explosion.
                     This circumstance confirms the great use of the electrical chain, which had
                     been so clearly proved at <placeName>Batavia</placeName>, while
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> lay there in the Endeavour<ref target="#edn176">
                        <note xml:id="edn176" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawksworth's</persName>
                           Compilation, vol. III. p. 712. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="589">The rain did not abate till the evening, when the showers became
                     intermittent, and entirely ceased the next morning. <date>[Tuesday
                     26.]</date>The first intelligence which we received from our tents was, that
                     several waistcoats and blankets belonging to the captain had been stolen by the
                     natives, from the man who was washing them. The captain embarked therefore
                     about <time>ten o'clock</time>, in order to visit <persName>O-Too</persName>,
                     by whose help he hoped to recover his bed-cloaths. I was now so well recovered,
                     that I ventured to accompany him in the boat, with my father, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, and some others. When we approached
                        <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>, we beheld one of the most magnificent sights
                     which it is possible to be entertained with in the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>. This was a very numerous sleet of great war-canoes, lying
                     arranged along the shore, completely fitted out, and manned with rowers and
                     warriors, dressed in their robes, targets, and towering helmets. The shores
                     were lined with crouds of people, and a kind of solemn silence prevailed among
                     them. We landed, and were met by <persName>Tee</persName>, one of the king's
                     uncles, who was going to lead <persName>captain Cook</persName> into the
                     country, when the commander in chief of the fleet stepped on shore and met
                     them. At sight of him the common people exclaimed, "
                        <persName>Towhah</persName> is coming," and made room for him with a degree
                     of veneration which surprised us. The chief advanced to <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, and taking him by the hand, called him his friend, and
                     desired him to step into his canoe. It appeared to us at that time that
                        <persName>Tee</persName> was uneasy, and did not approve of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> going with <persName>Towhah</persName>;
                     therefore, when we were just abreast of his canoe, which was one of the
                     largest, the captain stopped short, and refused to go on board.
                        <persName>Towhah</persName> left him very coolly, and, to all appearance
                     hurt at the refusal, stepped into one of the canoes. We then walked down along
                     the whole range of vessels, whose prows were turned to the shore. All our
                     former ideas of the power and affluence of this island were so greatly
                     surpassed by this magnificent scene, that we were perfectly left in admiration.
                     We counted no less than one hundred and fifty-nine great double war-canoes,
                     from fifty to ninety feet long betwixt stem and stern. When we consider the
                     imperfect tools which these people are possessed of, we can never sufficiently
                     admire the patience and labour with which they have cut down huge trees, dubbed
                     the plank, made them perfectly smooth, and at last brought these unweildy
                     vessels to the great degree of perfection in which we saw them. A hatchet, or,
                     properly, an adze of stone, a chissel, and a piece of coral, are their tools,
                     to which they only add the rough skin of a ray, when they smooth or polish
                     their timber. All these canoes are double, that is, two joined together, side
                     by side, by fifteen or eighteen strong transverse timbers, which sometimes
                     project a great way beyond both the hulls, being from twelve to four and twenty
                     feet in length, and about three feet and a half asunder. When they are so long,
                     they make a platform, fifty, sixty, or seventy feet in length. On the outside
                     of each canoe there are, in that case, two or three longitudinal spars, and
                     between the two connected canoes one spar is fixed to the transverse beams. The
                     heads and sterns were raised several feet out of the water, particularly the
                     latter, which stood up like long beaks, sometimes near twenty feet high, and
                     were cut into various shapes. A white piece of cloth was commonly fixed between
                     the two beaks of each double canoe, in lieu of an ensign, and the wind swelled
                     it out like a sail. Some had likewise a striped cloth, with various red
                     chequers, which, as we afterwards learned, were the marks of the divisions
                     under the different commanders. At the head there was a tall pillar of
                     carved-work, on the top of which stood the figure of a man, or rather of an
                     urchin, whose face was commonly shaded by a board like a bonnet, and sometimes
                     painted red with ochre. These pillars were generally covered with bunches of
                     black feathers, and long streamers of feathers hung from them. The gunwale of
                     the canoes was commonly two or three feet above the water, but not always
                     formed in the same manner; for some had flat bottoms, and sides nearly
                     perpendicular upon them, whilst others were bow-sided, with a sharp keel, like
                     the section drawn in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> first voyage<ref target="#edn177">
                        <note xml:id="edn177" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 225. </note>
                     </ref>. A fighting stage was erected towards the head of the boat, and rested
                     on pillars from four to six feet high, generally ornamented with carving. This
                     stage extended beyond the whole breadth of the double canoe, and was from
                     twenty to twenty-four feet long, and about eight or ten feet wide. The rowers
                     sat in the canoe, or under the fighting stage on the platform, which consisted
                     of the transverse beams and longitudinal spars; so that wherever these crossed,
                     there was room for one man in the compartment. Those which had eighteen beams,
                     and three longitudinal spars on each side, besides one longitudinal spar
                     between the two canoes, had consequently no less than a hundred and forty-four
                     rowers, besides eight men to steer them, four of whom were placed in each
                     stern. This however was not the case with the greatest part of the canoes here
                     assembled, which had no projecting platforms, and where the rowers or paddlers
                     sat in the hulls of the canoe. The warriors were stationed on the sighting
                     stage, to the number of fifteen or twenty. Their dress was the most singular,
                     and at the same time the most thewy sight in the whole fleet. They had three
                     large and ample pieces of cloth, with a hole in the middle, put on one above
                     another. The undermost and largest was white, the next red, and the uppermost
                     and shortest brown. Their targets or breast-plates were made of wicker-work,
                     covered with feathers and shark's teeth, and hardly any of the warriors were
                     without them. On the contrary, those who wore helmets, were few in number.
                     These helmets were of an enormous size, being near five feet high. They
                     consisted of a long cylindrical basket of wicker-work, of which the foremost
                     half was hid by a semicylinder of a closer texture, which became broader
                     towards the top, and there separated from the basket, so as to come forwards in
                     a curve. This frontlet, of the length of four feet, was closely covered with
                     the glossy bluish green feathers of a sort of pigeon, and with an elegant
                     border of white plumes. A prodigious number of the long tail feathers of tropic
                     birds diverged from its edges, in a radiant line, resembling that glory of
                     light with which our painters commonly ornament the heads of angels and saints.
                     A large turban of cloth was required for this huge unweildy machine to rest
                     upon; but as it is intended merely to strike the beholder with admiration, and
                     can be of no service, the warriors soon took it off, and placed it on the
                     platform near them. The principal commanders were moreover distinguished by
                     long round tails, made of green and yellow feathers, which hung down on the
                     back, and put us in mind of the Turkish bashas. <persName>Towhah</persName>,
                     their admiral, wore five of them, to the ends of which several strings of
                     coco-nut core were added, with a few red feathers affixed to them. He had no
                     helmet on, but wore a fine turban, which sat very gracefully upon his head. He
                     was a man seemingly near sixty years of age, but extremely vigorous, tall, and
                     of a very engaging noble countenance.</p>

                  <p n="590">Having reached our boat again, we rowed along under the sterns of the
                     canoes to the end of the file. In each canoe we took notice of vast bundles of
                     spears, and long clubs or battle-axes, placed upright against the platform; and
                     every warrior had either a club or spear in his hand. Vast heaps of large
                     stones were likewise piled up in every canoe, being their only missile weapons.
                     Besides the vessels of war, which we found to consist of one hundred and
                     fifty-nine double canoes, we counted seventy smaller canoes without the ranks,
                     most of which were double likewise, with a roof on the stern, intended for the
                     reception of the chiefs at night, and as victuallers to the fleet. A few of
                     them were seen, on which banana-leaves were very conspicuous; and these the
                     natives told us were to receive the killed, and they called them <hi rend="italics">e-vaa no t'Eatua</hi>, " the canoes of the Divinity." The
                     immense number of people thus assembled together was, in fact, more surprising
                     than the splendor of the whole shew. Upon a very moderate calculation, there
                     could not be less than fifteen hundred warriors, and four thousand paddlers,
                     besides those who were in the provision boats, and the prodigious crouds on the
                     shore.</p>

                  <p n="591">We were at a loss to know the meaning of this armament, nor could we
                     obtain any information till we came back to our ship. The king having left
                        <placeName>O-Parre</placeName> and gone into the district of
                        <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>, we returned on board about noon. There we
                     found many chiefs, and among the rest <persName>Potatow</persName>, who dined
                     with us, and informed us, that the whole armament was intended against the
                        <placeName>island of Eimeo</placeName>, of which the chief, a vassal of
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>, had revolted. We learnt at the same time, to our
                     greater surprize, that the fleet which we had seen was only the naval force of
                     the single district of <placeName>Atahooroo</placeName>, and that all the other
                     districts could furnish their quota of vessels in proportion to their size.
                     This account opened our eyes, in regard to the population of the island, and
                     convinced us in a few moments, that it was much more considerable than we had
                     hitherto supposed. The result of a most moderate computation gave us one
                     hundred and twenty thousand persons in the two peninsulas of
                     <placeName>Taheitee</placeName><ref target="#edn178">
                           <note xml:id="edn178" anchored="true"> This calculation was afterwards
                              confirmed to be very low, when we saw the fleet of the smallest
                              district, which amounted to forty-four war-canoes, besides twenty or
                              five and twenty of a smaller size. </note>
                        </ref>
                     .</p>

                  <p n="592">The number of districts in both peninsulas amounts to forty-three; we
                     assumed at a medium, that each could equip only twenty war-canoes, and we
                     supposed each of these to be manned only with thirty-five men. The sum of men
                     employed in the fleet, exclusive of the attending boats, would then be no less
                     than thirty thousand; and these we assume as the fourth part of the whole
                     nation. What makes this computation still more moderate is, that we suppose
                     these thirty thousand to be the whole number of persons capable of bearing
                     arms, or fit for service; and that the common proportion of these men, to the
                     rest of the people, is much smaller than one fourth, in all the countries of
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="593">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> returned to <placeName>O-Parre</placeName>
                     with us in the afternoon. The whole fleet had already left that district, and
                     the canoes were dispersed; but we found <persName>O-Too</persName>, and were
                     extremely well received. He conducted us to several of his houses, through a
                     country which perfectly resembled a garden; shady fruit-trees, shrubberies with
                     odoriferous flowers, and rivulets enlarged into limpid sheets of water,
                     continually varied before the eye. The houses were all kept in the best order;
                     some were surrounded with walls of reeds, but others were open like the usual
                     dwellings of the people. We passed several hours in his company, with some of
                     his relations, and principal attendants, who took every method to express their
                     friendship towards us. The conversation, though not yet very coherent, was
                     however extremely lively; and the women in particular laughed and chatted with
                     the greatest good humour. We often found them diverting each other by playing
                     upon words; and sometimes we were highly entertained with a real witty stroke,
                     or a humorous sally. It was near sunset when we departed, after sharing some
                     part of the happiness which seems to be so natural to this favoured island. The
                     calm contented state of the natives; their simple way of life; the beauty of
                     the landscape; the excellence of the climate; the abundance, salubrity, and
                     delicious taste of its fruits, were altogether enchanting, and filled the heart
                     with rapture. Surely the satisfaction which we naturally feel in the happiness
                     of others, is one of the most delightful sensations with which the human soul
                     is blessed.</p>

                  <p n="594">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 27.]</date>The next morning the captain and my father paid
                     another visit to <persName>O-Too</persName> at <placeName>Parre</placeName>,
                     and found there the admiral of the fleet, <persName>Towhah</persName>, to whom
                     they were introduced by <persName>O-Too</persName> himself. They all came on
                     board before noon, and visited every part of the ship above and below decks,
                     particularly to gratify the curiosity of <persName>Towhah</persName> who had
                     never seen a ship before in his life. He paid more attention to the multitude
                     of new objects on board, to the strength and size of the timbers, masts, and
                     ropes, than any Taheitian we had ever seen, and found our tackle so exceedingly
                     superior to that which is usual in his country, that he expressed a wish to
                     possess several articles, especially cables and anchors. He was now dressed
                     like the rest of the people in this happy island, and naked to the waist, being
                     in the king's presence. His appearance was so much altered from what it had
                     been the day before, that I had some difficulty to recollect him. He appeared
                     now very lusty, and had a most portly paunch, which it was impossible to
                     discern under the long spacious robes of war. His hair was of a fine silvery
                     grey, and his countenance was the most engaging and truly good-natured which I
                     ever beheld in these islands. The king and he staid and dined with us this day,
                     eating with a very hearty appetite of all that was set before them.
                        <persName>O-Too</persName> had entirely lost his uneasy, distrustful air; he
                     seemed to be at home, and took a great pleasure in instructing Towhah in our
                     manners. He taught him to make use of the knife and fork, to eat salt to his
                     meat, and to drink wine. He himself did not refuse to drink a glass of this
                     generous liquor, and joked with <persName>Towhah</persName> upon its red
                     colour, telling him it was blood. The honest admiral having tasted our grog,
                     which is a mixture of brandy and water, desired to taste of the brandy by
                     itself, which he called <hi rend="italics">e vaï no Bretannee</hi>, British
                     water, and drank off a small glass full, without making a wry face. Both he and
                     his Taheitian majesty were extremely chearful and happy, and appeared to like
                     our way of living, and our cookery of their own excellent provisions. They told
                     us that their fleet was intended to reduce the rebellious people of
                        <placeName>Eimeo</placeName> (or <placeName>York Island</placeName>) and
                     their chief, <persName>Te-aree-Tabonooee</persName>, to obedience, adding, that
                     they would make the attack in a district of that island, called
                        <placeName>Morea</placeName>. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> proposed, in
                     jest, to accompany them with his ship, and to fire upon the enemies of
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>, which at first they smiled at, and approved of;
                     but presently after they talked among themselves, and then changing their tone,
                     said they could not make use of his assistance, being resolved to go out
                     against <placeName>Eimeo</placeName> the fifth day after our departure.
                     Whatever might be the real motive of this resolution, it certainly was the most
                     politic in their situation. We were too powerful an ally, not to be formidable
                     even to those for whom we should fight; and waving that consideration, it was
                     making the people of <placeName>Eimeo</placeName> too important, to bring our
                     invincible four-pounders against them; for to these only would the victory be
                     ascribed, even by the vanquished; and as soon as we should have left the
                     island, the conquerors would lose much of that importance which they had in the
                     eyes of their enemies before the battle. Such a degree of contempt might prove
                     fatal to them in the end.</p>

                  <p n="595">
                     <date>[Thursday 28.]</date>My father, with <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, a
                     sailor and a marine, went on shore the next day in the afternoon, with an
                     intent to go up to the summit of the mountains. We had a great number of canoes
                     about us all this time, and in them there were always some chiefs of different
                     districts, who brought on board their hogs, and their most valuable
                     possessions, in order to exchange them for red feathers, on which they placed
                     an extravagant value. These feathers produced a great revolution in the
                     connections which the women had formed with our sailors; and happy was he who
                     had laid in a sufficient stock of this useful and precious merchandize at the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>; the women crouded about him, and he
                     had the choice of the fairest. That our red feathers had infused a general and
                     irresistible longing into the minds of all the people, will appear from the
                     following circumstance. I have observed, in the former part of this narrative,
                     that the women of the families of chiefs never admitted the visits of
                     Europeans; and also that whatever liberties some unmarried girls might with
                     impunity allow themselves, the married state had always been held sacred and
                     unspotted at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. But such was the force of the
                     temptation, that a chief actually offered his wife to <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, and the lady, by her husband's order, attempted to
                     captivate him, by an artful display of all her charms, seemingly in such a
                     careless manner, as many a woman would be at a loss to imitate. I was sorry,
                     for the sake of human nature, that this proposal came from a man, whose general
                     character was in other respects very fair. It was <persName>Potatow</persName>
                     who could descend to this meanness, from the high spirit of grandeur which he
                     had formerly shewn. We expressed great indignation at his conduct, and rebuked
                     him for his frailty. It was very fortunate for us, that a considerable quantity
                     of this red plumage had been disposed of by our sailors at the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>, in exchange for artificial curiosities,
                     before they knew the high value which it bore at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. Had all these riches been brought to this
                     island, the price of provisions would in all likelihood have been raised to
                     such an unreasonable height, that we might have fared even worse than during
                     our first visit. A single little feather was a valuable present, much superior
                     to a bead or a nail, and a very small bit of cloth, closely covered with them,
                     produced such extatic joy in him who received it, as we might suppose in an
                     European, who should unexpectedly find the diamond of the Great Mogol.
                        <persName>Potatow</persName> brought on board his monstrous helmet of war of
                     five feet high, and sold it for red feathers; some others followed his example,
                     and targets without number were bought by almost every sailor. But much more
                     surprising than this, was their offering for sale those curious and singular
                     mourning dresses, which are mentioned in <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     first voyage<ref target="#edn179">
                        <note xml:id="edn179" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawksworth's</persName>
                           Compilation, vol. II. p. 143. 146. 236. also the plate, No. 5. </note>
                     </ref>, and which they would not part with on any account at that time. These
                     dresses being made of the rarest productions of their island, and of the
                     surrounding sea, and being wrought with the greatest care and ingenuity, must
                     of course bear a very considerable value among them. A number of complete
                     mourning dresses, not less than ten, were purchased by different persons on
                     board, and brought to <placeName>England</placeName>. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> has given one to the British Museum, and my father has had
                     the honour of presenting another to the University of Oxford, now deposited in
                     the Ashmolean Museum. This remarkable dress consists of a thin flat board, of a
                     semicircular form, about two feet long, and four or five inches broad. Upon
                     these are fixed four or five chosen mother of pearl shells, by means of strings
                     of coco-nut core passed through several holes which are pierced in the wood,
                     and in the edges of the shells. A larger shell of the same kind, fringed with
                     bluish-green pigeon's feathers, is fixed to each end of this board, of which
                     the concave margin is placed upwards. Upon the middle of the concave margin
                     there are two shells, which together form nearly a circle about six inches in
                     diameter; and on the top of these a very large piece of mother of pearl,
                     commonly with its purple coating on, is placed upright. It is of an oblong
                     shape, enlarging rather towards the upper end, and its height is nine or ten
                     inches. A great number of long white feathers, from the tropic bird's tail,
                     form a radiant circle round it. From the convex margin of the board hangs down
                     a tissue of small pieces of mother of pearl, in size and shape something like
                     an apron. This consists of ten or fifteen rows of pieces about an inch and a
                     half long, and one-tenth of an inch in breadth, each piece being perforated at
                     both ends, in order to be fixed to the other rows. These rows are made
                     perfectly streight and parallel to each other; therefore the uppermost are
                     divided, and extremely short, on account of the semicircular shape of the
                     board. The lower rows are likewise commonly narrower, and from the ends of each
                     row a string hangs down, ornamented with <hi rend="italics">opercula</hi> of
                     shells, and sometimes with European beads. A tassel or round tail of green and
                     yellow feathers hangs down from the upper ends of the board on the side of the
                     apron, which is the most shewy part of the whole dress. A strong rope is fixed
                     on each side of that pair of shells, which rests immediately upon the concave
                     margin of the board, and this string is tied about the head of the person who
                     wears the dress. The whole piece hangs down perpendicularly before him, the
                     apron hides his breast and stomach, the board covers his neck and shoulders,
                     and the first pair of shells comes before his face. In one of these shells
                     there is a small hole cut out, through which the wearer must look in order to
                     find his way. The uppermost shell, and the long feathers round it, extend at
                     least two feet beyond the natural height of the man. The other parts of his
                     dress are not less remarkable. He puts on a mat or a piece of cloth with a hole
                     in the middle, like the usual dress of the country. Over this he places another
                     of the same sort, but of which the fore part hangs down almost to the feet, and
                     is beset with many rows of buttons made of pieces of coco-nut shell. A belt,
                     consisting of a twisted rope of brown and white cloth, is tied over this dress
                     round the waist; a large cloak of net-work, closely beset with great bluish
                     feathers, covers the whole back; and a turban of brown and yellow cloth, bound
                     with a great quantity of small twisted ropes of brown and white cloth, is
                     placed on the head. An ample hood of alternate parallel stripes of brown,
                     yellow, and white cloth descends from the turban to cover the neck and
                     shoulders, in order that as little as possible of the human figure may appear.
                     Commonly the nearest relation of the deceased wears this whimsical dress, and
                     carries in one hand a pair of large pearl-shells, which are clapped or beaten
                     together continually, and in the other a stick, armed with shark's teeth, with
                     which he wounds any of the natives who chance to come near him<ref target="#edn180">
                        <note xml:id="edn180" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 236. </note>
                     </ref>. What may have been the origin of this singular custom we cannot
                     determine; but to me it seems to be calculated to inspire horror; and the
                     fantastical dress in which it is performed, has so much of that strange and
                     terrifying shape which our nurses attribute to ghosts and goblins, that I am
                     almost tempted to believe some ridiculous superstition lurks under this funeral
                     rite. The spirit of the deceased, exacting a tribute of grief and tears from
                     its survivors, and therefore wounding them with the shark's teeth, would not be
                     an idea too extravagant for men to have adopted. Whatever it might be, we never
                     could obtain any intelligence from the natives on the subject; they gave us an
                     account of the ceremony, and of the dress, telling us the names of every part;
                     but it was impossible to make ourselves understood, as soon as we wanted to
                     know why it was so? The most singular fact with which
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> acquaint us, relative to the mourning rite, was,
                     that at the death of a man, a woman performs the ceremony; but when a woman
                     dies, a man must go the rounds with the scare-crow dress. In England the
                     curiosity has been so great, that a Taheitian mourning-dress, which a sailor
                     brought over, has been sold for five and twenty guineas. But in this respect
                     the Taheitians are no way inferior to civilized nations. In consequence of
                        <persName>Mahine's</persName> relation to his adventures, the chiefs
                     continually importuned us to give them curiosities from
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, <placeName>&gt;Waïhoo</placeName>, and
                           <placeName>Waitahoo<ref target="#edn181">
                           <note xml:id="edn181" anchored="true">
                              <placeName>Amsterdam Island</placeName>, <placeName>Easter
                                 Island</placeName>, and <placeName>St. Christina</placeName>.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, instead of English goods, in exchange for their provisions and
                     curiosities. The feathered head-dresses of the two last islands, and the
                     baskets, clubs, and painted cloth of the former, pleased them excessively; nay,
                     they were eager to possess the mats of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>,
                     though in general they perfectly resembled their own manufacture. Our sailors
                     therefore frequently took advantage of their disposition, and gave them the
                     same mats under another name, which they had formerly purchased in their own
                     island, or in the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>. Thus there is a
                     similarity in the general inclinations of human nature, and particularly in the
                     desires of all nations who are not in a state of savage barbarism, but have the
                     advantage of civilization. The resemblance will appear still more perfect, if
                     we relate with what eagerness the Taheitians listened to the accounts of their
                     youthful traveller. They always attended him in crouds, their oldest men
                     esteemed him highly, and the principal people of the island, not excepting the
                     royal family, courted his company. Besides the pleasure of hearing him, they
                     had likewise that of obtaining a number of valuable presents from him, which
                     cost them only a few kind expressions. His time was so agreeably taken up on
                     shore, as he found new friends in every hut, that he seldom came on board,
                     unless to fetch a new set of presents, or to shew the ship to his acquaintance,
                     and to introduce them to <persName>captain Cook</persName> and his shipmates.
                     His stories, however, were too wonderful sometimes to find ready belief among
                     his audience, who now and then applied to us for a confirmation of his account.
                     The rain converted into stone, the solid white rocks and mountains which we
                     melted into fresh water, and the perpetual day of the antarctic circle, were
                     articles which even ourselves could not persuade them to credit. The account of
                     canibals in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> was more easily believed, though
                     it filled them with horror. He brought on board a company of the natives during
                     my father's absence on the hills, who were come on purpose to see the head of
                     the <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> boy, which <persName>Mr.
                        Pickersgill</persName> had preserved in spirits. He readily gratified them
                     with the sight, and their report brought great numbers to see it. I was present
                     when it was shewn, and it struck me to hear them give it a peculiar name in
                     their language. They unanimously called it <hi rend="italics">te
                     Tae-aï</hi>, which appears to be equivalent to " man eater." The result of my
                     enquiries among many of the chiefs and most intelligent people, on this
                     extraordinary circumstance, was the following. They said they had a traditional
                     report among them, that in an indefinite but very remote period of time, there
                     were man-eaters upon their island, who made great havock among the inhabitants,
                     and were a very strong robust people; but that this race had long since been
                     entirely extinct. The same account was confirmed to me in the strongest terms,
                     on my return to <placeName>England</placeName>, by <persName>o-Maï</persName>,
                     with whom I happened to converse upon the subject. The influence of this fact
                     upon the ancient history of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> is very striking;
                     but shall we conclude, that a set of canibals have by some accident made a
                     descent upon the island, and committed depredations upon the indigenous people?
                     or is it not rather evident, that the original state of the whole nation is
                     concealed in this tradition, and that all the Taheitians were anthropophagi,
                     before they arrived at that state of civilization, which the excellence of the
                     country and climate, and the profusion of vegetables and animal food, has
                     introduced? It is a fact no less surprising than certain, that the more we
                     examine the history of almost every nation, the more we find this custom
                     prevalent in the first periods of their existence. Traces of anthropophagy are
                     still extant at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> saw fifteen recent jaw-bones hanging in one house<ref target="#edn182">
                        <note xml:id="edn182" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 161. </note>
                     </ref> . Might they not be preserved as trophies taken from their enemies?</p>

                  <p n="596">
                     <date>[Friday 29.]</date>The next morning one of the natives, who had attempted
                     to steal a water-cask from our tents, was apprehended and confined.
                        <persName>O-Too</persName> and <persName>Towhah</persName> coming on board
                     somewhat early, being made acquainted with his offence, accompanied
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> on shore to see him punished. He was tied
                     to a pole, and, with their consent, received two dozen of very severe lashes. A
                     great croud of natives, who were spectators of this act, were so much
                     terrified, that they began to run off; but <persName>Towhah</persName> called
                     them back, and, in a speech which lasted about four or five minutes, pointed
                     out the equity of our conduct, and the necessity of punishing thefts. He
                     represented, that though our power was infinitely superior to theirs, yet we
                     neither stole any thing, nor used any violence, but honestly paid a proper
                     price for every thing we received, and frequently gave presents where we
                     expected no return. That we had shown ourselves their best friends, and that to
                     steal from friends was a shameful action, which highly deserved to be punished.
                     The good sense and singleness of heart of this excellent old man, endeared him
                     to us, and his harangue carried persuasion among his audience. In the afternoon
                        <persName>Towhah</persName> came along side with his wife, and elderly
                     woman, who seemed to have the same excellent character as her husband. They
                     were in a large double canoe, with a roof built over the stern, and had eight
                     rowers. The old couple invited <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> and myself to
                     come into the canoe, and we accompanied them to <placeName>Parre</placeName>.
                        <persName>Towhah</persName> asked us a variety of questions during the time
                     we were on the water, chiefly relating to the nature and constitution of the
                     country from whence we came. As he had never seen any of our persons of high
                     rank, he concluded that <persName>Mr. Banks</persName> could be no less than
                     the king's brother, and that <persName>captain Cook</persName> was high
                     admiral. The information which we gave him was received with the greatest marks
                     of surprize and attention; but when we told him we had neither their coco-nut
                     nor bread-fruit trees, he seemed to think but meanly of our country, though we
                     enumerated all its other advantages. We were no sooner landed, than he ordered
                     a repast of fish and fruit to be served up, and insisted on our partaking of
                     it. We had just dined before we left the ship, but unwilling to give offence,
                     we sat down and ate of the provisions, which were excellent. Indeed we could
                     not but compare this happy country to <placeName>Mahomed's
                     Paradise</placeName>, where the appetite is never cloyed by being gratified.
                     The meal was already served, and we were going to help ourselves, when Towhah
                     desired us to stop. In a few moments one of his attendants brought a large
                     cook-knife, and some bamboo-sticks, instead of forks.
                        <persName>Towhah</persName> carved the victuals, and gave each of us a
                     bamboo, saying he would eat in the English manner. Instead of eating his
                     bread-fruit by handfuls, he now cut it small, and took a bit of it after every
                     morsel of fish, to shew how exactly he remembered our custom since the time of
                     his dining with us. The good lady feasted apart some time afterwards, according
                     to the invariable custom of the country. We walked about and chatted with them
                     both till near sunset, when they embarked in their canoe, and returned to the
                     district called <placeName>Atahooroo</placeName>, part of which belonged to
                     Towhah. They took leave of us very cordially, and promised to return to the
                     ship again in a few days. We hired a double canoe for a nail, and returned on
                     board before it was dark. I found <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and my
                     father just returned from the mountains. Noona, the same lively and intelligent
                     boy whom I have already mentioned in the former part of this narrative<ref target="#edn183">
                        <note xml:id="edn183" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 339. </note>
                     </ref>, had been their conductor. As they set out in the afternoon (on the
                     28th) they only reached a small hut on the second ridge, having crossed two
                     deep vallies, and climbed two steep hills, rendered very slippery from a smart
                     shower which had fallen. Here they found a man with his wife and three
                     children. The man enlarged his cottage by means of branches of trees, and
                     prepared them a supper; after which, having previously made a fire, they
                     watched and slept by turns. The fire was seen on board our ship; and in return
                     they heard the ringing of the ship's bell at midnight, though they were upwards
                     of a league distant from it. The whole night was fair and cool; but their
                     friendly host, whose name was <persName>Tahéa</persName>, had a violent cough.
                     At day break they resumed their march towards the summits, and
                        <persName>Tahea</persName> led the way, with a load of coco-nuts. The
                     difficulties increased as they ascended; the paths running along the narrow
                     ridge of steep hills, whose sides were almost perpendicular. The greatest
                     danger arose from the slipperiness, occasioned by the rains of the preceding
                     day. When they had ascended to a considerable height, they found thick
                     shrubberies and woods on these steep sides; and attempting to collect plants
                     there, they frequently met with precipices which are really tremendous. Still
                     higher up the whole ridge was covered with a forest, where they gathered a
                     number of plants, which they had never seen in the vallies below. After they
                     had crossed the ridge, there fell a heavy shower of rain; and they coming to a
                     very dangerous part, <persName>Tahea</persName> said they could go no farther.
                     They resolved however to leave their heavy plant and provision bags behind, and
                     went up with a single musket to the summit of the mountain, which they reached
                     in about half an hour. Just about that time the clouds broke, and they had a
                     prospect of <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, <placeName>Tethuroa</placeName>,
                     and <placeName>Tabbuamanoo</placeName>. The view of the fertile plain under
                     their feet, and of the valley of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>, where the
                     river makes innumerable meanders, was delightful in the highest degree. Thick
                     clouds however prevented their discerning any thing on the south side of the
                     island. In a few moments even the other part was covered again, and they were
                     involved in a mist which wetted them to the skin. In their descent my father
                     had the misfortune to fall in a very rocky place, and bruised his leg in such a
                     manner, that he nearly fainted away. When he recovered, and attempted to
                     proceed, he found that he had also received a dangerous rupture, for which he
                     now continues to wear a bandage. <persName>Tahea</persName> assisted him in
                     going down; and they all arrived on board about <time>four o'clock in the
                        afternoon</time>. The upper hills they found to consist of a kind of clay
                     extremely compact and stiff. The vegetation on the upper part of the mountains
                     was luxuriant, and the woods consisted of many unknown sorts of plants. They
                     enquired particularly for the perfume-wood, with which the natives perfume
                     their oil. <persName>Tahea</persName> shewed them several plants which are
                     sometimes used as substitutes; but the most precious sort itself he either
                     could not, or would not, point out to them. <persName>O-Maï</persName> has told
                     me that there are at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> no less than fourteen
                     different sorts of plants employed for perfuming; which shews how remarkably
                     fond these people are of fine smells.</p>

                  <p n="597">The number of common women on board our ship was considerably encreased
                     since we had begun to deal in red feathers; and this night in particular many
                     strolled about the decks who could not meet with partners. The abundance of
                     pork likewise attracted them; for being almost entirely deprived of that rich
                     food in their own houshold, they were eager to obtain it among our sailors, and
                     sometimes consumed incredible quantities. The goodness of their appetite and
                     digestion exposed them however to the inconvenience of restlessness, and often
                     disturbed those who wished to sleep after the fatigues of the day. On certain
                     urgent occasions they always required the attendance of their lovers; but as
                     they were frequently refused, the decks were made to resemble the paths in the
                     islands. Every evening these women divided into different troops, which danced
                     on the quarter-deck, the forecastle, and the main-deck. Their mirth was often
                     extravagant and noisy; and sometimes their ideas were so original as to give
                     great amusement. We had a very weak scorbutic patient when we arrived at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>: this man being somewhat recovered by means
                     of fresh vegetable food, and animated by the example of the crew, wooed a
                     Taheitian girl; about dusk led her to his birth, and lighted a candle. She
                     looked her lover in the face, and finding he had lost one eye, she took him by
                     the hand, and conducted him upon deck again to a girl that was one-eyed
                     likewise, giving him to understand, that that person was a fit partner for him,
                     but that for her part she did not choose to put up with a blind lover.</p>

                  <p n="598">
                     <date>[1774. May.][Sunday 1.]</date>Two days after, my father, being in some
                     measure recovered from the fatigue of his late excursion, and from the bruise
                     which he had received, went on shore, and found there
                        <persName>o-Rettee</persName>, the chief of <placeName>o-Hiddea</placeName>,
                     a district and harbour where <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> lay at
                     anchor. This chief asked <persName>captain Cook</persName>, whether, on his
                     return to <placeName>England</placeName>, he should see <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> whom he called <persName>Potavirree</persName>; and
                     being answered in the negative, he put the same question to my father. He
                     replied, it was not impossible, though he lived in a different kingdom. "
                     Then," said <persName>o-Rettee</persName>, " tell him I am his friend, and long
                     to see him again at <placeName>o-Taheitee</placeName>; and in order that you
                     may remember it, I will give you a hog as soon as I return from my district, to
                     which I am now going." With that he began to relate, that his friend
                        <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> had had two ships, and that on board
                     of one there was a woman, but that she was ugly. He rested a long while on this
                     circumstance, and seemed to think it extraordinary that a single woman should
                     go on such an expedition. He likewise confirmed the account of a visit from a
                     Spanish ship, which we had learned during our first stay at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; but he assured us that he and his
                     countrymen had no great affection for them. <persName>O-Rettee</persName> was a
                     fine grey-headed man, but very healthy and vigorous, as the old people of
                        <persName>Taheitee</persName> in general seem to be; his countenance was the
                     picture of a lively, chearful, and generous man. He told us he had been in many
                     battles, and shewed us several wounds he had received, particularly a blow with
                     a stone on his temple, which had left a deep scar. He had fought by
                        <persName>Tootahah's</persName> side, on the day when that chief was
                     killed.</p>

                  <p n="599">
                     <date>[Monday 2.]</date>The next morning <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> went
                     with me up the valley of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>, which the natives call
                        <placeName>Tooa-ooroo</placeName>. This was the first excursion of any
                     length which I undertook after my illness: I was therefore highly delighted
                     with the beautiful appearance of the vegetable creation, which had been revived
                     by the late rainy season; and surprised at the vast improvements which I saw
                     throughout the whole district. Wherever I went, I saw new and extensive
                     plantations, in excellent order; I found numbers of new houses built, and the
                     natives at work upon new canoes in many places. It was plain, during our former
                     stay, that the war between the two peninsulas had been distressful to this part
                     of the larger one; but at present there was not the least trace of it
                     remaining; the whole country was a scene of plenty, where numbers of hogs
                     grazed around every house, which none of the natives attempted to conceal from
                     us, as they had formerly done. I was much pleased to observe an alteration in
                     the behaviour of the natives, who never once importuned us with begging for
                     beads or nails, and who, instead of being backward to part with their store,
                     appeared eager to out-do each other in acts of benevolence and hospitality. We
                     did not pass a single hut, where we were not invited to come in, and partake of
                     some refreshment; and we never accepted their invitation, without being made
                     extremely happy by their unaffected kindness. About <time>ten o'clock</time> we
                     reached the mansion of that hospitable man, who had entertained us so well
                     during our former stay on the island, when we came from the hills excessively
                        fatigued<ref target="#edn184">
                        <note xml:id="edn184" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 351. </note>
                     </ref>. He treated us with a few coco-nuts, and we promised to come and dine
                     with him on our return down the valley. He gave his directions accordingly, and
                     accompanied us all the way. We found no habitations beyond his house, as the
                     mountains on both sides approached very close together, and were excessively
                     steep. Having advanced about a mile, we came to a place where the hill on the
                     east side formed a perpendicular wall, not less than forty yards high, beyond
                     which it had some inclination, and was crowned with shrubberies to a great
                     height. A fine cascade fell from this fringed part along the wall into the
                     river, and made the scene more lively, which in itself was dark, wild, and
                     romantic. When we came nearer, we observed that the perpendicular rock had many
                     projecting longitudinal angles, and on wading through the water to it, we found
                     it to consist of real columns of black compact basaltes, such as the natives
                     manufacture into tools. They stood upright, parallel, and joined to each other.
                     Their diameter seemed not to exceed fifteen or eighteen inches, and only one or
                     two angles of the same pillar projected or were visible. As it is now generally
                     supposed that basaltes is a production of volcanoes, we have here another
                     strong proof that Taheitee has undergone great changes by such subterraneous
                     fires, where nature produced the most wonderful chymical operations, upon a
                     very extensive plan. Beyond these columns the vale, for the space of two or
                     three miles, is more and more confined by mountains, so that we found it
                     difficult to proceed, having been obliged to cross the river near fifty times.
                     At last we came to the same place where <persName>Mr. Banks</persName> was
                     obliged to stop in his excursion<ref target="#edn185">
                        <note xml:id="edn185" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 173. </note>
                     </ref>. We found it equally impossible to proceed; and being much fatigued by
                     continually clambering over rocks and rugged ground, set out on our return. By
                     the way we collected some plants which we had not yet seen; and after a walk of
                     two hours, reached the dwelling of our hospitable friend. We dined heartily on
                     vegetables, and rewarded our host with red feathers to his heart's content; not
                     forgetting to give him some iron-ware, which would prove useful to him when the
                     feathers were lost or destroyed. His daughter, whom we had seen on our former
                     visit, was now married to a man in a remote district, our presents having made
                     her a rich heiress in this country. We came on board near sunset, having
                     rambled very leisurely through the plain of <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>,
                     captivated by the beauty and fertility of the prospect, and the additional
                     lustre which a fine evening spread over it.</p>

                  <p n="600">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName>, with my father and several officers, had
                     been at <placeName>Parre</placeName> to visit <persName>O-Too</persName>. They
                     had been conducted to a place where a new war-canoe was building, which the
                     king intended to call <placeName>O-Taheitee</placeName>. But <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> made him a present of an English jack<ref target="#edn186">
                        <note xml:id="edn186" anchored="true"> An ensign or flag, commonly hoisted
                           on the bowsprit. </note>
                     </ref>, a grapnel, and a grapnel-rope, and desired that it might be called the
                     Britannia. The king immediately consented, the jack was hoisted, and the people
                     gave three cheers.</p>

                  <p n="601">I recommended it to <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> to visit the
                     cascade which I had found in the valley; and accordingly the next day he went
                     up with several gentlemen, and took a view of it, and of the basalt-pillars
                     under it. We ate of a large albecore (<hi rend="italics">scomber
                        thynnus</hi>, Linn.) that day, which gave us all a sudden heat in the
                     face, and a violent head-ache. Some had likewise a purging; and a servant who
                     had entirely dined upon it, was violently affected with vomiting and purging.
                     It is probable that the fish was caught by means of some intoxicating plant,
                     which had perhaps communicated a noxious quality to the meat.</p>

                  <p n="602">We learnt about this time that <persName>Mahine</persName> had married
                     the daughter of <persName>Toperree</persName>, a chief of
                        <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>. A midshipman acquainted us that he had been
                     present on the occasion, and that he had seen a number of ceremonies performed:
                     but being intreated to give the particulars, he said, that though they were
                     extremely curious, he could not remember one of them, and did not know how to
                     relate them. By this means we lost the opportunity of making a considerable
                     discovery, in regard to the customs of these islanders. It is pity that no
                     intelligent observer was present, who might at least have related what he had
                     seen. <persName>Mahine</persName> came on board with his bride, who was a very
                     young girl, of a low stature, but not remarkable for beauty. She was very well
                     skilled in the art of begging for presents, and went through the whole ship
                     collecting a vast number of beads, nails, shirts, and red feathers, for which
                     she was indebted to the friendship which every body felt for
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>. This youth told us he had a great mind to
                     settle at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, since his friends had offered him
                     land, house, and property of all kinds there. He was received into an aree's
                     family, esteemed by the king himself, and respected by all the people; nay, one
                     of his friends had given him an attendant, or towtow, a boy who constantly
                     waited on him wherever he went; who punctually executed all his orders, and
                     seemed to be but little different from a slave.</p>

                  <p n="603">Though <persName>Mahine</persName> had laid aside the idea of going to
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, yet the lively boy,
                        <persName>Noona</persName>, was very desirous of visiting that country, and
                     spoke to my father and several other gentlemen, in the most urgent terms, to
                     take him on board. As my father proposed to take him entirely at his own
                     expence, <persName>captain Cook</persName> consented immediately to his
                     reception. The boy was however told, that he must never expect to come back,
                     since it was very doubtful whether another ship would be sent to
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> again. <persName>Noona</persName> was too
                     much bent upon going with us, to hesitate a moment even at this difficulty. He
                     resigned the hope of returning to his country, for the pleasure of visiting
                     ours. In the evening however of the same day <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     declared he would not take him on board, and he was accordingly obliged to
                     remain at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. As it was intended to teach him the
                     rudiments of the arts of the carpenter and smith, he would have returned to his
                     country at least as valuable a member of society as <persName>O-Mai</persName>,
                     who, after a stay of two years in <placeName>England</placeName>, will be able
                     to amuse his countrymen with the music of a hand-organ, and with the exhibition
                     of a puppet-show.</p>

                  <p n="604">We passed several days in visiting the plains of
                        <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>, and the extensive valley of
                        <placeName>Ahonnoo</placeName>, which is one of the most fertile, and, at
                     the same time, most picturesque, in the whole island. <date>[Friday
                     6.]</date>On the 6th, in the afternoon, my father and <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName> went up to the hills a second time, and I accompanied
                     them, in hopes of meeting with some new plants there, since we had entirely
                     exhausted the Flora of the plains. We passed the night again in
                        <persName>Tahea's</persName> hut, with this difference, that we did not keep
                     watch. <persName>Tahea</persName> was a merry humorous fellow; and it was his
                     constant request to us to call him <hi rend="italics">medua</hi> (father),
                     and his wife <hi rend="italics">o-pattèa<ref target="#edn187">
                           <note xml:id="edn187" anchored="true">
                              <hi rend="italics">pattèa</hi> is properly a word of endearment,
                              equivalent to our <hi rend="italics">mamma</hi>. This last the
                              Taheitians likewise make use of in the identical sense that we do.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </hi>(mother).</p>

                  <p n="605">We went up early the next day, but did not care to go quite to the
                     summit. In the forest we collected a number of new plants, and shot a swallow.
                     As we set out before sunrise, Tahea and his brother, who went up with us,
                     caught some terns, which slept on the bushes along the path. He told us that
                     many aquatic-birds come to rest on the mountains, after roaming all day over
                     the sea in quest of food; and that the tropic-bird in particular has its nest
                     there. The long tail feathers, which it annually sheds, are commonly found
                     there, and much sought after by the natives. We saw the clouds coming over the
                     summit, and descending towards us; therefore, in order to keep our plants dry,
                     we hastened down, and at <time>four o'clock</time> reached the ship, where we
                     found the whole royal family assembled, and among them
                        <persName>Neehouraï</persName>, the eldest sister of
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>, married to <persName>T'-aree-Derre</persName>,
                     the son of <persName>Ammo<ref target="#edn188">
                           <note xml:id="edn188" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 358. Likewise
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 154. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>. <persName>T'-aree-Watow</persName>, the king's next brother, staid
                     after they were all gone, and passed the night on board. To amuse him we let
                     off some false fires at the mast-head, with which he was highly entertained. At
                     supper, he enumerated to us all his relations, and gave us some account of the
                     history of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, which <persName>o-Maï</persName>
                     entirely confirmed to me, after my return to <placeName>England</placeName>.
                     From his information we learned, that <persName>Ammo</persName>,
                        <persName>Happaï</persName>, and <persName>Tootahah</persName> were three
                     brothers, and that <persName>Ammo</persName>, being the eldest, was king of all
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. He married <persName>o-Poorèa</persName>
                        (<persName>Oberea</persName>) a princess of the royal family, and had by her
                        <persName>t'-Aree-Derre</persName>, who was immediately styled Aree-rahaï,
                     or king of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. During the period of
                        <persName>Ammo's</persName> reign, <persName>captain Wallis</persName>
                     visited the island, and found <persName>o-Poorèa</persName>
                        (<persName>Oberea</persName>) invested with regal authority. About a year
                     after his departure, a war broke out between <persName>o-Ammo</persName> and
                     his vassal <persName>Aheatua</persName>, the king of the lesser peninsula.
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName> landed at <placeName>Paparra</placeName>, where
                        <persName>Ammo</persName> commonly resided, and after routing his forces
                     with great slaughter, destroyed the plantations and houses by fire, and carried
                     off all the hogs and poultry which he could find. <persName>Ammo</persName> and
                        <persName>Poorea</persName>, with all their attendants, among whom
                        <persName>o-Maï</persName>, according to his own account, was one, fled to
                     the mountains in December 1768. At last the conqueror consented to a peace, on
                     condition that <persName>Ammo</persName> should entirely resign the government,
                     and that the succession should be taken from his son, and conferred upon
                        <persName>o-Too</persName>, the eldest son of his brother
                        <persName>Happaï</persName>. This was agreed to, and
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName>, the youngest brother of
                        <persName>Ammo</persName>, was appointed regent. This revolution bears a
                     great resemblance to those which happen too frequently in the despotic kingdoms
                     of <placeName>Asia</placeName>. It is but seldom that the conqueror dares to
                     govern the country which he has subdued; in general he only plunders it, and
                     appoints another sovereign, whom he chooses from among the royal family of the
                     land. <persName>O-Poorea</persName> soon after quarrelled with her husband, and
                     frequently beat him; upon which they separated; he took a very handsome young
                     women to his bed, and she heaped her favours on <persName>Obadee</persName> and
                     other lovers. Some infidelity on the part of <persName>Ammo</persName> seems to
                     have been the foundation of this quarrel. These accidents, which are not so
                     frequent at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> as in
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, are however not absolutely unusual in that
                     island, especially when the lady has lost the charms which rendered her
                     amiable, and yet demands the same attention as before. An instance similar to
                     this happened on board. <persName>Polatehera</persName> formerly the wife of
                        <persName>Potatow</persName>, but now separated from him, had taken a young
                     husband or lover in his stead, as soon as her first lord had provided himself
                     with another partner. The young man had an affection for a Taheitian girl, and
                     our ship was the place of their rendez-vous. They did not however contrive
                     their amours so well, as to remain undiscovered. The masculine
                        <persName>Polatehera</persName> caught them one morning, gave her rival many
                     hearty boxes on the ear, and humbled the guilty lover with a severe
                     reprimand.</p>

                  <p n="606">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> found the government of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> in the hands of
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName>, when he arrived in the Endeavour. After his
                     departure <persName>Tootahah</persName>, being greatly enriched by the presents
                     he had obtained, persuaded the chiefs of <placeName>O-Taheitee-nue</placeName>,
                     or the <placeName>Great Peninsula</placeName>, to go against
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName>, whom he could not forgive on account of the
                     insult shewn to his family. They equipped a fleet, and went to
                        <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>, where <persName>Aheatua</persName> was
                     prepared to receive them. He was an old man<ref target="#edn189">
                        <note xml:id="edn189" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 158. </note>
                     </ref>, desirous to end his days in peace; and therefore sent to
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName>, to assure him that he was his friend, and
                     always intended to continue so; and that he desired him to return to his
                     country, without attacking those who had an affection for him.
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName> was not dissuaded from his purpose, but gave
                     orders to engage. The loss on both sides was nearly equal, but
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName> retired, in order to attack his enemy by land.
                        <persName>Happaï</persName>, with all his family, disapproved of this step,
                     and remained at <placeName>o-Parre</placeName>; but
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName> took <persName>o-Too</persName> with him, and
                     marched to the isthmus between the two peninsulas. Here
                        <persName>Aheatua</persName> met him, and a pitched battle ensued, which
                     ended in the total dispersion of <persName>Tootahah's</persName> army.
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName> himself was killed. Some told us he had been
                     taken prisoner, and was put to death afterwards; but others, and among them
                        <persName>o-Maï</persName>, asserted that he had been slain in the heat of
                     the engagement. <persName>O-Too</persName> retired precipitately to the
                     mountains with a few chosen friends, whilst <persName>Aheatua</persName>, with
                     his victorious forces, immediately marched to <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>
                     and <placeName>o-Parre</placeName>. At his arrival <persName>Happaï</persName>
                     retired to the mountains, but Aheatua sent to assure him that he had no quarrel
                     with him or his family, and that his wish had always been for peace. Those on
                     the mountain enquired in their turn concerning the fate of
                        <persName>Tootahah</persName> and <persName>o-Too</persName>; they heard
                     that the former was killed, and the no body knew what was become of the other.
                     Soon after <persName>o-Too</persName> arrived through many difficult passes,
                     and over precipices, and coming down from the highest summits, joined his
                     father, and all who were with him. A general peace was immediately concluded,
                     after which <persName>O-Too</persName> assumed the reins of government himself,
                     and the vast improvements in the country, which we noticed in eight months
                     time, seem to prove that he is a very intelligent man, who promotes the general
                     good of his subjects. <persName>Aheatua</persName> died soon after; and his son
                     of the same name, whom we found at <placeName>Aitepeha</placeName> in August
                     1773, succeeded him.</p>

                  <p n="607">
                     <persName>Te-aree-Watow</persName> farther acquainted us, that his father had
                     eight children. i. The eldest, Tedua (princess) <persName>Neehouraï</persName>,
                     who seemed to be about thirty years old, and is married to the son of
                        <persName>Ammo</persName>, called <persName>T'-aree-Derre</persName>. 2. The
                     next Tedua (princess) <persName>Towraï</persName>, was unmarried, about seven
                     and twenty, and appeared to have almost as great authority among the women, as
                     the king her brother had in the whole island. 3. <persName>O-Too</persName>,
                     aree-rahai, or king of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, is about twenty-six
                     years of age; <persName>Aheatua</persName> is obliged to uncover his shoulders
                     in his presence, as before his rightful paramount. 4. Tedua (princess)
                        <persName>Tehamaï</persName>, who was the next to him, died young. 5.
                        <persName>T'-aree-Watow</persName> himself was the next in order, and
                     appeared to be about sixteen years of age; he told us he had another name, but
                     which I have forgotten, from whence I conclude, that this which I have
                     mentioned is only his title. 6. His next brother is
                        <persName>Tubuaï-teraï</persName>, likewise called
                        <persName>Mayorro</persName>, a boy of ten or eleven years old. 7.
                        <persName>Erreretua</persName>, a little girl of seven years; and 8.
                        <persName>Tepaow</persName>, a boy of four or five, are the two youngest. A
                     healthy, but not corpulent habit of body, and a large bushy head of hair, were
                     extremely characteristic of the whole family. Their features in general were
                     pleasing, but their complexions rather brown, except that of
                        <persName>Neehouraï</persName> and <persName>O-Too</persName>. The whole
                     family appeared to be very much beloved among the nation, who in general are
                     extremely fond of their chiefs. In return, their behaviour to every body was so
                     affable and kind, that it commanded a general good-will.
                        <persName>Tedua-Towraï</persName> commonly accompanied the king her brother
                     when he came to visit us on board; and did not think she demeaned herself by
                     going to trade for red feathers among the common sailors, in exchange for
                     cloths and various curiosities. She happened once to be in the cabin with
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>, <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and my
                     father, looking over great heaps of iron ware, and other articles of trade; but
                     the captain being called out, she whispered something to her brother, who
                     immediately endeavoured to divert my father's attention by asking several
                     questions. My father took the hint, and the princess believing she was not
                     observed, concealed two large spike-nails in the folds of her garments. When
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> returned, my father acquainted him with
                     this little stratagem; but they agreed that it was most politic not to take any
                     notice of it. Before this time, she had frequently expressed a particular
                     desire to carry away with her one or other article of our riches, and had never
                     been refused; on the contrary, we had commonly given more than she demanded. It
                     was therefore extraordinary, that she should be tempted to steal that which
                     might so easily have been obtained by fair means; it should seem as if she had
                     a strange predilection for things acquired by stealth, and for which she was
                     only indebted to her own ingenuity. Some of the women on board likewise accused
                     her of admitting towtows, or men of the lowest rank, to her bed at night
                     privately, and unknown to her brother. In a country where the impulses of
                     nature are followed without restraint, it would be extraordinary if an
                     exception should be made, and still more so, if it should confine those who are
                     accustomed to have their will in most other respects. The passions of mankind
                     are similar every where; the same instincts are active in the slave and the
                     prince; consequently the history of their effects must ever be the same in
                     every country.</p>

                  <p n="608">
                     <date>[Sunday 8.]</date>
                     <persName>O-Too</persName> came to the tents on <placeName>Point
                        Venus</placeName> very early in the morning, and acquainted the serjeant of
                     marines that one of the natives had stolen a musket from a centry, and was run
                     off with it: he likewise dispatched <persName>Tee</persName>, his messenger, on
                     board to fetch his brother, who obeyed the summons, after breakfasting with us.
                     As soon as they returned on shore, <persName>O-Too</persName>, with all his
                     family, fled to the westward, being apprehensive that the musket would be
                     redemanded at their hands. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> seized several
                     double travelling-canoes belonging to different chiefs, and particularly that
                     of <persName>Maratata</persName>, who was accused of having ordered one of his
                     attendants to commit the theft. This chief himself was in his canoe, and
                     hastened to convey it out of our reach; but the captain firing several muskets
                     at it, <persName>Maratata</persName> and all his rowers leaped into the sea,
                     and swam ashore. About noon <persName>Tee</persName> came on board, and
                     acquainted us that the thief was gone to the <placeName>Lesser
                        Peninsula</placeName>, or <placeName>Tiarraboo</placeName>; upon which all
                     the canoes, except <persName>Maratata's</persName> were again restored to their
                     owners. We kept quiet on board till the afternoon, having but few of the
                     natives with us, among whom there was not one woman. Towards evening
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> went ashore, and soon after some natives
                     arrived in a most profuse perspiration, who brought no only the musket, but
                     also a bundle of cloaths and a two-hour-glass, which had been stolen at the
                     same time. They related, that having overtaken the thief, they had beaten him
                     most severely, and obliged him to shew where he had concealed the stolen goods
                     in the sand. Notwithstanding their appearance, we did not give much credit to
                     their story, especially as one of them had been so lately seen about the tents,
                     that it was impossible he could have run to any great distance. They received
                     some presents, however, to shew that we meant to reward their zeal in our
                     service. The next day there was no trade carried on; but
                        <persName>Tee</persName> came on board again, desiring the captain to visit
                     the king at <placeName>Parré</placeName>, who was <hi rend="italics">matòw</hi>, an ambiguous court-phrase, expressing not only that he was
                     afraid, but that he wished to be put into good humour with presents. The
                     captain and my father went to him, whilst <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and
                     myself were put ashore at the tents. We found the people a good deal terrified
                     at the extraordinary steps which had been taken, on our part, to do justice to
                     ourselves. They had received strict orders from the king not to sell any
                     provisions, however they treated us with coco-nuts and other refreshments with
                     their usual hospitality. At noon we came on board, and the captain returned
                     soon after, having ratified the friendship with <persName>O-Too</persName>. No
                     women came on board this night, the king having prohibited it, lest they should
                     give occasion to complaints, by stealing from our people. <date>[Tuesday
                        10.]</date>However the next day they were permitted to visit our sailors
                     again; and with them came a number of canoes loaden with vegetable provisions,
                     and some with fresh fish. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> sent
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> with several presents to
                        <persName>Towhah</persName>, into <placeName>Atahooroo</placeName>, in
                     return for several hogs which he had received. During his absence,
                        <persName>O-Poorea</persName> (<persName>Oberea</persName>) once the queen
                     of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, came on board, and presented two hogs to
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>. The fame of our red feathers had reached
                     to the plains of <placeName>Paparra</placeName>, for she told us she was come
                     to have some of them. She appeared to be between forty and fifty; her person
                     was tall, large, and fat, and her features, which seemed once to have been more
                     agreeable, were now rather masculine. However something of her former greatness
                     remained; she had " an eye to threaten or command<ref target="#edn190">
                        <note xml:id="edn190" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Shakespeare</persName>. </note>
                     </ref>," and a free and noble deportment. She did not stay long on board,
                     probably because she felt herself of less consequence in our eyes than
                     formerly. After enquiring for her friends of the Endeavour, she went ashore in
                     her canoe. <persName>O-Ammo</persName> likewise came to the ship about this
                     time, but was still less noticed than his late consort; and being little known
                     on board, was not permitted to come even into the captain's cabin. It was with
                     difficulty that he could dispose of his hogs, as we had now so many on board,
                     that we did not care to croud the decks with more. These two royal personages
                     are living examples of the instability of human grandeur.</p>

                  <p n="609">
                     <date>[Thursday 12.]</date>We contrived several diversions for
                        <persName>O-Too</persName> on the 12th. We fired our guns with round and
                     grape-shot across the reef into the sea, at which he and a croud of several
                     thousand spectators were highly delighted. In the evening we let off a few
                     sky-rockets, and some air-balloons, which heightened their raptures, and filled
                     them with admiration. They looked upon us as extraordinary people, who had
                     fires and stars at command, and gave our fire-works the name of <hi rend="italics">Heiva-Bretannee</hi>, the British Festival.</p>

                  <p n="610">All the next day a number of people surrounded the ship, who brought no
                     provisions, but great quantities of cloth and curiosities, having observed that
                     we prepared to leave them. In the afternoon we went to
                        <persName>O-Parre</persName> with <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and
                     found our worthy friend <persName>Towhah</persName> there with
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>. <persName>Towhah</persName> had been
                     dangerously ill of a disorder similar to the gout, and his legs were still
                     swelled, and excessively painful. He was however come to take leave of us, and
                     promised to visit us the next morning. <persName>O-Too</persName> likewise met
                     us there, and spoke of sending a supply of bread-fruit, which we valued more
                     than hogs at present. <date>[Saturday 14.]</date>Early the next morning we
                     received the visit of a great part of the nobility of the whole island. Among
                     them was <persName>Happaï</persName> and all his children, except
                        <persName>O-Too</persName>. <persName>Towhah</persName> and his wife
                     likewise came about <time>eight o'clock</time>, and brought great loads of
                     presents of all sorts to us. The good old admiral was so ill that he could not
                     stand on his legs; he was very desirous however to come upon deck; we therefore
                     flung a chair in ropes, and hoisted him up in it, to his great delight, and to
                     the astonishment of all his countrymen. We discoursed on the subject of the
                     intended expedition against <placeName>Eimeo</placeName>, which he still
                     assured us would take place soon after our departure. Notwithstanding his
                     illness, he was determined to command the fleet in person, saying it was of
                     little consequence if they killed an old man, who could no longer be useful. He
                     was very chearful under his infirmities, and his way of thinking was nobly
                     disinterested, and seemed to be animated by true heroism. He took leave of us
                     with a degree of cordiality and emotion, which touched the heart, and might
                     have reconciled a misanthrope to the world. <persName>Mahine</persName>, who
                     came on board with him, resolved to go with us to
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName> to visit his relations and friends in the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, and then to return to
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, as soon as he should meet with an
                     opportunity. He considered, that having possessions in several of those
                     islands, it was his interest to return thither, and to dispose of them to the
                     greatest advantage. He introduced to <placeName>captain Cook</placeName>
                     several natives of Borabora, one of which was his brother; they desired a
                     passage to the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, which <placeName>captain
                        Cook</placeName> readily granted. With a degree of exultation, he imparted
                     to us in confidence, that he had shared <persName>O-Poorea's</persName> bed the
                     last night; this he esteemed as a great honour and mark of eminence, and shewed
                     us several pieces of the best cloth, which she had presented to him.
                        <persName>O-Poorea</persName> was therefore not too old to relish sensual
                     gratifications even in a warm climate, where the epocha of maturity seems to
                     happen at a much earlier age than in colder countries, and where of course
                     every stage of human life might be supposed to have only a proportionate
                     duration. <persName>O-Too</persName> not being arrived on board, we went to
                     visit him once more, and to view some war-canoes which lay at
                        <placeName>Parre</placeName>. We found only forty-four, all which belonged
                     to <placeName>Tittaha</placeName>, the smallest district in the north-west
                     peninsula of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. <persName>O-Too</persName>
                     ordered some military evolutions to be made before us, which were performed
                     with great dexterity. The chiefs were all dressed in their habits, and had
                     targets, but no helmets. There were also some little boys, who wore the
                     dresses, and parried the spears with as great agility as grown people. Their
                     method was to rest the point of a spear or long battle-axe on the ground before
                     them, so that it made an angle of about 25 or 30 deg. with the ground. With the
                     other end, which they held in their hand, they contrived to keep the spear
                     always in the middle, right before the body. By this means the spear of the
                     adversary always slid off on one side or the other, without ever coming near
                     the body. Some of the canoes likewise performed part of their manӕuvre. They
                     came singly one after another through the narrow entrance of the reef; but as
                     soon as they were within, they formed in a line, and joined close together. On
                     the middlemost canoe there was a man placed behind the fighting stage, who gave
                     signals with a green branch to the rowers, either to paddle to the right or
                     left. The movement in consequence of his command was in perfect tune, and so
                     very regular, that it seemed as if all the paddles were parts of the same
                     machine which moved some hundred arms at once. This man might be compared to
                     the Keleuzhz in the ships of the ancient Greeks: indeed, the view of the
                     Taheitian fleet frequently brought to our mind an idea of the naval force which
                     that nation employed in the first ages of its existence, and induced us to
                     compare them together. The Greeks were doubtless better armed, having the use
                     of metals; but it seemed plain, from the writings of
                     <persName>Homer</persName>, in spight of poetical embellishment, that their
                     mode of fighting was irregular, and their arms simple, like those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The united efforts of
                        <placeName>Greece</placeName> against <placeName>Troy</placeName>, in remote
                     antiquity, could not be much more considerable than the armament of
                        <placeName>O-Too</placeName> against the <placeName>isle of
                        Eimeo</placeName>; and the boasted <hi rend="italics">mille carinœ</hi>,
                     were probably not more formidable than a fleet of large canoes, which require
                     from fifty to an hundred and twenty men to paddle them. The navigation of the
                     Greeks in those days was not more extensive than that which is practised by the
                     Taheitians at present, being confined to short passages from island to island;
                     and as the stars at night directed the mariners through the Archipelago at that
                     time, so they still continue to guide others in the <placeName>Pacific
                        ocean</placeName>. The Greeks were brave; but the numerous wounds of the
                     Taheitian chiefs, are all proofs of their spirit and prowess. It seems to be
                     certain, that in their battles they rouze themselves into a kind of phrenzy,
                     and that their bravery is a violent fit of passion. From Homer's battles it is
                     evident, that the heroism which produced the wonders he records, was exactly of
                     the same nature. Let us for a moment be allowed to carry this comparison still
                     farther. The heroes of <persName>Homer</persName> are represented to us as men
                     of supernatural size and force. The Taheitian chiefs, compared to the common
                     people, are so much superior in stature and elegance of form, that they look
                     like a different race<ref target="#edn191">
                        <note xml:id="edn191" anchored="true">
                           <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> has been led by this difference
                           of appearance to assert, that they were really two different races. See
                           his <hi rend="italics">Voyage round the World</hi>, p. 249. </note>
                     </ref>. It requires a more than ordinary quantity of food to satisfy stomachs
                     of unusual dimensions. Accordingly we find, that the mighty men at the siege of
                        <placeName>Troy</placeName>, and the chiefs of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, are both famous for eating; and it appears
                     that pork was a diet no less admired by the Greeks, than it is by the
                     Taheitians at this day. Simplicity of manners is observable in both nations;
                     and their domestic character alike is hospitable, affectionate, and humane.
                     There is even a similarity in their political constitution. The chiefs of
                     districts at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> are powerful princes, who have not
                     more respect for <persName>O-Too</persName>, than the Greek heroes had for the
                     " King of men;" and the common people are so little noticed in the Iliad, that
                     they appear to have had no greater consequence, than the towtows in the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. In short, I believe the similitude might
                     be traced in many other instances; but it was my intention only to hint at it,
                     and not to abuse the patience of my readers. What I have here said is
                     sufficient to prove, that men in a similar state of civilization resemble each
                     other more than we are aware of, even in the most opposite extremes of the
                     world. I should be sorry to have made these slight remarks, if they should
                     unfortunately lead some learned schemer on a wrong scent. The itch of tracing
                     the pedigree of nations has lately made such havock in history, by endeavouring
                     to combine the Egyptians and Chinese, that the learned must sincerely wish, it
                     may never become a contagious distemper.</p>

                  <p n="611">
                     <persName>O-Too</persName> came on board, and dined with us for the last time.
                     He proposed to my father and <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> to stay at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and promised very seriously to make them
                     arees or chiefs of the rich districts of <placeName>Parre</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Matavaï</placeName>. Whether he had any interested motives for
                     this proposal, or whether it came merely from the fullness of his heart, I
                     cannot determine. As soon as the dinner was over we weighed our anchor, and set
                     sail. <persName>O-Too</persName> requested the captain to fire some cannon, and
                     was the last Taheitian who stepped into his canoe, after cordially embracing us
                     all. The noise of the cannon, by stunning our ears in some measure, diverted
                     our thoughts from taking that melancholy turn which is natural on these
                     occasions. It prevented our giving a loose to the soft feelings with which the
                     worth of this simple and beneficent nation had inspired us; but it was a
                     favourable opportunity for one of our seamen to make his escape to the island.
                     He was observed swimming towards the shore, and some canoes were seen paddling
                     to his assistance, when we dispatched a boat which brought him back, much
                     against his inclinations. His frolic cost him a fortnight's confinement in
                     irons. There is great reason to suppose that a plan was concerted between him
                     and the natives, who perhaps had promised themselves as great advantages from
                     retaining an European, as that European might expect by dwelling with them. If
                     we fairly consider the different situations of a common sailor on board the
                     Resolution, and of a Taheitian on his island, we cannot blame the former, if he
                     attempted to rid himself of the numberless discomforts of a voyage round the
                     world, and preferred an easy life, free from cares, in the happiest climate of
                     the world, to the frequent vicissitudes which are entailed upon the mariner.
                     The most favourable prospects of future success in
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, which he might form in idea, could never be
                     so flattering to his senses, as the lowly hope of living like the meanest
                     Taheitian. It was highly probable, that immediately on his return to
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, instead of indulging in repose those limbs
                     which had been tossed from pole to pole, he would be placed in another ship,
                     where the same fatigues, nocturnal watches, and unwholesome food, would still
                     fall to his share; or though he were allowed to solace himself for a few days,
                     after a long series of hardships, he must expect to be seized in the midst of
                     his enjoyments, and to be dragged an unwilling champion to the defence of his
                     country: to be cut off in the flower of his age, or to remain miserably
                     crippled, with only half his limbs, might be the alternatives to which he would
                     be reduced. But supposing he could escape these misfortunes, still he must earn
                     his subsistence in England, at the expence of labour, and " in the sweat of his
                     brow," when this eldest curse on mankind is scarcely felt at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The drudgery of our country people is
                     continual, and their exertion of strength very violent. Before they can make
                     the least use of corn, they must undergo the various labours of ploughing,
                     reaping, thrashing, and grinding. They are obliged to cultivate an hundred
                     times more than they can consume, in order to support a breed of animals, whose
                     assistance in husbandry is absolutely necessary; and to pay for the liberty of
                     tilling the ground, for the articles of dress indispensable in a raw climate;
                     for their tools, and a variety of things, which they might easily make with
                     their own hands, if agriculture alone did not engross their time and attention.
                     The tradesman, the manufacturer, the artist, all are obliged to work with equal
                     assiduity, in order to furnish the goods, in return for which the farmer gives
                     them bread. How different from this, how indolent is the life of the Taheitian!
                     Two or three bread-fruit trees, which grow almost without any culture, and
                     which flourish as long as he himself can expect to live, supply him with
                     abundant food during three-fourths of the year. The superfluity is fermented
                     and preserved, as a wholesome, nourishing and palatable bread, for the
                     remaining months. Those plants which require the greatest attendance at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, the cloth-trees and eddo-roots, are
                     cultivated with much less trouble than our cabbages and kitchen-herbs, though
                     their uses are infinitely more extensive. The whole process necessary to plant
                     a bread-tree, is to break off a sound branch, and stick it in the ground. The
                     banana, whose rich clusters seem too great a weight for the herbaceous stem,
                     annually shoots afresh from the root. The royal palm, at once the ornament of
                     the plain, and a useful gift of nature to its inhabitants; the golden apple,
                     whose salutary effects we have so strongly experienced, and a number of other
                     plants, all thrive with such luxuriance, and require so little trouble, that I
                     may venture to call them spontaneous. The manufacture of dress is an agreeable
                     pastime for the women, and the building of houses and canoes, with the making
                     of tools and arms, are occupations which become amusing by being voluntary, and
                     intended for the more immediate use of the artificers. Most of their days are
                     therefore spent in a round of various enjoyments, in a country where nature has
                     lavished many a pleasing landscape; where the temperature of the air is warm,
                     but continually refreshed by a wholesome breeze from the sea; and where the sky
                     is almost constantly serene. This climate, and its salubrious productions,
                     contribute to the strength and the elegance of their form. They are all
                     well-proportioned, and some would have been selected by
                        <persName>Phidias</persName> or <persName>Praxiteles</persName>, as models
                     of masculine beauty. Their features are sweet, and unruffled by violent
                     passions. Their large eyes, their arched eyebrows, and high forehead, give a
                     noble air to their heads, which are adorned by strong beards, and a comely
                     growth of hair<ref target="#edn192">
                        <note xml:id="edn192" anchored="true"> It has been said by other navigators,
                           that they eradicate the hair of the upper-lip, the breast and arm-pits;
                           but this is by no means a general custom. The chiefs in particular, and
                           the king himself, preserve their whiskers. </note>
                     </ref>. These, as well as their beautiful teeth, are the proofs of vigour, and
                     of a sound habit of body. The sex, the partners of their felicity, are likewise
                     well-formed; their irregular charms win the heart of their countrymen, and
                     their unaffected smiles, and a wish to please, insure them mutual esteem and
                     love. A kind of happy uniformity runs through the whole life of the Taheitians.
                     They rise with the sun, and hasten to rivers and fountains, to perform an
                     ablution equally reviving and cleanly. They pass the morning at work, or walk
                     about till the heat of the day increases, when they retreat to their dwellings,
                     or repose under some tufted tree. There they amuse themselves with smoothing
                     their hair, and anoint it with fragrant oils; or they blow the flute, and sing
                     to it, or listen to the songs of the birds. At the hour of noon, or a little
                     later, they go to dinner. After their meals they resume their domestic
                     amusements, during which the flame of mutual affection spreads in every heart,
                     and unites the rising generation with new and tender ties. The lively jest,
                     without any ill-nature, the artless tale, the jocund dance and frugal supper,
                     bring on the evening; and another visit to the river concludes the actions of
                     the day. Thus contented with their simple way of life, and placed in a
                     delightful country, they are free from cares, and happy in their ignorance.</p>

                  <p n="612">
                     <q>
                        <l>Ihr leben fliesset verborgen,</l>
                        <l>Wie klare bäche durch blumen dahin.</l>
                        <persName>Kleist</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="613">It must be allowed, that these advantages are decisive with those, who
                     have nothing so much at heart as the gratification of their senses. No wonder
                     then that a sailor, perhaps less guided by reason than the rest of his
                     comrades, should hurry on headlong after the pleasures of the present moment.
                     It is certain, at the same time, that being born and bred up in an active
                     sphere of life, acquainted with numberless subjects, utterly unknown to the
                     Taheitians, and accustomed to extend his thoughts to past and future
                     occurrences, he would shortly have been tired of an uninterrupted tranquility
                     and continual sameness, suited only to a people whose notions are simple and
                     confined.</p>

                  <p n="614">The ideas of happiness are infinitely various in different nations,
                     according to their manners, principles, and degrees of civilization. As the
                     productions and apparent good qualities of our globe, are either profusely or
                     sparingly distributed, on its different parts, the diversity of human opinions
                     is a convincing proof of that paternal love, and unerring wisdom, which, in the
                     plan of this world, has provided for the good of mankind, alike in the torrid
                     and the frigid zone.</p>

                  <p n="615">
                     <q>
                        <l>Fix'd to no spot is happiness sincere,</l>
                        <l>'Tis no where to be found, or ev'ry where.</l>
                        <persName>Pope</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

               </div>
               <div n="7" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VII.<lb/>
                     The second stay at the <persName>Society Islands</persName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="616">
                     <date>[1774. May.][Saturday 14.]</date>A Brisk gale carried us swiftly from
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. We were still busied in contemplating its
                     beautiful scenery, when an unexpected object on our own decks attracted our
                     attention. This was no other than one of the finest women whom we had seen in
                     the country, and who had resolved to go with us to
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName> (<persName>Ulietea</persName>), her native
                     island. Her parents, from whom she had eloped to
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> with a favoured lover some years ago, were
                     still alive, and the force of affection urged her irresistibly to visit them.
                     She was by no means apprehensive of their anger, but on the contrary expected a
                     kind reception. The little youthful errors of the heart are easily forgiven,
                     where interest and ambition have so little sway. She had concealed herself on
                     board during <persName>O-Too's</persName> last visit, as he had expressly
                     ordered that no woman should go with us; but being safe at present, she
                     ventured to make her appearance. <persName>Mahine's</persName> brother, his
                     servant, and two other natives of <placeName>Borabora</placeName>, likewise
                     took a passage with us, confidently relying on a people who had so faithfully
                     brought one of their countrymen back again, and who had endeavoured to shew him
                     every kindness in their power. Their company gave life to our conversation, and
                     shortened the day of our passage to <placeName>Huahine</placeName>. The girl
                     was dressed in a suit of cloaths belonging to one of the officers, and was so
                     much pleased with her new garments, that she went ashore in them as soon as she
                     arrived at that island. She dined with the officers, without the least scruple,
                     and laughed at the prejudices of her country-men with all the good sense of a
                     citizen of the world.1 With a proper education she might have shone as a woman
                     of genius even in <placeName>Europe</placeName>; since, without the advantage
                     of a cultivated understanding, her great vivacity joined to very polite
                     manners, already were sufficient to make her company supportable.</p>

                  <p n="617">
                     <date>[Sunday 15.]</date>We sailed on all night; and the next morning, at day
                     break, the <placeName>island of Huahine</placeName> was in sight. In the
                     afternoon we came to an anchor in the northern branch of <placeName>Wharre
                        harbour</placeName>, where we lay not more than fifty yards from the shore.
                     We were visited by some of the natives, who brought hogs to sell, but demanded
                     hatchets in return, which were now so scarce on board, that we reserved them
                     for great occasions. <persName>Oree</persName>, the regent of the island, came
                     to us before sunset in a small canoe, and brought a hog and a target of war to
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>,2 for which he received a suitable
                     present. He gave us some pepper-roots this time, but without any of the
                     ceremonies observed at our former visit to the island<ref target="#edn193">
                        <note xml:id="edn193" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 376. </note>
                     </ref>. In the evening we had a perfect calm, and were highly delighted with
                     viewing and hearing the natives, who sat in their houses along the shore,
                     around their candles, which are oily nuts stuck on a slender stick. One of the
                     first who came on board the next day was <persName>Porea</persName>, the
                     Taheitian youth, who had left that island with us eight months ago, but had
                     withdrawn himself from us at <placeName>Raietea</placeName>. He told us, it was
                     by no means with his consent that he staid behind. Having an amour with a
                     pretty girl, she had appointed a rendezvous, to which he had hastened, after
                     delivering the powder-horn to <persName>captain Cook</persName>. On his
                     arriving at the place appointed with his fair mistress, he had been attacked by
                     her father, with some attendants, who had stripped him of his European cloaths,
                     beaten him soundly, and confined him till after our departure. He had then
                     taken the first opportunity of crossing over to <placeName>Huahine</placeName>,
                     where he had been supported by the hospitality of several friends, so that he
                     was now in a very good plight. From his story we may gather, that the people of
                     these islands do not always permit their daughters to follow their own
                     inclinations; though according to our ideas, <persName>Porea's</persName>
                     attempt did not authorise the father to rob him of his cloaths.</p>

                  <p n="618">We went on shore early, and rambled to the lagoons, which the sea forms
                     to the northward of the harbour. We found them surrounded by swamps, filled
                     with a variety of East Indian plants; and their shores consisted of a slimy
                     mud, which, from its appearance, and fetid smell, we thought to be of the same
                     nature and qualities with <hi rend="italics">hepar sulphuris</hi>. There
                     were great flocks of ducks upon the lagoon; but we found it difficult to
                     approach them, as we sunk into the mud, whenever we ventured to walk through
                     it. The prospect which this piece of water forms, is however extremely pleasing
                     and picturesque. The stinking effluvia of the lagoons are probably esteemed
                     unwholesome, as we observed but very few houses on their banks. On the sea side
                     they are inclosed by a narrow coral ledge covered with sand, a little elevated,
                     along which we found great number of coco-nut palms. The marshes slope down
                     from this immediately to the stagnant water. We were entertained by one of the
                     natives with coco-nuts, which were at present very scarce upon the island. In
                     returning home our servant,3 who carried a bag with plants, and another with
                     iron tools, was knocked down a few yards behind us, and would have been robbed,
                     if we had not turned back by chance; but at sight of us the thieves ran off.
                     This was the second time that our people were thus boldly attacked by the
                     natives of <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, who seem, upon the whole, to be more
                     licentious under the infirm government of old Oree, than those of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and of the other <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>.4</p>

                  <p n="619">This old chief appeared to be much more indolent at this time than at
                     our first visit, and his intellects seemed to be considerably impaired. His
                     eyes were red and inflamed, and his whole body lean and scaly. We were not long
                     at a loss to account for this change, having observed that he was now much
                     addicted to the intoxicating pepper-draught, of which he drank great
                     quantities, prepared excessively strong. <persName>Mahine</persName> had the
                     honour of drinking with him for several nights together, and received such a
                     share of his nauseous beverage, that he commonly awoke the next morning with a
                     violent head-ache.</p>

                  <p n="620">We made another excursion to the same place the next day, and brought
                     back a number of corals, shells, and echini, which the natives had gathered for
                     us on the sea-shore. We received presents of hogs and targets from different
                     chiefs, who came on purpose to visit their old acquaintances, and would not
                     sell or part with their goods, till they saw their friend for whom they were
                     destined. The next day we took a walk up one of the hills, which is every where
                     planted with bread-trees, pepper and mulberry-trees, yams and eddoes. The
                     mulberry or cloth-trees were cultivated with particular attention; the ground
                     between them was carefully weeded, and manured with broken decayed shells and
                     coral, and the whole plantation surrounded with a deep furrow or channel, in
                     order to drain it. In many places they had burnt away ferns and various shrubs,
                     in order to prepare the ground for future plantations. At a considerable height
                     upon the hill we found a house, the inhabitants of which, an old woman and her
                     daughter, hospitably entertained us. We gave them several beads and nails, and
                     some red feathers, which last were rather accepted as a curiosity, than as
                     things of great value. This opinion was general among the people of
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>; they wanted hatchets in exchange for their
                     hogs, and smaller iron tools for other provisions, and as we were well stocked
                     with animals, we did not like their price, though it was the same which we had
                     formerly given. Since red feathers have really no intrinsic value, and are only
                     used for ornament, we have another convincing proof of the superior affluence
                     and luxury of the Taheitians, in the great eagerness which they expressed to
                     purchase them.5 The difference is obviously owing to the excellence of their
                     country, compared to <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, where the ambient plain is
                     so narrow and inconsiderable, that the natives are obliged to cultivate the
                     hills.</p>

                  <p n="621">Several bold thefts were committed, during the following days, by the
                     natives, for which it was not in our power to obtain redress. Some other
                     attempts however were punished. A party of petty officers were gone to take the
                     diversion of shooting on a hill, and had a marine with them, who carried some
                     hatchets and nails in a bag. A native who attended them, seeing that their
                     fowling-pieces missed fire several times, took his opportunity, when the marine
                     had laid down his bundle, to snatch it up, and ran off with it. The day after
                     the gentlemen went to see a heiva or public dance, and luckily found the thief
                     among the spectators. He confessed his misdemeanour, but promised, if they
                     would pardon him, to bring them some targets in return, which were always
                     reckoned equivalent to our hatchets. They were contented with his submission,
                     and the man punctually kept his word the next day; which shews that he was by
                     no means to be compared to our hardened sinners, but was fully sensible of the
                     generous treatment which he had met with. Another attempted to steal a
                     powder-horn, but he was detected, and requited by blows. Even the poor girl,
                     who came on board at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, tempted them by wearing
                     an European dress. A number of natives set upon her in a house, when she was
                     least aware of it, and began to strip off her cloaths; when some of our people
                     fortunately came by, who put the thieves to flight. This accident frightened
                     her so much, that she never ventured out of the ship alone for the future.</p>

                  <p n="622">
                     <date>[Thursday 19.]</date>On the 19th we took a walk towards the long inlet,
                     where <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> had been robbed about eight months
                     before. The weather was rainy at first, and the showers became so severe, that
                     we retreated into a small hut, to prevent our being wetted to the skin. We
                     found here a friendly family, who immediately offered us some fresh bread-fruit
                     and some fishes to eat, that being always the first mark of hospitality among
                     the inhabitants of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. An elderly woman, of
                     some note, had likewise taken shelter under the same roof, with one of her
                     attendants, who led a hog to her home. As we set out together, when the shower
                     was over, the good woman presented the hog to us, and invited us to her house,
                     which lay at a considerable distance. We crossed the hill, and descended to the
                     sea shore on the opposite side of the island. Our way was extremely slippery;
                     but we collected a number of plants which had novelty to recommend them. The
                     weather changed before we reached the plain below, and became delightfully
                     fair. We found a bay, with an extensive shoal of coral, and a small islet,
                     where great flocks of wild-ducks, curlews, and snipes resided. We received
                     several refreshments from the natives, which our friendly old lady endeavoured
                     to procure. After we had amused ourselves for some time with shooting, we
                     crossed the hills in another direction, and passing through a fine valley, well
                     inhabited, and rich in all sorts of plantations, we came to the woman's
                     dwelling on the sea shore. Here we found an old man, her husband, and a large
                     family, some of whom were grown up. She treated us with stewed fowls,
                     bread-fruit, and coco-nuts, and then sent us in her own canoe to the ship,
                     which lay about five miles off by sea, but at least twice as far by land. There
                     was a kind of assiduity to serve us in this good woman's behaviour, which I had
                     not often experienced in those numerous instances of hospitality, daily obvious
                     to the stranger in the South Sea islands. It is a most convincing proof of the
                     excellence of the human heart, in its simple state, before ambition, luxury,
                     and various other passions have corrupted it.</p>

                  <p n="623">
                     <date>[Friday 20.]</date>We staid on board the next day till the afternoon, and
                     then went ashore with <persName>captain Cook</persName> to a long house, which
                     was a common receptacle, or carvansera,6 for many families, who travelled
                     thither in order to be near us. We found several inferior chiefs there; but
                        <persName>Oree</persName> was gone to a different part of the island. After
                     conversing with them for some time, several natives arrived, who brought an
                     account that our first and second lieutenant, with one of the mates, had been
                     stripped by several robbers. A great number of the inhabitants immediately
                     fled, and all who remained expressed strong marks of fear. We could not collect
                     with certainty, from the information of different people, whether our officers
                     had been beaten or killed; the Taheitian word, <hi rend="italics">matte</hi>, expressing both these ideas. We were however soon relieved from
                     this state of suspense, by the appearance of the gentlemen, perfectly safe,
                     with their arms and cloaths. They informed us, that having been shooting near
                     the lagoons, they had been attacked unawares by some of the natives, who, upon
                     their refusing to part with their fowling-pieces, had beaten them, and wrested
                     those arms out of their hands; that a chief happening to pass by during the
                     struggle, had come to their assistance, and had effected the recovery of every
                     article which had been taken from them. We returned on board together, and
                     observed that the natives forsook the adjacent country. The next morning early,
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>, who had slept on shore, brought a message from
                        <persName>Oree</persName> to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, importing
                     that there were thirteen offenders, whom he could not punish without the
                     captain's assistance: he requested him therefore to send twenty-two armed men,
                     which he expressed by the same number of small sticks, and promised to join
                     them with some of his own warriors, who should go out to chastise the rebels.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> went on shore with
                        <persName>Mahine</persName>, in order to be more fully assured of
                        <persName>Oree's</persName> intention; but not understanding enough of the
                     language, he received very little intelligence. As soon as he returned on
                     board, he consulted with the officers; and, on this occasion, the second
                     lieutenant ingenuously confessed that they themselves had been the aggressors,
                     and had drawn upon them the severe revenge which the natives had taken. One of
                     them having shot a couple of ducks in the lagoon, desired a native, who
                     attended him, to fetch them out of the water. The man, who had repeatedly done
                     him this good office before, refused to serve as a spaniel any longer. Our
                     officer beat him, however, till he went in, and worked himself through the mud
                     with great agility, in a motion between swimming and walking. When he had
                     reached the ducks, which lay at a considerable distance from the shore, he swam
                     off with them to the opposite side of the lagoon, perhaps conscious that he
                     deserved them for the trouble he had taken. As this did not agree with the
                     seaman's intentions, he loaded his musket with ball, and fired, but fortunately
                     missed him. He was preparing to load again, when the croud about him, seeing
                     the life of their countryman so wantonly sported with, seized his arms. He
                     called to his companions for help, but they were likewise surrounded; and
                     though one of them fired a load of shot into the thighs of a native, this only
                     exasperated them the more; so that he was beaten and bruised without mercy.
                        <persName>Mahine's</persName> attendant, or servant, a stout youth, of a
                     very low stature, accompanied our gentlemen, and fought desperately in their
                     favour, but was overpowered by numbers. After this consession, the case was
                     greatly altered; however, the captain resolved to question
                        <persName>Oree</persName> once more, and to that purpose desired my father
                     to accompany him to the shore, being convinced that no person on board was at
                     this time so well versed in the language of the country.7 They soon learnt from
                        <persName>Oree</persName>, that he intended we should march to the dwellings
                     of the natives who had thus done themselves justice, and who seemed to have
                     withdrawn themselves even from his power; and that he wished to take all their
                     goods and hogs, and give them to us. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> returned
                     to the ship, and selected a party of forty-seven Europeans, including the
                     officers, <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, my father, and myself; not indeed
                     to reduce the rebellious subjects of <persName>Oree</persName> to their duty,
                     who had so much reason to complain of injustice from our people, but perhaps to
                     shew that he did not entirely approve of their conduct. We landed, and marched
                     with <persName>Oree</persName> and a few of the natives towards the district
                     where the robbery was committed. In proportion as we advanced, the croud at our
                     heels encreased in number to several hundreds, and took up arms in the
                     neighbouring houses. Oree himself wielded a spear ten feet long, with a barbed
                     tail of sting-ray at the point. We halted at the distance of about two miles,
                     and were now acquainted by Mahine that the natives had formed the plan of
                     surrounding and cutting us off. <persName>Oree</persName> was desirous to stay
                     behind; but <persName>captain Cook</persName> persuaded him and a few other
                     chiefs to go with us, whilst the rest of the croud were ordered to proceed no
                     further, under pretence, that in case of an engagement, we should not be able
                     to distinguish friends from foes. We marched about three miles to a place where
                     the path divided; we chose that which led across a very steep rock, in
                     preference to another at the foot of it. Steps were cut in the rock on the
                     opposite side, where we descended again on the plain. This pass was so
                     dangerous, that <persName>captain Cook</persName> proposed to leave a
                     detachment of his petty army here; but seeing that the croud advanced slowly
                     after him, in spite of <persName>Oree's</persName> orders, he resolved to
                     return, and declared to the natives that the enemy was too far off to be
                     pursued. We came back to a spacious house, about halfway to the ship, where
                        <persName>Oree</persName> regaled us with coco-nuts. Whilst we remained
                     there, some of the natives brought several banana-stalks, two dogs, and a pig.
                     They presented them to the captain, holding a long speech on the occasion,
                     which was mostly unintelligible, but seemed to relate to the affair that had
                     brought us into the field. A large hog was shewn to us at the same time, but
                     instead of being presented, it was led off again. From hence we reached the
                     sea-shore opposite the ship about noon, and then fired our muskets in platoons
                     over the sea. This manӕuvre surprised the natives prodigiously, as it convinced
                     them that we could keep up a constant fire, of which they had no idea before,
                     and shewed them to what vast distances our balls could be projected. Thus ended
                     our warlike expedition, to the wish of a few individuals amongst us, who had
                     too great an affection for all their brethren, to desire their destruction. It
                     was not so satisfactory to others, who, inured to the horrid scenes of war and
                     bloodshed, had acquired, by force of habit, a detestable eagerness to try their
                     skill in shooting at men, rather than at a mark!</p>

                  <p n="624">We saw but few natives about the ship all the next afternoon; some
                     fruit was however exchanged for small nails. Our friends visited us the next
                     morning, with many presents of different sorts. One of them, a chief, named
                        <persName>Morurua</persName>, had singled out my father as his friend, and
                     came with his wife and family to see us. Several articles were distributed to
                     them, in return for those which the chief had brought; but he thought our
                     present so much more valuable than his, that he seemed quite enchanted, and his
                     eyes with peculiar eloquence expressed a lively sense of gratitude.
                        <date>[Monday 23.]</date>He returned therefore to us again the next morning,
                     when we were getting under sail, and after loading us with new presents,
                     dissolved in tears at parting.</p>

                  <p n="625">We left the three friends of <persName>Mahine</persName> on this
                     island, but had taken on board another native, who was sent from
                        <persName>Oree</persName> with a message to <persName>O-Poonee</persName>,
                     the king of <placeName>Borabora</placeName>. This ambassador appeared to be a
                     very stupid fellow; we could not however dive into the secret of his mission,
                     nor were any of us solicitous about it. His name was
                        <persName>Hurree-hurree</persName>, which, in its English acceptation,
                     seemed to be remarkably well chosen for a messenger.</p>

                  <p n="626">
                     <date>[Tuesday 24]</date>The next day before noon we anchored in the entrance
                     of <placeName>Hamaneno harbour</placeName>, on the <placeName>island of
                        Raietea</placeName>, and spent the rest of the day, till after sun-set, in
                     warping the ship into the bason. The <persName>chief O-Rea</persName> came on
                     board, and seemed highly delighted with our return. The appearance of
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> and <persName>Hurree</persName> doubtless
                     strengthened his good opinion of us, and inspired all his people with
                     confidence. We went on shore to his house with <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> the next morning, <date>[Wednesd. 25.]</date>and were met by
                     his wife and his daughter <persName>Poyadua</persName>. The wife cut her head
                     with a shark's tooth, and received the blood on a bit of cloth; and both wept
                     and sobbed aloud together for some time.8 However when they had concluded this
                     ceremony, they were as merry as if nothing had happened. We were confined to
                     his house by heavy showers of rain till noon, when we returned to the ship,
                     which was now brought into a narrow creek, where she lay close to the shore,
                     for the convenience of watering.</p>

                  <p n="627">We walked along this creek in the afternoon, as far as the intermittent
                     showers would permit. The shore was lined with innumerable canoes, whilst every
                     house and shed was crouded with people, many of whom were preparing large and
                     luxurious dinners, from heaps of provisions which were every where accumulated.
                     We were told that a peculiar society or order of persons of both sexes, named
                     Arreoy,9 existed in these islands; and that they assembled at times from all
                     parts, and travelled through all the islands, feasting and carousing to excess.
                     During the time we lay at <persName>Huahine</persName>, we had observed no less
                     than seventy canoes, with more than seven hundred of these arreoys on board,
                     crossing over to <placeName>Raietea</placeName> in one morning. We were told
                     that they had spent a few days on the east side of the island, and were arrived
                     on its western shore only a day or two before us. We took notice that they were
                     all persons of some consequence, and of the race of chiefs. Some of the men
                     were punctured in large broad blotches; and <persName>Mahine</persName> assured
                     us, these were the most eminent members of the society, and that the more they
                     were covered with punctures, the higher was their rank. They were in general
                     stout and well made, and all professed themselves warriors.
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> had a very high veneration for this society, and
                     told us he himself was a member. They are united by the ties of reciprocal
                     friendship, and exercise hospitality towards each other in its greatest
                     latitude. As soon as an arreoy visits another, though he were unknown to him,
                     he is sure to have his wants supplied, and his desires gratified; he is
                     introduced to other members of the order, and they vie with each other in
                     loading him with caresses and presents. It was to this principle that
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> ascribed all the pleasures which he had enjoyed
                     at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The first people who saw him on board were
                     arreoys according to his account, and in that quality made him a present of
                     their garments, since he had no other than European cloaths. It appears, that
                     one or more persons of each little family of chiefs enter into this community,
                     of which the invariable and fundamental character is, that none of its members
                     are permitted to have any children. From the accounts of the most intelligent
                     among the natives, we have great room to suppose, that the original institution
                     required their living in perpetual celibacy. As this law was too repugnant to
                     the impulses of nature, which must be uncommonly strong in their climate, they
                     soon transgressed it; but preserved the intention of the prescribed abstinence,
                     by suffocating their unfortunate offspring immediately after birth.</p>

                  <p n="628">The arreoys enjoy several privileges, and are greatly respected
                     throughout the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; nay, they claim a great share of honour
                     from the very circumstance of being childless. <persName>Tupaya</persName> when
                     he heard that the king of <placeName>England</placeName> had a numerous
                     offspring, declared he thought himself much greater, because he belonged to the
                        arreoys<ref target="#edn194">
                        <note xml:id="edn194" anchored="true"> This anecdote I have heard from
                              <persName>captain Cook</persName> in conversation. </note>
                     </ref>. In most other countries the name of a parent gives honour and respect;
                     but when an arreoy, at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, emphatically bestows
                     it, it is meant as a term of contempt and reproach. The arreoys keep great
                     meetings at stated times, travelling from one island to another. They feast on
                     the choicest vegetables, and on plenty of pork, dog's flesh, fish, and poultry,
                     which is liberally furnished by the towtows, or lower class, for their
                     entertainment. The pepper-root drink is prepared and swallowed in surprising
                     quantities on these occasions. Wherever they go, the train of sensual pleasure
                     waits upon them. They are amused with music and dances, which are said to be
                     particularly lascivious at night, when no other spectators besides themselves
                     are admitted.</p>

                  <p n="629">In a country so far emerged from barbarism as
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, it cannot be supposed that a society would
                     have maintained itself to the present time, which appears so injurious to the
                     rest of the nation, unless its advantages were so considerable, as to require
                     its continuance. Two reasons seem to favour the existence of arreoys, and both
                     are in some measure connected together. The first appears to be the necessity
                     of entertaining a body of warriors, to defend their fellow-citizens from the
                     invasions and depredations of enemies. This is confirmed by the circumstance,
                     that all the arreoys are warriors; but as love might be supposed to enervate
                     them, they were restrained to that celibacy, which they have since found it too
                     difficult to observe. The second reason for the association of the arreoys,
                     seems to be to prevent the too rapid propagation of the race of chiefs.10 An
                     intelligent man, who perhaps was once the law-giver of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, might foresee, that the common people would
                     at length groan under the yoke of this numerous and ever-multiplying breed of
                        petty-tyrants<ref target="#edn195">
                        <note xml:id="edn195" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 367. </note>
                     </ref>. To oblige a part of them to a single life, was the shortest means of
                     obtaining this end; but certain glaring advantages were to be held out, to make
                     them submit without reluctance to such a restraint. From hence we may derive
                     that high esteem with which the whole nation honours the order of arreoy; and
                     likewise account for their authority, and for their gluttony in eating, which
                     has been the privilege of warriors in every country, before they became the
                     tools of tyranny. When the arreoys had once so far departed from the laws of
                     their first institution, as to admit the commerce with the sex, it is easy to
                     conceive, that, by insensible degrees, they have almost wholly lost the
                     original chaste and sober spirit of the order. They are at present, without
                     doubt, the most luxurious set of people in the island; though I have not found
                     the least reason to charge them with a refinement in voluptuousness,11 which is
                     at once improbable, and inconsistent with the tenderness of the whole people.
                     We have been told a wanton tale of promiscuous embraces, where every woman is
                     common to every man: but when we enquired for a confirmation of this story from
                     the natives, we were soon convinced that it must, like many others, be
                     considered as the groundless invention of a traveller's gay fancy.</p>

                  <p n="630">Some arreoys are married to a woman, in the same manner as
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> was to the daughter of <persName>Toperree<ref target="#edn196">
                           <note xml:id="edn196" anchored="true"> See page 89. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>; but others keep a temporary mistress. Many may perhaps revel in
                     the arms of several prostitutes, which are to be met with in all the islands.
                     This dissolute pleasure is however much more frequent in every civilized
                     country of Europe; but I apprehend it would not authorise an assertion, that in
                     Europe there exists a society of men and women, who practise a particular
                     refinement of sensuality<ref target="#edn197">
                        <note xml:id="edn197" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 207, &amp;c. </note>
                     </ref>. When we consider the whole character of the Taheitians; when we
                     recollect their gentleness, their generosity, their affectionate friendship,
                     their tenderness, their pity, we cannot reconcile these qualities to the murder
                     of their own offspring. We shudder at the stern inhumanity of the father, but
                     much more so at the obdurate heart of the mother, where the voice of nature,
                     and of powerful instinct, should cry aloud for mercy and protection. The paths
                     of virtue are but too easily forsaken; still we are at a loss to conceive, how
                     a people so much left to nature, could arrive at such a detestable pitch of
                     depravity: but custom,</p>

                  <p n="631">
                     <q>
                        <l> That monster custom, who all sense doth eat</l>
                        <l> Of habits evil ________</l>
                        <persName>Shakespeare</persName>.12</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="632">gradually blunts every feeling, and overcomes the stings of remorse. We
                     had no sooner learnt that such an unnatural and barbarous practice stigmatized
                     the society of arreoy, than we reprehended our young friend
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> for valuing himself on being a member of such a
                     detestable body. We endeavoured to point out the immorality and cruelty of this
                     practice, and made use of every argument which our reflections could furnish,
                     or our words express. We easily succeeded in convincing him, and obtained a
                     promise that he would not kill his children, but separate from the society as
                     soon as he should receive the glorious name of father. To our great
                     satisfaction he assured us, that the instances of arreoys having children were
                     extremely rare. It seems that they choose their wives and mistresses among the
                     prostitutes; and from this circumstance, as well as from their great
                     voluptuousness, they have seldom reason to dread the intrusion of an
                     unfortunate infant. The answers of <persName>O-Maï</persName>, whom I consulted
                     on this subject after my return to <placeName>England</placeName>, gave me
                     still greater pleasure, as they softened the transgression at least of one
                     part, and entirely freed the bulk of the nation from that share of guilt, which
                     the simple acquiescence in such a heinous crime might throw upon them. He
                     assured me, that the invariable laws of the community of arreoy required the
                     extinction of their offspring; that the pre-eminence and advantages which a man
                     enjoyed as arreoy were so valuable, as to urge him on against his own feelings;
                     that the mother was never willing to consent to the horrid murder, but that her
                     husband and other arreoys persuaded her to yield up the child; and that when
                     entreaties were not sufficient, force was sometimes employed. But above all, he
                     added, that this act was always performed in secret, and so that none of the
                     people, not even the towtows or attendants of the house, were present; because,
                     if it were seen, the murderers must be put to death. This being the case, we
                     may comfort ourselves with the reflection, that criminal individuals are not
                     more numerous in the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, than among other
                     people; and that the votaries of vice have no reason to triumph, in supposing a
                     whole nation accustomed to commit unnatural murders, without a sense of
                        wrong<ref target="#edn198">
                        <note xml:id="edn198" anchored="true"> Depravity is much more at home in our
                           polished climate, and I must here mention an instance which stains
                           society with indelible dishonour. In the metropolis of
                              <placeName>England</placeName>, there are wretches, who publicly
                           declare their skill, and offer their services, to procure abortion. (See
                           an advertisement to that effect in a public paper, No. 1322, for
                           Wednesday, January 15, 1777.) They are suffered with impunity to make a
                           trade of destroying human beings in the womb. Such is the salutary
                           consequence of lenity towards the murderers of innocent babes! </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="633">
                     <date>[Thursday 26.]</date>The arreoys were no less hospitable than luxurious,
                     and it was not for want of invitation that we did not partake of their
                     refreshments. We rambled in the country till sunset, and then returned to the
                     ship, which <persName>Mahine</persName>, the woman, and the other Indian
                     passengers had now left. The next morning a great number of natives came to the
                     ship in their canoes, among whom were many women, who remained with the
                     sailors. At <placeName>Huahine</placeName> the commerce of this kind had been
                     very inconsiderable, and chiefly confined to women who were only on a visit to
                     that island; it was therefore resumed here with the greatest eagerness by our
                     crew. We passed the day on an excursion to the northward, where we shot several
                     wild ducks, and met with a hospitable reception in different cottages.</p>

                  <p n="634">The next was a fine day, delightfully tempered by a strong easterly
                     gale. We received the visits of <persName>Orea</persName> and all his family,
                     of <persName>Boba</persName>, the viceroy of the <placeName>island of
                        O-Tahà</placeName>, and of <persName>Teïna</persName>, the fair
                     dancing-woman, whose picture <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> had formerly
                     attempted to draw<ref target="#edn199">
                        <note xml:id="edn199" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 402. and the plate in
                              <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this voyage, which is
                           engraved from <persName>Mr. Hodges's</persName> drawing. </note>
                     </ref>. <persName>Boba</persName> was a tall, handsome young man, a native of
                        <placeName>Borabora</placeName>, related to <persName>Poonee</persName>, the
                     king of that island, and conqueror of <placeName>Raietea</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Tahà</placeName>. <persName>Mahine</persName> has frequently told
                     us, that he is destined to be the successor of <persName>O-Poone</persName>,
                     whose only daughter <persName>Maïwherua</persName>, said to be a young
                     beautiful princess, twelve years old, he is to marry. <persName>Boba</persName>
                     was at present an arreoy, and kept the lively <persName>Teïna</persName> as his
                     mistress, who was with child in consequence. We entered into conversation with
                     her on the custom of killing the offspring of an arreoy. The short dialogue
                     which passed between us was couched in the most simple expressions, because we
                     had not sufficient knowledge of the language to discourse of abstract ideas.
                     For the same reason all our rhetoric was exhausted in a few moments, and had no
                     other effect, than to draw the following concession from
                        <persName>Teïna-maï</persName>: " that our eatua (deity) in
                        <placeName>England</placeName> might perhaps be offended by the practice of
                     the arreoys; but that her's was not displeased with it. She promised, however,
                     if we would come from <placeName>England</placeName> to fetch her child, she
                     might perhaps keep it alive, provided we gave her a hatchet, a shirt, and some
                     red feathers." This was said in such a laughing tone, that we had not the least
                     room to believe her in earnest. It was in vain to attempt to continue the
                     conversation, since a variety of objects diverted her attention: it was a
                     wonder indeed that she had lent an ear to our questions so long.</p>

                  <p n="635">In the afternoon we went ashore, to see a dramatic dance performed by
                        <persName>Orea's</persName> daughter <persName>Poyadua</persName>, and found
                     a great number of inhabitants assembled at the play-house; this diversion being
                     admired by all ranks of the people. <persName>Poyadua</persName> displayed her
                     agility as usual, and received great applause from the European spectators. The
                     interludes performed by the men were something different from those we had seen
                     before. We could plainly understand the name of <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, and of several of our shipmates, mentioned in their songs,
                     and they seemed to represent a theft committed by their people.13 Another of
                     the interludes was the invasion of the <placeName>Borabora</placeName> men,
                     which they expressed by beating one another with a thong or whip, which made a
                     very loud smack. But still another was more curious than all the rest: it
                     represented a woman in labour, and provoked immoderate pearls of laughter from
                     the multitude. The man who acted this part went through the gestures, which the
                     Greeks were wont to admire in the groves of
                        <placeName>Venus-Ariadne</placeName>, near <placeName>Amathus</placeName>,
                     where the same ceremony was acted on the second day of the month Gorpiœus, in
                     memory of <persName>Ariadne</persName>, who died in child-bed<ref target="#edn200">
                        <note xml:id="edn200" anchored="true"> Vide Plutarch, in Theseo. </note>
                     </ref>. Thus it appears, that there is scarcely a practice, though ever so
                     ridiculous, existing in any corner of the world, that has not been hit upon by
                     the extravagant fancy of men in some other region. A tall stout fellow, dressed
                     in cloth, personated the new born infant in such a ludicrous style, that we
                     could not refuse joining in the plaudits which his countrymen bestowed upon
                     him. Anatomists and midwives would have been surprised to observe, that this
                     overgrown babe had every necessary character of a child newly born; but the
                     natives were particularly delighted with his running about the stage, whilst
                     the rest of the dancers endeavoured to catch him. The ladies were much pleased
                     with this scene, which, according to the simplicity of their ideas, had not the
                     least indecency; they looked on, therefore, unconcernedly, and were not
                     obliged, like some European dames, to peep through their fans.</p>

                  <p n="636">
                     <date>[Saturday 28.]</date>The next morning we travelled along the shore to the
                     southward, and met with a very fertile country, and hospitable people. We came
                     early to a large building of stone, which was called Maraï no Parua,
                        <persName>Parua's</persName> burying-place. I have already mentioned that
                     this name was likewise given to <persName>Tupaya</persName>, who went in the
                     Endeavour; but I am doubtful whether the burying-place relates to
                        <persName>Tupaya</persName>, since it generally bears the appellation of
                     some living chief. Indeed it is not improbable that another
                        <persName>Parua</persName> might be alive on the island, after whom the
                     maraï was named, especially as all the natives in the neighbourhood strenuously
                     asserted, that this Parua was an aree, which was not always allowed of
                        <persName>Tupaya</persName>. This monument was sixty yards long, and five
                     wide; the walls were made of large stones, and about six or eight feet high. We
                     climbed over, and found the space within covered with a heap of small coral
                     stones.</p>

                  <p n="637">From thence we walked on several miles, till we arrived at a spacious
                     bay, where three little islands lie within the reef. The country round this bay
                     was swampy, and well stocked with ducks. Here we passed some time in shooting,
                     and then embarked in two small canoes, and were safely landed at one of the
                     little islands. We found a few coco palms and shrubs, but no fruit-trees upon
                     it; and there was only a single fisherman's hut, containing some nets, and
                     other fishing-tackle. We returned very soon to the main shore, having found no
                     shells, though the hope of meeting with some had principally induced us to
                     cross the water. We dined with a native who had invited us, and returned to the
                     ship in a canoe about sun-set. The <persName>chief Orea</persName> had dined on
                     board with <persName>captain Cook</persName> during our absence, and had drank
                     about a bottle of wine, without appearing in the least intoxicated. He had
                     however, as usual, been extremely facetious, and had conversed chiefly of the
                     countries which we had lately visited, and of which he had received an account
                     from his countryman <persName>Mahine</persName>. After being satisfied in
                     regard to many particulars, he said, that though we had seen a great deal, he
                     would tell us of an island which we had not met with in our voyages. " It
                     lies," said he, " but a few days sail from hence, but it is inhabited by a
                     monstrous race of giants, as tall as the main-mast, and as thick about the
                     middle as the drum-head of the capstan. They are very good-natured people, but
                     if they are ever incensed against any body, they take him up, and throw him as
                     far into the sea as I would throw a stone. If you should happen to come there
                     with your ship, they would perhaps wade up to it, and carry it ashore on their
                     backs." He added several other ludicrous circumstances, and concluded with
                     telling us the name of the island, <placeName>Mirro mirro</placeName>, in order
                     to give greater weight to his assertion. It appeared evidently to us, that his
                     whole story was a fine piece of irony, directed against those parts of our
                     narrative which he did not believe, and of which he could have no conception.14
                     We admired the witty humour which was so conspicuous in this little flight of
                     fancy, and with <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> looked up to its great
                     source, the affluence of the country, which produced contentment and
                        pleasure<ref target="#edn201">
                        <note xml:id="edn201" anchored="true"> See his <hi rend="italics">Voyage
                              round the World</hi>, English ed. p. 257. </note>
                     </ref>.15</p>

                  <p n="638">
                     <date>[Sunday 29.]</date>During the next night some of the natives stole the
                     rudders, grapnels, and boat-hooks belonging to our boats, which were fastened
                     to the buoy. As soon as this theft was discovered in the morning, the captain
                     acquainted <persName>Orea</persName> with it, who immediately embarked with him
                     in a boat, and rowed several miles to the southward. In about an hour's time
                     they landed, and almost all the stolen articles being returned to our people,
                     they came back to the ship entirely satisfied. I had been on shore in the creek
                     during this time, and saw a heeva, or dance, performed by two little girls; but
                     their dress was not so grand, and their action much inferior to that of
                        <persName>Poyadua</persName>. The tamow, or head-dress of plaited hair, was
                     not laid like a turban, but formed several large locks, which had a pretty
                     effect, and resembled in some measure the high heads of our modern
                     ladies.16</p>

                  <p n="639">In the afternoon <persName>Poyadua</persName> performed a dance; and as
                     if she meant to outshine the other actresses, she had ornamented her dress more
                     than usual, and wore a great quantity of various sorts of European beads. Her
                     wonderful agility, the graceful motion of her arms, and the quick vibration of
                     her fingers, were as much admired there by the natives, as we applaud them in
                     our dancers; and since all these accomplishments are taught in the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> islands by nature only, it must be
                     confessed that <persName>Poyadua</persName> deserved the encomiums which all
                     the spectators bestowed upon her. The inhabitants were particularly delighted
                     with the extraordinary contortions into which she screwed her mouth; though we
                     were so little of their mind, that we could not help thinking them horridly
                     frightful. The meeting of the arreoys gave rise to these frequent dramatic
                     entertainments; their presence seemed to enliven the whole country, and to
                     inspire all the people with extraordinary cheerfulness. They frequently shifted
                     their garments,17 made of their best kinds of cloth; they passed their time in
                     luxurious idleness, perfuming their hair with fragrant oils, singing and
                     playing on the flute, and passing from one entertainment to another; in short,
                     they enjoyed the blessings of their islands in the utmost extent; and so much
                     resembled the happy indolent people whom <persName>Ulysses</persName> found in
                     Phӕacia, that they could apply the poet's lines to themselves with peculiar
                     propriety:</p>

                  <p n="640">
                     <q>
                        <l>To dress, to dance, to sing, our sole delight,</l>
                        <l>The feast or bath by day, and love by night.</l>
                        <persName>Pope's</persName>
                        <persName>Homer</persName>.18</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="641">Our friend <persName>Mahine</persName> was perhaps the only person
                     among the nobility who did not enjoy that great degree of happiness which so
                     visibly reigned among the rest. He was not received with those distinguishing
                     marks of favour which had been lavished upon him at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>; for it seems, even in the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>, a man is no where less esteemed than in his own country.
                     All his relations, who were extremely numerous, expected presents as their due;
                     whilst at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> his liberality made him friends, and
                     procured him great advantages. As long as the generous youth had some of those
                     riches left, which he had collected at the peril of his life, on our dangerous
                     and dismal cruize, he was perpetually importuned to share them out; and though
                     he freely distributed all he had, some of his acquaintances complained that he
                     was niggardly. He was soon reduced to beg a supply of European wares from his
                     friends on board, having only saved a few red feathers, and some other
                     curiosities, as a present for <persName>O-Poonee</persName>, the king of
                        <placeName>Borabora</placeName>, to whom he was related. Under these
                     disagreeable circumstances, he longed to return to
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, and told us he was resolved to settle
                     there, as soon as he should have visited <persName>Poonee</persName> and his
                     other relations at <placeName>Borabora</placeName>. He would willingly have
                     embarked with us again for <placeName>England</placeName>, if we had given him
                     the least hope of returning to the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>; but
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> having told him, that no ship would ever
                     be sent to his islands again, he deprived himself of the pleasure of seeing our
                     country, rather than part for ever from his native groves. When we reflect on
                     the fate of his countryman, <persName>O-Maï</persName>, we have some reason to
                     think this determination fortunate for his heart and morals. The splendour of
                        <placeName>England</placeName> remains unknown to him; but at the same time
                     he has no idea of those enormities which disgrace the opulent capitals of the
                     world.</p>

                  <p n="642">After the dance was over, <persName>Mahine</persName> invited us to the
                     district in which his lands were situated. He had frequently told us, that he
                     had possessions in this island; but as some of our people had doubted of his
                     veracity, he was glad to take an opportunity of justifying himself.
                        <date>[Monday 30.]</date>The next morning therefore, at day break, we set
                     off in two boats, and taking on board <persName>Orea</persName> and all his
                     family, we arrived, after two hours sail, at
                        <placeName>Wharai-te-Vah</placeName>, a district at the north-east end of
                     the island. We were welcomed by <persName>Mahine</persName> and two of his
                     elder brothers, and conducted to a spacious house. A fire was immediately made
                     in a hole in the ground, and some large stones heated. With the same
                     preparations, which are already described by <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     in his former voyage<ref target="#edn202">
                        <note xml:id="edn202" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 152. </note>
                     </ref>, a large hog was killed, cleaned, wrapped in fresh leaves, and put into
                     the hole or oven, and covered with hot stones and a heap of earth. Whilst it
                     continued to be stewed there, with a quantity of fruit, my father, with
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and myself, went up the neighbouring
                     hills, where we found nothing new, though we were at least seven or eight miles
                     from our ship. After a walk of two hours we returned, and in a short time our
                     dinner was served up on green leaves. The fat of the entrails, together with
                     the blood, had been wrapped up separately in a few leaves, and the fattest
                     chiefs and arreoys in company immediately seized upon, and swallowed them by
                     handfuls. The rest dined with an uncommon degree of voracity; whilst a great
                     croud of towtows, with their greedy looks, devoured the feast, of which they
                     did not taste a single morsel. Some share of the pork was given to
                        <persName>Orea's</persName> wife and daughter, who carefully wrapped it up,
                     in order to eat it apart. Thus it seems, that though the hog was wholly
                     dressed, prepared, and distributed by men, yet this did not make it improper
                     for the women to partake of it. At other times, it appears, that different
                     persons cannot eat what has been touched by one or other of the same family<ref target="#edn203">
                        <note xml:id="edn203" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II.19 </note>
                     </ref>; we are therefore unable to conceive by what rule their custom of eating
                     separately is conducted. The Taheitians are not the only people who do not eat
                     with their women; several nations of negroes, and even the natives of
                        <placeName>Labrador</placeName>, have adopted the same idea. From the
                     general conduct of these African and Eskimaux tribes, an unnatural contempt for
                     the sex appears to be their motive for this unsociable custom. But as the
                     Taheitian women are very kindly treated, and highly esteemed by the men, the
                     custom must have some other origin among them, which a connected series of
                     accurate observations may perhaps in time lead us to discover.</p>

                  <p n="643">The captain had taken with him a few bottles of brandy, which, mixed
                     with water, makes the favourite liquor of sailors, called grog. The arreoys and
                     some other chiefs, finding it strong, and almost as nauseous as their
                     pepper-root drink, drank very freely of it, and afterwards took some small cups
                     of pure brandy, which they relished so well, and repeated so often, that they
                     were soon obliged to lie down to sleep. We returned to the ship about
                        <time>five o'clock in the afternoon</time>; and the day being remarkably
                     warm, we went ashore to bathe in a beautiful fountain, which we had constantly
                     made use of for that purpose during our stay. A fragrant shrubbery hung round
                     it, screening from the sun the water, which was temperately cool, and perfectly
                     limpid. We found the use of this bath extremely refreshing; and the natives had
                     probably experienced the same effect, as they constantly resorted to it every
                     morning and evening. Such pleasing spots are frequent in these islands; they
                     contribute greatly to their embellishment, and without doubt, are instrumental
                     in preserving the health of the inhabitants.</p>

                  <p n="644">We passed the next days in various excursions towards the hills, where
                     we collected a few plants, which we had not met with before. These hills
                     exactly resembled those of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but were somewhat
                     lower. We found a romantic valley between them, surrounded by a forest of
                     various trees and shrubs, and furnished with a beautiful rivulet, which fell in
                     many cascades over broken rocks and precipices.</p>

                  <p n="645">
                     <date>[1774. June.][Thusday 2.]</date>On our returning from our last walk, we
                     received a very interesting piece of intelligence from the natives. One of
                     them, just arrived from the island <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, told us that
                     two ships lay at anchor there, one of them considerably larger than ours, but
                     the other about the same size. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> called the man
                     into his cabin, where he repeated the same story to us, and confirmed it, by
                     asserting that he had been on board the lesser ship, and had been made drunk
                     there. We enquired for the names of the captains, and he told us that of the
                     greater ship was Tabane, and the other Tonno. These were the names by which the
                     natives designed <persName>Mr. Banks</persName> and <persName>captain
                        Furneaux</persName>. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> was therefore
                     surprised to hear them named, and enquired of what stature these persons were.
                     The native very readily told us, that the one whom he called
                        <persName>Tabane</persName> was a tall man, but the other considerably less.
                     This answer corresponded extremely well with truth; but as it was very
                     improbable that <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> would remain at
                        <placeName>Huahine</placeName>, after hearing that his senior officer lay so
                     near him, we concluded that the ships must belong to some other nation. At our
                     return to the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, we heard that
                        <persName>captain Furneaux</persName> had sailed from that settlement long
                     before the time when he was supposed to be at <placeName>Huahine</placeName>,
                     and that <persName>Mr. Banks</persName> had not left
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>. We have since learnt that <persName>M. St.
                        Denis</persName> a French navigator, has been in the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName> at the time in question with two ships.</p>

                  <p n="646">The chief, <persName>O-Rea</persName>, at first confirmed this news,
                     but afterwards suspecting that it might hasten our departure, he was unwilling
                     to give his opinion, and seeming to doubt of the truth of the report, always
                     abruptly changed the subject of conversation, with all the art of an European
                     politician.20</p>

                  <p n="647">The next day the natives came in great numbers to the ship with
                     abundance of provisions, which they sold very <date>[Friday 3.]</date>cheap, as
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> proposed to sail the next day. His store
                     of hatchets and knives had been expended long ago; our armourer was therefore
                     set to work to make new ones, which were ill-shapen, and of very little worth,
                     particularly the knives, which were made of pieces of iron hoops. The natives
                     were contented with them, not knowing how to distinguish the good from the bad
                     by the eye. They sometimes picked our pockets, or stole what we did not
                     sufficiently look after; but their simplicity now gave room for a severe
                     retaliation.21</p>

                  <p n="648">Among the natives of the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName> there
                     are a few men who preserve the national traditions, together with all their
                     ideas of mythology and astronomy. <placeName>Mahine</placeName>, whilst we were
                     at sea, had frequently spoken of them as the most learned of his countrymen,
                     and named them Tata-o-Rerro, which we would express by <hi rend="italics">teachers</hi>. After much enquiry, we found a chief, named
                        <persName>Tootavaï</persName>, in the district of
                        <placeName>Hamaneno</placeName>, who was distinguished by this epithet. As
                     our departure was so near at hand, we regretted that we had not known him
                     sooner; but my father determined to employ his remaining time in making
                     enquiries on a subject so interesting as the history of religious opinions.</p>

                  <p n="649">
                     <persName>Tootavaï</persName> was pleased with an opportunity of displaying his
                     knowledge; he was flattered with the attention which we paid to his words, and
                     therefore continued to converse on the same subject with much greater patience
                     and perseverance, than we could have expected from a lively inhabitant of these
                     islands. The religion of the islanders appears to be as singular a system of
                     polytheism as ever was invented. Few nations are so wretched, and so wholly
                     occupied with the means of preserving their existence, as to lay aside all
                     ideas of a creator. These ideas rather seem to have remained traditionally
                     among mankind, ever since the first ages, when the Deity revealed himself.
                     Agreeably to this opinion, the people of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and
                     the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName> have preserved this spark of divine
                     instruction, and believe the existence of a Supreme Being, the maker and
                     progenitor of all things, visible and invisible. It has been the fate of most
                     nations to investigate more or less the qualities of this universal and
                     incomprehensible spirit, and to adopt absurdities, by overstepping the bounds
                     prescribed by the Creator himself to our senses and mental faculties. The
                     different attributes of the Deity were soon personified by narrow minds, which
                     could not contain the vast idea of supreme perfection. Gods and goddesses then
                     became innumerable, and one error still gave birth to many more. Man, in the
                     course of education, received from his father the knowledge of a God; and a
                     spontaneous principle within him cherished this idea. Population encreased, the
                     distinctions of ranks took place, and proportionately influenced the
                     gratification of the senses. In every society, some individual or other took
                     advantage of the general propensity to adore, endeavoured to captivate the
                     judgment of the multitude, and by misrepresenting and separating the qualities
                     of the Almighty, converted the filial affection of mankind towards their
                     benefactor into a jealous dread of his anger. At the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName> I apprehend this to be the case: they adore divinities
                     of all sorts and qualities; but what is most singular, every island has a
                     separate theogony. This will appear more clearly by comparing the following
                     account with the observations on their religion in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> first voyage<ref target="#edn204">
                        <note xml:id="edn204" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 237, &amp;c. </note>
                     </ref>. <persName>Tootavàï</persName> began with telling us, that in every
                     island of this group, they gave the supreme God, creator of earth and skies, a
                     different name; or, to express it more clearly, that in every island they
                     believe a different deity, though always one of those which are known to them
                     all, to hold the first rank. Thus at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Eimeo</placeName>, they say the Supreme Being is
                        <persName>O-Rooa-hattoo</persName>; at <placeName>Huahine</placeName> they
                     maintain that it is <persName>Tanè</persName>; at
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName>, <persName>O-Roò</persName>; at
                        <placeName>O-Tahà</placeName>, <persName>Orra</persName>; at
                        <placeName>Bolabola</placeName>, <persName>Taoòtoo</persName>; at
                        <placeName>Mowrua</placeName>, <persName>O-Too</persName>; and at
                        <placeName>Tabbooa-mannoo</placeName> (<placeName>Sir Charles Saunders's
                        Island</placeName>) <persName>Taròä</persName>. Thirteen divinities preside
                     over the sea, and govern it; viz. 1. <persName>Ooroohàddoo</persName>. 2.
                        <persName>Tama-ooee</persName>. 3. <persName>Ta-apèe</persName>. 4.
                        <persName>O-Tooareeònoo</persName>. 5. <persName>Tanèea</persName>. 6.
                        <persName>Tahou-meònna</persName>. 7. <persName>Orà-mauwe</persName>. 8.
                        <persName>O-Whaï</persName>. 9. <persName>O-Whàtta</persName>. 10.
                        <persName>Tahòoa</persName>. 11. <persName>Te-ootya</persName>. 12.
                        <persName>O-Mahooroo</persName>. 13. <persName>O-Whàddoo</persName>. But
                     notwithstanding all these governors, a different divinity,
                        <persName>Oo-marrèo</persName>, is said to have created the sea. The same
                     case exists with regard to the sun, which was created by
                        <persName>O-Maïwee</persName>, a powerful god, who causes earthquakes. The
                     divinity which resides in, and governs the sun, is called
                        <persName>Tootòomo-hororìrree</persName>. They have ventured to attribute to
                     this deity a beautiful human form, whose hair descends down to his feet. They
                     assert, that the deceased go thither to dwell with him, and are continually
                     feasted there with bread-fruit and pork, which need no preparation from the
                     fire. They believe every man to have a separate being within him, named
                        <persName>Tee</persName> and lodges in the wooden images, which are placed
                     round the burying-places, and which are called by the same name, tee. Thus the
                     belief of a future existence, and that of the combination of matter and spirit,
                     have reached the remotest islands of the earth. Whether they have any idea of
                     rewards and punishments in a future state, we could not learn; but it is most
                     reasonable to suppose that such ideas have occurred to a nation so far advanced
                     as the Taheitians. The moon was created by a female divinity, named
                        <persName>O-Heenna</persName>, who likewise governs that planet, and resides
                     in its black spot or cloud. The women sing a short couplet, which seems to be
                     an act of adoration paid to that divinity, perhaps because they suppose her to
                     have some influence upon their physical œconomy.22</p>

                  <p n="650">
                     <q>
                        <l> Te-Oòwa no te Màlama,</l>
                        <l> Te-òowa te heenàrro.23</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="651">
                     <q>
                        <l> The cloud within the moon,</l>
                        <l> That cloud I love! ______</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="652">We may venture to suppose, that the Taheitian goddess of the moon is
                     not the chaste <persName>Diana</persName> of the ancients, but rather the
                     Phœnician <persName>Astarte</persName>. The stars were created by a goddess
                     called <persName>Tettoo-mataròu</persName>, and the winds are governed by the
                     god <persName>Orree-òrree</persName>.</p>

                  <p n="653">Besides these greater divinities, they have a considerable number of
                     inferior orders, some of whom are said to be mischievous, and to kill men in
                     their sleep.24 They are worshipped publicly at the principal maraïs, or
                     monuments of stone, by the Tahowa-rahaï, or high-priest of the island.25 The
                     beneficent gods are addressed in prayers, which are not pronounced aloud, but
                     are distinguished and made known only by the motion of the lips. The priest
                     looks up to the skies, and the eatua, or god, is supposed to come down and hold
                     converse with him, unseen by all the people, and heard by none but the priest
                     himself. Surely this is an evident mark of the influence of priestcraft, whose
                     great aim is ever to veil religion in mystery. From a principle directly
                     opposite to this, the Christian doctrine derives one of those incontestible
                     characters of a divine origin, which distinguish it from all the deceitful
                     inventions of human understanding, and carry persuasion to the mind. This
                     religion does not wear the mysterious cloak, which can only serve to cover
                     darkness, but appears to us divested of all kinds of trappings, and throws a
                     pure and steady light around. It admits of no mystery, and its true and
                     venerable ministers have at all times assured and convinced us, that they
                     reserved no private knowledge for themselves, which was not communicated to the
                     meanest of those who bow the knee to their pure and divine Creator; " for all
                     shall know him, from the least to the greatest." Hebr. viii. ii.</p>

                  <p n="654">Offerings are made to the gods, of hogs and poultry roasted, and of all
                     kinds of eatables; but the inferior, and particularly the malevolent spirits,
                     are only revered by a kind of hissing. Some of these spirits are said to come
                     into the houses of the natives at night, and to kill them; others are said to
                     inhabit a certain deserted island named <placeName>Mannua</placeName>,26 where
                     they are visible in the shape of strong, tall men, with fiery eyes, and devour
                     those who happen to approach their coast: but this rather alludes to the
                     anthropophagy, which, as I have before observed, seems to have existed at these
                     islands, previous to their present state of civilization.27 A number of plants
                     are particularly sacred to the deities. The casuarina, the coco-palm, and the
                     banana, are frequently planted near maraïs, or public places of worship. A
                     species of <hi rend="italics">cratœva</hi>, a sort of pepper, the <hi rend="italics">hibiscus populneus</hi>, the <hi rend="italics">dracœna
                        terminalis</hi>, and the <hi rend="italics">calophyllum</hi>, are all
                     found in the same places, and are alike considered as signs of peace and
                     friendship. Some birds, such as a species of heron, king's-fisher, and cuckoo,
                     are also consecrated to the deity; but I have already mentioned, that they are
                     not held in equal veneration by all the people; and it is also to be observed,
                     that different islands protect different birds.</p>

                  <p n="655">The priests of these islands continue in office during their life, and
                     their dignity is hereditary. The high-priest of every island is always an aree,
                     who has the highest rank after the king. They are consulted upon many important
                     occasions, partake largely of the good things of the country, and in short have
                     found means to make themselves necessary. Besides the priests, there is also in
                     every district one or two teachers, or tata-o-rerro, like Tootavaï, who are
                     skilled in theogony and cosmogony, and at certain times instruct the people in
                     these things. The same persons likewise preserve the knowledge of geography,
                     together with their ideas of astronomy and the division of time. They have the
                     names of fourteen lunar months, in the following order:28 1. O-Pororo-moòa. 2.
                     O-Pororo-mooree. 3. Moorehàh. 4. Oohee-eiya. 5. O-Whirre-ammà;. 6. Taòwa. 7.
                     O-Whirre-erre-erre. 8. O-Tearree. 9. Ote-tàï. 10. Wàrehoo. 11. Wàhou. 12.
                     Pippirree. 13. E-Oonoònoo. 14. Oo-mannoo. The first seven months collectively
                     are called Ooroo, or a bread-fruit season; but in what manner they arrange
                     these months, in order to effect a complete cycle or a year, is a mystery to us
                     at present. It should seem that some of the months, especially the second and
                     seventh, are intercalary, from the resemblance of their names to those of the
                     first and fifth, and that they are inserted in different years. Each of the
                     lunations consists of twenty-nine days. During the two last days of the
                     lunation, they say the moon is dead, because it does not appear; it is
                     therefore plain that they begin to count from the moon's first appearance, and
                     not from the real time of the conjunction. The twenty-fifth day of the
                     thirteenth moon, E-Oonoonoo, was our third of June, when we obtained this
                     information.</p>

                  <p n="656">The name of tahowa, which the Taheitians apply to priests, is not
                     entirely confined to them, but is also given to those persons who know the
                     virtues of a few plants, which are used as remedies against different
                     disorders. Their medicines are few, and very simple, but their diseases are not
                     manifold and complicated.29</p>

                  <p n="657">As soon as we had obtained these accounts from
                        <persName>Tootavaï</persName>, the ship unmoored, on the fourth of June,
                     about ten in the morning. The king of <placeName>Raietea</placeName>,
                        <persName>Oo-ooroo</persName>, to whom the conqueror
                        <persName>O-Poonee</persName> had left the title and honour of royalty,
                     visited us with some of his relations, just before our departure.
                        <persName>O-Rea</persName> with his family was likewise on board, and
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> with his relations came to take their leave. The
                     parting scene was extremely affecting; all our friends shed tears plentifully,
                     but poor <persName>Mahine's</persName> heart seemed torn to pieces by the
                     violence of his grief. He ran from cabin to cabin, and embraced every one of
                     us, without being able to speak a single word. His tears, his sighs and looks
                     were eloquent beyond description. At last the ship set sail; he got into his
                     canoe, and continued standing upright, whilst all his countrymen were seated.
                     He looked at us, then hung down his head, and hid it in his garments. When we
                     had cleared the reefs, we still perceived him to wave his extended arms; and he
                     continued his addresses till we could no longer discern him.</p>

                  <p n="658">Thus we left an amiable nation, who, with all their imperfections, are
                     perhaps more innocent and pure of heart, than those who are more refined and
                     better instructed. Without quoting the example of <persName>Mahine</persName>,
                     we have often been witnesses to reciprocal acts of kindness,. which convinced
                     us, that the social virtues are frequently exercised amongst themselves. I have
                     seen a single bread-fruit, or a few coco-nuts shared between a number of
                     people, so that every one partook of them. I have observed them parting with
                     their cloaths, and doing several charitable actions to each other, with the
                     same good-will which they expressed towards us. We should indeed be ungrateful,
                     if we did not acknowledge the kindness with which they always treated us; they
                     were ready to carry us on their backs in and out of our boats, to prevent the
                     surf from wetting our feet; they often loaded themselves with the curiosities
                     which we had purchased; and rarely refused to go into the water in quest of any
                     bird which we had shot. If the rain caught us on our excursions, or the heat of
                     the sun and the fatigue of the journey oppressed us, we were invited to repose
                     in their dwellings, and feasted on their best provisions; our friendly host
                     stood at a distance, and never tasted any thing till we entreated him; whilst
                     some of the family were employed in fanning us with a leaf, or the bough of a
                     tree. Before we left the house we were commonly adopted, according to our
                     different ages, in the quality of fathers, brothers, or sons.30 This
                     circumstance was owing to an opinion that we were all related. The chiefs in
                     all the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName> are descended from the same
                     family; our officers, therefore, and all those who dined or messed together,
                     were by them considered as relations. They supposed that <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> and my father were brothers, purely from this reason; for,
                     with all their good heart, they are but indifferent physiognomists. Their
                     hospitality towards us was frequently quite disinterested; and gave us a right
                     to form the most flattering conclusions in regard to their conduct towards each
                     other. They are hospitable without seeming to know it; and leave to strangers
                     who visit them, the pleasing and grateful task of recording their virtues.</p>

               </div>
               <div n="8" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VIII.<lb/>
                     Run from the Society to the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="659">
                     <date>[1774. June.]</date>WE fired a salute of several guns on leaving the
                        <placeName>island of Raietea</placeName>, <date>[Saturday 4.]</date>in
                     honour of his majesty's birth day; and this discharge of our artillery afforded
                     no small entertainment to the inhabitants. During the six weeks which we had
                     spent at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>, we had been well refreshed, and were perfectly
                     recovered from our bilious and scorbutic complaints: a venereal disorder was,
                     however, the reward of those, that</p>

                  <p n="660">
                     <q>
                        <l> ________with unbashful forehead, woo'd</l>
                        <l> The means of sickness and debility.</l>
                        <persName>Shakespeare</persName>.1</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="661">Nearly one half of our crew were afflicted with this nauseous and
                     shameful disease; though it was in general less virulent than in
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>. Our conversations with
                        <persName>Mahine</persName> on its ravages, gave us the greatest reason to
                     be convinced, that it existed at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName> previous to <persName>captain
                        Wallis's</persName> voyage in 1768. <persName>Mahine</persName> frequently
                     assured us, that several years before that period, his mother died of this
                     disease at <placeName>Borabora</placeName>. Its appearance has therefore been
                     attributed to a wrong cause in various parts of the world. For the space of
                     near three centuries the Spaniards have been accused by physicians, and
                     detested by moralists, for bringing the infection from
                        <placeName>America</placeName>, which is now incontrovertibly proved to have
                     begun in <placeName>Europe</placeName>, previous to the discovery of
                           <placeName>America<ref target="#edn206">
                           <note xml:id="edn206" anchored="true"> See Petr. Martyr. ab Angleria.
                              Decad. American. __<hi rend="italics">Dissertation sur l'Origine de
                                 la Maladie</hi>
                              <hi rend="italics">Venerienne</hi>, par M. Sanchez. Paris, 1752. __
                                 <hi rend="italics">Examen historique sur l'Apparition de la
                                 Maladie</hi>
                              <hi rend="italics">Venerienne en <placeName>Europe</placeName>
                              </hi>. Lisbonne, 1774. __and others. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. The English and French navigators have charged each other with
                     the introduction of this detestable disorder among the harmless and hospitable
                     Taheitians; though they have long been acquainted with it, and are not ignorant
                     of the art of curing it<ref target="#edn207">
                        <note xml:id="edn207" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 233. </note>
                     </ref>. Nay, it seems that their simple diet, the salubrity of their climate,
                     and a long space of time, have abated the acrimony of the <hi rend="italics">virus</hi>, and brought it to that inactive state to which it is now
                     reduced in <placeName>South America</placeName>. I am far from supposing, that
                     the venereal complaint has been carried to <placeName>America</placeName> from
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>; no, the same causes which could give birth to
                     it in one part of the world, are sufficient to produce it every where else. The
                     commerce of our crews with the women of <placeName>Tonga Tabboo</placeName>,
                     and the <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>: nay, their remarkable connections
                     with the salacious females of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, had no
                     sinister consequences. It may be inferred from thence, that the infection has
                     not yet broke out at those islands, though such inferences are sometimes
                        fallacious<ref target="#edn208">
                        <note xml:id="edn208" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 369. </note>
                     </ref>; for <persName>captain Wallis</persName> left
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> without having a single venereal patient,
                     though the distemper is now proved to have existed there before his arrival. It
                     is also beyond a doubt, that the New Zeelanders<ref target="#edn209">
                        <note xml:id="edn209" anchored="true"> Ibid. p. 239. </note>
                     </ref> were afflicted with this disorder before any Europeans had an
                     intercourse with them.2</p>

                  <p n="662">We passed the <placeName>island of Mowrua</placeName> in the afternoon,
                     and stood to the westward with a favourable trade-wind. On the 6th, at eleven
                     in the morning, we descried an island, which <persName>captain
                        Wallis</persName> named after <persName>lord Howe</persName>. It is very
                     low, consisting of coral ledges, which enclose a lagoon; and by its direction,
                     it appears to be the same which the natives of the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName> call <placeName>Mopeehàh</placeName>. We found it
                     situated in <geo select="lat">16° 46' S.</geo> lat. and <geo select="lon">154°
                        8' W.</geo> Several birds, called boobies,3 were seen in the neighbourhood
                     of this little isle, which was to appearance uninhabited.</p>

                  <p n="663">
                     <date>[Tuesday 7.]</date>The next day at noon the wind shifted, and became
                     contrary. During the whole afternoon it thundered and lightned, and we had
                     several smart showers. The night was calm; but we fixed the electric chain at
                     the mast-head, on account of the strong lightning which still continued. We had
                     so faint a breeze, with intervening calms, during the next three days, that we
                     made but slow advances. Tropic-birds and noddies visited us during this time;
                     and our crew had the mortification of losing a great shark, after they had
                     hooked and shot him with three bullets.</p>

                  <p n="664">On the 11th, in the morning, the wind freshened again, and pushed us on
                     to the W. S. W. for two days, at the expiration of which we had calms and foul
                     winds to cope with, and saw frequent flashes of lightning at night. Seafowl of
                     different sorts, and fishes, such as bonitos, dolphins, sharks, and grampusses,
                     appeared about us at different times.</p>

                  <p n="665">
                     <date>[Thursday 16.]</date>On the 16th, in the morning, at <time>eight
                        o'clock</time>, we discovered another low island. We were close to it about
                     three in the afternoon, and sailed round it, without finding a landing place or
                     harbour. It consisted of eight different isles, connected by reefs, and covered
                     with trees, particularly coco-palms, which made it look remarkably pleasant.
                     Vast flocks of aquatic birds appeared about it, from whence we concluded, that
                     it was likewise uninhabited. In some parts there were extensive sandy beaches,
                     where turtles probably resort to lay their eggs. The sea was also full of good
                     fish, of different sorts, about us. This pretty little spot was named
                     Palmerston Island, and lies in <geo select="lat">18° 4' S.</geo> lat. and <geo select="lon">163° 10' W.</geo>
                  </p>

                  <p n="666">
                     <date>[Monday 20.]</date>We continued steering to the W. S. W. till the 20th,
                     when we saw an island in the afternoon,4 of some elevation, on which, before
                     sunset, we could discern the trees. We tacked all night to windward, and at the
                     return of daylight stood towards it. Having approached within about two miles,
                     we ran along the shore, which now appeared steep and rocky, with here and there
                     a narrow sandy beach at the foot of the rock. It was nearly level every where,
                     and its greatest height seemed not to exceed forty feet; but it was covered
                     with woods and shrubberies along the summit. About <time>ten o'clock</time>, we
                     perceived seven or eight people running close to the water's edge. They seemed
                     to be of a blackish colour, and were naked; something white was wrapped about
                     their heads and loins, and each had a spear, a club, or a paddle in his hand.
                     In several chasms between the rocks, we observed a few small canoes hauled upon
                     the shore. We now likewise took notice of some coco-nut trees, of no great
                     height, which stood on the slope of the rocks. Two boats were hoisted out,
                     armed and manned, in which the captain, accompanied by <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, my father, and myself,
                     went ashore. A reef of coral surrounds the whole coast at a short distance; but
                     having found an opening, where the surf was not dangerous, we landed, and
                     climbed up one of the adjacent rocks, where we posted some of our sailors and
                     marines. It consisted entirely of sharp and craggy coral, and was covered with
                     a variety of small shrubby plants, common to the low islands. Besides these, we
                     found some new species, all which grew between the crevices of the coral,
                     without the least atom of soil. Some curlews, snipes, and herons, of the same
                     sort which we had observed at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, likewise
                     appeared on this island. Having walked among the bushes, at the distance of
                     about fifty yards from the water, we heard a loud halloo, upon which we retired
                     to the rock, where our people had taken post. We now learnt that
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, having walked up a long deep gulley,
                     which lay before us, had entered the woods at a little distance from us. He had
                     not proceeded far, when he heard somebody tumbling down from a tree. He
                     supposed it was one of us, and called out to us, but was presently undeceived
                     by the shouts of the Indian. We now called to the natives in those
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> dialects which we were acquainted with,
                     that we were friends, and desired them to come down to us. They were heard
                     talking and shouting to each other for some time; and presently one of them
                     appeared at the entrance of the gulley. His body was blackened as far as the
                     waist; his head was ornamented with feathers placed upright, and in his hand he
                     held a spear. Behind him we heard many voices in the chasm, though the trees
                     prevented our seeing the people. At last a young man, to all appearance without
                     a beard, stepped forward, and joined the first. He was like him blackened, and
                     had a long bow, like those of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, in his right
                     hand. With the left he instantly flung a very large stone, with so much
                     accuracy, as to hit <persName>Dr. Sparrman's</persName> arm a violent blow, at
                     the distance of forty yards. The pain which it occasioned irritated my friend
                     so much, that he let fly at his enemy; but it did not appear that the small
                     shot had any effect. Both the natives retired soon after; and though we staid
                     here for some time, performing the idle ceremony of taking possession, we saw
                     nothing more of the inhabitants. After we had resumed our course along shore in
                     the boats, we saw the people coming to the water's side at the place which we
                     had left. The appearance of the coast was still the same as we advanced. We
                     landed at the hazard of our necks in another place, which we left as soon as
                     the boat's crew called out, that they perceived the natives above us. We
                     continued till we came to a considerable chasm in the rock, before which a flat
                     reef, full of holes and cavities, extended about fifty yards off shore. We drew
                     up a line of sailors on the reef, and the captain with us walked into the
                     chasm, where we found four canoes. They were very nearly of the same structure
                     with those of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and had some carving, but
                     were not so neatly wrought. They were single, and had strong out-riggers. Some
                     were covered with coarse mats, and contained fishing-lines, spears, and pieces
                     of wood, which appeared to have served as matches for fishing at night. The
                     captain laid a small present of beads, nails, and medals on each canoe; but
                     whilst he was so employed, I perceived a troop of natives coming down the
                     chasm, and instantly acquainting our company of it, we all retired a few steps.
                     Two of the natives, dressed with feathers, and blackened as the other before
                     mentioned, advanced towards us with furious shouts, and spears in their hands.
                     We called in friendly terms to them; but to no purpose. The captain endeavoured
                     to discharge his musket, but it missed fire. He desired us to fire in our own
                     defence, and the same thing happened to us all. The natives threw two spears:
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> narrowly escaped one of them by stooping;
                     the other slid along my thigh, marking my cloaths with the black colour with
                     which it was daubed. We tried to fire again, and at last my piece, loaded with
                     small shot, went off, and <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> fired a ball, which
                     did no execution. At the same time a regular firing began behind us from our
                     party, who having observed our retreat, had likewise viewed another troop of
                     the natives coming down by a different path to cut us off. The effect of the
                     small shot fortunately stopped the natives from rushing upon us, and gave us
                     time to retreat to our men, who continued to fire with great eagerness, while
                     any of the natives remained in sight. Two of these in particular, standing
                     among the bushes, brandished their weapons in defiance a considerable while,
                     but at last retired, one of them appearing to be wounded, by the dismal howl
                     which we heard presently after. We now embarked, and resolved to abandon a set
                     of people, whom no entreaties could prevail upon to become our friends. The
                     nature of their country, which is almost inaccessible, seems to have
                     contributed to make their tempers so unsociable. The whole island is purely a
                     coral-rock, like that of the low islands, on which we saw very few coco-palms,
                     and no useful trees. I have therefore formed a conjecture, that the interior
                     parts are not so barren, but fit for the culture of nutritive vegetables. The
                     general resemblance of this island to a coral ledge raised out of the water,
                     almost leads me to suspect that it includes a fertile plain, which was once a
                     lagoon.5 Whether a convulsion of the globe, or any other cause, lifted such a
                     large piece of coral-rock forty feet above water, is a point which must be left
                     to future philosophers to determine. The boats and arms of the natives
                     resembled those of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and it is therefore
                     probable that the people have the same origin; but their numbers are
                     inconsiderable, and their civilization little advanced, since they are savage,
                     and go naked. Their island seems to be about three leagues long, and was called
                        <placeName>Savage Island</placeName>. It is situated in <geo select="lat">19° 1' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">169° 37' W.</geo>
                  </p>

                  <p n="667">Having reached the ship, the boats were hoisted in, and the next
                     morning we continued our course to the westward. A large high-finned whale,
                     which was seen near the ship, spouted up the water, and several birds and fish
                     attended us as usual.</p>

                  <p n="668">On the twenty-fourth at night we lay to, as we expected to be very near
                        <placeName>A Namoka</placeName>, or <placeName>Rotterdam Island</placeName>,
                     one of the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName> discovered by
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> in 1643. Breakers were heard a-head at <time>two
                        o'clock</time>, and the land appeared at day-break. <date>[Saturday
                        25.]</date>We stood for it, and soon found it to consist of several low
                     islands, connected by a vast reef. Another great reef lay to the northward, and
                     we passed between them. At noon a canoe came off towards us, though the nearest
                     land was above a league distant. We discerned two men in it, who stood on a
                     long while, but at last, seeing that the ship gained upon them, they put about
                     and returned. We could not help admiring the difference between this race, and
                     the savages whom we had so lately left, and agreed that the name Friendly was
                     very justly given to them. The wind slackened all the afternoon, and died away
                     to a perfect calm during night. We approached so near one of the reefs by this
                     means, that we ran great risk of being wrecked; but a breeze springing up in
                     the morning, we were out of danger in a short time.</p>

                  <p n="669">
                     <date>[Sunday 26.]</date>The next morning we sailed between reefs and small
                     islands, which made the water smooth. The islands had a little more elevation
                     than the common coral islands; they were covered with groves and tufts of
                     trees, which gave them a most enchanting appearance. The houses were seen in
                     great numbers among the trees on the beach, and the islands had an air of
                     happiness and affluence. One of these little gardens rose at its east end into
                     a white perpendicular cliff, with something like horizontal strata. At our
                     distance it looked like the bastion of a ruined fort, and being fringed with
                     woods and palms, formed altogether a romantic view. Towards noon the wind
                     slackened, and canoes put off from different islands to visit us, though they
                     were above a league distant. Some of them worked so hard, that they were near
                     us in less than an hour; and when they were about a musket-shot off, they began
                     to call to us from time to time, still continuing to paddle towards us. Three
                     persons were in the canoe, exactly like the natives of
                        <placeName>Eä-oowhe</placeName> and <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>,
                     whom we had seen in October, 1773. When they were along-side, a few beads and
                     nails were presented to them, for which they immediately sent a bunch of
                     bananas, and some delicious shaddocks (<hi rend="italics">citrus</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">decumanus</hi>) on the deck, besides a bunch of the red
                     fruits of the palm-nut tree or pandang (<hi rend="italics">athrodactylis</hi>) which is a sign of friendship. This being done, they
                     sold us all the shaddocks and fruit which they had, and came on board. In the
                     mean while the other canoes arrived, and acted without the least caution, as if
                     we had been long acquainted. They taught us the names of all the islands in the
                     neighbourhood; that with the high cliff they called
                        <placeName>Terrefetchéâ</placeName>; the other, which we admired so much for
                     its beauty, <placeName>Tonooméa</placeName>: both these lay to the eastward of
                     us. <placeName>Mango-nooe</placeName> (great) and
                        <placeName>Mango-eetee</placeName> (little) were two islands to the west of
                     us; and to the S. W. beyond them lay <placeName>Namoka-nooee</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Namoka-eetee</placeName>; the first of which
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> has called <placeName>Rotterdam
                        Island</placeName>, or <placeName>Anamocka</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="670">After dinner the breeze freshened, and we sailed towards
                        <placeName>Namoka</placeName>, which was the largest island of this group.
                     The number of canoes encreased about us; they came from all the neighbouring
                     islands with fruit, fish, and pigs, all which they disposed of for nails and
                     rags.</p>

                  <p n="671">We had soundings all the day between these islands, at first in forty
                     and fifty, and afterwards, when we came nearer, in nine, twelve, fourteen, and
                     twenty fathom. About <time>four o'clock</time>, having hauled round the south
                     end of Namoka, we came to, on the lee or west side of it, where
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> formerly lay. Our distance from the shore was
                     about a mile. The coast of the island rose fifteen or twenty feet nearly
                     perpendicular, after which it appeared almost level, having only a single
                     hillock near the middle. This steep shore had some resemblance to the coast of
                        <placeName>Savage Island</placeName>, which we had lately left, but the
                     richness of its woods was infinitely greater. Innumerable coco-nut palms
                     out-topped the woods, and ornamented the island on all sides.</p>

                  <p n="672">Whilst we were coming to an anchor, one of the natives caught the lead,
                     and tore the line which one of our people was heaving. He was desired to return
                     it, but took no notice of the captain who spoke to him. A musket with ball was
                     fired through his canoe; upon which he calmly removed to the other side of the
                     ship. Our demand was repeated, and proving ineffectual again, was enforced by a
                     load of small-shot, which made him smart. He instantly paddled to the head of
                     the ship, where a rope hung overboard, to which he tied the line and lead. His
                     countrymen were not satisfied with this restitution; they turned him out of his
                     canoe, and made him swim on shore, whilst they continued to trade with us. They
                     sold us coco-nuts, excellent yams, bread fruit, bananas, shaddocks, and other
                     fruit. They also brought purple water-hens6 alive, and a fine well-tasted <hi rend="italics">sparus</hi>7ready dressed in leaves; also a curious stringy
                     root baked, which contained a very nourishing pulp, of such a sweetness, as if
                     it had been boiled in sugar. All these things were eagerly bought for nails,
                     which were esteemed according to their size, and for pieces of our cloth. Their
                     canoes, their persons, dress, customs and language so entirely resembled those
                     of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, that we could perceive no difference.
                     As this island is at a short distance from Namoka, it is not improbable that
                     the inhabitants of the latter might have heard of our arrival there in October,
                     1773.</p>

                  <p n="673">
                     <date>[Monday 27.]</date>The next morning <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     landed early in a sandy cove, which is accurately described by
                        <persName>Tasman</persName>.8 It is enclosed by a reef, and has a narrow
                     entrance for boats at the south end. It is so shallow, that our boats could
                     only come in at high water. The captain purchased a pig, and was conducted to a
                     pond of fresh water at a short distance from the beach, the same where
                        <persName>Tasman</persName> had supplied his ships with water. The
                     hospitality of the natives was exercised in its utmost extent, and one of the
                     handsomest ladies of the island complimented the captain with an offer, which
                     was not accepted. Having examined the watering-place, he returned on board to
                     breakfast, and gave strict orders, that no person infected with or lately cured
                     of venereal complaints should be suffered to go on shore, and that no woman
                     should be admitted in the ship. A number of ladies came off in several canoes,
                     and seemed very desirous of making acquaintance with our sailors; but after
                     paddling about the ship for some time, they were obliged to return to the
                     shore, very much discontented. Immediately after breakfast, <placeName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</placeName>, my father and myself accompanied <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> to the shore, where a trade commenced for shaddocks and
                     yams, which the natives sold us in prodigious quantities. Bananas and coco-nuts
                     were scarce in proportion, and bread-fruit still more rare, though the trees of
                     these sorts were very numerous. All the men went nearly naked, a slight
                     covering on the loins excepted; a few of them, however, and most of the women,
                     were drest from the waist to the ancles, in a piece of stiff painted cloth made
                     of bark, wrapped several times round them, or in mats.</p>

                  <p n="674">As soon as our boats reached the shore, the clamours of all those who
                     had something to sell became so excessively loud, that we hastened into the
                     country, whose aspect was very inviting. A considerable variety of plants
                     covered the ground in wild luxuriance; and the great number of plantations of
                     all sorts, made the whole island resemble a beautiful garden. The fences which
                     had confined the view at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, were here much
                     less frequent, and only enclosed one side of the path, leaving the other open
                     to the eye. The ground was not perfectly level in the interior parts, but rose
                     in several little hillocks lined with hedges and bushes, which formed a most
                     agreeable prospect. The path which we met with, sometimes went under long rows
                     of lofty trees, planted at considerable distances, between which the ground was
                     covered with the richest verdure; sometimes a thick and impenetrable arbour of
                     fragrant shrubberies vaulted over it for a considerable space, and hid it
                     entirely from the sun; sometimes plantations, and sometimes wilds appeared on
                     both sides. The houses of the natives were of a singular structure:9 their
                     height was about eight or nine feet; but the walls, which were not
                     perpendicular, but converged towards the bottom, were not above three or four
                     feet from the ground, and very neatly made of reeds. The roof converged into a
                     ridge at the top; so that the section of the house resembled a pentagon. It was
                     thatched, and the roof projected beyond the sloping walls of the house. In one
                     of the long sides there was always an opening about two feet square, and
                     eighteen inches from the ground, which served instead of a door. The length of
                     the house never exceeded thirty feet, and the breadth was commonly eight or
                     nine. The inside of these houses was always filled with large roots of yams,
                     which seem to be the chief support of the natives. To sleep upon them must be
                     extremely uncomfortable; and yet a few mats are only spread over them at night,
                     which custom has made acceptable to these people. Those narrow little stools,
                     on which the Taheitians rest the head, are extremely frequent here, and serve
                     the same purpose. We also observed several open sheds, on a few posts, like
                     some which we had seen at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. These were laid
                     out with mats, and seemed to be intended for their abode in the day-time. In
                     our ramble we passed by a number of these habitations, but saw very few
                     inhabitants, they being mostly at the trading place. Those whom we met were
                     always very civil, and bowed their heads, saying, <hi rend="italics">leleï</hi> (good), <hi rend="italics">woä</hi> (friend), or some such
                     word, to mark their good temper and disposition.10 They were our conductors;
                     they brought us flowers from the highest trees, and birds out of the water;
                     they often pointed out the finest plants to us, and taught us their names; we
                     needed only to shew them a plant, of which we wished to have specimens, and
                     they would go to any distance to procure it. Coco-nuts and shaddocks they
                     readily offered to us; and willingly carried great loads for us; a nail, a
                     bead, or even a small rag of cloth, being considered as a valuable present in
                     return. In a word, they were on all occasions ready to oblige us.</p>

                  <p n="675">In the course of our walk we found a large lake or lagoon of
                     salt-water, at the north end of the island, which at one place reached within a
                     few yards of the sea. It was about three miles long, and one wide. Three little
                     islands full of trees, arranged in the most picturesque manner, served to
                     ornament this fine piece of water, of which the shores also captivated the eye
                     by their variety and beauty. The inverted landscape on the water,11 rendered
                     this scene still more beautiful, especially as our point of view was an
                     eminence, where many tall trees and thick shrubberies screened us from the
                     sun.</p>

                  <p n="676">No island, which we had hitherto visited, had offered so great variety
                     of views to us in so small a space; nay, we had no where found such abundance
                     of beautiful flowers, so agreeably contrasting their various tints, and
                     mingling their sweet scents to perfume the air. The lake was full of
                     wild-ducks, and the woods and shores abounded with pigeons, parroquets, rails,
                     and small birds, which the natives brought for sale.</p>

                  <p n="677">At noon we returned to the trading place, where <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> had purchased a great quantity of fruit and roots, a few
                     fowls, and one or two small pigs. When we arrived on board, we found they had
                     been equally successful there in the purchase of provisions. The whole poop was
                     loaded with shaddocks, which we found a most delicious fruit, of excellent
                     flavour; and of yams we had laid in such a quantity, that we eat of them every
                     day for several weeks afterwards instead of biscuit. Arms and utensils, the
                     usual articles of trade of these islanders, had likewise been plentifully sold,
                     especially by several people who came in large double sailing canoes from the
                     neighbouring islands. While we were at dinner, one of our shipmates was
                     observed on shore, surrounded by a great croud of natives; but no further
                     notice was taken of him, though he made signals for a boat. One of our trading
                     boats, which was sent ashore as soon as the crew had dined, came near the place
                     where he was stationed, and took him on board. It proved to be our surgeon,
                        <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, who had been in the most imminent danger of
                     losing his life, by being carelessly left upon the island without support. From
                     his account it is very plain, that even among these kind and well-disposed
                     people, there were some villains who greatly resembled the wretches that infest
                     our civilized countries. He had left the landing place, and engaging a single
                     native in his service for a few beads, had rambled over great part of the
                     island. His success in shooting was considerable; the native carried eleven
                     ducks, with which he returned to the sandy cove. The boats having already left
                     that place, he was something disconcerted, and the croud pressed about him,
                     conscious that he was in their power. He walked therefore to the rocky shore,
                     just abreast of the ship, where our people saw him. In going thither, the man
                     who carried the ducks endeavoured to drop some of them; but <persName>Mr.
                        Patton</persName> luckily turning about at that moment, he picked them up
                     again. The croud now pressed close about him, and several of the men threatened
                     him with jagged spears, whilst nothing but the appearance of his fowling-piece
                     kept them in awe. Several women were set on by the men, to draw him off his
                     guard, by a thousand lascivious gestures and attitudes; but his situation was
                     of too serious a nature to permit him to attend to them. After some time a
                     canoe arrived from the ship, and <persName>Mr. Patton</persName> agreed with
                     the owner to carry him aboard for a nail, the last which he had left. Just as
                     he was stepping into the canoe, they snatched his fowling-piece from him, took
                     all his ducks except three, and sent away the canoe. He was greatly astonished
                     and alarmed, and resolved to return to the top of the rock, where he expected
                     to be more easily distinguished from the ship, from whence he hoped for
                     assistance. The natives now laid aside all reserve, and began to pluck at his
                     cloaths. He readily suffered them to snatch his cravat and handkerchief; but
                     they also seized his coat, and resumed their threatening gestures with such
                     violence, that he expected every moment would be his last. His anxiety and
                     agony cannot well be painted. He put his hands in all his pockets to search for
                     some instrument, a knife or the like, with which to defend himself; he found
                     nothing but a wretched tooth-pick case; he opened it, and held it out upon the
                     croud, who perceiving it hollow, instantly slew back to the distance of two or
                     three yards: he continued to point this formidable weapon against the enemy,
                     whose spears were still lifted against him. The meridian sun shone burning hot
                     upon him; he had walked the whole day, was spent with fatigue, and began to
                     despair of saving his life, when a handsome young woman, remarkable for her
                     flowing curls, which hung down on her bosom, took pity on his wretched
                     condition. She stepped forward from the croud, with the greatest humanity and
                     compassion expressed in her eye; innocence and goodness were so strongly marked
                     in her countenance, that it was impossible to distrust her. She approached, and
                     offered him a piece of shaddock, which was eagerly and thankfully accepted; and
                     gradually supplied him with more, till he had consumed the whole fruit. At last
                     the boats put off from the ship, at sight of which the whole croud dispersed;
                     only his generous benefactress, and an old man, who was her father, remained
                     sitting near <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, with that unconcern which a noble
                     and virtuous conduct inspires. She enquired for the name of her friend; he told
                     her that which the Taheitians had given him, <persName>Pateenee</persName>; and
                     she immediately adopted it, changing it into <persName>Patseenee</persName>. On
                     stepping into the boat, he gave her father and her a few presents, which he
                     borrowed from the crew, and with these they returned to their groves highly
                     pleased. When <persName>Mr. Patton</persName> came on board, he acquainted
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> with the danger to which he had been
                     exposed; but though he had only followed the example of many of his shipmates,
                     by reposing confidence in the natives, yet the loss of his fowling-piece was
                     considered as a proper punishment for his imprudence. The afternoon was spent
                     in different rambles on shore. My father, with a single sailor, walked over a
                     considerable part of the island, without the least molestation from the
                     inhabitants, and brought on board a number of new plants. No other complaints
                     arose against the natives this day, except some petty thefts, at which they
                     were expert like their brethren of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> and the
                        <persName>Society Islands</persName>.</p>

                  <p n="678">
                     <date>[Tuesday 28.]</date>The next morning early we discovered several islands
                     to the N. W. of us, which a haze in that quarter had hitherto screened from our
                     sight. The two westermost were high, one peaked, but the other12 more
                     extensive. A thick smoke arose from the last, on which, during the night, we
                     had observed a fire. The natives who came on board acquainted us that this fire
                     was constant, so that we concluded it to proceed from a volcano. They called
                     this island <placeName>Tofooa<ref target="#edn210">
                           <note xml:id="edn210" anchored="true">
                              <persName>Tasman</persName> calls it <placeName>Ama-Tofoa</placeName>
                              in his map. <hi rend="italics">Ama</hi> or <hi rend="italics">kama</hi> probably signifies a mountain. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, and the peak close to it <placeName>e-Ghao<ref target="#edn211">
                           <note xml:id="edn211" anchored="true">
                              <persName>Tasman</persName> calls it <placeName>Kaybay</placeName> in
                              his map. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. To the northward of these two we discerned thirteen low islands,
                     each of which the natives named to us.</p>

                  <p n="679">We hastened ashore after breakfast, to resume our enquiries. We soon
                     left the beach, where the natives were again assembled in great numbers of both
                     sexes. A most beautiful kind of lily (<hi rend="italics">crinum
                        asiaticum</hi>) was the first plant which we met with; and several others,
                     not less valuable, were collected soon after. We came to the watering-place,
                     which was a pond about a hundred or a hundred and fifty yards long, and fifty
                     broad; it contained stagnant water, which was somewhat tainted with a brackish
                     taste, and might perhaps have subterraneous communications with the salt
                     lagoon, which in one place adjoined to it. <persName>Lieutenant
                        Clerke</persName>, who superintended the waters, told us that his musket had
                     been nimbly snatched away by one of the natives, who instantly ran off with it.
                     We advanced to the salt lagoon, and botanized among the spacious mangroves
                     which surrounded it. These trees occupy a vast space of ground, and grow more
                     and more intricate by age. Their seeds do not drop off, but shoot down from the
                     top of the tree, till they reach the ground, where they take root, and spread
                     new branches. Whilst we were here, we heard three great guns fired; but the
                     sound being broken by many intervening objects, we suspected that they were
                     only muskets overcharged as usual, by some young gentlemen on a shooting party.
                     We left the lake soon after, and passed through a plantation, where the natives
                     bowed to us very kindly, and invited us to sit down amongst them. We were
                     desirous of making the most of our time, and therefore soon left them, and
                     returned to the fresh-water pond. Having fired a musket at some wild-ducks,
                     which were in great plenty, we were called to by <persName>Mr.
                        Gilbert</persName>, the master, who told us that a volley of small arms, and
                     three cannon had been fired to alarm and bring us back, because a fray had
                     happened between the natives and our people. We joined him in a few minutes,
                     and found with him the captain, and a file of marines, together with two
                     natives, who sat on their hams, and from time to time pronounced the word <hi rend="italics">wòa</hi>, which signifies " friend" . We supposed that the
                     theft of <persName>Mr. Clerke's</persName> musket had given occasion to this
                     disturbance; but this was too trifling a circumstance to be resented. The
                     cooper, in mending the water-cask, was not sufficiently attentive to his adze,
                     and one of the natives had snatched it up, and conveyed it away. The captain,
                     in order to recover this valuable instrument, of which however there were no
                     less than a dozen in the ship, ordered his people to seize several large double
                     canoes, which had probably arrived from different adjacent islands. They
                     performed his command, and <persName>Mr. Clerke's</persName> gun was brought
                     back by the astonished natives. But this was not sufficient, and another canoe
                     was seized. A native, who stood upon it, defended his property, which he had
                     forfeited by no offence, and took up a spear, which he seemed resolved to
                     employ with good effect. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> levelled his musket
                     at him, and bid him lay down his arms. He refused, and received a load of shot
                     through his wrist and thigh, at the distance of eight or nine yards, which
                     immediately brought him to the ground. The volley was now fired, and a boat
                     sent off to the ship, where three canon, directed against the highest point of
                     the island, were fired off one after another. It was thought that the natives
                     would now have left us; but a great part still remained on the beach conscious
                     of their innocence, and some canoes continued to ply about the ship. The
                     behaviour of one of the natives upon this occasion was so remarkably stoical,
                     that our people could not help taking notice of it. He had a small canoe in
                     which he always met the other canoes before they reached the ship, took out
                     what he liked, and paid their owners, a certain small price in European goods,
                     which he had before obtained by barter. With his new cargo he returned to the
                     ship, and always made a considerable profit upon his bargain. As he never
                     failed to visit each canoe, our sailors called him a Custom-house officer. He
                     was lying close to the ship, baling the water out of his canoe, when the guns
                     were discharged not two yards over his head. Notwithstanding the extraordinary
                     concussion at so short a distance, he never once looked up, but continued to
                     bale, and afterwards to trade as if nothing had happened.</p>

                  <p n="680">We had not long rejoined the captain and his party, when the unlucky
                     adze was brought back, which had been the occasion of so much mischief. A
                     middle-aged woman, who seemed to have great authority, had dispatched some of
                     the people after it, and they returned at the same time a cartridge-box, and
                        <persName>Mr. Patton's</persName> fowling-piece, which appeared to have been
                     concealed under water. The wounded man was brought to us on a piece of wood
                     carried by men. He seemed almost without sensation; and was set on the ground,
                     whilst the natives gradually returned, and began to take courage. The women in
                     particular, were very desirous of restoring the general tranquility, and their
                     timid looks seemed to charge the behaviour of the strangers with cruelty. They
                     seated themselves on a fine green turf, in a group of fifty or more together,
                     and invited several of us to sit by them. Each of them had some shaddocks,
                     which they broke in pieces, and distributed to us with every mark of kindness
                     and peace. <persName>Mr. Patton's</persName> friend was one of the foremost,
                     and indeed claimed the first rank among the beauties of those islands. Her
                     stature was graceful, and her form exquisitely proportioned. Her features were
                     more regular than any I had ever seen in these isles, full of sweetness and the
                     charms of youth. Her large dark eyes sparkled with fire, and her ebony curls
                     floated on her neck. She was of a lighter colour than the common people, and
                     wore a brown cloth which closely embracing the body immediately under the
                     breast, but being somewhat wider towards the feet, perhaps suited her better
                     than the most elegant European dress.</p>

                  <p n="681">
                     <persName>Mr. Patton</persName> having been sent for, arrived with proper
                     instruments, and dressed the wounds of the poor native, whose countrymen
                     brought many banana leaves, which were laid on over the dressing. A bottle of
                     brandy was given them, with directions to wash the wounds with the liquor from
                     time to time. The wound was not dangerous, as it happened in a fleshy part; but
                     as the distance was so short, the shot had torn the flesh very much, and made
                     the wound very painful to the poor man. After this we distributed some beads,
                     and departed making various signs of friendship. The natives like those of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, were strangers to resentment, and
                     continued to trade with our ship as before. They seemed to possess a truly
                     mercantile spirit, and spared no trouble to obtain some of our goods or
                     curiosities. Among the rest, they were much delighted with a great number of
                     young puppies which we had taken on board at the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>, on purpose to stock such islands as were not provided
                     with them. We left two couple on <placeName>Namoka</placeName>, of which the
                     natives promised to take particular care. These people managed their canoes
                     with surprising agility, and swam with the greatest ease. Their common
                     trading-canoes were neatly made, and polished like those which I have already
                     described. But those of the neighbouring islands were of a great size, and some
                     of them contained upwards of fifty people. They always consisted of two large
                     canoes, fastened by a transverse platform of planks, in the midst of which they
                     had erected a hut, where they placed their goods, their arms, and utensils, and
                     where they passed a great part of their time. There were likewise holes, which
                     gave admittance into the body of each canoe. Their masts were stout poles which
                     could be struck at pleasure, and their sails were very large and triangular,
                     but not very proper to sail by the wind. All their cordage was excellent, and
                     they had also contrived a very good ground tackle, consisting of a strong rope
                     with large stones at the end, by means of which they came to an anchor.13</p>

                  <p n="682">We went on shore again after dinner, as <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> proposed leaving this island the next day. We passed through
                     several fields and wild shrubberies, and collected a number of valuable plants.
                     We also made a purchase of several arms, such as clubs, and spears, and of some
                     utensils, viz. small stools, large wooden dishes and bowls, in which the people
                     prepare their victuals, and some earthern pots which seemed to have been long
                     in use. The great abundance of their arms, does not agree with their
                     good-nature and hospitable disposition, unless they quarrel with their next
                     neighbours, like the people of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>. But they seemed to have spent too much time in ornamenting their
                     clubs, to have frequent occasion to use them.</p>

                  <p n="683">At day-break the next morning we unmoored and set sail, standing
                     towards the <placeName>island of Tofooa</placeName>, on which we had again
                     observed the volcano burning during night. A whole fleet of canoes followed us
                     several miles, trading with a variety of articles, particularly their dresses,
                     utensils, and ornaments. Some of them likewise brought fish of different sorts,
                     which we had found very well-tasted.</p>

                  <p n="684">The <placeName>island of Namoka</placeName>, which we left after a stay
                     of two days only, was not above fifteen miles in circuit, but seemed to be
                     remarkably populous. It lies in <geo select="lat">20° 17' S.</geo>14 and <geo select="lon">174° 32' W.</geo> In the group of islands which appeared around
                     it, its size was the most considerable; but all seemed to be well inhabited,
                     and very rich in vegetable productions. They are situated on a kind of bank, on
                     which there is from nine to sixty and seventy fathom water, and the soil is
                     probably the same in every island. <placeName>Namoka</placeName> consists, like
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, of a coral-rock, covered with a rich
                     mould on which all sorts of vegetables thrive. We had no time to examine the
                     hillock in its centre, which seems to have had a different origin, and may
                     perhaps be volcanic. At present it is wholly covered with the richest groves,
                     like the rest of the island. The abundance of fresh water in the pond, is an
                     advantage which the people of <placeName>Namoka</placeName> enjoy in preference
                     to those of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>; but it does not appear that
                     they bathe so regularly as the Taheitians, perhaps because the stagnant water
                     is not very inviting. Its advantage is however so much felt, that the natives
                     brought it to the ship in calabashes, and did the same to
                        <persName>Tasman</persName>, which implies that it is looked upon as a
                     valuable article among them. The abundance of water, and the richness of the
                     soil likewise seems to be the reason, that bread-fruit and shaddock trees are
                     much more frequent, and all vegetation infinitely more luxuriant than on
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. The fences on that account are not laid
                     out, and kept up with that extreme regularity, though they are still preserved
                     in part. The long walks of fruit-trees, and the delightful green turf under
                     them, were rather to be compared to the richest spots on
                        <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>, or <placeName>Middleburg
                     Island</placeName>. The tufted arbours which vaulted over the paths, are hung
                     with beautiful flowers of all kinds, many of which filled the air with
                     fragrance. The variety of scenes formed by many little risings, and different
                     groups of houses and trees, together with the lagoons, conspire to adorn this
                     island. The fowls and hogs which we saw in the neighbourhood of every dwelling,
                     the prodigious number of shaddocks which lay under every tree, hardly noticed
                     by the natives, and the quantities of yams which filled their houses, gave a
                     picture of abundance and affluence which delighted the eye and comforted the
                     heart. At sight of a plenteous prospect, human nature feels an instinctive
                     satisfaction, and good humour and joy are soon revived in the most dejected
                     breast. Amidst the dismal scenes of our voyage, these intervening moments are
                     remarkably contrasted, and therefore had a great effect upon us. It is so
                     natural to dwell upon pleasing subjects, that I hope, I need not apologize for
                     my frequent descriptions; and I must refer the reader to <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges's</persName> view in the interior parts of
                        <placeName>Namoka</placeName>
                  </p>

                  <p n="685"> The natives, who were happy enough to call these fertile groves their
                     own, did not appear to me to differ in any respect from those of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and <placeName>Ea-oowhe</placeName>.
                     Their stature was middle-sized, their colour a bright chestnut brown, and their
                     whole body well-proportioned, without being corpulent. Their punctures, their
                     dress, the customs of clipping the beard, and powdering the hair, their arms,
                     utensils, and canoes, their language and manners were exactly such as we had
                     noticed at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>. But in the short time which we
                     staid on their island, we could not observe any subordination among them,
                     though this had strongly characterised the natives of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, who seemed to descend even to servility
                     in their obeisance to their king. At <placeName>Namoka</placeName> we could not
                     distinguish any persons of superior rank or authority, unless we except the
                     man, whom our sailors called a Custom-house officer, and who inspected all the
                     canoes which came to the ship.16 The woman who sent for the stolen things,
                     appeared also to have some sway among them; and since there is reason to
                     suppose, that women whose hair is allowed to grow long, have some prerogatives
                     above the rest in the <placeName>South Sea<ref target="#edn212">
                           <note xml:id="edn212" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 327. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, <persName>Mr. Patton's</persName> friendly benefactress seems to
                     have been a lady of a superior class, which her whole deportment confirmed. She
                     was the only woman with long hair whom we saw on the island. I am far from
                     concluding that the people of <placeName>Namoka</placeName> have no fixed
                     government; on the contrary, their vicinity and similarity to other islanders,
                     amongst whom a monarchical government takes place, and the example of all the
                     other islanders of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> which former navigators
                     have examined, give the greatest room to suppose the same existing there. The
                     general coincidence of their manners with those of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, strongly prove that they have the same
                     origin, and probably the same religious notions; but notwithstanding this
                     agreement, I never found a <hi rend="italics">fayetooka</hi> or
                     burying-place, during my rambles upon <placeName>Namoka</placeName>, nor did
                     any one of our shipmates meet with a place in any wise resembling the
                     burying-place which we found at <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="686"> It appears, from the accounts of former voyagers, that between the
                     meridians of <geo select="lon">170° e</geo>ast from
                        <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, and <geo select="lon">180°</geo>, there is
                     a great number of islands, from the <geo select="lat">10th to the 22d
                        degree</geo> of latitude; all which, as far as they are known, seem to be
                     inhabited by one race of people, who speak the same dialect of the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> tongue, and have the same social and
                     mercantile disposition. All these then might be added to the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>. They are in general remarkably well
                     inhabited, particularly those which we visited.
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> is almost one continual garden, and
                        <placeName>Ea-oowe</placeName>, <placeName>Namoka</placeName>, and the
                     adjacent islands, are some of the most fertile spots in the <placeName>Pacific
                        Ocean</placeName>. We shall therefore be extremely moderate in our
                     calculation, if we suppose the number of inhabitants in all these islands does
                     not exceed 200,000 persons.17 Their healthy climate, and its excellent
                     productions, keep them free from those numerous diseases, to which we fall an
                     easy prey, and, according to their plain and simple notions, satisfy all their
                     wants. Their progress in the arts, beyond other nations in the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>, and particularly their refinement in music, serve to pass
                     away their time agreeably, and give them taste to acknowledge and discern the
                     beauties of their own exquisite forms, from whence one of the strongest ties of
                     society is derived. Their general turn is active and industrious, but their
                     behaviour to strangers more polite than cordial. Their peculiar propensity to
                     trade seems to have substituted this insincere civility, in the room of real
                     friendship, from those interested and mercenary principles which commerce
                     inspires. Both these characters are in direct opposition to those of the
                     Taheitians, who delight in an indolent life, and are too hearty in their
                     affections to confine them to outward shew and specious appearances. However
                     there are many luxurious individuals (arreoys) at the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>, whose moral character appears to be somewhat depraved;
                     whilst the people of the Friendly Islands seem to be ignorant of vices, which
                     can only have arisen from a superior degree of opulence.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 3: Another set with 'th' and 'nd'. -->

                  <p n="687">The canoes which accompanied us from Namoka returned at noon to several
                     low islands, all which seemed to be well inhabited and fertile, like so many
                     beautiful gardens. After dinner the wind became contrary, and abated, so that
                     we rather lost than gained ground. A few canoes came up with us again, for the
                     natives spared no labour to obtain our nails and rags of cloth. Towards evening
                     we were surrounded by a little fleet, and the trade was very brisk, chiefly for
                     the utensils and arms of the islanders, which are made with remarkable
                     neatness.</p>

                  <p n="688">
                     <date>[Thursday 30.]</date>The canoes returned once more to us the next
                     morning, putting off at day-break from all the little islands in sight. Their
                     appearance and their sailing afforded us much entertainment. Before the wind
                     they go extremely swift, being well contrived for that purpose, and their broad
                     triangular sail gives them a very picturesque form at a distance. We left them
                     in a short time, when the breeze freshened, and sailed towards the two high
                     islands, which we had discovered whilst we lay at anchor. In the afternoon
                     three canoes came up with us again; and one of them, with 50 men on board,
                     traded with us just as we were in the narrow passage between both islands. The
                     larger, to the southward, which is called <placeName>Tofoòa</placeName>,
                     appeared to be inhabited. Some of the natives on board our ship told us it had
                     fresh water, together with coco-nut, banana, and bread-fruit trees. We saw
                     indeed a number of palms, and a great quantity of the club-wood.18 The whole
                     island, though steep, was in some places covered with verdure or shrubbery.
                     Towards the sea, and especially towards the other island, the rocks seemed
                     burnt, and black sand covered the shore. We approached within a cable's length
                     of it, but found a depth of eighty fathom, which prevented our coming to an
                     anchor. The rocks towards the passage, which was not above a mile across, were
                     cavernous, and in some places had a rude columnar shape. The day was somewhat
                     hazy, and the top of the island was therefore covered with clouds. The smoke
                     however rolled up with impetuosity, and seemed, before we had passed the
                     strait, to issue from the other side of the mountain. As soon as we had passed
                     it, it appeared to arise from the side which we had just left. This deception
                     proves, that the top of the mountain was hollow, or formed a crater, from
                     whence the vapour was thrown up. There was a spot on the N. W. side of the
                     island, somewhat below the place where we saw the smoke come out, which had the
                     appearance of being lately burnt: it was destitute of verdure, though the
                     mountain on both sides of it was covered with various plants. When we came
                     exactly into the line in which the smoke was carried by the wind, we had a
                     small shower of rain, and many of us felt it very biting and sharp, when it
                     dropped into our eyes. It is probable from thence, that it carried down with it
                     some particles which the volcano had ejected. The wind being at S. S. E. and
                     freshening, we left this island, without being able to make any farther
                     observations upon it; though it well deserved the attention of the learned, who
                     make the revolutions which our globe has undergone, the object of their useful
                     and curious enquiries.</p>

                  <p n="689">
                     <date>[1774. July.][Friday 1.]</date>We sailed to the W. S. W. and continued
                     the same course all the next day. The following day, very near noon, we
                     discovered land, which, from the direction of our track, had never been seen by
                     other navigators. We ran toward it, and before night approached pretty near it;
                     but found breakers before us, which obliged us to tack all night, for fear of
                     an accident. Several lights which appeared on shore as soon as it was dark,
                     announced to us that the island was inhabited.</p>

                  <p n="690">
                     <date>[Sunday 3.]</date>The next morning we bore down upon it again, and came
                     round its east end. It appeared to be about seven miles long,19 and had two
                     small hills of very gentle ascent, wholly covered with woods, like the rest of
                     the island. One end sloped into a flat point, on which we observed fine groves
                     of coco-palms, and fruit-trees,20 together with houses in their shade. A fine
                     sandy beach surrounded the shore, and at the distance of half a mile, a coral
                     reef encompassed the east side of the island, which at the points projected
                     near two miles from the shore. On this reef we soon perceived five
                     blackish-brown men, with clubs in their hands, looking at us very attentively.
                     We hoisted a boat out, and sent the master to sound an opening between the
                     reefs which we saw before us. He went on through the entrance towards the
                     shore, where we observed upwards of thirty inhabitants sitting. Amongst them
                     ten or twelve were armed with spears; but as soon as our boat came near, they
                     hauled a canoe into the woods, which had brought their five men to and from the
                     reef, and all ran off when the master landed. He laid some nails, a knife, and
                     a few medals on the sandy beach, and returned on board, to acquaint the captain
                     that there was no bottom in the entrance of the reef, and not sufficient depth
                     within it. He had observed a dozen or more large turtles swimming in the
                     harbour; but being destitute of harpoons, or other instruments, could not
                     strike any of them. Our boat was hoisted in again, and the hopes of botanizing
                     on this island were entirely frustrated. We continued standing along its reef,
                     on which we observed some large single rocks of coral, near fifteen feet above
                     the surface of the water, narrow at the base, and spreading out at the top.
                     Whether an earthquake had raised them so high out of the sea, in which they
                     must have been formed, or whether some other cause ought to be assigned for
                     this curious fact, remains to be determined.</p>

                  <p n="691">A few miles to the westward of the island we found a great circular
                     reef of coral, including a lagoon. It was suspected that this lagoon might be
                     the abode of turtles, and two boats were hoisted out in the afternoon to go in
                     quest of them. The fishery proved very unsuccessful, not a single turtle being
                     seen, and the crew hoisted the boats in again before sunset. We then left this
                     new discovery, which was named <placeName>Turtle Island</placeName>, and is
                     situated in <geo select="lat">19° 48' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">178° 2'
                        W.</geo>21</p>

                  <p n="692">We ran to the W. S. W. with a fresh trade-wind by day, but tacked every
                     night. No birds attended us on this course, except now and then a white booby,
                     or a man of war bird. The fair weather, the yams of
                        <placeName>Namoka</placeName>, and the hope of making new discoveries in
                     this part of the <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>, which had never been
                     visited before, kept us all in very good spirits.</p>

                  <p n="693">
                     <date>[Saturday 9.]</date>On the 9th of July, having reached nearly <geo select="lon">176° E.</geo> and being in <geo select="lat">20° S.</geo> we
                     changed our course to the N. W. Our fresh gale continued without any change
                     till the 13th, <date>[Wednesd. 13.]</date>when it was somewhat abated, and a
                     few drops of rain fell both at night and in the morning. The second anniversary
                     of our departure from <placeName>England</placeName>, which happened on this
                     day, was celebrated by the sailors with their usual mirth. They drank
                     plentifully, having saved a part of their daily allowance, for this solemn
                     occasion, and drowned every gloomy idea in grog, the mariner's Lethe. One of
                     them, of a fanatical22 turn, composed a hymn on the occasion, as he had done
                     the first year; and after seriously exhorting his fellows to repentance, sat
                     down and hugged the bottle heartily; but like all the rest, he proved unequal
                     to the conflict, and sunk under the powerful influence of his adversary.</p>

                  <p n="694">The wind freshened very much the two following days, and on the third
                     the weather became hazy, with showers of rain. A calabash, which we observed
                     drifting past the ship, seemed to indicate the near approach of land; and
                     indeed a few hours after, about <time>two o'clock in the afternoon</time>, on
                     the <date>[Saturday 16.]</date>16th, we made it out at a little distance before
                     us, being high, and of considerable extent. The gale encreased towards night,
                     and the ship rolled very much; the rains were incessant at the same time, and
                     coming through the decks into our cabins, thoroughly soaked our books, cloaths,
                     and beds, depriving us of rest. The same heavy gales, with bad weather,
                     continued all the next day, and so involved the land in clouds, that we could
                     scarce discern it, but were forced to stand off and on. This weather was the
                     more disagreeable, as it was unexpected in a sea, which has always been termed
                     Pacific. It proves, that no entire reliance may be had upon general
                     denominations; and, that though storms and hurricanes are perhaps very seldom
                     felt in this ocean, yet it is not wholly free from them. Its western part is
                     particularly known for strong gales. When <persName>captain Pedro Fernandez de
                        Quiros</persName> left his <placeName>Tierra del Espiritù Santo</placeName>;
                     when <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> was on the coast of the
                        <placeName>Louisiade</placeName>; and when <persName>captain
                     Cook</persName>, in the Endeavour, explored the eastern coast of <placeName>New
                        Holland</placeName>, each of them met with stormy weather. Perhaps it may be
                     owing to the large lands which are situated in this part of the ocean; at least
                     it is known, that the stated winds of the torrid zone become variable in the
                     neighbourhood of high and extensive coasts.</p>

                  <p n="695">The weather was a little clearer the next morning, so that we could
                     venture to run in shore. We distinguished two islands, which were the
                        <placeName>Whitsun</placeName> and <placeName>Aurora Islands</placeName>of
                        <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>, and ran for the northern extremity
                     of the latter.</p>

                  <p n="696">
                     <date>[Monday 18.]</date>Thus, after spending two years in visiting the
                     discoveries of former voyagers, in rectifying their mistakes, and in combating
                     vulgar errors, we began the third, by investigating a group of islands which
                     the French navigator, pressed by necessity, and ill fitted out, had left with
                     precipitation. It was reserved for this last year to teem in new discoveries,
                     and to make amends for the two first. We had, it is true, no reason to
                     complain, since most of the countries we had visited, were scarcely known to
                     the world, from the vague and unphilosophical accounts of the discoverers. We
                     had room to make a variety of observations on men and manners, which, though
                     they ought to be the first objects of travellers, have still been postponed,
                     even by those who have aimed at being looked upon by the world as the most
                     enlightened. But, as mankind are ever captivated by the charms of novelty, the
                     history of our transactions, during the ensuing months, will have that
                     advantage at least to recommend it to their attention.</p>

                  <p n="697"> ;</p>

                  <p n="698">E N D O F T H E S E C O N D B O O K.</p>

                  <p n="699"> ;</p>

                  <p n="700">A VOYAGE round the WORLD.</p>

               </div>
            </div>
            <div n="3" type="book">
               <head>BOOK III.</head>

               <div n="1" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. I.<lb/>
                     An account of our stay at <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, and discovery
                        of the <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="701">
                     <date>[1774. July.]</date>WE reached the north-point of <persName>Aurora
                        island</persName> at <time>eight in the morning</time>
                     <date>[Monday 18.]</date>on the 18th of July, and passing very close to it,
                     observed vast numbers of coco-nut-palms on all parts of it, not excepting the
                     high ridges of the island. The whole, as far as a thick haze permitted us to
                     see, was clad in thick forests which had a pleasing, but wild appearance. My
                     father had a momentaneous glimpse of a small rocky peak to the northward, which
                        <persName>M. Bougainville</persName> calls <placeName>Pic de
                        l'Etoile</placeName>, or <placeName>Pic d'Averdi</placeName>; but the clouds
                     which moved with great velocity soon involved it.1 By the help of glasses some
                     natives were seen on Aurora, and as we approached nearer, we heard them calling
                     to one another. Having passed the north end of <placeName>Aurora</placeName>,
                     we stood to the southward along its western coast, as far as the wind would
                     permit, which blew more southerly than easterly. We had only this advantage,
                     that being sheltered by the land on all sides, the water was remarkably smooth,
                     though the gale continued. The island which <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> named the <persName>Isle of Lepers</persName>, was
                     right a-head of us, and we passed the day in tacking between it and
                        <placeName>Aurora</placeName>. At <time>four o'clock in the
                     afternoon</time>, we approached within a mile and a half of the former, and in
                     spite of the clouds which rested on its heights, saw so much of the lower
                     grounds, that we had reason to think it a very fertile island. The place where
                     we approached it was very steep, nor could we find bottom with one hundred and
                     twenty fathoms. However, the north-east point was lower, and covered with all
                     sorts of trees. The palms in particular were innumerable, and to our surprize
                     grew on the hills, where we had never seen them in other islands.2 Several
                     considerable cascades rushed down the precipices into the sea, amidst
                     shrubberies which formed as rich an ornament as in the landscapes of
                        <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>.3 Having put about, we observed a turtle
                     sleeping on the water, which the violence of the wind did not seem to affect.
                     We tacked all night in order to gain to the southward, being desirous of
                     passing between the <placeName>Isle of Lepers</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Aurora</placeName>. We came close under the former again
                        <date>[Tuesday 19.]</date>at eight in the morning. Having put about, a small
                     canoe ventured out with a single in it. We made a short trip, and returned
                     towards the shore, where three men in another canoe were preparing to come to
                     us. Several people sat on the rocks and projecting bluff points. Some were
                     blackened from the head downwards, as far as the breast; they had something
                     white on their heads, but went naked, with a rope about the waist. Only one of
                     them had a cloth across one shoulder, which came under the opposite arm like a
                     scarf, and then round his loins; it seemed to be of a dirty white with a
                     reddish border.4 All these people were of a dark brown colour, and armed with
                     bows and long arrows. Those who came off in canoes, came very near us, talking
                     loud and unintelligibly5 for some time, but constantly refused to come on
                     board. Having been obliged to put about the ship, they left us, and returned to
                     their countrymen on shore. In several places we observed reeds like hurdles,
                     standing up between the rocks, which seemed to be so placed in order to catch
                     fish.6</p>

                  <p n="702">We now approached the <placeName>isle of Aurora</placeName>, where we
                     observed a fine beach, and the most luxuriant vegetation that can be conceived.
                     The whole country was woody; numberless climbers ran up the highest trees, and
                     forming garlands and festoons between them, embellished the scene. A neat
                     plantation fenced with reeds, stood on the slope of the hill, and a beautiful
                     cascade poured down through the adjacent forest.7 About <time>two
                        o'clock</time> three canoes came off from the <placeName>island of
                        Aurora</placeName>, when we were close in shore, but as we could not stay
                     for them, they returned like those of <placeName>Lepers Island</placeName>. The
                        <placeName>island of Aurora</placeName> is about twelve leagues long, but
                     not above five miles broad in any part, lying nearly north and south. The
                     middle is in <geo select="lat" n="1">15° 6' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="1">168° 24' E.</geo> Its mountain or ridge is sharp, and of considerable
                     height. <placeName>Whitsun Island</placeName>, which lies about four miles to
                     the south of it, runs in the same direction, and is of the same length, but
                     appears to be somewhat broader at its northern extremity. Its middle lies in
                        <geo select="lat" n="2">15° 45' S.</geo> and in <geo select="lon" n="2">168°
                        28' e</geo>ast longitude. The <placeName>Isle of Lepers</placeName> is
                     almost as large as <placeName>Aurora</placeName>, but of greater breadth, and
                     its situation is nearly east and west; the middle lies in <geo select="lat" n="3">15° 20' s</geo>outh, and <geo select="lon" n="3">168° 3'
                     e</geo>ast.</p>

                  <p n="703">
                     <placeName>Whitsun Island</placeName>, as well as the <placeName>Isle of
                        Lepers</placeName>, having more sloping exposures than
                        <placeName>Aurora</placeName>, appear to be better inhabited, and to contain
                     more plantations.8 At night we observed many fires on them, particularly the
                     first, where they extended to the tops of the hills. This circumstance seems to
                     prove, that they live in great measure on agriculture; and since they have but
                     few canoes, and their shores very steep, fishing does not seem to employ them
                     so much as other islanders.9</p>

                  <p n="704">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 20.]</date>The island which <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> has placed to the southward of <placeName>Whitsun
                        Island</placeName>, came in sight the next morning, but was still so much
                     involved in clouds, that we could not distinguish its form or height. We passed
                     all that day in working to windward, which we performed with better success, as
                     the gale had a little abated.</p>

                  <p n="705">
                     <date>[Thursday 21.]</date>The next morning we had moderate and fair weather,
                     and saw <persName>M. de Bougainville's</persName> southern island very
                     distinctly. There was a passage between it and the south end of
                        <placeName>Whitsun Island</placeName>, about six miles in breadth. A long
                     low point extended from this southern island to the eastward; and all its north
                     side, though steep towards the sea, rose from thence with a gentle and gradual
                     ascent to the highest mountains in the centre. In the mountains, which were
                     still covered with clouds, we observed some volumes, as it appeared, of smoke,
                     which indicated a volcano. This island is about seven leagues in length, and
                     its middle lies in <geo select="lat">16° 15' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">168° 20' E.</geo>
                  </p>

                  <p n="706">Later in the day we discovered land to the westward, which proved to be
                     the south-westernmost land seen by <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>. We
                     advanced towards it, overjoyed with the variety of new islands which presented
                     themselves to our view. Having reached the N. W. end of the former island, on
                     which we suspected a volcano, we were convinced of its existence, by columns of
                     white smoke, which rolled up with great violence from the summit of an inland
                     mountain.10 The whole south-west coast of this island sloped into a very fine
                     and extensive plain, on which innumerable smokes arose, between the richest
                     groves which our eyes had beheld since our departure from
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. The populousness of the country was
                     strongly evinced by its fertile appearance, and by the number of fires.11 We
                     opened two other islands to the south-eastward, after passing the west end of
                     this land, one of which was a very high peak, which looked like a volcanic
                     mountain. Another island, with three high hills, also appeared to the south, at
                     a great distance. The western land, towards which we sailed, was not less
                     beautiful than that which we left. Its groves had the richest tints of verdure,
                     and coco-palms were scattered between them in vast numbers. The mountains rose
                     far inland, and before them lay several lower grounds, all covered with woods,
                     and bounded by a fine beach. At noon we came close in shore, and saw many
                     natives wading into the water to the waist, having clubs in their hands, but
                     waving green boughs, the universal signs of peace.12 One of them had a spear,
                     and another a bow and arrows. Contrary to their expectations, and perhaps their
                     wishes, we put about again. However after dinner two boats were hoisted out,
                     and sent to sound in a little harbour, which we observed from the ship. The
                     whole south point of this little bay, which was bounded by a coral reef, was
                     lined by several hundred inhabitants, of whom a few ventured out in their
                     canoes towards the ship and the boats. They did not approach near the ship
                     whilst she staid out at sea; but the boats having made the signal for good
                     anchorage, we came in after them, into a narrow harbour, with reefs at the
                     entrance, but which seemed to go inland to a considerable distance. Our boats
                     returned on board, and the officer acquainted the captain, that the natives had
                     come within a few yards in their canoes, but had not offered the least insult;
                     on the contrary, they had waved green boughs, and dipping their hands into salt
                     water, had poured it on their heads.13 This compliment our officer returned,
                     much to their satisfaction, it being probably a sign of friendship. They now
                     approached the ship in their canoes, waving green plants, particularly the
                     leaves of the <hi rend="italics">dracùna terminalis</hi>, and of a beautiful
                        <hi rend="italics">croton variegatum</hi>, and repeating the word Tomarr
                     or Tomarro continually, which seemed to be an expression equivalent to the
                     Taheitian Tayo (friend).14 The greater part of them were however armed with
                     bows and arrows, and a few with spears; being thus prepared, at all events,
                     both for peace and war. By degrees they ventured near the ship, and received a
                     few pieces of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, which they eagerly
                     accepted. Presently they handed up some of their arrows in exchange; at first
                     such as were pointed with wood only, but soon after even such as were armed
                     with points of bone, and daubed with a black gummy stuff, on which account we
                     suspected them to be poisoned.15 A young Taheitian puppy was therefore wounded
                     in the leg with one of these arrows, to try its effect; but we perceived no
                     dangerous symptoms.</p>

                  <p n="707">The language of these people was so utterly different from all the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> dialects which we had hitherto heard, that
                     we could not understand a single word of it. It was much harsher than any of
                     them, and the <hi rend="italics">r</hi>, <hi rend="italics">s</hi>, <hi rend="italics">ch</hi>, and other consonants abounded in it. The people
                     themselves differed from any that we had hitherto seen. They were all
                     remarkably slender, and in general did not exceed five feet four inches in
                     height. Their limbs were often indifferently proportioned, their legs and arms
                     long and slim, their colour a blackish brown, and their hair black, frizzled
                     and woolly. Their features were more extraordinary than all the rest. They had
                     a flat broad nose and projecting cheek-bones of a Negroe, and a very short
                     forehead, which had sometimes an unusual direction, being something more
                     depressed than in well-formed men. Many of them were besides this painted with
                     a black colour in the face and over the breast, which disfigured them more than
                     their natural ugliness. A few had a small cap on the head, made of matted work,
                     but all went stark naked, and tied a rope so fast round their belly, that it
                     made a deep notch. Most other nations invent some kind of covering, from
                     motives of shame; but here a roll of cloth continually fastened to the belt,
                     rather displays than conceals, and is the very opposite of modesty.16</p>

                  <p n="708">They continued about the ship, talking with great vociferation, but at
                     the same time in such a good-humoured manner, that we were much entertained. We
                     had no sooner looked at one of them, that he began to chatter without reserve,
                     and grinned almost like <persName>Milton's</persName> Death. This circumstance,
                     together with their slender form, their ugly features, and their black colour,
                     often provoked us to make an ill-natured comparison between them and monkies.
                     We should be sorry, however, to supply <persName>Rousseau</persName>, or the
                     superficial philosophers who re-echo his maxims, with the shadow of an argument
                     in favour of the Orang-outang system.17 We rather pity than despite these men,
                     who can so far forget and abuse their own intellectual faculties, as to degrade
                     themselves to the rank of baboons.</p>

                  <p n="709">When it was dark the natives returned on shore, where they made a
                     number of fires, and were heard speaking as loud among themselves as they had
                     done to us. About eight, however, they all returned to the ship in their
                     canoes, with burning firebrands, in order to have another conversation. On
                     their part they carried it on with surprising spirit, but we did not reply with
                     equal volubility. The evening was very fine and calm, and the moon shone out at
                     times. Seeing that we were not so talkative as themselves, they offered to sell
                     us their arrows and other trifles;18 but <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     prohibited the trade, in order to get rid of them. We were surprised with their
                     behaviour, it being unusual to see any Indians awake and active about the ship
                     after sunset. Some though they only came as spies, to see whether we were upon
                     our guard; but their inoffensive behaviour seemed to free them from this
                     suspicion. When they found us resolved not to barter with them, they retreated
                     to the shore towards midnight. We heard them singing and beating their drums
                     all night, and could observe them sometimes dancing; so that we concluded they
                     were of a very chearful disposition.</p>

                  <p n="710">
                     <date>[Friday 22.]</date>They gave us very little respite in the morning. At
                     day-break they came off in their canoes, and began to call to us, frequently
                     intermixing the word Tomarr in their noisy speeches. Four or five of them came
                     on board the ship without any arms: they soon became familiar, and with the
                     greatest ease climbed up the shrouds to the mast-head. When they came down
                     again, the captain took them into his cabin, and gave them presents of medals,
                     ribbons, nails, and pieces of red baize. They were the most intelligent people
                     we had ever met with in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>;19 they
                     understood our signs and gestures, as if they had been long acquainted with
                     them, and in a few minutes taught us a greater number of their words. Their
                     language was really as we had immediately suspected, wholly distinct from that
                     general language, of which several dialects are spoken at the
                        <placeName>Society Isles</placeName>, the <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>,
                     the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>, the <placeName>Low
                        Islands</placeName>, <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, and
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. It was not difficult to pronounce, but
                     contained more consonants than any of the dialects here mentioned. The most
                     singular sound was a shaking or vibration of <hi rend="italics">brrr</hi>
                     together. Thus, for instance, one of our friends, was called
                        <persName>Mambrrùm</persName>, and the other
                        <persName>Bonombrrooàï</persName>. Whatever they saw, they coveted; but they
                     never repined at a refusal. The looking-glasses which we gave them were
                     particularly admired, and they took great pleasure in looking at themselves; so
                     that these ugly people seemed to have more self-conceit, than the beautiful
                     nation at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>.20 They had perforated ears, and a hole in the <hi rend="italics">septum</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">narium</hi>,21 into which they put a bit of stick, or two
                     little pieces of white selenite or alabaster, which are tied together in an
                     obtuse angle. On the upper arm they wore bracelets, very neatly wrought, of
                     small pieces of black and white shells.22 These bracelets fitted so closely,
                     that it was plain they had been put on whilst their owners were young; for at
                     present it was quite impossible to draw them over the elbow. Their skins were
                     very soft and smooth, and of a sooty or blackish-brown colour, which was
                     heightened by black paint in the face.23 Their hair was frizzled, and woolly to
                     the touch, though not of the softest. Their beards were frizzled, but not
                     woolly, and well furnished with hair. They had no punctures on their body, but
                     indeed they could not have been seen on their black skin at any considerable
                     distance. Mr. Hodges took an opportunity of drawing their portraits, one of
                     which has been engraved for <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of the
                     voyage. It is very characteristic of the nation; but we must lament, that a
                     defect in the drawing, has made it necessary to infringe the <hi rend="italics">costume</hi>, and to throw a drapery over the shoulder,
                     though these people have no kind of cloathing.24 They were easily persuaded to
                     sit for their portraits, and seemed to have an idea of the representations.</p>

                  <p n="711">We were deeply engaged in conversation with them, and they seemed happy
                     beyond measure, when the first lieutenant came into the cabin. He acquainted
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> that one of the natives having been denied
                     admittance into the ship, which was by this time crouded with them, had pointed
                     his arrow at the sailor in our boat, who pushed back his canoe. Before he had
                     done speaking, our acute natives guessed his errand, and having before observed
                     the windows open, one of them instantly jumped out, and swam to his outrageous
                     countryman to hold his hands. The captain went upon deck presently, and took up
                     a musket, which he pointed at the native, who persisted in his attitude in
                     spite of his fellows. Seeing that <persName>captain Cook</persName> had
                     levelled at him, he also pointed his arrows at him. At this moment, the rest of
                     the natives around the ship called to those in the cabin; these fearing the
                     worst consequences from the violence of their countryman, hurried out of the
                     windows, notwithstanding all our endeavours to quiet their apprehensions.25 We
                     heard a musket fired off the instant after, and repairing on deck, saw the
                     native who had received some small shot, very deliberately laying by his arrow,
                     which was only pointed with wood, and selecting one of those which we believed
                     to be poisoned. As soon as he had taken aim, the third lieutenant fired at him
                     again; the small shot which he received in his face, obliged him to give up all
                     thoughts of fighting, and he paddled quickly towards the shore. At the same
                     moment an arrow was shot off from the other side of the ship, which fell in the
                     mizen shrouds. A ball was fired after the native who sent it to us, but luckily
                     without effect. Every canoe now moved gradually towards the shore, and all who
                     were on board flung themselves into the sea; one in particular, who was at the
                     mast-head when the fray began, not thinking of any harm, came down with the
                     greatest precipitation when the muskets went off. To terrify these people, and
                     to give them a specimen of our power, a cannon was fired over their heads among
                     the trees on shore. This accelerated their retreat; the nearest to us jumped
                     out of their canoes in a fright, and all reached the shore in great confusion.
                     Presently their drums began to beat in different parts, to give the alarm, and
                     the poor fellows were seen running along shore, and huddling under the bushes
                     together, in close consultation on this alarming crisis of their affairs. In
                     the mean while we went quietly to breakfast.</p>

                  <p n="712">At <time>nine o'clock</time> some canoes again made their appearance,
                     rowing round the ship, and very cautiously coming nearer. We waved to them with
                     a branch of the <hi rend="italics">dracœna</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">terminalis</hi>, which we had before received; and after
                     they had dipped their hands in the sea, and put them on their heads, they
                     received a few presents which <persName>captain Cook</persName> gave them, and
                     went away to the shore.26 Two of our boats were now manned, and a party of
                     marines embarked with the captain, my father, <persName>Dr.
                     Sparrman</persName>, myself, and several others. A reef bounded the shore at
                     the distance of thirty yards or more. It was so shallow, that we were forced to
                     step out, and wade to the beach, where our marines formed without opposition.
                     We were received by a croud of no less than three hundred persons, all armed,27
                     but very friendly and inoffensive in their behaviour towards us. A middle-aged
                     man, rather stronger than the generality of the people, gave away his bow and
                     quiver to another, and came unarmed to shake hands with us, in sign of peace
                     and amity; he was perhaps a chief among them. A pig was brought at the same
                     time, and presented to the captain, apparently as a kind of expiation for their
                     countryman's ill behaviour; but perhaps it was only a ratification of the peace
                     which we had concluded.28 This interview is represented in a fine plate,
                     designed by <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> and engraved for <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage.29 After we had received the pig,
                     we expressed by signs that we wanted wood, and they immediately pointed out
                     some trees which grew close to the beach, which we cut down, and sawed in
                     pieces. The beach did not exceed fifteen yards in breadth; and our situation
                     was very precarious in case of an attack. The marines therefore drew a line
                     before them, which the natives were desired not to transgress. They readily
                     complied with this regulation; but their numbers encreased from all parts
                     continually. They were all armed with bows ready strung, made of a tough
                     dark-brown wood, finer than mahogany; and with arrows, which they held in a
                     cylindrical quiver, formed of leaves. All these arrows were made of reeds about
                     two feet long; those of the common sort had a point about a foot or fifteen
                     inches long, consisting of a polished jetty black wood, like ebony, but
                     excessively brittle;30 the rest, which were kept in quivers, were all pointed
                     with a short bit of bone, two or three inches long. This was inserted in a
                     notch of the reed, which was again curiously and firmly united together by
                     means of single coco-nut fibres, wound across each other, so as to form little
                     rhomboidal compartments, about 1/20 of an inch square, which were filled up
                     with minute attention, alternately with a reddish, green, and white earthy
                     colour. The point of bone itself was very sharp, and smeared, with a black
                     resinous substance.</p>

                  <p n="713">We left our lines, and walked over amongst the natives, who conversed
                     with us, and with great good-will sat down on the stump of a tree to teach us
                     their language. They were surprised at our readiness to remember, and seemed to
                     spend some time in pondering how it was possible to preserve the sound by such
                     means as pencil and paper. They were not only assiduous in teaching, but had
                     curiosity enough to learn our language, which they pronounced with such
                     accuracy, that we had reason to admire their extensive faculties and quick
                     apprehension. Observing their organs of speech to be so flexible, we tried the
                     most difficult sounds in the European languages; nay, we had recourse to the
                     compound Russian <hi rend="italics">shtch</hi>, all which they pronounced at
                     the first hearing, without the least difficulty.31 We presently taught them our
                     numerals, which they repeated rapidly on their fingers; in short, what they
                     wanted in personal attraction, was amply made up in acuteness of understanding.
                     We began to trade with them for their arms, but they were at first very loth to
                     exchange them; however, a handkerchief, or piece of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, or English frieze, was of some value
                     among them. They began to sell their common arrows, and afterwards those which
                     were poisoned; but advised us not to try the points against our fingers, making
                     us understand, by the plainest signs, that with a common arrow, a man might be
                     shot through the arm without dying, but that the slightest scratch with one of
                     the other sort was mortal. If notwithstanding this information, we attempted to
                     bring the point on our fingers, they caught hold of our arm, with the most
                     friendly gesture, to save us, as it were, from imminent danger.32 Besides bows
                     and arrows, they wore a club of the casuarina-wood, which hung on their right
                     shoulder, from a thick rope, made of a kind of grass.33 This club was commonly
                     knobbed at one end, and very well polished, like all their manufactures. It did
                     not exceed two feet and a half in length, and appeared to be reserved for close
                     engagement, after emptying the quiver. On the left wrist, they wore a circular
                     wooden plate neatly covered, and joined with straw, about five inches in
                     diameter, upon which they broke the violence of the recoiling bow-string, and
                     prevented it from hurting their arms. This kind of ruffle, and their ornaments,
                     such as the bracelets above mentioned, piece of shell cut in form of large
                     rings, which were also worn on the arm, the stone in their nose, and the shell
                     which hung on their breast, suspended by a string round the neck, they at this
                     time refused to sell.</p>

                  <p n="714">We observed no new plants on the borders of the beach where our people
                     cut down trees; but the country within looked very tempting, being one great
                     forest. <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, and myself, observing a path which
                     ascended into the wood behind some bushes, went in unnoticed, and advanced
                     about twenty yards, where we fortunately found two fine new plants. But we had
                     scarcely made this valuable acquisition, when some of the natives appeared
                     coming from the country, who at sight of us stopped, and made repeated signs to
                     us to return to the beach.34 We beckoned to them, and shewed them the plants
                     which we had collected, intimating as well as our gestures could express it,
                     that we had come for no other purpose. This pretence availed us nothing; and as
                     they continued to call us out of the wood, we complied for fear of raising a
                     new disturbance. The wood which we had thus suddenly quitted, was very dark and
                     interspersed with bushes. However, a broad mass of light in the interior parts,
                     seemed to indicate a plantation, which we should have reached, if we had not
                     been too early interrupted. The various voices of women and children, which
                     issued from that spot confirmed our conjecture. The trees which grew in the
                     wood, were in general of well known sorts; but among the under-woods there
                     appeared several sorts hitherto unnoticed. From the ship however, we had
                     perceived vast numbers of coco-palms, some bananas, bread-fruit, and other
                     valuable cultivated trees, of which the natives had given us the names.</p>

                  <p n="715">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> having in the mean while, asked for fresh
                     water, the person whom we supposed to be a chief, sent for a calabash full,
                     which was very pure, and also presented the captain with a coco-nut; but in
                     spite of all our enquiries, we could not prevail upon the natives to bring us
                     any more. A few of them wore a small bunch of greens on their arm, which we
                     knew to be part of an odoriferous plant of a new genus, named <hi rend="italics">euodia</hi> (Forst. Nov. Gen.). Some suffered us to take and
                     examine it, but others took it out of our hands and threw it away, with an
                     angry expression, as if it was either noxious or ominous. We had frequently
                     eaten the seeds of this plant, which are finely aromatic, without suffering the
                     least inconvenience, and were well convinced, that the whole plant was very
                     harmless; but whether it might not be a sign of enmity or defiance, in the same
                     manner as many others are esteemed emblems of friendship, must remain in
                     doubt.</p>

                  <p n="716">The tide was now so low, that the reef remained quite dry behind us,
                     and a great number of the natives had walked over it to our boats, where they
                     traded with the crew. Being in some measure surrounded by these people, the
                     marines were placed alternately towards the shore and the sea, in order to
                     present a front both ways; though it did not appear that the natives had the
                     least intention of quarrelling with us. We conversed very freely with them, and
                     their tongues ran on with such unremitted volubility, that we compared the
                     noise about us, to the confused uproar in a great fair. Our astonishment
                     therefore, may sooner be conceived than described, when this chattering ceased
                     all at once, and a dead silence succeeded. __We looked at each other, we threw
                     our eyes wildly about, and joined the wings of our <hi rend="italics">corps de
                        garde</hi>. The natives seemed to stand in expectation of some mischance;
                     but by degrees seeing us quiet, they began to talk again, and in a few minutes,
                     mutual confidence was restored. This circumstance which had given rise to this
                     alarm was trifling in itself, but expressed the good disposition of the natives
                     towards us. One of our boat's crew, had desired a native to shoot an arrow into
                     the air as high as he could. The man very readily complied, and had drawn his
                     bow, when some of his countrymen, recollecting that we might look upon this as
                     an infringement of the peace, called out to him to stop, and alarmed all the
                     people on the beach, by pronouncing a few words, which immediately produced
                     universal silence, expressing extreme jealousy35 in a most dreadful manner, and
                     affording a proper subject to exercise the talents of painters and poets.
                     Affrighted countenances, full of anxiety and horrid suspense; many a wild
                     stare, many a gloomy, mischievous look, and some undaunted steady glances; an
                     infinite variety of attitudes; a characteristic difference in the manner of
                     handling the arms; the scene, the groups of inhabitants, &amp;c. all conspired
                     to furnish the proper requisites for a good picture.</p>

                  <p n="717">As soon as this alarm was over, our wood-cutters resumed their
                     occupations, and the natives admired their skill. A few women now likewise came
                     to our lines, but remained at some distance. They were of small stature, and
                     had the most disagreeable features which we had observed in the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>. Those who were grown up, and probably
                     married, had short pieces of a kind of cloth, or rather matting round their
                     waists, reaching nearly to the knees; the rest had only a string round the
                     middle with a whisp of straw; and the younger ones, from infancy to the age of
                     ten years, went stark naked, like the boys of the same age. Some of these women
                     had covered their heads with the orange powder of turmeric-root; some had
                     daubed their face, and others their whole body with this colour, which on their
                     dark skins had a most filthy effect. But with their countrymen it is probably
                     esteemed an ornament, as the taste of mankind is astonishingly various. We did
                     not observe, that these women had any finery in their ears, round their neck,
                     or arms; for it seems it is fashionable in the island, only for the men to
                     adorn themselves. Wherever that is the case, the sex is commonly oppressed,
                     despised, and in a deplorable situation.36 They were seen with bundles on their
                     backs, which contained their children, and had a most miserable appearance. The
                     men seemed to have no kind of regard for them, would not permit them to come
                     nearer; and as oft as we went towards them, the women ran away.</p>

                  <p n="718">About noon a great part of the croud dispersed, probably to take their
                     dinner. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> received an invitation from the
                     chief, to accompany him to his dwelling in the woods, but declined it; and
                     having continued on shore till <time>one o'clock</time>, we all re-imbarked in
                     the best order, without any molestation from the natives, who remained on the
                     beach till we were on board. <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName> had not
                     been so fortunate at the <placeName>Isle of Lepers</placeName>; the natives
                     were very friendly to appearance, till all his men were embarked; but a flight
                     of arrows was then sent after them, and revenged by a volley of musketry, which
                     killed several natives. As these islanders live in sight of each other, and
                        <persName>M. de Bougainville's</persName> visit was so recent, the natives
                     with whom we had to deal, were probably apprised of the power of Europeans, and
                     therefore acted with caution.</p>

                  <p n="719">Immediately after dinner, <persName>captain Cook</persName> and my
                     father went ashore on the north side of the harbour, in quest of our buoy,
                     which the natives had conveyed thither, and which we saw on the beach by the
                     help of our glasses. In the mean time the southern shore, on which we had
                     landed in the morning, was entirely clear of the natives; but in the woods we
                     heard the frequent squeaking of pigs, from whence it may be concluded that the
                     natives possess great numbers of these animals.37 Soon after our boat's
                     departure, several natives in their canoes came alongside to trade with us.
                     They readily sold us their bows and arrows, clubs and spears, for old rags and
                     other trifles, plying between the ship and the shore all the evening.38 Their
                     canoes were small, not exceeding twenty feet in length, of indifferent
                     workmanship, and without ornament, but provided with an outrigger. The number
                     which came to the ship never amounted to more than fourteen, which seems to
                     confirm that these people are no great fishermen.</p>

                  <p n="720">Our boat returned before sunset, with the buoy which they had taken as
                     soon as they landed, without any opposition on the part of the natives. Some
                     trifling appendages to it were lost, but these could easily be replaced. The
                     inhabitants of that part traded with the captain and his company, selling their
                     arms and ornaments for various trifles of no intrinsic worth. An old woman
                     parted with two semi-transparent bits of selenites, cut into a conical shape,
                     and connected at the pointed ends, by means of a ribbon made of leaves.39 The
                     diameter of the broad end was about half an inch, and the length of each bit
                     three quarters of an inch. She took it out of the hole in the cartilage of her
                     nose, which was very broad, ugly, and smeared with black paint. Our people took
                     great pains to obtain refreshments from the natives; but notwithstanding all
                     their signs, they did not bring a single article of food.40 Our goods, no
                     doubt, did not seem valuable enough in their eyes, to be considered as an
                     equivalent to eatables, which are always the real riches of mankind. Upon this
                     plain principle the people of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> always
                     acted; and from the value which they put on our goods, after they were
                     acquainted with their uses, we can with a degree of certainty judge of their
                     opulence, or the fertility of their country. From hence they still proceeded
                     northward, towards the exterior point of the harbour. Here they found some
                     bananas, bread-fruit trees, coco-palms, and other plants, separated by an
                     enclosure; and near them some dwellings of the natives, wretched hovels, of an
                     inconsiderable size, and so low that they could hardly stand upright in them.
                     They consisted of a roof thatched with palm-leaves, resting on a few posts.
                     Here however they observed a great many hogs, and some common poultry. The
                     natives seemed to be convinced that our people had no sinister intentions, and
                     expressed much less curiosity than in the morning. Their numbers were
                     inconsiderable in this place; and though they did not entirely approve of
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> visit to their houses, they did not
                     oppose it with perseverance.41 From hence our gentlemen proceeded farther
                     towards the point, till they came in sight of the three islands to the
                     eastward, of which they learnt the names. The largest, on which we had observed
                     the volcano, was called <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName>, the high peek
                        <placeName>Pa-oòm</placeName>, and the southernmost
                        <placeName>Apèe</placeName>. This good success encouraged them to point to
                     the land on which they stood, and to enquire of the natives by what name that
                     was distinguished. The name of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, which they
                     immediately received in answer, was so strikingly similar to
                        <placeName>Manicolo</placeName>, which <persName>captain Quiros</persName>
                     had received and preserved above 160 years ago, that they rejoiced to obtain
                     such indisputable proof of his veracity.42 It appears from
                        <persName>Quiros's</persName> account, that he never visited
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> himself, but only received intelligence of
                     it from the natives; however, that his <placeName>Tierra del Espiritù
                        Santo</placeName> is a part of this group of islands, seemed at present to
                     be very clear. Having obtained this information, they returned to their boats;
                     but in their way one of them picked up an orange on the shore, which he shewed
                     to the natives. They told him the name which it bears in their country, and
                     thus gave another proof that the accounts of <placeName>Quiros</placeName>,
                     relative to the productions of the lands discovered by him, are not void of
                     foundation. We had found shaddocks in the <placeName>Friendly
                        Islands</placeName>, but never met with oranges in any island of the
                        <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName> before. The ideas of the natural riches
                     of the <placeName>island of Mallicollo</placeName> were considerably raised
                     after this confirmation of <persName>Quiros's</persName> reports. Our people
                     rowed into the harbour near two miles, and found its bottom filled with
                     mangroves, but could not meet with fresh water. A river probably flowed into
                     the sea among these mangroves, but it was in vain to attempt a passage through
                     the close tissue of their branches, which multiply out of every seed, without
                     forming a separate tree. The evening was very hot, and they returned on board
                     heartily tired. As they rowed along the shore, they heard the drums beating,
                     and saw the natives dancing to the sound by their trees. Their music, and that
                     which they made the preceding night, was not remarkable either for harmony or
                     variety, but seemed to be of a more lively turn that that of the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="721">During night several of our people tried to fish, and some of them were
                     successful. One caught a shark nine feet long, which was now very acceptable,
                     all our fresh provisions being entirely consumed, excepting a few yams, which
                     were eaten instead of bread. Another took an Indian sucking-fish (<hi rend="italics">echeneis naucrates</hi>) near two feet long; and a third
                     made prize of two large red fishes of the sea-bream kind (probably the <hi rend="italics">sparus erythrinus</hi>, Linn.) one of which he kept for his
                     messmates, and the other he presented to the lieutenants. The captain received
                     a share of the shark, on which we feasted the next day, when the whole ship's
                     company regaled themselves with a fresh meal. Sharks do not afford a very
                     palatable food, but it was at all times preferable to salt provisions, and
                     necessity taught us to relish it. This severe teacher reconciles the
                     Greenlander to whale-blubber, and the Hottentot to filthy intestines; and time
                     makes these indelicate viands acceptable and delicious to their taste. This
                     shark, when cut open, was found to have the bone point of a poisoned arrow
                     sticking in his head, having been shot quite through the skull. The wound was
                     healed so perfectly, that not the smallest vestige of it appeared on the
                     outside. A piece of the wood still remained sticking to the bony point, as well
                     as a few fibres with which it had been tied on; but both the wood and the
                     fibres were so rotten, as to crumble into dust at the touch. Fishes therefore
                     are not affected by these arrows, which we supposed to be poisoned.</p>

                  <p n="722">The next morning we weighed the anchor and set sail, having scarcely
                     had time sufficient to sketch a plan of the harbour, which was honoured with
                     the title of <placeName>Port Sandwich</placeName>. Its situation, deduced from
                     astronomical observations, is in <geo select="lat">16° 28' s</geo>outh lat. and
                        <geo select="lon">167° 56' e</geo>ast long. We were becalmed before we could
                     clear the reefs, and obliged to send out boats ahead to tow us out, which they
                     performed very slowly and with great difficulty. In the mean time the natives
                     came to us with all their fourteen canoes, and sold us great numbers of arrows
                     of all kinds and some clubs. They made several trips between the ship and the
                     shore, as they had done the preceding day, and seemed to be very eager to part
                     with their arms for <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth. We repeated our
                     demand for provisions; but they would not listen to it, and only parted with
                     what they could more easily spare or replace.43 Towards noon we got clear of
                     the harbour, and left <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> with the sea-breeze,
                     which then freshened, standing over to <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName>, or the
                        <placeName>Island of Volcanoes</placeName>. Whether we might have obtained
                     some refreshments by staying a few days longer and improving our acquaintance
                     with the natives, is very uncertain; for since they set no value on our
                     iron-ware, we could offer no equivalent for their provisions.</p>

                  <p n="723">The <placeName>island of Mallicollo</placeName> is about twenty leagues
                     long from north to south, and the port which we had left lies in its south-east
                     extremity. Its inland mountains are very high, clad with forests, and without
                     doubt contain many fine springs, though we could not trace them between the
                     trees. The soil, as far as we were able to examine it, is a rich and fertile
                     mould, like that which covers the plains of the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>; and the vicinity of the volcano at
                        <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName> gave us great room to suppose that
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> is no stranger to the processes carried on
                     in these natural laboratories. Its vegetable productions seem to be luxuriant
                     and in great variety, and the useful plants not less numerous than in the
                     islands we had before visited. Coco-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas, sugar-canes,
                     yams, eddoes, turmerick, and oranges were seen on the island, and enumerated by
                     the natives. Hogs and common poultry are their domestic animals; to which we
                     have added dogs, by selling them a pair of puppies brought from the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>. They received them with strong signs
                     of extreme satisfaction; but as they called them hogs, (<hi rend="italics">brooàs</hi>),44 we were convinced that they were entirely new to them. We
                     did not find any other quadruped during our short stay, nor is it probable
                     that, on an island so far remote from continents, there should be any wild
                     animals of that class. In the course of one day, and confined to a barren
                     beach, it is not likely that we could form a more adequate idea of the animals
                     than of the vegetables of this country. We saw enough, however, to be
                     convinced, that the woods are inhabited by many species of birds, among which
                     there are doubtless some which have as yet escaped the attention of
                     naturalists.</p>

                  <p n="724">The productions of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> are, however, less
                     remarkable and striking at first sight than the race of its inhabitants. To
                     judge of their numbers from the croud we saw at <placeName>Port
                        Sandwich</placeName>, I should conclude, that they are far from
                     inconsiderable; but considering the great size of the island, I cannot suppose
                     it to be very populous. Fifty thousand is, I think, the greatest number we can
                     admit;45 and these are not confined to the skirts of the hills, as at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, but dispersed over the whole extent of more
                     than six hundred square miles. We ought to figure their country to ourselves as
                     one extensive forest: they have only begun to clear and plant a few insulated
                     spots, which are lost in it, like small islands in the vast <placeName>Pacific
                        Ocean</placeName>. Perhaps if we could ever penetrate through the darkness
                     which involves the history of this nation, we might find that they have arrived
                     in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> much later than the natives of the
                        <placeName>Friendly and Society Islands</placeName>.46 So much at least is
                     certain, that they appear to be of a race totally distinct from these. Their
                     form, their language, and their manners strongly and completely mark the
                     difference. The natives on some parts of <placeName>New Guinea</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Papua</placeName> seem to correspond in many particulars with
                     what we have observed among the Mallicollese. The black colour and woolly hair
                     in particular are characteristics common to both nations. If the influence of
                     climate be admitted, which is so strongly defended by count Buffon, it offers
                     another proof that <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> has been but lately
                        peopled<ref target="#edn213">
                        <note xml:id="edn213" anchored="true"> The reader will perceive that we only
                           use this expression comparatively. </note>
                     </ref>, since the interval of time has not been sufficient to work a change in
                     the colour and hair of the inhabitants.47 But I am far from being convinced of
                     this general and powerful influence of climates. I have only ventured out into
                     the great field of probabilities, and am ready to quit my opinion as soon as
                     another more just and more rational is offered.48 <placeName>New
                        Guinea</placeName> and the islands adjacent, the only countries from whence
                     we can expect some light on this subject, still remain unknown to us, not only
                     in regard to their geographical situation, but more especially as to their
                     inhabitants. From the voyagers who have visited that part of the world<ref target="#edn214">
                        <note xml:id="edn214" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Dampier</persName>, <persName>Carteret</persName>,
                              <persName>Bougainville</persName>. </note>
                     </ref> it appears that many distinct tribes dwell in its different parts.49 But
                     it is particularly to be remarked, that besides the black race, there are also
                     some of a lighter colour, who, if we may judge from their customs, seem to be
                     related to the natives of the <placeName>Society</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>. Some other tribes there are who
                     may, in all probability, be a mixture of both races. The slender form of the
                     Mallicollese is a character, as far as I know, peculiar to them and the New
                     Hollanders; but that nation hath nothing in common with them in all other
                     respects. Their custom of tying a rope very fast round their belly is still
                     more singular, and would be fatal to a person unaccustomed from infancy to such
                     an absurd ligature. The rope was as thick as a man's finger, and cut such a
                     deep notch across the navel, that the belly seemed in a manner double, one part
                     being above and the other below the rope. The bracelets which press the upper
                     arm so closely, must have been put on while the natives are very young, and
                     appear to have been contrived upon the same principle. The features of these
                     people, though remarkably irregular and ugly, yet are full of great
                     sprightliness, and express a quick comprehension. Their lips and the lower part
                     of their face are entirely different from those of African Negroes; but the
                     upper part, especially the nose, is of a very similar conformation, and the
                     substance of the hair the same. The depression of their forehead may perhaps be
                     artificial, as the heads of infants may be squeezed into all kinds of forms.50
                     On the continent of America there are many instances of nations who disfigure
                     their heads to make them resemble the sun, the moon, or some other object. But,
                     upon the whole, this figure of the forehead among the Mallicollese is not
                     carried to excess, and does not remarkably encrease their ugliness.</p>

                  <p n="725">The climate of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, and the adjacent
                     islands, is very warm, but perhaps not at all times so temperate as at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, because the extent of land is infinitely
                     greater. However, during our short stay we experienced no unusual degree of
                     heat, the thermometer being at 76° and 78°, which is very moderate in the
                     torrid zone. Dress, in such a climate, is to be considered as an article of
                     luxury, and cannot properly be placed among the indispensible necessaries. At
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> they have not yet attained that degree of
                     opulence which could have suggested the invention of garments. In their tufted
                     groves they neither feel the scorching beams of a vertical sun, nor ever know
                     the uncomfortable sensation of cold. Briars and shrubberies oblige them to take
                     some precaution, and the impulses of nature towards the encrease of the
                     species, have suggested the most simple means of preserving the faculties51 and
                     guarding against the dangers of mutilation, (see pag. 206). We are too apt to
                     look upon the principles which are early instilled into our mind by education
                     as innate, and have frequently mistaken a moral sentiment for a physical
                     instinct. From the contemplation of unpolished people,52 we find that modesty
                     and chastity, which have long been supposed inherent in the human mind, are
                     local ideas, unknown in the state of nature, and modified according to the
                     various degrees of civilization. It is not likely that the Mallicollese have
                     ever thought of banishing unseasonable ideas from the mind, by a contrivance
                     which seems much more apt to provoke their desires.53 Nay, it is uncertain
                     whether the scanty dress of their women owes its origin to a sense of shame, or
                     to an artful endeavour to please.</p>

                  <p n="726">The ideas of beauty seem to be more obvious, though singular and
                     different among divers nations. The Mallicollese are not satisfied with the
                     charms of their own person, but think that a stone hung in the nose, a
                     bracelet, a necklace of shells, and a shining black paint, set them off to
                     greater advantage. Their women, as far as we could observe, have no trinkets,
                     but paint themselves with the yellow colour of turmerick, which has a peculiar
                     aromatic smell. The natives of the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName> powder
                     their hair and the women of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> likewise paint
                     their face and garments with it. It may therefore be employed, on account of
                     its supposed virtues, rather than for ornament. The Mallicollese differ very
                     remarkably from the lighter-coloured nation of the South Sea, by keeping their
                     body entirely from punctures, which characterize all the various tribes of that
                     race.</p>

                  <p n="727">Their food seems to be principally vegetable, since they apply
                     themselves to agriculture. At times they may likewise feast on pork or fowls;
                     and though we had no time to observe any implements of fishing, yet, as they
                     have canoes, it may be supposed that they have not entirely neglected the
                     produce of the ocean. Our short stay did not give us an opportunity of seeing
                     any of their tools; but from the workmanship of their boats, and the
                     construction of their houses, we have no great reason to admire their skill in
                     the arts. Their island being wholly covered with forests, it must require a
                     great deal of labour to cultivate a spot of ground sufficient for their
                     support. The country itself appears very fertile; but the luxuriant growth of
                     wild vegetables, easily conquers and destroys the more tender shoots of those
                     which are planted. This being the case, it may serve to account for the custom
                     of confining their limbs to a small and slender form, by ropes, bracelets,
                     &amp;c. Such monstrous contrivances to pinch and contract the body, seem to be
                     dictated by necessity, and in time may have been adopted as the marks of
                     beauty. As their agriculture is so toilsome, it is plain they have not time to
                     manufacture a dress, for which they have no immediate necessity. Repose and
                     indolence are the favourite principles of small uncivilized societies, and
                     necessity alone forces them to become industrious. We have observed that the
                     Mallicollese pass away a part of their time with music and dancing. Their
                     instruments are doubtless very simple; we heard no other than drums; and these,
                     together with whistles or pipes, are most easily invented.54 The common
                     transactions of domestic life are so quiet and regular, that human nature seems
                     to require some excentric movement to animate it. At times to be extravagant in
                     the motions and exercises of the body, to produce a variety of sounds from
                     various substances, and to strain the vocal organs beyond their usual scale,
                     are functions perhaps indispensibly necessary in the revolution of human life,
                     to act as spurs or <hi rend="italics">stimuli</hi>, and to sweeten the
                     labours of the day.</p>

                  <p n="728">The drums of the Mallicollese not only serve as a pastime, but are
                     likewise employed to sound an alarm in cases of danger. We have great reason to
                     believe, that they are frequently involved in quarrels with the islanders in
                     the neighbourhood; and it is not improbable, that living dispersed throughout
                     the island in small families, they frequently disagree amongst themselves. We
                     never saw the Mallicollese without their arms, (except those who came into the
                     captain's cabin); and it seems much more care and ingenuity has been bestowed
                     on this part of their manufactures than upon any other. Their bows are strong,
                     elastic, and nicely polished; their arrows well wrought; and those which we
                     supposed to be poisoned, were very neatly ornamented. The custom of poisoning
                     the arrows is a proof of their understanding; and the desire of revenge against
                     unjust oppression, may have suggested it. Their small stature, and slender
                     make, seem indeed to require some artifice to supply the place of strength; but
                     it is at this moment doubtful, whether their arrows are really poisoned. The
                     dog on which we made the experiment on the day of our arrival, recovered
                     perfectly without any assistance, though he was afflicted with the most
                     dreadful illness from eating part of a poisoned fish. Another experiment was
                     tried in the sequel upon a different dog; an incision was made in his leg with
                     a lancet, and the gummy substance, supposed to be the poison, was laid into it,
                     and covered with a plaster. The dog was very lame a few days, from the swelling
                     and festering of the wound; but gradually recovered like the first. The
                     islanders of <placeName>Santa Cruz<ref target="#edn215">
                           <note xml:id="edn215" anchored="true">
                              <placeName>Egmont Island</placeName>, of <persName>captain
                                 Carteret</persName>. __See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol.
                              I. p. 576. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, who killed a number of <persName>captain Carteret's
                        men</persName>, seem, according to his description, to be very like the
                     Mallicollese; and are likewise accused of having poisoned arrows<ref target="#edn216">
                        <note xml:id="edn216" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mendaça's</persName>
                           voyage in <persName>Mr. Dalrymple's</persName> collection, vol. I. p. 78.
                        </note>
                     </ref>, by the Spanish navigator who first discovered that island. Their bows
                     and arrows, according to <persName>captain Carteret</persName>, are, however,
                     of a remarkable length<ref target="#edn217">
                        <note xml:id="edn217" anchored="true"> The bows are six feet five inches,
                           and the arrows four feet four inches. </note>
                     </ref>, and the latter pointed with flints. <persName>Quiros</persName> also
                     mentions poisoned arrows among the natives in the <placeName>Bay of St.
                        Philip</placeName> at <placeName>St. Jago<ref target="#edn218">
                           <note xml:id="edn218" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                                 Dalrymple's</persName> collection, vol. I. p. 135. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>; but from both instances it appears, that the supposed poison was
                     not very efficacious. The wooden ruffle, which secures the arms of the
                     Mallicollese against the recoil of the bow-string, seems to imply a frequent
                     use of their bows. Besides the missile weapons, such as arrows and spears, they
                     have also short clubs, seemingly for close engagement, and are thus well
                     prepared for all occasions. Their behaviour towards us was in general harmless,
                     but cautious. We received no invitations to stay with them; for they did not
                     like the proximity of such powerful people, being probably accustomed to acts
                     of violence and ill usage from the rest of their neighbours. In some of their
                     countenances we thought we could trace a mischievous, ill-natured disposition;
                     but we might mistake jealousy for hatred. It is probable, that being
                     continually on their guard, and engaged in wars, they have some chiefs and
                     leaders in battle, who, like the commanders at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, are obeyed at the time of action.55 The only man whom
                     we supposed to be a chief, at <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, did not appear
                     to be respected; and it was only when he procured us some fresh water, that we
                     could attribute to him any authority at all. Remarks on the government of a
                     people are seldom to be made at the first interview, and therefore I only offer
                     probabilities instead of facts. Their religion is entirely unknown to us, as
                     well as the particular customs of domestic life; nor can it be supposed, that
                     we could gather any intelligence concerning their diseases. We did not take
                     notice of any sick person among them during our stay; however, according to
                        <persName>Mr. de Bougainville's</persName> account, the natives on an
                     adjacent island are subject to the leprosy in such a high degree, that he named
                     it the <placeName>Isle of Lepers</placeName>.56</p>

                  <p n="729">The general character of the Mallicollese ought to be considered with a
                     retrospect to their civilization. Dispersed into small tribes, who have
                     frequent causes of dispute, it is not surprising that they are cautious and
                     distrustful. At the same time, however, their behaviour towards us shewed, that
                     they had not propensity to quarrel without a cause, but wished to give no
                     offence; and were in general much displeased with a few individuals among
                     themselves who attempted to infringe the peace. Green boughs, their signs of
                     friendship, confirmed this good disposition. The ceremony of pouring water on
                     their heads, is still more important, as it shews a great similarity between
                     them and the people of <placeName>New Guinea</placeName>. Dampier observed
                     exactly the same sign of amity at <placeName>Pulo Sabuda</placeName>, on the
                     western coast of <placeName>New Guinea<ref target="#edn219">
                           <note xml:id="edn219" anchored="true"> See <persName>Dampier's</persName>
                              <hi rend="italics">Voyages</hi>, vol. III. p. 186. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. The short conversations which we had with the Mallicollese,
                     proved them to be a people of quick perception; their senses are acute, and
                     their intellects very open to improvement. From their amusements it may be
                     concluded, that they are chearful and good-humoured; and if I may venture
                     another conjecture, they only want the impulse of an ambitious individual to
                     bring them into a higher state of civilization. After this detail, it is time
                     to resume the thread of our voyage.</p>

                  <p n="730">Having cleared the reefs of <placeName>Port Sandwich</placeName>, and
                     standing towards the <placeName>Isle of Ambrrym</placeName>, we gradually came
                     in sight of the south-east extremity of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>,
                     where four or five small islands form a kind of bay.
                        <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName>, on which the volcano is situated, appears to
                     be upwards of twenty leagues in circuit. The centre of the island lies in <geo select="lat" n="1">16° 15' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="1">168° 20'
                        E.</geo>
                     <placeName>Pa-oom</placeName>, the high peak to the south of it, is of an
                     inconsiderable size, but we were dubious whether the land which we saw before,
                     or to the westward of it, and which was of moderate height, is connected with
                     it or not. The whole circuit of both parts, supposing them to form a single
                     island, cannot exceed five leagues. The peak, according to our observations,
                     lies in <geo select="lat" n="2">16° 25' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="2">168° 30' E.</geo>
                     <placeName>Apee</placeName>, the island to the south of this peak, is large,
                     hilly, and of the same extent as <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName>, being nearly
                     seven leagues long. Its middle is situated in <geo select="lat" n="3">16° 42'
                        S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="3">168° 36' E.</geo> The numerous smokes
                     which arose from all these islands, gave us reason to suppose, that the natives
                     dress their victuals above ground, by an open fire. At the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>,
                     where the inhabitants are accustomed to stew their food, by means of heated
                     stones under the ground, we rarely perceived either smoke or fire.</p>

                  <p n="731">The fresh meal with which all our ship's company regaled themselves
                     this day, was very near being fatal to some of them. All the lieutenants and
                     their messmates, together with one of the mates, several midshipmen, and the
                     carpenter, having eaten of the red sea breams (<hi rend="italics">sparus
                        erythrinus</hi>) of which two had been caught, were in the space of a few
                     hours, seized with violent symptoms of being poisoned.57 It began with great
                     heat in the face, acute head-ache, severe vomiting, and diarrhœa; the arms,
                     knees, and legs were so benumbed, that they could scarcely walk or stand; the
                     salival glands were swelled, and a most copious discharge ensued; they were
                     also troubled with acute pains, and spasms in the bowels. A hog, which had
                     eaten of the garbage was seized with similar symptoms, swelled to a great size,
                     and died at night. Several dogs on board, having received a share of the
                     entrails, and some being fed upon part of the boiled fish, were affected in the
                     same manner; they groaned most pitifully, had violent reachings, and could
                     hardly drag their limbs along. A little favourite parroquet from the
                        <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>, which familiarly hopped on its
                     master's shoulder, having likewise tasted a morsel of the fish, died the next
                     day. In a word, the joy of having obtained a fresh meal was suddenly converted
                     into sorrow; and the only comfort in this misfortune was, that our surgeon had
                     dined with the captain this day, and by that means escaped the fate of his
                     messmates.</p>

                  <p n="732">We still continued in sight of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName>, <placeName>Apee</placeName>,and
                        <placeName>Pa-oom</placeName>, <date>[Sunday 24.]</date>the next morning;
                     but stood towards the southernmost island then in sight, and discovered on the
                     21st, which from the three hills upon it, was named <placeName>Three-Hills
                        Island</placeName> (see p. 204). We approached within half a mile of it, and
                     observed it to be of the same nature with those already discovered. It was well
                     wooded, and probably well inhabited; for some of the natives appeared on the
                     shore, who resembled those of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, and were armed
                     like them with bows and arrows. A very extensive reef runs out from the south
                     point58 of the island, with some rocks in it. The whole island seemed to be
                     about five leagues in circuit; its greatest extent was from north-east to
                     south-west; and according to astronomical observations, it is situated in <geo select="lat">17° 4' S.</geo> latitude, and <geo select="lon">168° 32'
                        E.</geo> longitude. At noon we put about, and stood for several small
                     islands and broken lands, which appeared off the S. E. end of the
                        <placeName>island of Apee</placeName>, and now lay to the N. E. of us. We
                     likewise had sight of a peak to the S.E. and of some land beyond that, which
                     seemed very large, though at a great distance. The number of islands in this
                     group was very surprising; and their direction to the southward, gave us great
                     hopes of continuing to make discoveries, which might gradually lead us back
                     once more to <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>.</p>


                  <p n="733">We stood on towards these north-easterly lands, and came among them in
                     the afternoon. They were of an inconsiderable size when compared to
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, <placeName>Ambryym</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Apee</placeName>, or even to <placeName>Three-hills
                        Island</placeName>, and <placeName>Pa-oom</placeName>. Most of them,
                     however, were inhabited; which circumstance we collected particularly in the
                     evening, when we saw several fires, even on those which we had by day-light
                     judged to have no inhabitants. After sunset we were becalmed for several hours
                     in the midst of these isles; the darkness of the night, and several broken
                     rocks close to us on all sides, rendered our situation extremely critical. The
                     navigator, who means to explore new islands, and give an accurate account of
                     their position, is often in danger of losing his ship. It is impossible for him
                     to form a just conception of the coast, without approaching close to it; but he
                     must necessarily be exposed to the dangers of a sudden storm, a sunken rock, or
                     a swift current, which are sufficient, in a few moments, to destroy all his
                     hopes of glory. Prudence and caution are very necessary in the conduct of every
                     great enterprize; but it seems, that in a voyage of discovery, as in every
                     undertaking of consequence, a certain degree of rashness, and reliance on good
                     fortune, become the principal roads to fame, by being crowned with great and
                     undeserved success.</p>

                  <p n="734">These dangerous islands received the name of <placeName>Shepherd's
                        Isles</placeName>, from the <persName>Rev. Dr. A. Shepherd</persName>, F. R.
                     S. professor of astronomy in the university of
                     <placeName>Cambridge</placeName>. We obtained a fresh breeze the same night,
                     and tacked off and on till the <date>[Monday 25.]</date>next morning at
                     day-break, when, being near the southermost island, we stood away to the
                     southward for the lands which we had discovered the day before. We passed to
                     the eastward of <placeName>Three-hills Island</placeName>, towards two other
                     isles a few leagues to the south of it, of a much smaller size, but covered
                     with verdure and groves in the same manner. We sailed between one of them and a
                     high columnar rock, which we named the Monument, from its remarkable shape.59
                     The surf which had beaten upon it, had worn several deep furrows and channels
                     into it. It looked blackish, might be an hundred and fifty yards high, and was
                     not wholly destitute of verdure. A great number of boobies and terns were seen
                     flying about it, and seemed to have taken up their residence on it. The larger
                     island, near which it was situated, was called <placeName>Two-hills
                        Island</placeName>, by <persName>captain Cook</persName>, because it had
                     only two elevations of any remarkable size.</p>

                  <p n="735">We now stood due south, towards the large land which appeared in that
                     quarter, and which we had already noticed on the 24th. A canoe, with a
                     triangular sail, was observed at a great distance, coming from the S. W.
                     towards <placeName>Three-hills Island</placeName>. The natives of these
                     different islands have therefore, in all likelihood, a friendly intercourse
                     with each other, in the same manner as the different inhabitants of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly
                     Islands</placeName>.60 In the afternoon we had almost made the southern island,
                     which now appeared to consist of two; and were preparing to pass to windward of
                     both, being near the eastermost of them, when the breeze suddenly failed us,
                     and we were carried to the west by the tide or current at a great rate. Our
                     situation this night was no less dangerous than on the preceding, with this
                     difference only, that the moon shone very bright, and we could judge of the
                     quick advances which we made towards the western island. Its northernmost point
                     was of a great height, rocky, black, and almost perpendicular, having only a
                     narrow beach, and a few scattered rocks at the bottom. We remained in the most
                     dreadful suspense till near <time>ten o'clock</time>, as the current was so
                     strong, that hoisting out our boats would scarcely have availed us any thing.
                     The ship's head, her stern, or her broad-side, were by turns directed towards
                     the shore, on which we heard the surf breaking with a much more dreadful sound
                     than it had ever had before, when unconnected with the ideas of immediate
                     danger; at last we fortunately drifted clear of the point at a short
                     distance.</p>

                  <p n="736">
                     <date>[Tuesday 26.]</date>The next morning a gentle breeze sprung up, with
                     which we advanced towards the land again. We now ran within the eastermost
                     island, which, though it was not above eight or nine miles in circuit, was
                     however inhabited, many of the people running along shore to gaze at us, with
                     bows, arrows, and darts in their hands. This isle had a hill of moderate height
                     in its centre, which appeared to be destitute of woods in most parts, the
                     cultivated lands and groves lying at its foot and on its first slope. They
                     consisted of coco-palms, bananas, and various other trees; amongst which we
                     discerned a number of small huts, and on the beach, several canoes hauled
                     ashore. The land opposite to the west was about four or five leagues distant
                     from it, and now likewise appeared to consist of two islands. One of these to
                     the north, the same on which we were near being lost, was small, not above
                     twelve or fifteen miles in circumference, but of moderate height, like the
                     former, and with much the same aspect. To the south of it, the main island
                     appeared, which extended no less than ten leagues from N. W. to S. E. It was of
                     a moderate height, like the two others near it, but very gently sloping in all
                     parts, and presented to the eye many beautiful prospects. Thick groves, and
                     extensive tracts of clear ground, were very agreeably varied, and the latter
                     had a rich yellowish colour, which exactly resembled the golden corn-fields of
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>. We all agreed that this island was one of the
                     finest we had hitherto seen in the new group, and seemed to be well situated
                     for the purpose of an European settlement.61 We kept at a considerable distance
                     from it; but it appeared to us to be more thinly inhabited than those which we
                     had left to the northward. This circumstance would facilitate the establishment
                     of a colony; and if the spirit of philanthropy could ever animate the planters,
                     they would here have an opportunity to become the benefactors of the natives.
                     From what we observed at <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, this race of men is
                     very intelligent, and would readily receive the improvements of civilization.
                     There appeared to be a bay towards the N. W. end of the island, which we did
                     not examine, on account of several small islands and reefs lying before it to
                     the eastward. It appeared to form a deep indenture on the shore, and to be more
                     accessible from the westward. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> named this
                     extensive <placeName>island Sandwich</placeName>, that to the north
                        <placeName>Hinchinbrook</placeName>, and the other to the east
                        <placeName>Montagu</placeName>. The middle of <placeName>Sandwich
                        Island</placeName> lies in <geo select="lat">17° 40' S.</geo> lat. and <geo select="lon">168° 30' E.</geo> long.</p>

                  <p n="737">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 27.]</date>We ran to the south-eastward all the afternoon and
                     night; but at day-break, the next morning, another island was seen ahead, about
                     fourteen leagues distant, <placeName>Sandwich</placeName> being still faintly
                     in sight, nearly at the same distance. Our ships now perfectly resembled an
                     hospital; the poisoned patients were still in a deplorable situation; they
                     continued to have gripes, and acute pains in all their bones: in the day time
                     they were in a manner giddy, and felt a great heaviness in their heads; at
                     night, as soon as they were warm in bed, their pains redoubled, and robbed them
                     entirely of sleep. The secretion of <hi rend="italics">saliva</hi> was
                     excessive; the skin peeled off from the whole body, and pimples appeared on
                     their hands. Those who were less afflicted with pain, were much weaker in
                     proportion, and crawled about the decks, emaciated to mere shadows. We had not
                     one lieutenant able to do duty; and as one of the mates, and several of the
                     midshipmen were likewise ill, the watches were commanded by the gunner and the
                     other mates. The dogs which had unfortunately fed upon the same fish, were in a
                     still worse condition, as we could not give them any relief. They groaned and
                     panted most piteously, drank great quantities of water, and appeared to be
                     tortured with pain. Those which had eaten of the entrails were infinitely more
                     affected than the rest. One of these poor creatures was doomed to be a martyr,
                     being the same upon which we tried the Mallicollese arrows; however, he luckily
                     got the better of both these attacks, and was brought to
                        <placeName>England</placeName>. It is remarkable, that <placeName>captain
                        Quiros</placeName> complains of a sort of fish, which he calls pargos, that
                     poisoned a great part of his crew, in the bay of <placeName>St.
                        Philip</placeName> and <placeName>St. James</placeName>. Nothing is more
                     probable, than that it was of the same species, pargos being the Spanish name
                     of the sea-bream (<hi rend="italics">pagrus</hi>). It is to be suspected, at
                     the same time, that these fishes are not always poisonous, but, like many
                     species in the <placeName>West and East Indies</placeName>, may acquire that
                     quality, by feeding on poisonous vegetables.62 The circumstance, that the
                     intestines were more poisonous than the rest, seems to confirm this
                     supposition; the greatest part of the venom remaining in the <hi rend="italics">primœ viœ</hi>, whilst only a small part was carried into
                     the muscles, by the chyle63 and blood.</p>

                  <p n="738">We had had very mild weather after leaving
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, but the trade-wind had blown fresh from
                     time to time. At present, however, being in sight of this new island, we were
                     stopped by light airs and faint breezes. <date>[Thursday 28.]</date>All the
                     next day we lay becalmed, and rolled about very uncomfortably, being set to the
                     northward several leagues by a current. In the evening we discovered another
                     island very far off to the south-eastward, of which for the present we took no
                     notice. <date>[Friday 29.]</date>The day after we obtained a breeze towards
                     noon, which continued <date>[Saturday 30.]</date>till the next day in the
                     evening, and brought us within six leagues of the land. In the afternoon one of
                     the dogs, less affected with the poison of the fish than the rest, being quite
                     recovered, we determined to try another experiment with the poison of the
                     Mallicollese arrows. An incision was made with a lancet in his thigh, and the
                     resinous substance sticking on the bony point of the arrow, as well as the
                     green earthy stuff which lodged in the compartments formed by the coco-nut
                     fibres, were scraped off, and laid into the wound, covered with a plaster, in
                     order to make the experiment as fair as possible. The dog, as I have already
                     mentioned, recovered as quickly as if nothing had been laid into the wound.</p>

                  <p n="739">
                     <date>[Sunday 31.]</date>The next morning it was absolutely calm again, and
                     many of our sailors observed, that the island before us was certainly
                     enchanted, because our attempts to come near it had hitherto failed. At present
                     we saw the other island to the south,64 which had been discovered on the 28th,
                     more distinctly than before. The nearer island seemed to be less fertile and
                     agreeable than those which we had hitherto discovered; it seemed, however, to
                     be inhabited, which we concluded on seeing a great smoke rise from it. Our
                     situation was the more disagreeable, as it was tantalizing to be in sight of
                     land, and not to be able to approach it. Notwithstanding its supposed
                     barrenness, which precluded the hope of refreshments, we were all very desirous
                     of being better acquainted with it. We never felt the tediousness of being
                     confined to the ship more severely, nor ever wished more eagerly to have
                     intercourse with human creatures. The company of savages, and an opportunity of
                     contemplating their manners, dwellings and plantations, were at present, in our
                     estimation, desirable objects. In the afternoon two sharks were caught, which
                     swam about the ship, attended by pilot and sucking-fishes. One of these huge
                     voracious animals seemed to be a species of epicure, having in his maw no less
                     than four young turtles, of eighteen inches in diameter, two large
                     cuttle-fishes, and the feathers and skeleton of a booby; but though he was well
                     fed, he did not disdain a piece of salt pork, with which we baited our hook.
                     The sailors had no sooner hauled them on deck, than every one drew his knife,
                     and in a few moments divided them into small pieces, which they hastened to
                     dress, and to devour. One of the sharks making some resistance in hauling up,
                     was shot dead by our officers, who were equally concerned with the rest of
                     their shipmates to prevent his escape. In this manner we revenged the cause of
                     the whole submarine creation. Salt provisions are more loathsome in hot
                     climates than every where else, which is partly owing to the raging thirst they
                     occasion. As we had lived upon salt meat since we left
                        <placeName>Namoka</placeName>, it may be easily imagined that no shark was
                     ever more delicious to our taste. A faint breeze sprung up at night, with which
                     we proceeded towards the land once more. We discerned a single rock
                        <date>[1774. August.][Monday 1.]</date>the next morning lying off its north
                     end, at the distance of a few leagues; and as we approached, found the island
                     less barren than we had at first supposed. Towards <time>ten o'clock</time>, we
                     were most dreadfully alarmed by a fire in the ship. Confusion and horror
                     appeared in all our faces, at the bare mention of it; and it was some time
                     before proper measures were taken to stop its progress: for in these moments of
                     danger, few are able to collect their faculties, and to act with cool
                     deliberation. The mind which unexpected and imminent danger cannot ruffle for a
                     time, is one of the scarcest phӕnomena in human nature; no wonder then, that it
                     was not to be met with among the small number of persons to whom the ship was
                     entrusted. To be on board of a ship on fire, is perhaps one of the most trying
                     situations that can be imagined; a storm itself, on a dangerous coast, is less
                     dreadful, as it does not so entirely preclude all hopes of escaping with life.
                     Providentially, the fire of this day was very trifling, and extinguished in a
                     few moments. Our fears suggested that it was in the sail-room; but we soon
                     found, that a piece of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, carelessly laid
                     near the lamp in the steward's room had taken fire, and raised a quantity of
                     smoke, which gave the alarm. In proportion as we advanced towards the land, we
                     discerned fine woods upon it, interspersed with glades and plantations on the
                     very summits of the hills. A number of coco-palms were likewise observed upon
                     it, which had not however that noble appearance, by which we distinguished them
                     in other countries.</p>

                  <p n="740">In the afternoon we came up with the west side of the island, and
                     running close to the shore, we observed several small beaches, at the foot of
                     steep hills, covered with plantations. These chiefly consisted of bananas, and
                     were confined in neat enclosures, near which we also noticed several houses
                     like sheds.65 Thirty or forty natives were seen running along the shore, armed
                     with bows and arrows, as well as spears. They looked very swarthy at a
                     distance, and resembled the people of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>. Some
                     women were observed among them, who wore a kind of petticoat, apparently made
                     of leaves and straw, which descended to the mid-leg, or sometimes nearly to the
                     ancles;66 the men on the contrary were naked, like the Mallicollese. We entered
                     a kind of open bay, where the natives of both sexes waded a good way into the
                     water, and called to us, to all appearance, with very friendly gestures. We
                     stood across the bay, where it was not thought proper to anchor. It was growing
                     dark when we opened the southernmost point, and saw the coast stretching to the
                     east. As the wind was falling again, we did not attempt to stand in shore any
                     longer, but rather endeavoured to keep off during night, for fear of being set
                     towards it by the current. Every morning and evening, at sun-rise and sun-set,
                     our sailors washed the decks from one end to the other, to prevent the heat
                     from drying them up too much, and making them leaky. This evening one of the
                     marines, who was drawing water on the ship's side, for this purpose, had the
                     misfortune to fall over-board. He was not able to swim; however, by bringing
                     the ship to instantly, and throwing a number of ropes over-board, one of which
                     he seized, we succeeded in our endeavours to save him. The poor fellow was
                     immediately conducted between decks, by his comrades the marines, being much
                     weakened by the efforts he had made to save himself by keeping fast hold of the
                     rope, as well as the sudden fear of death. They shifted his clothes, and gave
                     him a dram or two of brandy to revive the animal spirits, treating him with
                     peculiar tenderness, the result of an <hi rend="italics">esprit du
                        corps</hi>, to which sailors are at present utter strangers.67</p>

                  <p n="741">
                     <date>[Tuesday 2.]</date>The calms which had so long persecuted us, were not
                     yet at an end. Our ship lay like a log on the water all night, and the next day
                     being gradually drifted into the bay which we had passed the day before, the
                     boats were hoisted out, and sent in quest of anchorage. They had no soundings
                     till they came near the shore, but there had found twenty fathom, at the
                     distance of three cables lengths (six hundred yards). The natives were seen
                     running to the beach again, but our people held no converse with them; for
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> seeing a breeze spring up, made the signal
                     for them to return, and hoisted them in again. The cannon which was fired on
                     the occasion, seemed to have no particular effect on the natives, who were
                     doubtless utterly unacquainted with our arms, and with Europeans.</p>

                  <p n="742">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 3.]</date>We sailed round the N. W. point of the island, and in
                     the morning advanced towards the single rock, which we had noticed before. A
                     very remarkable mountain with a double summit, which had some resemblance to a
                     saddle, lay on the island just abreast of this rock, and seemed to be of great
                     height, even though the rest of the island had a considerable elevation. The
                     detached rock appeared to be covered with wood, and our ship being greatly in
                     want of fuel, two boats were hoisted out and sent towards it. The hopes of
                     making some botanical acquisitions, engaged us to embark in one of these boats.
                     The distance which had been supposed trifling, was found to be near five miles;
                     but after rowing all this space, we were wholly disappointed. An enormous surf
                     broke upon the rock on all sides, which rendered the landing absolutely
                     impracticable. In vain we rowed all round it, casting many a longing look at
                     the verdure and trees with which we saw it covered. A large bat, and some small
                     birds were observed flying through its bushes; and a number of fish swam among
                     the broken rocks; but the former did not come within musket-shot, and the
                     others refused to take our hooks. Returning back to the ship we caught a
                     water-snake (<hi rend="italics">coluber laticaudatus</hi>, Linn.) of the
                     same sort which had been observed so plentiful on one of the low isles off
                        <placeName>Maria Bay</placeName>, in <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>.
                     (See vol. I. p. 478.)</p>

                  <p n="743">After returning on board, a gentle breeze sprung up, and we stood into
                     a kind of bay, close under the <placeName>Saddle-peak</placeName>, to the
                     westward of it. We came in towards evening, and found the bay very extensive,
                     above eight miles wide, but not above two deep. <placeName>The
                        Saddle</placeName> which forms a kind of peninsula, lies on its east side,
                     and shelters it from the trade-wind, being very steep towards the point, but
                     gradually sloping into lesser hills towards the bottom of the bay. Every part
                     of the shore was well cultivated between the wild groves; and every plantation
                     seemed to be enclosed in very neat fences of reed, exactly resembling those
                     which we had observed at the <placeName>Friendly Isles</placeName>. We dropped
                     an anchor about a quarter of a mile from shore, having a low point a-head of
                     us, behind which there appeared to be a harbour. The natives lined the shore in
                     great crouds; some of them swam off, and came within hail, but no nearer;
                     crying out and screaming aloud to us. They appeared at a distance to resemble
                     the Mallicollese, and were swarthy; one of them however, had reddish hair, and
                     was fairer than the rest. It was remarkable that not a single canoe appeared,
                     either on the water, or hauled ashore; though we can hardly suppose so fine an
                     island to be destitute of boats. As it was growing dark, all the swimmers
                     returned to the shore, and made several fires in their plantations. Our
                     provision of fresh water being very low, and that which we filled at
                        <placeName>Namoka</placeName> being very bad, we rejoiced to have found a
                     place, where the appearance of the country, gave us the greatest hopes of
                     meeting with a fresh supply, not only of this necessary article, but of all
                     sorts of refreshments. All those who had been poisoned by the red fish at
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, were not yet wholly recovered, but felt
                     their pains returning every night, their teeth lose, and their gums and palate
                     excoriated. They likewise hoped to get rid of the remains of their tedious
                     sickness, by making some stay on this island, and recruiting their strength
                     with wholesome fresh food, to which they had long been strangers. But all our
                     expectations proved abortive and premature.</p>

                  <p n="744">
                     <date>[Thursday 4.]</date>Early in the morning, <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> ordered two boats to be properly armed and manned, and
                     commanding himself in one, and entrusting the other to the care of the master,
                     went in search of a convenient watering-place. He first rowed towards the shore
                     directly abreast of the ship, where a number of natives not less than sixty,
                     were assembled on the beach. As soon as he was near the shore, some of the
                     natives came into the water, round the boats, where the captain distributed to
                     them nails, medals, <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, &amp;c. with which
                     they seemed vastly delighted. He soon put off, and rowed along the shore, more
                     ahead of the ship, round the low point which I have already mentioned, the
                     natives running along in the same direction. The boats having got round the
                     point, which might be about three quarters of a mile off, continued out of
                     sight near an hour. In the mean time, the natives were observed running towards
                     the point from all parts, whilst a great number sat down opposite the ship,
                     gazing at it with the greatest attention. At once we heard the discharge of
                     some muskets, and an irregular fire kept up for some time. Upon this alarm,
                     another boat was instantly equipped, and sent to the assistance of the former,
                     and a swivel shot directed over the point. A great gun was likewise brought
                     upon the fore-castle, and fired off towards the hills. This struck a panic into
                     the inhabitants in our sight, who all hastened to screen themselves in the
                     bushes; many were seen running out of the plantations on the hills, roused by
                     the sound, and hurrying away again, as soon as they beheld their countrymen put
                     to flight. We also saw several dragging a dead or wounded man up one of the
                     hills, from the place where we heard the fire of our boats. In a little time
                     the captain returned in one boat, while the two others continued to sound in
                     the bay. One of our seamen was brought into the ship with a wound in the cheek
                     and another in the wrist; and we had the following account from
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> and those who accompanied him, concerning
                     this unfortunate attack. The boats had no sooner rowed round the point than
                     they found a good landing-place, where the captain and another person stepped
                     ashore. He found several hundred natives armed with bows and arrows, clubs, and
                     long spears. Their stature was of the middle size, and much superior to that of
                     the Mallicollese; they were indeed nearly of the same swarthy hue, but better
                     limbed and better featured. They went stark naked, with a rope only about the
                     middle, and were for the rest to the full as indecent in the eyes of Europeans
                     as the Mallicollese. Black paint and ruddle68 were likewise not spared on some
                     of their faces; their hair was black, very curly or frizzled, but not woolly in
                     all persons alike, and in a great quantity. Some, however, had reddish hair,
                     and all had strong black beards.</p>

                  <p n="745">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> began with distributing presents to several
                     of the natives, and particularly to a man who appeared to have some authority
                     over the rest.69 Having expressed by signs that he wanted fresh water and other
                     provisions, the chief sent away some men, and continued to converse by signs.
                     In a short time the men returned, bringing a hollow bamboo filled with fresh
                     water, a few coco-nuts, and the root of a yam. Our people understood from their
                     gestures, that they had fetched the water at a little distance, but it seemed
                     the natives were not inclined to let them walk thither to examine it. Their
                     numbers encreasing every moment, the captain re-embarked, and ordered his boat
                     to be pushed off. One of the natives immediately seized an oar, but another
                     took it out of his hand and threw it back towards the boat. Some then took hold
                     of the gang-board, which the sailors had neglected to secure, and hauled the
                     boat back to the shore, whilst others came into the water and seized the boat
                     itself, taking out two other oars. The chief stood near the boat, and seemed to
                     direct this whole manӕuvre. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> levelled his
                     musket at the natives, but here, as at <placeName>Savage Island</placeName>,
                     (see pag. 166.) the piece missed fire several times. The natives seeing him
                     take aim, and readily conceiving that what he held in his hand was a weapon,
                     drew their bows and poised their spears. A volley of arrows was directed at our
                     people, and several spears were thrown into the boat. One of them, without any
                     carving and perfectly blunt, wounded a seaman in the cheek. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName>, seeing the lives of his people in danger, ordered them to
                     fire, but it was some time before any of them could discharge their muskets.
                     The first discharge killed two natives, who fell close to the boat. The rest,
                     still undismayed, ran back a little at first, but returned briskly to the
                     charge, throwing stones and shooting arrows at our people. The other boat
                     likewise fired upon them, but only two or three of their muskets went off;
                     however, they also killed and wounded some other natives. It is remarkable,
                     that though the best flints are to be had in <placeName>England</placeName>,
                     and though government allows the highest price for them to the contractors, yet
                     are our troops supplied with the very worst flints by these people, who use
                     every means to amass a fortune at the expence of the public. Some attention
                     ought to be paid to an article, upon which the lives of many thousand subjects,
                     nay often the success of engagements, in great measure depends<ref target="#edn220">
                        <note xml:id="edn220" anchored="true"> It has been observed by foreigners,
                           who have been spectators of military manӕuvres, abroad as well as in
                              <placeName>Hyde-Park</placeName>, that upon a company's firing several
                           rounds, six private men at least retire behind the lines to draw or to
                           fire their muskets, which did not go off before. This singular
                           circumstance is not owing to any defect in the locks, but to the badness
                           of the flints. All foreign troops are in that respect superior to the
                           British. </note>
                     </ref>. An arrow hit the master on the naked breast, but being entirely spent,
                     it did not even fetch blood. It consisted of a reed, armed with a long point of
                     black wood, which was jagged or bearded with many indentures on one side. Some
                     of the natives who were wounded crawled upon all fours into the bushes. When
                     our swivels and cannon were fired from the ship, the whole croud dispersed;
                     some, however, hid themselves behind a sandy elevation, which served as a
                     breast-work, from whence they continued to annoy our people, who for some time
                     amused themselves to fire at them as often as their heads appeared. At last,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> seeing a third boat come to his assistance
                     returned on board, and ordered the other two to sound the bay. From his account
                     of this unhappy dispute, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> has invented a
                     drawing, which is meant as a representation of his interview with the
                     natives.70 For my own part, I cannot entirely persuade myself that these people
                     had any hostile intentions in detaining our boat. The levelling of a musket at
                     them, or rather at their chief, provoked them to attack our crew. On our part
                     this manӕuvre was equally necessary; but it is much to be lamented that the
                     voyages of Europeans cannot be performed without being fatal to the nations
                     whom they visit.</p>

                  <p n="746">After breakfast we weighed the anchor, and prepared to stand farther
                     into the bay, our boats having found convenient anchorage nearer to the
                     watering-place. All the western coast of the bay was covered with thousands of
                     palms, which had a beautiful effect, and appeared to be different from the
                     coco-palm. We soon came in sight of the place where the engagement had
                     happened. A few natives who stood here and there on the shore, ran into the
                     woods on seeing the ship. We saw the two oars which they had taken out of the
                     boat stuck in the ground and leaning on the bushes; but it was not thought
                     proper to send a boat in quest of them, though the coast was clear. After we
                     had entertained hopes of coming to an anchor again for some time, the captain
                     gave orders to put about, and stood to the eastward round the saddle-peak,
                     which was now called <placeName>Traitor's Head</placeName>.71 We tacked all the
                     morning, in order to weather that point, but could not accomplish it till
                        <time>three o'clock in the afternoon</time>, when we opened a bay
                     immediately to the eastward of it. This bay extended very far inland, and
                     seemed to contain several snug creeks or harbours. The lands on both sides were
                     covered with the thickest woods, which had a most fertile and enchanting
                     appearance. To the south, the land sloped very gently, offering a fine exposure
                     of vast extent almost wholly cultivated, and in all likelihood rich in
                     vegetable productions. We were just abreast of this bay, and perhaps in doubt
                     whether we should not go in, when the island appeared in sight again to the
                     south, which we had already discovered on the 28th of July. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> now resolved to relinquish the nearer island, and to proceed
                     to the more distant one, in order to leave as little unexplored as possible.
                     The breeze was very fresh, and we left the island with great rapidity. It is
                     situated in <geo select="lat">18° 48' s</geo>outh latitude, and <geo select="lon">169° 20' e</geo>ast longitude<ref target="#edn221">
                        <note xml:id="edn221" anchored="true"> We have given it the name of
                              <placeName>Irromanga</placeName>, for, as we afterwards learnt on an
                           adjacent island, this is the name by which it is known among the natives.
                           See the next chapter.72 </note>
                     </ref>, and is nearly of a square figure, which measures at least 30 leagues in
                     circuit. We stood southerly towards the new island, with studding sails set,
                     which had been in disuse with us ever since we arrived among this group of
                     isles. Several fires appeared upon the island at night, one of which blazed up
                     from time to time like the flame of a volcano.</p>

                  <p n="747">
                     <date>[Friday 5.]</date>At day-break we saw a low island at the north-eastward
                     of us, having passed close to it during the night, and a high one nearly east
                     of us, at the distance of eight or nine leagues. The low island was covered
                     with coco-palms, but we could not determine whether it consisted of a circular
                     reef or not. The large island, towards which we still directed our course,
                     extended from N. W. to S. E. and consisted of a high range of mountains.
                     Towards the southeastern extremity, at the end of a secondary range of hills,
                     we discovered a volcano, of which we had really seen the fire at night.73 It
                     was a low hill, much lower than any in the same range, and of a conical shape,
                     with a crater in the middle. Its colour was reddish brown, consisting of a heap
                     of burnt stones, perfectly barren, but it offered a very striking sight to our
                     eyes. A column of heavy smoke rose up from time to time, like a great tree,
                     whose crown gradually spread as it ascended. Every time that a new column of
                     smoke was thus thrown up, we heard a very deep rumbling sound like thunder, and
                     the columns followed each other at very short intervals. The colour of the
                     smoke was not always the same; it was white and yellowish in general, but
                     sometimes of a dirty reddish grey, which we suspected to be partly owing to the
                     fire in the crater which illuminated the smoke and ashes. The whole island,
                     except the volcano, is well wooded, and contains abundance of fine coco-palms;
                     its verdure, even at this season, which was the winter of these regions, was
                     very rich and beautiful.</p>

                  <p n="748">After <time>eight o'clock</time> we hoisted out our boats, and the
                     master went to sound a harbour, which appeared in view to the east of the
                     volcano. They ran in very fast, and were followed by two canoes of the natives,
                     which put off from different parts of the coast; another canoe was seen at a
                     distance sailing along shore. In a little time they made signals for the ship
                     to follow. We stood on into the harbour, which has a narrow entrance, and as we
                     kept a man constantly sounding in the chains, we were greatly alarmed when our
                     soundings suddenly decreased from six fathom to three and a half; however, an
                     instant afterwards we had four, five, and more fathoms. It appeared that we had
                     providentially passed over a rock before the entrance, on which we had run the
                     greatest risk of striking. The harbour was a small snug bason, where we let go
                     our anchor in four fathom, surrounded by a number of natives in their
                     canoes.</p>

                  <p n="749">This was the only anchorage where we made any stay in all the extensive
                     cluster of islands which we had now discovered. We provided our ship with wood
                     and water, but did not obtain any refreshments worth mentioning. The principal
                     advantage which we derived from putting in here, consisted in a few remarks on
                     a race of people, in a great measure distinct from all the tribes which were
                     known to us before. But while we were entertained with various new and striking
                     objects, it was very disagreeable to be tantalized with the sight of wholesome
                     vegetable and animal food, with which the natives did not choose to supply
                     us.74</p>

               </div>
               <div n="2" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. II.<lb/>
                     Account of our stay at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and departure from the
                           <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="750">
                     <date>[1774. August.][Friday 5.]</date>HAVING brought the ship to an anchor, we
                     were well pleased to see the natives coming off in their canoes from different
                     parts of the bay, and paddling round about us at a little distance. Their
                     behaviour at first was very irresolute; though all were armed with spears,
                     clubs, bows and arrows. One or two came close to us, and sent a yam, or a
                     coco-nut, upon the deck, for which we made them presents of our goods.1 In a
                     few moments the number of canoes encreased to seventeen; some of them contained
                     twenty-two men; others ten, seven, five, and the smallest only two; so that the
                     number of people about us exceeded two hundred. They pronounced several words
                     to us from time to time, and seemed to propose questions; but if we uttered a
                     word of the <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> or
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> dialect, they repeated it, without seeming
                     to have the least idea of it. By degrees they were familiarized with our
                     appearance, and ventured close along side. We had hung a net overboard astern,
                     containing salt meat for dinner; which the sea water was to freshen, as we did
                     every day; one of the natives, an old man, seized this net, and was about to
                     detach it; but being called to, he instantly desisted. However, another shook
                     his dart at us upon this occasion, and still another adjusted an arrow to his
                     bow, taking aim by turns at different persons on the quarter-deck.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> imagined that the discharge of a cannon
                     might be of great service, to prevent any unhappy differences with the natives,
                     by apprizing them of our power. He made sign accordingly to the canoes to
                     paddle aside, in order to keep clear of the shot. It was remarkable that they
                     were not offended by this sign, which had the air of authority, but readily
                     dropped astern. The gun was fired towards the shore, and the two hundred people
                     leaped out of their canoes into the sea in the same instant. Only a single
                     young man, very well made, and of a very open friendly countenance, remained
                     standing in his canoe, without the least marks of surprize or fear, but looking
                     with a mixture of mirth and contempt at his affrighted countrymen. They
                     presently recovered their station in their canoes, and seeing no ill
                     consequences had ensued after our bravado, conversed very loud with each other,
                     and seemed to laugh at their own fears. They kept off however at a little
                     distance, and did not shew any hostile inclinations.</p>

                  <p n="751">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> did not like the ship's birth, but resolved
                     to carry her deeper into the bay. To that purpose, a boat was sent off with an
                     anchor, and our people proceeded in their operation without being molested. The
                     buoy, however, which belonged to our first anchor, appeared so tempting, that
                     an old Indian, who was quite bald, put off in his canoe, and endeavoured to
                     carry it away, at first by towing it, but afterwards by detaching it from its
                     rope. As soon as we perceived that he was seriously at work about it,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> called to him to desist, but he was not
                     able so much as to divert his attention. The captain fired a musket loaded with
                     small shot at him; and some of the shot having struck him, he immediately threw
                     the buoy out of his canoe. A few moments after, however, feeling himself very
                     little hurt, he returned once more to complete his former undertaking. A
                     musket, with a ball, was now fired rather short of him into the sea; upon this
                     he left the buoy, and came long side to present us with a coco-nut. There was
                     something bold and generous in his behaviour, which I think plainly indicated,
                     that he offered us his friendship, after making trial of our spirit. Our boat
                     having laid the anchor in the ground with another buoy, came on board, and we
                     began to warp in by it. The buoy tempted another native, notwithstanding the
                     correction which his countryman had received. He was afraid of taking it up;
                     but paddled several times towards it, and as often turned back again. At last
                     the temptation prevailed, and he began to haul it into his canoe. A large
                     musketoon was fired at him, and the ball fell close to him, striking the water
                     several times, and at last dropping on the beach. A number of people stood near
                     the place, and immediately ran off; but the man in the canoe returned again to
                     the buoy. Another musketoon, a swivel, and last of all a cannon were fired,
                     which terrified him and all the natives both on the water and on shore, without
                     doing them any hurt.</p>

                  <p n="752">We brought the ship deeper into the bay, after this little disturbance;
                     but in warping her in, she struck aground several times, being drawn out of the
                     deep channel. The water was very smooth, and the bottom covered with mud, so
                     that she could receive no material damage, and the fault was easily redressed.
                     We then went to dinner very quietly, and afterwards proceeded to the beach in
                     three boats, well manned, especially by all our marines. The opportunity seemed
                     very favourable, as the numbers of natives in sight was very small, and not
                     likely to give us any trouble. A few of them, who were seated in the grass
                     along the beach, ran off upon our landing, but returned as soon as we beckoned
                     to them. On our left, or to the westward, we saw a body of about a hundred and
                     fifty, well armed, who advanced towards us with the green branches of
                     coco-palm, which they presented us in sign of peace. We distributed medals,
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth,2 and iron ware, to conciliate their
                     good will; and afterwards exchanged these articles for a few coco-nuts which
                     they brought us, after we had pointed to the trees, and made our wants
                     intelligible by different gestures.3 One of our first requests was, that they
                     should sit down; which was imperfectly complied with: another, that they should
                     not transgress a line which we drew on the sand; and to this they readily
                     assented. We presently found a pond of very palatable fresh water, and made
                     signs to the natives, that we came to provide ourselves from thence, and that
                     we also desired leave to cut some trees. They immediately pointed out several
                     wild trees which we might cut, only excepting the coco-palms, of which
                     innumerable quantities covered the shore. We filled two small barrels with
                     water, and cut down a few trees, to shew in what manner we intended to proceed;
                     and the natives appeared to be satisfied. Our marines were however drawn up,
                     and the least motion they made so terrified the inhabitants, that they ran off
                     to a considerable distance, only a few old men remaining near us. We desired
                     them to lay down their arms; and even in this demand, which was in itself
                     unreasonable, the greatest part acquiesced. Their stature was of the middle
                     size, and their persons infinitely stronger, and better proportioned, than
                     those of the Mallicollese. Their colour was a dark or chestnut brown, with a
                     very swarthy mixture. Like the natives of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>,
                     they went stark naked, having only a string round the belly, which did not cut
                     their body in such a shocking manner, as we had observed at that island. We saw
                     some women at a distance, who did not seem to be so ugly as those of
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, and wore a kind of petticoat, which
                     descended below the knee. Two girls had each a long spear in their hand, but
                     did not venture nearer than the rest. We collected a number of words from these
                     people, among which, far the greatest part were entirely new to us; but
                     sometimes they expressed the same idea by two words, one of which was new, and
                     the other corresponded with the language of the <placeName>Friendly
                        Islands</placeName>; from whence we had reason to conclude, that they have
                     some neighbours of the other race, who speak that language.4 They also told us,
                     that they call their own island Tanna, a word which signifies " <hi rend="italics">earth</hi>" in the Malay language. This last we looked upon
                     as a great acquisition; for the indigenous name of a country is always
                     permanent.5 We made but a short stay among these people, and returned on board
                     as soon as we had filled our casks. We now thought the peace concluded, and
                     every difficulty conquered; but we found matters in a very different situation
                     the next morning. Our intercourse with them had hitherto been peaceable,
                     because they did not feel themselves a match for us; but it seems they were
                     very far from purposing to give us free admittance into their country. They
                     looked upon us as invaders, and appeared jealous of their property, and
                     resolved to defend it.</p>

                  <p n="753">We saw the flame of the volcano in the evening, blazing up, with an
                     explosion once in five minutes or thereabouts. The transactions of the day
                     prevented my speaking of this wonderful phӕnomenon, though it was in continual
                     agitation. Some of the explosions resembled very violent claps of thunder, and
                     a rumbling noise continued for half a minute together. The whole air was filled
                     with smoky particles and with ashes, which occasioned much pain when they fell
                     into the eye. The decks, rigging, and all parts of the ship were covered with
                     black sherl ashes in the space of a few hours, and the same sand, mixed with
                     small cinders and pumice stones, covered the sea-shore. The distance of this
                     volcano from our harbour was five or six miles; but several hills lay between,
                     so that we only saw its summit, which threw up the smoke from a crater,
                     consisting of several ragged points.</p>

                  <p n="754">
                     <date>[Saturday 6.]</date>Early in the morning, the ship was moored still more
                     conveniently and nearer to the shore. The natives appeared at sun-rise coming
                     out of their groves and consulting together on the beach. In order to make the
                     sequel more intelligible, it will be necessary to give a slight sketch of the
                     appearance of the country which enclosed the harbour.6 The point which forms
                     its eastern shore is very low and flat, but presently rises into a level hill,
                     about fifteen or twenty yards high, which is wholly laid out in plantations.
                     This encompasses the eastern and southern shore of the bay, being near three
                     miles long, and extending several miles inland to the sea on the other side.
                     Where this flat hill ends, a fine plain covered with plantations runs to the
                     southward, bounded by several ranges of pleasant hills, of which the nearest
                     are of easy ascent. To the west this plain, as well as the whole bay itself, is
                     enclosed by a steep hill, three or four hundred yards high, which is nearly
                     perpendicular in most places. A narrow beach of large broken shingles and
                     stones runs along the western shore, but a perpendicular rock separates it from
                     the southern beach. This last is very broad, and consists of a firm black sand;
                     it bounds the plain, and is the same where we cut wood and filled our casks
                     with water. A beach of coral rock and shell sand continues from thence along
                     the foot of the flat hill quite to the eastern point of the harbour. The flat
                     hill does not lie close to this beach, but a space of level land, thirty or
                     forty yards wide, covered with groves of palms, extends to its foot. The whole
                     south-east corner of the bay is filled with a flat reef of coral, which is
                     overflowed at low water.</p>

                  <p n="755">A few canoes put off one by one from the shore, and each brought a
                     coco-nut or two and a cluster of bananas for sale, which they readily exchanged
                     for <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth. As soon as the natives in them had
                     disposed of their cargo, they returned to the shore and brought off another.
                     One of them offered <persName>captain Cook</persName> his club, and, having
                     agreed to take a piece of cloth for it, it was let down into his canoe.
                     However, he had no sooner received this cloth, than he took no farther trouble
                     to fulfil his agreement. The captain spoke to him several times, by such signs
                     as the man seemed to understand, but all in vain; a musket, charged with small
                     shot was fired into his face, upon which he, and two men who were with him,
                     betook themselves to paddling with the greatest agility. Their canoe was
                     pursued from deck by several shots from the ship's musketoons; one of them fell
                     so near them, and rebounded so often from the water, that they all jumped into
                     the sea and swam ashore. A great concourse of natives was presently observed
                     near the spot where they landed, to whom they probably related their story. A
                     few minutes after, a single man came off to us in a canoe, with some
                     sugar-canes, coco-nuts, and yams. He was an old man, of a low stature, but had
                     a very friendly countenance, which announced his good disposition. He had been
                     active the preceding afternoon to preserve the peace with our people, and his
                     arrival was therefore the more acceptable to us. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> made him a present of a complete dress of the best red
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, with which the old man was highly
                     pleased. He had in his canoe two large clubs, none of these people ever going
                     without arms; but <persName>captain Cook</persName>, being in one of our boats
                     along side, took them out and threw them into the sea, making signs to the man,
                     that all his countrymen on shore should lay down their arms. The old fellow
                     liked this proposal exceedingly, and seeming entirely contented with the loss
                     of his clubs, returned to the shore, where we observed him parading for some
                     time in his new dress. Vast numbers of people were now seen assembling on the
                     beach from all quarters of the island, but far the greatest part came down from
                     the steep hill on the west side of the bay. The bushes and groves on the plain
                     were filled with men, of whom none went without arms. Towards <time>nine
                        o'clock</time>, having fixed a spring on the cable, we prepared to land in
                     the launch and two other boats, with all our marines and a party of seamen well
                     armed.7 As soon as the natives saw our boats coming, they hastened out of the
                     bushes on the beach, and formed chiefly in two large bodies, one on each side
                     of the watering-place. That on the west side was by far the most considerable,
                     consisting of no less than seven hundred men, in a compact body, who seemed
                     prepared for action. On the east side we guessed there might be about two
                     hundred men, who, though equally well armed, had however a more peaceable look.
                     In the middle, between them, stood the little old man who had been with us just
                     before, and two other natives. These three were unarmed, and had laid a heap of
                     bananas on the beach. Having approached within twenty yards of the beach,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> called to the natives, and made signs for
                     them to lay down their arms, and to recede from the beach. But of this demand
                     they took no manner of notice, perhaps thinking it absurd and unjust that a few
                     strangers should prescribe laws to them on their own ground. As it was not
                     thought prudent to land between the two bodies of natives, and to expose
                     ourselves to an attack in which many of these innocent people, and perhaps some
                     of us, might have been killed, <persName>captain Cook</persName> ordered a
                     musket-ball to be fired over their heads, in order, if possible to frighten
                     them away. Indeed, the whole body was immediately in motion at the sound; but,
                     soon recovering from their surprize, the greatest number stood their ground.
                     One of them, standing close to the water's edge, was so bold as to turn his
                     posteriors towards us, and slap them with his hand, which is the usual
                     challenge with all the nations of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> ordered another musket to be shot into the
                     air, and, at this signal, the ship played her whole artillery, consisting of
                     five four-pounders, two swivels, and four musketoons. The balls whistled over
                     our heads, and making some havock among the coco-palms, had the desired effect,
                     and entirely cleared the beach in a few moments. Only our old peace maker, with
                     his two friends, remained unconcerned near his pile of fruit, which he
                     presented to the captain as soon as he had landed, at the same time desiring
                     him not to shoot any longer. An interesting picture, representing this landing
                     at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>,composed by <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>,
                     with great ingenuity, has been engraved for <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     account of this voyage. It is one of those pieces in which the skill of that
                     able artist is displayed in its full force.8</p>

                  <p n="756">Our first care was to draw up the marines in two lines, to guard the
                     waterers. Stakes were driven into the ground on both sides, and ropes fastened
                     to them, leaving a space of fifty or sixty yards clear, for our people to pass
                     and repass unmolested. By degrees they ventured out of the bushes, and came
                     upon the beach, where we made signs to them not to transgress our lines, which
                     none of them attempted. The captain once more repeated his signs, that they
                     should lay down their arms; those on the west did not attend to them, but the
                     other party, who were in some measure connected with our old friend, complied
                     for the greatest part. The old man told us his name, which was
                        <persName>Paw-yangom</persName>,9 and was permitted to stay within the lines
                     if he chose.</p>

                  <p n="757">We now endeavoured to advance into the woods in quest of plants, but we
                     had not got twenty yards, before we saw numbers of natives behind every bush,
                     who kept up a communication between the two parties on the beach. It was
                     therefore impossible to make any great acquisitions at first, and we contented
                     ourselves with two or three new species. With these we returned on the beach,
                     and by endeavouring to converse with the party on our left (to the east of us)
                     filled our vocabularies with many words of their language. We often offered to
                     purchase their arms, but they constantly refused to part with them. However,
                     one of them disposed of a cylindrical piece of alabaster, two inches long,
                     which he wore as a nose-jewel. Before he delivered it, he washed it in the sea,
                     whether from a principle of cleanliness, or not, we cannot determine. During
                     the whole time of our stay on shore this morning, the natives did not attempt
                     to molest or attack us; and those on our left seemed very well disposed, and
                     gave us hopes, that we might establish a friendly intercourse with them in a
                     short time. As we now saw a great part of the inhabitants of this island
                     assembled, we had the best opportunity of forming an adequate idea of their
                     general habit of body, their dress and arms. They are of the middle-sized
                     stature, but many among them may be reckoned tall. Their limbs are well made,
                     and rather slender; some are likewise very stout and strong; but those
                     beautiful outlines, which are so frequent among the people of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>,
                     and of the Marquesas, are rarely to be met with at
                     <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. I did not observe one single corpulent man among
                     them; all are active, and full of spirit. Their features are large, the nose
                     broad, but the eyes full, and in general agreeable. Most of them have an open,
                     manly, and good-natured air, though some may likewise be found, as in other
                     nations, whose countenance betrays malevolence. The colour of their hair is
                     black; however, we observed some which had brown or yellowish tips. It grew
                     very thick and bushy, and in generally frizzled; but in a few individuals, it
                     still preserved a degree of woolliness. The beard is likewise thick, black, and
                     frizzled. The colour of their whole body is a dark chestnut brown, which is
                     frequently mixed with a blackish hue, so that it appears at first sight, as if
                     it were sullied with soot; and their skin is extremely soft to the touch, as is
                     observed to be the case with Negroes. They almost go perfectly naked; but, true
                     to the general characteristic of mankind, wear several sorts of ornaments. They
                     dress their hair after the following method: they take a quantity, not
                     exceeding a pigeon's quill in thickness, and wrap it in a thin thread or
                     ribbon, made of the stalk of a bindweed, so that only a small tuft remains at
                     the end. All the hair on the head is disposed exactly in the same manner, so
                     that they have several hundred <hi rend="italics">queues</hi>, three or four
                     inches long, standing on end, and diverging every way,</p>

                  <p n="758">
                     <q>Like quills upon the fretful porcupine.
                        <persName>Shakespeare</persName>.10</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="759">If these parcels are a little longer, from five to eight or nine
                     inches, they hang down on both sides of the head, and in that case, the wearer
                     strongly resembles a river-god, with his lank hair all soaked and dripping.11
                     Some however, and particularly those who have woolly hair, let it grow without
                     torturing it into any particular form, or, at farthest, tie it in a bunch on
                     the crown of the head with a leaf. Most of them wear a thin stick or reed,
                     about nine inches long, in their hair, with which they occasionally disturb the
                     vermin that abound in their heads. A reed set with cock's or owls feathers, is
                     likewise sometimes stuck in the hair as an ornament.12 A few of them also wear
                     a cap made of a green plantane leaf, or of matted work, on their heads. Some
                     twist their beard into a kind of rope, but the greater number leave it in its
                     natural form. The cartilage between the nostrils is commonly perforated, and in
                     the aperture, they wear a cylindrical stone, or a bit of reed, half an inch
                     thick. The ears are pierced with a very large hole, in which they wear a number
                     of rings of tortoise-shell, or of a piece of white shell an inch in diameter,
                     and three quarter's of an inch broad. Sometimes one ring is fastened within the
                     other, so as to form a kind of chain. Round their neck they sometimes pass a
                     string, to which they fasten a shell, or a small cylindrical piece of green
                     nephritic stone, resembling that which is common at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>.13 On the left upper arm, they commonly have a bracelet
                     made of a piece of coco-nut-shell, either curiously carved, or plain and
                     polished, between which they frequently stick some plant, as the <hi rend="italics">euodia</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">hortensis<ref target="#edn222">
                           <note xml:id="edn222" anchored="true"> See Forst. <hi rend="italics">Nov. Gener. Plantar</hi>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </hi>, the <hi rend="italics">croton variegatum</hi>, <hi rend="italics">lycopodium phlegmaria</hi>, <hi rend="italics">vitex trifolia</hi>, or
                     a species of <hi rend="italics">epidendrum</hi>. Some of them wear a belt,
                     or sash, of a kind of coarse cloth, made of the inner bark of a tree, which is
                     commonly of a dark cinnamon colour. Round their middle they tie a string, and
                     below that, they employ the leaves of a plant like ginger<ref target="#edn223">
                        <note xml:id="edn223" anchored="true"> Of the order of <hi rend="italics">scitamina</hi>. </note>
                     </ref>, for the same purpose, and in the same manner as the natives of
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>. Boys, as soon as they attain the age of
                     six years, are already provided with these leaves, which seems to confirm, what
                     I have observed in regard to the Mallicollese, viz. that they do not employ
                     this covering from motives of decency.14 Indeed it had so much the contrary
                     appearance, that in the person of every native of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>
                     or <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, we thought we beheld a living
                     representation of that terrible divinity, who protected the orchards and
                     gardens of the ancients.15 To complete the list of their ornaments, I must add
                     their paints and incisions. The paints are reserved for the face; they are red
                     ochre, white lime, and a colour shining like black lead; all these they mix
                     with coco-nut oil, and lay on the face in oblique bars, two or three inches
                     broad. The white colour is seldom employed, but the red and black is more
                     frequent, and sometimes each covers one half of the face. The incisions are
                     chiefly made on the upper arm, and the belly, and supply the place of
                     punctures, which are common in the lighter-coloured race of men, who inhabit
                     the <placeName>Friendly and Society Islands</placeName>,<placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, and the
                        <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>. They cut the flesh with a bamboo, or sharp
                     shell, and apply a particular plant, which forms an elevated scar on the
                     surface of the skin, after it is healed. These scars are formed to represent
                     flowers, and other fancied figures, which are deemed a great beauty by the
                     natives. A single man only was observed, who had a figure punctured on his
                     breast, which appeared to have been performed in the same manner as among the
                     nations above enumerated.</p>

                  <p n="760">The weapons which the men of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> constantly
                     carry are bows and arrows, clubs, darts and slings. Their young men are
                     commonly slingers and archers, but those of a more advanced age make use of
                     clubs or darts. The bows are made of the best club-wood (<hi rend="italics">casuarina</hi>) very strong and elastic. They polish them very highly,
                     and perhaps rub them with oil from time to time, in order to keep them in
                     repair. Their arrows are of reed, near four feet long. The same black wood,
                     which the Mallicollese employ for the point, is likewise made use of at
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>;16 but the whole point, which is frequently
                     above a foot long, is jagged or bearded on two or three sides. They have
                     likewise arrows with three points, but these are chiefly intended to kill birds
                     and fish. Their slings are made of coco-nut fibres, and worn round the arm or
                     waist; they have a broad part for the reception of the stone, of which the
                     people carry with them several in a leaf. The darts or spears are the third
                     sort of missile weapons at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. They are commonly made
                     of a thin, knotty, and ill-shaped stick, not exceeding half an inch in
                     diameter, but nine or ten feet long. At the thickest end they are shaped into a
                     triangular point, six or eight inches long, and on each corner there is a row
                     of eight or ten beards or hooks. These darts they throw with great accuracy, at
                     a short distance, by the help of a piece of plaited cord, four or five inches
                     long, which has a knob at one end, and an eye at the other. They hold the dart
                     between the thumb and fore-finger, having previously placed the latter in the
                     eye of the rope, the remaining part of which is slung round the dart, above the
                     hand, and forms a kind of noose round it, serving to guide and confine the dart
                     in its proper direction, when it is once projected. I have seen one of these
                     darts thrown, at the distance of ten or twelve yards, into a stake four inches
                     in diameter, with such violence, that the jagged point was forced quite through
                     it.17 The same thing may be said of their arrows; at eight or ten yards
                     distance they shoot them very accurately, and with great force; but as they are
                     cautious of breaking their bows, they seldom draw them to the full stretch, and
                     therefore at twenty-five or thirty yards their arrows have little effect, and
                     are not to be dreaded. The clubs are reserved for close engagement, and every
                     grown man carries one of them, besides some of the missile weapons. They are of
                     four or five different shapes. The most valuable are made of the <hi rend="italics">casuarina</hi>, about four feet long, strait, cylindrical,
                     highly polished, and knobbed at each end. One knob, which they grasp in the
                     hand, is round, but the other, with which they strike, is cut out into the
                     figure of a star, with many prominent points. Another sort of clubs are about
                     six feet long, and have a great knob or lateral excrescence at one end, which
                     appears to belong to the root. These are made of hard wood, but of a greyish
                     colour. A third kind is about five feet long, and has a flat piece, eight or
                     ten inches long, projecting at right angles, which greatly resembles a
                     farrier's fleam18 in shape, and is formed with a very sharp edge. A fourth is
                     exactly like this, but has one of these flat blades on each side of the handle.
                     Lastly, a fifth is simply a piece of coral rock, about eighteen inches long,
                     and two in diameter, rudely shaped into a cylinder. Sometimes this is likewise
                     made use of as a missile weapon.</p>

                  <p n="761">We saw but few women on this day, and those who appeared kept at a
                     great distance from us; however they all seemed ill-favoured, and of smaller
                     stature than the men.19 The young girls had only a string tied about the
                     middle, with a little wisp of dry grasses fastened to it, before and behind;
                     but those of a maturer age wore a short petticoat made of leaves. Their ears
                     were hung full of tortoiseshell rings, and necklaces of shells fell on their
                     bosom. Some of the oldest had caps made of a plantane-leaf, or of matted work,
                     but this head-dress was rather uncommon.</p>

                  <p n="762">Towards noon the greater part of the natives left the beach, as the
                     weather grew very hot, and the hour of taking food was approaching. We likewise
                     embarked, having filled a quantity of fresh water, and returned to dine on
                     board.</p>

                  <p n="763">About three in the afternoon we went ashore again, and did not find a
                     single man on the beach. At a considerable distance to the eastward we saw
                     about thirty sitting under the shade of their palms, but they did not care to
                     come towards us. We took this opportunity of rambling about two or three
                     hundred yards into the country, where we collected several new plants. We found
                     that part of the plain, at the foot of the level hill, was uncultivated, and
                     filled with a variety of spontaneous shrubs and trees, but did not venture far
                     out of the reach of protection, as we were not yet upon a sure footing with the
                     natives. Having passed some time in the bushes, we walked towards the people
                     whom we had observed seated on the grass. Our friend
                        <persName>Paw-yangom</persName> met us about halfway, and presented my
                     father with a little pig, for which he received a large nail, and a piece of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth in return. This good old man now
                     accompanied us to our boats, where <persName>captain Cook</persName> had given
                     orders to haul the seine. By degrees the natives whom we had seen, all came
                     towards us unarmed, and conversed with us, as well as they could, with the
                     greatest cordiality. Our fishermen were extremely successful, and took upwards
                     of three hundred weight of mullets and other fish<ref target="#edn224">
                        <note xml:id="edn224" anchored="true"> Particularly a sort common in the
                              <placeName>West Indies</placeName>, and there called ten-pounders
                              (<hi rend="italics">esox argenteus. N. S.</hi>). </note>
                     </ref>. <persName>Paw-yangom</persName> seemed greatly desirous of obtaining
                     some of them; and we made him exceedingly happy, by gratifying his desire.
                     About sunset we returned in high spirits with our capture, it being a long time
                     since we had been able to provide a fresh meal for the whole ship's company. </p>

                  <p n="764">The volcano which had played at long intervals in the morning, entirely
                     ceased its explosions in the afternoon. <date>[Sunday 7.]</date>The next
                     morning, however, at <time>four-o'clock</time>, it began to blaze up again;
                     some showers of rain having fallen over night. Its fires afforded us a most
                     pleasing and magnificent sight. The smoke, which slowly rolled up from time to
                     time, in thick and heavy volumes, was coloured with all the various hues of
                     yellow, orange, crimson, and purple, which died away into a reddish grey and
                     brown. As often as a new explosion happened, the whole country, with its shaggy
                     forests, was tinged with the same orange and purple, according to its distance,
                     or particular exposure to the volcanic light.</p>

                  <p n="765">We landed after breakfast. The natives, who were assembled in great
                     crouds, though not near so numerous as the day before, did not attempt to
                     hinder our landing, but immediately made way for us. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> however found it necessary to stretch ropes again on both
                     sides, in order to keep our back free from them. The greater part still refused
                     to sell their arms; but some were not so strict, and parted with both darts and
                     spears. My father gave <persName>Paw-yangom</persName> a hatchet for the pig
                     which he had received the day before, and explained to him the use of it. He
                     was extremely well pleased with it, and shewed it to his countrymen. Many of
                     them made signs to us that they wanted the same present, which we promised
                     them, if they would bring us hogs; but this offer was entirely unsuccessful. A
                     tent was erected this day, where <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, the
                     astronomer, made his observations. A few of the natives were in high spirits,
                     and danced about, shaking their darts at some of our people, but the rest
                     remained very quiet. At noon <persName>captain Cook</persName> returned on
                     board with us, leaving the lieutenant of marines with his men on shore. We had
                     not been long on board, before we heard a musket fired, and saw the natives
                     disturbed. However, they were soon pacified, and returned to their former
                     station. All our people came off about three of the clock, in order to dine on
                     board. We then heard that one of the inhabitants had offended the officer, by
                     making the same unmannerly gesture with which we had been challenged the day
                     before. Upon this he was shot in the thigh, and made off into the woods. His
                     countrymen likewise prepared to run away, but their old people pacified
                     them.20</p>

                  <p n="766">The success of the preceding afternoon tempted us to haul the seine a
                     second time this evening, by which means we got about forty-eight pounds of
                     fish. When we landed we saw very few natives, but in a short time they
                     collected near us in great crouds, most of them without any arms, having left
                     them in the bushes, probably to please us. Towards sunset they all dispersed,
                     and only a few remained; who came up and told us that they wanted to go to
                     sleep.21 We made signs to them to depart, and they all left us immediately. We
                     thought we might explain this behaviour as a kind of ceremony, and that they
                     did not think it civil to leave their guests alone in their own country. This
                     circumstance would imply, that they have ideas of propriety and decency, which
                     we should hardly have expected among an uncivilized people.</p>

                  <p n="767">The next morning <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, with my father and
                     myself, landed under the steep mountain on the west side of the bay, where a
                     party of sailors were sent to load shingle for ballast. A little swell came in
                     upon the shore in this place, which obliged us to wade through the surf. On the
                     steep sides of the hill we gathered several new plants, and slid down the
                     precipice several times. Different sorts of minerals appeared in this place.
                     The principal strata of the steep hill consist of a species of clay, very soft,
                     and crumbling in pieces when exposed to the air and moisture. We also found a
                     species of black sand-stone, a substance resembling rotten-stone (<hi rend="italics">lapis suillus</hi>), and some pieces of chalk, which were
                     either pure, or tinged with a reddish colour, perhaps arising from particles of
                     iron. We walked several hundred yards along the beach, towards the west point
                     of the harbour, and at last seeing a path which led up the hill, prepared to
                     advance into the country, when we were met by a number of natives, who were all
                     armed. We then rejoined our party, who loaded ballast, and traded with the
                     natives for a few sugar-canes and coco-nuts. They all sat down on the rocks
                     near us; and one of them, to whom the rest paid some deference, exchanged names
                     with my father. He was called <persName>Oomb-yégan</persName>. This custom of
                     making friendship, by a reciprocal exchange of names, is common in all the
                     southern islands which we had hitherto visited, and in reality has something in
                     it very engaging and affectionate. After having been in this manner adopted
                     among the natives, we continued upon the best terms imaginable, and collected
                     great supplements to the vocabulary.22 They made us a present of some leaves of
                     a fig, which had been wrapped in banana-leaves, and stewed. They were extremely
                     well tasted, and might be eaten as a substitute for our spinach. We likewise
                     obtained two large plantanes of the coarser sort; which proved, that even here
                     the spirit of hospitality is natural to the inhabitants. The women and children
                     brought down these dainties from the hills, and presented them to us; but they
                     were so extremely timorous, that if we only fixed our eyes upon them, they
                     instantly ran away, to the great entertainment of the men. However, their
                     coming so near us, was sufficient proof that we had made great progress towards
                     gaining their confidence. We observed some of them which had a smile on their
                     countenance, but in general they looked gloomy and melancholy. They had
                     earrings and necklaces like the men, and the married women wore caps of matted
                     work. The greater part of them had nose-jewels of white stone. Whenever we
                     presented a bead, a nail, or ribbon to any of the people, they refused to touch
                     it, but desired us to lay it down, and then took it up in a leaf.23 Whether
                     this was owing to some superstitious notions, or to a fancied idea of
                     cleanliness, or of civility, must remain a matter of doubt. Towards noon our
                     party re-embarked, and we went on board with them, the greatest part of the
                     natives having already retired to their dwellings on the hill. The afternoon
                     was spent in fishing again, but without our former success, for we only caught
                     about two dozen of fish, after many repeated hauls of the net. The natives on
                     the beach were very numerous; and their presence made it improper for us to
                     ramble far into the woods. We therefore confined ourselves to the skirts, and
                     collected a few words of their language.</p>

                  <p n="768">
                     <date>[Tuesday 9.]</date>We returned to the same place the next morning, where
                     our people had loaded ballast the day before. We climbed about the rocks for
                     several hours in the heat of the day, without much success; and were only
                     tantalized by the appearance of a rich forest, into which we could not venture
                     to advance with any degree of prudence. Before we returned on board again, we
                     discovered a hot spring coming out of the rock close to the water's edge. We
                     had no thermometer at hand; but the degree of heat was such, that we could not
                     bear to hold a finger in the water above a single second. As soon as we had
                     returned to the ship at noon, <persName>captain Cook</persName> likewise came
                     from the watering party, and brought one of the natives with him in his boat.
                     We soon discovered him to be the same young man, who had shewed so much
                     coolness and bravery on the first day of our arrival, by remaining in his
                     canoe, when near two hundred of his country-men leaped into the sea at the
                     discharge of a cannon, (see p. 263). He told us his name was
                        <persName>Fannòkko</persName>, and enquired for our names, which he
                     endeavoured to remember. He, as well as all his countrymen, had not the same
                     facility of pronunciation as the Mallicollese; we were therefore obliged to
                     tell him our names, modified according to the softer organs of the Taheitians.
                     His features were rather handsome; his eyes large, and very lively; and the
                     whole countenance expressed good-humour, sprightliness, and acuteness. To
                     mention only a single instance of his ingenuity; it happened that my father and
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, on comparing their vocabularies,
                     discovered that each had collected a different word to signify the sky; they
                     appealed to him, to know which of the two expressions was right; he presently
                     held out one hand, and applied it to one of the words, then moving the other
                     hand under it, he pronounced the second word; intimating that the upper was
                     properly the sky, and the lower the clouds which moved under it. He likewise
                     gave us the names of several islands in the neighbourhood. That from which we
                     came to <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and on which <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> had an unhappy difference with the natives, he called
                        <placeName>Irromanga</placeName>. The low island which we had passed in
                     standing in to this harbour he named <placeName>Immèr</placeName>; a high
                     island, which we had discovered to the east of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, on
                     the same day, <placeName>Irronàn</placeName>; and another to the south, which
                     we had not yet seen, <placeName>Anàttom</placeName>. He sat down to dinner with
                     us, and tasted of our salt pork, but did not eat more than a single morsel of
                     it. Some yams, fried in lard, or simply boiled, he relished better; but he ate
                     very sparingly upon the whole, and finished his repast with a small portion of
                     pye, made of dried and worm-eaten apples, which seemed to be very agreeable to
                     his palate. He also tasted a little wine after dinner; but though he drank it
                     without shewing any dislike, he did not choose to take a second glass. His
                     manners at table were extremely becoming and decent; and the only practice
                     which did not appear quite cleanly in our eyes, was his making use of a stick,
                     which he wore in his hair, instead of a fork, with which he occasionally
                     scratched his head. As his hair was dressed in the highest fashion of the
                     country, <hi rend="italics">à la porc-épic</hi>,24 greased with oil and
                     paint, our stomachs were so much the more easily offended; though
                        <persName>Fannòkko</persName> had not the least notion that such an action
                     was reprehensible.</p>

                  <p n="769">After dinner we walked about the decks with him, and shewed him
                     different parts of the ship. He soon fixed his eyes on one of our Taheitian
                     dogs, which he called <hi rend="italics">boòga</hi>, hog; a sure sign that
                     dogs are unknown in his country. He seemed so desirous of possessing this
                     creature, that captain Cook made him a present of one of each sex. Besides
                     this, he received a hatchet, a large piece of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>
                     cloth, some spike-nails, medals, and other trinkets of less value, with which
                     we carried him back to the shore, happy beyond expression. As soon as he landed
                     he left the beach with his riches, and walked into the country to his home.</p>

                  <p n="770">We took a walk to the eastward along the shore of the bay, and looked
                     into the groves which skirted the flat hill, of which I have spoken above. We
                     found these groves to consist of coco-palms, and several species of shady
                     fig-trees, with eatable fruits, nearly of the size of common figs. We also
                     observed several sheds, under which some of their canoes were secured from the
                     sun and weather; but there were no habitations, except towards the eastern
                     point. We were still above three hundred yards from thence, when a great number
                     of natives came and begged us not to go farther; some likewise ran to
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and pointing to us, desired him to recall
                     us. We returned to our party, and endeavoured to penetrate into the country,
                     immediately at the back of our waterers. We found a path, which led through a
                     variety of bushes, upon the flat hills. In our way to it, we crossed some
                     glades, or meadows, enclosed in woods on all sides, and covered with a very
                     rich herbage of the most vivid green. On our ascending the hill, we were met by
                     three natives, who endeavoured to persuade us to return; but seeing us resolved
                     to proceed, they accompanied us. We passed through a little airy grove, into
                     several extensive plantations of bananas, yams, eddoes, and fig-trees, which
                     were in some places enclosed in fences of stone two feet high. We heard the
                     surf beating on the shore to the south, and seeing the three natives very
                     uneasy at our progress, we told them we only wished to behold the sea. They led
                     us to a little eminence, from whence we got sight of it, and of an island eight
                     or ten leagues distant, which was the same that <persName>Fannòkko</persName>
                     had named <placeName>Anattom</placeName>. It appeared to be of considerable
                     height; and though not of the same extent as <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, was
                     probably about ten or twelve leagues in circuit. Having seen this island, the
                     natives invited us to go on farther inland with them, with the same eagerness
                     which they had before expressed to keep us back; but as we took notice, that
                     one of them was sent before the rest, we did not care to trust their
                     invitations at that time, which might however, for aught I know, have been very
                     friendly and honest. We retreated therefore gradually to the beach, having
                     picked up a new plant, and seen so much of the country, as only made us more
                     desirous of examining it. Our people had once more tried their luck in fishing,
                     but were not by far so fortunate as the first time. The natives attended to
                     their method of hauling the net, and from their gestures, we learnt that they
                     are unacquainted with this contrivance, and only dart or shoot with arrows at
                     the fish, when they rise near the surface of the water. They never failed to
                     beg for some fish as often as our people hauled the seine, which is some
                     confirmation that they rarely catch or strike them.25 As often as they took
                     notice of any thing new to them, they broke out into the interjection, <hi rend="italics">heebou</hi>! They likewise made use of the same word, when
                     they were suddenly surprised, when they admired, or disliked, or coveted any
                     thing. The different tone and gesture with which it was either drawled out, or
                     quickly repeated several times in a breath, strongly marked the various
                     affections of the mind. They snapped their fingers at the same time, especially
                     when they expressed their admiration.</p>

                  <p n="771">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 10.]</date>We went on shore at the watering-place the next
                     morning, immediately after breakfast. A party of our people had been there ever
                     since day-break, and told us they had seen many of the natives passing by them,
                     from the eastern part of the bay, loaded with bundles, which they carried into
                     the country. Our men were of opinion that they had actually removed, in order
                     to remain undisturbed, and out of the reach of our fire-arms; but as we never
                     found many habitations on this part of the shore, our arrival might at first
                     have drawn together a number of people from other parts of the island, who
                     occasionally lodged in the woods thereabouts, but now returned to their own
                     dwellings, seeing that no farther mischief was to be apprehended from the
                     strangers, who had arrived among them. We endeavoured to conquer their
                     diffidence more and more, by counting on our fingers, that we only intended to
                     remain a certain number of days on the island; and we found that they were
                     always much pleased and pacified by this intelligence. It must be observed,
                     however, that all those who carried loads this morning were women, whilst the
                     men walked on unconcernedly without any incumbrance, except their arms. It
                     should appear from this circumstance, that the people of Tanna are not yet
                     arrived at that advanced state, which distinguishes the natives of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.
                     All savage nations have the general character of using the other sex with great
                     unkindness and indignity, obliging them to perform all sorts of laborious, and
                     humiliating operations.26</p>

                  <p n="772">The removal of the natives was soon discernible, as those who came on
                     the beach to us, were in very small numbers. We therefore took the opportunity
                     of walking out upon the plain, behind the watering-place. We met with several
                     ponds of stagnant water, in which the natives had planted great quantities of
                     eddoes (<hi rend="italics">arum</hi>). The coco-palms formed spacious
                     groves, full of different shrubberies, where a great number of birds of
                     different sorts, chiefly fly-catchers, creepers, and parroquets resided. We saw
                     likewise many lofty trees, covered with nuts, which are common at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, (<hi rend="italics">inocarpus</hi> Nov.
                     Gen.). These trees were commonly the resort of pigeons of different kinds, and
                     chiefly of the sort which are to be met with at the <placeName>Friendly
                        Islands</placeName>, where the natives catch and tame them. It should seem
                     that the inhabitants of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> likewise practise fowling;
                     for one of our lieutenants shot a pigeon this day, which had two very long
                     white feathers fastened to its tail by strings; he had believed it to be a new
                     and singular species of bird, till he discovered the artifice. We met with some
                     natives on this excursion, who told us, that one of our people had killed two
                     pigeons; but this intelligence was only valuable to us, on account of the
                     language in which it was conveyed, which was exactly the same with that spoken
                     at the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>. It appeared to us that he made
                     use of this language, in order to be more intelligible to us, having frequently
                     observed that we pronounced several words of it. We expressed some surprize
                     however, at his knowledge, and he then repeated the same meaning in the
                     language of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, which was totally distinct from the
                     other. He added at the same time, that the former language was spoken at the
                        <placeName>island of Irronan</placeName>, which lies seven or eight leagues
                     to the east of <placeName>Tanna<ref target="#edn225">
                           <note xml:id="edn225" anchored="true"> He likewise acquainted us, that
                                 <placeName>Irronan</placeName> was sometimes called
                                 <placeName>Footoona</placeName>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. Perhaps a colony of the same race, who inhabit the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, and all the easterly islands of the
                        <placeName>South Pacific Ocean</placeName>, may have settled on that island;
                     or perhaps the natives of <placeName>Irronan</placeName> keep up a
                     communication with the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, by means of
                     some Isles unknown to us, lying between them.27 </p>

                  <p n="773">We made another excursion in the afternoon, and saw but few inhabitants
                     in our way, though we advanced near three miles on the plain. We always told
                     them, that we wanted to kill birds, and they immediately went on without giving
                     us any uneasiness. We shot indeed a number of small birds, but the grass was so
                     thick that we lost almost all of them. We passed by some plantations of bananas
                     and sugar-canes, but saw no houses, the greatest part of the ground being
                     uncultivated, and covered with shady forests, or low shrubberies. At the end of
                     the plain we observed a long, and spacious valley, from whence we saw a great
                     number of smokes rising, and heard the promiscuous voices of many men, women,
                     and children. We stood in a path, on both sides of which were thick
                     shrubberies; and the vale itself was so full of groves, that we neither saw the
                     people, whose voices we heard, nor any of their dwellings. It being late in the
                     evening, we proceeded no farther, and without discovering ourselves, retreated
                     to the beach.</p>

                  <p n="774">The volcano had been quiet ever since the 7th, and though it continued
                     to emit smoke from time to time, yet the rumbling had entirely ceased. The fire
                     within the crater, still however illuminated the clouds of smoke. We had heavy,
                     and almost continual rains all night. In the morning we landed on the beach,
                     and saw but few inhabitants; we therefore repaired to its westernmost corner,
                     where we had observed a path which led to the steep hill on the west side of
                     the bay. We ascended by very easy steps, through the most delightful groves of
                     spontaneous trees and shrubs, which every where spread a fragrant and
                     refreshing smell. Several kinds of flowers embellished the tufted foliage, and
                     the most beautiful bindweeds climbed like ivy to the summits of the tallest
                     trees, and adorned them with garlands of blue and purple blossoms. A number of
                     birds twittered round us, and gave life to a scene, which would without them
                     have been inanimate. Indeed, we did not see a single native on the first slope
                     of this hill, nor did we meet with any plantations. Having walked up about half
                     a mile by different windings, we came to a little glade, covered with delicate
                     herbage, and surrounded with the most beautiful wild trees of the wood. Here
                     the sun shone excessively hot upon us, the place being entirely sheltered from
                     winds. A sulphureous smell however, soon betrayed a kind of steam rising out of
                     the ground, which added to the heat of the place. There was a little mound of
                     whitish earth, which looked as if it were calcareous, on the left side of the
                     path, almost hid by the branches of several sorts of wild fig-trees, that
                     throve luxuriantly in this neighbourhood. From this mound we saw a vapour, or
                     steam rising continually; the earth was so hot, that we could hardly bear to
                     stand upon it, and we found it impregnated with native sulphur. When we stirred
                     in the white earth, we found the steam coming up faster; and on tasting it, we
                     observed a styptic28 or astringent quality, like that of alum in it. From this
                     place we walked on a great way higher, and came to another open place, which
                     lay on the slope, and was rather barren. Here likewise we found two other
                     spots, which emitted steam, but not in such quantities as the first, nor so
                     strongly scented. The earth which covered these solfatarras, was of the same
                     nature as that on the first, and had a greenish tinge from the sulphur with
                     which it was penetrated. But in the neighbourhood of it, we found red ochre of
                     the same sort with that which the natives employ to paint their faces. The
                     volcano was more loud than ever we had known it this day, and at every
                     explosion we observed the steam rising much more copiously than before, in
                     thick white clouds, from the solfatarras.29 This circumstance seems to
                     indicate, that they have a subterraneous connection with, or are, by some means
                     unknown to us, affected by the convulsions of this burning mountain. We
                     remarked that this was the second time the explosions of the volcano had
                     recommenced after showers of rain; and were therefore led to suspect, that the
                     rain in some measure excites these explosions, by promoting or encreasing the
                     fermentation of various mineral substances in the mountain. Having contemplated
                     these singular <hi rend="italics">spiracula</hi>,30 we mounted still higher,
                     and discovered a great number of plantations, in different parts of the forest.
                     The path continued to be very good and easy of ascent, surrounded on all sides
                     by very shady trees; but as soon as it approached the plantations, we lost it
                     by some means or other, and it seemed as if the natives had purposely contrived
                     it so, in order to prevent being surprised by their enemies. At last we reached
                     the summit of this hill, and went down the other side of it, in a narrow lane
                     between hedges of reeds, in sight of the sea, which washes the north-east coast
                     of the island. In a little time we got sight of the volcano between the trees,
                     and perceived that the walk which led to it, across several hills and vallies,
                     could not be less than two leagues long from our station. We saw its eruption
                     however, and took notice of immense masses of rock which it hurled upwards in
                     the smoke, and some of which were at least as large as the hull of our
                     long-boat. We were thinking to go on towards it, as we had hitherto met with no
                     bad accident, nor seen so much as a single native on our walk: however, our
                     voices must have alarmed some of them in the plantations along which we passed,
                     for we presently heard one or two blowing on great conchs, which, among many
                     savage nations, and particularly in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>, are
                     used to alarm the country. At this sound we instantly resolved to retreat, and
                     got safely down to the solfatarra which we had last discovered, unseen by any
                     of the natives. Here we met a few of them coming up the hill from the sea side,
                     who seemed greatly surprised to see us so far advanced into their recesses. We
                     told them that we went about to shoot birds, and desired them to bring us
                     something to drink. They went on without seeming to take much notice of our
                     request; but after we had botanized on the spot above a quarter of an hour, and
                     were just preparing to descend, we saw a whole family of men, women, and
                     children, coming down with abundance of sugar-canes and two or three coco-nuts.
                     We sat down, and after refreshing ourselves with the juices which these
                     vegetables contained, made our hospitable friends several presents, with which
                     they parted from us well contented. We went down with our acquisitions, and
                     came on the beach when the boats were going on board. The natives had now begun
                     to trade with yams, sugar-canes, coco-nuts, and bananas; and though they only
                     supplied us sparingly, yet we were highly pleased even with this small
                     beginning, hoping that in time we might obtain more considerable supplies. They
                     set no value on our iron-ware, but preferred <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>
                     cloth, small pieces of green nephritic stone from <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, mother of pearl shells, and, above all, pieces of
                     tortoise-shell. For these last they sold their arms; at first, parting only
                     with darts and arrows, but afterwards disposing also of their bows and
                     clubs.</p>

                  <p n="775">In the afternoon we landed, and walked along the seashore towards the
                     east point, where the natives had prevented our going on two days before. We
                     met some of them, who talked with us a few moments; but whilst they stood near
                     us, we took notice of a single man sitting behind a tree, with his bow bent and
                     the arrow pointed towards us. As soon as he perceived himself discovered, and a
                     musket pointed at him, he threw his arms into the bush and crept out to us, and
                     I believe he really had no bad intent, though such kinds of jests are not much
                     to be trusted. We reached the eastern point of the harbour, and there gathered
                     some beautiful red flowers, which had tempted us ever since we came to an
                     anchor; they belonged to a species of yamboos or <hi rend="italics">eugenia</hi>.31 As we were going to cross the point and to proceed along
                     the shore beyond it, fifteen or twenty natives crouded about us, and begged us
                     with the greatest earnestness to return. We were not much inclined to comply
                     with their demand, but they repeated their intreaties, and at last made signs
                     that we should be killed and eaten. The same gestures, though much less
                     intelligible, had been made to us two days before, but we had paid very little
                     attention to them, unwilling, upon such slight testimony, to suppose that they
                     had any idea of anthropophagy. However, at present we could no longer be
                     mistaken; for, having pretended to misunderstand them, and making them believe
                     that we thought they offered us some provisions, we began to move forward, and
                     expressed that we should be glad to eat something. They were very eager to
                     undeceive us, and showed, by signs, how they killed a man, cut his limbs
                     asunder, and separated the flesh from the bones. Lastly, they bit their own
                     arms, to express more clearly that they eat human flesh.32 We turned from the
                     point, but walked towards a hut which we observed about fifty yards from it,
                     where the ground began to rise. Here several of them, seeing us advance, took
                     up arms out of the hut, perhaps to force us to return. It was not our wish to
                     offend these people in their own country, and therefore we checked a spirit of
                     curiosity, which might have proved fatal to some of them, if they had obliged
                     us to defend our lives. The motives for pursuing our discoveries on this point
                     were not, however, of a trifling nature. Every morning, at day-break, we heard
                     a slow solemn song or dirge sung on this point, which lasted more than a
                     quarter of an hour. It seemed to be a religious act, and gave us great reason
                     to suspect that some place of worship was concealed in these groves, and the
                     constant endeavours of the natives to keep us from this place, greatly
                     confirmed us in this supposition.33 Having walked back a little way, we
                     resolved to get upon the flat hill in a place where the ascent was easy, and
                     where, being very near the point, we hoped to be able to make some
                     observations. When we had reached the top, which was about thirty-five or forty
                     feet perpendicular in height, we found ourselves in a spacious plantation,
                     chiefly consisting of innumerable banana-trees. We found it interspersed with
                     coco-palms and other tall and tufted trees, which entirely impeded the prospect
                     on all sides, and separated from other plantations by various fences of reeds,
                     very neatly made, much resembling those of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>
                     and <placeName>Namoka</placeName>. Here the natives began to repeat their
                     threats, and, if possible, made it more plain to us than before, that we should
                     be killed and eaten if we went on. We told them we only wished to shoot some
                     birds, but they did not seem to pay much attention to this excuse, and I know
                     not whether we should have made any discoveries this afternoon, if the little
                     friendly old man, <persName>Paw-yangom</persName>, had not luckily met us. We
                     expressed reciprocal joy on finding each other, and the old man immediately
                     conducted us along the edge of the hill towards its western extremity. Here we
                     saw great numbers of fig-trees, which the natives cultivate for the sake of the
                     fruit and the leaves. They are of two or three different kinds, and one sort,
                     in particular, bears figs of the common size, which are woolly, like peaches,
                     on the outside, and have a beautiful crimson pulp like pomegranates. They are
                     sweetish and juicy, but, upon the whole, rather insipid. The yamboos, (<hi rend="italics">eugenia</hi>), a cooling watery fruit, of the size of pears,
                     but with an agreeable tartness, likewise grew here in great abundance on large
                     trees; and we also observed some fine cabbage-palms, (<hi rend="italics">areca
                        oleracea</hi>). We advanced into a little thicket of various flowering
                     shrubs, and in a few minutes found ourselves on a fine open area not less than
                     an hundred yards square, on the skirts of which we saw three habitations of the
                     natives.34 Many lofty trees, richly furnished with foliage, made this recess
                     impenetrable to the eye from the outside. Among the rest we noticed an immense
                     wild fig-tree in one corner of the green, of which the stem was three yards in
                     diameter, and the branches spread at least forty yards on all sides in the most
                     picturesque manner. At the foot of this beautiful tree, which was still in full
                     vigour, we saw a small family seated round a fire, on which they roasted some
                     yams and bananas. They ran away into their huts at sight of us, but
                        <persName>Paw-yangom</persName> telling them they had nothing to fear, they
                     came out again; the women and girls, however, remained at a great distance, and
                     only peeped at us behind the bushes. We sat down with them, and they offered us
                     some of their provisions, with the same hospitality which we had experienced in
                     other islands. Their huts were, properly speaking, large sheds, of which the
                     roof reaches down to the very ground, and forms a ridge at top. They are open
                     at both ends, having only a small enclosure or railing of reeds and sticks
                     about eighteen inches high. The height of the ridge in the largest was nine or
                     ten feet, and the width on the floor between the roofs nearly the same. The
                     length, however, was considerable, and exceeded five and thirty feet. The
                     construction of these huts is very simple; two row of stakes are placed in the
                     ground, bending towards each other, and those which are opposite are tied
                     together. Over these they lay several mats, made of coco-nut leaves, which form
                     a thatch sufficient to defend them from the inclemencies of the air. We saw no
                     manner of utensils or furniture in these houses. The floor was covered with dry
                     grass, and a few mats of palm-leaves lay spread in different parts. We likewise
                     observed that all the inside was blackened by smoke, and found in every hut the
                     vestiges of several fire-places. In the middle of the area, we saw three tall
                     poles standing close together, which were made of the stems of coco-palms, and
                     connected together by means of transverse laths at the top. A vast number of
                     small sticks were fastened across them from the top to within nine or ten feet
                     of the bottom, and these were hung with old coco-nuts. As they make use of the
                     oil in the kernel, and employ the shell for bracelets, they probably keep them
                     in this place to season them. All the skirts of the flat hill, where we saw no
                     habitation, are, as I have already observed, well stocked with immense numbers
                     of wild coco-palms, and the ground underneath them is covered with nuts, of
                     which as it should seem they take the trouble to collect only an inconsiderable
                     quantity. Little bits of their cloth, which they wear as sashes or belts, were
                     suspended on the bushes which surrounded the green; and the presents which
                        <persName>Paw-yangom</persName> had received, among which was a laced hat,
                     were placed in the same manner like so many trophies. This was a convincing
                     proof to me of the general honesty of the people towards each other. At
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> they are already obliged to suspend their
                     goods to the roofs of their houses, in order to keep them out of the reach of
                     thieves; but here they are safe on every bush. It must be observed likewise, in
                     confirmation of this remark, that during our stay among the people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, we had not a single instance of their stealing
                     the least trifle from any one of our people.35 The natives having observed,
                     that though we looked into their huts, we did not attempt to do any hurt, to
                     displace or take any thing, soon became more reconciled to our appearance, and
                     the boys, from six to fourteen years, who had hitherto kept aloof, ventured to
                     come near, and suffered us to seize their hands. We distributed medals with
                     silk ribbons to them, and gave them handkerchiefs of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, which entirely conciliated their
                     affection, and banished reserve and the remains of apprehension. Distrust and
                     suspicion, are not yet known to the boy; he is frank and honest, and thinks
                     every body is like himself. We learnt all their names, and preserved them in
                     memory, and it can hardly be thought how much this little artifice assisted us
                     in gaining their good graces; they were overjoyed that we remembered them, and
                     came running as often as we called. Having spent some time with them, we got up
                     to return to the beach, and old <persName>Paw-yangom</persName>, who did not
                     care to go down, it being very near sun-set, gave directions to two or three
                     young men to shew us the nearest path. We took leave of him very heartily, and
                     made some addition to the presents he had already received. In our way we told
                     our conductors, pointing to the coco-palms near the beach, that we were dry,
                     and should be glad to taste some of them. Upon this they immediately led us
                     into another path, where a number of palms stood in the midst of the
                     plantation. From thence they took some nuts, and presented them to us, which we
                     interpreted as a mark of great good-nature; but when we tasted the liquor, we
                     found that they had done us a particular kindness or civility, it being
                     infinitely more delicious than that of the nuts near the beach. We now looked
                     at the trees, and finding them in very fine order, concluded that those below
                     were wild; but these, planted and brought to perfection by the care of the
                     inhabitants. It is well known that by means of cultivation the coco-palm, as
                     well as all other trees, is made fitter for domestic purposes; and the Javanese
                     have many varieties, of which the nuts are much improved<ref target="#edn226">
                        <note xml:id="edn226" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. III. p. 736. </note>
                     </ref>. The sort which is usual in the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>
                     is one of the best, and likewise owes its excellence to culture; nor do I
                     remember to have seen any variety there resembling the wild palms of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, which thrive even on the mountains. Having
                     been well refreshed through the benevolence of our friendly Indians, we
                     proceeded towards the beach, and in a few minutes rejoined our watering-party
                     there, by a path which led us directly down. Here we rewarded our conductors to
                     the best of our power, and embarking in a boat returned to the ship for the
                     ensuing night.</p>

                  <p n="776">The singular nature of the solfatarra on the western hill so much
                     attracted our attention, that we hastened thither again the next morning, and
                        <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> was of the party. The volcano continued to
                     thunder all the day, and threw up vast quantities of minute black ashes, which,
                     when more accurately examined, proved to be long needle-like and
                     semitransparent sherls. The whole country was strewed with these particles, and
                     they proved remarkably dangerous to our eyes in botanizing, as every leaf on
                     the island was entirely covered with them. It may however be remarked, that the
                     volcano and its productions seem to contribute greatly to that prodigious
                     luxuriance of vegetation which is so remarkable on this island. Many plants
                     here attain twice the height which they have in other countries; their leaves
                     are broader, their flowers larger, and more richly scented. The same
                     observation has been made in various volcanic countries. The soil of
                        <placeName>Vesuvius</placeName> and <placeName>Etna</placeName> is reckoned
                     the most fertile in <placeName>Italy</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Sicily</placeName>; and some of the best flavoured wines which
                        <placeName>Italy</placeName> produces are raised upon it. The volcanic
                     ground on the <placeName>Habichtswald</placeName>, in
                        <placeName>Hesse</placeName>, though situated in a high, cold, and barren
                     country, is surprisingly fertile, and covered with verdure. All kinds of
                     plants, indigenous and foreign, thrive with luxuriance, and make this beautiful
                     spot, on which the gardens of the landgrave are situated, the admiration of all
                     beholders. Nay, to confine ourselves to our own voyage, the <placeName>Society
                        Islands</placeName>, the <placeName>Marquesas</placeName>, and some of the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, where we found volcanic remains, as
                     well as <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName> and <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, where
                     we actually saw burning mountains, have a rich and fertile soil, in which
                     nature displays the magnificence of the vegetable kingdom. <placeName>Easter
                        Island</placeName> itself, wholly overturned by some volcanic eruption,
                     produces different vegetables and useful roots, without any other soil than
                     slags, cinders, and pumice-stones; though the burning heat of the sun, from
                     which there is no shelter, should seem sufficient to shrivel and destroy every
                     plant.</p>

                  <p n="777">We soon reached the first smoking place, but seeing the natives
                     somewhat higher, we did not stop, and walked up to them. They were the same who
                     had behaved so well to us the day before, and they now sent some of their
                     people up into the country, as soon as they saw us. <placeName>Mr.
                        Hodges</placeName> sketched some views,36 whilst we passed our time in
                     examining several plants, and suspended a thermometer, with Fahrenheit's scale,
                     on a tree in the shade. This thermometer stood at 78° on board the ship, at
                     half an hour past eight, which was the time of our departure. Having been
                     carried up close to the body, it has risen to 87°; but after hanging five
                     minutes, at a distance of twenty yards from the solfatarra, it remained at 80°.
                     We made a hole in the earth, deep enough to contain the thermometer in its
                     whole length, and suspending it from a stick into this hole, it rose in half a
                     minute to 170°. We left it there for the space of four minutes, and at the end
                     of that time it still marked the same degree. The instant it was taken out, it
                     fell to 160°, and in a few minutes gradually to 80° again. The steam which
                     issues from this place is consequently of the hottest. The natives, who
                     observed that we stirred in the solfatarra, desired us to leave it, telling us
                     it would take fire, and resemble the volcano, which they called <hi rend="italics">assoòr</hi>.37 They seemed to be extremely apprehensive of
                     some mischance, and were very uneasy as often as we made the least attempt to
                     disturb the sulphureous earth. We walked higher, and found several other spots
                     smoking, and of the same nature with that before described. By this time the
                     messengers, whom the people had sent off, came back with sugar-canes and
                     coco-nuts, and treated us as they had done the preceding morning. After this
                     refreshment we advanced higher up the hill, towards another in sight, from
                     whence we hoped to have a nearer view of the volcano; but upon our approaching
                     some plantations, the natives came out, and pointed out a path, which they
                     pretended led directly to the volcano or assoòr. We followed them for several
                     miles, through various windings, being continually surrounded by woods, which
                     hid the country from us on all sides. At last we found ourselves near the
                     sea-shore, from whence we had set out, and saw, or thought we saw, that the
                     inhabitants had been artful enough to lead us far from their dwellings, where
                     they dislike the presence of strangers. One of them was a very intelligent man,
                     and gave us the names of several islands in the neighbourhood, some in
                     directions where we had not been. As we knew that captain Cook had collected a
                     list of names of countries the day before, all which he afterwards found to be
                     districts on the <placeName>isle of Tanna</placeName>, we particularly enquired
                     of our Indian, whether the places which he enumerated were likewise situated on
                     this island; but he expressly said there was the sea (tàssee) between them; and
                     seeing us make circles on a paper, made signs that we were right.</p>

                  <p n="778">We spent the afternoon in an excursion round the flat hill to the
                     south-eastward. Here we found some new plants, and met with a few natives, who
                     offered to conduct us to the sea on the other side. However, observing that
                     they only endeavoured to lead us back to the watering place by another path, we
                     left them, and walked on alone through the plantations, many of which were
                     enclosed with fences of reed five feet high. However another native soon came
                     after us, and brought us to the beach on the other side of the island. We saw
                     the <placeName>isle of Anattom</placeName> again, and the native pointed a
                     little to the north of it, where he said another island was situated, which he
                     called <placeName>Eetònga</placeName>.38 This circumstance strengthens the
                     conjecture which I venture before, that there is some connection or intercourse
                     between <placeName>Tanna</placeName> and the <placeName>Friendly
                        Islands</placeName>. The name of <placeName>Eetònga</placeName> has a great
                     similarity with that of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, and some of the
                     natives of <placeName>Middleburgh Island</placeName> or
                        <placeName>Eaoowhe</placeName>, really call it
                        <placeName>Eetonga-Tabboo</placeName>. The latter part of the word, (Tabboo)
                     is affixed to other islands in the <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>; viz.
                        <placeName>Tabboò-amannoo</placeName> (<placeName>Saunders
                        Island</placeName>) and <placeName>Tabboo-aï<ref target="#edn227">
                           <note xml:id="edn227" anchored="true"> An island enumerated by the
                              Taheitians. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>.39 I will not pretend to say that the people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> design40 the island of
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> by their <placeName>Eetònga</placeName>;
                     but there is room to suppose that some other island of that name may be
                     situated towards the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName> which facilitates
                     the connection.41 When we had satisfied our curiosity we returned to the beach
                     at the bay, where our people had once more caught about two hundred and fifty
                     pounds weight of fish. This good fortune enabled the captain to give the whole
                     ship's company another fresh meal, which was consumed with the greatest
                     avidity. The bay contained great plenty of fish, and some of the petty
                     officers, who took the trouble of fishing, caught several albecores and
                     cavalhas42 of prodigious dimensions during night. Two fish of the same species
                     which had poisoned so many persons at <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> were
                     likewise taken one morning; but though I wished particularly to draw and
                     describe this species, in order to enable future navigators to be on their
                     guard, yet such was the greediness with which all our shipmates now seized on a
                     fresh meal, that in spite of the example, which was recent in all our memories,
                     the fish were cut up, salted, and peppered the moment they came out of the
                     water. Fortunately those who dined upon them did not feel any bad effects; a
                     farther proof that those which poisoned the officers had fed upon some noxious
                     vegetables, and by that means acquired a bad quality, which is not natural to
                     them. Our sailors relied on the experiment of the silver-spoon, which remained
                     perfectly untainted after being boiled with the fish; but it is at present well
                     known that this mark is extremely fallacious, and that only certain sorts of
                     poisons tinge that metal with an unusual colour. The natives still continued to
                     sell us some yams, but the trade was very far from being brisk.43
                     Tortoise-shell was the only commodity which they were desirous to obtain; but
                     as we had never expected a demand for it, it happened that there were only a
                     few small pieces in the ship, which had been accidentally purchased at
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>.44 Those who were in possession of this
                     valuable article were far from making proper use of it. Notwithstanding the
                     loathsomeness of salt meat, the sailor could not be brought to have a single
                     provident thought for the future, and exchanged his tortoise-shell for bows and
                     arrows, instead of laying up a stock of yams.</p>

                  <p n="779">Our short excursions into the country did not produce such great
                     discoveries in botany, as to confine us to the ship a whole day. We therefore
                     hastened ashore every morning, and endeavoured to collect materials for new
                     observation. <date>[Saturday 13.]</date>On the 13th, we walked up the flat hill
                     to the eastward, in order to visit our friends who lived with old
                        <placeName>Paw-yangom</placeName>. We arrived at the plantations unseen by
                     any of the natives, who now came down in very small numbers to the beach, their
                     curiosity being satisfied, and their distrust considerably lessened. We heard
                     one of the men at work cutting down a tree with his hatchet of stone, and
                     observed him through the bushes a long while. The tree was not so thick as a
                     man's thigh, and yet it was a very laborious undertaking, with such a tool as
                     this hatchet, to cut it in two. We went up to him, and he immediately left off
                     working, in order to talk to us. Several boys, who remembered us, came, calling
                     us by name, and brought us handfulls of figs and yamboos; and the women
                     likewise ventured to come and look at us. We examined the hatchet which the man
                     employed, and found it formed exactly like those which are made use of at the
                        <placeName>Friendly and Society Islands</placeName>. The blade was of a
                     black stone, which resembled the basaltes employed at those places, and he told
                     us it came from the <placeName>isle of Anattom</placeName>.45 He shewed us at
                     the same time another kind of hatchet, to which a broken shell was fastened
                     instead of a blade. This shell, which seemed to be a part of a mitre-shell
                        (<hi rend="italics">voluta mitra</hi>), he said was brought from the low
                     island <placeName>Immèr</placeName>, a few leagues to the northward of the bay.
                     It appeared that he was clearing a piece of ground, in order to plant it with
                     yams. He had already cut down a quantity of bushes, which lay in heaps, and
                     which he told us he would set on fire. We proceeded from hence towards the sea
                     shore on the other side, attended by a number of boys, and several young men.
                     We shot some birds in our way thither, and collected several new plants in the
                     plantations, which were more delightfully situated than any we had hitherto
                     seen. We found in them a variety of odoriferous plants, and some others, which
                     it seems were cultivated only for their elegant appearance, as is frequently
                     practised in gardens. We also took notice of the catappa-tree, of which the
                     nuts have a large delicious kernel, twice as big as an almond. It had shed its
                     leaves at present; but the nuts of the last season were still sticking on the
                     branches: the boys broke the hard shell between stones, presenting the kernel
                     to us on a clean fresh leaf. They were as assiduous at present in offering
                     their services as the Taheitians, and from less interested motives. If we had
                     collected a plant, of which we could find no other specimens, we only shewed it
                     them, and away they flew to gather it for us, in places where they knew it was
                     to be found. They were extremely fond of seeing us shoot, eagerly pointed out
                     birds on the summits of the coco-palms, and were overjoyed as often as we
                     killed them. Near every hut we saw some poultry, and several well fed hogs; and
                     here and there we observed rats running over the path, of the same sort which
                     is common in the other islands of the <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName>.
                     They particularly frequented the fields of sugar-cane, in which they make great
                     depredation. The natives had therefore dug several holes all round these
                     plantations, in which they catch these animals. When we came to the sea shore,
                     we walked to the northward along the beach a good way, in order to come to the
                     point, which the natives from the other side had repeatedly guarded from our
                     sight. On the shore we observed some small huts, which we took to be the abode
                     of fishermen, and from whence we concluded that we had been formerly mistaken,
                     in supposing them unacquainted with fishing; however, we saw no inhabitants, no
                     nets, nor fish in these huts, but only some darts, which might be used as
                     harpoons, or fish-gigs.46 Our attending Indians were greatly alarmed on seeing
                     us go on towards the point, and with much anxious intreaty prevailed on us to
                     give up all thoughts of going to examine that part of the island. They repeated
                     to us the signs of eating human flesh; and it is not to be doubted, but that
                     this practice still prevails among them.47 Those who contend, that
                     anthropophagy has the plea of the most cruel necessity, will hardly be able to
                     account for its existence in a nation living in a rich and fertile country,
                     having plenty of vegetable food, and likewise well provided with domestic
                     animals. The principle of revenge seems much more likely to have produced this
                     extraordinary custom, wherever it has been observed. Self-preservation is
                     doubtless the first law of nature, and the passions are subservient to its
                     purposes.48 In civilized communities we have tacitly consented to laws and
                     regulations, and delegated to certain individuals the power to redress our
                     wrongs; but among savages every man rights himself, and anger and revenge are
                     implanted in his breast, to repress the injuries and oppressions of others.
                     They are equally natural to him as the sentiments of general philanthropy; and
                     however different and opposite these two impulses of nature may seem, yet they
                     are springs, which by acting against each other, keep the whole system of human
                     society in constant motion, and prevent its total subversion or corruption. A
                     man wholly destitute of philanthropy is a monster, justly detested by all
                     mankind; but another, entirely incapable of anger, is a sheepish wretch, liable
                     to be insulted by every mean-spirited villain. A nation, or I may say a family,
                     (as savages seldom live in greater communities), which has been frequently
                     exposed to the attacks and insults of others, naturally contracts a degree of
                     hatred and inveteracy against its oppressors, which renders its revenge more
                     furious, unbounded, and, in our eyes, more cruel. If the enemy have used
                     treacherous arts, they create distrust, and in the end form a malevolent
                     disposition, which soon has recourse to the same baseness. At the least shadow
                     of an injury they are up in arms, and threaten to bear down all before them:
                     when they are actually provoked, they are ruled by no other law but that of the
                     strongest, and exterminate their foes with a degree of fury, which is capable
                     of the most horrid excesses<ref target="#edn228">
                        <note xml:id="edn228" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 173. </note>
                     </ref>. On the contrary, a nation, which has not experienced, or has long lost
                     the remembrance of mischievous enemies, and inveterate broils, which, by
                     applying to agriculture, has arrived to a degree of opulence, luxury, and
                     civilization, and acquired new and refined ideas of philanthropy, is
                     unaccustomed to the sudden overflowings of the bile, and slow to resent an
                        affront<ref target="#edn229">
                        <note xml:id="edn229" anchored="true"> Ibid. p. 321. </note>
                     </ref>. The natives of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> doubtless are engaged,
                     either in civil feuds with each other, or in frequent wars with the adjacent
                     islanders; their reserved and distrustful behaviour towards us at first, and
                     their custom of going constantly armed, seems clearly to prove the truth of
                     this assertion. We have therefore, I think, great room to believe, that the
                     violence of resentment has insensibly led them to the custom of eating human
                     flesh, which they practise according to their own confession. But we must still
                     remain utterly ignorant of the reasons which induced them to prohibit our
                     access towards the eastern point of the harbour.</p>

                  <p n="780">We turned back with our Indians to their great joy and satisfaction.
                     They led us on by a path which we had never trodden before, through a variety
                     of the richest plantations, kept in excellent order. The boys ran before us,
                     and gave us repeated marks of their skill in warlike exercises. They slung a
                     stone with great accuracy, and made use of a green reed, or stiff grass, in
                     lieu of a dart. They had attained to such perfection in throwing the latter,
                     that they never failed to hit their object, and knew to give the reed, which
                     every breath of air might turn out of its way, so much force and moment, that
                     it entered above an inch into the hardest wood. They poised it between the
                     lowest joint of the thumb, and the hand, without touching it with a single
                     finger. The youngest among them, five or six years old, already habituated
                     themselves to this exercise, and thus prepared one day, to wield their arms
                     with activity and effect.49 By various windings we came back to their
                     habitations, where the women were employed in dressing their dinner. They had
                     made a fire of a few sticks above ground, under the fig-tree, and broiled the
                     roots of yams and eddoes over it. As soon as we arrived they were startled, and
                     began to run away, but our conductors quieted them, and they continued their
                     operations. We sat down on the trunk of a tree which lay before one of the
                     houses, and endeavoured to talk with our new friends as well as we could,
                     whilst some of them were gone to fetch us some refreshments. We collected a
                     number of words of their language on this occasion, and had the pleasure to
                     satisfy their curiosity respecting our dress, arms, and various implements,
                     concerning which they had hitherto not ventured to ask a single question. The
                     inhabitants of adjacent plantations hearing of our arrival, crouded about us,
                     and seemed much pleased that they could converse amicably and familiarly with
                     us. As I happened to hum a song, many of them very eagerly intreated me to sing
                     to them, and though not one of us was properly acquainted with music, yet we
                     ventured to gratify their curiosity, and in fact, offered them a great variety
                     of different airs. Some German and English songs, especially of the more lively
                     kind, pleased them very much; but <persName>Dr. Sparrman's</persName> Swedish
                     tunes gained universal applause; from whence it appeared that their judgment of
                     music was not influenced by the same rules which regulate the taste of other
                     countries. When we had performed, we desired them in return to give us an
                     opportunity of admiring their talents, and one of them immediately began a very
                     simple tune; it was however harmonious, and, as far as we could judge, superior
                     to the music of all the nations in the tropical part of the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>, which we had hitherto heard. It ran through a much more
                     considerable compass of notes, than is employed at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, or even at
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>; and had a serious turn which
                     distinguished it very remarkably from the softer effeminate music of those
                     islands.50 The words seemed to be metrically arranged, and slowed very
                     currently from the tongue. When the first had finished his song, another began;
                     his tune was different as to the composition, but had the same serious style
                     which strongly marked the general turn of the people. They were indeed seldom
                     seen to laugh so heartily, and jest so facetiously, as the more polished
                     nations of the <placeName>Friendly and Society Islands</placeName>, who have
                     already learnt to set a great value on these enjoyments. Our friendly natives
                     likewise produced a musical instrument, which consisted of eight reeds, like
                     the syrinx of <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, with this difference, that
                     the reeds regularly decreased in size, and comprehended an octave, though the
                     single reeds were not perfectly in tune.51 We might perhaps have had an
                     opportunity of hearing them play on this instrument, had not the arrival of
                     some of their brethren with a present of coco-nuts, yams, sugar-canes, and
                     figs, obliged us in civility to transfer our attention from the musicians, to
                     those who brought us such a valuable gift. And here I cannot but lament, that
                     the ingenious and obliging friend,52 who communicated to me his remarks on the
                     music of the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, did
                     not likewise visit the <placeName>island of Tanna</placeName>, which in that
                     respect would doubtless have furnished him with some curious and useful
                     observations.</p>

                  <p n="781">If we have before observed the principle of revenge to have been active
                     among the natives of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, we must allow at the same
                     time, that benevolence, and a love of the fellow-creature, are not entirely
                     banished from their hearts. As there is the greatest reason to suppose, that
                     their life is frequently disturbed by the troubles of war, we cannot be
                     surprised at the distrust which they all expressed towards us, on the first
                     days of our acquaintance; but as soon as they were thoroughly convinced of our
                     harmless intentions, they naturally gave way to a contrary impulse, which
                     nothing but the necessity of self-preservation could have silenced so long.
                     They did not indeed trade with us, because their affluence is not yet equal to
                     that of the Taheitians; but hospitality does not consist in exchanging an
                     article of which you have more than a sufficiency, for another of which you
                     stand greatly in need.53</p>

                  <p n="782">Having made various presents to our friends, to the best of our
                     abilities, we returned down to the beach, and passed some time among the
                     natives who were there assembled. We observed more women among them this day,
                     than we had found before; most of them were married, and carried their children
                     in a mat-satchel on their backs. Some had baskets of a close texture, made of
                     pliant sticks, in which they brought a brood of young chickens, whilst others
                     had yamboos, and figs, which they presented to us. Among the rest, we saw one
                     who had a whole basket full of green oranges, though on all our excursions we
                     had never found a single orange-tree in the plantations. However, we were much
                     pleased to have seen this fruit at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, as well as at
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, there being great room to suppose, that
                     it is likewise a production of the intermediate islands. We were fortunate in
                     little acquisitions to-day; another woman gave us a pye or pudding, of which
                     the crust or dough was made of bananas, and eddoes; and the contents were the
                     leaves of the okra (<hi rend="italics">hibiscus esculentus</hi>) mixed up
                     with the kernel of a coco-nut. This pudding was exceedingly well-tasted, and
                     shewed that the women are well skilled in cookery. We also purchased several
                     pipes of eight reeds, which the natives brought for sale, and some bows,
                     arrows, and clubs; with all which we returned on board, rather later in the day
                     than usual.54</p>

                  <p n="783">After dinner we came on shore again, to be present at hauling the
                     seine; however, when we arrived on the beach, we separated, and <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName> went up the flat hill with me, to pay another visit to
                     the natives. Some of them met us about half way, and conducted us to the huts.
                     We were no sooner seated with the father of one of the families, a middle-aged
                     man, of a promising countenance, than our friends importuned us to sing to them
                     again. We readily complied with their request, and when they seemed to wonder
                     at the difference in our songs, we endeavoured to make them comprehend that we
                     were natives of different countries. Hearing this, they pointed at an elderly
                     thin man in the circle of our hearers, and telling us that he was a native of
                           <placeName>Irromanga<ref target="#edn230">
                           <note xml:id="edn230" anchored="true"> The last island from whence we
                              came to <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, desired him to sing to us. The man immediately stepped forward,
                     and began a song, in the course of which he made a variety of gesticulations,
                     not only to our entertainment, but to the great satisfaction of all the people
                     about him. His song was to the full as musical as that of the people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, but it seemed to be of a droll or humorous
                     nature, from his various ludicrous postures., and from the particular tone of
                     the whole. The language was utterly distinct from that of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, but not harsh or ill-suited to music. It
                     seemed likewise to have a certain metre, but very different from that slow and
                     serious one which we heard this morning. It appeared to us, when he had done
                     singing, that the people of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> spoke to him in his
                     own language, but that he was not acquainted with theirs. Whether he came as a
                     visitor, or had been taken prisoner, we could not determine; the natives
                     however told us upon this occasion, that their best clubs, made of casuarina
                     wood, came from <placeName>Irromanga</placeName>, so that it is probable they
                     have an amicable intercourse, or carry on a kind of trade with the inhabitants
                     of that island. We observed no remarkable characteristic difference in his
                     features from those of the people of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and his
                     custom of dressing, or rather ornamenting himself was the same. His hair was
                     woolly, short, and therefore not divided into little <hi rend="italics">queues</hi>. His temper was very chearful, and he appeared to be more
                     inclined to mirth than any of the people of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="784">Whilst the native of <placeName>Irromanga</placeName> was singing, the
                     women came out of their huts, and seated themselves in the little group which
                     surrounded us. They were in general of a low stature, compared with the men,
                     and wore shaggy petticoats, made of grasses and leaves, which lengthened
                     according to their age.55 Such as had borne children, and seemed to be about
                     thirty years old, had entirely lost all the feminine graces, and their
                     petticoats descended to the ancles. Some young girls, about fourteen years of
                     age, had very agreeable small features, and a smile which became more engaging,
                     in proportion as their fears wore off. Their whole form was slender, their arms
                     particularly delicate, but the bosom round and full, and the petticoats barely
                     reaching to the knee. Their hair curling upon their heads, without being cut,
                     or restrained into any particular form, had not a bad effect; and the green
                     plantane leaf which they generally wore, instead of covering it from the sight,
                     served rather to set off its black colour to advantage. They wore in their ears
                     tortoise-shell rings; but we observed that the number of ornaments considerably
                     encreased with age, the oldest and ugliest being loaded with necklaces,
                     ear-rings, nose-jewels, and bracelets. It appeared to me that the women were
                     not held in any esteem by the men, but obeyed upon the smallest sign; and
                     according to the accounts of our waterers (See above, p. 292.) many were seen
                     in the humiliating guise of drudges and beasts of burden. Perhaps the laborious
                     tasks which they are forced to perform, contribute to lessen their stature,
                     especially if they are disproportioned to their strength. It is the practice of
                     all uncivilized nations to deny their women the common privileges of human
                     beings, and to treat them as creatures inferior to themselves. The ideas of
                     finding happiness and comfort in the bosom of a companion, only arise with a
                     higher degree of culture.56 Where the mind is continually occupied with the
                     means of self-preservation, there can be but little refined sentiment in the
                     commerce of the sexes, and nothing but brutal enjoyment is known. Infirmity and
                     meekness, instead of finding a protector in the savage, are commonly insulted
                     and oppressed: the love of power is so natural to mankind, that they eagerly
                     seize every opportunity to exercise their superiority over those who are unable
                     to resist. The encrease of population necessarily brings on a greater degree of
                     polish; the cares of self-preservation are in great measure removed from the
                     individual to the community; affluence takes the place of want and indigence,
                     and the mind more unemployed, takes pleasure in the more refined enjoyment of
                     life; it gives a loose to a disposition for mirth and play, and learns to set a
                     value on the amiable qualities of the sex. The savage is not wholly incapable
                     of tenderness and affection; we trace them in the boy whilst he remains
                     thoughtless and free from care<ref target="#edn231">
                        <note xml:id="edn231" anchored="true"> We may remember, that the attachment
                           of the people at Tanna towards us, began with the rising generation.
                        </note>
                     </ref>; but as soon as he feels the urgent wants of his existence, every other
                     sentiment or instinct is forced to lie dormant. We observed an instance of
                     affection among the natives of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> this evening, which
                     strongly proves that the passions and innate qualities of human nature are much
                     the same in every climate. A little girl, about eight years old, of very
                     agreeable features, peeped at us between the heads of the people who were
                     seated on the ground. As soon as she found herself observed, she ran away to
                     hide herself in the hut. I beckoned the child to come back, and shewed her a
                     piece of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, but I could not prevail on her
                     to come and fetch it. Her father got up, and with some entreaty persuaded her
                     to come to me. I took hold of her hand, and gave her the cloth, and a number of
                     little ornaments. But I was overpaid by the pleasure of the father, the joy,
                     the fondness which sparkled in his eyes, and lighted up his whole
                     countenance.</p>

                  <p n="785">We staid among these people till sunset, and were entertained with
                     songs, and with a display of their skill. At our request they shot their arrows
                     into the air, and at a mark. They did not force the arrow to any extraordinary
                     height, but were very accurate marksmen at a short distance, as has been
                     already observed. With their clubs they parried the darts of their antagonist,
                     nearly in the same manner as I have described at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> (See p. 104). They told us that all the
                     clubs which have a lateral blade, like a fleam (See p. 280) are brought from
                     the low island, which they call <placeName>Immèr</placeName>; but we could not
                     learn whether they are manufactured there by the inhabitants, or whether the
                     island is uninhabited, and they only visit it occasionally, to gather shells
                     and to cut wood.57 Before we left the huts, the women had lighted several fires
                     in and about them, and began to dress their suppers. The natives all huddled
                     about these fires, and seemed to feel the evening air rather too cool for their
                     naked bodies. Several of them had a swelling in the upper eye-lid, which we
                     attributed in some measure to this practice of sitting in the smoak. It impeded
                     their sight so much, that they were obliged to lean their heads backwards, till
                     the eye was in a horizontal line with the object which they wished to behold.
                     This complaint was the more remarkable, as it extended to several little boys
                     five and six years old; from whence we suspected that it was perhaps propagated
                     from one generation to another.58</p>

                  <p n="786">When we arrived on the beach, almost all the natives had left it, and
                     in a short time we were left entirely to ourselves. To us, who were provided
                     with cloaths, the cool of the evening was delightful, and we rambled about the
                     deserted woods till the twilight had entirely disappeared. A prodigious number
                     of bats of a small size fluttered about us, coming out of every bush; but our
                     endeavours to shoot at them were entirely unsuccessful, for we could not see
                     them till they were close to us, and they were instantly out of sight again.
                     Our people having replaced their nets in the boats, after toiling a long time
                     with no other success than a dozen or two of fish, which all together might
                     weigh thirty pounds, we embarked likewise, and returned on board to rest from
                     our excursion.</p>

                  <p n="787">The next morning <persName>captain Cook</persName>, <persName>Mr.
                        Wales</persName>, <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, and several other
                     gentlemen, who were desirous to examine the volcano, set out with <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, my father, myself, and two men, and walked up the hill
                     on the west side of the bay. The weather was foggy, heavy, and sultry, but the
                     volcano was quiet. We soon reached the solfatara, where the hot steam rose
                     plentifully. The experiment to measure the degree of heat was repeated as on
                     the 12th, with this difference, that the thermometer was entirely buried in the
                     white earth where the vapour came up. After it had remained one minute in this
                     state, it rose to 210°, which is nearly the heat of boiling water, and remained
                     stationary there as long as we kept it in the hole, which was for the space of
                     five minutes. As soon as it was taken out, it fell instantly to 95°, and
                     gradually descended to 80°, where it had stood previous to the immersion. The
                     perpendicular height of the first solfatara, above the level of the sea, is
                     about 80 yards. We proceeded up the hill, and saw several extensive spots of
                     ground which had been cleared of wood in order to be cultivated. The wretched
                     tools of the natives, and the necessity of working very slowly with them, to
                     which we had been witnesses on the other hill, convinced us that this piece of
                     ground, which comprehended near two acres, must have required a great deal of
                     labour and a long space of time to clear. We passed by some dwellings, but did
                     not see a native stirring, till we came to another plantation in very good
                     order, where a single man was planting some yams. He was at first a little
                     startled at our appearance, but on asking him the way to the volcano, he
                     pointed out a path and returned to his former employment. We saw some hogs and
                     poultry in the neighbourhood of these houses, which were permitted to roam
                     about unconfined; but perhaps the fences which the natives form round some of
                     their plantations, may be intended to exclude the hogs. A little farther on we
                     were met by two natives, who came out of an adjacent garden of bananas, and
                     continued to walk with us. Coming to a place where the path divided, another
                     man appeared in that part which led into the country, and with his uplifted
                     dart prohibited our advancing that way. We told him we were desirous of going
                     to the volcano, and he presently pointed out the other path to us, and went
                     before to lead the way. As we advanced, we took notice that he continually
                     counted over our number; and having brought us to a clear part of the hill,
                     from whence a considerable space of country could be overlooked, we discovered
                     that he had misled us, and attempted to bring us off our road. We therefore
                     returned the same way we came, in spite of his signs, which he did not think
                     proper to enforce at present with any hostile gestures. However, seeing us
                     determined to proceed against his will, he blew with great force into his hand
                     several times, and was soon answered by the sounding of several conchs on
                     different parts of the hill. He now called out as loud as he could, and we
                     plainly heard him mention how many there were of us, probably desiring his
                     countrymen to assemble and oppose us. In the meanwhile we lost our road and
                     came into a fine secluded dell, surrounded by trees of prodigious height and
                     extent, where numbers of pigeons and parroquets fluttered about. We passed some
                     time in shooting here, whilst several of the natives still continued with us,
                     especially a couple of little boys, to whom we made some presents to gain their
                     goodwill. From hence we proceeded into a dark path, which had many various
                     windings, and at once opened upon a clear spot, surrounded by three or four
                     houses of the same dimensions as those where old
                        <persName>Paw-yangom</persName> dwelt. Here about a dozen men, well armed
                     with bows and arrows, clubs and darts, were sitting on their hams in a row, who
                     instantly started up at sight of us. We beckoned to them, and made signs that
                     we meant no harm, but they seemed not to trust us entirely. Some elderly men
                     among them seemed to have pacific intentions, but two or three young fellows
                     frowned, and made several motions with their arms, which, though not exactly
                     directed towards us, yet might have been construed into a provocation if we had
                     been very irascible. We concluded it was best to return, and desired them to
                     shew us the road to the sea. We could not have hit upon a better method of
                     quieting their distrust and apprehensions at once. Some of them went before us
                     down a narrow path, which was rather steep at first but became more easy
                     afterwards. Having descended about a quarter of a mile, they desired us to stop
                     and take some repose, and several of their brethren came to us loaded with
                     coco-nuts, benanas, and abundance of sugar-canes. The sultriness of the weather
                     made these refreshments very acceptable. We gave the Indians several presents
                     in return, and were well pleased that it was only from distrust, and not real
                     malevolence, that they had collected together to oppose our progress into the
                     country. After a walk of half an hour we returned to the beach from whence we
                     had set out, and happily ended an excursion which might, with a little more
                     rashness on our part, have proved fatal not only to the natives, but, in the
                     end, to ourselves. We were forced to give up all hopes of approaching the
                     volcano; but it is surely adviseable to abandon a pursuit where knowledge
                     cannot be obtained without bloodshed and injustice.</p>

                  <p n="788">During our walk, our people had hauled the seine with the flood-tide,
                     and obtained a small quantity of fish, among which we found a new species. The
                     pond of fresh water likewise furnished us with a new sort of fish, and the
                     seamen caught a number of mud eels in it. With these fish, and several new
                     plants collected on the hill, we returned on board, and passed the afternoon in
                     describing and drawing them.</p>

                  <p n="789">
                     <date>[Monday 15.]</date>We resumed our excursions into the country the next
                     morning. The trade for yams and for the weapons of the natives was still
                     carried on, but tortoise-shell was so scarce in the ship that we could make but
                     a small purchase of provisions. The mother of pearl fish-hooks of the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, which had the barb of
                     tortoise-shell, were in great request, and our seamen could sometimes obtain a
                     handful of arrows for one of them; whereas another fish-hook, equally good, but
                     with a mother of pearl barb, was not esteemed by the natives. We rambled about
                     among the woods on the plain, and shot several birds, of which this island has
                     a great variety. We also met with a number of East-Indian plants<ref target="#edn232">
                        <note xml:id="edn232" anchored="true"> The <hi rend="italics">sterculia
                              balanghas, sterculia fœtida, dioscorea oppositifolia,</hi>59<hi rend="italics"> ricinus mappa, acanthus ilicifolius, ischœmum muticum,
                              panicum dimidiatum, croton variegatum</hi>, and many others. </note>
                     </ref>which we had never observed in the more easterly islands. But the most
                     valuable acquisition, in our opinion, was a pigeon, of the sort which is common
                     at the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>. This bird had the sides of its
                     bill covered with a red substance, and, upon farther examination, had in its
                     mouth and craw two nutmegs, recently swallowed. They were still surrounded by a
                     scarlet coating, which was their mace, and had a bitter aromatic taste, but no
                     smell. The nutmeg itself was considerably more oblong than the true spice of
                     that name, but had likewise a very bitter and aromatic taste. We soon met with
                     a native, to whom we shewed the fruit, and desired him to point out the tree on
                     which it grew, offering him a mother of pearl shell for his trouble. He
                     conducted us about half a mile up into the country to a young tree, which, as
                     he affirmed, bore the nutmeg. We gathered its leaves, but saw no fruit, which
                     the native said had all been eaten by the pigeons. The name of the fruit, in
                     the language of the country, was <hi rend="italics">guannatèn</hi>.60 We
                     heard some muskets fired, which had an unusual report, and made us apprehensive
                     that some disturbance had happened, especially as we thought we understood
                     something to that purpose from the mouth of a native who passed by us coming
                     from the beach. We therefore hastened to the sea-side, but soon found that
                     every thing had been quiet there. However, shewing the leaves of the tree,
                     which we had received as belonging to the nutmeg-tree, all the natives on the
                     beach agreed in giving it a different name from that which our guide had told
                     us, though he endeavoured to cover his deceit by telling his countrymen to name
                     the leaf as he had done. We expressed strong marks of indignation at his
                     behaviour, and the other natives likewise rebuked him.</p>

                  <p n="790">In the afternoon <persName>captain Cook</persName>, with lieutenants
                        <persName>Cooper</persName> and <persName>Pickersgill</persName>,
                        <persName>Mr. Patton</persName>, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>,
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, my father, and myself, went upon the flat
                     hill to the eastward, and passed through the plantation to the sea-shore on the
                     other side. The <placeName>Isle of Anattom</placeName>, which the captain was
                     particularly desirous to see, was for the greatest part involved in haze. We
                     returned therefore leisurely through other gardens, shooting several birds,
                     till we came to the huts of our friendly Indians. The father of the child which
                     I mentioned on page 325, brought me a present of bananas, sugar-canes, and
                     coco-nuts, and thus confirmed us in the good opinion we had formed of his
                     sensibility. <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> made several sketches of views,
                     and particularly drew this little farm, with a group of natives of both sexes,
                     seated under the shady branches of the fig-tree. From thence he afterwards
                     composed an elegant picture, which is engraved for <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage, and gives a perfect idea of the
                        <placeName>island of Tanna</placeName>, and its inhabitants. Towards sun-set
                     we returned on board.</p>

                  <p n="791">
                     <date>[Tuesday 16.]</date>The next morning we came ashore again, and
                     immediately walked into the woods on the plain. We saw a great number of large
                     and beautiful parroquets, of black, red, and yellow plumage; but they kept on
                     the tops of the highest fig-trees, where they were wholly out of the reach of
                     small shot, guarded by the thick foliage. The size of these trees can scarcely
                     be imagined. Their roots grow above ground a considerable part of their length,
                     and converge together into one enormous stem about ten or twelve feet above the
                     surface. This stem which is frequently no less than three yards in diameter,
                     seems to consist of several trees grown together, which form every where sharp
                     longitudinal angles, projecting above three feet from the main body. Thus it
                     rises thirty or forty feet, before it divides into branches, which are above a
                     yard in diameter. These run up nearly to the same height without dividing, and
                     the summit of the tree is at least one hundred and fifty feet high. The place
                     where they were most frequent, was a marsh or swamp, occasioned by several
                     branches of the same pond, which we supplied our ship with fresh water. We were
                     not able to determine whether this pond is the remains of a river, coming from
                     the inland mountains, and losing itself in the volcanic sand and ashes which
                     cover the plain; or whether it is only the produce of the rains in the summer
                     months. It had innumerable quantities of musketoes which were very troublesome
                     to us, and was likewise the abode of rails and ducks, of which we could never
                     obtain any, though they appeared to be of a new species. We walked on through
                     the plain, keeping on its western part, and crossed several spots, which being
                     covered with grasses, resembled our meadows, but were much overun with
                     bind-weeds, and separated from each other by wild shrubberies which had the
                     effect of hedges. Now and then we met with great spots entirely covered with
                     tall reeds (<hi rend="italics">saccharum</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">spontaneum</hi>, Linn.) which we could hardly imagine to
                     have grown in such great quantities without cultivation. They supply the
                     natives with shafts for their arrows, and are made use of in basket-work,
                     fences, &amp;c. Beyond these fields we came into a forest, consisting of trees
                     of the same sort with those which cover the western shores of the bay. Here we
                     shot a species of wild dove hitherto unknown to naturalists, and saw some
                     parroquets, which were excessively shy, and may perhaps be scared by the
                     natives, whose orchards they infest. Advancing still farther we came into a
                     hollow road, which appeared to have been formed by a current of water, but was
                     perfectly dry at present, and served as a path to the natives. Its sides were
                     fringed in the most beautiful manner with shrubberies and palms; and in one
                     part a huge venerable fig-tree (<hi rend="italics">ficus religiosa</hi>,
                     Linn.) of the same sort to which the Cinghalese and natives of
                        <placeName>Malabar</placeName> pay a particular regard<ref target="#edn233">
                        <note xml:id="edn233" anchored="true"> They make sacrifices under its shade,
                           where some of their divinities are said to have been born. </note>
                     </ref>, struck its roots into both sides, and formed an astonishing vaulted
                     arch over the lane, which was at least five yards wide. A prodigious number of
                     birds, of a very diminutive size, fluttered about on its uppermost branches,
                     and picked off the fruit. We rested some time under its shade, whilst several
                     natives passed by, who did not express the least uneasiness at sight of us, and
                     with perfect unconcern heard our fowling-pieces fired at birds. Towards noon we
                     returned to the sea side, and though the weather was very hot, yet as we walked
                     almost continually in the shade, we felt no inconvenience. Before we came to
                     the watering-place, we passed through a shrubbery, where we found a native at
                     work cutting sticks, on which the climbing stalks of the yams (<hi rend="italics">dioscorea oppositifolia</hi>) are supported. Seeing that he
                     cut them very slowly with his hatchet, which had only a bit of shell in lieu of
                     a blade, we began to help him with an English hatchet, and in a few minutes cut
                     a much greater heap than he had done the whole day. The natives who were now
                     frequently passing, as the hour of their meals was at hand, stood still, and
                     expressed the greatest astonishment at the extreme utility of this tool, and
                     some were very desirous to possess it, by offering their bows and arrows for
                     it. We thought this was a favourable opportunity to encourage them to part with
                     their hogs, and told them we would exchange our hatchet for one of these
                     animals; but they were deaf to this proposal, and never sold us a single hog
                     during our stay. Having shewn them the wild nutmeg which we had found in the
                     pigeon's craw the day before, one of them produced three others, which were
                     wrapped in their mace, but could not point out the tree on which they grew.
                     They gave these nuts several different names, and told us they grew on a tree
                     called <hi rend="italics">neerash</hi>.61 On having recourse to our books,
                     we found that this species has some resemblance to the wild nutmeg of
                        <persName>Rumphius</persName>, and seems to be exactly the same with a sort
                     which is found in the <placeName>Philipinas</placeName>. The pigeon which feeds
                     upon it at <placeName>Tanna</placeName> is the same which
                        <persName>Rumphius</persName> describes as the disseminator of the true
                     nutmeg at the <placeName>Spice Islands</placeName>, and we had the honour of
                     presenting one alive to her majesty.</p>

                  <p n="792">We found a very old decrepit man sitting on the beach whom we had never
                     seen before. Many among the croud told us his name was
                        <persName>Yogàï</persName>, and that he was their <hi rend="italics">areekee</hi>.62 He was of a tall stature, but very lean and worn out; his
                     face was wrinkled, his head almost entirely bald, and what little hair remained
                     was perfectly grey. There was however an expression of kindness in his
                     features, which preserved the vestiges of a former manly beauty. Near him sat
                     another person, who might have passed for an old man, if he had not been in
                     company with the former. The rest of the people told us he was the son of
                        <persName>Yogàï</persName>, and named <persName>Yatta</persName>. He was
                     likewise a tall man, but well-proportioned, and remarkably well-featured for a
                     native of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. His hair was black, frizzled, and
                     almost woolly, but not dressed; and he had a very engaging, sensible look,
                     which expressed great good-nature towards the strangers. The natives acquainted
                     us that he was the <hi rend="italics">koù-vosh</hi>,63 which we suppose to
                     be a title perhaps equivalent to such expressions as " successor, heir, prince
                     of the blood," and the like, which are used in civilized countries. As their
                     colour was exactly the same with that of the common people, for they were both
                     of a very blackish or sooty complexion, we took particular care to examine
                     whether there was any difference between their ornaments and those of the rest
                     of the natives; but all the distinction which we could observe, consisted in
                     the kind of sash, or cloth, which they wore round their body as a belt. The
                     sashes of the common people were of an uniform cinnamon, or brownish-yellow
                     colour; but these two chiefs wore them painted with black lines, and chequered
                     with compartments of black and red: however, it is not improbable that even
                     this variation is merely accidental, and by no means considered as a mark of
                     royalty by the natives. Upon the whole, no deference was paid to these two
                     persons, if we except the title of chiefs, with which they were distinguished.
                     We never observed either of them to issue any command, and it is very probable
                     that their orders are only obeyed in time of war. At such a period, the people
                     readily give up their judgment to the experience of hoary age, and follow its
                     counsels instead of laws. They implicitly trust their lives and fortunes to the
                     conduct of a man, whose superior valour, and consummate art, they acknowledge
                     with one common voice. We made them some trifling presents, and gave them an
                     invitation to come on board, which they declined. We then embarked in one of
                     the boats, in order to go to dinner. Our people brought off a great quantity of
                     clubwood (<hi rend="italics">casuarina</hi>) from the shore, having cut down
                     a stately tree of this sort, which grew upon the edge of the flat hill.64 They
                     began to saw it the preceding afternoon; but <persName>Paw-yangom</persName>
                     came to <persName>captain Cook</persName> to complain, because this tree is
                     highly valued at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and so very scarce, that they
                     are obliged to go to <placeName>Irromanga</placeName>, where it grows more
                     plentifully, in order to supply themselves with clubs. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> immediately ordered the workmen to leave it; but afterwards
                     finding that it was cut so far that it could not grow any more, he gave the old
                     man a dog, a quantity of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, and several
                     other articles, for which he agreed that we should take the tree, and the
                     inhabitants in his neighbourhood seemed perfectly satisfied.
                        <persName>Paw-yangom</persName>, no doubt, was a man of some weight among
                     the people who dwelt on the flat hill, and it is not unlikely that his age
                     alone had entitled him to some deference. The government of the people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> seems to be in its infant state, and every
                     family is guided by the advice of the oldest men, their patriarchs, who never
                     exercise their authority in a severe or tyrannical manner.</p>

                  <p n="793">We returned into the woods again after dinner, but made an unsuccessful
                     excursion, having now searched the same spots almost every day since our
                     arrival on the island. The <date>[Wednesd. 17.]</date>next morning we renewed
                     our rambles, in hopes of meeting by accident with the nutmeg-tree. We passed
                     some time in a fine plantation of bananas close to the western corner of the
                     beach, where a number of parrots destroyed the fruit; but they were so
                     extremely shy, that we attempted in vain to come at them. Having taken a long
                     walk into the country, during which we frequently separated from each other to
                     a considerable distance, as we had now nothing to apprehend from the
                     inhabitants, we came back to the beach. We found the last boat ready to put
                     off, and returned to the ship, where we found the old <persName>chief
                        Yogaï</persName>, his son <persName>Yatta</persName>, and a well-made boy,
                     about fourteen years old, named <persName>Narrep</persName>, who appeared to be
                     nearly related to them. They were all seated on the floor of the cabin when we
                     came in, and <persName>captain Cook</persName> had given them a variety of
                     presents of all kinds. The old man had received them with the indifference
                     natural at his age; but his son, and above all the boy
                        <persName>Narrep</persName>, were extremely well pleased with the civilities
                     which had been shewn them. We invited them to dinner, and they ate of some
                     yams, but would not touch any other food, behaving nearly as
                        <persName>Fanòkko</persName>, our former visitor, had done (See p. 288). As
                     soon as we had dined, we embarked with them, and brought them to the beach,
                     where the other natives conversed with them, and seemed to be highly pleased
                     with the deference which we had paid to their chiefs. The number of natives on
                     the beach now rarely ever amounted to one hundred, including women and
                     children, who commonly sat down in several groups under the shade of the
                     bushes. From time to time they brought us a yam or a bunch of bananas, for
                     which they took <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth in exchange. The women
                     sometimes had baskets full of yamboo apples, (<hi rend="italics">eugenia</hi>,) which they sold for trifles, such as small bits of green
                     nephritic stone, black beads, and the like, and, as it seemed, more to shew
                     their good will, than from any value which they set upon those articles. The
                     civility of the natives was, upon the whole, very conspicuous towards us. If
                     they met us in a narrow path, they always stepped aside into the bushes and
                     grasses in order to make way for us. If they happened to know our names, they
                     pronounced them with a smile, which could be extremely well understood as a
                     salutation; or, if they had not seen us before, they commonly enquired our
                     names in order to know us again. On the beach we had for some days left off
                     stretching ropes to reserve a clear spot for our waterers and woodcutters; only
                     a centry was placed on each side, beyond whom they never ventured to advance,
                     unless they came fresh from the country, and were unacquainted with our
                     regulations. In short, the change which our little stay among them had wrought
                     in their opinion of us was already very remarkable, and continued every day to
                     turn more in our favour. <persName>Yogaï</persName> and
                        <persName>Yatta</persName>, with <persName>Narrep</persName> and several
                     other natives, left the beach very soon, and returned through the woods to
                     their own homes, which they pointed at as far distant from the bay. As soon as
                     they were gone, <persName>captain Cook</persName> went in his boat with us to
                     the people who loaded ballast under the western hill. Here we examined the
                     hot-springs which we had discovered on the 9th, having taken a thermometer for
                     that purpose, which had stood at 78° on board the ship, but being carried close
                     to the body had risen to 83°. When the bulb was plunged into the hot-spring the
                     mercury rose to 191° in the space of five minutes. We then took it out, and
                     enlarged the hole by clearing away the sand and stones, through which the water
                     oozed and ran into the sea. Having replaced the thermometer so that it was
                     immerged considerably above the the bulb, it rose again to 191°, and continued
                     there upwards of ten minutes longer. We threw some small shell-fish into the
                     spring, and they were boiled in two or three minutes. A piece of silver, after
                     lying in the water above half an hour, came out perfectly bright and
                     untarnished. Salt of tartar had no visible effect upon it; but still, as we
                     observed a kind of astringency in its taste, we filled a bottle with it, and
                     shut it up close, in order to make more accurate and complicated experiments
                     with it after our return<ref target="#edn234">
                        <note xml:id="edn234" anchored="true"> This bottle, full of the same water,
                           is still in my father's possession. </note>
                     </ref>. We observed a great number of little fishes, not above two inches long,
                     skipping about the wet rocks like lizards, to which they bore a great
                     resemblance. Their pectoral fins performed the functions of feet, and their
                     eyes were placed near the summit of the head, in order to guard them against
                     all their enemies when they are out of the water. These little amphibious
                     animals were indeed so cautious and so nimble at the same time, that it was
                     with great difficulty we caught them. They could leap the length of a yard with
                     great ease, and belonged to the genus of <hi rend="italics">blennies</hi>.
                     The same or a similar species of fish had been observed on the coast of
                        <placeName>New Holland</placeName> by <persName>captain Cook</persName> in
                     the Endeavour<ref target="#edn235">
                        <note xml:id="edn235" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. III. p. 529. </note>
                     </ref>. In one place we found them very active in destroying a brood of minute
                     young crickets, which appeared to have been washed out of a crevice in the
                     rock.</p>

                  <p n="794">
                     <date>[Thursday 18.]</date>
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> set out again with us the next morning, to
                     examine the hot springs at low water, the experiments of the preceding day
                     being made during flood-tide, about <time>half past four o'clock</time>. We
                     immersed the thermometer, which in the open air had stood at 78°, and the
                     quick-silver rose to 187°, after lying one minute and a half in the hot water.
                     This difference, from the former heat of 191°, was rather surprising,
                     especially as the springs issued so near the level of the sea, that some of
                     them were covered at high water, might therefore be expected to be cooled by
                     the mixture. We concluded that some other cause besides the tides influenced
                     the relative heat of these springs, and we were confirmed in this supposition
                     by examining another spring which came out upon the great beach to the south,
                     at its westermost corner. Here, at the foot of a perpendicular rock, forming
                     part of the mountain to the west, on which the solfataras were situated, the
                     hot water bubbles up out of the black sand, and runs into the sea, which
                     likewise covers it at the flood-tide. In the space of a minute the thermometer,
                     after being placed in this new spring, rose to 202 1/2°, and remained at this
                     degree several minutes. It should seem that these springs are heated by the
                     volcano, and run under ground till they find an issue. The fire of that
                     mountain in all probability is not always equally violent, and gradually cools
                     in the intervals between its eruptions. Different parts of it may likewise have
                     various degrees of heat, and the different springs, by passing over a longer or
                     shorter space, must lose more or less of their original heat. The solfataras on
                     the hill directly above these springs, are in my opinion connected with them;
                     and the steam which rises from thence, through subterraneous crevices, may be
                     part of the same water, ascending before it can be condensed into a continued
                     fluid, by the coolness of the ground over which it is carried. The volcano had
                     been quiet for two days past, and offered no new phӕnomena, from whence any of
                     these circumstances might have been better explained.</p>

                  <p n="795">We passed the day before and after noon, in the plain behind the
                     watering-place, and collected the flowers of an unknown sort of tree, which we
                     could obtain no other way, than by shooting at them. In the evening the seine
                     was hauled, and we caught about two hundred weight of fish, which afforded
                     another, though rather scanty fresh meal to the whole ship's company.
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> went up the flat hill with me, where we
                     passed about half an hour very agreeably with our friends the natives, who made
                     us a present of fruit at parting. We amused them as usual by singing to them,
                     and they became so familiar at last as to point out some girls to us, whom from
                     an excess of hospitality not uncommon with uncivilized nations, they offered to
                     their friends with gestures not in the least equivocal. The women, at the first
                     hint of the civility which the men intended to confer upon us, ran off to a
                     great distance seemingly much frightened, and shocked at their indelicacy. Our
                     Indians, and particularly the young people, were very desirous that we should
                     pursue the girls, whether only to frighten them or not, we could not ascertain.
                     However, they seemed to be very well pleased, that we did not take the hint;
                     and we parted from them, after distributing several presents, and especially
                     some mother of pearl hooks with tortoise-shell barbs.</p>

                  <p n="796">
                     <date>[Friday 19.]</date>The next morning we were ready for sailing, having
                     taken in a sufficient quantity of ballast, wood, and fresh-water; only the
                     wind, which blew right into the harbour, prevented our putting to sea. We went
                     on shore after breakfast, with the captain, and a party of people; and he
                     continued to trade with the natives, whilst we went into the country. We soon
                     separated, and each of us went by himself to a different part. I passed by a
                     number of natives in their way to the beach; but they all stepped out of the
                     path to make room for me, though I was without any companion, and not one of
                     them attempted with a look or gesture to offend me. I strolled alone several
                     miles in the back of the flat hill, or in the valley along its south-side, to a
                     part where I had never been before. The path which I followed was hid in the
                     thickest groves, from whence I could only now and then discern the extensive
                     plantations which covered the whole slope of the hill. Here I frequently saw
                     the natives employed in cutting down trees, or pruning them, or digging up the
                     ground with a branch of a tree, instead of a spade, or planting yams, and other
                     roots; and in one place, I heard a man singing at his work, nearly the same
                     tune which they used to sing to us on the hill. The prospect which I beheld was
                     so pleasing, that it did not fall much short of the beautiful scenes of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>. It had this advantage besides, that all the
                     country about me to a great distance, consisted of gentle elevations, and
                     spacious vallies, all which were capable of culture; whereas at
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> the mountains rose immediately craggy, wild,
                     and majestic from the plain, which has no where the breadth of two miles. The
                     plantations at <placeName>Tanna</placeName> consist, for the greatest part of
                     yams, bananas, eddoes, and sugar-canes, all which being very low<ref target="#edn236">
                        <note xml:id="edn236" anchored="true"> The tallest banana tree does not
                           exceed ten feet, and in general they are about six feet high. </note>
                     </ref>, permit the eye to take in a great extent of country. Single tufted
                     trees rise in different places, and amuse the beholder with a variety of
                     romantic forms. The whole summit of the level hill which bounds a part of the
                     horizon, apppears shaggy with little groves, where a number of lofty palms rise
                     over the rest of the trees.</p>

                  <p n="797">Those who are capable of being delighted with the beauties of nature,
                     which deck the globe for the gratification of man, may conceive the pleasure
                     which is derived from every little object, trifling in itself, but important in
                     the moment when the heart is expanded, and when a kind of blissful trance opens
                     a higher and purer sphere of enjoyment.65 Then we behold with rapture the dark
                     colour of lands fresh prepared for culture, the uniform verdure of meadows, the
                     various tints upon the foliage of different trees, and the infinite varieties
                     in the abundance, form, and size of the leaves. Here these varieties appeared
                     in all their perfection, and the different exposure of the trees to the sun
                     added to the magnificence of the view. Some reflected a thousand dancing beams,
                     whilst others formed a broad mass of shadow, in contrast with the surrounding
                     world of light. The numerous smokes which ascended from every grove on the
                     hill, revived the pleasing impressions of domestic life; nay my thoughts
                     naturally turned upon friendship and national felicity, when I beheld large
                     fields of plantanes all round me, which, loaded with golden clusters of fruit,
                     seemed to be justly chosen the emblems of peace and affluence. The cheerful
                     voice of the labouring husbandman resounded very opportunely to complete this
                     idea. The landscape to the westward was not less admirable than that of which I
                     have just now spoken. The rich plain was bounded on that side by a vast number
                     of fertile hills, covered with forests, interspersed with plantations, and
                     beyond them rose a ridge of high mountains, not inferior to those of the
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, though apparently of a much easier
                     slope. The solitary spot from whence I beheld this rural scene was likewise
                     favoured by nature. It was a delightful cluster of trees, which climbers and
                     bindweeds decked with odoriferous blossoms. The richness of the soil was here
                     extremely remarkable; for though I beheld many palms which the winds had thrown
                        down<ref target="#edn237">
                        <note xml:id="edn237" anchored="true"> The roots of the coco-palm are
                           naturally extremely short, and consist of innumerable fibres; but at
                              <placeName>Tanna</placeName> the soil, though rich and fertile, is so
                           extremely loose, that it does not require a great storm to overturn the
                           trees which grow in it. </note>
                     </ref>, yet most of them bent their summits upwards from the ground, and sent
                     forth new shoots with surprising luxuriance. Their branches were the resort of
                     various birds, adorned with the brightest colours, which now and then struck
                     the ear with an unexpected song not destitute of harmony. The serenity of the
                     air, and the coolness of the breeze, contributed to make my situation still
                     more agreeable. The mind at rest, and lulled by this train of pleasing ideas,
                     indulged a few fallacious reflections, which encreased its happiness at that
                     instant by representing mankind in a favourable light. We had now passed a
                     fortnight amidst a people who received us with the strongest symptoms of
                     distrust, and who prepared to repel every hostile act with vigour. Our cool
                     deliberate conduct, our moderation, and the constant uniformity in all our
                     proceedings, had conquered their jealous fears. They, who in all probability
                     had never dealt with such a set of inoffensive, peaceable, and yet not
                     despicable men; they who had been used to see in every stranger a base and
                     treacherous enemy, now learnt from us to think more nobly of their
                     fellow-creatures. Prudence, which accompanied the civilized voyagers, had no
                     sooner fascinated the instinct of the savages, watchful for their safety, than
                     another, no less powerful, awoke in their breast, and taught them to relish the
                     sweets of society. They shared the abundant produce of their soil with their
                     new acquaintance, being no longer apprehensive that they would take it by
                     force. They permitted us to visit them in their shady recesses, and we sat down
                     in their domestic circles with that harmony which befits the members of one
                     great family. In a few days they began to feel a pleasure in our conversation,
                     and a new disinterested sentiment, of more than earthly mould, even friendship,
                     filled their heart. This retrospect was honourable to human nature, as it made
                     us the benefactors of a numerous race. I fell from hence into a reverie on the
                     pre-eminence of our civilized society, from which I was roused by the sound of
                     approaching steps. I turned about and saw <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, to
                     whom I pointed out the prospect and communicated my ideas. We agreed in our
                     sentiments, and set out on our return, as the hour of noon was approaching. The
                     first native whom we met ran out of the way and hid himself in a bush. The next
                     was a woman at the entrance of a plantation, to whom we appeared so
                     unexpectedly, that she had no time to escape. She offered us a basket full of
                     yamboos, with a trembling hand, and with all the expressions of fear strongly
                     marked in her countenance. We were surprised at this behaviour, and giving her
                     some small trifles proceeded in our way. A number of men stood behind the
                     bushes in and about the plantation, and made signs to us to walk on by waving
                     their hands towards the beach. At last, when we stepped out of the wood, we
                     beheld two natives seated on the grass, holding one of their brethren dead in
                     their arms. They pointed to a wound in his side, which had been made by a
                     musket-ball, and with a most affecting look they told us " he is killed<ref target="#edn238">
                        <note xml:id="edn238" anchored="true"> In their language they express this
                           more strikingly by one word, <hi rend="italics">markom</hi>.66 </note>
                     </ref>." We looked hastily towards the station of our people, and seeing them
                     deserted by the natives, hurried to join them, and learn the particulars of
                     this shocking event. A sentinel had been posted as usual to keep the natives at
                     a distance from our party, but the sailors took the liberty of walking and
                     trading freely among them. A native, who in all likelihood had never been on
                     the beach before, came through the croud and began to walk across the space
                     which our people occupied. The sentry pushed him back among the rest of his
                     brethren, who were already accustomed to this injurious treatment, and
                     acquiesced in it. The new-comer, however, refused to be controuled on his own
                     island by a stranger; he prepared once more to cross the area, perhaps with no
                     other motive at present than that of asserting his liberty of walking where he
                     pleased. The sentry drove him back once more, with a rude thrust sufficient to
                     rouse a man much less irascible than a savage. He, to vindicate his right, laid
                     an arrow on his bow, which he aimed at the aggressor; but the soldier instantly
                     levelled his musket and shot him dead. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> landed
                     in the same moment; he saw the native fall, and many of his countrymen running
                     off to hide themselves from the cruel and treacherous people who had polluted
                     their island. He commanded the soldier to be loaded with irons, and sent him on
                     board the ship. He next endeavoured to appease the natives, and the natural
                     excellence of the human heart is such, that several, especially those who came
                     from the flat eastern hill, were persuaded to stay, and once more to trust
                     those who had so grievously violated the laws of hospitality. <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName> and myself were struck with the moderation of the
                     people, who had suffered us to pass by them unmolested, when they might easily
                     have taken a severe revenge for the murder of their countryman. We went on
                     board with <persName>captain Cook</persName>, greatly apprehensive for the
                     safety of my father, who still remained in the woods, accompanied by a single
                     sailor. We had, however, the satisfaction to see him safe about a quarter of an
                     hour after, among the party of marines who were left on the beach to protect
                     some of our water-casks. A boat was immediately sent off, which brought him on
                     board. He had met with the same good treatment from the natives as ourselves;
                     they had learnt to know our disposition, and seemed to be too good tempered to
                     confound the innocent with the guilty. Thus one dark and detestable action
                     effaced all the hopes with which I had flattered myself. The natives, instead
                     of looking upon us in a more favourable light than upon other strangers, had
                     reason to detest us much more, as we came to destroy under the specious mask of
                     friendship; and some amongst us lamented that instead of making amends at this
                     place for the many rash acts which we had perpetrated at almost every island in
                     our course, we had wantonly made it the scene of the greatest cruelty.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> resolved to punish the marine with the
                     utmost rigour for having transgressed his positive orders, according to which
                     the choleric emotions of the savage were to be repressed with gentleness, and
                     prudently suffered to cool. But the officer who commanded on shore, declared
                     that he had not delivered these orders to the sentry, but given him others
                     which imported, that the least threat was to be punished with immediate death.
                     The soldier was therefore immediately cleared, and the officer's right to
                     dispose of the lives of the natives remained uncontroverted.67</p>

                  <p n="798">We came on shore again after dinner, where our people hauled the seine,
                     and caught a few fish. The natives on the beach were very few in number, and
                     chiefly without arms; the murder of their countryman seemed to be forgotten, or
                     at least they seemed to have forgiven it in their hearts. My father, with
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> and myself, walked about on the plain, and
                     shot some birds. We only met a single native, who at sight of us immediately
                     struck into a different path, and walked very swiftly to escape us. We called
                     to him, and making all the friendly signs which we could invent, at last
                     prevailed on him to turn back. He approached us with distrust and apprehension
                     marked in every gesture; however, by making him some presents, his fears were
                     removed, mutual confidence took place, and we parted very good friends. It was
                     late in the evening when we left the shore with all our people.</p>

                  <p n="799">
                     <date>[Saturday 20.]</date>Early in the morning several canoes of the natives
                     got under sail, and went out of the harbour. Their form resembled that of the
                     canoes at the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, but with this
                     difference, that the workmanship was very inferior at
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. They have out-riggers to all their canoes, and
                     some may contain twenty people. Their sails were low triangular mats, of which
                     the broadest part is uppermost, and the sharp angle below. A long piece of
                     timber, hollowed out in the middle, forms the bottom of the canoe, and upon
                     this one or two planks are fixed, forming the two sides, by means of ropes of
                     the coco-nut fibres. These ropes are drawn through the round holes in several
                     knobs on the inside of the planks, by which means the latter are not pierced
                     with a single hole. Their oars are ill-shaped, and very clumsily made. It seems
                     the fabrick of a boat is so tedious an enterprize to people who are in a
                     continual state of warfare, that they cannot spend much time in polishing the
                     timbers, and giving them that perfection and elegance, which is conspicuous in
                     the manufactures of the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="800">The wind being favourable to our departure at present, we weighed the
                     anchor, and set sail, after a stay of sixteen days. The island of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> is situated in <geo select="lat">19° 30'
                        S.</geo> lat. and <geo select="lon">169° 38' E.</geo> long. and I believe
                     does not exceed twenty-four leagues in circuit. A clayey sort of stone, mixed
                     with pieces of chalk-stones, forms most of the rocks which we examined. It is
                     commonly of a brownish or yellowish colour, and lies in strata nearly
                     horizontal, about six inches thick. In a few places we observed a soft black
                     stone, composed of the ashes and sherls thrown up by the volcano, mixed with
                     clay, or with a sort of tripoly, which is called rotten-stone by some miners.
                     This substance sometimes forms alternate strata with the black stone. The same
                     volcanic sand, mixed with vegetable mold, forms the rich soil of this island,
                     on which, as I have already mentioned, all vegetables thrive with uncommon
                     luxuriance. The volcano which burns on the island, doubtless works a great
                     change in its mineral productions, and might perhaps have afforded some new
                     observations, if the jealousy of the natives had not continually prevented our
                     examining it. We found native sulphur in the white earth which covers the
                     solfataras, from whence the aqueous streams arise. The taste of this earth was
                     strongly aluminous, and it may perhaps be impregnated with particles of that
                     salt. We likewise met with a red bolus near these places, and observed a white
                     selenitic stone among the natives, which they wear as an ornament in the
                     cartilage between the nostrils. We found some specimens of strong lavas; but as
                     we could not come near the volcano, we never met with them in any quantity. The
                     hot springs have a kind of astringency in the taste, which gives us some reason
                     to suspect that they contain mineral particles; but we had no opportunity to
                     make experiments on board with the water which we brought from thence. The only
                     remark of any consequence, is a confirmation of a former well-known fact with
                     regard to volcanos, viz. that these burning mountains are not always the
                     highest in the whole ridge, as in <placeName>Peru</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Sicily</placeName>, but that they sometimes break out in a
                     secondary ridge, and are even of an inconsiderable height. As there are
                     instances in the <placeName>Açores</placeName>, and in the
                        <placeName>Archipelago</placeName>, that volcanic eruptions have forced
                     their way through the sea from the unfathomable bottom, this circumstance would
                     be of less consequence, if it had not disagreed with the opinion of the great
                     naturalist, <persName>M. de Buffon</persName>.68 He asserts, that the highest
                     mountains alone are the seat of volcanic fires, being desirous to remove these
                     fires as far from the centre of the earth as possible. Another observation
                     which we made seems to prove, that the eruptions commonly succeeded after
                     showers of rain; but so short a stay as ours is insufficient to give this
                     remark its necessary weight, though it coincides with the conjectures which
                     have hitherto been made concerning the causes of subterraneous fires. The
                     vegetable productions of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> are very rich and
                     various. The forests are filled with plants, of which a great number were new
                     to us, and some were species hitherto known only in the <placeName>East Indian
                        islands</placeName>. The cultivated grounds likewise contain a great variety
                     of plants which are unknown in the <placeName>Society</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, and no less than forty different
                     species are cultivated. Among the spontaneous plants, we ought particularly to
                     repeat the mention of the nutmeg, in defence of <persName>Quiros's</persName>
                     veracity, who asserts that he found it in <placeName>Tierra del Espiritù
                        Santo</placeName>, which doubtless belongs to this group of islands. Whether
                     oranges are cultivated, or grow wild, is uncertain, as we never met with a
                     single tree that bore them, but were obliged to content ourselves with the
                     fruit, which the women sometimes sold to us.</p>

                  <p n="801">The animal creation in <placeName>Tanna</placeName> is likewise
                     numerous and beautiful. Shells indeed are scarce upon the coast, and the
                     natives go in quest of them to other islands, setting some value also upon
                     large mother of pearl shells. Fish, on the contrary, are numerous, and in great
                     variety: with the seine and hook we caught mullet (<hi rend="italics">mullus</hi>), Brasilian pike, garfish, dolphins, cavalhas, parrot-fish,
                     sting-rays, toothless-rays, angel-fish, sharks, and sucking-fish, as well as
                     several species of mackrel and mullet (<hi rend="italics">mugil</hi>). The
                     woods contained a variety of birds, especially several sorts of pigeons,
                     parroquets, and fly-catchers. Among the latter we found a species which is
                     likewise to be met with in <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. The Ceylanese
                     owl, a species of creeper, a sort of duck, and a purple water-hen, were
                     likewise seen; but all in general were remarkably shy, which seems to indicate
                     their being pursued by the natives. The only tame fowls are the common cock and
                     hen; and the only domestic quadrupeds are hogs. Rats and bats, both which I
                     have already mentioned, form the only two wild species of quadrupeds.</p>

                  <p n="802">
                     <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, thus well supplied by nature, and blessed with
                     the mild influence of a tropical climate, contains a race of men in a much
                     inferior state of civilization, than the natives of the
                        <placeName>Friendly</placeName> and <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>,
                     who live nearly in the same parallel, but to the eastward. I am of opinion, we
                     rate the population of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> very high, when we suppose
                     it to amount to twenty thousand persons.69 The plantations seems to bear a
                     small proportion to the wild forests, wherever we walked about in the island,
                     only excepting the flat hill along the eastern shore of the bay, which is
                     indeed the richest spot I ever beheld in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>.
                     The excellence of the soil, instead of being an advantage to cultivation in its
                     infant state, is rather of disservice; as all kinds of wild trees, bushes and
                     weeds, are with the greatest difficulty rooted out, and propagate with
                     luxuriance, either from seeds, or from the roots. Cultivated vegetables, being
                     of a more weakly and delicate nature, are easily oppressed and suffocated by
                     the indigenous wild tribes, till repeated labours succeed at last to bring them
                     to a flourishing state. These two circumstances together strongly indicate,
                     that the nation which inhabits <placeName>Tanna</placeName> is not very
                     numerous, in proportion to the extent of that island. The people seem to live
                     dispersed in small villages, consisting of a few families; and their constant
                     custom of going armed is a certain sign that they formerly had, and probably
                     still have, wars with neighbouring islanders, or quarrels amongst themselves.
                     If I might venture a conjecture, founded upon the languages which we heard
                     spoken in the island, I should suppose that several tribes of different nations
                     have peopled the <placeName>island of Tanna</placeName>, and may have disputed
                     the possession of the ground with each other. Besides the common language of
                     the island,70 and besides a dialect of that of the Friendly Islands, we
                     collected some words of a third language, chiefly current among the inhabitants
                     of its western hills; and we particularly obtained the numerals of all the
                     three tongues, which are indeed totally distinct. In the common language of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, we met with two or three words, which have a
                     clear affinity with the language of <persName>Mallicollo</persName>, and about
                     the same number correspond with some words of the Malay; but in general they
                     are wholly unlike each other, and related to no other tongue that I know of.
                     There is a strong kind of aspiration, and a guttural sound, in many words at
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, which are, however, very sonorous and full of
                     vowels, and therefore easily pronounced.</p>

                  <p n="803">The small size of the islands in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>,
                     and the want of wild quadrupeds on them, have totally prevented their first
                     settlers from living by the chace, the usual occupation of savages.71 This
                     confined space likewise did not allow them to breed numerous herds of domestic
                     animals, and obliged them to have recourse to the cultivation of the soil for
                     their immediate subsistence, especially when they could not support themselves
                     by fishing. It has been the salutary consequence of this early application to
                     rural œconomy, to facilitate civilization. All the nations of tropical islands
                     in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> have fixed habitations, and it is only
                     the degree of elegance and convenience which distinguishes their different
                     progress in culture. The people of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> do not appear,
                     according to this standard, to be far advanced; their houses are mere sheds,
                     which barely cover them from the inclemency of the weather. Dress, another
                     distinguishing character of civilization, is as yet entirely unknown to them;
                     and in the place of cleanliness, which every where renders mankind agreeable to
                     each other, we observed divers sorts of paint and grease. They seem however to
                     be in great forwardness towards receiving a greater polish. Their food is much
                     varied by the arts of cookery which the women put in practice; they roast or
                     broil the yams and bananas; they stew the green leaves of a kind of fig, and of
                     the okra (<hi rend="italics">hibiscus esculentus</hi>), they bake puddings
                     made of a paste of bananas and eddoes, containing a mixture of coco-nut kernel
                     and leaves, and they likewise eat several sorts of ripe fruits, without any
                     preparation. Their poultry and hogs doubtless supply them at times with animal
                     food; and from time to time they catch fish and birds, which very probably are
                     reckoned dainties. If the taste for a variety of food becomes more general and
                     violent, agriculture, arts, and manufactures will be carried on with greater
                     spirit, as far as they are subservient to the pleasure of the palate, and one
                     refinement still must give birth to another. The heaviest task becomes light
                     and amusing, as soon as it is undertaken from our own inclination, and for the
                     gratification of our senses. The domestic life of the people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> is not wholly destitute of amusements; they are
                     at present indeed of a more serious turn than the civilized nations of the
                        <placeName>Friendly</placeName> and <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>,
                     and the more savage inhabitants of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>: but, on
                     the other hand, their music is in greater perfection than any in the South Sea;
                     and it cannot be disputed that a predilection for harmonious sounds implies
                     great sensibility, and must prepare the way for civilization. Agreeably to
                     their present situation, their government is in a very imperfect state. Every
                     village or family appears to be independent, and only to join with the rest
                     when their common interest is absolutely the same: for example, when their
                     country is threatened by the invasion of strangers. The aged or the strong
                     appear to have the greatest influence among the multitude, and a diversity of
                     ranks seems to be unknown. The separate interest of many small societies must
                     frequently clash, and of course involve them in feuds, which nourish, in some
                     measure, the principles of distrust and revenge. This difficulty can only be
                     remedied in process of time by the encrease of population, which will oblige
                     them to unite and to establish a government on a more permanent basis. The
                     manufacture of arms, upon which they now spend more time than on any other,
                     will then employ their more numerous leisure hours, and the same elegance which
                     is at present lavished on the arms at the <placeName>Friendly
                        Islands</placeName>, may likewise at <placeName>Tanna</placeName> become the
                     work of peace and mutual safety. How far their navigations to neighbouring
                     islands may hasten that period is uncertain; but commerce is doubtless of
                     infinite service to the encrease of civilization.</p>

                  <p n="804">We know nothing of their religion, except the solemn song which we
                     heard on the eastern point of the bay almost every morning, from whence we
                     suspect that they have a place of worship in the woods thereabouts. Their
                     solicitude to prevent our access to that part seems to strengthen this
                     conjecture; but in their general behaviour we did not take notice of the least
                     religious act, nor of any thing that could be construed into superstition. The
                     only circumstance which has some appearance of owing its origin to a religious
                     notion, is their taking up the presents which we gave them, in a leaf; but as
                     this was not a general custom, and almost entirely neglected as soon as we
                     became better acquainted, I cannot lay any stress upon it. Civilization
                     enlarges and unravels the idea of a Deity, which is not unknown to the savage,
                     though his more immediate wants prevent his giving attention to it. When the
                     exigencies of nature are supplied with less trouble, and in a shorter time, the
                     intellectual part expands and mounts to heaven to find some occupation. It
                     cannot be expected that during the little stay which we made at
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and in the confined situation to which the
                     distrust of the natives reduced us at first, we should have been able to
                     collect more certain and instructive observations, or an exact detail of the
                     whole extent of knowledge among the natives. Many articles, and especially all
                     the customs of domestic life, remain entirely unknown to us. All nations
                     practise certain ceremonies on solemn occasions, such as marriages, births, or
                     deaths; and however simple they may be at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, they
                     contribute to delineate the character of the people, of which our knowledge is
                     but too imperfect. The visits which we made to them on the hill, gave us great
                     room to believe them hospitable, and open to sentiments of universal
                     benevolence, as soon as the apprehensions for their safety were pacified. We
                     found them unjust to their women, but not so cruel and unnatural as the New
                     Zeelanders; on the contrary, it is rather to be supposed that they made gradual
                     advances towards that kind disposition which manifests itself in the good
                     treatment of the sex at the <placeName>Friendly</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>. Upon other occasions we had reason
                     to believe them brave and intrepid, and their conduct to us in the woods, after
                     the fatal murder of their countryman, was certainly generous. Their
                     conversation sometimes afforded us an opportunity of admiring their sagacity.
                     Their behaviour to us at our first arrival, and the custom of going constantly
                     armed, are evident marks of distrust; and the custom of eating human flesh,
                     which their signs plainly indicated, is a proof that their passions are
                     violent. The intercourse with Europeans might perhaps have proved a benefit to
                     them, and laid the ground-work for a future progress in civilization, if their
                     last rash action had not effaced those favourable impressions which the natives
                     had already conceived of them. European goods were in no repute; but as we left
                     a considerable number of nails and some hatchets among them, the durability of
                     the metal will soon teach them to hold it in high esteem, and it is not
                     improbable that the next ship which may happen to visit them, will find them
                     fond of iron-ware, and eager to barter provisions for it.</p>

                  <p n="805">Having once more put to sea, we ran to the eastward, in order to
                     examine the <placeName>island of Irronan</placeName>. Our stay at
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> had supplied us only with three or four meals
                     of fresh fish, and a small quantity of yams, which we treasured up to serve
                     upon emergencies. Some of our crew were at this time afflicted with fevers, and
                     received small portions of those roots, as substitutes to the unwholesome
                     biscuit and pickled beef.</p>

                  <p n="806">
                     <date>[Sunday 21.]</date>In the evening we came near the island of
                        <placeName>Irronan</placeName>, which was found to lie about twelve leagues
                     to the east of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and consisted of a high
                     table-hill. We passed the night in tacking, and the next morning ascertained
                     the situation of <placeName>Anattom</placeName> in <geo select="lat">20° 3'
                        s</geo>outh, and <geo select="lon">170° 5' e</geo>ast. Its size was inferior
                     to that of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, though we kept at such a distance that
                     we could not determine it with precision; but the height of its mountains was
                     to all appearance nearly the same. Observing no other islands to the southward
                     at present, we shaped our course along the south-west shore of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, which we saw to great advantage on that side,
                     all the hills sloping very gently from their summits and inland ridges.
                        <date>[Monday 22.]</date>As the wind was very fresh and wholly in our
                     favour, we were on the lee-side of Irromanga the next morning.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> was resolved to spend some time in
                     examining the western coasts of all this group of islands, and particulary not
                     to leave unexplored that to the north of <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>,
                     which had been seen by <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>. This group
                     being the westernmost hitherto known in the <placeName>South Pacific
                        Ocean</placeName>, <persName>captain Cook</persName> named the
                        <placeName>New Hebrides<ref target="#edn239">
                           <note xml:id="edn239" anchored="true"> The
                                 <placeName>Hebrides</placeName> are the westermost islands of
                                 <placeName>Great Britain</placeName>. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, having acquired the right of giving this new collective name by
                     discovering ten large islands, besides a number of smaller ones, all which had
                     never been seen before. The day was not yet spent when we had already passed
                     the southern shores of <placeName>Sandwich Island</placeName>. Its aspect on
                     that side was very beautiful, and its forests seemed more rich and copious than
                     we had formerly observed them to the northward. Four small islands, of
                     inconsiderable height but finely wooded with the most tufted trees, formed a
                     harbour, which had the appearance of being very convenient and safe.</p>

                  <p n="807">
                     <date>[Tuesday 23.]</date>Running on all night with great speed, we came in
                     sight of the <placeName>Isles of Apee</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Pa-oom</placeName>, and <placeName>Ambrrym</placeName> the next
                     morning, and stood along the south-west side of
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>. The peak of <placeName>Pa-oom</placeName>
                     seemed at this distance in one direction, to be entirely separate from the land
                     before it, but it may nevertheless be connected with it by low land.
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> surprised us again with the beauty and
                     shagginess of its forests, from whence vast numbers of smokes ascended,
                     sufficient to prove, that a great part of these forests was inhabited. A
                     spacious bay soon opened to our view, with a fine beach; and the land about it,
                     was to all appearance, extremely populous and fertile. Two small islands were
                     situated in this bay, and we feasted our eyes on the richness of luxuriance of
                     the prospect, where the brightest tints of verdure were profusely spread.</p>

                  <p n="808">A great number of natives were observed on the shore, and two canoes
                     put off about noon, paddling towards us, but soon giving over the chace, as we
                     sailed on too fast for them. Beyond the point which included the bay to the
                     north-west, the country lost something of its exuberant fertility, and was
                     interspersed with barren spots, though we saw smokes and habitations on the
                     highest ridges: and at night the mountains were illuminated in different
                     places, by several lines of fires, some of which appeared to extend at least
                     half a mile in length. We passed the north point of
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> during night, and were a good way advanced
                     in <persName>Bougainville's</persName> passage at day-break on the 24th.
                        <date>[Wednesd. 24.]</date>
                     <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> lies nearly N. N. W. and S. S. E. and the
                     north point is in <geo select="lat">15° 50' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">167°
                        23' E.</geo> The land which forms the north side of the passage, appeared
                     very extensive, high and mountainous, and a number of small islands lay along
                     its southern coast, which were of a very moderate height, and covered with the
                     finest forests. The continual fair weather which attended this part of our
                     nagivation, made all these beautiful landscapes appear to the greatest
                     advantage; and the pleasure of contemplating a great variety of rich sceneries,
                     made us some amends for the wretchedness of our diet, which at present
                     consisted of no other than the ship's provisions. </p>

                  <p n="809">The land which we now saw to the northward, seems to be the same, which
                     that great navigator, <persName>captain Quiros</persName>, called
                        <placeName>Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo</placeName>, and which at that
                     time, he supposed to make part of a continent. It is not improbable, that the
                     bay of <placeName>St. Philip</placeName> and <placeName>St. Jago</placeName>,
                     where he anchored, is situated within the small islands, which lie before that
                     great land. We really saw the appearance of a bay within them, but did not stop
                     to examine it, only giving the small islands the name of <placeName>Bartholemew
                        Isles</placeName>, from the day on which we saw them.</p>

                  <p n="810">We were now entertained once more with the sight of the
                        <placeName>island of Lepers</placeName>, and <placeName>Aurora</placeName>
                     which remained at a great distance to the east of us. Our course continued to
                     the north along the eastern shore of <placeName>Tierra del Espiritu
                        Santo</placeName>, where we still discovered new islands, which were not
                     seen by <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>. These small islands, as well
                     as the main land, had all a very fertile aspect, being covered with fine
                     forests, from whence numerous smokes ascended, which were so many signs of a
                     great population. Having passed the night, standing off and on, we came abreast
                     of the northernmost islands the next morning, <date>[Thursday 25.]</date>and
                     took notice that even the large land extended no further northward. Most of the
                     small islands were very long, narrow, and bluff at one end, but formed a low
                     flat point, running out to the northward. Their bluff part was commonly white
                     like a chalk-cliff, and it was remarkable that we did not observe any coco-nut
                     trees among their forests, which in some places consisted chiefly of club-wood.
                     As we passed by their northern extremity, they formed a very beautiful
                     prospect, gradually opening from each other, and clear of the main land.
                     Steering to the westward, we passed a projecting point on <placeName>Tierra del
                        Espiritù Santo</placeName>, and opened a most spacious bay of which the
                     entrance could be no less than five leagues wide. The depth of the bay was
                     proportioned to the width. The shores on each side seemed to run parallel for
                     the space of seven leagues, at the end of which the bay terminates. A fine
                     beach was seen all along the bottom of it, and the land from thence, for many
                     leagues within the country, consisted of hills of a very moderate height, and
                     extensive populous vallies, which had the appearance of fertility and plenty.
                     We stood over to its western shore where we saw many natives, especially
                     towards the evening; and likewise took notice of a canoe similar to those which
                     we had observed at <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>; it came off, but the
                     people in it kept it at a distance from the ship, and would not come near,
                     though we gave them ever so many invitations. The hill which formed the western
                     shore was rather steep, but however well inhabited, and covered with woods. A
                     low flat point ran out from it a mile or two into the bay, and formed a kind of
                     cove where we wished to come to an anchor, as we were becalmed, and the night
                     was coming on. We sounded several times, but found no bottom with one hundred
                     and thirty, and one hundred and forty fathom, about a mile from the shore. It
                     was soon perfectly dark, and as we only discerned the land by the lights which
                     glimmered through the woods in different places, our situation was beginning to
                     be alarming, and we thought of hoisting out our boats to tow us off, when a
                     faint breeze assisted us to get into the middle of the bay. Here we
                        <date>[Friday 26.]</date>waited for day-light, and then continued to stand
                     in to the southward with light airs, which vanished towards noon. Two boats
                     were sent after dinner to the beach which runs along the bottom of the bay, in
                     order to reconnoitre whether there was any port, or a river, which we could not
                     discern from on board, being still above a league and a half distant. In the
                     mean while three canoes put off from the shore, with triangular sails, and
                     approached the ship very fast. In each of them we observed four or five men, to
                     whom we called, as soon as we thought them within hearing. They were naked, and
                     of the same colour as the Mallicollese; but taller, and more stoutly formed;
                     their hair seemed to be woolly, and their beards frizzled. Some of them had a
                     bunch of feathers on the top of the head, and others wore a white shell tied on
                     the fore-head. On their arms they had bracelets of shell-work, exactly
                     resembling those which we had observed at <persName>Mallicollo</persName>, and
                     round their middle they wore a narrow belt, from whence a long slip of
                     matted-work, five inches broad, descended to the knees before and behind. One
                     of them had a sago-leaf rolled round his head, forming a kind of airy cap.
                     Their canoes were of indifferent workmanship like those of
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, and had out-riggers. We saw some spears
                     in them, which had two or three prongs, and were doubtless intended as
                     fish-gigs; but, besides these, the people had no arms whatsoever. They came so
                     near as to accept a present of medals, nails, <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>
                     cloth, and red baize; and we could observe them seizing upon the nails with
                     peculiar eagerness, which seems to indicate that they were not wholly
                     unacquainted with them: <persName>Quiros</persName> perhaps might leave some
                     iron-ware on this island, which has thus acquired a high value among the
                     natives. They fastened a branch of the pepper-plant to the same rope by which
                     we had lowered down the nails to them; but it appeared, that besides this
                     emblem of friendship, they had nothing else to give. We spoke a good deal to
                     them, and they answered from time to time, but neither party understood the
                     other. However, I thought of repeating the numerals in the dialect of the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, and had scarcely begun to count,
                     when they immediately interrupted me, and counted very exactly till ten. We now
                     pointed to the shore, and enquired for the name of the island. They repeated
                     the word <hi rend="italics">Fannoòa</hi>, which in the dialect just
                     mentioned signifies land; and called the level district, at the bottom of the
                     bay, <hi rend="italics">Tallaònee</hi>, at the same time giving several
                     names for different parts of the country on the sides; but we could not obtain
                     a general name of the island, which we therefore distinguished by that of
                        <placeName>Tierra del Espiritù Santo</placeName>, as
                        <persName>Quiros</persName> had done before. The languages of
                        <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName> and <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, of which
                     we repeated some words to these people, were either unknown to them, or we
                     pronounced them too improperly to be understood. When they saw our boats coming
                     back from the shore, they left us, it being then near sunset.
                        <persName>Lieutenant Pickersgill</persName>, who had the command of our
                     boats, reported that he found no soundings before he came within two or three
                     cable's lengths of the shore, but that the bottom was good at this distance. He
                     had found a fine river, which was deep enough for his boat at the entrance, and
                     had landed on one of the banks, whilst a great number of natives appeared in
                     the bushes on the opposite side. He made many signs of friendship, and called
                     and beckoned to them to come over the water; but none of them venturing to
                     accept the invitation, he re-embarked, and returned to the ship. The boats were
                     hoisted in, and a breeze springing up, assisted us to go gradually out of the
                     bay. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> gave this bay the name of <placeName>St.
                        Philip</placeName> and <placeName>St. Iago</placeName>; but it is still
                     somewhat doubtful, whether it is the same which <persName>Quiros</persName> has
                     distinguished by that name; at least the port of <placeName>Vera
                        Cruz</placeName>, which according to that Spanish navigator, has room for a
                     thousand ships, is not to be found in it<ref target="#edn240">
                        <note xml:id="edn240" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName> useful and judicious <hi rend="italics">Collection of Voyages</hi>, vol. I. p. 132, 142, and 169. </note>
                     </ref>. The eastern point of the entrance was named <placeName>cape
                        Quiros</placeName>, and lies in <geo select="lat" n="1">14° 55' S.</geo> and
                        <geo select="lon" n="1">167° 14' E.</geo> The western point extends somewhat
                     more to the northward, being in <geo select="lat" n="2">14° 38' S.</geo> and
                        <geo select="lon" n="2">166° 52' E.</geo> and was named <placeName>cape
                        Cumberland</placeName>. We were off this point early the next morning, and
                     advanced slowly out of the bay, along the northern coast of the island, being
                     much detained by calms and light airs. <persName>Quiros</persName> had great
                     reason to extol the beauty and fertility of this country; it is indeed to
                     appearance, one of the finest in the world. Its riches in vegetable productions
                     would doubtless have afforded the botanist an ample harvest of new plants, as
                     next to <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> it was the largest land we had
                     hitherto seen, and had the advantage of having never been examined by other
                     naturalists. But the study of nature was only made the secondary object in this
                     voyage, which, contrary to its original intent, was so contrived in the
                     execution, as to produce little more than a new track on the chart of the
                     southern hemisphere. We were therefore obliged to look upon those moments, as
                     peculiarly fortunate, when the urgent wants of the crew, and the interest of
                     the sciences, happened to coincide.</p>

                  <p n="811">A shark was caught in the afternoon, and afforded us a fresh meal. We
                     found a small insect, of the monoculus tribe, upon its back, which much
                     resembled the species in the gills of salmons. A scorpion was likewise
                     dislodged from a shelf, by the accidental removal of a book; some of these
                     creatures having been brought on board at the Society or Friendly Islands with
                     clusters of bananas, on which they sometimes sit. Towards night we made another
                     acquisition; it was a booby, of the sort which <persName>Linnӕus</persName>
                     calls <hi rend="italics">pelecanus fiber</hi>, which had roosted on the
                     main-yard.</p>

                  <p n="812">The day following a light air likewise retarded our progress, so that
                     we slowly examined the western coast of <placeName>Tierra del Espiritù
                        Santo</placeName>. A variety of fish were observed swimming along side; two
                     albecores were caught, and a single dolphin was struck with the harpoon, after
                     many unsuccessful attempts. The land on this side was high, and the mountains
                     very steep. Many fires were observed at night, probably in order to clear the
                     ground for plantations. <persName>Quiros</persName> having likewise seen fires
                     on this island, conjectured as we had done at first, that they were <hi rend="italics">feux de joye</hi>, and illuminations, on account of the
                     arrival of ships. A southerly breeze springing up, obliged us to tack off and
                     on, during the 30th and 31st, when we reached the S. W. point of the island,
                     which we named <placeName>Cape Lisburne</placeName>, and which is situated in
                        <geo select="lat">15° 35' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">167° E.</geo> We
                     stood once more into the passage between <placeName>Tierra del Espiritù
                        Santo</placeName> and <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, in order to
                     complete the circuit of the former. Here we saw the bay which <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> has expressed in his map, sheltered by some of the
                        <placeName>Bartholomew Islands</placeName>: it did not however appear to be
                     of such great extent as it is there represented. About six in the evening we
                     put about, and stood to the S. S. W. from the <placeName>New
                        Hebrides</placeName>, with a S. E. trade-wind. This group of islands, which
                     we had now cursorily examined in the space of forty-six days, seems to be well
                     worth the attention of future navigators, especially if they should ever be
                     sent out upon the liberal plan of making discoveries in all the various
                     branches of science. I will not pretend to say that they would find great
                     riches of silver and pearls, which Quiros was forced to speak of, in order to
                     engage an interested, avaricious court, to support his great and spirited
                     undertakings. These incitements are not necessary now a-days, when several
                     monarchs in <placeName>Europe</placeName> have convinced the world that they
                     can institute voyages of discovery, with no other view than the increase of
                     human knowledge, and the improvement of mankind. The sums which some of their
                     predecessors have lavished on parasites, have been found sufficient to make an
                     immense progress, nay, to produce a new and important revolution in the state
                     of the sciences, which have ever required a trifling expence to triumph over
                     the numberless obstacles that ignorance, envy, or superstitution opposed
                     against them. The natural productions of the <placeName>New
                        Hebrides</placeName>, exclusive of all kinds of artificial riches, are
                     therefore in my opinion considerable enough to engage the attention of future
                     voyagers. Their volcanoes, their vegetables, and their inhabitants, would
                     provide sufficient employment for a <persName>Ferber<ref target="#edn241">
                           <note xml:id="edn241" anchored="true">
                              <persName>Mr. Ferber</persName> is the first and only man of science
                              who has given us a truly scientifical and mineralogical account of
                              Vesuvius, which is worthy the attention of naturalists. See his <hi rend="italics">Letters</hi> to baron Born,
                                 <placeName>London</placeName>, 1776. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, a <persName>Solander</persName>, and many of the historians of
                     mankind.</p>

                  <p n="813">
                     <date>[1774. September.][Thursday 1.]</date>We proceeded at present to the
                     southward, and prepared to cross the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> in its
                     greatest breadth towards the extremity of <placeName>America</placeName>; and
                     though our crew were much weakened by living entirely upon salt meat in a hot
                     climate, yet it was intended not to touch at any place by the way; a project,
                     which if it had been put in execution, would doubtless have proved fatal to
                     some of them, whose bad constitution would not prompt them to support such an
                     abstinence. Fortunately, after standing on the same course for three days, we
                     fell in with a large land, which had never been visited by any European
                     navigator before, and which entirely altered the plan of our proceedings for
                     the remaining part of our stay in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>.</p>

               </div>
               <div n="3" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. III.<lb/>
                     Discovery of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>.-Account of our stay
                        there.-Range along the coast to our departure.-Discovery of
                           <placeName>Norfolk Island</placeName>.-Return to <placeName>New
                           Zeeland</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="814">
                     <date>[1774. September.][Sunday 4.]</date>ON the 4th of September, about seven
                     in the morning, a midshipman at the mast-head discovered land to the south,
                     extending a great way to the westward, and likewise to the south-eastward. It
                     appeared to be very high, and its distance from us was about eight leagues,
                     being seen through a haze, which made it appear farther off than it really was.
                     We had at this time little wind, though fair weather, and therefore advanced
                     slowly towards this new and unexpected coast. <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> takes notice of meeting with a part of the sea which
                     was entirely smooth<ref target="#edn242">
                        <note xml:id="edn242" anchored="true"> See his <hi rend="italics">Voyage</hi>, Eng. edition, p. 303. </note>
                     </ref>, and where several pieces of wood and fruits floated past his ship. This
                     was nearly to the N. W. of the land which we now discovered, and which, as an
                     able and intelligent navigator, he had conjectured to lie in that
                     direction.</p>

                  <p n="815">A calm, which happened after noon, entirely stopped our progress
                     towards the land, to which we were now near enough to discern several smokes,
                     sufficient to prove that it was inhabited. An officer at the mast-head likewise
                     entertained us with the hope of seeing another volcano, of which he said he had
                     seen the smoke bursting out. He must, however, have been deceived by
                     appearances, as we never afterwards saw any volcanic production upon this
                     island. The point which had first been seen, was named after the midshipman, <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Cape Colnett</hi>
                     </placeName>, and is situated in <geo select="lat">20° 30' s</geo>outh, and
                        <geo select="lon">165° 2' e</geo>ast. The whole land, appearing to be very
                     extensive, was honoured with the appellation of <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Nova</hi>
                     </placeName>
                     <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Caledonia</hi>
                     </placeName>. We could not wait the moment which should make us acquainted with
                     the inhabitants of this land, but formed several conjectures relative to them.
                     As we had found the inhabitants of the <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName> not
                     only entirely distinct from the New Zeelanders, but also different amongst
                     themselves, this new country offered itself to our eyes very opportunely in
                     order to account for the population of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>; but
                     the sequel convinced us that our ideas were very premature on this subject, and
                     that the history of the human species in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>
                     cannot yet be unravelled with any degree of precision.</p>

                  <p n="816">Before it was dark, three sailing canoes were seen coming off from the
                     shore. Perhaps the natives had taken our ship to be a canoe, and upon this
                     supposition had mistaken the distance, for soon after they put about and
                     returned. The land to the westward seemed to be divided into several islands,
                     and a-head of the ship we observed some breakers, which gave us reason to
                     conclude that a reef of coral surrounded the land at a considerable distance
                     from it.</p>

                  <p n="817">
                     <date>[Monday 5.]</date>Early the next morning, having a fine breeze, we stood
                     towards the shore, and soon discovered the reef, which ran parallel to the
                     coast, at the distance of three leagues. Within it we saw several canoes, each
                     provided with two large sails, one behind the other, and some natives on board
                     of them employed in fishing. A few other canoes put off from the shore some
                     time after, and, passing the reef, came towards the ship. We called to them as
                     soon as we could be heard, but they only looked at us, and soon returned the
                     way they came, making however no unfriendly gestures. Having observed an
                     entrance into the reef we hoisted two boats out, which we sent to sound. In a
                     little time they made the signal of having found a convenient and safe passage
                     into the smooth water within the reef, and we could observe them conversing
                     upon very amicable terms with a canoe full of the natives.1 Our ship stood into
                     this smooth bason through a gap in the reef, which was about a mile in breadth.
                     The natives laid some of their canoes on both sides of the passage, in a place
                     where it was narrow, and beckoned to us to keep in the middle between, which
                     gave us a very high opinion of their friendly and open disposition.2 Our boats
                     still continued to proceed a-head of us, sounding from time to time, and making
                     signals of the depth of water. The face of the country looked rather barren as
                     we approached, and was covered with a dry whitish grass. Trees were very
                     sparingly scattered on the mountains, and seemed all to have white stems, and
                     to resemble willows; nor was any kind of shrubberies or underwood to be seen.
                     Coming nearer, we discovered a small border of flat land at the foot of the
                     hills, covered with green and tufted trees and bushes, amongst which we saw now
                     and then a coco-nut palm and a banana-tree. Some houses likewise appeared,
                     which had the shape of conical or round bee-hives, with a hole for the
                     entrance, and exactly resembled the houses which are represented in
                        <persName>Le Maire's</persName> and <persName>Schouten's</persName> voyage,
                     and which they saw on <placeName>Cocos</placeName> and <placeName>Hoorne
                           Island<ref target="#edn243">
                           <note xml:id="edn243" anchored="true"> See the plates in <persName>Mr.
                                 Dalrymple's</persName>
                              <hi rend="italics">Collection of Voyages</hi>, vol. II. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="818">
                     <persName>Lieutenant Pickersgill</persName>, who had been out in the boat, now
                     returned on board, and told us that the people in the canoes had been extremely
                     friendly towards him, and shewed him one of their number whom they named <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Teà-booma</hi>
                     </persName>, and stiled their <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">arèekee</hi>
                     </persName>, or king.3 He gave him some medals and other trifles, and likewise
                     presented the other people in the canoe with the same; but they all delivered
                     what they received immediately into the hands of
                     <persName>Teà-booma</persName>. <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> brought on
                     board four or five fish, of which these good people had made him a present; but
                     unfortunately they were already putrid and unfit to be eaten.4</p>

                  <p n="819">We saw a small islet in the harbour, surrounded by reefs and shoals,
                     near which we let go our anchor in a good bottom. This was no sooner done than
                     we were surrounded by about twenty canoes, each of which was provided with
                     sails, and consisted of two hulls, connected by a platform of boards, on which
                     lay a heap of soil and ashes, where the natives kept a constant fire. Many of
                     these people immediately came on board, placing perfect confidence in us, and
                     one of them exchanged a yam for a small bit of red cloth. We sat down to
                     dinner, and a number of the natives were our spectators. They ate very heartily
                     of the yams which we had obtained at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, but refused
                     to touch our salt pork, or to drink a drop of wine. Unfortunately, yams were
                     such a rarity upon our table, that we could not conveniently part with them.
                     They admired every thing that had a red colour, particularly red cloth or
                     baize, but did not choose to give us any thing in exchange. Their language, if
                     we except the word areekee and one or two more, had no affinity with any one of
                     the various languages which we had heard in the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName> before. This was the more surprising to us, as we had found
                     one language, or at least dialects of it, in all the easterly islands of the
                     South Sea, as well as at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>.5 The people were
                     likewise different from any we had seen. They were very stout, tall, and in
                     general well proportioned; their features mild, their beards and hair black and
                     strongly frizzled, so as to be almost woolly in some individuals, and their
                     general colour swarthy or a dark chestnut brown, nearly the same with that of
                     the people of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="820">After dinner we proceeded to a flat point on the shore, where we saw a
                     great croud of the natives assembled. Two boats filled with people went on this
                     expedition, and among them were twelve marines, well armed. We landed without
                     the least opposition among the natives, some of whom were armed, but others
                     entirely defenceless. Our marines drew up in a line, whilst we went up and down
                     before them, and desired the natives to give us some room, to which they
                     readily consented. A handsome young man, who, according to Mr. Pickersgill, was
                     the <placeName>chief Teà-booma</placeName>, held a speech almost as soon as we
                     had stepped ashore. Previous to this, another of the natives pronounced some
                     words very loud, upon which a general silence immediately ensued. The speech
                     was very moderate, though serious, and from time to time delivered in a loud
                     tone. Sometimes the orator seemed to propose several questions, which were
                     always answered by some old men in the croud, and the whole lasted two or three
                     minutes. A little while after another chief arrived, who likewise held a speech
                     of the same nature to us; after which we mixed freely in the croud, and had an
                     opportunity of examining their arms and ornaments. Our principal enquiry, which
                     we expressed by signs, was whether they had any fresh water, upon which some
                     pointed to the west, but the greatest number to the eastward. Their persons
                     were tall and wholly of that character which I observed in those who came on
                     board at first. Many of them, however, had prodigious thick legs and arms,
                     which seemed to be affected by a kind of leprosy.6 They all went naked, only
                     tying a string round the middle, and another round the neck. A little piece of
                     brown cloth, made of the bark of a fig-tree, which is sometimes tucked up to
                     the belt, and sometimes pendulous, scarcely deserves the name of a covering; it
                     seems indeed not to be intended for a veil, any more than the contrivance of
                     the Mallicollese, and in the eyes of Europeans would rather be reckoned obscene
                     than decent. Every inhabitant of this island, therefore, like the natives of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> and <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>, was an
                     ambulant figure of the Roman Garden-God.7 The ideas of modesty are different in
                     every country, and change in different periods of time. Where all men go naked,
                     for instance on <placeName>New Holland<ref target="#edn244">
                           <note xml:id="edn244" anchored="true"> The natives of <placeName>New
                                 Holland</placeName>, of both sexes, go entirely naked, and have not
                              the least covering from motives of shame. See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. III. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, custom familiarizes them to each other's eyes, as much as if they
                     went wholly muffled up in garments. The fashionable dresses and suits of armour
                     which were worn in the fifteenth and sixteenth century at every European court,
                     would at present be looked upon as the most indecent that can possibly be
                     contrived; and yet who will dare to assert this, or defame the virtuous
                     characters of the invincible knights of that time, so famous for chastity,
                     honour, and gallantry,-because they wore breeches made after the fashions of
                     the times<ref target="#edn245">
                        <note xml:id="edn245" anchored="true"> In the arsenals at the Tower of
                              <placeName>London</placeName> may be seen many complete suits of
                           armour, which will better explain my meaning. </note>
                     </ref>?</p>

                  <p n="821">The same piece of cloth, which the natives of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName> have made so conspicuous, is sometimes of such a
                     length, that the extremity is fastened to the string round the neck. To this
                     string they also hang small round beads, of a pale green nephritic stone, which
                     is of the same species with that of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and nearly
                     related to that of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. On their heads many
                     among them wear black cylindrical caps, made of a very coarse matted work, and
                     entirely open at both ends, being only a kind of stiff cloth, formed by a
                     longitudinal seam into a cylinder, which has some resemblance to the cap of an
                     hussar.8 The chiefs had ornamented theirs with many small red plumes, and at
                     the top with long black cock's feathers. In their ears, of which the extremity
                     is stretched to a great length, and the whole cartilage cut out, as at
                        <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>, they hang great numbers of
                     tortoise-shell rings, as is customary at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and
                     sometimes place a scroll, made of a sugar-cane leaf, in the hole. Their arms
                     were clubs, spears and slings. The former were of different shapes and woods,
                     but in general rather short, seldom exceeding three feet in length, and
                     resembling that sort of the clubs of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, which is
                     made of the <hi rend="italics">casuarina</hi>. Their ends are cut out in
                     stars and various knobs, and some are formed almost like a scythe or pick-axe,
                     with a very short handle. Their spears are fifteen or twenty feet long, and
                     black, or blackened over; and the best of them, somewhat before the middle,
                     have a prominence, which is carved so as to bear a rude resemblance to a human
                     face. They throw them by the assistance of such short cords, knobbed at one end
                     and looped at the other, as are usual at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, and
                     which seamen call beckets. Those of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> were
                     of superior workmanship, and contained a quantity of red wool, which we should
                     have taken for the covering of a new sort of animal, if we had not formerly
                     seen the vampyre, or great Indian bat, from whence it was taken. Their last
                     weapons were slings, for bows and arrows were wholly unknown to them.9 These
                     slings consisted of a slender round cord, no thicker than a packthread, which
                     had a tassel at one end, and a loop at the other end and in the middle. The
                     stones which they used were oblong, and pointed at each end, being made of a
                     soft and unctuous soap-rock (<hi rend="italics">smectites</hi>), which could
                     easily be rubbed into that shape. These exactly fitted the loop in the middle
                     of the sling, and were kept in a wallet or pocket of coarse cloth, strongly
                     woven, of a kind of grass, which was tied on about the middle. Their shape
                     gives them a striking resemblance to the glandes <hi rend="italics">plumbeœ</hi> of the Romans<ref target="#edn246">
                        <note xml:id="edn246" anchored="true"> See <persName>Count
                              Caylus's</persName> Antiquit. III. 327. Tab. XCII. fig. 3. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="822">
                     <persName>Captain Cook</persName> being desirous to find a watering-place, soon
                     returned to the boats, and proceeded along shore to the eastward, where he saw
                     the whole coast lined with mangroves, growing in shallow water, and in swampy
                     or marshy ground. The natives on the beach, seeing us put off, dispersed
                     immediately, and went to their several homes. Two of them were seen walking
                     with great difficulty along the mangroves; for which reason we rowed towards
                     them, and took them into the boat. After we had proceeded near two miles, these
                     two men pointed out an entrance between the mangroves, which looked like a
                     river. As it was deep enough for our boats, we went in, and soon perceived,
                     that, after several turns and windings, it led to a few habitations. In our way
                     we saw some of the natives standing on the shore, and a flock of wild ducks
                     passing over our heads at the same time. I killed one of them, which one of our
                     friends in the boat was so desirous of possessing, that we readily made him a
                     present of it. He, as well as those on shore, expressed some admiration on
                     observing the effect of our fire-arms, but did not betray the smallest symptom
                     of fear. Before we reached their houses, we repeated the experiment, much to
                     their satisfaction, and were very well pleased to give them an idea of our
                     power, by such innocent means.10 At last, the river being not above twelve
                     yards11 wide, we landed on its banks, which were raised about two feet above
                     the water, it being near the flood tide. Here we found a few small families,
                     with their wives and children, who all came familiarly about us, without the
                     least marks of distrust or ill-will. The women were in general of a dark
                     chesnut, or sometimes mahogany brown colour; their stature was middle-sized,
                     some being rather tall, and their whole form very stout, and somewhat clumsy.
                     Their dress was the most disfiguring that can be imagined, and gave them a
                     thick squat shape. It was a short petticoat or fringe, consisting of filaments
                     or little cords about eight inches long, which were fastened to a very long
                     string, which they had tied several times round the waist. The filaments or
                     little ropes therefore lay above each other in several layers, forming a kind
                     of thick thatch all round the body, which did not cover above a third part of
                     the thigh. These filaments were sometimes dyed black; but frequently those on
                     the outside only were of that colour, whilst the rest had a dirty straw-colour.
                     They wore shells, ear-rings, and bits of nephritic stones, like the men; and
                     some had three black lines longitudinally from the under-lip to the chin, which
                     had been punctured by the same methods practised at the
                        <placeName>Friendly</placeName> and <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>.
                     Their features were coarse, but expressed great good-nature. The forehead in
                     general was high, the nose broad and flat at the root, and the eyes rather
                     small. Their cheek-bones were very prominent, and the cheeks commonly plump.
                     Their hair was frizzled, and often cut short, as among the natives of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.
                     The huts, which stood about ten yards from the banks of the river, on a little
                     rising, were of a conical shape, about ten feet high, but not pointed at the
                     top. Their innermost skeleton consisted of several poles placed nearly upright,
                     and connected together by twisted sticks like hurdles. Over these we found a
                     covering of matts from top to bottom, and upon that a thick and well-contrived
                     thatch of straw. What little light there is in these houses, comes in through
                     the entrance, which is a hole about four feet high; so that the inhabitants
                     must stoop to go in or out. We found them full of smoke, and saw a heap of
                     ashes in the entrance; and concluded that they were obliged to light fires, in
                     order to drive away the mosquitoes, which must infest the swamps in the
                     neighbourhood; though this day being rather cool, we saw but few. The huts were
                     surrounded by a small number of coco-palms, destitute of fruit, some
                     sugar-canes, bananas, and eddoes, which the natives had supplied with water by
                     several little trenches. Some of the eddoes were actually set under water, in
                     the same manner as is customary throughout the <placeName>South Sea
                        Islands</placeName>.12 The whole plantation, however, had a very scanty
                     appearance, and seemed to be insufficient to afford nourishment to the
                     inhabitants throughout the year. We entirely missed that variety of fruits,
                     which we had hitherto met with in the tropical islands, and naturally
                     recollected the poverty of the inhabitants of <placeName>Easter
                        Island</placeName>, above whom it appeared, that the people before us
                     enjoyed but few advantages. A native named <persName>Heebai</persName>, seemed
                     to be the principal man among the few families which were here assembled; we
                     made him some presents, and walked about on the banks of the river towards the
                     mangroves, meeting with a new plant by the way. Towards the hills, of which the
                     first risings were at the distance of about two miles, the country looked
                     extremely dreary; here and there indeed, we saw a few trees, and small
                     cultivated spots, but they appeared to be lost on the great extent of barren
                     and unprofitable country, which resembled our moors more than anything else.13
                     Upon a large heap of embers and ashes before the huts, lay a round earthen pot,
                     which could hold four or five gallons. It was very clumsily shaped, had a large
                     belly, and consisted of a reddish substance, which was totally covered with
                     soot both without and within. After a short stay with the good people of this
                     spot, whose provisions were doubtless so scanty, that they could not spare any
                     for us, we reimbarked in our boats. The natives came along side early the next
                     morning in their canoes. They had fires upon every canoe, having laid some
                     stones and ashes on the platform, to prevent any accident. There were some
                     women in the boats, who did not come into the ship, but many of the men came in
                     without invitation, and began to sell their arms for pieces of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth.</p>

                  <p n="823">The boats were sent ashore again in search of a nearer watering-place.
                     We landed at the same point, where we had made our first landing the day
                     before. Here we met with a few inhabitants, who on our making enquiry for
                     fresh-water, pointed to the westward where we had not yet been. We walked along
                     the beach, which was here sandy, and bounded by a fine wild shrubbery: we soon
                     came to a hut, from whence a number of plantations extended to the back of the
                     beach and wild wood. We rambled into the country, and came to a canal that
                     watered this plantation, but of which the water was very brackish. From hence
                     however, we ran immediately to an eminence near us, where the nature of the
                     country appeared evidently changed. The plain was covered with a thin stratum
                     of vegetable soil, which being very poor was manured in the plantations with
                     broken shells and corals. The eminence on the contrary was a rocky ground,
                     consisting of large pieces of quartz and glimmer (<hi rend="italics">mica</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn247">
                        <note xml:id="edn247" anchored="true"> This kind of rock is called <hi rend="italics">gestell-stein</hi> by the German mineralogists. See
                              <persName>Mr. Ferber's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Letters to Baron Born</hi>, English edition, 8vo.
                           1776, p. 327. This name is particularly applied to that kind of rock,
                           where the mica or glimmer lies in frequent and horizontal strata. </note>
                     </ref>). Here grew a quantity of dry grasses, about two or three feet high,
                     very thin in most places; and at the distance of fifteen or twenty yards
                     asunder, we saw large trees black at the root, but with a bark perfectly white
                     and loose, and having narrow long leaves like our willows. They were of the
                     sort which <persName>Linné</persName> calls <hi rend="italics">melaleuca
                        leucadendra</hi>, and <persName>Rumphius</persName>
                     <hi rend="italics">arbor alba</hi>, who says that the natives of the
                     Moluccas make the oil of <hi rend="italics">cayputi</hi>,14 from the leaves,
                     which are indeed extremely fragrant and aromatic<ref target="#edn248">
                        <note xml:id="edn248" anchored="true">
                           <hi rend="italics"> Herb. amboin</hi>. vol. II. T. 16, 17. p. 72.
                        </note>
                     </ref>. Not the least shrub was to be seen on this eminence, and the trees did
                     not intercept the distant prospect. We discerned from hence a line of tufted
                     trees and shrubberies, which extended from the sea-side towards the mountains,
                     and immediately concluded that they stood on the banks of a rivulet. We walked
                     past a few other plantations, and soon found the rivulet we sought, which about
                     two hundred yards from the sea, was unmixed with salt-water, so that we could
                     fill our casks without much trouble. Here we saw the <persName>chief
                        Teabooma</persName>, and gave him several medals and other trifles, for
                     which he made us a present of a sling, and some clubs. The banks of the river
                     were lined with mangroves, beyond which a few other sorts of plants and trees
                     occupied a space of fifteen or twenty feet, which had a layer of vegetable
                     mould, charged with nutritive moisture, and covered with a green bed of
                     grasses, where the eye gladly reposed itself after viewing a parched prospect.
                     The border of shrubberies and wild trees which lined the sea shore, was the
                     most advantageous to us as naturalists; here we met with some unknown plants,
                     and saw a great variety of birds of different classes, which were for the
                     greatest part entirely new. But the character of the inhabitants, and their
                     friendly, inoffensive behaviour towards us, gave us greater pleasure than all
                     the rest. We found their numbers very inconsiderable, and their habitations
                     very thinly scattered.15 They commonly had built two or three houses near each
                     other, under a group of very lofty fig-trees, of which the branches were so
                     closely entwined, that the sky was scarcely visible through the foliage, and
                     the huts were involved in a perpetual cool shade. They had another advantage
                     besides, from this pleasant situation; for numbers of birds continually
                     twittered in the tufted tops of the tree, and hid themselves from the scorching
                     beams of the sun. The wild note of some species of creepers was very agreeable,
                     and conveyed a sensible pleasure to every one who delighted in this kind of
                     artless harmony. The inhabitants themselves were commonly seated at the foot of
                     these trees, which had this remarkable quality, that they shot long roots from
                     the upper part of the stem, perfectly round, as if they had been made by a
                     turner, into the ground, ten, fifteen, and twenty feet from the tree, and
                     formed a most exact strait line, being extremely elastic, and as tense as a
                     bow-string prepared for action. The bark of these trees seems to be the
                     substance of which they make those little bits of cloth, so remarkable in their
                     dress. They communicated a number of words of their language to us, which had
                     no affinity with those we had learnt before in other islands; a circumstance
                     sufficient to discourage the greatest and most indefatigable genealogist. Their
                     temper seemed to be as indolent, as it was good-natured and harmless. It was
                     very rare indeed, that any one of them chose to follow us on our rambles; if we
                     passed by their huts, and talked to them, they answered us, but if we went on
                     without addressing them, they took no farther notice of us. The women were
                     rather more curious, and sometimes strayed in the bushes to observe us, but
                     would not venture to come near, except in the presence of the men.</p>

                  <p n="824">We shot a number of birds, without giving the least offence by this
                     amusement to any of the natives; on the contrary, when we came near their
                     houses, the young men readily pointed them out to us. It appeared that they had
                     very little occupation at this time of the year, having now prepared the
                     ground, and planted roots and bananas, of which they expected a new crop the
                     ensuing summer. Perhaps from the same reason, they were at present more unable
                     than at any other time, to part with their provisions to us, though their
                     insuspicious, open disposition, gave us the greatest room to believe that they
                     were not strangers to the principles of hospitality, which render all the
                     natives of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> so amiable in the eyes of their
                     visitors.</p>

                  <p n="825">We walked about till noon, when the boats returned on board with a load
                     of water, having only left a small party with the casks; a precaution, which
                     the honesty of the natives perhaps did not render necessary. <persName>Mr.
                        Wales</persName>, our astronomer, had in the meanwhile fixed some
                     instruments on the little sandy islet, in order to observe an eclipse of the
                     sun, which happened this day. The captain joined him there, and from this, as
                     well as subsequent observations, they deduced the situation of this little
                     island to be in <geo select="lat">20° 15' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">164°
                        40' E.</geo>16</p>

                  <p n="826">In the evening we went on shore with <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     to the watering-place. The cayputi-trees (<hi rend="italics">melaleuca</hi>), of which we found several in flower, had a loose bark,
                     which in many places burst off from the wood, and concealed within it beetles,
                     ants, spiders, lizards, and scorpions. We thought we observed quails among the
                     tall dry grasses this day, but could not be certain; we walked about till
                     sunset, on the hillocks nearest to our watering-place, where we saw but very
                     few natives, who sold some of their arms to us. We endeavoured to represent to
                     them that we stood in need of provisions, but they lent a deaf ear to every
                     hint of that kind, since it was plain they had barely enough for their own
                     subsistence. The soil of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> is indeed very
                     unfit for agriculture, and poorly rewards the labours which the natives bestow
                     upon it.</p>

                  <p n="827">Early in the morning, before any natives come on board, we sent a boat
                     to the offing with the body of one of our seamen, who had acted as butcher on
                     board the ship, but died the day before, of a hurt which he had received on the
                     5th of September by a fall. He was a laborious man, indefatigable in his
                     employment, though he seemed to be near sixty years old. This was the third man
                     whom we lost on this voyage, one having been drowned, and another dying of a
                     dropsy.</p>

                  <p n="828">We set out with the captain, the master, two midshipmen, and three
                     sailors, after breakfast, and ascended the hills from whence the rivulet
                     sprung, at which we watered. We found a convenient path all the way, though the
                     mountain was very steep in some place. The rock was every where of the same
                     nature; it was always a mixture of a kind of glimmer and quartz, more or less
                     tinged with an ochreous or reddish colour, which owed its origin to particles
                     of iron. We found the cayputi trees all the way up; but as we came higher, we
                     met with various sorts of shrubs, though thinly scattered, which offered new
                     species of flowers to our eyes. The higher we came, the more the trees dwindled
                     into shrubs, except in a few deep glens, where we observed some small rills
                     gushing down, which fertilized the ground so much, that a variety of plants
                     shot up in them with luxuriance. We had not ascended an hour, when we met a
                     body of near two hundred men of the natives descending, most of them well
                     armed, who seemed to have come on purpose to see the strangers. The greater
                     part turned back with us, seeing us advance towards the summit of the hill.
                     Being near the summit, we stopped to look at some stakes placed here and there
                     in the ground, with dry branches of trees and dry grasses laid across them. The
                     natives told us they buried their dead on this hill, and that the stakes
                     indicated the places where every one was interred.17 In the meanwhile,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, with the master, had reached the summit
                     of the hill, from whence he beheld the sea on the south side, at no greater
                     distance from the mountains than that to the north. A plain appeared on that
                     side watered by various rivulets, and some plantations could be discerned; but
                     upon the whole, no material difference was observed between the two sides of
                     the ridge. The natives seeing us very dry, and tired by the immense heat of the
                     day, brought us some sugar-canes, though I cannot conceive where they found
                     them so soon, as we could not see, or indeed suppose, any growing in the
                     neighbourhood. The tops of the hills were almost entirely barren, but still
                     consisted of the same kind of stone, which seemed to indicate, that
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> contains some valuable minerals.18
                     Their height, from the time which the ascent took up, and all other
                     circumstances considered, appears not to be very considerable, and must be
                     inferior to the height of the <placeName>Table-mountain</placeName> at the
                        <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, which, according to <persName>abbè
                        la Caille<ref target="#edn249">
                           <note xml:id="edn249" anchored="true"> See his <hi rend="italics">Voyage</hi>, p. 237. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>, is said to be 3350 <placeName>Rhinland</placeName> feet high. We
                     descended by a different path, which was more steep and rugged than the first,
                     but likewise brought us down on the plain in a much shorter time. We found a
                     number of plantations on that part of the plain where we came down, which was a
                     considerable way to the westward of our watering-place. A few habitations of
                     the natives were situated in the midst of these cultivated spots, without being
                     sheltered against the sun. Their inhabitants came out, and offered us some cups
                     full of fresh water, which the heat rendered very acceptable. This friendly
                     action is fully sufficient to prove that the people have a kind and hospitable
                     disposition, which nothing but their indigence, and their ungrateful soil,
                     prevented them from manifesting in a more striking manner. In our polished
                     regions we sometimes see real generosity shine through the cracks of a ruinous
                     cottage, while it faintly glimmers in sumptuous palaces.</p>

                  <p n="829">Having rejoined our watering party, we returned on board, where we
                     found a number of natives, who visited every part of the ship, and disposed of
                     their clubs, spears, and ornaments. One among them was prodigiously tall, and
                     seemed at least six feet five inches high, and the black cylindrical cap which
                     he wore, made him appear at least eight inches higher. Many of these caps were
                     ornamented with the feathers of the Ceylonese owl, which is also to be met with
                     here and in the woods of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>; and it was almost a
                     general custom to tie the sling round them, letting the tassel hang down on the
                     shoulder. Fern leaves were likewise no uncommon ornament about these caps,
                     which the natives sold us for <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, though
                     they set a great value upon them. The number of ear-rings, which many of them
                     wore, was remarkable; we observed one who had no less than eighteen, made of
                     tortoise-shell, an inch in diameter, and a quarter of an inch in breadth. They
                     brought a musical instrument, a kind of whistle, for sale this day. It was a
                     little polished piece of brown wood, about two inches long, shaped like a bell,
                     though apparently solid, with a rope fixed at the small end. Two holes were
                     made in it near the base, and another near the insertion of the rope, all which
                     had some communication with each other, and by blowing in the uppermost, a
                     shrill sound, like whistling, was formed at the other. Besides this, we never
                     observed any instrument among them which had the least relation to music. They
                     had now begun to take our large spike-nails; but seeing some round iron bolts
                     in the ship, to which some of the cordage is fastened (commonly called
                     belaying-pins), they constantly shewed a great desire of possessing them. They
                     did not attempt to take the least trifle by stealth, behaving with the
                     strictest honesty and propriety on board. Many came swimming from the shore,
                     which was better than a mile off, holding their piece of brown cloth out of the
                     water with one hand, whilst with the other they moved forwards, and brought
                     with them a spear, or a club, though not of the sort which is made of casuarina
                     wood, that being too heavy to be conveyed in such a manner.</p>

                  <p n="830">We embarked in a boat after dinner, and landed near two miles to the
                     west of our watering-place, on a point which formed the bay where our ship lay
                     at anchor. Here <persName>captain Cook</persName> took some bearings, whilst we
                     pursued our researches. Immediately on the beach we found a large irregular
                     mass of rock, not less than a cube of ten feet, which consisted of a
                     close-grained horn-stone, speckled full of garnets, somewhat bigger than pins
                     heads. This discovery confirmed what we had before conjectured, viz. that there
                     was some probability of meeting with rich and useful minerals upon this island,
                     which, as far as we saw, distinguished itself from all those we had hitherto
                     examined in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>, in being entirely destitute
                     of volcanic productions.19 From this rock we struck into the woods which lined
                     the shore, and which happened to be very thick in this part to a short distance
                     on all sides. Here we found a few young bread-fruit-trees, not yet sufficiently
                     grown to bear fruit; but they seemed to have come up without culture, and were
                     perhaps indigenous wild trees of the country. We likewise met with a new
                     species of passion-flower, which was chiefly extraordinary on this account,
                     that all its species formerly known to the learned world were confined to
                        <placeName>America</placeName>. I separated from my company during this
                     search, and came into a hollow sandy way, which was hung with bindweeds and
                     sweet-scented shrubs on both sides, and seemed to have been the bed of a
                     torrent or rivulet. It brought me to a group of two or three huts, surrounded
                     by coco-nut trees. Before one of them I observed a man seated with a little
                     girl of eight or ten years old on his lap, and examining her head. He was
                     somewhat surprised at sight of me, but presently recovering his tranquillity,
                     proceeded in his occupation. He had a piece of fine transparent quartz in his
                     hand, which having a very sharp edge, he made use of instead of scissars to cut
                     the girl's hair. I made her a present of some black beads, and also gave him a
                     few, with which he seemed much pleased. I now went on to the other huts, and
                     found two placed so near together, as to inclose an area of about ten feet
                     square, which was partly shut in with a fence. Here I found three women, one
                     middle-aged, and the others somewhat younger, who made a fire under one of
                     those large earthen pots which I have already mentioned. As soon as they saw
                     me, they made signs that I should leave them; however, being desirous to see
                     their method of cooking, I came in, and saw that they had stuffed the pot full
                     of dry grasses and green leaves, in which they had wrapped up a few small yams.
                     These roots are therefore in a manner baked in this pot, or undergo the same
                     operation which the natives of <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> perform by
                     burying them under a heap of earth, among heated stones. It was with difficulty
                     they would give me time to intrude so far; they repeated their signs that I
                     should go away, and pointing to the huts, moved their fingers several times
                     under their throat; which I interpreted, that if they were observed to be thus
                     alone with a stranger, they would be choaked or killed.20 I left them after
                     they had made this gesture, and peeped into the huts, which I found quite
                     empty. Returning into the wood, I met <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>; and we
                     went to the women again, in order to look at their work once more, and to be
                     convinced whether I had properly interpreted their signs, or whether they had
                     only some particular objection to my appearance. We found them in the same
                     place, and walking up to them, immediately made them a present of some beads,
                     which they accepted with great expressions of joy; but at the same time they
                     repeated the gestures which they had made when I came alone, and looked at us
                     as if they would add entreaties to the signs, with which we immediately
                     complied, and returned. We met the rest of our company some time after, and
                     being athirst, asked the man who cut his daughter's hair for a little water. He
                     shewed us a tree, on which he had hung about a dozen coco-nut shells, filled
                     with fresh water, that element being to all appearance rather scarce in the
                     country. We emptied some of these cups, and made him a present of a bit of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, with which he seemed to be well
                     pleased. From hence we proceeded to the watering-place, some by land, and some
                     in the boat. We shot some curious birds by the way, with which the country
                     abounds; and among the rest a species of crow, which is common in
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>. At the watering-place we found a considerable
                     number of natives, some of whom, for a little rag of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, carried our people into and out of
                     their boats about forty yards, the water being too shallow for boats at that
                     distance from the shore. Here we also saw some women, who, far from expressing
                     any dread of the jealousy of their men, came among the croud, and sometimes
                     amused themselves in encouraging the proposals of our seamen. They commonly
                     beckoned them to come into the bushes, but as soon as the sailors followed,
                     they gave them the slip, and ran with such agility, that they could not be
                     overtaken. Thus they took pleasure in disappointing their new adorers, and
                     laughed very heartily as often as they had put their little arts in practice.
                     There was not a single instance, during our stay upon the island, of their ever
                     having condescended to permit any indecent familiarity from an European; an
                     innocent recreation, which shewed them good humoured, and not destitute of
                     ingenuity, was what they strictly adhered to.</p>

                  <p n="831">The captain's clerk purchased a fish on shore, for a piece of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth, from one of the natives, who had
                     killed it with a spear. As soon as he came on board, he sent it to the captain;
                     and as I found it to be a new species, I made a drawing and description of it.
                     It was of the genus, by <persName>Linnӕus</persName> named <hi rend="italics">tetraodon</hi>, of which several species are reckoned poisonous.21 We
                     hinted this circumstance to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, especially as
                     the ugly shape, and large head of the fish, were greatly in its disfavour; but
                     he told us he had eaten this identical sort of fish on the coast of
                        <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, during his former voyage, without the
                     least bad consequences. It was accordingly preserved for the next day, and we
                     sat down very chearful, in expectation of a fresh meal. At supper the liver of
                     this fish was served up, which was very large and oily. For this reason the
                     captain, my father, and myself eat only a morsel or two of it, and thought it
                     had no other bad taste, than what arose from the oil. Our messmate,
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, fortunately did not touch it. We went to
                     bed upon this somewhat early, intending to revisit the shore at day-break; but
                     at <time>three o'clock</time> in the morning, my father awaking, found himself
                     extremely giddy, and his hands and feet entirely, as it were, benumbed. He got
                     up, and was scarcely able to stand. He came into the steerage, where
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> slept, and acquainted him with his
                     illness. <persName>Captain Cook's</persName> apartment was only separated by a
                     thin partition: he was awake, and feeling the same symptoms of which he heard
                     my father complain, got out of bed, and found himself unable to walk without
                     holding onto something. I was in the same situation, upon being awakened by my
                     father, and crawled into the cabin, where the surgeon, <persName>Mr.
                        Patton</persName>, immediately appeared, to assist us. Our disorder had
                     indeed a most serious aspect; the blood had left our cheeks, all our limbs were
                     benumbed, and without sensation, and a great degree of languor and oppression
                     had taken place. Emetics were administered, which gave my father and myself
                     some relief, but had not much effect upon <persName>captain Cook</persName>. We
                     took a sudorific after this, and went to bed again.</p>

                  <p n="832">In the morning, about eight, we got up, very giddy and heavy; however I
                     found myself well enough to pass the whole morning in sketching the outlines of
                     six or eight plants, and some birds, which we had collected on our former
                     excursions. <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, in the mean while, went on shore
                     to collect farther supplies. Towards noon my father endeavoured to converse
                     with some of the natives who came into the ship. At sight of the fish, which
                     was hung under the half-deck, they made signs that it occasioned pain in the
                     stomach, and by leaning their heads upon one hand, and shutting their eyes,
                     expressed that it caused sleep and drowsiness, and death. Still thinking they
                     might only make these gestures in order to obtain the fish, we offered it to
                     them, but they refused it with the strongest marks of aversion, holding both
                     their hands out before them, and turning away the head. They afterwards desired
                     us to throw it into the sea, but we determined to preserve it in spirits of
                     wine.</p>

                  <p n="833">I was severely punished about noon for making light of my complaint,
                     and passing the morning at work; for I was suddenly seized with sickness, and
                     forced to go to bed, by a returning fit of dizziness. The only remedies which
                     gave any relief, were sudorifics; but the poison was of too virulent a nature,
                     to be subdued in a short time. It prevented our making those researches, which
                     from the nature of the country before us, would doubtless have teemed with a
                     variety of interesting discoveries in every branch of natural history.
                        <date>[Friday 9.]</date>The next morning <persName>lieutenant
                        Pickersgill</persName>, was sent with the launch and another boat, to an
                     island to the west, about eight leagues distant, which the natives named
                        <placeName>Balabeea</placeName>; in order to examine the situation and
                     direction of the coasts in that part. We saw these boats put off with the
                     greatest regret, being obliged by the continuance of our dizziness, to forego
                     this opportunity of examining an extensive tract of unknown country. Absolute
                     inability to stand or walk longer than five minutes at a time, was the only
                     circumstance which with-held us from embarking on this excursion. The poison
                     which had been thus fatal to us, had likewise affected several dogs, taken on
                     board at the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>; these creatures having
                     seized upon the remains of the liver, were extremely ill, and had the same
                     symptoms as those which were poisoned at <placeName>Mallicollo</placeName>. A
                     little pig, the only one which we obtained at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>,
                     having eaten the entrails of the fish, died soon after, being swelled to an
                     unusual size.</p>

                  <p n="834">The natives who came on board, began now to admire our iron ware, and
                     readily took nails, knives, and hatchets. <persName>Tea-booma</persName> the
                     chief, sent <persName>captain Cook</persName> a present of some sugar-canes and
                     yams, which, considering the poverty of the country, was indeed a kingly
                     present. He was complimented in return with a hatchet, a gimlet, and a
                     Taheitian dog of each sex, these animals being entirely unknown in the country.
                     We endeavoured to obtain the name of this great island from the natives, but we
                     could not succeed, being always put off with the appellations of particular
                     districts. Thus for instance, they called the part opposite to the ship,
                        <placeName>Baladd</placeName> the observatory island,
                        <placeName>Poozooe</placeName>; and the district beyond the hills on the S.
                     W. coast, <placeName>Teabooma</placeName>; which being also the name of the
                     chief, occasioned several conjectures. The general name of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName> was therefore preserved, particularly as it suited not
                     only with the good disposition of the people, but also with the nature of the
                     country.</p>

                  <p n="835">We ventured, though excessively weakened, to go on shore
                        <date>[Saturday 10.]</date>the next morning. Having landed to the eastward
                     of the watering-place, we walked across a part of the plain, which was wholly
                     uncultivated, and covered with thin dry grasses. A path brought us into a fine
                     wood at the foot of the hills, which abounded with new plants, birds, and
                     insects. Every thing conspired here, to make us look upon the country as a
                     solitude. We saw the hills before us, and on both sides, without a single
                     habitation upon them, and the plain which we had crossed, was in this
                     neighbourhood equally destitute of inhabitants. The population of
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> must indeed be extremely thin; for the
                     soil is unfit for cultivation on the mountains, and the narrow plain itself, is
                     for the greatest part very barren and desert. We proceeded to the eastward,
                     till we came near a few houses, placed among swamps. Some of the inhabitants
                     came to us with great good-nature in their countenances, and pointed out the
                     places where we might walk with safety without sinking into the mud. We
                     observed that their houses had not only a covering of mats made of coco-nut
                     leaves, but that the innermost coating sometimes consisted of the bark of the
                     cayputi-tree. Before one of the huts, some of the natives were eating a few
                     leaves which had been stewed; and others sucking the bark of the <hi rend="italics">hibiscus tiliaceus</hi>, after they had broiled it over the
                     fire. We tasted of this bark, but found it extremely insipid, nauseous, and
                     affording little nutriment. Necessity seems to have forced the people to
                     content themselves with the most scanty means of subsistence, at certain
                     seasons; and no time of the year is more likely to be severely felt, than that
                     of spring, when their winter shores is exhausted, and the new crop is not yet
                     come up. They doubtless supply the deficiency by fishing, for which the
                     extensive reefs round their island furnish the best opportunity; but since our
                     arrival in the harbour it had blown rather fresh, and the wind daily encreased
                     to such a pitch, that it would have been to no purpose to venture from the
                     shore. <persName>Mahine</persName>, whilst he accompanied us, frequently used
                     to mention, that even the opulent natives of <persName>Taheitee</persName> and
                     the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, sometimes, though rarely, feel the
                     inconveniences of a dry or barren year, and are obliged during some months, to
                     have recourse to fern-roots, the bark of various trees, and the fruit of wild
                     bushes, to satisfy the cravings of hunger.</p>

                  <p n="836">We found near these huts a number of tame fowls of a large breed, and
                     bright plumage, which were the only domestic animals of any kind, belonging to
                     the natives; and also saw heaps of shells, which they had collected on the
                     reefs, and of which they had eaten the fish. The temper of these people in
                     general was indolent, and almost destitute of curiosity; the greater part of
                     them did not stir from their seats, when we passed by their huts, spoke very
                     seldom, and almost always in a serious tone. The women were somewhat more
                     cheerful, and those who were married, carried their infants on their backs in a
                     kind of satchel.</p>

                  <p n="837">We returned on board about <time>one o'clock</time>, but landed again
                     after dinner. Having observed that the bushes and trees near the sea-side, were
                     better stocked with birds than those in the interior country, because they
                     afforded more shade and more food, we confined our excursion to the plain,
                     being desirous of encreasing our zoological collection. We fell in with another
                     group of huts, close to the water; here the natives had put one of their large
                     earthen pots over the fire, and filled it with shells, of which by this means
                     they roasted the fish. We saw one of them who had a hatchet in his hand, of a
                     very remarkable shape. It was made of a crooked piece of wood, which forms a
                     great knob, but has a short handle, not exceeding six inches. The other end is
                     hollowed out, and a black stone just fitting the cavity is placed in it,
                     without being tied on, as is the case with the hatchets of the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly
                     Islands</placeName>.22 We purchased this hatchet, it being the first instrument
                     relating to agriculture which we had seen in this country. We likewise made an
                     acquisition of some clubs, slings, and spears, and had an opportunity of
                     admiring the skill of several youths, who made use of their slings with the
                     greatest precision. In the course of our rambles, we came to an enclosure of
                     sticks, round a little hillock or mound, four feet high; within the enclosure
                     the natives had stuck in the ground some other sticks beset with large
                     trumpet-shells. We enquired for what purpose this spot was so enclosed, and
                     were told that the chiefs of the district were buried in that ground. As we
                     found numerous burying-places on the hills, it appears to be a general custom
                     with the natives, to commit their dead bodies to the earth. This manner of
                     disposing of the dead, seems indeed much more judicious than that of
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName>, where they expose them above ground, till
                     all the flesh is perfectly putrified. If the mortality were more considerable,
                     than we have reason to believe it in that happy island, this custom might have
                     the most pernicious consequences, and produce a dreadful epidemical distemper.
                     Europeans, above all, should be extremely cautious of communicating any
                     contagious disorder to the people whom they visit in the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>. Such a disease as the small pox, for example, would
                     undoubtedly make dreadful havock, and go near to destroy the whole race of
                     Taheitians.23</p>

                  <p n="838">The acrimony of the poison which we had received into the body, by
                     tasting the liver of the fish, had so much weakened us, that we were entirely
                     exhausted towards evening, and obliged to sit down repeatedly, in order to
                     recruit our wasted spirits. We still felt returns of dizziness which made us
                     unfit for any kind of researches, in spite of ourselves, and even deprived us
                     of the power of thinking, judging, and remembering, as well as of the perfect
                     use of our external senses. I cannot mention this misfortune, without lamenting
                     once more, that it befell us in a country newly discovered, where we had more
                     need than ever of perfect health, and of all our attention and discernment, in
                     order to make the most of the few moments which we were allowed to spend among
                     a people wholly different from all we had hitherto seen. The reader, who
                     perhaps may find less food for his curiosity in this part of our narrative,
                     than he expected, is requested to consider our unhappy situation at that time,
                     when all our corporeal and intellectual faculties were impaired by this
                     virulent poison. We came back before it was dark to the ship, which the natives
                     left soon after our return. A few of them only went off in canoes; for, as the
                     wind blew very hard, the greatest number had come on board swimming, and
                     returned the same way. We saw forty of fifty put off together, and in spite of
                     the great agitation of the water, swim to the shore; it blew so hard the next
                     morning, however, that none of them came back to the ship.</p>

                  <p n="839">
                     <date>[Sunday 11.]</date>We went ashore again, though we were much wetted in
                     our passage thither, and took a walk to the westward. On this excursion we saw
                     a great number of birds, and enriched our collection with many new species. It
                     is not to be doubted, that the vicinity of such an extensive continent as that
                     of <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, contributes to encrease the variety of
                     animal and vegetable species in this island. To confirm this assertion, we may
                     quote the testimony of <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and of all those
                     persons who had seen <placeName>New Holland</placeName> with him in the
                     Endeavour, and who, upon examining <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>,
                     unanimously pronounced that in its general appearance it perfectly resembled
                     that continent. <placeName>New Holland</placeName> is said to differ from
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> only in having a more fertile soil in
                     some places, consisting of a stratum of vegetable earth; but there is no
                     difference in the growth of the trees, the want of shrubbery in the forests,
                     and the general dryness or parched appearance of the country.24 We stopped at
                     several houses of the natives, situated in a group of shady trees; the
                     inhabitants of these huts were seated on the ground, without any occupation,
                     and none but young people rose from their seats at our approach. We found here
                     a man who had perfectly flaxen hair, a complexion much fairer than common, and
                     his face covered with freckles.25 Anomalous individuals have been found among
                     the Negroes of <placeName>Africa</placeName>, and the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>America</placeName>, the <placeName>Moluccas</placeName>, and the
                     tropical islands of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>; but their weak habit
                     of body, and particularly a weakness in their eyes, have given the greatest
                     room to believe, that a disease of the parents occasioned these varieties<ref target="#edn250">
                        <note xml:id="edn250" anchored="true"> This opinion is very ably set forth
                           by <persName>M. Paauw</persName>, in the <hi rend="italics">Recherches
                              Philosophiques sur le Americains</hi>, vol. II. sect. I. Des
                           Blasards &amp; des Negres blancs. </note>
                     </ref>. In the man whom we saw, no symptom of weakness, and no defect in the
                     organs of sight could be observed; and therefore some slighter cause must have
                     influenced the colour of his hair and skin. A gentleman cut off a lock of his
                     hair, as well as another from a man of the common colour, and gave them both to
                     us. The natives expressed some dislike on losing their lock of hair, but as he
                     had performed the operation before they were aware, he soon pacified them with
                     a few trifles.26 Their good temper, and their indolence, seem to make their
                     resentment very short-lived, especially upon trifling occasions.</p>

                  <p n="840">After leaving these huts, we rambled separately all the morning, and
                     did not rejoin each other till it was time to return. <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, with my father, had gone upon the hills, whilst I
                     remained in the woody skirts of the plain, and conversed as well as I could
                     with the natives. They gave me the names of many districts upon their island,
                     of which we had not heard before, and of which we could not make use, for want
                     of knowing their proper situations. Here I saw again many individuals with one
                     leg, or arm, of an enormous size, in the same manner as I had observed some at
                     our first landing, (see p. 383.) and one had both his legs afflicted in the
                     same manner. I touched this swelling, and found it extremely hard; but the skin
                     was not harsh and scaly alike in all the sick persons. The preternatural
                     expansion of the leg or arm did not appear to be a great inconvenience to them,
                     and, as far as I understood, they rarely feel any pain in it; but in some the
                     disorder caused a kind of excoriation, and began to form blotches, which were
                     marks of a greater degree of virulence. The leprosy, of which this
                     elephantiasis, or prodigious swelling, according to the opinion of the medical
                     faculty, is a species, seems to be a disease particularly incident to dry,
                     parched climates. The countries where it commits the greatest ravages, as the
                     coast of <placeName>Malabar</placeName>, <placeName>Egypt</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Palestine</placeName>, and all <placeName>Africa</placeName>, are
                     remarkable for droughts, and contain in many places vast tracts of sandy
                     desarts. I do not mean to suppose that leprosy is the natural effect of a dry
                     climate, but only to hint, that heat and drought may contribute to make the
                     human body more liable to its attacks. I observed this day that the women of
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> are hardly so much esteemed by the men
                     as those of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. They commonly kept at a distance from
                     the men, and seemed fearful of offending them by a look or gesture; they were
                     the only persons in the family who had any employment, and several of them
                     brought bundles of sticks and fuel on their backs. Their insensible husbands
                     seldom deigned to look upon them, and continued in a kind of phlegmatic
                     indolence, whilst the women sometimes indulged that social cheerfulness, which
                     is the distinguishing ornament of the sex. Thus, in every country, mankind are
                     fond of being tyrants, and the poorest Indian, who knows no wants but those
                     which his existence requires, has already learnt to enslave his weaker
                     helpmate, in order to save himself the trouble of supplying those wants, and
                     cruelly exacts an obedience from her, which has been continued among savages as
                     a curse upon the sex<ref target="#edn251">
                        <note xml:id="edn251" anchored="true"> Gen. iii. ver. 16. </note>
                     </ref>. Considering these humiliations and cruel oppressions of the sex, we
                     have sometimes the greatest reason to admire, that the human race has
                     perpetuated itself, and that the Creator has wisely planted a motive in the
                     female breast, which stands the test of every outrage, which makes them patient
                     to suffer, and prevents their withdrawing from the power of their tyrants.</p>

                  <p n="841">After dining on board, we passed the afternoon ashore again, and were
                     so far successful in our researches, as to obtain a beautiful species of
                     parrot, which was entirely new to zoologists. It was shot in a plantation far
                     exceeding every thing I had seen upon <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> for
                     extent, as well as for the variety and flourishing state of the vegetables in
                     it. There were several walks of bananas, several fields of yams and eddoes,
                     together with sugar-canes, and likewise some species of yamboo-trees (<hi rend="italics">eugenia</hi>), which we had never seen before. Different
                     parts of it were separated by paths, and the whole was kept in good order.
                     Industrious individuals are therefore to be met with even among these indolent
                     people; and when navigators have an opportunity of becoming the benefactors of
                     savages, for example, by giving them domestic animals, they should select such
                     people as are most likely to make a good use of their presents.</p>

                  <p n="842">We returned on board in the evening, after shooting at a mark to amuse
                     some of the natives, who set up their clubs for that purpose, and were much
                     pleased with our supposed skill. Soon after arrived the two boats with
                        <persName>lieutenant Pickersgill</persName> had conducted to the westward,
                     and which had been detained by contrary winds. We were fortunate enough to
                     collect the following particulars of that intelligent officer's excursion.
                     Having set out from the ship, he did not approach the shore till he had
                     advanced several leagues, and saw many turtles on the water, of which he could
                     not strike one, on account of the violence of the wind. The boats putting
                     ashore, found the face of the country, towards the N. W. end of the island,
                     very like the part opposite our anchoring place, though considerably more
                     fertile and cultivated, and covered with many coco-trees. The natives were as
                     civil and inoffensive in this place as we had found them from the beginning.
                     Two of them, who had already been on board the ship, hearing that our people
                     intended to cross over to the <placeName>isle of Balabeea</placeName>, more to
                     the northward, took a passage in the cutter. One of them, whose name was
                        <persName>Boobik</persName>, was a merry fellow, different in this respect
                     from most of his countrymen; he talked a great deal to our people at first, and
                     taught them his name, which they pronounced <hi rend="italics">booby</hi>,
                     with the same pleasure with which he heard it. After some time, however, the
                     waves rising, and frequently washing into the boat, he became very silent, and
                     crept into a boat-cloak, to screen himself from the wet, and recover from the
                     chilliness which the wind occasioned on his naked body. He likewise grew very
                     hungry, having taken no provisions with him, and very thankfully received what
                     our people offered him. His situation, and that of all his companions, however,
                     became very soon alarming to the highest degree. The cutter sprung a leak,
                     which admitted such quantities of water, that it was impossible to free the
                     boat, though every body baled with his hat, or such utensil as he could find
                     most fit for the purpose. They were presently reduced to heave over-board a
                     cask of fresh water, and many other articles, in order to lighten the boat; but
                     all was to no purpose, till having cleared away some bundles, they found the
                     leak, which they stopped as well as they could for the present with their caps,
                     and with rags, and proceeded for the <placeName>isle of Balabeea</placeName>
                     with all possible dispatch. <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName>, in the
                     launch, met a canoe of that island with a few natives, who had caught a large
                     quantity of fish, of which they readily shared out a part to him for a trifling
                     consideration of iron-ware. It was late in the afternoon when he arrived upon
                     the island. The natives, being exactly of the same race as those of
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>, were not less good-tempered, and
                     freely parted with their arms to our people for trifles of iron-ware, or
                        <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> cloth. They also, at the desire of
                        <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName>, brought him some fresh water.</p>

                  <p n="843">In the evening our party retired to a few bushes, and made a great
                     fire, by which they broiled the fish which had been presented to them, and ate
                     their suppers. A number of the natives still remained with them, and spoke of a
                     great land to the northward, which they called <placeName>Mingha</placeName>,
                     of which the inhabitants were their enemies, and very warlike. They likewise
                     pointed out a sepulchral mound or <hi rend="italics">tumulus</hi>, where one
                     of their chiefs lay buried, who had been killed in defence of his own country,
                     by the hand of a native of <placeName>Mingha</placeName>.27 The appearance of a
                     large beef-bone, which some of our people began to pick towards the conclusion
                     of their supper, interrupted this conversation. The natives talked very loud
                     and earnestly to each other, looked with great surprize, and some marks of
                     disgust, at our people, and at last went away all together, expressing by signs
                     that they suspected the strangers of eating human flesh. Our officer
                     endeavoured to free himself and his shipmates from this suspicion; but the want
                     of language was an unsurmountable obstacle to this undertaking, even supposing
                     it possible to persuade a set of people, who had never seen a quadruped in
                     their lives. The next morning they went about to mend their boat, and spread
                     their wet cloaths upon the ground to dry in the sun. The natives gathered about
                     them in great crouds from all parts of the island, and <persName>Mr.
                        Pickersgill</persName> found it adviseable to draw lines on the sand, in
                     order to secure the cloaths of his people. The natives very readily came into
                     his proposal, and never crossed the lines. One of them, however, seemed to be
                     more surprised than all the rest at this contrivance, and with a great deal of
                     humour drew a circle round about himself, on the ground, with a stick; and
                     intimated, by many ludicrous gestures, that every body present should keep at a
                     distance from him. This little sally was the more striking, as it was extremely
                     uncommon among the grave inhabitants of these countries. They spent the day in
                     repairing their boats, and examining the island on which they had landed; and
                     the next morning before day-break put off, in order to return. They were,
                     however, unfortunate enough to find their repairs to little purpose, and
                     therefore, in order to lighten the boat, landed on <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName> at six in the morning. They left only the rowers in
                     the boat, and proceeded on foot, along a coast of near twenty-four miles, to
                     the land abreast of the ship. One of the surgeon's mates, who went on this
                     excursion, collected a prodigious variety of new and curious shells upon the
                        <placeName>island of Ballabeea</placeName>, and likewise met with many new
                     species of plants, of which we did not see a single specimen in the districts
                     we had visited; but the meanest and most unreasonable envy taught him to
                     conceal these discoveries from us, though he was utterly incapable of making
                     use of them for the benefit of science<ref target="#edn252">
                        <note xml:id="edn252" anchored="true"> It will not be improper to acquaint
                           the reader, that we were so situated on board the Resolution, as to meet
                           with obstacles in all our researches, from those who might have been
                           expected to give us all manner of assistance. It has always been the fate
                           of science and philosophy to incur the contempt of ignorance, and this we
                           might have suffered without repining; but as we could not purchase the
                           good will of every petty tyrant with gold, we were studiously debarred
                           the means of drawing the least advantage to science from the observations
                           of others, who of themselves did not know how to make the proper use of a
                           discovery when they had made it. Circumstances which were known to every
                           person around us, remained impenetrable mysteries to us; and it was
                           assuredly not owing to the good nature of our shipmates, if we have been
                           fortunate enough to obtain even such trifling information, as has enabled
                           me to give the true and exact situations of every place in this
                           narrative, and in my chart. If it had been possible, they would have
                           deceived even our eyes. It may seem extraordinary, that men of science,
                           sent out in a ship belonging to the most enlightened nation in the world,
                           should be cramped and deprived of the means of pursuing knowledge, in a
                           manner which would only become a set of barbarians; but it is certain,
                           that the traveller who visits the ruins of <placeName>Egypt</placeName>
                           and <placeName>Palestine</placeName>, cannot experience greater
                           mortification from the ignorant selfishness of Bedouins and other Arabs,
                           than fell to our lot; since every discovery we attempted to make, was
                           supposed to contain a treasure, which became the object of envy. The
                           world will, however, derive one advantage from this proceeding; we shall
                           have little to offer, but what we have seen with our own eyes, and for
                           the truth and precision of which we can be answerable. If there had not
                           been a few individuals of a more liberal way of thinking, whose
                           disinterested love for the sciences comforted us from time to time, we
                           should in all probability have fallen victims to that malevolence, which
                           even the positive commands of <persName>captain Cook</persName> were
                           sometimes insufficient to keep within bounds. </note>
                     </ref>.28 We had therefore more reason than ever to regret that our illness
                     disabled us from sharing the perils of this little excursion. </p>

                  <p n="844">We accompanied <persName>captain Cook</persName> the next morning into
                     the river to the eastward, where he went to give his friend
                        <persName>Heebaï</persName> a little pig of each sex, in order to provide,
                     if possible, a stock of domestic animals for a nation, whose good, inoffensive
                     temper seemed highly to deserve such a present. We found this man and his
                     family at the huts where we had first seen him; and <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> having delivered the pigs to him, each of us contributed his
                     mite of knowledge of the language, in order to make it intelligible to him,
                     that the propagation of these animals would supply him, in course of time, with
                     constant food, and that they deserved to be carefully nursed. He, as well as
                     the whole family, were surprised at the sight of these creatures, and at first
                     expressed so much dislike and dread of them, that they made signs to us to take
                     them back. We now redoubled our efforts to convince them of their error, and at
                     last prevailed upon them to keep the pigs. It must be allowed, that swine are
                     far from being well-looking quadrupeds, and that those who have never seen an
                     animal of that class, cannot be supposed to like them at first sight. Men seem
                     to have had recourse to animal food through necessity at first, as the
                     depriving any creature of life is an act of violence, which demands a powerful
                     cause, before it is made familiar by habit. When they had the choice, it should
                     seem that such ill-looking animals as hogs were commonly rejected, till a more
                     urgent opportunity proved, that, in spite of their appearance, their flesh was
                     as delicious as that of sheep and oxen. The poor natives of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName> had hitherto tasted no other animal food than fish and
                     birds, and therefore the introduction of a quadruped into their œconomy, could
                     not fail to surprise them. We walked about for some time among the marshes and
                     plantations, and came to a house detached from the rest, which was enclosed by
                     stakes, and behind which we saw a row of wooden pillars.29 Each of them was
                     about a foot square, and nine feet high; and on the top of each a human head
                     was rudely carved. Here we found a solitary old man, who, on our pointing to
                     these pillars, made signs that they indicated his burying-place. Nothing is
                     more remarkable in the history of mankind, than the general concurrence of
                     different nations, to erect a monument on the spot where they lie buried. To
                     dive into the original motives for this custom, with various people, would be a
                     curious and interesting pursuit, and might perhaps lead us to discover, among
                     all nations an universal idea of a future state.</p>

                  <p n="845">After leaving this spot, we passed a plantation, where the natives, and
                     particularly the women, were at work to clear, and dig up a piece of swampy
                     ground, probably in order to plant it with yams or eddoes. They had an
                     instrument with a long crooked, and sharp-pointed bill, like the bill of a
                     bird, with which they stirred up the soil. The same tool they frequently make
                     use of as an offensive weapon, and as such I mentioned it on page 385. It seems
                     the soil of this country is so poor, as to require more than ordinary pains to
                     make it fit for planting, especially as I never observed the people digging in
                     this manner, in any of the islands of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>.30
                     We shot some curious and beautiful birds at this place, and then returned to
                     the ship, where we found all the other boats hoisted in. We landed at the
                     watering-place after dinner, where <persName>captain Cook</persName> ordered
                     the following inscription to be cut into a remarkable large and shady tree on
                     the beach, close to the rivulet; " His Britannic Majesty's Ship Resolution,
                     Sept. 1774." This being done, we rambled for the last time along the brook,
                     which had supplied us with as much water as we had expended since our departure
                     from <placeName>Tanna</placeName>; and having snatched a few plants, which our
                     disorder had caused us to overlook before, we took our last leave of this large
                     island, and were hurried on board from our scene of action.</p>

                  <p n="846">
                     <date>[Tuesday 13.]</date>At day-light the next morning, the seamen weighed the
                     anchors, the ship soon cleared the reefs, and we stood along shore to the N. W.
                     We had lain in this harbour exactly seven days and a half; but on the third
                     night after our arrival, we were poisoned by eating of the fish, by which means
                     we lost the opportunity of making the most of this short stay. On leaving this
                     place, we were far from being recovered, but had daily acute head-aches, and
                     spasmodic pains over the body, together with an eruption on our lips. We also
                     felt ourselves much weakened, and unfit to go through our usual occupations;
                     whilst the want of fresh food greatly contributed to keep us in a lingering
                     state, and retarded our recovery. Thus we left an island situated in the
                     westernmost part of the <placeName>South Pacific Ocean</placeName>, not above
                     12 degrees distant from the coast of <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, and
                     inhabited by a race of men very distinct from all we had hitherto seen in the
                     same ocean. From their vicinity to <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, one
                     might have been apt to suppose, that they had the same origin with the people
                     of that continent; but upon comparing all the accounts of former voyagers, who
                     have visited <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, its inhabitants bear no
                     resemblance to one another, and as a farther proof, the vocabulary of both
                     nations is totally different<ref target="#edn253">
                        <note xml:id="edn253" anchored="true"> A vocabulary of the <placeName>New
                              Holland</placeName> language was obligingly communicated to us by
                              <persName>captain Cook</persName>. </note>
                     </ref>. Their numbers appear to be very inconsiderable, and the most probable
                     guess we would form of them, after ranging the whole northern coast of the
                     island, does not make them amount to fifty thousand, upon a sea-coast of near
                     two hundred leagues. The country which they inhabit, seems indeed to be very
                     unfit for cultivation in most parts. The narrow plain which surrounds it, is
                     full of swamps on the sea-side, covered with mangroves; and this part is with
                     much trouble drained by ditches, and dug till it is made fit for the purposes
                     of agriculture. The rest of the plain is somewhat higher, but in return
                     excessively dry, so that they are obliged to moisten it by means of canals
                     which conduct the water from the rivulets or pools. Beyond this several
                     hillocks rise, covered with a dry parched earth, where some species of
                     shrivelled grass, the cayputi-tree, and a few shrubs thrive, at a great
                     distance asunder; and from thence upwards, the interior mountains are almost
                     entirely destitute of vegetable earth in many places, and consist of a shining
                     red glimmer, and large pieces of quartz. The nature of this soil cannot give
                     luxuriance to the growth of vegetables; on the contrary, it is rather
                     surprising, that such a variety of species spring up in it, as we met with,
                     though they are for the greatest part dry, and of a very homely appearance.
                     Only the woods on some parts of the plain, are filled with shrubberies,
                     bind-weeds, gay flowers, and tufted shady trees. It is easy to be conceived,
                     that the contrast between <placeName>Nova Caledonia</placeName>, and the
                        <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName>, was very striking to us, who had so
                     lately visited those rich and fertile islands, where the vegetable kingdom
                     glories in its greatest perfection. The difference in the character of the
                     people was no less surprising. All the natives of the <placeName>South Sea
                        islands</placeName>, excepting those only which <persName>Tasman</persName>
                     found on <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName> and <placeName>Namoka<ref target="#edn254">
                           <note xml:id="edn254" anchored="true"> And those perhaps had been
                              informed of what had passed between <persName>le Maire</persName>, and
                              the natives of <placeName>Horne</placeName>,
                                 <placeName>Cocos</placeName>, and <placeName>Traitors
                                 Island</placeName>, some years before. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, made some attempt to drive away the strangers who came to visit
                     them. But the people of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> at the first sight
                     of us, received us as friends; they ventured to come on board our ship, without
                     the least marks of fear or distrust, and suffered us to ramble freely
                     throughout their country as far as we pleased. They resembled most the people
                     of <placeName>Tanna</placeName> in colour, and the woolliness of their hair;
                     but their stature was superior, their limbs in general more stout, their
                     features more mild, open, and inoffensive; and their customs in many respects
                     very different. The peculiar character of their faces may be seen in the
                     accurate portraits which <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> has drawn of each sex,
                     and which are engraved for <persName>captain Cook's</persName> account of this
                     voyage. A just idea of the country may likewise be formed, by consulting the
                     views which that ingenious artist has copied from nature. There is, however,
                     some similarity between their manufactures, and those of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName>; especially in the shape of their arms, in the
                     use of the rope or <hi rend="italics">becket</hi>, (see p. 279.) to throw
                     the spear, in the nature of the ornaments which they wear, and particularly in
                     what I have mentioned p. 277, and p. 383<ref target="#edn255">
                        <note xml:id="edn255" anchored="true"> Their arms, their cap, their becket,
                           and various other articles have been accurately drawn and engraved, under
                           my father's inspection, for captain <persName>Cook's</persName> account
                           of this voyage.32 </note>
                     </ref>. The language, which on these occasions is the surest guide, is totally
                     dissonant;31 their dwellings are of a different construction, and their mode of
                     living seems to correspond only in a few instances. The people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> are rich, in comparison with those of
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>; their plantations furnish them with
                     abundance of vegetables, and if these should fail, the woods on their sea-shore
                     are full of coco-palms, which offer an ample store of fruits. At <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>, the plantations yield in most places a scanty
                     produce; and the wild country, as far as we had an opportunity of examining it,
                     does not contain a single article which could be deemed of great service. On
                     the other hand, the people of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> seem to be
                     great fishermen, and the reefs round their island, give them excellent
                     opportunities for this purpose, and are doubtless at certain seasons, the
                     resort of turtles. As nature has been so sparing here of her gifts, it is the
                     most surprising, that instead of seeing the inhabitants savage, distrustful,
                     and warlike as at <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, we should find them peaceable,
                     well-disposed, and unsuspicious. It is not less remarkable, that in spite of
                     the drought which prevails in their country, and the scanty supply of vegetable
                     food, they should have attained to a greater size, and a more muscular body.
                     Perhaps instead of placing the causes which effect disparity of stature among
                     various nations in the difference of food, this instance ought to teach us, to
                     have some retrospect likewise to the original races from which those tribes are
                     descended, that fell under our examination. Let us for instance suppose, that
                     the people of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> are the offspring of a
                     nation, who by living in affluence, and in a genial climate, have not been
                     stinted in their growth; the colony which removed into the barren soil of
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>, will probably preserve the habit of
                     body of their ancestors for many generations. The people of
                        <placeName>Tanna</placeName> may have undergone a contrary revolution, and
                     being descended of a slender and short race, like the Mallicollese, the
                     richness of their present country may not yet entirely have taken effect. These
                     hints are submitted to the learned, whose province it is to confirm or refute
                     them; but on which side soever the truth may fall, I shall rest equally
                     contented, as I have adopted no particular system.</p>

                  <p n="847">The inoffensive character of the people of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName> appears to great advantage in their conduct towards
                     us. They are the only people in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName> who have
                     not had reason to complain of our arrival among them. When we consider how easy
                     it is to provoke the mariner to sport with the lives of Indians, from the
                     numerous examples throughout this narrative, we must acknowledge that it
                     required an uncommon degree of good temper, not to draw upon themselves a
                     single act of brutality. Those philosophers who are of opinion that the temper,
                     the manners, and genius of a people, depend entirely upon the climate, will be
                     at a loss to account for the peaceful character of the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>. If we admit that they are only
                     strangers to distrust, because they have little to lose, we shall not solve the
                     difficulty; since the people of <placeName>New Holland</placeName>, under the
                     influence of a similar climate and soil, and in a more wretched situation than
                     the inhabitants of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>, are savage and
                     unsociable. The different characters of nations seem therefore to depend upon a
                     multitude of different causes, which have acted together during a series of
                     many ages. The inhabitants of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> do not owe
                     their kind disposition to a total ignorance of wars and disputes; the variety
                     of their offensive weapons being alone sufficient to put this matter out of
                     doubt. By conversing with them we learnt that they have enemies, and that the
                     people of an island called <placeName>Mingha</placeName> had a very different
                     character from their own. I was once in a boat with <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> and <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, when one of the natives
                     acquainted us by very significant and intelligible gestures, that they had
                     enemies who feasted on human flesh; and the behaviour of the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>Balabeea</placeName>, on seeing our people eat salt beef, which
                     they mistook for human flesh, contributes to prove that such a custom is not
                     unknown to them, and that they look upon it with horror and detestation.
                     Civilization is therefore much farther advanced in this respect among them,
                     than with their more opulent neighbours. That higher degree of culture, where
                     the understanding is sufficiently enlightened to remove the unjust contempt
                     shewn to the fair sex, is however unknown to them; their temper is too grave to
                     be captivated by female blandishments, or to set a proper value upon the
                     refined enjoyments of life. They are obliged to work hard, at times, for the
                     means of subsistence; but their leisure hours are spent in indolence, without
                     those little recreations which contribute so much to the happiness of mankind,
                     and diffuse a spirit of cheerfulness and vivacity throughout the
                        <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.
                     Besides the little whistle which I have mentioned above, we never saw a musical
                     instrument among the people of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>. Their
                     dances and songs are equally unknown to us; and what we observed during our
                     short stay, gave us reason to suppose, that even laughter is an uncommon guest
                     among them. They are likewise niggards of speech, and we rarely met with
                     individuals among them, who took a pleasure in holding converse with us. Their
                     language therefore seems to be uncultivated, and their pronunciation so
                     indistinct, that the vocabularies which several of our shipmates collected,
                     disagreed remarkably. Though they have few harsh consonants, they have a
                     frequent return of gutturals and sometimes a nasal sound, or <hi rend="italics">rhinismus</hi>, which commonly puzzled those who were not
                     acquainted with any other language than the English. Perhaps, their plantations
                     lying remote from each other, are the means of preventing that familiar
                     intercourse which would gradually give life to the pleasures of society. As
                     their country seems not to be very fit for agriculture, the best means to
                     forward civilization among them might be the introduction of quadrupeds, such
                     as they should not find it difficult to maintain; for instance, a few hogs, to
                     keep near their huts, and goats to run wild. The latter in all probability
                     would thrive extremely well in that dry climate, and afford an excellent
                     article of food.</p>

                  <p n="848">That simplicity which is remarkable in their domestic life, cannot fail
                     to be conspicuous in their government. <persName>Teàbooma</persName> was
                     acknowledged as a chief in the district opposite the ship's anchoring-place,
                     but the poverty of the country did not afford him great and exclusive
                     advantages, and luxury being hitherto unknown, he lived like the rest of his
                     countrymen. Among a people so simple we cannot expect exterior marks of
                     deference; and the only act which seemed to indicate a certain degree of homage
                     on their part, consisted in delivering to the chief, the presents which they
                     had received from <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> at their first
                     interview. The neighbouring districts are not under the government of
                        <persName>Teàbooma</persName>, and probably have their own chiefs; or
                     perhaps each family forms a little kingdom of its own, which is directed by its
                     patriarch, as must be the case in all infant states. We cannot attempt to
                     extend our observations to the religion of the natives, of which, in the space
                     of eight days, we had no opportunity of acquiring any information. We did not
                     observe any thing which might distantly be construed into a religious act, nor
                     remark a single custom which had the least colour of superstition. Probably the
                     simplicity of their ideas on this subject, corresponds with the whole tenour of
                     their character. There is nothing to disprove this supposition, unless the
                     slight marks which point out their burying-places, should be deemed indications
                     that some ceremonies attend their funerals. Death, the most remarkable scene in
                     the oeconomy of human affairs, is commonly honoured with some unusual act by
                     the survivors; and grief is particularly apt to be extravagant. It remains
                     unknown whether the mortality is great or moderate at <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>, and what diseases are most fatal in that island. We
                     saw no other than the elephantiasis, a sort of leprosy, which I have already
                     mentioned, and which was very common. However, I never observed this evil in so
                     violent a degree, that the patient seemed to be in danger of losing his life by
                     it. Upon the whole, a great multitude of diseases are the consequences of
                     unbounded luxury, and cannot take place among persons so little refined as
                     those of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>. I saw some among them whose grey
                     hair and wrinkles indicated a great age; but it was impossible to converse with
                     them upon such an abstract idea as age, supposing they took the pains to number
                     their years. We were not able to make ourselves understood when we attempted to
                     make enquiries at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> concerning the age of the
                     inhabitants, though our knowledge of their language was very extensive, when
                     compared with the few words which we had snatched up in haste on <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>. After these few remarks, I resume the narrative of
                     the voyage.</p>

                  <p n="849">We steered between the north and west, along the reefs which enclose
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>, in order to ascertain the position of
                     lands which we had indistinctly seen in that quarter. Having advanced towards
                        <placeName>Balabeea</placeName>, we found the reefs running northerly, and
                     in some places near six leagues from the shore. Man of war birds, boobies, and
                     tropic birds frequented this part of the sea in great numbers, hovering about
                     our ship. <date>[Thursday 15.]</date>We discovered on the 15th, that there were
                     three islands to the north of the west end of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>; but, as the reef extended very far to the east of
                     them, and we could find no passage, it was impossible to form an exact idea of
                     their figure and extent. The largest of them might be about seven leagues long.
                     We were becalmed on the 15th, within four miles of the reef, towards which a
                     heavy swell drifted us very visibly. In order to prevent striking on these
                     dangerous rocks, we hoisted out two boats, and the crew were obliged to labour
                     very hard to tow the ship off. A faint breeze in the evening gave them some
                     respite, but at midnight they were obliged to return to their work, releasing
                     each other from time to time. <date>[Friday 16.]</date>The morning was so calm
                     that we went out to shoot birds, but had little success. We did not obtain a
                     breeze till the evening came on, and then, instead of losing our time in
                     farther researches to the northward, where we tried in vain to find a passage,
                     we left that part, and prepared to range the south-east end of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>. The northernmost lands, which we had seen, lie in
                        <geo select="lat">19° 37' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">163° 40' E.</geo>
                  </p>

                  <p n="850">
                     <date>[Saturday 17.]</date>The next morning we passed the district of
                        <placeName>Ballàdd</placeName>, where we had lain at anchor. Repeated calms
                     rendered our course very tedious; we did not advance above twenty leagues in
                     two days, and still seeing the land to the south of us, were apprehensive of
                     coming late to <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, where it was now said we
                     should prepare for the last southern cruize. We continued however standing to
                     the eastward, and somewhat southerly, having gentle breezes which lasted
                     several hours, between the calm intervals. <date>[Thursday 22.]</date>On the
                     22d, in the evening, we saw a remarkable bluff point on the land, which was
                     named <placeName>Cape Coronation</placeName>, in commemoration of that day. The
                     reefs which had enclosed the northern coasts of <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>, did not extend to this part; but as we had hitherto
                     kept at the distance of four or five leagues, we could not discern any thing of
                     the nature of the country, except that the ridge of mountains continued to run
                     along of the same height as near our anchoring-place, and without any
                     remarkable prominences or peaks. In the morning we saw a spot of ground, which
                     could not be less than half a mile in length, from whence a quantity of smoke
                     ascended. The sea coast near it was covered with innumerable columnar forms, of
                     a considerable height, which we distinguished by the help of our glasses. Some
                     of them stood remote from each other, but far the greater part were place in
                     close, and seemingly compact, groups. The nature of the pillars of Basaltes,
                     which are found in many parts of the world<ref target="#edn256">
                        <note xml:id="edn256" anchored="true"> Near <placeName>Assuan</placeName>,
                           or <placeName>Syene</placeName>, in <placeName>Upper Egypt</placeName>.;
                           at <placeName>Bolsena</placeName> in <placeName>Italy</placeName>; near
                              <placeName>Hadiè</placeName> in <placeName>Arabia Felix</placeName>;
                           at <placeName>Hildesheim</placeName>, <placeName>Stolpen</placeName>, and
                              <placeName>Yauer</placeName>, in different parts of
                              <placeName>Germany</placeName>; in the <placeName>Hebrides</placeName>
                           of <placeName>Scotland</placeName>; and in the county of
                              <placeName>Antrim</placeName> in <placeName>Ireland</placeName>.
                        </note>
                     </ref>, gave us some reason to look upon these extraordinary appearances as so
                     many colonnades of Basaltes; and having so lately seen several volcanoes in the
                     neighbourhood, and one so near as <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, we were greatly
                     strengthened in this opinion, it being asserted by the most judicious and
                     experienced mineralogists, that basaltes is a volcanic production. In the
                     evening, having left <placeName>Cape Coronation</placeName> astern, we
                     discerned a vast quantity of these columnar forms projecting into the sea, on a
                     flat point.</p>

                  <p n="851">Early on the 24th, we came in sight of a cape which terminated
                        <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> to the east; it was rather steep, but
                     of no great height, and perfectly level at the top to a considerable distance.
                     A number of pillars stood upon it, which something invalidated the opinion of
                     their being basalt-columns. This cape, which <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     named <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Foreland</placeName>, lies in <geo select="lat">22° 15' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">167° 15' E.</geo> In the
                     evening, towards <time>six o'clock</time>, another island was discovered far to
                     the south-east from the mast-head, and the next morning several small islands
                     appeared between <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> and this new discovery,
                     which the instability of the wind would not permit us to examine. We observed,
                     however, that a great reef enclosed these islands, which seemed entirely to
                     preclude a passage, and obliged us to stand on to the eastward, in order to
                     weather all the distant land in sight. This part of our cruize was extremely
                     disagreeable and tantalizing; we longed to have an opportunity of examining the
                     country, and were at present in great distress for fresh food. A scanty portion
                     of yams remained, which were eaten as dainties at the officers tables; but the
                     crew had not tasted any refreshments since our departure from
                        <placeName>Namoka</placeName>. The appearance of new lands made but little
                     amends for the involuntary fast which we kept, and only supported our hopes of
                     making some fortunate discovery, which might perhaps offer us fresh
                     supplies.</p>

                  <p n="852">We did not obtain a settled breeze till the 26th in the evening, when
                     we immediately began to ply to windward, in order to double the large island
                     before us. It consisted of a mountain of less elevation than <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>, and easy of ascent, every where surrounded by flat
                     land, on which the columnar bodies were innumerable. As we made several trips
                     within two miles in-shore, we were at last convinced that they were nothing
                     else than trees, which on a prodigious tall stem had short and slender
                     branches, not discernible at a distance.33</p>

                  <p n="853">We doubled the eastermost extremity of this island, and of its reefs,
                     on the 28th, at day-break, and then bore away along its south-east shore.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> gave it the name of <placeName>Isle of
                        Pines</placeName>, suspecting the columnar trees upon it to be of that kind.
                     It seems to be about eighteen leagues in circumference, and the middle is
                     situated in <geo select="lat" n="1">22° 40' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="1">167° 40' E.</geo> The south-east wind, which had now set in very
                     fresh, cooled the air so much in this latitude, that the thermometer sunk to
                     68°, which caused a disagreeable sensation to our bodies, long used to a warmer
                     climate. <date>[Thursday 29.]</date>The next day we found a passage between
                     several reefs, and came to an anchor off a little island, not above two miles
                     in circuit, which was covered with tall columnar trees, though it was intirely
                     flat and sandy. The south end of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName> was not
                     above six leagues distant from hence, and the southern coast of that island
                     seemed to run nearly parallel to the northern, giving the whole a long, narrow
                     shape. This south point, which was called the <placeName>Prince of Wales's
                        Foreland</placeName>, lies in <geo select="lat" n="2">22° 30' S.</geo> and
                        <geo select="lon" n="2">166° 58' E.</geo>
                  </p>

                  <p n="854">We hoisted a boat out immediately, and rowed to the little islet, which
                     was about a mile and a half from us. It was surrounded with a small reef of its
                     own, in which we found a narrow passage, containing many rocks, notwithstanding
                     which we landed with safety. The tall trees immediately demanded our first
                     attention, and we found that they belonged to the genus of cypresses. They were
                     remarkably strait, and at least ninety or a hundred feet high. Their branches
                     grew round the stem, forming little tufts, but seldom exceeded the length of
                     ten feet, and were very slender in proportion. A variety of other trees and
                     shrubs grew up between them, and rendered this little spot the resort of a
                     great number of birds. We saw here also some scurvy-grass, and another plant
                        (<hi rend="italics">tetragonia</hi>), which we commonly made use of at
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> in our soups. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> returned to the ship with us, after this discovery,
                     intending to land again after dinner, in order to cut down some of the trees,
                     and to collect some greens. We met with a variety of plants in the afternoon,
                     which quite surprised us, on such a confined spot. We also saw some fire-places
                     on its sandy shores, on which lay the remains of several turtles, which had
                     probably afforded a delicious repast to some of the natives. A species of hawk
                     was shot, which proved to be the common <hi rend="italics">falco
                        haliaëtos</hi>, or osprey<ref target="#edn257">
                        <note xml:id="edn257" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Pennant's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">British Zoology</hi>.34 </note>
                     </ref>; a kind of fly-catcher likewise fell into our hands, which was not known
                     before; but besides this we saw several large beautiful pigeons, which we could
                     not shoot. Flat-tailed water-snakes (<hi rend="italics">anguis platura</hi>)
                     were likewise numerous upon the island. The cypress-trees were found to be
                     exceeding good timber, and the younger ones were very elastic, and fit for
                     studding sail-booms. After rambling about this little spot till near sun-set,
                     we all returned on board, and at day-light the next morning, <date>[Friday
                        30.]</date>weighed the anchor, and sailed slowly on to clear the reefs.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> gave this little islet the name of
                        <placeName>Botany Island</placeName>, because it contained in so small a
                     space a <hi rend="italics">flora</hi> of near thirty species, among which we
                     saw several new ones. Its situation is nearly <geo select="lat">22° 28'
                        S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">167° 16' E.</geo> Its soil is very sandy on
                     the shores, but in the interior part mixed with vegetable earth, from the trees
                     and plants which continually decay on it, without being cleared away by human
                     industry. Whilst we lay at anchor, the first lieutenant caught a fish, exactly
                     of the same species with that which poisoned <persName>captain Cook</persName>,
                     my father, and myself. He ordered it to be cleaned and boiled, in spite of the
                     earnest representations of all his messmates, who warned him against its
                     pernicious effects. It was at last set before him, by his positive orders, and
                     his friends found no other means to save him, than to ridicule his mad design.
                     Their humorous and satirical remarks had a better effect than friendly
                     admonitions, and he desisted from the attempt. A little dog was, however,
                     unfortunate enough to eat of the entrails of the fish, and lay several days in
                     such exquisite torments, that it was at last thrown overboard, to put an end to
                     its pain and misery. This circumstance proves to what great distresses we were
                     now driven for want of fresh food, since even the risk of being poisoned was
                     made light of, for the sake of a single meal. All our officers, who had made
                     several voyages round the world, and experienced a multiplicity of hardships,
                     acknowledged at present, that all their former sufferings were not to be
                     compared to those of the present voyage, and that they had never before so
                     thoroughly loathed a salt diet. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> had made a
                     provision of dried hams for the voyage, which by length of time were much
                     corrupted; all the fat being converted into a rancid oil, and the salt having
                     filled the flesh with a quantity of alkaline concretions like tartar. However,
                     as often as this putrid and loathsome meat was carried to table, which happened
                     once a week, the petty officers devoured it with wistful looks, and spoke of
                     our good fortune so feelingly, that it would have given pain to a savage. It
                     was owing to our having such an excellent preservative as sour-krout on board,
                     that the scurvy did not at this time make any considerable progress amongst us;
                     but our situation was indeed wretched enough, without the additional horrors of
                     disease.</p>

                  <p n="855">We were becalmed in the evening among the reefs, which surrounded us on
                     all sides, and made our situation dangerous, on account of the tides and
                     currents, as well as for want of anchoring-ground, having sounded in vain with
                     a line of 150 fathoms. At <time>half past seven o'clock</time> we saw a ball of
                     fire to the northward, in size and splendor resembling the sun, though somewhat
                     paler. It burst a few moments after, and left behind it several bright sparks,
                     of which the largest, of an oblong shape, moved quickly out of our horizon,
                     whilst a kind of bluish flame followed, and marked its course. Some heard a
                     hissing noise, which accompanied the swift descent of this meteor. Our
                     shipmates expected a fresh gale after its appearance, having frequently
                     observed the same to ensue upon similar occasions. And in fact, whatever may be
                     the relation between this phӕnomenon, and the motion of the atmosphere, or
                     whether it was accident, their predictions were verified the same night. A
                     brisk gale sprung up, which settled at south, <date>[1774. October.][Saturday
                        1.]</date>the next morning, and permitted us to direct our course E. by S.
                     and S. S. E. from <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>. This island, the
                     largest hitherto discovered in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName> between
                     the tropics, remains entirely unexplored on its south side. The direction and
                     outline of its northern coast, was sketched out during the short time which we
                     could afford to spend on this valuable discovery; but its animals, vegetables,
                     and minerals still remain untouched, and offer an ample field to the
                     naturalist. The appearance of cypress-trees on the eastern part, seems to prove
                     that the nature of the soil, and the mineral productions are totally different
                     in that part, from those of <placeName>Balladd</placeName>, of which we had a
                     cursory view; and from what we saw on the little sandy <placeName>Botany
                        Island</placeName>, a distinct set of plants must there cover the ground,
                     and various unknown birds inhabit the woods. Thus it still remains for future
                     navigators, to continue our discoveries in the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>, and to take more time in investigating their productions.
                     Several parts of the <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName> are still untouched
                     by former tracks; for instance, the space between 10° S. and the line, across
                     the whole ocean, from <placeName>America</placeName> to <placeName>New
                        Britain</placeName>; the space between <geo select="lat">10° S.</geo> and
                        <geo select="lat">14° S.</geo>35 included between the meridian of <geo select="lon">140°</geo> and <geo select="lon">160° W.</geo> the space
                     included between the parallels of <geo select="lat">30°</geo> and <geo select="lat">20° S.</geo> and the meridian of <geo select="lon">140°</geo>
                     and <geo select="lon">175° w</geo>est; the space between the southernmost of
                     the <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>, and <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>, and that between <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>
                     and <placeName>New Holland</placeName>. <persName>M. de Surville's</persName>
                     track, which I have mentioned vol. I. p. 238, is the only one which lies
                     between these two countries. But <placeName>New Guinea</placeName>,
                        <placeName>New Britain</placeName> and all the lands in that neighbourhood,
                     obviously require to be more minutely examined, and would doubtless reward the
                     navigator by a world of new and important discoveries. All these districts of
                     the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> being searched, the northern part of the
                     same sea will require several voyages before it can be thoroughly explored.</p>

                  <p n="856">
                     <date>[Sunday 2.]</date>It fell calm again on the 2d in the forenoon, and
                     several sharks appearing about the ship, one of them was caught, and divided
                     instantly among the whole ship's company. We had our share of it, which the
                     keen sauce of hunger made very delicious to our palate, though it was in fact
                     very oily. We soon recovered a westerly breeze, which permitted us to go to the
                     S. S. E. after crossing the tropic of capricorn.</p>
                  <!-- AN April 7: Another instance of '26' written as '26th' in the below paragraph. -->
                  <p n="857">
                     <date>[Wednesday 5.]</date>On the fifth in the afternoon, we had sight of two
                     albatrosses again, being between the <geo select="lat">26th and 27th degree of
                        s</geo>outh latitude. The calm which happened the day after, permitted our
                     officers to go out in a boat, in order to shoot some birds; but after toiling
                     the whole day, they brought on board only four, of which two were petrels, and
                     two albatrosses. We were now once more on the confines of the easterly
                     trade-wind, which so near the solstice became variable as soon as we had passed
                     the tropic. On the 7th in the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze with which we
                     sailed between the south and west; <persName>captain Cook</persName> being
                     desirous to fall in with the west coast of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>
                     in order to escape the same difficulties which we had experienced the year
                     before in going into <placeName>Cook's Strait</placeName>. In the evening of
                     the 8th, a numerous shoal of large porpesses passed the ship, and played about
                     it, leaping frequently out of the water. One of them was struck with an
                     harpoon, and by giving it a great deal of line, we had time to hoist a boat
                     out, and to kill it with five musket shot. It was of that species which the
                     ancients called the dolphin<ref target="#edn258">
                        <note xml:id="edn258" anchored="true">
                           <hi rend="italics">D</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">e</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">l</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">j</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">i</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">z</hi>, Aristot. <hi rend="italics">Delphinus
                              delphis</hi>, Linn. </note>
                     </ref>, and which, with the common porpess, is found in every sea. It was six
                     feet long, and its dugs were full of milk, it being a viviparous animal of the
                     class which suckle their own young. It was cut up the next morning, and the
                     meat distributed to the ship's company; its colour was not very inviting, being
                     almost black; but its taste after cutting away all the fat, was very like beef,
                     only somewhat dry. We dined on it very heartily, and were very well contented
                     with our good fortune. We saw land the same morning, which proved to be a small
                     island, of moderate elevation, wholly covered with cypress-trees, resembling
                     those we had found on <placeName>Botany Island</placeName>. We had soundings at
                     a good distance, in twenty fathom more or less, and about <time>nine
                        o'clock</time> were abreast of it. It seemed to be about two or three miles
                     long, was very steep, almost entirely covered with woods, and to appearance
                     uninhabited. Many aquatic fowls of different species were observed about it,
                     which gave us hopes of making at least a provision of another fresh meal. We
                     hastened to finish our dinner, and went on shore with <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> in two boats. Several large broken rocks project into the
                     sea from the island, on all sides. We were fortunate enough to find a little
                     cove so well sheltered by some of these rocks, that our boats lay very safe in
                     it, and were able to land without wetting a foot. A heap of large stones formed
                     a kind of beach, beyond which the shore rose very steep, and in some parts
                     perpendicular. We found a little rill which descended in a cleft between two
                     hills; and following the course of it, we penetrated into the woods with great
                     difficulty, through a thick tissue of bindweeds and climbers. However, as soon
                     as we had passed through this outward fence, we found the forest tolerably
                     clear of underwood, and had not the least difficulty to walk forwards. The
                     rocks of this island consisted of the common yellowish clayey stone, which we
                     had found at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>; and in some places we met with
                     small bits of porous reddish lava, which seemed to be decaying, but made us
                     suspect this island to have had a volcano. The vegetables which we found upon
                     it, throve with great luxuriance in a rich stratum of black mould, accumulated
                     during ages past, from decaying trees and plants. The greatest number of
                     species which we met with were well known to us, as belonging to the flora of
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, but they appeared here with all the
                     advantages which a milder climate, and an exuberant soil could give them. The
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> flag (<hi rend="italics">phormium
                        tenax</hi>), shot stalks eight or nine feet high, having flowers much
                     larger and brighter than we had seen at <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>. The productions of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>
                     were here united to those of <placeName>New Caledonia</placeName>, and the
                        <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName>; for the cypress of the one, and the
                     cabbage palm which we had seen in the latter, flourished here in the greatest
                     perfection. It was chiefly on these two species, that we bestowed our
                     attention; the former supplied the carpenter with several spare booms, and
                     pieces of timber; and the latter offered us a most welcome and palatable
                     refreshment. We cut down several of them, and took on board the central shoot,
                     or heart, which in taste more resembles an almond than a cabbage. The animal
                     creation, like the vegetable, consisted chiefly of the same species which we
                     found at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. The parrots and parroquets were
                     infinitely brighter coloured, though evidently of the same species; but the
                     pigeon was exactly the same. We found besides these, a number of small birds,
                     peculiar to this spot, some of which were very beautiful. On the beach we found
                     several succulent plants, such as a species of <hi rend="italics">tetragonia</hi>, and a <hi rend="italics">mesembryanthemum</hi>, of
                     which we gathered a quantity to boil in our soups. The melody of the birds was
                     very pleasing in this little deserted spot, which if it had been of a greater
                     size, would have been unexceptionable for an European settlement. We put off
                     from it late in the evening, and when we arrived on board, we greatly regretted
                     that we had not thought of leaving a hog of each sex, which would doubtless
                     have propagated undisturbed, and in the space of a few years stocked the
                     island, so as to become useful to future navigators. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> gave this pretty little spot, the name of <placeName>Norfolk
                        Island</placeName>; it is situated in <geo select="lat">29° 2' 30" S.</geo>
                     and <geo select="lon">168° 16' E.</geo> Whilst we had examined the woods, some
                     of the boats' crew had been no less busy in catching fish, having been
                     fortunate enough to meet with a pool, where they had come in at high water. The
                     tops of the cabbage-palm, these fish, and the birds which we had shot, afforded
                     us an excellent refreshment for a day or two. We passed the S. E. end of the
                     island the next morning, and saw a large single rock off that end. We sounded
                     repeatedly all the forenoon, and found bottom at thirty and forty fathom, to
                     the distance of eight leagues and upwards from the island. The vast number of
                     boobies, and shear-waters, which were continually catching fish about us, by
                     darting down into the sea, indicated that this was a kind of fishing-bank. At
                        <time>one o'clock in the afternoon</time>, we were out of soundings, and
                     advanced with a fresh breeze towards <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, where
                     we could expect to meet with regular refreshments after our tropical cruize,
                     which towards the latter end had greatly weakened the crew, by confining them
                     to a putrid salt-diet, and which had proved particularly fatal to the officers
                     and ourselves, by means of the poisonous fishes that unfortunately fell in our
                     way.</p>

                  <p n="858">
                     <date>[Monday 17.]</date>We made such speed, attended by flocks of pintadas,
                     petrels, and albatrosses, that we made the coast of New Zeeland on the 17th,
                     early in the morning, after having heavy dews for two nights before, which are
                     commonly reckoned signs of land. The part of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>
                     which we now fell in with, was <placeName>Mount Egmont</placeName>, that
                     prodigious peak which forms the north point of <placeName>Cook's
                        Strait</placeName> coming from the west. It appeared to be covered with snow
                     and ice nearly from the middle to the summit, of which we had only a glimpse
                     now and then, when the clouds broke which involved it. Its appearance is
                     remarkably majestic, and the neighbouring hills look like dwarfs in comparison.
                     It stands upon, or rather its base gradually flattens into an extensive plain
                     on all sides; and its summit, tapering gradually, terminates in a small point.
                     Its height is supposed to be not much inferior to the peak of
                        <placeName>Teneriff</placeName>, from the space which the snow occupies on
                     it.36</p>

                  <p n="859">The breeze, which had hitherto been moderate, now changed into a hard
                     gale, which carried us forward at the rate of eight knots an hour; and we felt
                     the air very sharp and uncomfortable, the thermometer standing at 58°. We now
                     esteemed ourselves happy to be on the west coast of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, where this gale was favourable, which on the east side
                     would have been furiously against us. <date>[Tuesday 18.]</date>The next
                     morning it hurried us past <placeName>Cape Stephens</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Admiralty Bay</placeName>, and <placeName>Point
                        Jackson</placeName>. As soon as we entered <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, it only blew in intermittent gusts, with the help of
                     which we came safely to an anchor, the third time during this voyage, in
                        <placeName>Ship Cove</placeName>, which we had left near eleven months
                     before. The sight of each well-known object, however bleak and savage its
                     appearance, conveyed a pleasing sensation, and the hope of recruiting our
                     wasted spirits and strength, inspired unusual chearfulness.</p>

                  <p n="860"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="4" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. IV.<lb/>
                     Third and last stay at <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, in
                           <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="861">
                     <date>[1774. October.][Tuesday 18.]</date>REPEATED showers, and chilling
                     squalls of wind, gave us a rough reception on the wild shores of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>. The season was not yet far advanced in this raw
                     climate, and the withered foliage of the last year, had not made room on many
                     trees for the verdure of spring. After dinner, we went on shore to examine the
                     beach where we had twice before fixed our tents during this voyage, being
                     desirous of seeing what was become of the bottle which contained a letter to
                        <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>. Before we landed we took notice of a
                     small flock of shags, which had built their nests on some trees hanging over
                     the water; a sign that the cove had not lately been visited by men. Indeed we
                     have reason to suppose that the natives dwell in the interior recesses of the
                     bay during winter, those parts being probably resorted to by the fish at that
                     inhospitable season. After dislodging the shags, and killing some of their
                     young, which, though fledged, were yet too stupid to fly away, we landed, and
                     were presently convinced that an European ship had visited this place after our
                     departure in November last. Many trees which we had left standing were cut down
                     with saws and other tools unknown to the natives; the bottle was removed, and
                     other indubitable vestiges of the new visitation remained. The plantations
                     which we had formerly made were almost entirely destroyed, being partly rooted
                     out, and partly stifled by the indigenous weeds, which grew luxuriantly in the
                     soil after it had been turned up. Our sailors dragged a net several times, but
                     to no purpose; however, we were somewhat more successful after our return to
                     the ship, where several fish were caught with the hook and line. Amongst
                     others, a fine sea-bream (<hi rend="italics">sparus pagrus</hi>), weighing
                     eleven pounds, was taken, it being one of those species which are to be met
                     with in almost every ocean<ref target="#edn259">
                        <note xml:id="edn259" anchored="true"> It is caught on the coasts of
                              <placeName>England</placeName>, in the
                              <placeName>Mediterranean</placeName>, at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                              Hope</placeName>, and in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>.
                        </note>
                     </ref>. About sunset a cannon was fired, with a view to apprize the natives of
                     our arrival, if any of them happened to be within hearing. It was our interest
                     to have them near us, in order to supply us with fish, which our sailors were
                     not expert enough to catch in any quantity, supposing we could have dispensed
                     with their labours in repairing the rigging, &amp;c.</p>

                  <p n="862">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 19.]</date>At day-break all our people began to warp the ship
                     deeper into the cove, and about <time>nine o'clock</time> they had brought her
                     into a convenient situation very near the shore. We profited by an interval of
                     fair weather, in order to visit the beach, where we once more pitched our
                     tents. The last year's generation of birds, unacquainted with the treacherous
                     arms of Europeans, sat patiently till we came near enough not to run the risk
                     of missing them; and thus we not only recruited our collection, but likewise
                     provided a delicious refreshment. The creepers in particular, and several
                     smaller species, were to the full as grateful to the palate as ortolans; and
                     every land-bird of this part of <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, hawks
                     excepted, would have been relished at the most luxurious tables.</p>

                  <p n="863">In the afternoon we accompanied <persName>captain Cook</persName> to
                        <placeName>Canibal Cove</placeName>, the next to the northward of our
                     anchoring-place. The shores of this cove we knew to be rich in celery and
                     scurvy-grass, which it was the captain's constant care to provide for his crew,
                     wherever they were to be had. In our rambles through the woods at this place we
                     found a true cabbage-palm (<hi rend="italics">areca oleracea</hi>), of the
                     same sort which we had seen at <placeName>Norfolk Island</placeName>. Its
                     situation in this high latitude was somewhat surprising, and seems to prove
                     that this species is of a more hardy nature than the rest in the same class. We
                     returned on board with a rich load of greens, very acceptable to all our
                     shipmates, but eyed with peculiar pleasure by all those who had been poisoned,
                     and who hoped, by the use of this wholesome diet, to be restored to health and
                     strength, which they had never enjoyed since that unfortunate event. Another
                     cannon was fired in the evening, as no natives had hitherto made their
                     appearance.1</p>

                  <p n="864">The next day we experienced dreadful gales, which coming over the bleak
                     and snow-capt alps to the south of us, chilled the air most uncomfortably, and
                     at last brought on heavy rains. The wind abated the day following, but showers
                     and thick fogs continued till the evening. A N. W. wind then springing up,
                     chased the clouds from the mountains, &amp;c. <date>[Saturday 22.]</date>The
                     sun arose in all his splendor the next morning; the choir of feathered
                     songsters was heard on all sides for the first time since our arrival,
                     announcing a mild vernal day, and summoned us into the woods. Many of our
                     officers immediately embraced this opportunity of recreation, and we
                     accompanied <persName>captain Cook</persName> in a boat, coasting the shores
                     towards <placeName>Point Jackson</placeName>, and landing from time to time in
                     the different coves on our way. The afternoon was spent in an excursion to the
                        <placeName>Hippah-rock</placeName>, on which we made a fire to allure the
                     natives, being very desirous of their company. We likewise visited the
                     cabbage-garden on <placeName>Motu-Aro</placeName>, and found the plants shot
                     into seed, which had been for the greatest part consumed by the birds. In the
                     evening all the sportsmen returned loaded with birds; the different boats'
                     crews had collected fresh supplies of greens, and the rest had caught fish
                     during the fair weather. All these successes contributed to make a kind of
                     general festival in the ship, which the levity of the mariners rendered the
                     more chearful, as every past discomfort was already forgotten.</p>

                  <p n="865">Having waited in vain another day for the appearance of the natives, we
                     resolved to go in quest of them into the southern creeks on the 24th.
                        <date>[Monday 24.]</date>That morning, however, at day-break, two canoes
                     appeared off the point of <placeName>Shag Cove</placeName> with their sails
                     set; but they were no sooner in sight of the ship, than the sail was instantly
                     let down, and the people betook themselves to paddling very fast back again.
                     Their reserve only made us more desirous to have some intercourse with them, as
                     it appeared to be a mark of fear or distrust. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>
                     set out in his boat with us, and we came into <placeName>Shag Cove</placeName>,
                     where we passed some time shooting shags and sea-pies, of which we found great
                     numbers. At last, however, we heard some shouts on the south shore of the cove,
                     and coming towards that part, discerned several natives who had retired to the
                     upper part of the hills, whilst only three or four remained below on a rising,
                     where several huts were concealed in the woods. Here we found their canoes
                     hauled on the beach, and immediately landing, made signs for these people to
                     come to us. They hesitated a little; then one descended, and having joined
                     noses with us, the usual sign of friendship, the rest came down, and those who
                     had ascended the higher parts likewise joined us. They were all dressed in
                     shaggy cloaks, which were old and ragged; their hair hung about their heads in
                     disorder, and filth and stench announced them even at a distance. We did not
                     remember to have seen above three or four of them at our former stay in this
                     sound; but having learnt their names, enquired concerning many of their
                     countrymen who were better known to us. They gave us an answer which was
                     infinitely too complex to be intelligible to us; but we could collect that they
                     spoke of a battle, and mentioned the death of several of the natives. They
                     continued from time to time to ask if we were displeased with them, and seemed
                     to be very apprehensive that our present protestations of friendship were not
                     quite sincere. We suspected from this circumstance, that a fatal
                     misunderstanding had happened between the natives and the crew of some European
                     ship, and we naturally thought of our consort the Adventure. However, far from
                     confirming the natives in their fears, we endeavoured by every method to gain
                     their confidence, in which we succeeded very well, by waving the subject of our
                     discourse, and asking if they had any fish to sell. They ran to their canoes
                     immediately, and clearing away the mats with which they were covered, produced
                     a vast quantity of fish, probably caught the same morning. For a few pieces of
                     Taheitian cloth,2 a nail, some medals, and a bit of red baize, we bought a
                     sufficient quantity to supply our whole ship's company, and so far gained the
                     confidence of the natives, that they promised to come to the ship the next day.
                     One of them, of a middle age, who seemed to be the principal man in this small
                     village, told us his name was <persName>Peeterrè</persName>, and shewed himself
                     the friendliest of them all. We parted from them, after admiring their bold
                     spirit, which disdained concealment, at the moment when they were filled with
                     apprehensions that we should take advantage of our superiority of numbers. We
                     were indeed ignorant at that time how much reason they had to dread our
                     resentment, a circumstance which gives still greater lustre to their
                     bravery.</p>

                  <p n="866">
                     <date>[Tuesday 25.]</date>They were indeed as good as their word, and came to
                     us at sun-rise the next morning, in five canoes, selling a great quantity of
                     fine fish, and thus restoring affluence on our tables. Having parted with their
                     fish, they produced a number of pieces of green nephritic stone, wrought into
                     chissels and various ornaments, which they eagerly exchanged for Taheitian and
                     English cloth, as well as iron ware. Not content with what they could collect
                     on board, some of them went to the beach, where a number of our people were
                     employed in watering, wooding, &amp;c. and where <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>
                     had once more fixed his observatory. Here they made many acquisitions, and then
                     all went to pass the night on a neighbouring beach. They rose at day-break, and
                     caught abundance of fish, with which they returned to us, continuing to supply
                     us every day in the same manner. Their favourite place of resort was, however,
                     our watering-place; for there they met with several marines, who took a
                     pleasure in conversing with them, as well as they could, for hours together. It
                     appears this kind of familiar intercourse suited their disposition, for they
                     soon became so intimate as to impart to their new friends a tale, of which the
                     particulars were of the utmost importance to us. They related, that an European
                     vessel had put into the harbour some time ago; but that in a quarrel with the
                     inhabitants, all her people had been killed and eaten. This intelligence
                     alarmed us greatly, as we apprehended that this vessel was most probably the
                     Adventure. The natives were repeatedly questioned, and in every conversation we
                     discovered some additional circumstances, by which the fact was more clearly
                     established. At last, however, observing that our enquiries on this subject
                     were frequently repeated, they resolved to give us no farther information, and
                     by threats stopped short one of their own brethren, who had been prevailed upon
                     to speak once more on the subject. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> being very
                     desirous of obtaining some certainty concerning the fate of the Adventure,
                     called <persName>Peeterrè</persName> and another native into the cabin, both of
                     whom denied that any harm had been done to the Europeans. We made two pieces of
                     paper, to represent the two ships, and drew the figure of the Sound on a larger
                     piece; then drawing the two ships into the Sound, and out of it again, as often
                     as they had touched at and left it, including our last departure, we stopped a
                     while, and at last proceeded to bring our ship in again: but the natives
                     interrupted us, and taking up the paper which represented the Adventure, they
                     brought it into the harbour, and drew it out again, counting on their fingers
                     how many moons she had been gone. This circumstance gave us two-fold pleasure,
                     since at the same time that we were persuaded our consort had safely sailed
                     from hence, we had room to admire the sagacity of the natives. Still, however,
                     there was something mysterious in the former accounts, which intimated that
                     some Europeans were killed; and we continued to doubt whether we had rightly
                     understood this part of their conversation, till we received more certain
                     intelligence at our return to the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>.
                     Here we learnt that our consort had lost a boat with ten men at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>. Some account of this melancholy event will, I hope, not
                     be unwelcome to my readers, as I shall occasionally compare the story of the
                     natives with the reports of our fellow-voyagers.3 It appears that
                        <persName>captain Furneaux</persName>, after separating from us, was
                     obliged, on the 9th of November 1773, to put into <placeName>Tolaga Bay<ref target="#edn260">
                           <note xml:id="edn260" anchored="true"> See the chart of <placeName>New
                                 Zeeland</placeName>, in <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, on the northern <placeName>isle of New Zeeland</placeName>, where
                     he lay till the 16th. He then sailed towards <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, where he arrived on the 30th, a few days after our
                     departure. <persName>O-Maï</persName>, the native of
                        <placeName>Raietea</placeName>, whom he had on board, told me he was the
                     first who found the inscription on the tree, under which our bottle was buried.
                     He pointed it out to the captain, and the bottle with the letter was
                     immediately found. In consequence of this, <persName>captain
                        Furneaux</persName> made all the necessary preparations for the remaining
                     part of his voyage, in as little time as possible. His ship the Adventure was
                     ready to sail, when he sent a boat to <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>, on the
                     eastern shore of the <placeName>Sound</placeName>, in order to gather a load of
                     celery and scurvy-grass for the crew. <persName>Mr. Rowe</persName>, the
                     unfortunate youth who had the command of this boat, combined with many liberal
                     sentiments the prejudices of a naval education, which induced him to look upon
                     all the natives of the <placeName>South Sea</placeName> with contempt, and to
                     assume that kind of right over them, with which the Spaniards, in more
                     barbarous ages, disposed of the lives of the American Indians. After landing in
                        <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>, his people began to cut greens, and some
                     in all probability stripped off their cloaths, to perform their task with
                     greater ease; for the accounts which we obtained from the natives at
                        <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName> import, that one of their
                     countrymen stole a sailor's jacket; that our people had hereupon immediately
                     begun to fire, and continued to do so till all their ammunition was spent; that
                     the natives had taken this opportunity to rush upon the Europeans, and had
                     killed every one of them. This relation is very reconcileable with the opinion
                     which the late <persName>Mr. Rowe</persName> always entertained of the
                        <placeName>New Zeelanders</placeName>, viz. that they would never stand the
                     fire of European musketry. He had before, when at <placeName>Tolaga
                        Bay</placeName>, been exceeding desirous of firing upon them, for having
                     stolen a small keg of brandy from the boat's crew; but the judicious and humane
                     advice of lieutenant Burney checked his impetuosity. Captain Furneaux finding
                     that his boat did not return the next day, sent <persName>Mr. Burney</persName>
                     in another boat, well armed, to look after the former. They soon reached the
                     entrance of <placeName>East Bay</placeName>, where they observed a canoe
                     containing many natives, who at sight of them paddled away as fast as possible.
                     Our people made after them, but the fear of being taken made the natives jump
                     overboard, and swim to the shore. This behaviour alarmed <persName>Mr.
                        Burney</persName>, and his apprehensions were but too fully verified when he
                     came up with the canoe. Here they found several mangled limbs of their
                     comrades, and some of their cloaths. After rowing about some time, they came to
                        <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>, towards seven in the evening, where they
                     saw a considerable number of the natives assembled, who seemed prepared to
                     oppose them. The whole hill to the top was covered with crouds of people, as in
                     a fair, and smokes ascended in several places, where they were probably
                     dressing human flesh. Horror chilled the sailors blood in their veins, but the
                     next moment they glowed with the fierce ardour of revenge, and cooler reason
                     was obliged to give way to the powerful impulse. They fired and killed several
                     of the natives, driving them at last, but with great difficulty, from the
                     beach, and destroying a great number of canoes, which they found hauled on
                     shore. They then landed, and searched the huts, where they found many other
                     limbs of their friends packed into baskets, and particularly a hand, which they
                     knew to be that of the unfortunate <persName>Mr. Rowe</persName>. <persName>Mr.
                        Burney</persName> is of opinion, that the boat had been beaten to pieces by
                     the natives, for the sake of the iron, as he only met with some detached parts
                     of it. It is not unlikely that the unhappy people who were thus cut off, did
                     not take sufficient care to keep their boat afloat, but suffered the tide to
                     leave it dry upon the rocks, by which means they made their retreat
                     impracticable afterwards. <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName> having suffered
                     this heavy loss, more heavy to him, as <persName>Mr. Rowe</persName> was his
                     relation, set sail from <placeName>Queen Charlotte Sound</placeName> on the 22d
                     of December, and passed round <placeName>Cape Horn</placeName>, touching at no
                     port, nor seeing any land, till he arrived at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>, on the 19th of March 1774; from whence he returned to
                        <placeName>England</placeName>, anchoring at <placeName>Spithead</placeName>
                     on the 15th of July following, at the time when we were near the <placeName>New
                        Hebrides</placeName> in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="867">The <placeName>New Zeelanders</placeName> have been dangerous enemies
                     to all the nations who have visited them. The first discoverer, <persName>Abel
                        Jansan Tasman</persName>, a Dutch navigator, lost four of his people, in an
                     anchoring place, which he named <placeName>Murderers Bay</placeName>, and which
                     seems to be the same with <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     <placeName>Blind Bay</placeName>. The natives took one of the dead bodies into
                     the canoe with them, and had therefore doubtless tasted the flesh of an
                     European, so early as the year 1642<ref target="#edn261">
                        <note xml:id="edn261" anchored="true"> See <persName>M.
                              Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Collection</hi>, vol. II. p. 72. </note>
                     </ref>. By killing ten persons of the Adventure's crew, they have been still
                     more pernicious to the English, and by murdering <persName>M. Dufresne
                        Marion</persName>, with twenty-eight men, they have treated the French more
                     roughly than all the rest.4 <persName>M. Crozet</persName>, captain of a
                     fire-ship, in the French navy, happening to be at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>, on his way to <placeName>India</placeName>, at the time of
                     our return to that settlement, gave us an account of the melancholy fate of his
                     countrymen. He commanded the king's sloop of Mascarin, under <persName>M.
                        Marion</persName>, and put into the <placeName>Bay of Islands</placeName>,
                     on the northern island of <placeName>New Zeeland<ref target="#edn262">
                           <note xml:id="edn262" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 112, where I have
                              mentioned the discoveries of that voyage, previous to <persName>M.
                                 Marion's</persName> arrival at <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName> in great distress. He was obliged, having lost his masts, to look
                     out for new ones in the woods of this country; but when he had found trees fit
                     for his purpose, it appeared almost impossible to bring them from the hills to
                     the water side. However, necessity at last obliged them to make a road two or
                     three miles long, through the thickest forests, to the place where he met with
                     the best trees. A party of his people were in the mean while placed on an
                     island in the bay, to fill the casks with water, and another party occasionally
                     went on shore to cut wood for the ship's use. They had lain here thirty-three5
                     days, upon the best terms with the natives, who freely offered their women to
                     the sailors, when <persName>M. Marion</persName> went on shore with several
                     people, to visit the different parties who were at work, without leaving word
                     that he intended to come back to the ship the same day. His first visit to the
                     waterers being performed, he went to the <placeName>Hippah</placeName>, or
                     fortification of the natives, where he commonly used to call in his way to the
                     carpenters, who were encamped in the woods with <persName>M. Crozet</persName>.
                     Here however, it seems he was cut off, with his company, and boat's crew. The
                     next morning, the lieutenant, who commanded on board, not knowing what had
                     happened, sent a party to cut wood within the neck of land, which may be seen
                     in <persName>captain Cook's</persName> draught of this bay<ref target="#edn263">
                        <note xml:id="edn263" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 323. </note>
                     </ref>. A party of the natives waited the opportunity when every one was at
                     work to fall upon the French, and killed them all, except a single sailor who
                     ran over the isthmus, and threw himself into the sea, in order to swim towards
                     the ships, though he was wounded by several spears. He called out at last, and
                     being taken on board, gave the general alarm. <persName>M. Crozet's</persName>
                     situation in the woods with a small party, was the most critical. A corporal
                     and four marines were immediately dispatched, to acquaint him of his danger,
                     while several boats attended to receive his party, at a place where the sick
                     had been lodged in tents for the recovery of their health. He disposed every
                     thing as well as the time would permit, and effected his retreat to the
                     sea-side. Here however, he found a prodigious croud of the natives assembled,
                     drest out in their best habits, with several chiefs at their head. <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName>, told the four marines, to be ready in case he found it
                     necessary, to fire at such persons as he should point out. He gave orders to
                     his party to strike the tents of the sick, to embark all their tools and
                     apparatus, and to retire into the boat, whilst he with the soldiers walked up
                     to the chief. This man immediately told him, that <persName>M.
                        Marion</persName> was killed by another chief whom he named. <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName> took up a stake, and forcing it into the ground, just
                     before the feet of the chief, bid him advance no further. The violence of the
                     action startled the savage, whose irresolution <persName>M. Crozet</persName>
                     observing, insisted on his commanding the croud to sit down, which was
                     accordingly complied with. He now walked up and down before the New Zeelanders,
                     till all his men were in the boat; his soldiers were ordered to follow, and
                     himself was the last who embarked. He had scarce put off, when the whole body
                     of New Zeelanders rose, began their song of defiance, and threw stones after
                     him; however, by the timely exertion of his people, they all came safe on
                     board. The New Zeelanders from this time forward, made several attempts to cut
                     him off. They made an expedition against the watering-party at night, which,
                     but for the vigilance of the French, would have been fatal to them; and they
                     likewise attacked the ships in more than a hundred large canoes full of men,
                     who felt the effects of European artillery. At last <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName>, seeing it impossible to supply the ships with masts,
                     unless he could drive the natives from this neighbourhood, went to attack their
                     hippah, which was one of the greatest and strongest. He put the carpenters in
                     the front, to cut down the pallisadoes, behind which the natives stood in great
                     numbers on the fighting stages, described in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> former voyage<ref target="#edn264">
                        <note xml:id="edn264" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 342, 344. </note>
                     </ref>. His people drove the natives from these stages by keeping up a regular
                     fire, which did some execution. The carpenters could now approach without
                     danger, and in a few moments cut a breach in the fortification. A chief
                     instantly stepped into it with a long spear in his hand. He was shot dead by
                        <persName>M. Crozet's</persName> marksmen, and presently another occupied
                     his place, stepping on the dead body. He likewise fell a victim to his intrepid
                     courage, and in the same manner eight chiefs successively defended, and bravely
                     fell on this post of honour. The rest seeing their leaders dead, took flight,
                     and the French pursued and killed numbers of them. <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName> offered fifty dollars to any person who should take a New
                     Zeelander alive, but this was absolutely impracticable. A soldier seized an old
                     man, and began to drag him towards his captain, but the savage being unarmed,
                     bit into the fleshy part of the Frenchman's hand, of which the exquisite pain
                     so enraged him, that he ran the New Zeelander through with the bayonet.
                        <persName>M. Crozet</persName> found great quantities of dresses, arms,
                     tools, and raw flax in this hippah, together with a prodigious store of dried
                     fish, and roots, which seemed to be intended for winter provision. He completed
                     the repairs in his ship without interruption, after accomplishing this
                     enterprize, and prosecuted his voyage after a stay of sixty-four days in the
                        <placeName>Bay of Islands</placeName>.6</p>

                  <p n="868">The character of the New Zeelanders would appear to no great advantage
                     in this transaction with the French, if we supposed that nothing passed
                     previous to the massacre to rouze their indignation. But the whole tenour of
                     their behaviour to Europeans, seems to acquit them of treachery and cruel
                     malevolence. It is therefore greatly to be suspected that they took umbrage at
                     some affront, perhaps unwittingly committed by the strangers, and revenged it
                     with that passionate fury which hurries on the savage into excesses.7 We had no
                     reason to doubt the veracity of the people at <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, since they accused their own countrymen of theft; but it
                     plainly appears from these instances, that the rash action of revenging this
                     theft with death, and most probably revenging it indiscriminately on a whole
                     body of natives, must have provoked them to retaliate. Born to live our stated
                     time on this globe, every one who puts a premature period to our existence
                     here, offends the laws of the Creator. The passions are wisely implanted in our
                     breast for our preservation; and revenge, in particular, guards us against the
                     encroachments of others. Savages do not give up the right of retaliating
                     injuries; but civilized societies confer on certain individuals the power and
                     the duty to revenge their wrongs. Still, even in the most polished countries of
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, this method of administring justice is not
                     sufficient in all cases. Such is the imperfection of human institutions, that
                     the public avenger of wrongs oft lifts his hand against the sacred rights of
                     the whole community. On that occasion all civil agreements are dissolved, every
                     man assumes his rights, and give free course to the passions. Even in private
                     life there are occasions where this sacred principle of revenge is of infinite
                     service in the best regulated community. Nothing is more common than
                     oppressions, affronts, and injuries against which the law provides no remedy;
                     nothing more frequent, than that a set men are powerful enough to wrest the
                     laws to the disadvantage of the wretched and friendless. These instances would
                     be still more numerous, and be carried to the most detestable pitch of tyranny,
                     if this dread did not with-hold them, that the injured party may resume that
                     power of redressing his wrongs, which he sees so inadequately exercised by his
                     representative. He that attempts another's property, runs the risk of being
                     killed without a trial by the person whom he robs; and the fear of the sword or
                     the cane, hath often kept villains within bounds, who are invulnerable to the
                     attacks of the law.</p>

                  <p n="869">
                     <q>
                        <l> Chi fà sua vendetta, oltra che offende</l>
                        <l> Chi l'offeso ha, da molti si difende.</l>
                        <persName>Ariosto</persName>.8</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="870">Being satisfied that the Adventure had safely sailed from
                        <placeName>Queen Charlotte's Sound</placeName>, by the signs of
                        <persName>Peeterrè</persName>,9 we took the opportunity of a fair day
                        <date>[Friday 28.]</date>to visit the innermost recesses of <placeName>West
                        Bay</placeName>, in order to be convinced, if possible, whether there was
                     any probability that the hogs and fowls, brought thither almost a year before,
                     would ever stock these wild woods with numerous breeds. We came to the spot
                     where we had left them, but saw not the least vestiges of their having been on
                     the beach, nor did it appear that any of the natives had visited this remote
                     place; from whence we have some room to hope, that the animals had retreated
                     into the thickest part of the woods. We afterwards found a few families of the
                     natives in an opposite part of the bay, who furnished us with abundance of
                     fish.</p>

                  <p n="871">
                     <date>[1774. November.][Wednesday 2.]</date>We went to <placeName>Grass
                        Cove</placeName> on the 2d of November, having had rainy and stormy weather
                     after our excursion to <placeName>West Bay</placeName>. Ignorant of the
                     dreadful tragedy which had there been acted, we landed in all the creeks
                     thereabouts, and advanced far into the country, seeing several paths which led
                     up the hills, but meeting no inhabitants. We shot here about thirty birds,
                     amongst which were a dozen pigeons, that frequented this spot on account of a
                     species of sophora-tree, of which they consumed the leaves and seeds. We
                     returned in the evening at <time>eight o'clock</time>, finding a number of
                     natives on board, who had arrived from another part of the bay. These natives
                     sold us no provisions like those who came with <persName>Peeterrè</persName>,
                     but brought dresses, arms, and other curiosities; <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> therefore absolutely prohibited all commerce with them. They
                     returned to us again the next morning, but the captain persisted in his
                     resolution of not admitting them, unless they brought us refreshments. Indeed,
                     this manner of proceeding was equally laudable and necessary; it required the
                     utmost exertion of authority, as well as the enforcement of example, to make
                     the stubborn sailor take the least step for the benefit of his own health, as
                     soon as his attention was engaged by the manufactures of the natives. It is
                     surprising to what a pitch the rage of collecting arms and utensils had risen
                     among the crew. During our stay at <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, several of our people who were sent to make brooms, with
                     the boatswain at their head, robbed the hut of a poor native of several tools,
                     and forced upon him some nails, which they thought an equivalent. Fortunately,
                     the natives found means to complain to <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and
                     the offenders were justly punished. The crew of the Endeavour were not a whit
                     more equitable or honest; they robbed the wife of <persName>Tuboraï</persName>
                     <persName>Tamaide</persName> at <placeName>Taheitee</placeName> and seemed at
                        <placeName>New Zeeland<ref target="#edn265">
                           <note xml:id="edn265" anchored="true"> See
                                 <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>, vol. II. p. 103, and 136. We may
                              likewise consult vol. III. p. 659, where an instance of barbarity is
                              recorded, similar to that mentioned in this work, vol. I. p. 282.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName> to think they had a right to the property of the natives.10 Indeed
                     their character is very uniform, and cannot well be otherwise from their manner
                     of life; and it may be observed, that their own commanders complain of the same
                     inhuman propensity to destroy the poor harmless people of the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>, which I have so frequently observed in the course of this
                        voyage<ref target="#edn266">
                        <note xml:id="edn266" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 365.11 </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="872">The embargo which was laid on the trade was the reason that all the
                     natives left us on the 4th, except a single wretched family, who had not been
                     able to catch fish during the two last days, on account of the stormy weather.
                     We found them at the <placeName>Indian Cove</placeName> feeding on insipid
                     fern-roots, for want of more nutritive food. Each of their huts contained a
                     fire, of which the smoke entirely involved them; however, by lying down close
                     to the ground, they were less incommoded by the smoke than if they had sat
                     upright. Notwithstanding the inconvenience of this situation, there were not
                     wanting several of our shipmates who readily took up with the same lodging, in
                     order to receive the caresses of the filthy female inhabitants. Perhaps it may
                     be imagined that only brutish sailors could have such groveling appetites; but
                     the imperious element, on which they are continually tossed about, seems to
                     level all distinctions. Indeed, when people habitually give full course to
                     their unbounded desires, it is not surprising that they gratify one sense at
                     the expence of all the rest. The nations whom we had lately visited in the
                        <placeName>New Hebrides</placeName>, and at <placeName>New
                        Caledonia</placeName>, having very wisely declined every indecent
                     familiarity with their guests, the most loathsome objects in a New Zeelander's
                     smoky and nasty hovel, were eagerly addressed.</p>

                  <p n="873">
                     <date>[Saturday 5.]</date>The next day was very fair, after an interval of bad
                     weather; <persName>captain Cook</persName> therefore chose to make an
                     excursion, to trace the end of the <placeName>sound</placeName>, which still
                     remained unknown We set out in a boat, and advanced a considerable way towards
                     some canoes which were fishing. At sight of us the people in them left their
                     employment, and paddled away; but as our crew rowed very briskly, we soon
                     overtook them, and enquired if they knew a passage out to sea through the
                     extremity of the <placeName>Sound</placeName>. They seemed not to understand
                     our question, but offered us some fish, which they had just caught. We
                     purchased a great quantity, and found the natives very friendly in their
                     behaviour, they having been on board the ship a few days before. Receiving no
                     intelligence from them, we rowed a great way higher, and passed an arm of the
                        <placeName>Sound</placeName> to the left, and several bays and coves on the
                     right hand. Here meeting with another canoe, which came up towards us, we asked
                     the natives concerning the outlet into the sea. They pointed out the left or
                     eastern arm, and told us that the other to the south at last ended in a bay,
                     which was every where surrounded by mountains. Upon their report we steered
                     into the eastern arm, and soon discovered a most spacious bay in it, to the
                     right of which the shores were every where lined with natives. We landed at one
                     of the most populous places, and saluted by the nose the chief and principal
                     people, who stepped forward from the rest. The chief immediately acquainted us
                     that his name was <persName>Tringo-Boohee<ref target="#edn267">
                           <note xml:id="edn267" anchored="true"> Tringho seems to be a kind of
                              title among them, being affixed to several names of their chiefs.
                           </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>.12 He was a little elderly man, but very active, lively and
                     friendly; his face was punctured all over in scrolls, by which he distinguished
                     himself from every one of his countrymen present, who were all much less
                     disfigured by this operation. The women sat in several rows before their huts,
                     and a few of them were known to us, having been on board the ship some days
                     before. They all seemed to be much better situated than the scattered families
                     in the neighbourhood of our cove; their garb was new and neat, and the features
                     of some much less disgusting than we had generally seen. Perhaps this was owing
                     to their faces being clean, without being covered with paint, soot, or other
                     dirt. The number of men encreased about us every minute, as we traded eagerly
                     for fish, which they were equally eager to sell. Our friend
                        <persName>Tringho-Bohee</persName>, however, seemed to dislike the arrival
                     of so many people, especially as the price of his fish fell, in proportion as
                     the market was better supplied. A great number of them likewise brought their
                     arms and clothes to sell, and most of them went naked, except a small piece of
                     mat girt about the loins, this day being remarkably mild, and the place
                     sheltered from all winds. After staying here about a quarter of an hour,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> reimbarked with us, which was the more
                     adviseable, as many of the natives who arrived last, brought their arms, and
                     the whole croud now amounted to two hundred and upwards, a much greater number
                     than we had suspected the sound to contain, or had ever seen assembled
                     together. We had already put off, when a sailor acquainted the captain, that he
                     had bought a bundle of fish from one of the natives, for which he had not paid
                     him. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> took the last nail which was left, and
                     calling to the native, threw it on the beach at his feet. The savage being
                     offended, or thinking himself attacked, picked up a stone, and threw it into
                     the boat with great force, but luckily without hitting any one of us. We now
                     called to him again, and pointed to the nail which we had thrown towards him.
                     As soon as he had seen, and picked it up, he laughed at his own petulance, and
                     seemed highly pleased with our conduct towards him. This circumstance, with a
                     little rashness on our part, might have become very fatal to us, or might at
                     least have involved us in a dangerous quarrel. If we had resented the affront
                     of being pelted with a stone, the whole body would have joined in the cause of
                     their countryman, and we must have fallen an easy prey to their numbers, being
                     at the distance of five or six leagues from the ship, without any hopes of
                     assistance. It was fortunate that we were not acquainted at that time with the
                     wretched fate of <persName>Mr. Rowe</persName> and his companions; else the
                     unexpected meeting with such a body of natives, would greatly have alarmed us,
                     especially as it appears probable from their situation, that they acted a
                     principal part in his massacre. When we consider the numerous opportunities
                     which we gave the natives to cut us off, by leaving our boats, walking up
                     hills, landing in their populous settlements, going among them unarmed, and the
                     like; it becomes every moment clearer to me, that their friendship is always to
                     be trusted, unless it is infringed on our part, and that accordingly they did
                     not cut off the Adventure's people without provocation. It must nevertheless be
                     acknowledged, that we were peculiarly fortunate in our excursions, which
                     Providence always guided in such a manner, that we did not fall unawares into
                     the hands of any families of the natives, with whom we had not concluded a
                     previous treaty of peace.</p>

                  <p n="874">The people at this place agreed with those to whom we had spoken in the
                     canoe, that the arm which we had entered communicated with the sea. We
                     continued our route accordingly, and observed after some turnings, that the
                     inlet ran to the northward, at the back of <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>,
                     and <placeName>East Bay</placeName>. We found in it many coves and beaches,
                     with greens, and plenty of wild fowl; the water was perfectly smooth, and the
                     mountains formed many romantic prospects, being clothed with fine forests.
                     Having advanced about three leagues from <persName>Tringo-Boohee's</persName>
                     settlement, which the natives call <placeName>Ko-Haghee-nooee</placeName>,13 we
                     began to see many shags, with a double crest, a species which always builds in
                     the vicinity of the sea. A few moments afterwards we also saw breakers at the
                     farther end of the inlet, which fully confirmed the accounts of the natives. On
                     the left, or at the back of <placeName>Grass Cove</placeName>, we saw a <hi rend="italics">hippah</hi>, built on a high rock which stood in a manner
                     insulated, on a fine spot of level land. The whole sort was surrounded with
                     many tall poles, and appeared to be in very good order. Having left it at some
                     distance, (for it lay in a kind of bay) we saw the outlet into
                        <placeName>Cook's Strait</placeName>, and found it a very narrow passage;
                     before it lay many dangerous and lofty rocks, upon which a dreadful surf broke
                     continually. In the passage, or gap itself, we had thirteen fathom of water,14
                     and observed a strong tide running past. We had a fair view from hence of the
                     northern island, and of the strait through which we were to pass into the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> for the last time. It was about <time>four
                        o'clock</time> when we made this discovery, but having the wind against us,
                     or at least very uncertain, we were obliged to return the same way we came,
                     instead of going round <placeName>cape Koamaroo</placeName>, which would have
                     saved us much time. As we knew of such a numerous tribe of natives living in
                     this neighbourhood, we did not venture to stay a night on shore; but passing
                     the <placeName>Hippah</placeName>, and <placeName>Ko-Haghee-nooee</placeName>,
                     arrived safe on board about <time>ten o'clock at night</time>, having fasted
                     the whole time, and being thoroughly fatigued with our long excursion. The new
                     channel which we had now discovered, is indicated as a bay in <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> map of the Straits, inserted in his former voyage, he
                     being at that time unacquainted with its outlet into the sea.</p>

                  <p n="875">
                     <date>[Sunday 6.]</date>The weather was rather dull the next day; however, our
                     friend <persName>Peeterrè</persName> returned with his family to visit us.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> took him into the cabin, and dressed him
                     in a shirt, stockings, breeches, and coat, as a mark of friendship for his
                     assiduity in supplying us with fish. <persName>Peeterrè</persName> seemed
                     highly delighted with his new dress, and valued himself upon being in favour
                     with us. As he was contented with these presents, he did not venture to beg for
                     any others, but behaved with great moderation. He accompanied us to
                        <placeName>Long Island</placeName>, where we passed some time in shooting,
                     and then returned on board to dinner, of which <persName>Peeterrè</persName>
                     partook with peculiar good manners, considering his education. It is scarce to
                     be doubted, that he felt the superiority of our knowledge, of our arts,
                     manufactures, and mode of living, in some degree, especially as he was always
                     remarkably in good spirits when amongst us; but notwithstanding all this, he
                     never once expressed a desire of going with us; and when we proposed it to him,
                     he declined it, preferring the wretched precarious life of his countrymen, to
                     all the advantages of which he saw us possessed. I have already mentioned in
                     another place<ref target="#edn268">
                        <note xml:id="edn268" anchored="true"> See p. 53. </note>
                     </ref>, that this way of thinking is common to all savages; and I might have
                     added, that it is not entirely obliterated among polished nations. The force of
                     habit no where appears more strikingly than in such instances, where it seems
                     alone to counterbalance the comforts of a civilized life.</p>

                  <p n="876">
                     <persName>Peeterrè</persName> returned on shore with his comrades in the
                     evening, but came to sell us fish again the next day. We frequently heard him
                     and the rest of the natives singing on shore, and were sometimes favoured with
                     a song when they visited us on board. Their music is far superior in variety to
                     that of the <placeName>Society</placeName> and <placeName>Friendly
                        Islands</placeName>; and if any nation of the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName> comes in competition with them in this respect, I should
                     apprehend it to be that of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>. The same intelligent
                     friend15 who favoured me with a specimen of the songs at
                        <placeName>Tonga-Tabboo</placeName>, (see vol. I. p. 429), has likewise
                     obligingly communicated to me another of the <placeName>New Zeeland
                        music</placeName>, which will be sufficient to give an idea of the taste of
                     the people. He did not visit the island of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>, but
                     assured me that there appeared to be some display of genius in the
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> tunes, which soared very far above the
                     wretched humming of the Taheitian, or even the four notes of the people at the
                        <placeName>Friendly Islands</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="877">[Some music notes here]</p>

                  <p n="878">Of this tune they continue to sing the two first bars till the words of
                     their song are at an end, and then they close with the last. Sometimes they
                     also sing an under-part, which is a third lower, except the two last notes,
                     which are unisons.</p>

                  <p n="879">[Some music notes here]</p>

                  <p n="880">The same gentleman likewise took notice of a kind of dirge-like
                     melancholy song, relating to the death of <persName>Tupaya</persName>. This
                     song was chiefly practised by the inhabitants round <placeName>Tolaga
                        Bay</placeName>, on the northern island, where the people seem to have had a
                     high regard for that Taheitian. There is an extreme simplicity in the words,
                     though they seem to be metrically arranged, in such a manner, as to express the
                     feelings of the mourners, by their flow movement.</p>

                  <p n="881">
                     <q>
                        <l> a#ghe#e, ma#tte( a(wha#y Tu#pa#ya(!16</l>
                        <l> Departed, dead, alas! <persName>Tupaya</persName>!</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="882">The first effusions of grief are not loquacious; the only idea to which
                     we can give utterance is that of our loss, which takes the form of a complaint.
                     Whether the simplicity of the tune is equally agreeable, or well judged, is a
                     question which I cannot pretend to determine. The connoisseurs in music must
                     acquit or condemn the New Zeelanders.</p>

                  <p n="883">
                     <q>
                        <l>[Some music notes here]</l>
                        <l> A-ghee mat-te a-whay Tu-pa-ya.,</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="884">They descend at the close from <hi rend="italics">c</hi> to the
                     octave below in a fall, resembling the sliding of a finger along the
                     finger-board on the violin. I shall now dismiss this subject with the following
                     observation, that the taste for music of the New Zeelanders, and their
                     superiority in this respect to other nations in the South Seas, are to me
                     stronger proofs, in favour of their heart, than all the idle eloquence of
                     philosophers in their cabinets can invalidate. They have violent passions; but
                     it would be absurd to assert that these only lead them to inhuman excesses.</p>

                  <p n="885">We continued to make several excursions along shore, and to the islands
                     in the <placeName>Sound</placeName>, till the 9th of November. In this interval
                     we made such additions to our botanical and zoological collections, as could
                     hardly have been expected at so early a season, and after searching the same
                     woods so many times. We collected ten or twelve species of plants, and four or
                     five sorts of birds, which we had not seen before. Our crew assiduously filled
                     all our water-casks, cut a great quantity of wood, repaired the rigging, and
                     fitted the ship once more to encounter the fury of southern gales. The quantity
                     of fish which the natives daily brought for sale, allowed us to salt so many as
                     to fill several casks with them, which served as a sea-stock during our passage
                     to <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, kept extremely well, and were very
                     palatable to most people. The latter part of our stay was likewise employed in
                     laying in an ample provision of shags, cormorants, and such other birds as we
                     could find, in order that we might prolong as much as possible the term of
                     living on fresh food.</p>

                  <p n="886">On the 9th, in the afternoon, we unmoored, and rode all night at a
                     single anchor, which we weighed the next morning at four, thus leaving
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> a third time in the course of one voyage.
                     As often as we had visited this country, it had abundantly supplied us with
                     refreshments, which were particularly efficacious in restoring our health, and
                     banishing the symptoms of the scurvy. Not only well-tasted antiscorbutic
                     plants, but likewise the fish, which are easily digested, seem to me to have
                     been equally salutary restoratives. The keen air which is felt in
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>, on the finest days, contributed not a
                     little to brace our fibres, relaxed by a long cruize in warmer climates, and
                     the strong exercise we took was doubtless beneficial in many respects. From
                     hence it happened that we always left that country with new vigour. If we came
                     in ever so pale and emaciated, the good cheer which we enjoyed during our stay,
                     soon rekindled a glow of health on our cheeks, and we returned to the south,
                     like our ship, to all outward appearance, as clean and sound as ever, though in
                     reality somewhat impaired by the many hard rubs of the voyage. Perhaps it may
                     be attributed in part to the healthiness of the air, the simplicity of food,
                     and particularly its easy digestion and great abundance, that the natives have
                     attained a tall stature, are muscular, well proportioned<ref target="#edn269">
                        <note xml:id="edn269" anchored="true"> Except their legs, which are
                           ill-shaped, from their mode of sitting. </note>
                     </ref>, and well formed. It appears indeed from many circumstances, that fish
                     are so innumerable on their coasts, as to supply them with constant food, in
                     sufficient quantity throughout the year, especially as <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName> and ourselves observed that they had laid up a plentiful
                     share of dried fish for the winter.</p>

               </div>
               <div n="5" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. V.<lb/>
                     The course from <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> to <placeName>Tierra del
                           Fuego</placeName>.-Stay at <placeName>Christmas Harbour</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="887">
                     <q>
                        <l>Barbara prӕruptis inclusa est (insula) saxis:</l>
                        <l>Horrida, desertis undique vasta locis.</l>
                        <l>Umbrarum nullo ver est lӕtabile fœtu,</l>
                        <l>Nullaque in infausto nascitur herba solo.</l>
                        <persName>Seneca</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="888">
                     <date>[1774. November.][Thursday 10.]</date>WE cleared <placeName>Cook's
                        Strait</placeName> on the 10th in the afternoon, after passing within a few
                     leagues of the new inlet, which we had discovered previous to our departure. We
                     were becalmed all the next day in sight of the land, and did not obtain a
                     breeze till towards evening. On the 12th in the morning we were out of sight of
                     land, and steered away between the south and east, towards <placeName>Tierra
                        del Fuego</placeName>. We entered upon this navigation with more
                     chearfulness, than upon the last southern cruize. We were persuaded that no
                     land lay in our way to retard our progress; the westerly winds, which prevail
                     in these latitudes, were in our favour; and we knew that the hardships of the
                     voyage were drawing to an end. Indeed we looked upon ourselves as already safe
                     from perils, and the hope of revisiting Europe, after many hazardous tracks and
                     narrow escapes, seemed to animate us with new Promethean fire. The run from
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> to <placeName>Tierra del
                        Fuego</placeName> surpassed our warmest expectations, and, considering the
                     construction of our ship, which was always reckoned a dull sailor, was indeed
                     one of the quickest passages which can be imagined, as we made one day with
                     another upwards of forty leagues. We saw a whale on the 12th, about twelve
                     yards long, with an oblong blunt head, on which were two longitudinal furrows,
                     and as many upright ridges.1 It had small eyes, two semilunar apertures, from
                     whence it occasionally spouted the water, and was mottled all over with white
                     spots. It had two large fins behind the head, but none on the back. This
                     extraordinary creature seems to have been intirely unknown before.</p>

                  <p n="889">We had sprung a leak on going out of <placeName>Queen Charlotte's
                        Sound</placeName>, which we discovered on the 14th; but it gave us very
                     little uneasiness, as the water in the pump-well encreased only five inches in
                     eight hours. The westerly winds blew with astonishing violence, and the breadth
                     of the ocean being very considerable, the billows encreased to an immense size,
                     and seemed to be sometimes several hundred yards long. The ship rolled very
                     disagreeably when the wind was quite aft; and though it has been supposed that
                     a ship's inclination in the greatest roll never exceeds twenty degrees, we have
                     observed it inclined above thirty, and several times even to forty degrees.</p>

                  <p n="890">During this run we saw birds of the albatross, petrel, and pinguin
                     kinds, almost every day, and especially at equal distances from <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> and <placeName>America</placeName>, which are about
                     fifteen hundred leagues asunder. On the 27th of November we made a greater run
                     than ever was made in our ship before, which consisted of 184 miles by the
                     log.</p>

                  <p n="891">
                     <date>[1774. December.]</date>On the 2d of December, after a short calm, we had
                     a fresh breeze, which continued to blow without intermission, but with
                     different degrees of velocity, <date>[Sunday 18.]</date>till the 18th, when we
                     made the land, a little after midnight, near <placeName>Cape
                        Deseado</placeName>, on one of the westermost islands of <placeName>Tierra
                        del Fuego</placeName>. The fish which we had salted at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName> had lasted during the whole run, and we had found great
                     benefit from living upon them preferably to salt beef and pork, which was now
                     so universally loathed, that <persName>captain Cook</persName> himself declared
                     he should probably never eat it again with any degree of satisfaction. The
                     sour-krout had been constantly used in the mean while, and the wort had been
                     taken as a preservative by many persons in the ship. The former was still as
                     good as ever, but the malt was much damaged, and had lost part of its efficacy,
                     by having been put up in green unseasoned casks. I drank plentifully of it, but
                     was notwithstanding afflicted with considerable swellings in the legs, attended
                     with pains, which returned from time to time.</p>

                  <p n="892">The part of the world which was now in sight had a very unfavourable
                     aspect. About <time>three o'clock in the morning</time> we ran along it, and
                     found it for the greatest part hid in a thick haze. The parts near us seemed to
                     be small islands, which though not very high, were however very black, and
                     almost entirely barren. Beyond them we saw some broken high lands, which were
                     covered with snow, almost to the water's edge. Great flocks of shags,
                     shear-waters, skuas, and other water-fowl, in some measure made amends for the
                     desolate appearance of the coast, as they gave us great hopes that we should
                     meet with refreshments, if we could find a harbour. Few countries that we
                     touched at are so wretchedly destitute, as not to have afforded us some supply
                     of food, either animal or vegetable, by the assistance of which we made shift
                     to keep ourselves free from a high degree of the scurvy and other
                     distempers.</p>

                  <p n="893">In the afternoon we passed the island, upon which <placeName>Cape
                        Noir</placeName> is situated, mentioned by <persName>M. Frezier</persName>.2
                     The view which he gives of the land corresponded very well with what we saw;
                     and to the N. E. there appeared to be a long inlet, which is doubtless the
                     channel of <placeName>St. Barbara</placeName>. In the Spanish charts this
                     extremity of <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName> has long since been very
                     accurately laid down as divided into many islands and channels, which have been
                     explored, and each in particular named, by their early navigators. One of the
                     best charts of this kind accompanies the Spanish translation of the anonymous
                     account of <persName>Mr. Byron's</persName> Voyage round the World, by
                        <persName>Dr. Casimir Gomez Ortega</persName>. Agreeably to their
                     discoveries, we found many separate islands, from the place where we made the
                     coast to <placeName>Cape Noir</placeName>, and should perhaps have seen many
                     more, if the weather had not been very hazy.</p>

                  <p n="894">We found the land to all appearance much more compact after passing
                        <placeName>Cape Noir</placeName>; and <date>[Monday 19.]</date>the next
                     morning in particular, the coast seemed to be entirely connected; the mountains
                     rose to a much greater height, immediately from the sea-side, and were covered
                     with snow in every part. The wind gradually lessened, and towards noon we were
                     entirely becalmed, having the finest sun-shine, and mild weather. Many sorts of
                     water-birds appeared about us from time to time, and several seals also sported
                     in the water. In the afternoon about thirty grampusses were seen playing about
                     us, chiefly swimming in couples. Another calm succeeded again <date>[Tuesday
                        20.]</date>the next day, though we had had an easterly wind during a part of
                     the preceding afternoon. It was very amusing to us, to meet with mild weather
                     in the neighbourhood of that tempestuous cape, of which the name alone has
                     affrighted the mariners, ever since <persName>lord Anson's</persName> voyage.3
                     The destruction of vulgar prejudices is of so much service to science, and to
                     mankind in general, that it cannot fail of giving pleasure, to every one
                     sensible of its benefits. We had this day the thermometer at 48° which,
                     considering the neighbourhood of the huge heaps of snow on shore, was very
                     moderate. This part of the world has been called the <placeName>Coast of
                        Desolation</placeName> by the navigators who first visited it, and seems
                     fully to deserve the appellation. Here we discerned nothing but vast mountains,
                     of which the spiry summits were every where covered with eternal snow. Along
                     the sea, the nearest rocks were clear of snow, but black, and destitute of
                     grasses or shrubbery. Some inlets appeared in different parts, where a few
                     islands seemed to have a covering of green. We stood in to one of these in the
                     evening, having then obtained an easterly breeze. A huge perpendicular wall of
                     rock formed its western entrance, and <persName>captain Cook</persName> called
                     it the <placeName>York Minster</placeName>, having discovered a strong
                     resemblance between that Gothic building, and this dreary chaotic rock. It lies
                     in <geo select="lat">55° 30' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">70° 28' W.</geo>
                     Along the coast we found regular soundings, but in the mouth of the inlet, we
                     could not reach the bottom with one hundred and fifty fathom of line. This
                     circumstance had already happened to us before at <placeName>Dusky
                        Bay</placeName> (vol. I. p. 123); but as we saw a very spacious sound before
                     us, we ventured to stand on, amidst different rude islands, on which the
                     summits of hills were sometimes capt with snow. A boat was hoisted out, in
                     which my father accompanied some of the lieutenants, who endeavoured to shoot
                     birds, but brought only one on board. After being much retarded by calms, we
                     arrived about <time>nine o'clock</time> in a small cove, indifferently
                     sheltered either from wind or sea, but a welcome place of refuge on account of
                     the approach of night. Here, then we dropped the anchor, which had been aweigh
                     only forty-one days, during which we had crossed the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName> in its full extent, from <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>
                     to <placeName>Cape Deseado</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="895">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 21.]</date>The next morning <persName>captain Cook</persName>,
                     accompanied by several officers, as well as my father, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, and myself, went in a boat in quest of a more safe and
                     convenient anchorage. We only rowed round a single point of the island under
                     which our ship lay, and immediately found a fine cove sheltered from all winds,
                     and perfectly land-locked, with a little rill of water, and a shrubbery. The
                     weather was mild considering the climate, and several birds were heard on the
                     shore. We found many little clefts, which cannot properly be called vallies,
                     where a few shrubs of different species, sprung up in a thin layer of swampy
                     soil, being defended against the violence of storms, and exposed to the genial
                     influence of reverberated sun-beams. The rock of which the whole island
                     consisted, is a coarse granite, composed of feld-spath, quartz, and black mica
                     or glimmer. This rock is in most places entirely naked, without the smallest
                     vegetable particle; but wherever the rains, or melted snows have washed
                     together some little rubbish, and other particles in decay, it is covered with
                     a coating of minute plants, in growth like mosses, which forming a kind of
                     turf, about an inch or more in thickness, very easily slip away under the foot,
                     having no firm hold on the rock. In sheltered places a few other plants thrive
                     among these mossy species, and these at last form a sufficient quantity of
                     soil, for the nutriment of shrubs, especially in such spots as I have mentioned
                     before. Among them we immediately found the species, the bark of which
                        <placeName>captain Winter</placeName> discovered to be an excellent
                     aromatic, known in the shops by the name of <persName>Winter's</persName> bark,
                     but frequently, till of late, confounded with a very different plant, the <hi rend="italics">canella alba</hi>, of <placeName>Jamaica</placeName>. This
                        <persName>Winter's</persName> bark-tree grows on the shores of the
                        <placeName>straits of Magalhaens</placeName>, and on the eastern parts of
                        <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, to a stately size; but in this
                     barren part we never saw it under any other form than that of a shrub, about
                     ten feet high, crooked and shapeless. Barren as these rocks appeared, yet
                     almost every plant which we gathered on them was new to us, and some species
                     were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their smell. A new species
                     of geese, a sort of shags, the black oyster-catchers, or sea-pies, and several
                     other birds dwelt along the shores, which were lined with immense floating beds
                     of rockweeds. At our return, all our people began to remove the ship into her
                     new situation, where she was moored in the afternoon. A few small fish, of a
                     new species of cod, were caught among the weeds; but in general every attempt
                     to supply the table by fishing proved unsuccessful.</p>

                  <p n="896">Early the next morning, <persName>captain Cook</persName> set out to
                     take bearings in the sound, and we took that opportunity of examining its
                     natural productions. The sound is very spacious, and surrounded to the north
                     and east by several ranges of high mountains, which seem covered with permanent
                     snow and ice. In the bay itself are several islands of considerable elevation,
                     though not equal to the height of the main land, of which only the highest have
                     some snow on their very summits. That under which our ship lay at anchor, was
                     free from snow, though it seemed to be at least two hundred yards perpendicular
                     in height. Besides these high islands, we observed several, from ten to twenty
                     yards high, which lay in the northern part of the sound, and appeared to be
                     almost covered with verdure at a distance. We directed our course to one of
                     these, about three miles off, of which the mosses and shrubs, upon nearer
                     examination, seemed to have been burnt in several places. The rock was here a
                     kind of yellowish slate, which lay in horizontal strata, covered with a much
                     thicker stratum of soil, than we had seen on the other island. Among the plants
                     which grew on it, we picked up some new ones, and on its shores met with a new
                     sort of fly-catcher, which lived upon shell-fish and worms, and seemed for that
                     purpose to be furnished with a much stronger bill, than the birds of that genus
                     commonly have. Rowing round one end of this island, we observed a shrubbery, or
                     little grove on a point of land, in the shade of which stood several empty
                     huts. They resembled in shape that which is described and drawn in the
                     Endeavour's voyage<ref target="#edn270">
                        <note xml:id="edn270" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. </note>
                     </ref>, with this difference, that they were not covered with seals-skins,
                     which are perhaps put on occasionally, and deemed too valuable to be left
                     behind. They were only skeletons of huts, consisting of boughs of trees, which
                     for the greatest part had fresh green foliage on them; a sign that the natives
                     had but lately made them. On entering this sound, and taking notice of its
                     dreary, desolate appearance, we had supposed that the natives of
                        <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, never touch upon this inhospitable
                     part, but confine themselves to the neighbourhood of the <placeName>Straits of
                        Magalhaens</placeName>, and to the eastern side of <placeName>Tierra del
                        Fuego</placeName>; but it seems that human nature is capable of withstanding
                     the greatest inclemencies of weather, and of supporting its existence alike in
                     the burning sands of <placeName>Africa</placeName>, and in the frozen
                     extremities of the globe. We landed on several other islands, from whence we
                     had a most extensive view across the sound, which looked wild and horrid in its
                     wintery dress. This was however, the first summer month of these regions; most
                     of the plants we saw were in flower, and the birds were every where bringing up
                     their young. From thence we may easily form an adequate idea of the torpid
                     state of these regions, where the sun-beams cannot melt the snow, at a season
                     when their influence is the strongest. The farther we advanced from the sea,
                     the more snow appeared on the mountains. In some places we saw cascades, and
                     streams gushing down over the snow, especially where the rays of the sun took
                     effect by being frequently reflected. We found a most beautiful cove on this
                     coast, which formed a circular bason, where the water was smooth and
                     transparent as a mirror. All the lower parts were fringed with trees, which we
                     had no where seen so tall in the neighbourhood, and many streams rushed down
                     with great impetuosity between their roots, making a most convenient
                     watering-place. A prodigious number of small birds sat on every branch, and
                     twittered around us in the sun-shine. They were of many different species, but
                     unacquainted with men, hopped so near us, that it was impossible to shoot them,
                     especially as we had now no other than coarse shot left, and that in very small
                     quantity. Abundance of mosses, ferns, and climbers grew up between the trees,
                     and were no small impediment to us in walking. Various flowers enlivened these
                     woods, and encreased our collection with new species. Here then there was the
                     appearance of summer; but if we looked up to the monstrous cloud-capt mountains
                     which formed almost perpendicular walls on all sides of the harbour, and beheld
                     them covered with snow and ice, which had sometimes a blue, and sometimes a
                     yellowish tinge, we thought ourselves transported to the Glaciers of
                        <placeName>Switzerland</placeName>, where the seasons seem likewise to be
                     lost, and confounded in each other. The height of these mountains was very
                     considerable, though not equal to the <placeName>Alps</placeName>, and their
                     summits were divided into many sharp and craggy points, between which the
                     interval was filled with snow. We landed here, and walked along the shore to
                     another port, formed by a number of low islands, which entirely sheltered it
                     from all winds. Here we met with several species of wild ducks, and
                     particularly one of the size of a goose, which ran along the surface of the sea
                     with amazing velocity, beating the water with its wings and feet.</p>

                  <p n="897">
                     <q>______fugit illa per undas</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="898">
                     <q>Ocyor et jaculo, et ventos ӕquante sagittâ. <persName>Virgil</persName>.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="899">Indeed its motion was so quick, that we saw it was in vain to attempt
                     to shoot at it; a more favourable opportunity was therefore eagerly wished for.
                     In the sequel we really obtained several specimens of this curious bird, which
                     resembled a duck, except in the size, and in the extreme shortness of its
                     wings. It had a grey plumage, with a few white quill-feathers; a yellow bill
                     and feet, and two large, naked, callous knobs of the same colour, upon the
                     joint of each wing, at the <hi rend="italics">alula</hi>. Our sailors called
                     it a race-horse, from its vast swiftness; but in the <placeName>Falkland
                        Islands</placeName>, the English have given it the name of
                        loggerhead-duck<ref target="#edn271">
                        <note xml:id="edn271" anchored="true"> See the <hi rend="italics">Philosophical Transactions</hi>, vol. LXVI. part i. </note>
                     </ref>. Besides this species, we found numbers of the great gull or skua, which
                     had their nests among some dry grass on one of the islands. We were fortunate
                     enough to meet with an island entirely covered with the shrubs of a species of
                     arbutus, loaded with red fruit, of the size of small cherries, which were very
                     well tasted, and combined an agreeable tartness with a sweet and a bitter
                     flavour. The rocks of the same island, at the water's edge, were covered with
                     large muscle-shells, of which we found the fish more delicious than oysters. On
                     these two articles, with the help of a few biscuits, and a little piece of
                     salt-beef, we dined luxuriously, amidst the dreary rocks of a country, which at
                     first sight did not seem likely to furnish such an entertainment. To add to our
                     good fortune, we met with several islands in our return, covered with excellent
                     celery, which, though much smaller than that of <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>, was much higher flavoured, its juices being probably
                     more concentrated. We loaded our boat with it, and returned late on board,
                     after being overtaken by several smart showers. On our return, we found that
                     the neighbourhood of the ship was very sensibly warmer than the northern parts
                     of the sound, where the air was refrigrated by the abundance of snow on the
                     mountains. One of the lieutenants returned the same evening from an excursion
                     to the north-westward, whither he had been sent by <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> to take the bearings of the land.</p>

                  <p n="900">
                     <date>[Friday 23.]</date>The next day was so fine and mild, that several
                     gentlemen walked across the island under which the ship lay at anchor, and shot
                     many little birds in their excursion. <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> took a
                     draught of the whole sound from the height, which has a most picturesque
                     appearance in that point of view. It has been engraved for <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage; and the print is remarkable for
                     the figure of a falcon in the fore-ground, which, from its supernatural size,
                     seems to resemble the rukh, celebrated in the Arabian Tales, more than any bird
                     of less fanciful dimensions.4 We met with a most beautiful species of hawk on
                        <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, about the size of the
                     falcon-gentil, brown, with a black crest, and the neck and shoulders barred
                     with a grey and chocolate colour; the figure above mentioned may perhaps be
                     meant for this species.</p>

                  <p n="901">We accompanied the captain this morning on an excursion round the
                     island under which the ship lay at anchor, whilst he sent <persName>lieutenant
                        Pickersgill</persName> to explore another part of the bay. The trouble of
                     this day we thought well rewarded by a great number of shags which we shot
                     among the rocks, where they had built their nests by thousands. The power of
                     instinct had commonly impelled them to choose for this purpose such places
                     where the rocks project over the sea, or where at least they rise
                     perpendicular; that in case their young should happen to fall out, they might
                     take no hurt by dropping only in the water. The slate of which the rock
                     consisted in this part was not very hard; but it is nevertheless very
                     surprising that these birds have found means to make holes in it, or even to
                     enlarge its natural cavities so much, as to make room for their offspring in
                     them. These shags always returned to their nests immediately after we had
                     fired, and flew so heavily, that we found not much difficulty to shoot them on
                     the wing. The French at the <placeName>Falkland Isles</placeName> have called
                     these birds <hi rend="italics">nigauds</hi>, or ninnies, on account of their
                     seeming stupidity, which could hardly be taught to shun destruction<ref target="#edn272">
                        <note xml:id="edn272" anchored="true"> See <persName>Dom
                              Pernetty's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Voyage to the Malouines</hi>. </note>
                     </ref>. Besides these, we also brought on board three geese which we had shot
                     on this excursion, and which were very remarkable, on account of the difference
                     of colour between the male and female. The gander was somewhat less than a
                     common tame goose, and perfectly white, except the feet, which were yellow, and
                     the bill, which was black. The goose, on the contrary, was black, with white
                     transverse bars, a grey head, some green, and some white quill-feathers. It
                     should seem that nature hath very wisely ordered this disparity; for the female
                     being obliged to lead the young brood, its graver colour does not so easily
                     discover them to falcons and other birds of prey. I would only hint this as a
                     supposition which requires farther confirmation; perhaps our understanding is
                     much too short-sighted to assign, on such slight grounds, the true ways of
                     Divine Providence in the wonderful works of the creation.</p>

                  <p n="902">After we had returned on board, <persName>lieutenant
                        Pickersgill</persName> arrived, who had met with a cove on the eastern shore
                     of the sound, where a prodigious number of geese had taken up their residence.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> being desirous to procure some kind of
                     refreshment for his people, and to enable them to spend their Christmas-day
                     with chearfulness, proceeded towards that place the next morning, and sent
                        <persName>Mr. Pickersgill</persName> thither in another boat by a different
                     route. My father, <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, myself, and one
                     midshipman, accompanied the captain in the pinnace. We stood out to sea, along
                     an island to the east of the ship, which lay between us and the
                        <placeName>Goose Cove</placeName>. It happened very fortunately that we took
                     this course, without which we should probably have made a very unsuccessful
                     excursion. But along the whole southern extremity of the island, extending at
                     least four or five miles, we saw prodigious numbers of geese, which suffered us
                     to come close to them. We perceived that they were, for the greatest part,
                     young birds of the last year's brood, which moulted their feathers in this
                     place, and having lost their quill-feathers, could not fly to any great
                     distance. If we had been apprised of this circumstance at first, we might have
                     taken greater spoils than we did; however, after toiling till sunset, we had
                     collected no less than sixty-three geese, which enabled us to give a fresh meal
                     to every man on board. The sport of the day was extremely entertaining; for
                     though the object of our mission was variety, yet our principles were not yet
                     sufficiently sanctified, to refuse a good meal when it was offered<ref target="#edn273">
                        <note xml:id="edn273" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. III. p. 502.5 </note>
                     </ref>. We found many deep caverns in the rock, which vaulted sometimes thirty
                     yards over our heads; and the swell being rather moderate, we could often enter
                     into these dark places with the boat, and were always amply rewarded for our
                     trouble by meeting with a number of birds. Several of these caverns were forty
                     or fifty yards in length, and the rocky walls, about their entrance, were
                     commonly the abode of shags, to which we paid no attention at present. The
                     slate of which many of these rocks consist had likewise huge chasms and
                     crevices, which commonly proved fatal to the geese, as they could seldom fly
                     over, but fell between them, and were taken up alive by our sailors, to whom
                     this employment was an inexhaustible fund of diversion. It was late in the
                     evening when we arrived on board, where we found <persName>lieutenant
                        Pickersgill</persName>, who had discovered a small island in his way, almost
                     entirely covered with the eggs of sea-swallows or terns. He brought away about
                     three hundred of them, which were in general very fit to be eaten.</p>

                  <p n="903">
                     <date>[Sunday 25.]</date>During our absence some of the natives, in four small
                     canoes, had visited the ship; they were described to us as wretched and poor,
                     but inoffensive, and ready to part with their spears, seal-skins, and the like.
                     We now regretted that we had lost the opportunity of seeing them, but
                     fortunately they returned the next morning, though the weather was rainy. The
                     four canoes in which they came were made of the bark of trees, which could
                     hardly have grown in this sound, on account of their size. Several small sticks
                     are the ribs which distend this bark, and another stick forms the gunwale, over
                     which they have wrapped the extremity of the bark, and sewed it on. A few
                     stones, with a small quantity of earth, are laid in the bottom of each canoe,
                     and on this the natives keep a constant fire. Their paddles are small, and
                     rudely formed, and they work very slowly with them. Each canoe contained from
                     five to eight persons, including children, who, contrary to the custom of all
                     the nations in the <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, were very silent in their
                     approach to the ship, and when along side, hardly pronounced any other word
                     than <hi rend="italics">pesseray</hi>. Those whom <persName>M. de
                        Bougainville</persName> saw in the <placeName>Strait of
                        Magelhaens</placeName>, not far from hence, used the same word, from whence
                     he gave them the general name of Pecherais. We beckoned to them to come into
                     the ship, and some accepted the invitation, though without the least sign of
                     being pleased, and seemingly without the smallest degree of curiosity. Their
                     persons were short, not exceeding five feet six inches at most, their heads
                     large, the face broad, the cheek-bones very prominent, and the nose very flat.
                     They had little brown eyes, without life; their hair was black and lank,
                     hanging about their heads in disorder, and besmeared with train-oil. On the
                     chin they had a few straggling short hairs instead of a beard, and from their
                     nose there was a constant discharge of <hi rend="italics">mucus</hi> into
                     their ugly open mouth. The whole assemblage of their features formed the most
                     loathsome picture of misery and wretchedness to which human nature can possibly
                     be reduced.6 <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> made a most excellent drawing of
                     one of the men, which is extremely characteristic, and the print which
                        <persName>Mr. Basire</persName> has executed after it, for <persName>captain
                        Cook's</persName> account of this voyage, is a proof of his consummate
                     skill. The shoulders and chest were broad and bony, but the rest of the figure
                     was so thin and shrivelled, that to have seen it separate, we could not have
                     supposed it belonged to the same person. Their legs were lean and bowed, and
                     their knees disproportionately large. They had no other clothing than a small
                     piece of old seal-skin, which hung from their shoulders to the middle of the
                     back, being fastened round the neck with a string. The rest of their body was
                     perfectly naked, not the least regard being paid to what Europeans would term
                     decency. Their natural colour appeared to be an olive-brown, with a kind of
                     gloss, which has really some resemblance to that of copper; but many of them
                     had disguised themselves with streaks of red paint, and sometimes, though
                     seldom, with white; from whence it should seem evident, that the ideas of
                     ornament are of a more ancient date with mankind, than those of shame and
                     modesty. The women were nearly formed as the men, though somewhat less in
                     stature; their features were not less uncouth and ugly, and their dress exactly
                     the same. They had only added a small piece of seal-skin, not so large as the
                     palm of the hand, which hung down before, fixed to a string, which was tied
                     about the waist. Round their necks they wore leather strings, on which they had
                     hung a number of shells; and on their heads they had a kind of bonnet,
                     consisting of a few white quill feathers of geese, which they occasionally
                     placed upright on the head, by that means giving them a resemblance to the
                     French head-dresses of the last century<ref target="#edn274">
                        <note xml:id="edn274" anchored="true"> Fontanges. </note>
                     </ref>. There was but a single person among them, who had a small piece of a
                     guanaco's skin sewed on his seal-skin, to lengthen it. The children were
                     perfectly naked, and, like their mothers, huddled about the fire in each canoe,
                     shivering continually with cold, and rarely uttering any other word than <hi rend="italics">pesseray</hi>, which sometimes sounded like a word of
                     endearment, and sometimes seemed to be the expression of complaint. Those of
                     the men who had come on deck, spoke a few other words, which contained many
                     consonants and gutturals, particularly the <hi rend="italics">ll</hi> of the
                     Welch; and all seemed to lisp very strongly, which contributed to make them
                     wholly unintelligible. They accepted trifles, such as beads, without seeming to
                     value them, but at the same time they also gave away their own arms, or even
                     their ragged seal-skins, without the least concern; their whole character being
                     the strangest compound of stupidity, indifference, and inactivity. They had no
                     other arms than bows and arrows; the former were made of a kind of berberry
                     wood, very small and ill-shaped; and the latter of a different wood, between
                     two and three feet long, feathered at one end, and not pointed. The points are
                     put on occasionally, and they carried them in little seal-skin satchels, and
                     parted only with a single one, which was a wretched irregular triangle of black
                     slate. Besides these they have fish-gigs, of which the staffs are about ten
                     feet long, of equal thickness, but angular instead of being round, and provided
                     at one end with a sharp bone about a foot long, which has a single barb on one
                     side, and is occasionally tied on. These instruments they employ to take shells
                     from the rocks, according to the accounts of former voyagers<ref target="#edn275">
                        <note xml:id="edn275" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 56. </note>
                     </ref>. All those gestures, which the most wretched nation in the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> had easily understood, were made to them in
                     vain; they seemed not to have the most distant idea of teaching us their
                     language, and having probably no eager desire of possessing any thing which
                     they saw amongst us, they were not sollicitous to make themselves intelligible.
                     All those who had made the voyage in the Endeavour agreed, that the people whom
                     they had seen at <placeName>Success Bay</placeName>, lived much more
                     comfortably and happily than these wretched outcasts<ref target="#edn276">
                        <note xml:id="edn276" anchored="true"> See <persName>Hawkesworth</persName>,
                           vol. II. p. 54. </note>
                     </ref>; and upon comparing my account with the published narrative of that
                     voyage, it will easily appear, that the Pecherais of <placeName>Success
                        Bay</placeName> were considerably more civilized (if I may make use of this
                     term) than those who fell under our observation. Their stature was taller; they
                     had contrived buskins, which secured their feet; they appeared to be sensible
                     of the excellence of several European goods, and to set a value upon them;
                     lastly, they were more communicative, and had ideas of ceremony or civility;
                     whereas those we saw, at the same time that they felt the inclemency of the
                     weather, were yet too stupid, too indolent, or too wretchedly destitute of
                     means to guard against it. They seemed totally insensible of the superiority of
                     our situation, and did not once, with a single gesture, express their
                     admiration of the ship, and its many great and remarkable objects. I cannot
                     figure to myself a more unhappy human being, than one who seems to be so far
                     deprived of reason, as not to defend himself against the injuries of weather,
                     whilst he severely feels its effects; and who is incapable of combining ideas,
                     and comparing his own necessitous situation with that of others more happy than
                     himself. If ever the pre-eminence of a civilized life over that of the savage
                     could have been reasonably disputed, we might, from the bare contemplation of
                     these miserable people, draw the most striking conclusions in favour of our
                     superior happiness. Till it can be proved, that a man in continual pain, from
                     the rigour of climate, is happy, I shall not give credit to the eloquence of
                     philosophers, who have either had no opportunity of contemplating human nature
                     under all its modifications, or who have not felt what they have seen<ref target="#edn277">
                        <note xml:id="edn277" anchored="true"> The ill-natured system of philosophy
                           which these men support, is only copied from
                              <placeName>Seneca</placeName>, who made light of the distresses of
                           others, being himself in affluence. The following passage is very
                           applicable to the poor Pecherais, and the reflection at the end is one of
                           those I allude to. <hi rend="italics">Perpetua illos hiems, triste cœlum
                              premit;</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">-Seneca de Providentiâ.</hi> See also Hawkesworth,
                           vol. II. p. 59. </note>
                     </ref>. It were to be wished, that the consciousness of those great advantages
                     which heaven hath bestowed on us, in preference to so many of our rational
                     fellow-creatures, might tend to the general reformation of morals amongst us;
                     instead of which, our civilized communities are stained with vices and
                     enormities, unknown to the wretch, who, compared with ourselves, is next to a
                     brute, being destitute of that superior knowledge, of which, to our shame be it
                     spoken, we do not always make the best uses.</p>

                  <p n="904">These wretched natives of a most dreary country, fed on pieces of
                     seal's-flesh, which being very putrid, were become highly offensive. They
                     relished the fat oily part, which we would reject at all times, and offered
                     some of it to our sailors. It should seem that they prefer this vile blubber by
                     instinct, as all nations in high latitudes are fond of it, and are said, in
                     some measure to season their bodies against the cold by this diet. The natural
                     consequence of it was an insupportable rank stench, which exhaled from their
                     whole body, and which their flesh, their dressed, arms, ornaments, and utensils
                     seemed to have thoroughly imbibed. This odour was so completely nauseous, that
                     we could not continue long in their company, and with our eyes shut, could
                     smell them at a considerable distance. It almost surpasses belief, but is
                     nevertheless an undeniable fact, that our boldest and roughest sailors were so
                     totally overcome by this horrid exhalation, that they did not offer to contract
                     any intimate acquaintance with the women. Our people offered them salt
                     provisions, and rotten biscuit, but they set no manner of value on this food,
                     and could hardly be persuaded to taste of it. Did their instinct perhaps teach
                     them that it was more unwholesome than their own rotten seal's-flesh? - We did
                     not observe any kind of subordination among these people, whose mode of life
                     approaches nearer to that of brutes, than that of any other nation. It is
                     indeed very probable, that they are the miserable out-casts of some
                     neighbouring tribe, which enjoys a more comfortable life; and that being
                     reduced to live in this dreary inhospitable part of <placeName>Tierra del
                        Fuego</placeName>, they have gradually lost every idea, but those which
                     their most urgent wants give rise to. They ramble perhaps in quest of food,
                     from one inlet or bay into another, as we have reason to suppose this sound
                     communicates with others, and take up their winter residence in the least
                     uncomfortable spot of this horrid country. I am indeed of opinion that the
                     rigour of the winter, is not proportionate to the cold during summer,
                     particularly as the thermometrical observations made in the <placeName>Falkland
                        Islands</placeName>, (see vol. I. p. 499.) which are not far from
                        <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, and nearly in the same latitude,
                     strongly confirm this supposition. But allowing the winters to be as mild as
                     possible, still however they must prove dreadfully distressing to these poor
                     destitute wretches, who have not sagacity enough to guard against them. We are
                     told by the Dutch navigators, especially admiral <persName>Jacques
                        l'Hermite</persName>, who conducted the Nassau fleet into the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName> in 1624, that the natives on the southern
                     extremity of <placeName>Tierra del Fueg</placeName>o are cannibals, and kill
                     each other in order to regale themselves<ref target="#edn278">
                        <note xml:id="edn278" anchored="true"> See <hi rend="italics">Recueil des
                              Voyages qui ont servi à l'Etablissement de la Compagnie des Indes
                              Orientales</hi>. Amsterd. 1705, vol. IV. p. 702. </note>
                     </ref>. If there be any likelihood that want of food has ever suggested this
                     horrid practice, I should admit that it was possible, among a small number of
                     unhappy individuals, driven from more convenient seats to these barren
                     extremities of the world; and in that case it must likewise be allowed, that
                     such a tribe cannot long continue in being.</p>

                  <p n="905">The poor Pecherais embarked in their canoes again about noon, and
                     slowly and silently paddled away, in the same manner as they came.
                        <date>[Monday 26.]</date>Our sailors well pleased to see their ship safe at
                     anchor, had already begun their holiday the evening before, and continued to
                     carouse during two days without intermission, till <placeName>captain
                        Cook</placeName> ordered the greatest part of them to be packed into a boat,
                     and put ashore, to recover from their drunkenness in the fresh air.</p>

                  <p n="906">
                     <date>[Tuesday 27.]</date>On the 27th in the morning, some of the people being
                     tolerably sober, <placeName>captain Cook</placeName> manned a boat, and went
                     with my father, and <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, to the same island where
                     we had been so successful on the 24th. He brought on board in the evening some
                     geese and other fowls, which were roasted, and preserved as a kind of
                     sea-stock. In his absence the natives came on board again, but made a very
                     short stay, as nobody took any notice of them on account of their insufferable
                     stench. The word <hi rend="italics">pesseray</hi> which they repeated from
                     time to time, was pronounced in such a piteous tone, that we sometimes believed
                     the natives were begging; but upon looking at them, we discovered no change of
                     countenance; nothing but that vacant stare which is the characteristic of the
                     most consummate stupidity.</p>

                  <p n="907">Having completed our provision of wood and water, and brought the tents
                     on board, which had been erected on shore, we sailed <date>[Wednesd.
                        28.]</date>the 28th in the morning, at <time>eight o'clock</time>, on our
                     way towards <placeName>Cape Horn</placeName>. The refreshments which we had
                     obtained in this sound, which was named <placeName>Christmas Sound</placeName>,
                     and its convenient situation for ships coming into, or going out of the
                        <placeName>South Sea</placeName>, make it a very fit place of resort. It
                     contains many excellent harbours, and has wood enough for fuel, though little
                     or none for the carpenter's use; its water is very pure, and well-tasted, and
                     the air though keen, is yet very salubrious. Whilst we lay in this sound, one
                     of the marines was unfortunately drowned. He was not missed till two days
                     after, when an enquiry being made, it was discovered, that being much
                     intoxicated he had gone down into the head, where he had probably flipped
                     overboard. It was the same person who had before escaped drowning off the
                        <placeName>Isle of Irromanga</placeName>, and who afterwards shot a native
                     of <placeName>Tanna</placeName>.7 This was the fourth and last man we lost in
                     the course of our whole voyage.</p>

                  <p n="908">
                     <date>[Thursday 29.]</date>In the afternoon we passed the <placeName>island of
                        St. Ildefonso</placeName>, probably so called by Spanish navigators; after
                     which we steered to the eastward whilst it was light, and tacked till the day
                     broke. At six in the morning we passed <placeName>Cape Horn</placeName>, which
                     is a large black rock, at the extremity of an island, lying before the
                        <placeName>Nassau</placeName> inlet, discovered by <persName>Jacques
                           l'Hermite<ref target="#edn279">
                           <note xml:id="edn279" anchored="true"> See <hi rend="italics">Recueil
                                 des Voyages qui ont servi à l'Etablissement</hi>, &amp;c. vol.
                              IV. p. 696. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </persName>. This famous cape has hitherto been ill placed in the charts, but
                     the two voyages of <persName>captain Cook</persName> round it, have fixed its
                     situation exactly at <geo select="lat">55° 58' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">67° 46' W.</geo> After taking our leave of the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>, we steered for <placeName>Le Maire's Strait</placeName>,
                     between <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, and <placeName>Staten
                        Island</placeName>. Towards evening, we came near enough to observe, that
                     this side of <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName> had a much milder aspect,
                     than that about <placeName>Christmas Sound</placeName>. Here the land sloped
                     down from the hills into long level points, covered with tall forests; and no
                     snow was to be seen, except on the distant western mountains. We entered the
                     strait the next morning, but were becalmed in it almost the whole day.
                        <placeName>Success Bay</placeName> lay open to our eyes, and the country
                     about it looked so rich and fertile, that we heartily wished to make some stay
                     there.</p>

                  <p n="909">About <time>two o'clock in the afternoon</time>, whilst we were at
                     dinner, <persName>captain Cook</persName> dispatched a boat to the shore, in
                     order to examine whether the Adventure had touched there, and to leave some
                     account of our passing the strait. The ship in the mean while stood on with
                     faint breezes towards the side of <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, in
                     order to take up the boat on its return. A number of large whales, not less
                     than thirty, and some hundred of seals, played in the water about us.8 The
                     whales went chiefly in couples, from whence we supposed this to be the season
                     when the sexes meet. Whenever they spouted up the water, or, as the sailors
                     term it, were seen blowing to windward, the whole ship was infected with a most
                     detestable, rank, and poisonous stench, which went off in the space of two or
                     three minutes. Sometimes these huge animals lay on their backs, and with their
                     long pectoral fins beat the surface of the sea, which always caused a great
                     noise, equal to the explosion of a swivel. This kind of play has doubtless
                     given rise to the mariner's story of a fight between the thrasher and whale, of
                     which the former is said to leap out of the water, in order to fall heavily on
                     the latter.9 Here we had an opportunity of observing the same exercise many
                     times repeated, and discerned that all the belly and under side of the fins and
                     tail are of a white colour, whereas the rest is black. As we happened to be
                     only sixty yards from one of these animals, we perceived a number of
                     longitudinal furrows, or wrinkles, on its belly, from whence we concluded it
                     was the species by <persName>Linnӕus</persName> named <hi rend="italics">balœna boops</hi>. Besides flapping their fins in the water, these
                     unwieldy animals, of forty feet in length, and not less than ten feet in
                     diameter, sometimes fairly leaped into the air, and dropped down again with a
                     heavy fall, which made the water foam all round them. The prodigious quantity
                     of power required to raise such a vast creature out of the water is
                     astonishing; and their peculiar oeconomy cannot but give room to many
                     reflections.</p>

                  <p n="910">The boat which the captain had sent to <placeName>Success
                        Bay</placeName> returned about <time>six o'clock in the evening</time>. The
                     lieutenant acquainted us that his boat had been followed into the bay by many
                     seals, and some whales, upon one of which the boat narrowly escaped striking.
                     He had not found the least sign at the watering-place of any European ship
                     having lately passed this way; but on landing, several natives met him well
                     dressed in guanacoe-skins, and large cloaks of seal-skins, with a much more
                     chearful and happy countenance, than the poor tribe whom we had left at
                        <placeName>Christmas Sound</placeName>. They had bracelets of reed, with
                     silver-wire wrapped about it, to which they often pointed, pronouncing the word
                        <hi rend="italics">passeray</hi>, and seeming to set no value on any
                     thing our people had to offer. It was concluded that they had received these
                     ornaments from the Spaniards, either by means of ships which had touched at
                     this bay, or indirectly through the hands of other tribes to the north of the
                        <placeName>strait of Magelhaens</placeName>. After staying on shore two or
                     three minutes, our people re-embarked, and came on board. We continued our
                     course through the <placeName>Strait of Le Maire</placeName>, and the next
                     morning ran along the shore of <placeName>Staten Land</placeName>, which was
                     wrapped in thick fogs. Later in the day the fog cleared a little away, and gave
                     us a view of the land, which consisted of mountains, to the full as craggy and
                     barren as those of the west coast of <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>,
                     though not so high, and therefore less covered with snow. Several islands,
                     about thirty yards perpendicular in height, lay off this coast, and seemed
                     entirely covered with grass at the top. Great numbers of seals were seen about
                     them; and as <persName>captain Cook</persName> was in want of oil, he thought
                     he should have the best opportunity of providing himself with this article, by
                     coming to an anchor somewhere in the neighbourhood. These islands were seen by
                     father <persName>Feuilleè</persName>, who has given a map of them in his Voyage
                     to <placeName>Peru</placeName>, which we found to be very erroneous. After
                     turning round them, we perceived a snug harbour on <placeName>Staten
                        Land</placeName>, but <placeName>captain Cook</placeName> did not choose to
                     put in there, because he was of opinion he might be detained in it by contrary
                     winds. He therefore preferred anchoring under the lee of one of the low
                     islands; and as the 31st of December ended at noon, according to the nautical
                     reckoning, he gave these islands the name of <placeName>New Year's
                        Islands</placeName>, and the harbour on <placeName>Staten Land</placeName>,
                     that of <placeName>New Year's Harbour</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="911"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="6" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VI.<lb/>
                     Stay at the <placeName>New Year's Islands</placeName>. Discovery of lands to
                        the southward. Return to the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="912">
                     <date>[1774. December.][Saturday 31.]</date>OUR boats were hoisted out
                     immediately after dinner, and we went in them to the island, which was above a
                     mile off. The rocks along shore were covered with a multitude of seals, amongst
                     which the largest had a long shaggy mane, and therefore deserved to be called
                     sea-lions with much greater propriety, than those smooth animals to which
                        <persName>Lord Anson</persName> gave that name at <persName>Juan
                        Fernandez</persName>. Indeed many former navigators have also given them
                     that name, though their writings are little read at present<ref target="#edn280">
                        <note xml:id="edn280" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Francis Pretty</persName>, in Hackluyt, III. speaks of our
                           sea-lions, p. 805. " These seales are of a wonderfull great bignesse,
                           huge and monstrous of shape, and for the forepart of their bodies cannot
                           be compared to any thing better than to a lion: their head and necke, and
                           foreparts of their bodies, are full of rough haire." <persName>Sir
                              Richard Hawkins</persName> says something to the same purpose, and
                           adds, that they have whiskers, of which one may make tooth-picks.-See Des
                           Brosses <hi rend="italics">Nav. aux Terres Australes</hi>, vol. I. p.
                           244. <persName>Sir John Narborough</persName> likewise takes notice of
                           their striking resemblance to lions; and Labbe, in the <hi rend="italics">Lettres des</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">Missionnaires</hi>, tom. XV. adds, that the
                           sea-lion only differs from the sea-bear by the long hair about his neck;
                           an observation which is strictly true.-See Des Brosses <hi rend="italics">Nav. aux Terres Australes</hi>, vol. II. p. 434.
                        </note>
                     </ref>. We put into a little cove under shelter of a few rocks, and fired at
                     some of these fierce animals, most of which immediately threw themselves into
                     the water. Some of the most unwieldy, however, kept their ground, and were
                     killed by our bullets. Several showers interrupted our sport for some time, but
                     the weather clearing up afterwards, we killed with clubs a great number of the
                     fattest sea-lions, which our crew carried on board, in order to boil their
                     blubber into train-oil. The old males were in general very fat, and measured
                     from ten to twelve feet in length; the females were more slender, and from six
                     to eight feet long. The weight of the largest male amounts to 1200 or 1500 lb.
                     for one of a middle size weighed 550 lb. after the skin, entrails, and blubber
                     were taken off. The head of the male has really some resemblance to a lion's
                     head, and the colour is likewise very nearly the same, being only a darker hue
                     of tawny. The long shaggy hair on the neck and throat of the male, beginning at
                     the back of the head, bears a strong resemblance to a mane, and is hard and
                     coarse to the touch; all the rest of the body is covered with short hairs,
                     which lie very close to the skin, and form a smooth glossy coat. The lioness is
                     perfectly smooth all over the body; but both sexes are formed alike with regard
                     to the feet, or rather fins. Those fins which originate near the breast are
                     large flat pieces of a black coriaceous membrane, which have only some small
                     indistinct vestiges of nails on their middle. The hinder fins are rather more
                     like feet, being black membranes divided into five long toes, with a thin
                     thong, or membrane, projecting far beyond the nails, which are very small. With
                     these nails however we have seen them scratch all parts of their body. The tail
                     is excessively short, and hid between the hind feet or fins, which grow close
                     together. The whole hind quarters are very round, being covered with an amazing
                     quantity of fat. The noise which all the animals of this kind make together was
                     various, and sometimes stunned our ears. The old males snort and roar like mad
                     bulls or lions; the females bleat exactly like calves, and the young cubs like
                     lambs. Of the young we saw great numbers on the beaches; and one of the females
                     being knocked down with a club, littered in the same instant. The sea-lions
                     live together in numerous herds. The oldest and fattest males lie apart, each
                     having chosen a large stone, which none of the rest dares approach without
                     engaging in a furious battle. We have often seen them seize each other with a
                     degree of rage which is not to be described; and many of them had deep gashes
                     on their backs, which they had received in the wars. The younger active
                     sea-lions, with all the females and the cubs, lie together. They commonly
                     waited the approach of our people; but as soon as some of the herd were killed,
                     the rest took flight with great precipitation, some females carrying off a cub
                     in their mouths, whilst many were so terrified as to leave them behind. When
                     left to themselves, they were often seen caressing each other in the most
                     tender manner, and their snouts oft met together, as if they were kissing. The
                     late <persName>professor Steller</persName> found these animals at
                        <placeName>Bering's Island</placeName>, near
                        <placeName>Kamtchatka</placeName>, where he was shipwrecked; and his
                     descriptions, the first and best ever drawn up, correspond exactly with our
                     observations. <persName>M. Pernetty</persName>, in his Voyage to the
                        <placeName>Falkland Islands</placeName>, has likewise mentioned him; but his
                     figure, which is very inaccurate, is perfectly in the style of all his other
                     drawings, and corresponds with the truth and accuracy of his writings<ref target="#edn281">
                        <note xml:id="edn281" anchored="true"> See his <hi rend="italics">Voyage</hi>, English edition, p. 240, and tab. 15, fig. 2. </note>
                     </ref>. <persName>M. de Bougainville</persName>, in his Voyage round the World,
                     also speaks of them. They come ashore on these uninhabited spots to breed; they
                     do not, however, feed during their stay on shore, which sometimes lasts several
                     weeks, but grow lean, and swallow a considerable quantity of stones to keep
                     their stomach distended. We were surprised to find the stomachs of many of
                     these animals entirely empty, and of others filled with ten or a dozen round
                     heavy stones, each of the size of two fists<ref target="#edn282">
                        <note xml:id="edn282" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Beauchesne Gouin</persName>, the French navigator, has made the
                           same observation, and adds, " there was some appearance that these stones
                           were already begun to be digested;" though I doubt whether this part of
                           the story will gain credit with his readers.-See Des Brosses <hi rend="italics">Navig. aux Terres Australes</hi>, vol. II. p. 114.
                        </note>
                     </ref>.1</p>

                  <p n="913">Having made some havock among these creatures, we walked upon the
                     summit of the island, which was nearly level, but covered with innumerable
                     little mounds of earth, on each of which grew a large tuft of grass (<hi rend="italics">dactylis glomerata</hi>). The intervals between these tufts
                     were very muddy and dirty, which obliged us to leap from one tuft to the other.
                     We soon discovered that another kind of seals occupied this part of the island,
                     and caused the mud by coming wet out of the sea. These were no other than the
                     sea-bears which we had already seen at <placeName>Dusky Bay</placeName>, but
                     which were here infinitely more numerous, and grown to a much larger size,
                     equalling that assigned to them by <persName>Steller</persName>. They are
                     however far inferior to the sea-lions, the males being never above eight or
                     nine feet long, and thick in proportion. Their hair is dark brown, minutely
                     sprinkled with grey, and much longer on the whole body than that of the
                     sea-lion, but does not form a mane. The general outline of the body, and the
                     shape of the fins are exactly the same. They were more fierce towards us, and
                     their females commonly died in defence of their young. Great numbers of a
                     species of vultures, commonly called carrion crows by the sailors (<hi rend="italics">vultur aura</hi>), were seen upon this island, and probably
                     feed on young seal-cubs, which either die in the birth, or which they take an
                     opportunity to seize upon. Besides them we also found a new species of hawks,
                     and several geese of the sort which had so well furnished out our Christmas
                     entertainment. Here we likewise saw a few pinguins, of a species which we had
                     not met with before, some large grey petrels of the size of albatrosses, being
                     the same species which the Spaniards name <hi rend="italics">que
                        branta-huessos</hi>, or the bone-breakers, and some shags.</p>

                  <p n="914">
                     <date>[1775. January.][Sunday 1.]</date>The new year began with a very fair
                     day, though it blew fresh, and the air was sharp. A boat was dispatched to
                        <placeName>New Year's harbour</placeName>, to sound and survey it, but as
                        <persName>lieutenant Pickersgill</persName> had orders not to make any stay
                     on shore, we did not accompany him, choosing rather to take another turn on the
                     new island with <persName>captain Cook</persName>. The strata of this island,
                     consisted of a yellowish clay-stone, and sometimes of a grey slate, both which
                     were of different degrees of hardness, in different places. We fell in with
                     many herds of sea-bears, and sea-lions, which we did not attack, as another
                     party was sent out upon that errand. We observed however, that these two
                     species, though sometimes encamped on the same beach, always kept at a great
                     distance asunder, and had no communication with each other. A strong rank
                     stench is common to them, as well as to all other seals; a circumstance as well
                     known to the ancients, as their inactivity and drowsiness whilst they lie on
                     shore.</p>

                  <p n="915">
                     <q>________jwcai uepodez_______________ </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="916">
                     <q>'Aqzoai eudcsiu, volihz aloz exauadusai,</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="917">
                     <q>Piczou apopueiasai aloz poludeuqeoz odmpn.</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="918">
                     <q>
                        <l>Webfooted seals forsake the whitening waves,</l>
                        <l>And sleep in herds, exhaling nauseous stench.2</l>
                     </q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="919">Rowing along shore, we fell in with a spot where several thousand shags
                     had built their nests, on those elevated tufts which I have mentioned before.
                     Here was an opportunity to provide the whole ship's company with a fresh meal,
                     which was not neglected. The birds were for the greatest part so tame, as to
                     let our boat's crew come among them with clubs and staves; by which means
                     several hundreds of them were killed. On this day's excursion we found a bird
                     of a new genus, which was of the size of a pigeon, and perfectly white. It
                     belonged to the class of wading water-fowl, its toes were half webbed, and its
                     eyes, as well as the base of the bill, surrounded by many little white glands
                     or warts. It had such an horrid offensive smell, that we could not taste the
                     flesh, though at this time we were not easily disgusted. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> observed the latitude on the east end of the island, which
                     was a barren rock wholly covered with herds of seals, flocks of gulls, shags,
                     and other animals. We returned to dine on board, and then spent the afternoon
                     upon the island again. We shot there several geese, amongst which was a new
                     species; and were not less successful among a flock of pinguins, than we had
                     been among the shags in the morning. They were of the size of small geese, and
                     of that species which is the most common in the neighbourhood of the
                        <placeName>Straits of Magelhaens</placeName>. The English at the
                        <placeName>Falkland Islands</placeName> have named them jumping-jacks<ref target="#edn283">
                        <note xml:id="edn283" anchored="true"> See <hi rend="italics">Phil.
                              Trans</hi>. vol. LXVI. part i.4 </note>
                     </ref>.3 They sleep very sound, for <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> met one
                     of them, which he kicked several yards by accidentally stumbling over it,
                     without breaking its sleep, till by repeatedly shaking the bird, it awoke. When
                     the whole flock was beset, they all became very bold at once, and ran violently
                     at us, biting our legs, or any part of our clothes. They are excessively
                     hard-lived, for having left a great number of them, seemingly dead on the field
                     of battle, and going in the pursuit of the rest, they all at once got up, and
                     walked off with great gravity. The seals and sea-lions were likewise killed
                     with great difficulty, but their snout was by far the most sensible part.
                        <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName>, and myself, were near being attacked by
                     one of the oldest sea-bears, on a cliff where several hundreds lay assembled,
                     which all seemed to wait the issue of the fight. The Doctor had discharged his
                     musket at a bird, and was going to pick it up, when this old bear growled and
                     snarled, and seemed ready to oppose him. As soon as I was near enough, I shot
                     the surly creature dead, and at that instant the whole herd, seeing their
                     champion fallen, hurried to the sea; and many of them hobbled along with such
                     precipitation, as to leap down ten or fifteen yards perpendicular, upon the
                     pointed rocks on the shore, though without receiving any hurt, which may be
                     attributed to their fat easily giving way, and their hide being remarkably
                     tough.</p>

                  <p n="920">The chace of these animals afforded great sport to our people; and the
                     many singular circumstances which must strike the observer, in contemplating a
                     species of animals associated into numerous herds, gave us much satisfaction.
                     All these creatures were here in their proper climate; for the seals and
                     sea-lions being loaded with an immense quantity of fat, and the shags and
                     pinguins with a thick plumage, felt no inconvenience from the coolness of the
                     weather. The captain obtained a considerable quantity of blubber, which was put
                     into casks, and afterwards converted into oil; but a disagreeable putrid stench
                     infected the whole ship for several days after leaving these <placeName>New
                        Year's Isles</placeName>. In the evening our party returned from
                        <placeName>New Year's Harbour</placeName>, on <placeName>Staten
                        Land</placeName>, which they had found extremely safe and commodious. They
                     brought with them some gulls, and five large ducks of the short-winged sort,
                     which our sailors called race-horses. Each of these weighed sixteen pounds, but
                     their meat was remarkably fetid, and not fit to be eaten. We spent the second
                     of January in the same manner as the first, still making an acquisition of some
                     new species of birds, with which this island, notwithstanding its small size,
                     abounded. Among the rest we found a fine sort of grey curlew, with a yellow
                     neck, which was one of the stateliest birds we had ever seen. The vegetable
                     productions of this spot were confined to six or eight species, among which we
                     saw some small shrubs not above three feet high, and a new plant; but the grass
                     above mentioned (<hi rend="italics">dactylis glomerata</hi>) occupied almost
                     the whole surface of the island. In the evening we hoisted in all our boats,
                     and <date>[Tuesday 3.]</date>the next morning at <time>three o'clock</time> we
                     set sail, and doubled the N. E. end of <placeName>Staten Land</placeName>,
                     which is named <placeName>Cape St. John</placeName> by father
                        <persName>Feuillèe</persName>. A prodigious strong tide was observed to run
                     past our ship every day whilst we lay at anchor, at the rate of four or five
                     miles an hour. This is, however, so much the less remarkable, as the
                        <placeName>Straits of Magelhaens</placeName> and the eastern coast of
                        <placeName>America</placeName>, in high southern latitudes, are likewise
                     known to have strong tides. The <placeName>New Year's Islands</placeName>,
                     which we now left, are situated in <geo select="lat">54° 46' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">64° 30' W.</geo> The largest of them is about six leagues, and
                     that under which we lay at anchor appeared to be between three and four leagues
                     in circuit. They are excellent places of refreshment for a ship's crew bound on
                     expeditions like ours; for though the flesh of sea-lions and pinguins is not
                     the most palatable food, yet it is infinitely more salubrious than salt meat;
                     and by searching the different islands, it is not improbable that a sufficient
                     quantity of celery and scurvy-grass might be found to supply the whole crew,
                     especially as we saw both the species on our excursions. Our seamen lived
                     several days on young shags and pinguins, of which they found the former
                     extremely palatable, comparing them to young pullets. They likewise roasted
                     several little cubs of seals, but there was a degree of softness in the meat
                     which made it disgustful. The flesh of young but full-grown sea-bears was
                     greatly preferable, and tasted like coarse and bad beef; but that of the old
                     sea-lions and bears was so rank and offensive, that we could not touch it.</p>

                  <p n="921">After ranging the eastern and southern coast of <placeName>Staten
                        Land</placeName>, till the afternoon, we took our departure, and steered to
                     the E. S. E. in order to pass our third summer season to the southward. We had
                     strong gales, which carried away a main-top-gallant-mast, and some studding
                     sail-booms; but as the wind was in our favour, these losses were esteemed of
                     little consequence. A <hi rend="italics">halo</hi> of very great
                     circumference was observed round <date>[Thursday 5.]</date>the sun on the 5th.
                     It inclosed a dark area, but the circle itself was white, with several faint
                     prismatic hues on the edges. This was reckoned a prognostic of storms, but we
                     experienced mild weather for several days afterwards, from whence we may
                     conclude how far such signs are to be relied upon. The latest charts published
                     in <placeName>England</placeName> and <placeName>France</placeName>, have laid
                     down a great sea-coast between 40° and 53° west, in the latitude of <geo select="lat">54°</geo> and <geo select="lat">58° s</geo>outh, which they
                     found marked in a chart projected by <persName>Ortelius</persName>, in 1586<ref target="#edn284">
                        <note xml:id="edn284" anchored="true"> See Mr. Dalrymple's <hi rend="italics">Memoir of a Chart of the <placeName>Southern
                                 Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>, and the Chart itself, which bear an indisputable testimony of
                           the laudable enthusiasm with which that gentleman has prosecuted his
                           inquiries on this subject. </note>
                     </ref>, and in that of <persName>Mercator</persName>, published so early as the
                     year 1569. It appears to have been discovered by Spanish navigators, as the
                     name of <placeName>Golfo de San Sebastiano</placeName> seems to indicate. We
                     passed over that part of the ocean, where the western coast of this gulph is
                     said to be situated, but did not meet with any land. <persName>Captain
                        Furneaux</persName> likewise the year before, passed across both the eastern
                     and western shores of this gulph, in 60°, and afterwards 58° S. from 60° to 40°
                     W. without seeing land. It appears therefore that either this gulph does not
                     exist, or that it is not rightly laid down in former charts; and the latter is
                     much more probable, since it can hardly be conceived by what means such a
                     discovery could obtain a place in the old charts, without some authority to
                     support it.</p>

                  <p n="922">On the 6th, at eight in the evening, we changed our course, and stood
                     to the northward, having reached upwards of <geo select="lat">58° S.</geo>
                     without seeing any ice; though <persName>Dr. Halley</persName>, in the year
                     1700, at the same season, found abundance of ice in the latitude of <geo select="lat">52° S.</geo> A heavy dew fell on the 8th in the evening, which
                     is reckoned an indubitable sign of land; and petrels, albatrosses, and seals
                     had been seen from time to time, ever since we left <placeName>Staten
                        Land</placeName>. Having run into <geo select="lat">54° S.</geo> we began to
                     steer to the eastward again, in search of the land which was discovered by
                        <persName>M. Duclos Guyot</persName>, in the Spanish ship Lion, which sailed
                     from <placeName>Callao</placeName> in <placeName>Peru</placeName>, in February
                     1756, and passed <placeName>Cape Horn</placeName> in the depth of Winter<ref target="#edn285">
                        <note xml:id="edn285" anchored="true"> See a <hi rend="italics">Collection
                              of Voyages, chiefly in the <placeName>Southern Atlantic
                                 Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>, published by <persName>Mr. Dalrymple</persName>, 1775. The land
                           seen by Antonio la Roche, in 1675, appears to be the same with this
                           discovered in the Lion. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="923">
                     <date>[Saturday 14.]</date>We continued to stand to the eastward, seeing many
                     birds, and now and then pinguins, and sea-weeds, till the 14th, in the morning,
                     when the officer of the watch acquainted the captain that an island of ice was
                     in sight. We continued sailing towards it all day; but in the evening we
                     discovered that what had been taken for ice, was really land, which seemed to
                     be of great height, and covered with snow for the greatest part. By consulting
                     the accounts of <persName>M. Guyot</persName>, it appears to be certain, that
                     this land is the same of which he saw the south end in June 1756, and which he
                     named <placeName>Isle de St. Pierre</placeName>. He lays it down in <geo select="lon">38° 10' W.</geo> from <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, which
                     agrees entirely with our observations of the north-west extremity, and is only
                     between thirty and forty leagues to the west of the longitude which we assign
                     for the S.E. end<ref target="#edn286">
                        <note xml:id="edn286" anchored="true"> See the Extract of <persName>Mr.
                              Guyot's Journal</persName>, published by <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple</persName> in his <hi rend="italics">Collection of Voyages
                              in the <placeName>Southern Atlantic Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>, p. 5, and p. 15. </note>
                     </ref>. Notwithstanding this coincidence, many were still of opinion that we
                     only saw an island of ice; and as the wind was very boisterous the next day,
                     and the weather extremely foggy, the point remained undertermined till the
                     16th. We had very cold weather all this time, the thermometer being at 34 1/2°,
                     and great falls of snow covering our decks. On the 16th, in the morning, we had
                     sight of the land again, and found its mountains of a vast height, covered with
                     loads of snow and ice, in most places down to the water's edge. The only parts
                     which were clear of snow were a few black and barren cliffs, and particularly
                     some huge hollow rocks, that</p>

                  <p n="924">
                     <q>_____o'er their wave-worn basis bowed.
                        <persName>Shakespeare</persName>.5</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="925">Towards the south end of this land we saw several low islands, like the
                        <placeName>New Year's islands</placeName>, which appeared to have some
                     verdure upon them, and were therefore called the <placeName>Green
                        Islands</placeName>. As it had been the main object of our voyage to explore
                     the high southern latitude, my father suggested to <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, that it would be proper to name this land after the monarch
                     who had set on foot our expedition, solely for the improvement of science, and
                     whose name ought therefore to be celebrated in both hemispheres,</p>

                  <p n="926">
                     <q>_____ Tua sectus orbis</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="927">
                     <q>Nomina ducet! Hor.6</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="928">It was accordingly honoured with the name of Southern
                        <placeName>Georgia</placeName>, which will give it importance, and continue
                     to spread a degree of lustre over it, which it cannot derive from its
                     barrenness and dreary appearance.</p>

                  <p n="929">In the afternoon we saw two rocky islands at the north end of
                        <placeName>Georgia</placeName>, which lay about a league asunder, and were
                     of a dull black colour. We steered towards them, and about <time>five
                        o'clock</time> passed in the middle between them. The northernmost was a
                     craggy cliff, nearly perpendicular, which contained the nests of many thousand
                     shags, and was named <placeName>Willis's Island</placeName>; it is situated in
                        <geo select="lat">54° S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">38° 25' W.</geo> The
                     southernmost sloped gradually to the westward, being covered on that side with
                     some grass, and with innumerable flocks of birds of all sorts, from the largest
                     albatrosses down to the least petrels, for which reason it was named
                        <placeName>Bird Island</placeName>. Great numbers of shags, pinguins,
                     divers, and other birds played about, and settled in the water around us, this
                     cold climate seeming to be perfectly agreeable to them. Several porpesses were
                     likewise noticed, and many seals were seen, which probably came to breed on
                     these inhospitable shores.</p>

                  <p n="930">We ran along the north-east coast of the land till it was dark, when we
                     brought to, and did not resume our course till <date>[Tuesday 17.]</date>the
                     next morning at <time>three o'clock</time>. The aspect of the land was
                     extremely unpromising; the mountains were the most craggy we had ever seen, and
                     formed many sharp points, between which the intervals were filled up with snow.
                     We passed a bay, which, from the number of low green islands in it, was named
                     the <placeName>Bay of Islands</placeName>, and opened another, towards which we
                     stood with the ship, having soundings at the distance of two or three miles.
                     About <time>nine o'clock</time> a boat was hoisted out, and <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName>, accompanied by one midshipman, my father, <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, and myself, went into the bay. We sounded in the
                     entrance, but found no bottom with thirty-four fathom. Upon advancing into the
                     furthest recess of the bay, we soon observed a solid mass of ice, such as is
                     found in the harbours of <placeName>Spitsbergen</placeName>
                     <ref target="#edn287">
                        <note xml:id="edn287" anchored="true"> See the Hon. <persName>captain
                              Phipp's</persName> (now <persName>lord Mulgrave's</persName>) <hi rend="italics">Voyage towards the <placeName>North Pole</placeName>
                           </hi>, 1775. </note>
                     </ref>, in the northern hemisphere. This mass of ice bore a great resemblance
                     to those detached islands, of which we saw such numbers floating upon the ocean
                     in the high southern latitudes. The shores of the bay, nearer the sea, were
                     clear of snow, but excessively dreary, and almost perpendicular. We landed in a
                     spot which was perfectly sheltered from the swell, and where the land formed a
                     long projecting point. Here we saw a number of seals assembled on a stony
                     beach, and among them a huge animal, which we had taken to be a rock at a
                     distance, but which proved to be exactly the same animal with <persName>lord
                        Anson's</persName> sea-lion. The midshipman shot it through the head whilst
                     it lay fast asleep, and we afterwards found a younger one of the same sort. It
                     was all over of a dark grey colour, with a slight olive cast, something like
                     the seals in the northern hemisphere. It likewise resembled these animals in
                     the more perfect shape of its fore feet, and the want of external ears. Its
                     nose projected far beyond the mouth, and had a loose wrinkled skin, which may
                     perhaps be occasionally puffed up when the animal is angry, and will in that
                     case form something like the crest which has been figured in the print
                     accompanying <persName>lord Anson's</persName> voyage. The animal which we
                     examined was about thirteen feet long, but in proportion, of a more slender
                     make than the sea-lion with a mane, which we saw at <placeName>Staten Land<ref target="#edn288">
                           <note xml:id="edn288" anchored="true"> This animal, or
                                 <persName>Anson's</persName> sea-lion, (<hi rend="italics">phoca
                                 leonina</hi>, Linn.) seems to be the same which the English, at
                                 <placeName>Falkland Island</placeName>, have called the clapmatch
                              seal.__See the <hi rend="italics">Philos. Transact</hi>. vol. LXVI.
                              part i.7 </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. Here we likewise found a flock of about twenty pinguins, of a
                     much greater size than any we had hitherto seen; they were thirty-nine inches
                     long, and weighed forty pounds. Their belly was of a most enormous size, and
                     covered with a vast quantity of fat. An oval spot of bright yellow, or lemon
                     colour, appears on each side of the head, and is edged with black, the rest of
                     the body being of a blackish-grey colour on the whole back, and upper-side, and
                     white on the belly, under the fins, and all the fore-part. These birds were so
                     dull, as hardly to waddle from us; we easily overtook them by running, and
                     knocked them down with sticks. When we returned on board, we found that they
                     were mentioned by that great zoologist <persName>Mr. Pennant</persName>, in the
                     Phil. Trans. by the name of Patagonian pinguins, and we likewise suppose them
                     to be the same species which the English at the <placeName>Falkland
                        Islands</placeName>, have named yellow, or king pinguins<ref target="#edn289">
                        <note xml:id="edn289" anchored="true"> See the <hi rend="italics">Philosophical Transactions</hi>, vol. LXVI. part i. </note>
                     </ref>. The seals which we found here, were more fierce, than any we had seen
                     on the New Year's Isles, and did not run out of our way. The youngest cubs
                     barked at us, and ran after our heels when we passed by them, trying to bite
                     our legs. They were all of the species which I have before named sea-bears,
                        (<hi rend="italics">ursine</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">seals</hi>, Penn.) and not a single sea-lion with a mane,
                     was to be seen among them. We climbed upon a little hummock, about eight yards
                     high, where we found two species of plants; one was the grass which grows
                     plentifully on the <placeName>New Year's Isles</placeName> (<hi rend="italics">dactylis</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">glomerata</hi>) , and the other a kind of burnet (<hi rend="italics">sanguisorba</hi>). Here <persName>captain Cook</persName>
                     displayed the British flag, and performed the ceremony of taking possession of
                     these barren rocks, " in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and his heirs for
                     ever." A volley of two or three muskets was fired into the air, to give greater
                     weight to this assertion; and the barren rocks re-echoed with the sound, to the
                     utter amazement of the seals and pinguins, the inhabitants of these newly
                     discovered dominions. The rocks consisted of a bluish grey slate, in horizontal
                     strata, of which many fragments every where covered the beaches. As far as we
                     were able to examine them, they contained no other minerals of any kind; the
                     whole country being useless, and frightfully barren in every respect. We
                     embarked soon after with a load of seals, pinguins, and shags, and leaving this
                     bay, which was named <placeName>Possession Bay</placeName>, and is situated in
                        <geo select="lat">54° 15' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">37° 15' W.</geo>
                     arrived safe on board before noon. During our stay on shore, we saw some small
                     fragments of ice floating out to sea, and heard the huge masses in the farthest
                     part of the bay, crack very loud from time to time. We continued to coast the
                     land during the two following days, and discovered several bays and head-lands
                     upon it, which were successively named <placeName>Cumberland Bay</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Cape George</placeName>, <placeName>Royal Bay</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Cape Charlotte</placeName>, and <placeName>Sandwich
                        Bay</placeName>. The appearance of the land was always nearly the same; its
                     mountains towards the south were excessively high, and divided into innumerable
                     ragged points, like the flames in a raging fire. <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName> had drawn a very masterly view of part of this coast,
                     where the horrors and caricatures of nature are faithfully copied, in that
                     great style which is peculiar to him, and which animates all his views of
                     savage countries. The drawings I here mention are engraved, and intended for
                        <placeName>captain Cook's</placeName> account of this voyage.</p>

                  <p n="931">On the 19th we reached the S. E. extremity of southern
                        <placeName>Georgia</placeName>, which we now discovered to be an island,
                     between fifty and sixty leagues in length. A rock which was named
                        <placeName>Cooper's Island</placeName>, lies off the south end, in <geo select="lat">54° 52' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">35° 50' W.</geo> We
                     discovered at the same time, an island to the south-eastward, about fourteen
                     leagues distant, of which we could not yet determine the size.</p>

                  <p n="932">
                     <date>[Friday 20.]</date>We sailed towards it on the 20th in the morning, after
                     having coasted the south end of the <placeName>Isle of Georgia</placeName>,
                     till we came in sight of the <placeName>Green Islands</placeName>, discovered
                     on the 16th. The weather had for these four days past, been extremely fair, and
                     favourable for the purpose of exploring this land; the winds had likewise been
                     gentle, and the air very mild. We had however, no sooner left the coast, than a
                     strong gale, attended with fogs and rains sprung up, which obliged us to take
                     in all our topsails; but it fortunately was of a short duration, for at
                     midnight we were becalmed. The land towards which we sailed, was so much
                     involved in fogs, that our seamen were uncertain of the situation, and
                     continued to tack from time to time, in order to avoid it. The fog continued
                     during the 21st, and 22d, and obliged us to change our course very
                     frequently.</p>

                  <p n="933">
                     <date>[Monday 23.]</date>On the 23d, the same thick weather, being attended
                     with a fresh breeze, we stood boldly on a tack, which all on board were firmly
                     persuaded, would carry us directly from the land. Instead of that, about
                        <time>eleven o'clock</time>, <persName>lieutenant Clerke</persName> saw the
                     breakers scarce half a mile ahead, and several shags came to meet us, which
                     seldom go to a greater distance from land. We now discovered that we had very
                     providentially escaped being wrecked on the land, by making the circuit of it
                     without knowing it. We put about instantly after this discovery, and stood off
                     and on all day, as well as the next, because the same kind of thick fog, with
                     frequent intervals of calm weather continued. In the evening however, the fog
                     cleared for a little while, and gave us a fair view, both of the <persName>Isle
                        of Georgia</persName>, and of the smaller one round which we had sailed. We
                     found the latter of an inconsiderable size, and surrounded with other broken
                     rocks; the whole dangerous group was therefore named <placeName>Clerke's
                        rocks</placeName>, and lies in <geo select="lat">55° S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">34° 50' W.</geo>
                     <date>[Wednesd. 25.]</date>Early on the 25th, we directed our course to the
                     eastward, and afterwards somewhat southerly, in order to make another run
                     towards the south before we returned into milder climates.</p>

                  <p n="934">It has been supposed, that all parts of this globe, including those
                     which are barren and dreary in the highest degree, are fit to become the abode
                     of men. Before we arrived at this <placeName>Island of Georgia</placeName>, we
                     had nothing to oppose to this opinion, since even the wintery shores of
                        <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName> were inhabited by human beings, who
                     were still one step removed from brutes. But the climate of <placeName>Tierra
                        del Fuego</placeName> is mild with respect to that of
                        <placeName>Georgia</placeName>, the difference in the thermometer which we
                     observed, being at least ten degrees. It has besides the advantage of producing
                     a quantity of shrubbery and wood, sufficient to supply the wants of the
                     natives, who are by that means enabled to rest sheltered from the inclemencies
                     of the air, and to light fires, which give them warmth, and may serve to make
                     their food eatable and wholesome. As <placeName>New Georgia</placeName> is
                     wholly destitute of wood, and of any other combustible to serve as a
                     succedaneum, I apprehend it would be impossible for any race of men to live
                     upon it, though they should, instead of the stupidity of the Pesserais, be
                     possessed of the ingenuity of Europeans. The summers of this new island are
                     rigorously cold, the thermometer having never risen ten degrees above the
                     freezing point, during our stay on the coast; and though we have reason to
                     suppose, that the winters are not colder in the same proportion as in our
                     hemisphere, yet it is probable there will be at least a difference of twenty or
                     thirty degrees. This I think is sufficient to kill any men who may survive the
                     summer there, supposing them provided with no other defence, than that which
                     the country affords. But <placeName>South Georgia</placeName>, besides being
                     uninhabitable, does not appear to contain any single article, for which it
                     might be visited occasionally by European ships. Seals, and sea-lions, of which
                     the blubber is accounted an article of commerce, are much more numerous on the
                     desart coasts of <placeName>south America</placeName>, the
                        <placeName>Falkland</placeName>, and the <placeName>New Year's
                        Islands</placeName>, where they may likewise be obtained at a much smaller
                     risk. If the northern ocean should ever be cleared of whales, by our annual
                     fisheries, we might then visit the other hemisphere, where these animals are
                     known to be numerous. However, there seems to be little necessity to advance so
                     far south as <placeName>New Georgia</placeName> in quest of them, since the
                     Portuguese, and the North Americans, have of late years killed numbers of them
                     on the coast of <placeName>America</placeName>, going no farther than the
                        <placeName>Falkland Islands</placeName>. It should therefore seem probable,
                     that though <placeName>Southern Georgia</placeName> may hereafter become
                     important to mankind, that period is at present so far remote, and perhaps will
                     not happen, till <placeName>Patagonia</placeName> and <placeName>Tierra del
                        Fuego</placeName> are inhabited, and civilised like
                        <placeName>Scotland</placeName> and <placeName>Sweden</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="935">
                     <date>[Thursday 26.]</date>We stood to the southward on the 26th, with a fresh
                     breeze, and the horizon tolerably clear, considering the usual weather of these
                     climates, and returned to our wonted but loathed diet of salted meat, having
                     eaten the last pinguin which we had killed in <placeName>Possession
                        Bay</placeName>; however, the expectation of a speedy arrival at the
                        <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, in some measure alleviated our
                     sufferings. On the 27th at noon we had passed the latitude of <geo select="lat">59 1/2° S.</geo> and saw several fulmars (<hi rend="italics">procellaria</hi>
                     <hi rend="italics">glacialis</hi>) which are commonly the forerunners of ice
                     in high latitudes. Accordingly in the evening, between six and seven, we saw
                     several islands of ice, and a quantity of loose ice. Fogs and wet weather set
                     in this day, which prevented our steering so much to the southward as we had
                     hitherto done. Many great masses of ice surrounded us on all sides the next
                     day, and <date>[Saturday 28.]</date>in the afternoon a large bed of small ice,
                     adjoining to several fields of ice, stopped our farther progress, greatly to
                     the satisfaction of all the crew, who were at present thoroughly tired of this
                     dreadful climate, and exhausted by perpetual watching and attendance, which the
                     frequency and sudden appearance of dangers required. We had this time
                     penetrated only a few minutes beyond <geo select="lat">60° S.</geo> and
                     gradually steered to the northward, as well as the winds, the thickness of the
                     weather, and the ice would permit. Many of our people were at this time
                     afflicted with severe rheumatic pains and colds, and some were suddenly taken
                     with fainting fits, since their unwholesome, juiceless food could not supply
                     the waste of animal spirits. The thermometer stood at 35° in these high
                     latitudes; and this degree of cold, as well as the continuance of snow-showers
                     and wet fogs, greatly retarded the recovery of our patients. However, as we now
                     steered to the northward, we were in hopes of soon reaching a milder climate,
                     fully persuaded that no farther obstacles lay in wait to try our patience. But
                     we were again doomed to experience disappointment, and discovered another
                     frozen country, which</p>

                  <p n="936">
                     <q>
                        <l> Lies dark and wild, beat with perpetual storms</l>
                        <l> Of whirlwind and dire hail; which on firm land</l>
                        <l> Thaws not, but gathers heap, and ruin seems</l>
                        <l> Of ancient pile.</l>
                        <persName>Milton</persName>.8</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="937">The discovery of this land happened on <date>[Tuesday 31.]</date>the
                     31st of January, at seven in the morning, when the weather was so hazy, that we
                     could not see four or five miles around us. We ran towards it near an hour,
                     when we were within half a mile of the rocks, which were black, cavernous, and
                     perpendicular to a vast height, inhabited by flocks of shags, and beaten by
                     dreadful breakers. Thick clouds veiled the upper parts of the mountains, but
                     one immense peak appeared towering beyond them, covered with snow. It was
                     agreed by all present, that the perpendicular height of this mountain could not
                     be far short of two miles. We sounded with 170 fathom close in shore, and then
                     put about, standing to the south, in order to weather the western point, which
                     we had now discovered. We had not run above an hour on this tack, when we saw
                     high mountains to the S. S. E. about five or six leagues distant, which, from
                     the course we had kept, we must have narrowly escaped about midnight. This
                     being the southernmost extremity of the land, my father named it
                        <placeName>Southern Thule</placeName>, a name which <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> has preserved. It is situated in <geo select="lat" n="1">59°
                        30' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="1">27° 30' W.</geo> At <time>one
                        o'clock in the afternoon</time> we put about, and stood to the northward,
                     beyond the point which we had first seen. This now appeared to be a black rock,
                     separated from a great projecting head-land. The rock was named
                        <placeName>Freezeland's Head</placeName>, from a German sailor who first
                     discovered it, and lies in <geo select="lat" n="2">58° 55' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon" n="2">27° W.</geo> The head-land, which has since been named
                        <placeName>Cape Bristol</placeName>, appeared to be connected with the
                        <placeName>Southern Thule</placeName>, by some lands which we saw very far
                     to the eastward, forming a spacious bay. <persName>Captain Cook</persName>,
                     however, did not venture to lose any time in the investigation of this coast,
                     where he was exposed to imminent danger from the violence of westerly winds. He
                     chose rather to explore its northern extremities, which besides, were doubtless
                     the most likely to be of importance to navigators. We kept at the distance of
                     two or three leagues from the land, having little winds, and seeing the coast
                     every where steep and inaccessible. The mountains appeared to be of vast
                     height, their summits being constantly wrapped in clouds, and the lower part
                     covered with snow down to the water's edge in such a manner, that we should
                     have found it difficult to pronounce whether we saw land or ice, if some hollow
                     rocks had not shewn their black and naked caverns in several places.</p>

                  <p n="938">
                     <date>[1775. February.][Wednesd. 1.]</date>We found ourselves abreast of
                     another projecting point in the morning, which <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> has since named <placeName>Cape Montague</placeName>, and
                     which seems to be connected with <placeName>Cape Bristol</placeName>, a kind of
                     bay lying between them. Beyond it we discovered another point to the north,
                     which upon our nearer approach was found to be a separate island, and named
                        <placeName>Saunders's Island</placeName>. It was not inferior in height to
                     the moutainous coast to the south of it, and was covered with snow and ice in
                     the same manner. It is situated in <geo select="lat">57° 48' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">26° 35' W.</geo>
                  </p>

                  <p n="939">
                     <date>[Thursday 2.]</date>We had little wind during night, but with the return
                     of day-light, stood to the eastward, in order to weather <placeName>Saunders's
                        Island</placeName>. On this course we saw two small islands far to the
                     northward of us, which, from the day, were named <placeName>Candlemas
                        Islands</placeName>. We could not accomplish our point with a single board,
                     but the wind being contrary, tacked all the afternoon, in order to double the
                     norther extremity of <placeName>Saunders's Island</placeName>. We came very
                     near it several times, and observed a flat point or beach running out to the
                     northward, covered with heaps of shingle, which were piled up in the wildest
                     manner, and offered nothing but sharp points and ridges to the eye. The whole
                     country had the most desolate and horrid appearance which can possibly be
                     conceived; not a single grass could be discerned upon it, and it seemed to be
                     forsaken even by the amphibious and lumpish animals which dwelt on Southern
                        <placeName>Georgia</placeName>. In short, we could not help applying to it,
                     that remarkable expression of Pliny,</p>

                  <p n="940">
                     <q>
                        <l>Pars mundi damnata a rerum naturâ, et densâ mersa caligine.</l> Hist.
                        Nat. lib. xv. c. 36.9</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="941">The wind permitted us the next day to approach the <placeName>Candlemas
                        Isles</placeName>, in order to ascertain their situation, which we found to
                     be in <geo select="lat">57° 10' S.</geo> and <geo select="lon">27° 6' W.</geo>
                     We now steered to the eastward, and lost sight of the southern land, having
                     doubled its northern extremity. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> at first gave
                     it the general name of <placeName>Snowland</placeName>, but afterwards honoured
                     it with that of <placeName>Sandwich Land</placeName>. I am inclined to believe
                     that this land has been discovered by those early navigators, who have
                     furnished the geographers with the <placeName>Gulph of St.
                        Sebastian</placeName>, and the <placeName>isle of Cressalina</placeName>. It
                     remains very doubtful, whether the different projecting points of
                        <placeName>Thule</placeName>, <placeName>Cape Bristol</placeName>, and
                        <placeName>Cape Montague</placeName>, form one connected land, or several
                     distinct islands; and this may probably continue undetermined for ages to come,
                     since an expedition to those inhospitable parts of the world, besides being
                     extremely perilous, does not seem likely to be productive of great advantages
                     to mankind. It was the object of our hazardous voyage to explore the southern
                     hemisphere to the sixtieth degree of latitude, and to ascertain the existence
                     of a southern continent in the temperate zone. Our different tracks have not
                     only rendered it evident, that a continent does not exist in the temperate
                     southern zone, but have likewise made it probable, by advancing into the frigid
                     zone to seventy one degrees south, that the space within the antarctic circle
                     is far from being every where filled up with land. The existence of such a
                     continent has been believed by the most philosophic enquirers of the present
                     age; and this opinion, though now so much invalidated, is nevertheless a proof
                     of their great intelligence, considering the few <hi rend="italics">data</hi> upon which they could proceed. Without ascertaining whether
                        <placeName>Sandwich Land</placeName> is part of a greater tract, it may not
                     be improper to mention, that one of the reasons alledged in favour of a
                     continent, has lately been overthrown by experiments. It has always been
                     supposed that the ice, which is seen floating in immense quantities on the sea,
                     must be formed on shore from snow or fresh water; but it has now been proved
                     that sea-water will freeze, and that the ice which is thus formed does not
                     contain any particles of salt, except where it comes in contact with the water,
                     which introduces itself into its pores and interstices<ref target="#edn290">
                        <note xml:id="edn290" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr. Nairne's</persName>
                           Experiments in the LXVI. vol. of the <hi rend="italics">Philosophical
                              Transactions</hi>, part i. </note>
                     </ref>.10 </p>

                  <p n="942">The barrenness of <placeName>Sandwich Land</placeName>, the gradual
                     encrease of the nights, and the approach of a more rigorous season in these
                     high latitudes, added to the consideration that we had a long run to make
                     before we arrived at another place of refreshment, and that our provisions were
                     almost expended, induced <persName>captain Cook</persName> to abandon the
                     further investigation of the coast, and to steer to the eastward, nearly in the
                     parallel of <geo select="lat">58° S.</geo> where we had frequent snow showers,
                     saw many ice-islands every day, and, contrary to our former observations, found
                     the northerly winds colder than those from the south; on which a strong
                     presumption may be founded, that there is no land in the last mentioned
                     direction.</p>

                  <p n="943">
                     <date>[Friday 10.]</date>The sour krout, that excellent antiscorbutic food, of
                     which sixty large casks were put on board our ship, was now entirely consumed,
                     and the want of it was severely felt from the captain down to the sailor. It
                     enabled us to eat our portion of salt meat, of which it corrected the septic
                     quality. The wish for a speedy release from this nauseous diet now became
                     universal, and our continuance in the high latitudes of <geo select="lat">58°</geo> and <geo select="lat">57°</geo> was disagreeable to all on board.
                     On the 15th we bore away to the northward, having crossed the meridian of
                        <placeName>Greenwich</placeName>, and on the 17th, at noon, reached the
                     parallel of <persName>M. Bouvet's</persName> discovery of <placeName>Cape
                        Circumcision</placeName>, when we again ran to the eastward that we might
                     not miss it. The weather was favourable for the purpose; we had a fair wind,
                     and could see to the distance of eight or ten leagues. On the 19th, in the
                     morning, we crossed the place where this cape is laid down by <persName>M. des
                        Loziers Bouvet</persName>, according to his own journal<ref target="#edn291">
                        <note xml:id="edn291" anchored="true"> See <persName>Mr.
                              Dalrymple's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Collection of Voyages in the Southern
                                 <placeName>Atlantic Ocean</placeName>
                           </hi>, 1775. </note>
                     </ref>, without having at that time the least signs of land, or passing more
                     than four or five islands of ice in the course of the whole day. We continued
                     to run on in the same parallel till <date>[Wednesd. 22.]</date>the 22d, having
                     then explored six degrees of longitude to the west of <persName>M.
                        Bouvet's</persName> supposed land, and about seven degrees to the east of
                     it. <persName>Captain Furneaux</persName> likewise, after sailing over the
                     space where the <placeName>Gulph of St. Sebastian</placeName> is delineated in
                     the charts, and passing between our two discoveries of
                        <placeName>Georgia</placeName> and <placeName>Sandwich Land</placeName>,
                     crossed the meridian of <placeName>Cape Circumcision</placeName>, in the
                     latitude of <geo select="lat">54° S.</geo> without meeting with land. From the
                     joint authority of these two tracks, we have great room to suppose, that
                        <persName>Mr. des Loziers Bouvet</persName> saw only a field of ice, with
                     such huge mountainous islands of ice upon it, as we fell in with on the 14th of
                     December, 1772<ref target="#edn292">
                        <note xml:id="edn292" anchored="true"> See vol. I. p. 98. </note>
                     </ref>. Some of our officers were at that time strongly of opinion that they
                     saw land, as the ice bore a striking resemblance to it, and the French captain
                     might be deceived in the same manner. <persName>Captain Cook</persName> was
                     unwilling to leave it in doubt whether there was land or not in the situation
                     of that field of ice seen in the beginning of our voyage; and therefore
                     directed his course across it on the 23d, without meeting with any obstacles in
                     his way, nor seeing a single island of ice in the same spot which had been
                     covered with immense floating masses about two years and two months before.
                     Being now well assured that there was no considerable land in this part of the
                     ocean, we steered to the northward, in order to make the best of our way
                     towards the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>. The winds being
                     north-westerly, and blowing very fresh, obliged us to make a great deviation to
                     the east of our proper course, <date>[1775. March.][Wednesd. 1.]</date>till the
                     first of March, when we could steer directly towards the Cape. The wind,
                     however, soon shifted, and blew from its former quarter at several intervals.
                     Its frequent changes occasioned great discontent among our ship's company,
                     whose expectations of putting an end to their distresses, were wound up to the
                     highest pitch. The clouds had perhaps never before been so attentively
                     examined, in order to find some prognostics of a fair wind in their appearance,
                     and the general uneasiness and impatience at an unfavourable change can
                     scarcely be described. Our voyage had now lasted twenty-seven months after
                     leaving the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, since which time we had
                     not touched at any European port, and lived chiefly upon salt provisions. The
                     sum total of all the days which we had spent on shore at different islands, and
                     at very great intervals of time, did not amount to more than one hundred and
                     eighty, or about six months. This was the only time of refreshment in the
                     course of our long voyage, and yet during part of this, especially the last
                     year's cruize, we obtained no fresh provisions at several islands. The run from
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName> towards the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName> was by far the longest and most difficult which we had ever
                     made; for the trifling refreshments which we obtained in <placeName>Christmas
                        Sound</placeName>, and at the <placeName>New Year's Islands</placeName>, did
                     not afford the crew more than four or five fresh meals. If we add to this, the
                     deficiency of such a salutary article of provision as sour krout, and the
                     continual progressive decay of our salt meat, it cannot be very surprising,
                     that towards the latter end of this run, the hardships of our unnatural
                     situation should become more intolerable than ever. Several obvious reflections
                     likewise encreased our uneasiness, in proportion as we advanced towards a place
                     which had some intercourse with <placeName>Europe</placeName>. All those who
                     had left behind them relations and parents, were apprehensive that they had
                     lost some of the number during their absence; and it was more than probable,
                     that this interval of time would have dissolved many valuable connections,
                     diminished the number of our friends, and robbed us of the comforts which we
                     used to find in their society.</p>

                  <p n="944">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 15.]</date>Notwithstanding the frequent changes of wind, we
                     advanced to the northward so far, that we began to change our cloaths on the
                     15th, being then between <geo select="lat">35°</geo> and <geo select="lat">36°
                        S.</geo> The next morning, at seven, we saw a ship to the windward of us,
                     and about three hours afterwards we came in sight of another; and the eagerness
                     with which every person on board bent his eyes towards these welcome objects,
                     was the strongest proof of that universal longing for an intercourse with
                     Europeans, which, though hitherto silent, now broke out into loud and fervent
                     wishes. It was thought proper to hoist Dutch colours, upon which the ship in
                     sight hoisted the same; we then hoisted the British flag, and fired a gun to
                     leeward,11 but the stranger still continued to shew the first. As we were now
                     arrived in a part of the sea frequented by European ships, <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> called together all his officers and sailors, and in the
                     name of the Admiralty board, demanded their journals and log-books, which were
                     all packed up and sealed. Those who did not belong to the military
                        establishment<ref target="#edn293">
                        <note xml:id="edn293" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, my
                           father, and myself. </note>
                     </ref>, were not subject to this restriction, but preserved their papers, being
                     only requested not to divulge the particular situations of our late
                     discoveries, previous to their arrival in <placeName>England</placeName>. The
                     zealous and candid concern for the advancement of the sciences, which animates
                     the British government, has not suffered them to conceal the improvement which
                     different branches of knowledge have received under their auspices; and it were
                     to be wished, that so laudable and generous an example, might be followed by
                     other maritime powers, who at present seem to steal into the <placeName>South
                        Seas</placeName>, and to be ashamed of owning that they have been there.</p>

                  <p n="945">The ship in sight seemed to be a homeward bound Dutch Indiaman, and
                     held the same course with us, but we gradually came up with her. <date>[Friday
                        17.]</date>On the 17th in the morning we sounded, and found bottom with
                     fifty-five fathom, being arrived on the bank which runs off the south end of
                        <placeName>Africa</placeName>. Some fishing lines were thrown overboard, and
                     a fish called a pollack was caught. In the evening we made the coast of
                        <placeName>Africa</placeName>, which here consisted of low sandy hummocks,
                     and on which we perceived several fires. <date>[Saturday 18.]</date>The next
                     morning a boat was hoisted out, and sent on board the Indiaman, which was now
                     about five miles off. Our people returned in a few hours with the welcome news,
                     that there was universal peace in <placeName>Europe</placeName>. The pleasure
                     of this intelligence, was however, in a great measure soured by an account of
                     the massacre of the Adventure's boat's crew. The Dutch captain having been long
                     at sea from <placeName>Bengal</placeName>, lamented that he had no refreshments
                     to offer us. In the afternoon, the weather being very fair, and the breeze
                     freshening, we got sight of two Swedish, one Danish, and an English ship, which
                     glided along with all their sails set, and colours flying, and offered to our
                     eyes one of the most pleasing sights which we had beheld for some time past.
                        <date>[Sunday 19.]</date>The next morning, the English ship bore down to us,
                     and <persName>lieutenant Clerke</persName>, with my father, and a midshipman,
                     went on board of her. In the afternoon, a strong breeze set in, our boat
                     returned, and the Indiaman carefully stood off to sea, whilst we proceeded till
                     we were close in shore. This ship was the True Briton, <persName>captain
                        Broadley</persName>, on her return from <placeName>China</placeName>. Our
                     gentlemen spoke in the strongest terms of the hearty hospitality with which
                     they had been received, and invited to a <hi rend="italics">plain</hi>
                     dinner. Our readers may imagine with what avidity three famished
                     circumnavigators, who had not seen fresh meat for six weeks past, fell upon a
                     dish of fattened Chinese quails, and a delicious goose, which their host
                     reckoned a very homely fare. On relating how long they had been absent from any
                     European settlement, how long they had lived upon salt-beef, and how oft they
                     had regaled themselves with seals, albatrosses, and pinguins, the captain and
                     his mates dropt their knives and forks, and in pure pity to the strangers,
                     resigned all pretensions to their dinner. At parting, captain Broadley
                     presented them with a large fat pig, and several geese, on which we dined the
                     two following days. We passed <placeName>Cape Agulhas</placeName> on the 20th,
                     and were near being blown far to leeward of the Cape, by a very hard gale, if
                     we had not discovered the land through the haze early on the 21st. We hauled up
                     for it, and carrying more sail than we had ever ventured to do, in the course
                     of the whole voyage, we came safe to an anchor in <placeName>Table
                        Bay</placeName>, on the <date>[Wednesd. 22; or Tuesday 21.]</date>22d in the
                     morning, which we found was only the 21st, according to the reckoning of the
                     people on shore, we having gained a whole day by sailing round the world to the
                     eastward.</p>

                  <p n="946">
                     <q>Errabant acti fatis maria omnia circum. <persName>Virgil</persName>.12</q>
                  </p>

               </div>
               <div n="7" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VII.<lb/>
                     Second stay at the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>.--Run from
                        thence to the <placeName>Islands of St. Helena</placeName> and
                           <placeName>Ascension</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="947">
                     <date>[1775. March.][Tuesday 21.]</date>WE found the <placeName>Table
                        Bay</placeName> full of ships at our arrival, amongst which was one English
                     Indiaman, the Ceres, <persName>captain Newt</persName>. As soon as we were seen
                     in the entrance of the bay, and known by our bleached rigging and anti-quated
                     appearance, <persName>captain Newt</persName> very politely sent one of his
                     mates with a boat load of the best refreshments, and with an offer of his
                     assistance in case our crew had been in distress. Having been so long at sea,
                     we were touched with this generous conduct, and with no small degree of
                     pleasure and satisfaction, felt ourselves once more in the company of men.1 We
                     landed soon after, and having paid our devoirs to the governor, and the
                     principal officers of the company, retired to the house of <persName>Mr.
                        Brand</persName>, where we were received with that hearty welcome, which
                     always makes men forget national characters, and convinces them, that real
                     worth is not confined to certain climates or nations. The weather was so
                     intensely hot this day, that we did not remember to have ever felt such a
                     degree of heat in the course of our whole voyage. Notwithstanding this, we
                     dined, according to the Dutch custom, at <time>one o'clock</time>, or during
                     the time of the greatest heat, and devoured our meal with a ravenous appetite,
                     which painted our past distresses in more lively colours, and, as it were, with
                     greater efficacy, than all the powers of language. However, as it would have
                     been dangerous to our emaciated bodies to indulge our voracity too far, we were
                     content to rise from table with a good appetite. We soon found the benefit of
                     this proceeding, and visibly regained strength and healthy looks during our
                     stay at the Cape. The officers of the ship took lodgings on shore the next day;
                     but having neglected to take the same precaution, and eating immoderately at
                     first, were presently surfeited, and continued to labour under a want of
                     appetite and sickness, which made their situation truly tantalizing.
                        <persName>Captain Cook</persName> sent two or three scorbutic patients to
                     the hospital, these being the only persons who were not able to do their duty.
                     The rest were soon restored to perfect health by a constant supply of
                     refreshments, among which, a kind of brown rye-loaves, and all sorts of greens,
                     were doubtless the most efficacious.</p>

                  <p n="948">The pleasure of receiving some intelligence from all those who were
                     united to us by the ties of blood and affection, was inexpressible; and the
                     satisfaction of conversing with Europeans, after our long voyage, revived our
                     spirits, which a thousand incidents had conspired to depress. We passed our
                     time very agreeably, and assiduously collected, from heaps of old gazettes, the
                     history of those years, during which we had been banished, as it were, from all
                     the world. This settlement being resorted to, in summer and autumn, by ships of
                     all nations, appeared at present in a more flourishing light, than during our
                     former stay in 1772. Besides the great annual fleet of Dutch Indiamen, we found
                     here several French vessels from the <placeName>Isle of France</placeName>,2
                     and likewise one from <placeName>Europe</placeName>, commanded by <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName>, who had formerly been at <placeName>New
                        Zeeland</placeName>. Several Danish and two Swedish Indiamen also came in; a
                     Portuguese ship of war lay here several days, and three Spanish frigates, one
                     homeward bound from <placeName>Manilla</placeName>, and two going out to that
                     settlement, passed several weeks in this bay. The great events which had
                     happened in Europe during our absence, crouded upon us unexpectedly. Sweden
                     delivered from the yoke of aristocratical tyranny, by a young hero, emulous of
                        <persName>Gustave-Vasa</persName>; the barbaric darkness, which in the East
                     of <placeName>Europe</placeName> and <placeName>Asia</placeName> had baffled
                     the Herculean efforts of <persName>Peter</persName>, dispelled by a princess,
                     who, like the wonder of the polar sky, spreads luminous beams, which turn night
                     into day; lastly, <placeName>Poland</placeName> restored to peace, from anarchy
                     and the horrors of civil war, by the united efforts of the leaving powers in
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>; and <persName>Frederick the Great</persName>
                     resting from his triumphs, and sacrificing to the Muses in the shade of his
                     laurels, revered and beloved even by his former foes! Such were the great and
                     unexpected prospects, which all at once opened to our eyes, which promised
                     general happiness to the human race, and seemed to announce a period of time,
                     when mankind will appear in a more exalted light than ever!</p>

                  <p n="949">
                     <date>[1775. April.][Friday 7.]</date>During our stay at the Cape, we made an
                     excursion to <placeName>False Bay</placeName>, where <placeName>Mr.
                        Brand</placeName> commanded for the Dutch East India Company. The heat of
                     the summer had, in many places, darkened all the tints of green, on that
                     immense variety of low shrubs and plants, which grow in
                        <placeName>Africa</placeName>. However we found a great number of species in
                     flower, with which we filled our herbals. The roads are very bad, consisting of
                     deep sand in many places, and of rugged heaps of the hardest stones, in the
                     neighbourhood of <placeName>False Bay</placeName>. In our way we saw great
                     coveys of a species of partridge, which the Dutch improperly call pheasants.
                     They are not very shy, and may easily be taken alive, and tamed. As there are
                     many parts about the Cape where these partridges do not breed, the Dutch have
                     found the method of stocking such spots with them. They take several pair of
                     tame partridges, dip them in water, and strew them with ashes, and thus put
                     them among the bushes, with their heads under the wing. I do not doubt but that
                     many readers will call in question the success of this simple manӕuvre; but I
                     have only to add, that I heard it from persons whose sincerity I had no reason
                     to suspect.</p>

                  <p n="950">The environs of <placeName>False Bay</placeName> are more dreary than
                     those of <placeName>Table Bay</placeName>, the country being almost entirely
                     desart, if we except the commander's house, two or three other houses belonging
                     to private persons, and some magazines and work-shops, the property of the
                     Company. The colour of the mountains, however, is less gloomy, and the variety
                     of plants and birds which we found there is surprising. Antelopes likewise
                     reside in great numbers, some among the most inaccessible cliffs, and others
                     amidst the small dry grasses and shrubberies in more level spots. We spent a
                     whole morning in climbing these hills, and returned excessively fatigued from
                     the immoderate heat of the day. On the mountains we saw several over-hanging
                     rocks, forming small caverns, where the Dutch frequently pass the night, when
                     they leave the town to shoot antelopes.</p>

                  <p n="951">
                     <placeName>Simmon's Bay</placeName> is that part of <placeName>False
                        Bay</placeName>, where the ships are best sheltered from the violence of the
                     N. W. winds, which prevail here during the winter months. A pier close to the
                     commander's house is built out into the sea, where the boats can take in water
                     and all kinds of stores, with the same facility as in <placeName>Table
                        Bay</placeName>. Fish of the best and most palatable sorts are caught here
                     in great plenty, and all kinds of refreshments are easily procured from the
                     plantations on the isthmus, or from the <placeName>Cape-Town</placeName>
                     itself, which is only twelve miles distant. The arrival of the ships draws
                     several inhabitants from thence to <placeName>False Bay</placeName>, who
                     confine themselves in narrow lodgings, for the sake of enjoying the company of
                     strangers. This peculiar situation affords many favourable opportunities
                     towards forming more intimate connections, which, we were told, the strangers
                     seldom neglect, especially as beauty and vivacity are not uncommon at the
                     Cape.</p>

                  <p n="952">After a stay of three days, we returned to the
                        <placeName>Cape-Town</placeName>, where we passed our time in examining the
                     animals at the Company's garden, and searching all the furriers shops, in order
                     to collect an assortment of antelopes skin. We were likewise favoured with the
                     sight of a live <hi rend="italics">ourang-outang</hi>, or ape, from the
                        <placeName>island of Java</placeName>, of that species which has the honour
                     to be adopted as a near relation by several philosophers.3 This animal was
                     about two feet six inches high, and preferred crawling on all fours, though it
                     could likewise sit and walk upon the hind-legs. Its fingers and toes were
                     remarkably long, and its thumbs very short, its belly prominent, and its face,
                     which was as ugly as it can well be imagined, had a nose more resembling the
                     human than that of other monkies. This animal has, I am told, been since
                     brought over to the menagerie of the Prince of Orange, at the Hague<ref target="#edn294">
                        <note xml:id="edn294" anchored="true"> This creature died at the Hague in
                           January 1777; but, through the gross ignorance and canine malice of the
                           keeper, the ablest anatomists in <placeName>Holland</placeName> were
                           disappointed in the hope of dissecting it. He cut off its head, in order
                           to prevent their examining the organs of speech; and its hands and feet,
                           to preclude the possibility of comparing the phalanges with the human and
                           other skeletons. When we consider, through whose interest the inspector
                           of that princely collection at the Hague was appointed, we cannot wonder,
                           that he was a stranger to liberality of sentiment.4 </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="953">We became acquainted, in the course of our stay, with <persName>M.
                        Crozet</persName>, who, attended by all his officers, dined with us, upon
                        <persName>captain Cook's</persName> invitation, and entertained us with many
                     curious particulars relating to his voyage. We were afterwards introduced to
                     the Spanish officers, amongst whom there were several whose accomplishments and
                     extensive knowledge do great honour to their corps. They visited our
                     astronomer, <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, and were much pleased with the
                     time-keepers, or new-invented watches, which they saw in his possession,
                     complaining, at the same time, of the inaccuracy of all the astronomical
                     instruments which they obtained from their correspondents at
                        <placeName>London</placeName>. <persName>Mr. Wales</persName> readily parted
                     with one of his sextants to them, having now, in a manner, completed the
                     voyage; but <persName>captain Cook</persName> refused to have any communication
                     with them, and shunned them on all occasions, from what motives we were at a
                     loss to determine. Their frigates were reckoned very fine ships by our
                     officers; that homeward bound was the Juno, commanded by <persName>Don Juan
                        Arraos</persName>; the others, going to <placeName>Manila</placeName>, were
                     the Astrea, <persName>captain Don Antonio Albornos</persName>, and the Venus,
                        <persName>captain Don Gabriel Guerna</persName>. The Dutch formerly did not
                     suffer the Spaniards to land at the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>,
                     and discouraged them, as much as lay in their power, from touching there,
                     keeping strictly to the Pope's bull, which points out the limits of navigation,
                     and shared the world between the crowns of <placeName>Portugal</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Spain</placeName>. They have, however, of late adopted more
                     Protestant principles, and will soon drop entirely the aversion which they have
                     long expressed towards the Spaniards, as they already feel no reluctance in
                     taking their superfluous dollars.</p>

                  <p n="954">Our ship's company being well refreshed, and in perfect health, and the
                     ship being likewise refitted and painted, we took on board a quantity of
                     provisions, to serve on our return, and prepared to sail with the first fair
                     wind. After taking leave of all our friends, and particularly of <persName>Dr.
                        Sparrman</persName>, who had shared the perils and distresses of our voyage,
                     and whose heart had endeared him to all who knew him, we came on board
                        <date>[Thursday 27.]</date>on the 27th in the morning<ref target="#edn295">
                        <note xml:id="edn295" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Dr. Sparrman</persName> arrived in
                              <placeName>Sweden</placeName> in July 1776, having spent a year on a
                           most hazardous and fatiguing expedition into the interior parts of
                              <placeName>Africa</placeName>, where he penetrated farther than
                              <persName>Dr. Thunberg</persName>, and all who went before him; and
                           made many important discoveries, which he intends to communicate to the
                           public.5 </note>
                     </ref>. About noon, the Dutton Indiaman, <persName>captain Rice</persName>, got
                     under sail, and we followed her example, after saluting the fort. The Spanish
                     frigate, the Juno, saluted us with nine guns; which unexpected mark of
                     politeness our gunners returned a full quarter of an hour afterwards. A Danish
                     Indiaman, <persName>captain Hanssen</persName>, likewise saluted us with eleven
                     guns. Both these ships got under sail immediately after, and soon left us far
                     behind.</p>

                  <p n="955">We passed through the northern part of the bay, between
                        <placeName>Robben Island<ref target="#edn296">
                           <note xml:id="edn296" anchored="true"> This is called <placeName>Pinguin
                                 Island</placeName> in English charts. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>and the main. This island is a barren sandy spot, where many
                     murderers and other miscreants are confined by order of the Dutch India
                     Company. Among them however there are some unhappy victims to the merciless
                     ambition of these merchants. We need only mention the king of Madurè, who,
                     deprived of his possessions, and driven to the greatest horrors of despair,
                     here lingers out a burthensome life, in the despicable condition of a common
                        slave<ref target="#edn297">
                        <note xml:id="edn297" anchored="true"> I forbear to repeat the horrid story
                           of this unfortunate monarch, which reflects indelible dishonour on his
                           inhuman tormentors. It is indeed very fully and feelingly related in a
                           book little known, intitled a <hi rend="italics">Voyage to the
                                 <placeName>East Indies</placeName>, in 1747 and 1748</hi>,
                           containing an account of <placeName>St. Helena</placeName>,
                              <placeName>Java</placeName>, <placeName>Batavia</placeName>, the Dutch
                           Government, and of <placeName>China</placeName>; interspersed with
                           anecdotes, and illustrated with copper-plates. 8vo.<placeName>
                              London</placeName>, 1762. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="956">
                     <q>_________________escape who can,</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="957">
                     <q>When man's great foe assumes the shape of man.
                           <persName>Cumberland</persName>.6</q>
                  </p>

                  <p n="958">On the 28th, in the morning, a man was found concealed in the hold, and
                     proper enquiry being made, it was discovered that one of the quarter-masters
                     had conducted him thither some days before, and shared his daily allowance with
                     him. His good-nature was punished with a dozen lashes, and another dozen
                     applied on the stranger's back as a welcome. He was a native of his majesty's
                     German dominions, who having been kidnapped into the Dutch East Indian service,
                     had applied to <persName>captain Cook</persName> to take him under his
                     protection. But it being deemed improper to protect all his majesty's subjects
                     alike, he had been reduced to the necessity of coming on board by stealth, in
                     order to escape from a service to which he had been unjustly forced. He soon
                     proved to be one of the most industrious men in the whole ship, and gave our
                     crew a good idea of their Hanoverian fellow-subjects.</p>

                  <p n="959">We shaped our course directly for the <placeName>island of St.
                        Helena</placeName>,7 as soon as we had cleared the land about
                        <placeName>Table Bay</placeName>. The Dutton Indiaman kept company with us,
                     her captain relying on the superior accuracy of our computations; it being
                     customary with all <placeName>India</placeName> ships, first to run down the
                     latitude, and then to bear away for the island upon a parallel. <date>[1775.
                        May.][Monday 15.]</date>We made the island right a-head on the 15th of May,
                     early in the morning, and came to an anchor at midnight in the usual
                     anchoring-place of <placeName>James's Bay</placeName>. As we ran along the
                     south-eastern shore, we found it of a considerable height, and consisting of
                     perpendicular porous rocks, of a brown and blackish colour, which in some
                     places appeared to be hollowed out by the continual dashing of the waves
                     against them<ref target="#edn298">
                        <note xml:id="edn298" anchored="true"> The description of these cavities, in
                              <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Compilation</hi>, vol. III. p. 796, must be
                           considered as a poetical flight. </note>
                     </ref>.</p>

                  <p n="960">
                     <date>[Tuesday 16.]</date>Early the next morning our ship was saluted from
                        <placeName>James's Fort</placeName>, which is the principal fort in the bay,
                     and as soon as we answered it, the Dutton also saluted. The town, which lay
                     before us, had a steep dreary mountain on each side, which looked more burnt
                     and desolate than <placeName>Easter Island</placeName> itself. However, at the
                     head of the valley between them we perceived some green mountains, and in the
                     town itself two coco-palms rose behind the fort. After breakfast we landed at a
                     flight of steps newly constructed, but which had at all times been much wanted,
                     as the surf breaks in with great violence on every part of the shore. We walked
                     between a huge impending rock and a parapet wall which faces the sea, to a gate
                     with a draw-bridge, defended by small batteries. It led to a very considerable
                     battery fronting an esplanade, with a shady walk of banian-trees (<hi rend="italics">ficus religiosa</hi>). Here we passed another gate, and
                     entered the governor's house, which is likewise fortified, and forms a kind of
                     castle. The governor, <persName>Mr. Skottowe</persName>, received
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName> with the greatest marks of distinction, a
                     salute of thirteen guns being fired on his arrival at the house. Soon after,
                     the passengers from on board the Dutton<ref target="#edn299">
                        <note xml:id="edn299" anchored="true"> They were the Hon.
                              <persName>Frederick Stuart</persName>, son to the earl of
                              <placeName>Bute</placeName>, <persName>J. Graham</persName>, Esq. late
                           in the council of <placeName>Bengal</placeName>, and his lady,
                              <persName>J. Laurel</persName>, Esq. __
                           __<persName>Johnson</persName>, Esq. and his lady, <persName>colonel
                              Macleane</persName>, and several others. <persName>Mr.
                              Graham</persName> is since dead. </note>
                     </ref> likewise came to visit the governor. This worthy and generous veteran,
                     who has been crippled in his country's service, took every opportunity to make
                     our stay on the island agreeable, and, in particular, to facilitate our
                     researches as naturalists. We were in the course of the day introduced to the
                     principal officers of the Company in the town, who received us with a degree of
                     easy politeness, peculiar to men of liberal principles. The governor's house
                     contains several spacious and convenient apartments, which are particularly
                     agreeable in this hot climate, on account of their loftiness. Its outside is,
                     however, very plain, as are all the buildings in the town, not excepting the
                     church, which is newly built of lime-stone found on the island. A small garden,
                     at the back of the governor's house, contains a few shady walks, and some
                     curious East Indian trees, among which is the Barringtonia. The barracks of the
                     garrison, which is here supported by the East India Company, are situated
                     farther in the valley; as is likewise an hospital, with a small orchard, from
                     whence the sick are supplied with greens, and where they are allowed to walk.
                     Several other buildings belonging to the Company are situated in the same
                     valley, where, notwithstanding the sea-breeze, we felt the heat excessive,
                     being confined and reverberated by a high barren mountain on each side, which
                     must make the residence in town highly disagreeable and gloomy. Many of the
                     principal inhabitants open their houses for the reception of strangers who come
                     on shore at this place from the <placeName>India</placeName> ships. The terms
                     are here nearly the same as at the Cape; but the produce of so small an island
                     as <placeName>St. Helena</placeName>, will not allow of that provision of good
                     cheer, for which the Dutch colony is famous over all the world. We were
                     entertained by <persName>Mr. Mason</persName>, a very worthy old man, to whom
                     this settlement owes some of its best and most amiable inhabitants. Having
                     taken our lodgings, we went to dine with the governor; and the spirit with
                     which the conversation was carried on, gave a convincing proof, that the means
                     of acquiring useful knowledge, from a store of good books, were by no means
                     neglected among the inhabitants. <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth's</persName> account
                     of <persName>captain Cook's</persName> first voyage round the world, in the
                     Endeavour, had reached this island some time before; it had been eagerly
                     perused, and several articles, relative to this settlement, were now taken
                     notice of with great good humour and pleasant raillery. The total want of
                     wheelbarrows, and the ill-treatment of the slaves, which are spoken of in that
                        account<ref target="#edn300">
                        <note xml:id="edn300" anchored="true"> See
                              <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Compilation</hi>, vol. III. p. 797. There are many
                           wheelbarrows and several carts on the island, some of which seemed to be
                           studiously placed before <persName>captain Cook's</persName> lodgings
                           every day.8 The treatment of slaves is also misrepresented; they have not
                           that pernicious influence on the education of the inhabitants, which is
                           but too frequent at the Cape, and which there fans the fire caused by the
                           heat of the climate. </note>
                     </ref>, were reckoned particularly injurious, and <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> was called upon to defend himself. <persName>Mrs.
                        Skottowe</persName>, the sprightliest lady on the island, displayed to
                     advantage her witty and satirical talents, from which there was no other escape
                     left, than to lay the blame on the absent philosophers whose papers had been
                     consulted.</p>

                  <p n="961">Early the next morning, the Hon. <persName>Mr. Stuart</persName>,
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, and myself, took an airing on the hills.
                     We rode up that which lies to the westward, and is named the
                        <placeName>Ladder-hill</placeName>. The road, which has been lately made,
                     ascends in zigzag along its steep sides, and is very easy of ascent. Its
                     breadth is nine feet, being enclosed on the declivity by a wall about three
                     feet high, made of the same stone of which the whole mountain consists. This is
                     nothing but a heap of lava, crumbling and decaying into a brown earth in some
                     parts, whilst in others it forms huge masses of black cavernous slags, which,
                     in a few instances, seemed to be somewhat vitreous. Many rocks of this kind
                     hang over the road, and sometimes roll down to the terror and great risk of the
                     inhabitants, being frequently detached by goats, which came to brouze there;
                     but the soldiers of the garrison have received orders to shoot those animals as
                     often as they appear on these eminences; and no other command is obeyed with
                     greater alacrity, because they are generally permitted to feast upon the goat
                     which they have killed. We proceeded into the country along the summit of this
                     hill, about half a mile, when all at once appeared one of the finest prospects
                     we had ever seen. It consisted of several sloping hillocks, covered with rich
                     verdure, and interspersed with fertile vallies, which contained gardens,
                     orchards, and various plantations. Many pastures surrounded by enclosures of
                     stone, were filled with a small, but fine breed of cattle, and with English
                     sheep; and every valley was provided with a little rivulet, many of which
                     probably take their rise near two high mountains in the midst of the island,
                     which are frequently involved in clouds. We crossed several hills, and looked
                     down into <placeName>Sandy Bay</placeName>, which is a small cove situated on
                     the opposite part of the island, and defended by a battery. The view was here
                     romantic, the mountains being covered with thick wild woods to their summits,
                     and several of them, especially that named <placeName>Diana's Peak</placeName>,
                     rising in the most elegant forms. The rocks and stones in this higher part of
                     the island, were quite different from those in the valley which we had left.
                     Below they bore evident marks of the existence of a former volcano; but here
                     above, they consisted of a dark grey clayey stone in strata, or in some places
                     of lime-stone, and in others of an unctuous soft stone, like soap-rock<ref target="#edn301">
                        <note xml:id="edn301" anchored="true"> These observations do not agree with
                           those in <persName>Dr. Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Compilation</hi>, vol. III. p. 795. That volcanos
                           are always seated in the highest mountains of the country where they are
                           found, is an opinion contradicted by many facts; and the correspondence
                           of angles in opposite mountains, is not more evident to critical
                           observers, than landscapes on Florentine marbles. <persName>Dr.
                              Hawkesworth</persName> has generally been unfortunate in his remarks
                           on Nature, as well as in his philosophical digressions, and often
                           misunderstood <persName>M. Pauw</persName> and <persName>de
                              Buffon</persName>, from whom he has freely copied without making the
                           least acknowledgment. If the reader is desirous of knowing the true state
                           of volcanos, we will venture to refer him to Ferber's <hi rend="italics">letters to <persName>Baron Born</persName>
                           </hi>, <placeName>London</placeName>, 1776. Raspe <hi rend="italics">Specimen Globi Terraquei</hi>, &amp;c. Amsterd. 1763. Also
                              <persName>Mr. Raspe's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Account of some German volcanos</hi>,
                              <placeName>London</placeName>, 1776. </note>
                     </ref>. The soil which covers these strata, is in many places a rich mould,
                     from six to ten inches deep, and a variety of plants thrive in it with
                     luxuriance. I found several shrubs on this excursion, which I had seen in no
                     other part of the world, and among them were those which the inhabitants named
                     cabbage-trees, gum-trees, and red-wood; the former thrive in places where the
                     ground is very moist; but the latter are always found on the ridge of hills
                     where the soil is dry<ref target="#edn302">
                        <note xml:id="edn302" anchored="true"> This difference is consequently not
                           owing to the diversity of the climate, in various parts of the island. I
                           have seen all these plants growing at short distances asunder, and the
                           island upon the whole is not so immensely high, as to admit of several
                           climates. See <persName>Hawkesworth's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Compilation</hi>, vol. III. p. 796. </note>
                     </ref>. The cabbage-tree is one of the indigenous species, and has rather large
                     leaves; but after many repeated enquiries, I found that it was never made use
                     of any other way, than as fuel, and that no reason could be assigned why it has
                     obtained that name. It must not be confounded with the cabbage-tree of
                        <placeName>America</placeName>, <placeName>India</placeName>, and the
                        <placeName>South Seas</placeName>, which is a species of palm.</p>

                  <p n="962">We were thoroughly wetted several times by smart showers, after each of
                     which the heat of the sun dried us in a few minutes. We stopped every slave
                     whom we met on the road, in order to enquire of him what treatment he received
                     from his master; being desirous to know whether the published accounts were
                     more to be relied upon, than those of the inhabitants. In general, we obtained
                     such answers as were favourable to these happy islanders, and removed the blame
                     which had formerly been thrown on them. A few indeed complained that they were
                     sparingly supplied with food, but this is a disadvantage under which I am told,
                     even their masters sometimes labour, being obliged to eat salt provisions at
                     certain seasons. The situation of the soldiers appeared to be by far more
                     irksome, they being confined to constant salt-diet, of which the East-India
                     Company, it is said, allows very scanty portions. Their pay is also very small,
                     and made much less before it comes from <placeName>England</placeName>. Those
                     who are most industrious, obtain leave at times to work for the inhabitants,
                     and earn their subsistence by carrying wood for fuel, from the mountains to the
                     town. We saw some old grey-headed men employed in this manner, who seemed very
                     chearful, till we prevailed upon them to speak of their hardships, which they
                     could not do without emotion. All however mentioned their governor with great
                     affection, who is indeed generally esteemed on the island, and has the good of
                     the settlement much at heart.</p>

                  <p n="963">We returned into the town, descending along the slope of the hill,
                     opposite to that by which we went up, and found ourselves much refreshed by our
                     excursion. The horses at <placeName>St. Helena</placeName>, are imported
                     chiefly from the <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, and a few are now
                     bred on the island; they are small, but travel well in this hilly country.</p>

                  <p n="964">
                     <date>[Thursday 18.]</date>The next day after breakfast, the governor invited
                     to his country-house a numerous company, consisting of the captains and
                     passengers in our ship, and the Dutton. We rode up the same hill which I had
                     ascended in the first ramble, and at the distance of about three miles from the
                     town, arrived at the place appointed. We were elegantly entertained at a small
                     house, agreeably situated in the midst of a very spacious garden, where we saw
                     several plants of <placeName>Europe</placeName>, <placeName>Africa</placeName>,
                     and <placeName>America</placeName>, and particularly a profusion of roses and
                     lilies, interspersed with myrtle and laurel. Several walks of peach-trees were
                     loaded with fruit, which had a peculiar rich flavour different from that of our
                     peaches; but all other European fruit-trees throve indifferently, and if I was
                     rightly informed, never bear any fruit. Vines have likewise been planted
                     several times, but have not succeeded, on account of the climate; and cabbages
                     and other greens, which thrive extremely well, are devoured by caterpillars. We
                     walked on all the neighbouring hills, and saw some small spots which had been
                     sowed with barley; but this, and all other kinds of corn, are generally
                     destroyed by the rats, which are immensely numerous on the island. The ground
                     is therefore laid out in pastures, of which the vivid verdure, in a tropical
                     climate, was really surprising. We were told that the whole island can support
                     3000 head of cattle, but that there were only 2600 upon it at that time. From
                     the number of fields which we saw unoccupied, we judged that a much greater
                     number might find sufficient food; but we were assured that the grass does not
                     grow up again during winter, and that a certain number of fields must be
                     reserved for that season. The beef is juicy, delicious, and very fat, and the
                     constant consumption of it prevents the cattle growing old on the island. The
                     common furze or gorse (<hi rend="italics">ulex europœus</hi>) which our
                     farmers take great pains to eradicate, has been planted here, and now over-runs
                     all the pastures. The inhabitants have found means to draw advantage from a
                     shrub, which has universally been esteemed useless and pernicious. The aspect
                     of the country was not always so delightful as it is at present; the ground was
                     parched by the intense heat, and all kinds of herbage and grass were shrivelled
                     up. The introduction of furze bushes, which throve as it were in despite of the
                     sun, preserved a degree of moisture in the ground; under their shade the grass
                     began to grow, and gradually covered the whole country with a rich and
                     beautiful sod. At present the furze is no longer wanted, and the people
                     assiduously root it out, and make use of it for fuel, which is indeed very
                     scarce upon the island, though I never saw a more œconomical use made of it
                     than there, and at the Cape. It is really surprising to see a variety of dishes
                     dressed, especially at the last mentioned settlement, with no greater fire than
                     an English cook would make under a small tea-kettle.</p>

                  <p n="965">In our return we saw several coveys of partridges, which are of the
                     small red-legged sort, common on the coast of <placeName>Africa</placeName>. We
                     likewise saw several beautiful ring-pheasants, which have been introduced into
                     the island by the governor, together with guinea-hens and rabbits. There is at
                     present a penalty of five pounds for killing a pheasant, by which means they
                     multiply so fast, that the restriction will soon be needless. Several other
                     useful importations might still be made, which would contribute to the greater
                     oppulence of the people. Snail-trefoil and clover might be sowed, which would
                     doubtless give more substantial food for the cattle than grass alone; and the
                     cultivation of pulse, such as carvanses and Chinese beans (<hi rend="italics">dolichos sinensis</hi> &amp; <hi rend="italics">phaseolus mungo</hi>),
                     of which sago is made in the province of <placeName>Georgia</placeName>, in
                        <placeName>North America<ref target="#edn303">
                           <note xml:id="edn303" anchored="true"> This is equal in goodness to the
                              real sago, which is the pith of a fern in the eastern islands of
                                 <placeName>India</placeName>. The North American sort is now well
                              known in <placeName>England</placeName>, by the name of
                                 <persName>Bowen's</persName> sago-powder, and the royal navy is
                              supplied with it. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>, cannot be too frequently recommended. A little perseverance, and
                     a few trials, would easily succeed in destroying the rats and caterpillars,
                     which now devour many useful plants; and these appear to be the principal
                     obstacles to agriculture on the island. Asses ought to be carried thither from
                        <placeName>Senegal</placeName>; where, as <persName>M. Adanson</persName>
                     says, they have an excellent breed of them. The removal of all kinds of goods
                     would be infinitely facilitated by this importation; and there are several
                     spots of ground, where cattle cannot feed, that would be extremely suitable to
                     animals which are so indifferent in regard to food.</p>

                  <p n="966">We passed the next day at <persName>Mr. Mason's</persName>
                     country-house, at the distance of four or five miles from the town. We made a
                     circuit, in order to go up a high mountain adjacent to <placeName>Diana's
                        Peak</placeName>, where we collected some curious plants, though the weather
                     was very rainy. Having seen on this excursion a small kind of blue dove, which
                     is said to have been originally found in the country, as well as the red-legged
                     partridge; and likewise some rice-birds, commonly called paddies (<hi rend="italics">loxia oryzivora</hi>), which have been introduced from the
                        <placeName>East Indies</placeName>; we passed a small farm, about a quarter
                     of a mile from the road, where two Bramins resided, who were accused of having
                     opposed the Company's interest in <placeName>India</placeName>. Whether the
                     crime was real or imaginary, remains undetermined; but I could not avoid taking
                     notice of the different manner in which the Dutch and English treat their
                     captives. The king of <placeName>Madurè</placeName> is locked in a dungeon on
                        <placeName>Robben Island</placeName>, whereas these Bramins are suffered to
                     be at large, and have a house and gardens, with all kinds of provisions,
                     besides several slaves to wait upon them.</p>

                  <p n="967">In the evening we returned to town, where <persName>Mr.
                        Graham</persName> gave a ball to the inhabitants. On entering the room, I
                     was very agreeably surprised with the great beauty and elegance displayed in a
                     numerous circle of ladies; I thought myself suddenly transported to the most
                     brilliant capital of <placeName>Europe</placeName>: their features were
                     regular, their forms graceful, and their complexion perfectly fair. To these
                     charms we may add an easy deportment, a genteel education, a pleasing flow of
                     spirits, and acuteness of understanding, which gave constant life to their
                     conversation, and totally banished all formal constraint. The same company
                     graced another ball the next night, which was given by <persName>Mr.
                        Laurel</persName>; and, notwithstanding the short interval which was left
                     for repose, we had the same reason as before to admire their vivacity and
                     activity. The number of ladies was so great, that some of them were at a loss
                     for partners, notwithstanding the presence of many persons from on board the
                     two ships in the harbour. On this occasion we were told, that the number of
                     female children born in this island evidently exceeds that of males, in the
                     same manner as it remarkably does at the <placeName>Cape of Good
                        Hope</placeName>. It would be an important circumstance to ascertain,
                     whether this is always the case in warm countries, especially as philosophers
                     could not fail to draw many inferences from thence relative to the domestic
                     life of different nations. These proportions are not yet well ascertained, even
                     in some parts of Europe; and where they are determined with some precision,
                     they offer several curious facts. In <placeName>England</placeName> and
                        <placeName>France</placeName> the number of male children exceeds that of
                     females; but in <placeName>Sweden</placeName> it is the reverse. The number of
                     inhabitants on <persName>St. Helena</persName> does not exceed two thousand
                     persons, including near five hundred soldiers, and six hundred slaves. The
                     greatest extent of their island is nearly eight miles, and the circuit about
                     twenty. By the arrival of the <placeName>India</placeName> ships, which they
                     supply with refreshments, they are in return provided with all sorts of
                     manufactures and other necessaries; and the Company annually orders one or two
                     of their ships to touch there in their way to <placeName>India</placeName>, in
                     order to send them a sufficient quantity of European goods and provisions,
                     which they stand in need of. Many of their slaves are employed in catching
                     fish, which are very plentiful; and by the help of these, together with their
                     cattle, poultry, roots, and salt provisions, they subsist throughout the year.
                     Their life seems to pass along very happily; free from the multitude of cares
                     which distresses their countrymen in <placeName>England</placeName>, and
                     blessed with quiet and content.</p>

                  <p n="968">The same company which had passed the evening at the ball appeared at
                     church <date>[Sunday 21.]</date>the next morning. The <persName>Rev. Mr.
                        Carr</persName>, a young clergyman of great merit, and of very liberal
                     sentiments, pronounced a sensible discourse, well suited to his audience, and
                     convinced us that he has all the qualities of an excellent spiritual pastor.
                     After the sermon we dined with the governor; and taking leave of all our
                     friends, whose amiable character had endeared them to us in so short a time as
                     that of our stay, returned on board, <persName>captain Cook's</persName>
                     departure being honoured once more by a salute from the castle. Towards night
                     we got under way, in company with the Dutton Indiaman, and proceeded to the
                     northward. The Company had sent an order to <placeName>St. Helena</placeName> a
                     few months before our arrival, importing that none of their ships should touch
                     at the <placeName>Isle of Ascension</placeName>, which they formerly used to
                     frequent for the sake of taking some turtles. <persName>Captain
                     Cook</persName>, however, being desirous of visiting this island, parted
                     company with the Dutton on the 24th in the evening, after we had all dined on
                     board that ship, and experienced many civilities from captain Rice and all his
                     passengers. We came in sight of the land early on the 28th in the morning, and
                     having run all day towards it, came to an anchor in <placeName>Cross
                        Bay</placeName> about <time>five o'clock in the evening</time>
                     <date>[Sunday 28.]</date>.9 This island was first discovered in 1501, by
                        <persName>Joao da Nova Galego</persName>, a Portuguese navigator, who named
                     it <placeName>Ilha de Nossa Senhora de Conceiçao</placeName>. The same admiral,
                     on his return to <placeName>Portugal</placeName> in 1502, discovered the
                        <placeName>Island of St. Helena</placeName>, which obtained that name from
                     the day of the discovery<ref target="#edn304">
                        <note xml:id="edn304" anchored="true"> These particulars are mentioned in a
                           Portuguese MS. obligingly communicated to me by <persName>George
                              Perry</persName>, Esq. lately returned from India, and intitled, <hi rend="italics">Conquista da India per huas e outras Armas, rea</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">e#</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">s e Evangelicas</hi>; the author of which appears
                           to have been a Jesuit. </note>
                     </ref>. <placeName>Ascension</placeName> was seen a second time by
                        <persName>Alfonso d'Albuquerque</persName> on his voyage to
                        <placeName>India</placeName> in 1503, and then received the name it now
                     bears; but was already at that time in the same desolate condition as at
                        present<ref target="#edn305">
                        <note xml:id="edn305" anchored="true"> See the Voyage of <persName>Giovanni
                              da Empoli</persName> on board of one of Albuquerque's ships; Ramusio
                              <hi rend="italics">Raccolta di</hi>
                           <hi rend="italics">Viaggi</hi>, vol. I. p. 145, edition of 1563.
                        </note>
                     </ref>. We sent several parties on shore, who passed the night on the watch for
                     turtles, which came to lay their eggs on the sandy shores. The dreariness of
                     this island surpassed all the horrors of <placeName>Easter Island</placeName>
                     and <placeName>Tierra del Fuego</placeName>, even without the assistance of
                     snow. It was a ruinous heap of rocks, many of which, as far as we could discern
                     from the ship, seemed to be totally changed by the fire of a volcano. Nearly in
                     the centre of the island rises a broad white mountain of great height, on which
                     we discerned some verdure by the help of our glasses, from whence it has
                     obtained the name of <placeName>Green Mountain</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="969">
                     <date>[Monday 29.]</date>We landed early in the morning among some rocks, the
                     surf being always immensely high on the great beach; which consists of minute
                     shell-sand, chiefly of a snowy white, very deep, dry, and intolerable to the
                     eyes, when the sun shines. We ascended among heaps of black cavernous stone,
                     which perfectly resembles the most common lavas of
                        <placeName>Vesuvius</placeName> and <placeName>Iceland</placeName>, and of
                     which the broken pieces looked as if they had been accumulated by art. The lava
                     currents cooling very suddenly, may easily be imagined to produce such an
                     effect. Having ascended about twelve or fifteen yards perpendicular, we found
                     ourselves on a great level plain, of six or eight miles in circuit, in the
                     different corners of which, we observed a large hill of an exact conical shape,
                     and of a reddish colour, standing perfectly insulated. Part of the plain
                     between these conic hills, was covered with great numbers of smaller hillocks,
                     consisting of the same wild and ragged lava, as that near the sea, and ringing
                     like glass when two pieces are knocked together. The ground between the heaps
                     of lava, was covered with a black earth on which we walked very firmly; but
                     where these heaps did not appear, the whole was a red earth, which was so
                     loose, and in such dry minute particles, that the wind raised clouds of dust
                     upon it. The conic hills consisted of a very different sort of lava, which was
                     red, soft, and crumbling into earth. One of these hills stands directly in
                     front of the bay, and has a wooden cross on its summit, from whence the bay is
                     said to take its name. Its sides are very steep, but a path near three quarters
                     of a mile long, winds round it to the summit. After examining this remarkable
                     country a little longer, we concluded with a great degree of probability on our
                     side, that the plain on which we stood, was once the crater or seat of a
                     volcano, by the accumulation of whose cinders and pumice-stones, the conic
                     hills had been gradually formed; that the currents of lava which we now saw
                     divided into many heaps, had perhaps been gradually buried in fresh cinders and
                     ashes, and the waters coming down from the interior mountain in the rainy
                     season, had smoothened every thing in their way, and filled up by degrees the
                     cavity of the crater. The rocky black lava was the residence of numberless men
                     of war birds and boobies, which sat on their eggs, and suffered us to come
                     close to them. The men of war birds in general, have a prodigious pendulous
                     skin, of a bright red, which they can distend to the size of a man's hand, and
                     which resembles the pelican's pouch, being perhaps intended for the same
                     purpose by nature. On all this rocky ground, we did not meet with more than ten
                     shrivelled plants, which were only of two sorts; one a species of spurge, the
                     other a bind-weed (<hi rend="italics">euphorbia origanoides</hi>, &amp;
                        <hi rend="italics">convolvulus pes caprœ</hi>). We returned on board at
                     noon, where we saw only six turtles which had been caught over night, their
                     laying season being almost at an end. The officer who had been sent to the
                     eastward, found the wreck of a ship there, which appeared to have been partly
                     consumed by fire, and was probably run on shore by the people, in order to save
                     their lives. The distressful situation to which such a set of men must have
                     been reduced, in this barren island, before a ship could take them up, drew an
                     expression of pity even from the sailors. But their misfortune was now become
                     our advantage; for our provision of fuel being very low, <persName>captain
                        Cook</persName> sent his boats to take in a sufficient quantity of the
                     timbers of this wreck.</p>

                  <p n="970">About eight in the evening, it being then quite dark, a small vessel
                     came into the bay, and anchored directly within us. <persName>Captain
                        Cook</persName> having hailed her repeatedly, received in answer, that she
                     was the Lucretia, a <placeName>New York</placeName> sloop, which had been at
                        <placeName>Sierra Leon</placeName>, and was now come to catch turtles, in
                     order to sell them at the windward islands of the <placeName>West
                        Indies</placeName>. A lieutenant was sent on board, who learnt from the
                     master, that he had taken our ship to be a French Indiaman, and was very
                     desirous of trading with English India-ships, in which he was disappointed by
                     the Company's regulations. He dined with our officers the next day, but on the
                     31st at day-break, left the island. <date>[Tuesday 30.]</date>On the 30th in
                     the morning, we landed a second time, and crossing the plain, arrived at a
                     prodigious lava current, intersected by many channels, from six to eight yards
                     deep, which bore strong marks of being worn by vast torrents of water; but were
                     at present perfectly dry, the sun being in the northern hemisphere. In these
                     gullies we found a small quantity of soil, consisting of a black volcanic
                     earth, mixed with some whitish particles gritty to the touch. Here we saw some
                     small bunches of purslane, and a species of grass (<hi rend="italics">panicum
                        sanguineum</hi>) which found sufficient nutriment in the dry soil. Having
                     at last with great fatigue, climbed over this extensive and tremendous current
                     of lava, which was much more solid than the heaps nearer to the sea, we came to
                     the foot of the green mountain, which even from the ship's place in the bay, we
                     had plainly distinguished to be of a different nature from all the rest of the
                     country. Those parts of the lava which surrounded it, were covered with a
                     prodigious quantity of purslane, and a kind of new fern (<hi rend="italics">lonchitis adscensionis</hi>) where several flocks of wild goats were
                     feeding. The great mountain is divided in its extremities, by various clefts
                     into several bodies, but in the centre they all run together, and form one
                     broad mass of great height. The whole appears to consist of a gritty
                     tophaceous10 lime-stone, which has never been attacked by the volcano, but
                     probably existed prior to its eruption; its sides are covered with a kind of
                     grass, peculiar to the island, which <persName>Linnӕus</persName> has named
                        <hi rend="italics">aristida ascensionis</hi>. We likewise observed
                     several flocks of goats feeding on it; but they were all excessively shy, and
                     ran with surprising velocity along tremendous precipices, where it was
                     impossible to follow them. The master of the <placeName>New York</placeName>
                     sloop acquainted us, that there is a spring of water on one part of this
                     mountain, which falls down a great precipice, and is afterwards absorbed in the
                     sand. I am almost persuaded that with a little trouble,
                        <placeName>Ascension</placeName> might shortly be made fit for the residence
                     of men. The introduction of furze (<hi rend="italics">ulex europœus</hi>),
                     and of a few other plants which thrive best in a parched soil, and are not
                     likely to be attacked by rats or goats, would soon have the same effect as at
                        <placeName>St. Helena</placeName>. The moisture attracted from the
                     atmosphere by the high mountains in the centre of the island, would then no
                     longer be evaporated by the violent action of the sun, but collect into
                     rivulets, and gradually supply the whole island. A sod of grasses would every
                     where cover the surface of the ground, and annually encrease the stratum of
                     mould, till it could be planted with more useful vegetables.</p>

                  <p n="971">We returned gradually to <placeName>Cross Bay</placeName>, in the heat
                     of noon, over the plain, having a space of more than five miles to traverse,
                     where the sun burnt, and blistered our faces and necks, and heated the soil to
                     such a degree, that our feet were likewise extremely sore. About <time>three
                        o'clock</time> we arrived at the water's-side, and after bathing in a small
                     cove among a few rocks, we made the signal for a boat, and were taken on board.
                        <date>[Wednesd. 31.]</date>The next forenoon we made another small
                     excursion, in company with <persName>captain Cook</persName>, towards the
                        <placeName>Green Mountain</placeName>, but we were all of us so much
                     fatigued that we could not reach it. We made no new observations in the course
                     of this day, the nature of the island being dreary beyond description, in its
                     outskirts. In the afternoon we hoisted in all our boats, and set sail, having
                     taken twenty-four turtles, weighing from three to four hundred pounds each.
                     They lasted us three weeks, one and sometimes two being killed every day, and
                     the ship's company receiving as much as they could eat of this wholesome and
                     palatable food.</p>

                  <p n="972"> ;</p>

               </div>
               <div n="8" type="chapter">
                  <head>
                     CHAP. VIII.<lb/>
                     Run from <placeName>Ascension</placeName>, past the <placeName>Island of
                           Fernando da Noronha</placeName>, to the
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>.--Stay at
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName>.--Return to <placeName>England</placeName>.<lb/>
                  </head>

                  <p n="973">
                     <date>[1775. June.][Friday 9.]</date>AFTER leaving
                        <placeName>Ascension</placeName> we made a good deal of westing, insomuch
                     that we came in sight of the <placeName>Island of Fernando da
                        Noronha</placeName>, near the coast of <placeName>Brasil</placeName>, on the
                     9th of June, about <time>one o'clock in the afternoon</time>. The longitude of
                     this island being hitherto unsettled, <persName>captain Cook</persName> only
                     ran in sight of it, in order to determine its true situation. <persName>Americo
                        Vespucci</persName>, whose name has since been given to the continent, of
                     which he was one of the first discoverers, fell in with this island in his
                     fourth voyage, so early as the year 1502<ref target="#edn306">
                        <note xml:id="edn306" anchored="true"> See <persName>Ramusio</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Raccolta di Viaggi</hi>, &amp;c. tom. I. p. 129.
                        </note>
                     </ref>; but in what manner it received its present name remains unknown. In
                     1733, the French India Company made a small settlement on it; but the
                     Portuguese laid claim to it, and took possession of it, in 1739<ref target="#edn307">
                        <note xml:id="edn307" anchored="true">
                           <persName>Don Antonio Ulloa's</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics">Voyage to <placeName>South America</placeName>
                           </hi>, vol. II. may be consulted, where some account of the Portuguse
                           settlement is inserted. </note>
                     </ref>. According to the charts of the French, all the interior part of the
                     island consists of extensive plains, which are surrounded by several hills
                     along the sea-shores<ref target="#edn308">
                        <note xml:id="edn308" anchored="true"> A very fine plan of the island is
                           published in <persName>M. Buache's</persName> map, intitled, <hi rend="italics">Carte de la Partie de l'Ocean vers l'Equateur entre les
                              Cotes d'Afrique &amp; d'Amerique</hi>, 1737. This map was published
                           with a view to prove, that certain shoals (now well known not to exist)
                           caused the various currents observed in that part of the sea; and the
                           tribe of French philosophers have built many systems upon it, which are
                           consequently very ill <hi rend="italics">supported</hi>. </note>
                     </ref>. We approached it on the east side, and then hauled close round the
                        <placeName>Isle of Rats</placeName>, which lies off its N. E. point, and
                     looked into the <placeName>Bay of Remedios</placeName>, which is surrounded by
                     five forts, some on <persName>Fernando Noronha</persName> itself, and one on a
                     rock which lies off the N. E. end. The island appeared very well wooded in all
                     parts, and some of its mountains had much the appearance of being volcanic,
                     though they were covered with rich verdure, which did not shew the least marks
                     of cultivation. The five forts in sight hoisted their colours at once, and one
                     of them fired a gun. We likewise hoisted our colours, fired a gun to leeward,
                     and instantly putting about, stood away to the northward.</p>

                  <p n="974">
                     <date>[Sunday 11.]</date>On the 11th we crossed the line, after spending two
                     years and nine months to the south of it. The calms which are usual in its
                     neighbourhood did not retard our course, till we had gained near four degrees
                     of north latitude, and lasted from the 14th to the 18th, when the N. E.
                     tradewind set in, after we had amused ourselves with catching some sharks and a
                     porpesse, which the crew feasted upon. Of a very numerous collection of live
                     animals, which my father had collected at a great expence at the
                        <placeName>Cape of Good Hope</placeName>, nearly one half perished before we
                     reached these latitudes. Being desirous of preserving the rest, he was obliged
                     to put himself to another expence, in order to rescue them from the malice of
                     the sailors, who had slily and enviously killed most of those which he had lost
                     before.</p>

                  <p n="975">
                     <date>[Friday 30.]</date>The trade-wind carried us out of the torrid zone in
                     twelve days, and lasted us five days more; the sun, which commonly regulates
                     the extent of this wind, being in the northern signs. <date>[1775.
                        July.][Tuesday 4.]</date>On the 4th of July we met with squalls and calms
                     alternately; and the next day had a dead calm, which lasted undisturbed during
                     two days, and was intermixed with light airs for the two following days. The
                     latitudes where these calms chiefly reign, are named the horse-latitudes by
                     mariners, who frequently cross the ocean from <placeName>Europe</placeName> to
                        <placeName>America</placeName>, because they are fatal to horses and other
                     cattle, which are transported to the last mentioned continent; instances
                     frequently happening, when the calms have lasted a whole month without being
                     interrupted, except by light airs of a few hours duration.</p>

                  <p n="976">Having obtained a fair wind on the 9th, we directed our course towards
                     the <placeName>Açores</placeName>, commonly called the <placeName>Western
                        Islands</placeName> in English charts; and on the 13th, at four in the
                     afternoon, saw the <placeName>Island of Fayal</placeName>.1 <date>[Friday
                        14.]</date>Early the next morning we stood in for the land, and gradually
                     came in sight of the lofty <placeName>Island of Pico</placeName>, of which the
                     skirts appeared to be covered with verdure and habitations. Towards seven we
                     drew near the road or bay on the <placeName>Island of Fayal</placeName>, where
                     ships commonly anchor. The Portuguese master of the port came off to us in a
                     small boat, in order to point out a secure place of anchorage, where three
                     vessels were already moored. He acquainted us in French, that one of these, a
                     snow under Portuguese colours, had lately arrived from
                        <placeName>Para</placeName> in the <placeName>Brasils</placeName>, having,
                     through the ignorance of her conductor, missed the <placeName>Cape Verd
                        Islands</placeName>, to which she was bound. Another small vessel, which did
                     not shew any colours, was a North-American sloop. The third was the
                     Pourvoyeuse, a French frigate, whose captain, <persName>M.
                     d'Estelle</persName>, with great politeness sent a lieutenant on board, to
                     offer his services to <persName>captain Cook</persName>. After coming to an
                     anchor, an officer was sent on shore to the commandant of the fort, in order to
                     make the usual enquiry with regard to the salute; but after being detained
                     several hours, he was told that the fort always returned two guns less than it
                     received, for which reason we did not think proper to pay the compliment. The
                     American sloop set sail in the afternoon, being greatly apprehensive of some
                     mischance from us, though we were inclined to be at peace with all the
                     world.</p>

                  <p n="977">The appearance of the town, from the sea side, made nearly the same
                     impression on us, as that of <placeName>Funchal</placeName> in
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName>. It lies along the shore of the bay, and
                     rises in the form of an amphitheatre upon the hill, with an easy slope. Its
                     churches, monasteries, forts, and flat-roofed houses, which are for the
                     greatest part white, produce a very pleasing effect. The hills beyond the town
                     are some of the richest that nature and industry ever adorned. They were at
                     this time loaded with ripe corn-fields, interspersed with gardens, groves, and
                     various buildings, which bore evident marks of a great population, and raised
                     every idea of plenty. There are two forts which command the bay, one at each
                     extremity of the town, but the southernmost is the most considerable.</p>

                  <p n="978">Immediately after dinner <persName>captain Cook</persName>, accompanied
                     by my father and myself, went on shore at the foot of the southern fort. We
                     were no sooner landed than we plainly discovered from what motives the
                     Portuguese had refused to return an equal salute. The cannon rested on rotten
                     carriages, which it was not prudent to expose to the shock of a discharge; and
                     the greater part of them were placed on a rampart, which was infinitely too
                     narrow to be fit for use. Besides this, we were afterwards informed, that the
                     expence of powder, upon such occasions, was deemed superfluous by the present
                     oeconomical ministry in <placeName>Portugal</placeName>. We walked through
                     great part of the town, which is named <placeName>Villa da Horta</placeName>,
                     and extends a mile and a quarter in length, consisting chiefly of one irregular
                     street, intersected by a few small lanes. The pavement is made of large stones,
                     and tolerably clean, being little frequented. The houses are contrived exactly
                     in the same manner as those of <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, with projecting
                     balconies which are roofed at the top, and have lattices that may be lifted up
                     occasionally, supplying the place of windows. After we had visited the
                     churches, of which there are three, dark and Gothic like those of
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName>, we were conducted to <persName>Mr.
                        Dent</persName>, the English deputy-consul, who received us very kindly, and
                     offered <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, my father, <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName>, and myself a lodging in his house during our stay. He
                     accompanied us next to the different convents within the town. One of these
                     belongs to the Franciscan Cordeliers, who are twenty in number, besides several
                     lay-brothers; and, according to their own account, teach rhetoric, philosophy,
                     and divinity to the children of the inhabitants. Another, situated on an
                     eminence, contains twelve Carmelites, with their lay-brothers. The third lies
                     on a hill above the town, and belongs to twelve Capuchins, with some
                     lay-brothers. The fourth is placed in the best and most conspicuous part of the
                     town, and was formerly the college of the Jesuits, but is now converted into a
                     court of justice, a part of it being reserved for a public school. It cannot be
                     expected that learning should flourish in all these dreary cells. The monks
                     being here entirely cut off from the means of acquiring knowledge, are content
                     to live comfortably and agreeably, without undergoing the fatigues of study.
                     The two nunneries next attracted our attention; the one is dedicated to
                        <persName>St. John</persName>, and contains one hundred and fifty nuns of
                     the order of <persName>St. Clara</persName>, with as many servants. They wear a
                     long cloak, of dark brown serge, over another of white callicoe. Eighty or
                     ninety nuns, of the order of Nossa Senhora de Conceiçao, occupy another
                     convent, with an equal number of servants. They wear white dresses, and have a
                     piece of blue silk fixed on the breast, together with an image of the Virgin on
                     a silver plate. The reception which we met with at their grates was very
                     polite; but we could not converse with them for want of knowing their language.
                     Their pronunciation was very soft, and in a singing tone, which we should have
                     taken to be affected, if we had not afterwards found it general among all ranks
                     of people. The features of some were very agreeable, and their complexions
                     fairer than we expected, though in general rather languid. Religion had not yet
                     so entirely occupied their breast, as to extinguish every spark of corporeal
                     fire; their eyes, which were indeed their finest features, still betrayed an
                     attachment to nature; and if there is truth in the hundredth part of the
                     accounts which we heard at Fayal, love reigns with absolute sway in the midst
                     of their cloisters.</p>

                  <p n="979">After walking about till sunset, we returned to <persName>Mr.
                        Dent's</persName> house, and were introduced to a Portuguese priest, who
                     spoke Latin better than all the friars in the different convents, and appeared
                     to be a very intelligent man, whose inquisitive turn of mind had got the better
                     of many prejudices which were common among his countrymen. He communicated to
                     us a Spanish literary and political journal, which is read at present
                     throughout the Portuguese dominions; the prime minister having prohibited the
                     printing of any kind of gazette or news-paper in
                        <placeName>Portugal</placeName>. This regulation greatly contributes to keep
                     that kingdom in profound ignorance, which is the only security of an oppressive
                     government.</p>

                  <p n="980">The next morning we paid a visit to the officers of the French frigate,
                     who lodged at the house of <persName>Mrs. Milton</persName>, an English woman,
                     and a widow. This good lady, hearing we had been round the world, shed a flood
                     of tears, and told us that our arrival put her in mind of the cruel death of
                     one of her sons, who had embarked in <persName>captain Furneaux's</persName>
                     ship, and was one of those unfortunate men that were killed and devoured in
                        <placeName>New Zeeland</placeName>. The circumstances with which his
                     untimely fate was attended, are much more horrible, according to the ideas we
                     imbibe by education, than those of any other manner of death, and could not
                     fail of making a deeper impression on the unhappy parent. Her grief was
                     likewise of that genuine kind, to which no feeling heart can refuse a
                     sympathetic tribute; and it taught us to reflect, how many mothers in
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName>, and in the <placeName>South Seas</placeName>,
                     have had reason to wail the loss of their sons, and to execrate the
                     enterprizing spirit of mankind. <persName>Mrs. Milton</persName>, reflecting on
                     the many calamities which had embittered her life, was resolved to secure
                     repose and happiness for her daughter, by placing her in one of the nunneries
                     of <placeName>Fayal</placeName>; without considering at the same time, that the
                     world has charms at the age of fourteen, which lose their attractive power at
                     fifty. Her daughter was handsome enough to dispute the palm of beauty with all
                     the Portuguese ladies at <placeName>Fayal</placeName>. One of our officers,
                     therefore, undertook to dissuade <persName>Mrs. Milton</persName> from her
                     project, and assured her, in very blunt terms indeed, that so far from doing a
                     meritorious action, she would incur the eternal displeasure of heaven. Whether
                     a seaman's admonition could have much effect I leave the reader to determine;
                        <persName>Mrs. Milton</persName>, however, received it with good humour; and
                     the conversation which followed, gave a convincing proof, that religious
                     motives were not so urgent, in behalf of her daughter's confinement, as those
                     of private interest.</p>

                  <p n="981">From hence we took a walk upon the hills beyond the town, and found the
                     ground extremely well cultivated, all the field being enclosed by walls of
                     stone, in some places cemented together, in others only wrapped in moss. The
                     people chiefly sow wheat of the bearded sort, of which the ears were very
                     large, and the straw of no great length. Besides this, they have likewise
                     barley, which was already housed; and maize, or Indian corn, which grows in
                     some places under fine groves of chestnut-trees, that greatly adorn the
                     country; but where it stands in open fields, they mix it with French beans.
                     Near the cottages we found some fields of cucumbers, gourds, melons, and
                     water-melons, together with safflor, which the Portuguese employ to colour
                     their eatables yellow. Their orchards supply them with lemons, oranges, plums,
                     apricots, figs, pears, and apples. They have few cabbages, and their carrots
                     degenerate, and turn white, which obliges them to send for fresh seeds to
                        <placeName>Europe</placeName> every year. They plant abundance of potatoes
                     by the express command of the government, and sell them very cheap, because
                     they do not like to eat them. Large sweet onions, and garlick, the favourite
                     greens of the Portuguese, are plentiful on the island; together with the <hi rend="italics">solanum lycopersicon</hi>, the fruit of which they call
                     tomatos, and likewise abundance of strawberries. There are a few vine-yards on
                     the island; but the quantity of wine which is made is inconsiderable, and its
                     quality very indifferent. Their oxen are small, but the meat very good, though
                     they are employed to draw the plough and the cart. Their sheep are likewise of
                     a very small breed, but the mutton well tasted. Their goats and hogs are
                     long-legged; and besides these, they keep abundance of poultry of all sorts.
                     Their horses are small and ill-looking; but asses and mules are more numerous,
                     and perhaps more serviceable in this hilly island. The roads are much better
                     than at <persName>Madeira</persName>, and every thing, upon the whole, bears
                     evident marks of greater industry. The deafening noise made by their carts is,
                     however, very disagreeable, and owing to their aukward construction. The wheels
                     are formed of three large clumsy pieces of wood, bound by iron, and fastened to
                     a strong axletree, which moves therefore together with the wheels, and turns in
                     a round hole made through a square piece of wood, which is transversely fixed
                     to the bottom of the cart. The cottages of the common people are built of clay,
                     and thatched with straw; and are small, but cleanly and cool. The inhabitants
                     were in general fairer than those of <persName>Madeira</persName>; their
                     features, though similar, were however somewhat softer; and their dress was in
                     general much more decent and comfortable, consisting of coarse linen shirts and
                     drawers, with blue or brown jackets, and boots on the legs. A short jacket and
                     petticoat is the dress of the women, whose hair is tied in a bunch behind, and
                     whose features are not always disagreeable. When they go to town, they put on a
                     cloak which covers their heads, leaving only a small opening for the eyes, and
                     is tied round the waist. The men likewise add a broad-brimmed hat and a cloak
                     upon these occasions. Wherever we came we found them employed; in the fields
                     reaping their corn, or at home in various other branches of husbandry; and not
                     one idle beggar made his appearance, by which means the difference between this
                     island and <persName>Madeira</persName> became still more striking. We rambled
                     to some groves and wild shrubberies on the summits of the hills, where we found
                     abundance of myrtles growing wild among tall aspen-trees, and great quantities
                     of beeches, which being called faya (<hi rend="italics">fagus</hi>), in the
                     Portuguese language, have, it is said, given occasion to name the island
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName>. The prospect from these eminences was very
                     delightful, the town and road lying as it were under our feet, and the
                        <placeName>island of Pico</placeName> opposite, at the distance of two or
                     three leagues. A number of canary-birds, blackbirds, and other song-birds were
                     heard on all sides; and their harmony was the more enchanting, as it put us in
                     mind of those European scenes from which we had so long been absent. The whole
                     country was filled with a variety of birds, among which we particularly noticed
                     prodigious numbers of common quails, some American woodcocks, and a small
                     species of hawks, from whence this group of islands was named
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>, that being the Portuguese name of a hawk. The
                     prodigious heat of the day obliged us to return to the town about noon, and to
                     take shelter in the lofty cool rooms of the consul's house. I was however too
                     much pleased with the appearance of the country to pass the whole afternoon in
                     town, and therefore accompanied <persName>Mr. Wales</persName>, <persName>Mr.
                        Patton</persName>, <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName>, and <persName>Mr.
                        Gilbert</persName> on another excursion. We passed by the Capuchin monastery
                     of <persName>St. Antonio</persName>, which is situated on the hill; and being
                     particularly desirous of seeing a rivulet, which would naturally embellish the
                     landscape where it flowed, we engaged two lively boys to become our conductors.
                     We now crossed some romantic hills and groves, where <persName>Mr.
                        Hodges</persName> took several sketches, and soon opened a fine rich plain,
                     laid out in corn-fields and pastures, in the midst of which lay the village of
                        <placeName>Nossa Senhora de la Luz</placeName>, surrounded by groves of
                     aspen and beech. When we had reached this place we separated, and <persName>Mr.
                        Patton</persName> and <persName>Mr. Hodges</persName> only continued to walk
                     to the rivulet with me. We were somewhat disappointed, when we saw a very deep
                     and broad bed of a torrent almost entirely dry, except in one part, where an
                     inconsiderable brook appeared to wind its way among the rocks and stones.
                     However, we were prevailed upon by our conductors to go down into this hollow,
                     where we soon found a great number of young girls assembled about the head of
                     the spring, employed in drawing water. Among them was one who, by her fair
                     complexion and dress, appeared to be of higher rank than the rest;
                     notwithstanding this, she had no manner of advantage over her companions, but
                     like them filled her pails with water from the fountain. We could not help
                     being pleased to find the remains of patriarchal simplicity among a civilized
                     people, where the superiority of rank is commonly marked by pride and
                     indolence. From hence we walked along the bed of the river, which we were told
                     is filled to the top in winter, when heavy rains usually happen in this island.
                     The people told us they expected a shower, and had, for that reason, laid great
                     quantities of flax in bundles into the dry bed of the torrent, in order to be
                     soaked. This flax appeared to be long, and of a good quality, and is
                     manufactured into coarse linens on the island. We came back to town much
                     fatigued, when it began to grow dark, after having called at a peasant's house
                     on the road, where we drank some of the common wine of the country, which has a
                     bitter taste, but seems to be very wholesome. The rain, which the people
                     expected, really set in as soon as we were returned; and I was told it would be
                     of infinite value to the islands at this season, by swelling the grapes with
                     juice, which otherwise remain no bigger than currants. During my absence, my
                     father had conversed with several Portuguese, especially with the clergyman I
                     mentioned before, from whom he obtained some particulars relative to the
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>, which have enabled me to give the following
                     account of them.</p>

                  <p n="982">The <placeName>Açores</placeName> were first discovered by some Flemish
                     ships, in 1439, when several families of that nation settled at
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName>, where one of the parishes still bears the name
                     of Flamingos. For this reason some of the old geographers have called them the
                        <placeName>Flemish Islands</placeName>. In 1447, the Portuguese discovered
                     the island of <placeName>St. Maria</placeName>, which is the easternmost of
                     this group, then <placeName>St. Miguiel</placeName> (Michael) and next
                        <placeName>Terceira</placeName>. <persName>Don Gonzalo Velho
                        Cabral</persName>, commander of Almuros, settled on
                        <placeName>Terceira</placeName> in 1449, and founded the city of
                        <placeName>Angra</placeName>. The islands of <placeName>St.
                        George</placeName>, <placeName>Graciosa</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Pico</placeName>, and <placeName>Fayal</placeName>, were likewise
                     successively seen, and settled; and last of all, the two westernmost of the
                     group, were discovered, and named <placeName>Flores</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Corvo</placeName>, from the abundance of flowers on the one, and
                     of crows on the other. .</p>

                  <p n="983">These islands, which are all fertile, and at present inhabited by an
                     industrious race of people, are commanded by a governor-general, who resides at
                        <placeName>Angra</placeName> in <placeName>Terceira</placeName>. The present
                     governor was <persName>Don Anton da Almada</persName>, who is universally
                     esteemed on account of his good-nature, and abhorrence of all kinds of
                     extortion and oppression. Instead of accumulating a fortune in his post, he has
                     spent much more than his income, living in great splendor on purpose to benefit
                     the islands, for which reason he was continued six years in his government,
                     though it is customary to keep it only three years in the same hands. His
                     successor, <persName>Don Luis de Tal Pilatus</persName>, was however daily
                     expected from <placeName>Lisbon</placeName>, together with a new bishop of
                        <placeName>Angra</placeName>. The bishop's diocese extends over all the
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>, and he has twelve canons in his cathedral.
                     His income is paid in wheat, and consists of 300 <hi rend="italics">muys</hi>, or measures of twenty-four bushels. Each <hi rend="italics">muy</hi> at the lowest is worth, four pounds sterling, consequently he
                     has at least twelve hundred pounds sterling a year. Every island is commanded
                     by a <persName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Capitan M</hi>
                        <hi rend="italics">o#r</hi>
                     </persName>, who is a kind of deputy governor, or commandant, and directs the
                     police, militia, and revenue. A <hi rend="italics">Juiz</hi> or judge, is at
                     the head of the law department in every island, from whom they appeal to a
                     higher court at <placeName>Terceira</placeName>, and from thence to the supreme
                     court at <placeName>Lisbon</placeName>. The natives of these islands are said
                     to be very quarrelsome, and have law-suits constantly depending.</p>

                  <p n="984">The <placeName>isle of Corvo</placeName>, is the least of the
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>, and contains scarcely six hundred
                     inhabitants, who chiefly cultivate wheat, and feed hogs, exporting annually a
                     small quantity of bacon.</p>

                  <p n="985">The <placeName>isle of Flores</placeName> is something larger, more
                     fertile and more populous. Its exports amount to six hundred <hi rend="italics">muys</hi> of wheat, besides a quantity of bacon. But as no
                     wine is made in both these islands, the inhabitants are obliged to import a
                     quantity for their consumption from <placeName>Fayal</placeName>. A large
                     Spanish ship of war, richly laden, was lost upon the coast of
                        <placeName>Flores</placeName> many years ago; her crew and all her treasures
                     however were saved. These Spaniards introduced the venereal disease upon the
                     island, where it was never known before, and their riches being an irresistible
                     temptation with many women, every individual inhabitant was soon infected. To
                     expiate this crime in some measure, they have built a church at a great
                     expence, which is now reckoned the handsomest building in all the
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>. The evil has however maintained its ground,
                     and as in <placeName>Peru</placeName>, or in some parts of
                        <placeName>Siberia</placeName>, no inhabitant of
                        <placeName>Flores</placeName> is free from it.</p>

                  <p n="986">
                     <placeName>Fayal</placeName> is one of the larger islands in the group, being
                     nine leagues long from east to west, and about four leagues broad. Its present
                     commandant, or <placeName>
                        <hi rend="italics">Capitan M</hi>
                        <hi rend="italics">o#r</hi>
                     </placeName>, is called <persName>Senhor Thomas Francisco Brum de
                        Silveyra</persName>; he has the character of a greedy covetous man, and
                     always lives in the country, in order to avoid shewing civilities to strangers,
                     or keeping company with the inhabitants of the town. The judge of
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName> was then expected from
                        <placeName>Portugal</placeName>, with the new governor-general. The head of
                     the clergy on the island, is only styled <hi rend="italics">oviedor</hi> or
                     auditor, and was the vicar of the principal church in the town.</p>

                  <p n="987">Learning is much discountenanced at <placeName>Fayal</placeName>, as in
                     all the <placeName>Açores</placeName>, and in <placeName>Portugal</placeName>
                     itself. <persName>M. de Fleurieu with M. Pingrè;</persName>, the French
                     astronomer, who went out to try some time-keepers, were not permitted to land
                     their instruments at <placeName>Terceira</placeName>, it being apprehended that
                     they meant to do some mischief to the island<ref target="#edn309">
                        <note xml:id="edn309" anchored="true"> Our astronomer did not expose himself
                           to a refusal; but fixed the quadrant, and observed in the garden
                           adjoining to the consul's house, unknown to all the Portuguese.2 </note>
                     </ref>. Upwards of two years ago, an impost of two <hi rend="italics">reys</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn310">
                        <note xml:id="edn310" anchored="true"> A <hi rend="italics">rey</hi> is
                           about the twelfth part of a penny sterling, and a <hi rend="italics">canari</hi> is somewhat larger than a gallon. </note>
                     </ref> was laid on each <hi rend="italics">canari</hi> of wine, made in
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName> and <placeName>Pico</placeName>, which amounts
                     to something more than a shipping per pipe, and produces about one thousand
                     pounds a year. This revenue was to be raised under pretence of providing the
                     salary of three professors, to be established at <placeName>Fayal</placeName>,
                     after undergoing an examination at <placeName>Lisbon</placeName>. But
                     unfortunately for science, and for the inhabitants of the island, the money was
                     no sooner collected, than it was applied to a very different use, and now
                     serves to pay and support the garrison, which nominally consists of one
                     hundred, but in effect of only forty men, without either discipline or arms. In
                     consequence of this abuse, there are at present no public institutions for the
                     improvement of children, and those only who can afford to pay for instruction,
                     can give their children a lettered education. There is a professor appointed
                     indeed, who has passed the examination; but as he receives no salary, he poorly
                     earns his bread by teaching the rudiments of Latin. It must be confessed, that
                     the impost upon the wine, is not the only one which is misapplied in this
                     island. There is another much more considerable, of two per cent. laid on all
                     the exports, the produce of which is intended to maintain the fortifications in
                     good repair. However, it is at present thought fit to suffer the batteries to
                     decay, and to transmit the money to <placeName>Terceira</placeName>, where it
                     is not better employed. One tenth on all the productions of the
                        <placeName>Aèores</placeName> belong to the king, and the single article of
                     tobacco, which is monopolized by the crown, brings in a considerable sum. The
                     possession of these islands, small as they are, can therefore never be
                     indifferent to <placeName>Portugal</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="988"> Wheat and maize are the chief products of
                     <placeName>Fayal</placeName>; and of the former, it sends several ship loads to
                        <placeName>Lisbon</placeName> in plentiful years. Some flax is likewise
                     raised there; but the wine known by the name of <placeName>Fayal</placeName>
                     wine, is all raised on the <placeName>island of Pico</placeName>, which lies
                     directly opposite, and has no harbour. The number of inhabitants in
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName> is computed at 15000, distributed in twelve
                     parishes; and one third of the number live in the town, or <placeName>Villa da
                        Horta</placeName>, which contains three of the above parishes. Its road or
                     bay is reckoned tolerably safe in summer, but in winter it is open to south and
                     south-east winds, which, I was told, blow hard at that season. However, as the
                     bottom is a good sand, the American vessels sometimes ride there in the worst
                     weather, by three or four anchors. The wine of <placeName>Pico</placeName> is
                     chiefly carried from <placeName>Fayal</placeName> to <placeName>North
                        America</placeName>, and to <placeName>Brasil</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="989">The <placeName>isle of Pico</placeName> has its name from the peak or
                     high mountain upon it, which is frequently capt with clouds, and serves the
                     inhabitants of <placeName>Fayal</placeName> nearly the same purpose as a
                     barometer. The island is not only the greatest, but also the most populous of
                     the <placeName>Aèores</placeName>, containing 30000 inhabitants. It has no
                     corn-fields, being every where covered with vineyards, which have a most
                     enchanting appearance on the easy slope at the foot of the mountain. The corn,
                     and other necessaries for the consumption of the natives, are therefore
                     supplied from <placeName>Fayal</placeName>, most of the principal families of
                     that island having large possessions on the opposite, or western part of
                        <placeName>Pico</placeName>. The season of vintage, is the season of mirth
                     and festivity, when a fourth, or even a third part of the inhabitants of
                        <placeName>Fayal</placeName>, remove to <placeName>Pico</placeName> with
                     their families, down to the smallest domestic animals. It is affirmed that a
                     quantity of grapes, which would yield three thousand pipes of wine, are eaten
                     at that time, every person indulging his taste with this delicious fruit,
                     though no people are more sober and frugal at their meals than the Portuguese.
                     Formerly the vintage produced annually 30000, and sometimes in fortunate years
                     37000 pipes of wine; but a kind of disease attacked the vines some years ago,
                     which causes the leaves to drop off, at the time when the grapes require to be
                     sheltered from the sun<ref target="#edn311">
                        <note xml:id="edn311" anchored="true"> I suspect this to be caused by some
                           species of insects. </note>
                     </ref>. Of late however they have recovered, and at present yield from 18000 to
                     20000 pipes a year. The best wine is made on the west side of the island, in
                     the vineyards which belong to the natives of <placeName>Fayal</placeName>. That
                     which is raised on the opposite side, is converted into brandy, of which one
                     pipe is made from three or four pipes of wine. The best sort of wine is tart,
                     but pleasant, and has a good body, which improves greatly by being kept; a pipe
                     of it is sold on the spot for between four and five pounds sterling. A small
                     quantity of sweet wine is likewise made, which they call <hi rend="italics">passada</hi>, and of which the pipe is sold at the rate of seven or eight
                     pounds sterling.</p>

                  <p n="990">
                     <placeName>St. George</placeName> is a small narrow island, very steep, and of
                     considerable height. It is inhabited by 5000 persons, who cultivate much wheat,
                     but scarcely any wine. </p>

                  <p n="991">
                     <placeName>Graciosa</placeName> has a more gentle slope than the former, but is
                     likewise very small, and chiefly produces wheat, having 3000 inhabitants. A
                     small quantity of indifferent wine is likewise made on it, which is converted
                     into brandy; from five to six pipes of wine being required to make one pipe of
                     brandy. <placeName>Graciosa</placeName> and <placeName>St. George</placeName>
                     likewise have some pastures, and export cheese and butter.</p>

                  <p n="992">
                     <placeName>Terceira</placeName> is the largest island, next to
                        <placeName>Pico</placeName>, of all the <placeName>Açores</placeName>. It is
                     highly cultivated with wheat, and likewise produced some bad wine. As it is the
                     residence of the governor-general, and of the superior court of justice, as
                     well as a bishop's see, it has some kind of importance above the rest. Its
                     inhabitants are computed at 20,000, and its exports consist in wheat, which is
                     sent to <placeName>Lisbon</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="993">
                     <placeName>St. Miguiel</placeName> is likewise of considerable extent, very
                     fertile and populous, containing about 25,000 inhabitants. They cultivate no
                     vines, but abundance of wheat and flax. Of the latter they manufacture such a
                     quantity of coarse linens, that three ship-loads of them are annually sent to
                        <placeName>Brasil</placeName>. The linen is about two feet wide, and the
                        <hi rend="italics">vara</hi>
                     <ref target="#edn312">
                        <note xml:id="edn312" anchored="true"> Portuguese yard. </note>
                     </ref> of the common sort is sold for about one shilling and six pence, which
                     is to all appearance a very high price. The principal place on this island is a
                     city named <placeName>Ponte de Gada</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="994">
                     <placeName>Santa Maria</placeName> is the south-eastermost of all the
                        <placeName>Açores</placeName>, and produces plenty of wheat. The inhabitants
                     amount to 5000, some of whom manufacture a kind of coarse earthen-ware, with
                     which they supply all the islands. They have likewise built two small ships
                     lately, of wood which grew in their own island.</p>

                  <p n="995">I flatter myself that the above particulars, though insufficient to
                     give a perfect idea of the <placeName>Açores</placeName>, will not be
                     unacceptable to my readers, especially as these islands, being seldom visited
                     by Europeans, are little known, notwithstanding their short distance from
                     us.</p>

                  <p n="996">We passed the Sunday in visiting several churches, and accompanied
                        <persName>captain Cook</persName>, in the afternoon, to the different
                     convents. Each of them has a church annexed to it, where we commonly saw two
                     pulpits, opposite to each other. It is usual here, at certain stated times, to
                     allow the devil to defend himself in one of these pulpits, whilst he is
                     arraigned in the other; but at the same time it may be superfluous to mention,
                     that Satan is always sure to be defeated, though his opponent were the most
                     ignorant monk that ever was fattened in a convent. Most of the altars are made
                     of cedar wood, and perfume the whole church very agreeably. In the evening we
                     saw a great procession, at which all the clergy in town assisted, and where
                     most of the principal inhabitants likewise took part, by walking in black gowns
                     before the Host. The commercial intercourse with the North-Americans seems to
                     have abated the spirit of persecution, of which the church of
                        <placeName>Rome</placeName> is sometimes accused in other countries. When
                     the host passes, no person is insulted, who does not choose to perform an act
                     of adoration; and strangers in particular are treated with a degree of civility
                     on this subject, which they do not meet with in the polite but slavish
                     metropolis of <placeName>France</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="997">We took a walk the next morning upon the hills to the northward of the
                     town, which furnished some of the most beautiful prospects. All the roads were
                     lined with tall shady trees, and on both sides were corn-fields, gardens, and
                     orchards. We were able to overlook the whole plain, in which the village of
                        <placeName>Nossa Senhora de la Luz</placeName> is situated, and beyond it
                     viewed a ridge of hills, which lead to the highest part of the island. There is
                     a deep circular valley, as I was informed by the inhabitants, on the summit of
                     one of the hills, about nine miles from the town. This cavity is about two
                     leagues in circumference, and its sides slope uniformly down, covered with a
                     rich herbage, where many sheep are grazing in flocks, which, though belonging
                     to private persons, are almost entirely wild. Rabbits and quails likewise are
                     plentiful on its sides, and at the bottom there is a lake of fresh water, well
                     stocked with wild-ducks. The water is said to be about four or five feet deep
                     all over it. This excavation, called <placeName>La Caldeira</placeName>, or
                        <placeName>the Kettle</placeName>, from its figure, seems to be the crater
                     of a former volcano; which becomes so much the more probable, as we know that
                     some other volcanos have existed in the <placeName>Açores</placeName>. That
                     remarkable mountain, which rose to the surface of the sea, forming a new
                     island, in the year 1638, close to the <placeName>islands of St.
                        Michael</placeName>, was doubtless produced by the action of a very powerful
                     volcano; and though it sunk again within a short space of time after its
                     formation, yet its momentary appearance sufficiently overthrows the assertion,
                     that only the highest peaks of the world can have internal fires<ref target="#edn313">
                        <note xml:id="edn313" anchored="true"> See an account of this remarkable
                           volcano in the <hi rend="italics">Memoires de l'Acad. de Paris</hi>,
                           de 1721, p. 26. Ibid, 1722, p. 12. <hi rend="italics">Phil.
                           Trans</hi>. abridged, vol. VI. p. 154. and <persName>Raspe</persName>
                           <hi rend="italics"> Specimen Hist. Nat. Globi Terraquei</hi>. Amst.
                           1763. p. 115. The last mentioned author3 has collected every thing
                           relating to the history of volcanic islands, known at the time when he
                           wrote; and having treated the subject as a man of science and genius, his
                           book is very fit to be perused by the tribe of shallow pretenders to
                           knowledge, who dress in borrowed plumes. </note>
                     </ref>. The island which appeared between <placeName>Terceira</placeName> and
                        <placeName>St. Michael</placeName>, in November 1720, was exactly of the
                     same nature, and confirms the above circumstances. The lofty summit of
                        <placeName>Pico</placeName> likewise constantly emits a smoke, which we were
                     assured of by a Portuguese captain, named <persName>Xaviers</persName>, who had
                     taken the pains to climb to the top; and this smoke may be seen on fair days at
                     Fayal, very early in the morning. Earthquakes are likewise very common at all
                     the <placeName>Açores</placeName>, and several shocks were felt at Fayal three
                     weeks before our arrival. It appears therefore that almost all the islands of
                     the <placeName>Atlantic Ocean</placeName>, like those of the <placeName>South
                        Sea</placeName>, have vestiges of former volcanos, or still contain burning
                     mountains, at this moment.</p>

                  <p n="998">We returned to town, after visiting the country-house and gardens
                     belonging to one of the principal inhabitants, which were contrived with more
                     taste than could be expected in this island. We were extremely sensible of the
                     heat, which was very great at this season, though we came from the torrid zone.
                     In general, however, the climate of the <placeName>Açores</placeName> is said
                     to be very happy, salubrious, and temperate. The severities of winter are never
                     felt; the winds indeed are sometimes boisterous at that season, and the rains
                     more frequent, but frost and snow appear only on the higher parts of the peak.
                     The spring and autumn, as also the greatest part of summer, are reckoned
                     delightful; since a fine breeze of wind commonly cools the air sufficiently to
                     mitigate the heat of the sun.</p>

                  <p n="999">In the afternoon, <persName>M. Estries</persName>, the French consul,
                     went with me to the convent of St. Clare, where his whole family paid a visit
                     to his sisters, who had taken the veil. I was much surprised, that not even the
                     female relations were admitted within the parlour grates, as this degree of
                     rigid sequestration is uncommon. It is customary for the nuns to offer their
                     visitors some dainties to eat, but here they served up a whole repast, which
                     consisted of several rich and luscious dishes. That the mind can be at ease,
                     and disposed to spiritual meditation, when the body is exhausted with
                     abstinence and watching, seems to be improbable; but whether the opposite
                     extreme, the luxury of a well furnished table, is better suited to that
                     principal intent of monastic life, may be doubted with equal justice.</p>

                  <p n="1000">The next day, about noon, having taken leave of all our acquaintance,
                     we returned on board with the consul, and several Portuguese, who honoured us
                     with their company at dinner; we passed the afternoon very agreeably, their
                     conversation being easy and chearful, the reverse of that haughty taciturnity
                     which is the general character of the Portuguese nobility at
                        <placeName>Madeira</placeName>. They were put on shore in the evening, and
                     at four the next morning we weighed, and set sail with a fair wind.</p>

                  <p n="1001">
                     <date>[Wednesd. 19.]</date> We passed by the islands of <placeName>St.
                        George</placeName> and <placeName>Graciosa</placeName>, and came in sight of
                        <placeName>Terceira</placeName> at noon. About <time>three o'clock in the
                        afternoon</time> we sailed along its north side, which exhibited the richest
                     corn-fields, and various villages surrounded by trees. We took leave of it in
                     the evening, and then directed our course to the channel. On the 29th, at
                        <time>four o'clock</time>, we saw the <placeName>Start Point</placeName> and
                        <placeName>Eddistone light-house</placeName> near it, the same parts of the
                     English shores which we had last seen at the beginning of the voyage.
                        <date>[Sunday 30.]</date>The next morning we passed through the Needles, and
                     swiftly sailing between the <placeName>Isle of Wight</placeName> and the
                     fertile shores of Hampshire, came to an anchor a little before noon at
                        <placeName>Spithead</placeName>.</p>

                  <p n="1002">Thus, after escaping innumerable dangers, and suffering a long series
                     of hardships, we happily completed a voyage, which had lasted three years and
                     sixteen days; in the course of which, it is computed we run over a greater
                     space of sea than any ship ever did before us; since, taking all our tracks
                     together, they form more than thrice the circumference of the globe. We were
                     likewise fortunate enough to lose only four men; three of whom died by
                     accident, and one by a disease, which would perhaps have brought him to the
                     grave much sooner had he continued in <placeName>England<ref target="#edn314">
                           <note xml:id="edn314" anchored="true"> From the bills of mortality in
                                 <placeName>Europe</placeName>, it is computed that three men in a
                              hundred annually die; according to which, we should have lost at least
                              ten men. Therefore, notwithstanding the best precautions may be taken
                              for the future, yet, from the chance or probability of events, another
                              ship may not preserve her men in the same proportion as ours; and it
                              would be extremely rash to suppose that this exception could always be
                              produced, merely by the prophylactics and antiscorbutics we had on
                              board. </note>
                        </ref>
                     </placeName>. The principal view of our expedition, the search after a southern
                     continent within the bounds of the temperate zone, was fulfilled; we had even
                     searched the frozen seas of the opposite hemisphere, within the antarctic
                     circle, without meeting with that vast tract of land which had formerly been
                     supposed to exist. At the same time, we had made another discovery important to
                     science, that nature forms great masses of ice in the midst of the wide ocean,
                     which are destitute of any saline particles, but have all the useful and
                     salubrious qualities of the pure element. At other seasons we explored the
                        <placeName>Pacific Ocean</placeName> between the tropics, and in the
                     temperate zone; and there furnished geographers with new islands, naturalists
                     with new plants and birds, and, above all, the friends of mankind with various
                     modifications of human nature. In one extreme we saw, and not without
                     compassion, the dull, hungry, deformed savages of <placeName>Tierra del
                        Fuego</placeName>, incapable of guarding against the severities of their
                     wretched climate, and having their mental faculties reduced to that miserable
                     situation which places them next to brutes. In the other, the happier tribes of
                     the <placeName>Society Islands</placeName>, beautifully formed, placed in a
                     delightful climate, which supplies all their wants; sensible of the advantages
                     of a well-ordered society, affectionate towards each other, and accustomed to
                     gratify their senses, even till they lead to excesses. From the contemplation
                     of these different characters, the advantages, the blessings which civilization
                     and revealed religion have diffused over our part of the globe, will become
                     more and more obvious to the impartial enquirer. He will acknowledge, with a
                     thankful heart, that incomprehensible goodness which has given him a
                     distinguished superiority over so many of his fellow-creatures, who follow the
                     impulse of their senses, without knowing the nature or name of virtue; without
                     being able to form that great idea of general order, which could alone convey
                     to them a just conception of the Creator. Upon the whole, nothing appears more
                     evident, than that the additions to the stock of human knowledge which have
                     been made during this voyage, however considerable they may be when put in
                     competition with what was known before, are of small moment when compared with
                     the immense variety of unknown objects which, even in our present confined
                     situation, are still within our reach, and which, for ages to come, will
                     probably open new and extensive fields, where the human soul will have room to
                     expatiate, and display its faculties with superior lustre.</p>

                  <p n="1003">
                     <q>
                        <l> __ ___ Vedi insieme l'uno e l'altro polo,</l>
                        <l> Le stelle vaghe e lor viaggio torto;</l>
                        <l> E vedi, 'l veder nostro quanto e corto!</l>
                     </q>
                     <persName>Petrarca</persName>.4</p>



                  <p n="1004">FINIS.</p>



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